YELL SOUND TO SULEM VOE
Lnnna Ness—Yell Sound—Its
Islands—Its Tideways—Coast of North Delting— Sulem Voe—Mavisgrind—The
Road there.
BIDDING farewell to
Lunnasting, we leave the Voe of Vidlin, and shape our course in a
north-easterly direction along the shores of Lunna Ness. This large
peninsular promontory stretches out into the sea for a distance of about
four miles. It contains few inhabitants, and is almost entirely devoted
to pasture. At its point is a low green islet, termed Lunna Holm. Having
either sailed round the Holm, or through the narrow sound separating it
from the Ness, we take a north-westerly direction, and find we have
entered Yell Sound. This great stretch of water lies between the island
of Yell and the northern portions of the Mainland. It is studded over
with islands, more or less picturesque, all of which, from the rich
succulent grass they yield, afford excellent pasturage. Cattle and sheep
fed in such places have always been more esteemed in Shetland than those
from the pasture of the larger islands. Of these isles Fish Holm, Sam-phray,
Bigga, Brother Isle, and Lamma, all were peopled about fifty years ago;
but they were from time to time, “laid down to grazing,” until Little
Roe was the only one in the group that could boast of human inhabitants.
Recently, however, it has shared the same fate. Many voes, some of them
running far into the land, open into Yell Sound. This arrangement is
particularly observable in North Delting. The Sound is almost constantly
agitated by fiercely-conflicting tides,, frequently heaving up
tremendous billows, and rendering its passage by boats most dangerous,
if not impossible. The number of isles and rocks by which their course
is obstructed, together with the circumstance that the tide of one end
of the strait is an hour later than that at the other, seems to account
for these phenomena. These tideways form a favourite resort for all
kinds of fish, especially the sillock, which is often caught in myriads
in Yell Sound and its tributary voes.
In sailing up these
troubled waters, let us keep close to the Mainland, since we have
already attempted to take a bird’s eye view of Yell. Proceeding
northwards, and looking into the common entrance to the fine voes of
Swining, Colafirth, Deal, and Firth, we soon reach Mossbank, with its
large mercantile establishment, and neat U.P. Church and manse. This
place is also of importance as the chief ferry between the Mainland and
Yell. Here also the telegraph cable, which connects the North Isles with
the Mainland, is laid. All the way up the Sound, we have, on the right,
a fine view of its bonny isles.
Having doubled the Ness
of Calback, four or five miles beyond Mossbank, we reach the mouth of
Sulem Voe. It is by far the largest voe in the country, running as it
does into the land for about ten miles, and separating Delting from
Northmavine. To the eye of the stranger, it looks more like the mouth of
a great river than a land-locked arm i>f the sea. Let us sail up through
it, and look if anything interesting can be seen on the shores of Sulem
Yoe and its tributary branches of Garth and Voxter. The land along its
shores slopes gradually towards the sea. It is generally pretty green
with verdure, and in several places is cultivated. The places of most
note on the left, or Delting bank, are the town and farm of Garth, the
parish kirk of Scatsta, and the new and handsome manse at Voxter. On the
right, or Northmavine bank, Sulem, with its good fields, numerous
cottages, and little Congregational chapel, is the only place of
importance. The head of Sulