Shetland:
Descriptive and Historical By Robert Cowie (1874)
Shetland Islands during prehistory
PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION
It is with much
diffidence, and a deep sense of its many imperfections, that I venture
to offer tnis little work to the public. As the reader will observe, it
consists of two distinct parts, written at widely different times, and
for very different purposes. Part L was prepared, in Edinburgh, in the
winter of 1865-66, and submitted to the Medical Faculty of that
University, on my Graduation in the latter year, as M.D. This
circumstance will, I trust, plead my apology for the apparent egotism,
which I fear characterises some of the remarks, for the chief merit of a
Thesis is held to consist in the original and personal observations it
contains.
Two or three months
before the Thesis was even in, the substance of Chapter VIII. (“On
Small-pox,” &c.) was sent to the late Sir James Y. Simpson, Baronet, the
illustrious Professor of Midwifery, who was pleased to manifest a great
interest in the subject, and afterwards, at the ceremony of defending
the Thesis, to speak in commendatory terms of that presented by me.
In 1867, I was induced to
send the substance of Chapter VI., entitled “Health and Longevity,” to
the International Medical Congress, which met at Paris, chiefly because
that learned assemblage specially desired papers on the subject it
treats from different parts of Europe. This paper was favourably
received at the time, but I heard nothing more of it till in July 1870,
when I received a letter from M. Adolph Berg, a Physician of Zealand,
Denmark, stating that he had read an abstract of it in U Union Medicate
(a Paris Medical Journal) for 1867, and requesting to be informed
whether it had been published in English. This brought up the question
of the publication of the Thesis.
On shewing it to the
Publisher, whom I had occasion to see at the time, that gentleman was of
opinion the essay , should be published, but suggested it would be more
interesting to the general public were I to append some Topographical
Notes. This I agreed to, and hence the origin of Part II., which has
gradually extended to a length on which I certainly did not calculate
when I commenced it. It has been written during the last winter, amid
many interruptions, and under all the disadvantages inseparable from
residence in Shetland. One of these was distance from the printer, from
which cause several typographical errors have, unfortunately, crept into
the text With the exception of one or two verbal alterations, the Thesis
appears exactly as it was given in. Only one part has been re-written,
viz., the latter portion of the Chapter on “Religious and Ecclesiastical
History” and that because, in its original form, it appeared to be
defective.
However much I may have
failed, it has been my earnest endeavour to do impartial justice to all
parties and all interests. If these pages are in the smallest degree the
means of exciting a kindly interest in my native Islands, my labours in
preparing them will be abundantly rewarded.
R. O.
Lerwick, May 1871.
Broch of Mousa is the
finest preserved example of an Iron Age broch or round tower. It is in
the small island of Mousa in Shetland, Scotland. It is the tallest broch
still standing and amongst the best-preserved prehistoric buildings in
Europe.
Mousa
Trip from Sandwick, on the Mainland of Shetland, Scotland, to the island
of Mousa, where our path then crosses from the West Ham to East Ham,
following the E coastline south to where Mousa Lighthouse is visible,
crossing to the W side by West Pool, where seals play, to Mousa Broch
and back N to West Ham.
No pains have been spared
to make the second edition in every way a great improvement on the first
Some medical details have been eliminated, the historical and
topographical portions expanded, and six of the best illustrations of Mr
J. T. Reid’s “Art Rambles* have been purchased and added to those
formerly given in the work. The map has also been revised and corrected.
MEMOIR
Although this is not the
place for a lengthened account of the author of “Shetland and its
Inhabitants,” this Edition should not go forth to the public without a
small tribute of respect to the memory of one so esteemed, and so
prematurely cut off at the outset of a promising career.
Dr Robert Cowie was born
at Lerwick in February 1842, and spent the early years of his life
there. His father, Dr John Cowie, practised in Lerwick, and was held in
high esteem by the whole community among whom he laboured. Dr Isaac
Cowie, uncle of the subject of this short Memoir, was also well known as
a medical practitioner in Lerwick, and beloved for his many amiable
qualities and kindness of heart.
Dr Cowie received his
education partly at Aberdeen, where he took the degree of M.A., and
partly at the University of Edinburgh, where he was a favourite student
of the late Sir James Y. Simpson. After completing his studies he
returned to Lerwick as assistant to his father, whom he shortly after
succeeded, the latter having died in the prime of life. Taking up fresh
from College life, at the early age of twenty-four years, his father’s
arduous practice, he devoted himself assiduously to it for the remainder
of his short life. Besides his private practice, he held the
appointments of Admiralty Surgeon and Agent, Medical Officer to the
Northern Lighthouses, the Prison Board, and to the Parochial Boards of
Trngwall and Bressay. He was also vaccinator for almost the whole
Islands. Enthusiastically attached to his native place, everything
relating to its welfare had an intense interest in his eyes, and there
is probably no man living who possesses a more intimate acquaintance
with the history and topography of the Islands, and the habits, manners,
and customs of the people. To him it was a labour of love to investigate
every fact, and exhaust every source of information connected with them.
These are preserved in a useful and lasting form in the present work,
the fcareful revisal of which he finished only a few days before his
death. He contributed several valuable papers to Medical Journals, and
supplied some interesting additions to antiquarian literature.
Dr Cowie married, in
1869, the youngest daughter of Bailie Smith, Aberdeen, and at his death
left a widow and two children to mourn his irreparable loss. Twin
daughters were bom a month after his decease, the eldest of whom died on
Sunday, the 12th July, aged six weeks.
With the exception of
occasional attacks of dyspepsia, Dr Cowie was in his usual health until
the night of April 29th, when he was suddenly seized with a very severe
attack of peritonitis, which carried him off after twenty-six hours’
illness. His death cast a gloom over the whole town, and indeed over the
whole Islands his loss is lamented. The poor found in him a follower of
the Great Physician, ministering to the wants both of body and soul, and
mourn the loss of one of their truest friends.
July 1874.
Iron age brochs Of
Scotland
Iron age Brochs, stone Towers built during the Iron Age period in
Scotland, an audio visual presentation showing aerial views of the broch
remains in Scotland, including the best preserved "The Broch of Mousa".
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART I.
Chapter I. -
Introduction and General Account.
Situation-Natural History—Scenery—List
of Parishes and Islands.
Chapter II. -
History of Shetland
Is it the Ultima Thule of the Ancients?—Picts —
Norsemen—Harold Harfager—Scandinavian Earls—Ronald I.—Sigurd I. —Sigurd
II.—St Magnus —Ronald II.—Kirkwall Cathedral—Visits of Earls to
Shetland—Swein of Gairsey—Shetland annexed to Crown of Norway—The St
Clairs—Impignoration of Orkney and Shetland to Scotland—Lord Robert
Stewart—Bothwell— Earl Patrick Stewart—His Character—His
Castles—Misrule, &c.— Complaints—Imprisonment—Execution, &c.— Earl of
Morton—Sir Lawrence Dundas, and Earls of Zetland—County deprived of
Franchise till 1832.
Chapter III. -
History continued
Social State of Shetland in former Times—The Old Udallers—Early Oppression, &c.—Udallers sell their Lands—Large Estates
formed—Change from Udal to Feudal System—George Buchanan’s Description —Udallers
after the Time of the Stewarts—Description of Robert Monteith—Language.
Chapter IV. - History.continued
The Ancient Jurisdiction of Zetland—The Great Foude—District
Foudes—Ranselmen, their Duties—Lawrightman — Stewartry erected —
Steward-De-pute—Bailies—“Book of the Law” destroyed—“Country Acts”—The
Ting.
Chapter V. -
Religious and Ecclesiastical History
Culdees—Norse
Paganism—Introduction of Christianity —
Popery—Reformation—Episcopacy—Presbyterianism—State of Religion in the
Eighteenth Century—Mr Haldane—Independents —Wesleyans—Seceders—Baptists
—Free Church—Established Church—Re-introduction of Roman Catholicism—of
Episcopacy—Revival of 1862-63—General Remarks.
Chapter VI. -
Ethnology
Early Inhabitants—Piets—Scandinavian Race —Authorities
cited—Influence of Scotch and Continental Peoples on Race—Difference of
Race in different Islands— Modification of Races by climate, habits, &c.
Chapter VII. -
Meteorology and Climate
Gulf Stream—Its beneficial
influence—Meteorological tables—Mean temperatures, &c.—Arrangement of
seasons—Range of temperature—Rainfall — Atmospheric moisture — Iodine,
&c., in atmosphere — Winds — Botany corroborating results of Meteorology
— Length of day, &c.—Aurora Borealis—Influence of Drainage on Climate.
Chapter VIII. -
Health and Longevity
Proportion of Births and Deaths to
Population—Small Infantile Mortality — Remarkable Longevity—Vigour in
Old Age.
Chapter X. -
Small-Pox
Its Fearful Ravages during the Eighteenth Century— John
Williamson’s Mode of Inoculation — Its Wonderful Success—Small-Pox in
Present Century—Vaccination.
Chapter XI. -
Rheumatism, etc
Its Increase during the last Thirty or Forty Years,
owing to change of diet and clothing—Dyspepsia, its increase, owing to
excessive use of tea—Its Treatment—Hypochondriasis.
Chapter XII. -
Skin Diseases
Favus; Leprosy—Leper Houses—Causes of the Disease.
Chapter XIV. -
Dwellings, Food, and Pursuits of the People.
The Shetlander’s House and
Croft—Fishing at the Haaf— at Greenland—at Faroe—Sailors in Southern
Trade—Employments of the Women — Social Condition of People — Imaginary
Family Group on a Winter Evening—Schools—Disparity in Age of Sexes at
Marriage—Registrar-General’s Return as to Morality—Country
Weddings—Conclusion of Thesis.
PART II.
TOPOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OP SHETLAND.
Chapter I. -
Fair Isle
Naval Action—Shipwreck of an Admiral of Spanish Armada—His
return to Spain, &c.—Fishings, &c.—Fair Isle skiffs—Beacons in ancient
times—Earls Paul and Ronald—Parochial Statistics.
Chapter II. - Sumburgh Roost
Fitful Head—Quendale—Iron Mines— Quendale Bay— Fishing
Stations— Fisheries— Sumburgh Lighthouse—Jarlshoff—The Hall—Lord Robert
Stewart’s House—Battle on Sumburgh Links—Gruitness—Yoe—Accommodation.
Chapter III. - Dunrossness to Lerwick
Leven wick—The MouH-Chan-nerwick—Sandwick—Pictish
Burgh or Castle of Mousa— Legend regarding Dame Margareta and Earl
Erlend—Sand Lodge—Copper Mine—Coningsburgh—Its people —Scenery —Aith’s
Voe — Helliness — Fladabister—Quarff—Brendis-ter—Gulberwick—Shipwreck of
Earls Ronald and Harold, &c.— Bressay Lighthouse—The Knab — Paul Jones
repulsed.
Chapter IV. - Lerwick
The Harbour—The Town—Its Situation—Arrangement of the Streets,
&c.—Shops, &c. —Public Buildings —Docks—New Town—Villas, &c.—Loch of
Clickhemin— Sound.
Chapter V. - Lerwick continued
Some of its Industries and Social Customs — Trade —
Faroe Fishing—Markets for Fish, &c.—Fish Tithes to Minister of North Leith—Absence of Manufactures, and Scarcity of Employment — Society —
Means of Communication with other places — Lerwick at different seasons
— Winter—Royal Naval Reserve— Christmas Morning
Amusements—Spring—Greenland Ships —Whale and Seal Fishery—Whalers “
frozen up ” in Arctic Regions all Winter, &c.
Chapter VI. - Lerwick continued
Summer Season—The Dutch Fishery on the Shetland
Coast—Its Ancient Magnitude and Importance—The “Hollander’s Knowe”—The
Dutchmen on Shore, and some of their Amusements—Their “Busses”—
Boat-Sailing off Lerwick—Fishing of Herring on Lines— Mackerel Fishing
in Autumn—History of Lerwick—Progress of its Population—Fort
Charlotte—Rifle Corps—Anderson Institute — Widows* Asylum — Parish
School — Episcopal School—Municipal Affairs—Water-Works—Over-crowding
—Small Lodging-Houses—Fever Hospital—Courts, Civil and
Ecclesiastical—Markets—Want of Public Places of
Amusement—Scenery—Cemetery.
Chapter VII. -
Means of Communication with other Places
Little Intercourse with
Mainland of Scotland for a long period— Illustrations of this—Sloops
running to Leith—Wreck of the Doris — Smuggling Trade with Holland —
Schooners to Leith — Steamers—Introduction of Penny Postage— Great
Increase of Letters, &c., since—Trade between West Side of Shetland and
Leith—Between North Isles and Lerwick—Steamer—Story — Iceland Mail
Steamer—Shetland Telegraph.
Chapter VIII. -
Roads
None till End of Last Century—Those constructed by Highland
Destitution Board—"Zetland Roads Act, 1864’’—-Good Results of
Roads—Illustrative Stories.
Chapter IX. -
Agriculture
Its Primitive Character—Grain derived at one time from
Orkney—An Orkney Farmer’s Voyage to Shetland—Oats and Bere—Cabbage—Potatoes—Turnips—
Rye-Grass—White Oats—Products of the Garden—Soil—The Shetlander’s
Croft—Manure—Farm Implements—The Shetland Mill—Seedtime—Causes of
Destitution—Cattle— Poultry—Pigs—Dogs.
Chapter X. -
The Scatholds (or Commons) and their Inhabitants
Products of the
Commons-Game, &c.—The Shetland Pony —The Shetland Sheep—Their
Wool—Native Dyes—Skins —Mutton—Method of Removing Wool—Their Food in
Seasons of Scarcity—Diseases—Birds of Prey—Attention paid to the Rearing
of Sheep in Ancient Times—Wadmel— Shetland “Tweeds”—Proposed
Introduction of Grouse— Peat-Moss—Great Depth in many Places—Its
Formation—The Cutting, Curing, and Transport of Peats—Might not
Peat-Moss be further utilised?—Improvements in Shetland Farming, and its
assimilation to that of the Mainland of Scotland—Fishing of greater
importance there than Farming—Division of Commons—Shetland rather a
Grazing than an Agricultural Country—Years of Destitution by Destruction
of Crops—Trees.
Chapter XI. -
Shetland Hosiery
That exported restricted to Coarse Stockings, &c., for
a long period—Fine Shawl-knitting of Recent Introduction—Its Origin and
Rise—Veils, &c.—Present to the Princess of Wales.
Chapter XII. - Bressay and Noss
East Coast of Bressay—Cave—Bard— “Giant’s Leg”—Holm
and Noup of Noss—The Cradle—Dr Copland—Farm of Noss—Dangers of Noss
Sound—Bressay again—Gardie—Maryfield—Parochial Statistics—Slate
Quarries.
Chapter XIII. - Scalloway and Tingwall
The Journey—Magnificent view from Hill above Scalloway—The Castle—Earl Patrick Stewart—Gallow Hill—Garden of
Westshore— Gibbleston Lodge — Blacksness — Harbour — Tingwall — The
Ting— Church, Jdanse, &c.—Veens garth and Laxfirth Farms— Dale.
Chapter XIV. -
From Lerwick northwards to Nesting and Whalsey
Remarks on Shetland
Scenery in Autumn—North Entrance to Lerwick Harbour—Rova Head—“Luggie’s
Knowe ”—Baa Green—Unicom Rock—Bothwell’s Shipwreck—Girlsta —Catfirth—Vassa—Isles
of Gletness—Mull of Eswick— Maiden Stack—Hou Stack—Bay of Nesting—Brough,
&c.— Dangerous Reefs—Neap—Hog Sound—Tragedy at Neap— Nesting Statistics—Wnalsey—Symbister—Manor
House— Whalsey Sound—Its Islands—Manufacture of Kelp— Parpchial
Statistics, &c.
Chapter XV. -
The Skerries
Passage thither—Grief Skerry—East Linga
—Seals—Cormorant—The Otter—Skerry Isles—Their Harbour—The Fishery—“The
Skerry Fight”—Shipwreck of the Carmelan, and of a Russian Frigate—The
Lighthouse —Lightkeeper’s Houses, &c.—Effects of the Sea—School—
Shipwreck of the b.s. Pacific on East Linga, near Whalsey, in February
1871.
Chapter XVI. -
The North Isles
Yell.—Its Extent—Character of the Soil —Harbours—Proposed
Canal—Parochial Statistics—Manor Houses—Hascussey—Fishings,
&c.—Peat-Moss.
Chapter XVII. - Fetlar
Its name—Fertility of the Soil—Geological Formation—Parochial
Statistics—Antiquities—Brough Lodge— Fetlar Ponies—Shipwrecks—Supposed
Submarine Volcano.
Chapter XVIII. - Unst
Hills — Lochs—Geological Formation — Harbours— History and
Antiquities.
Chapter XIX. - Unst continued
Itinerary — Belmont — Uyea Sound — Muness Castle—Balta—Balta
Sound—Buness—M. Biot— Some distinguished natives of Unst—Chromate
Quarries— “Fenian Invasion*—Parochial Statistics—North Coast—
Lighthouse.
Chapter XX. - Lunnasting
Doura Voe—West Sound of Whalsey—Vidlin Voe—Lunna—Parochial
Statistics—Industries, &c.
Chapter XXI. -
Yell Sound to Sulem Voe
Lunna Ness—Yell-Sound—Its Islands— Its Tideways—
Coast of North Delting— Sulem Voe—Mavisgrind—The Road there.
Chapter XXII. - Sulem Voe to Feideland
Bardister—Ollaberry—North Roe—Fishing-station
at Feideland.
Chapter XXIV. -
Sand Voe to Roeness Voe
Pirate's Visit, &c.—North-West Coast of Northmavine—Uyea—Roeness Voe—Action fonght there—Roeness Hill—Veiwfrom
its Summit.
Chapter XXV. - Roeness Voe to Hamna Voe
Wonderful Effects of the Sea —Grind of the Navir—Villians of Ure—Holes of Scraada—The Cannon.
Chapter XXX. - Olnafirth to Aith
Travelling along the land-locked Voes of Shetland.
Chapter XXXI. - Aithsting
Vemintry—The Old Laird of Fogrigarth.
Chapter XXXII. - Sandness
Melby House—Holm of Collaster.
Chapter XXXIII. -
Papa Stour
The Ve Skerries. — Superstitions regarding Seals, &c.
Chapter XXXIV. - Foula
West Coast of Walls—Hivda-Grind Bocks—Five Hills of Foula—Lum of
Liorafield—Skua Gull— Precipices— Myriads of Sea-fowl— Supposed
Carbuncle.
Chapter XXXV. -
Foula continued
The Cragsman — Highest Hill — The People—Churches and
School—Traces of Norse Language— Scenery,—&c.
Chapter XXXVI. -
Parish of Walls
Island of Vaila—Vaila Sound—Churches, &c.—Peculiar Names
of Places—Ancient Burghs and Tumuli, &c.—Gruting Voe.
Chapter XXXVII. - Culswick
Skeld—Reawick—Selie Voe—Kirkholm—Sand—The Mitchells of
Westshore.
Chapter XXXVIII. -
A Whale-Hunt
Other Whales less frequently met with— Sharks.
Chapter XXXIX. - Bixter Voe
Some Parochial Statistics of Sandsting—Weisdale Voe—Islands
in it—Sound—“Church of Our Lady'—Free Church—Estate of Kergord.
Chapter XL. -
Whiteness
The Loch of Strom—Sinclairs of Strom, &c.— Parochial
Statistics, &c.
Chapter XLI. -
From Whiteness southwards
Isles in Bay of Scalloway— Trondra—Burra
Isles—Disaster to Dutch fleet—House— Parochial Statistics—Ha vera—Ancient
Affray between men of Burra and Coningsburgh—Bigton—St Ninian’s Isle —
Spiggie—Parochial Statistics of Dunrossness, &c—Conclusion.
I found another 2
volume publication "A View of the Ancient and Present State of the
Zetland Islands" by Arthur Edmondston M.D. (1809) which you can download
here...
The Diary of the Reverend John Mill
Minister of the Parishes of Dunrossness, Sandwick and Cumminsburgh in
Shetland 1740-1803 with selections from Local Records and original
documents relating to the District. Edited with Introduction and Notes by
Gilbert Goudie, FSA Scot
A Description of the
Shetland Islands
Comprising an account of their Geology, Scenery, Antiquities and
Superstitions by Samuel Hibbert, M.D., F.R.S.E., &c. (1822) (pdf)
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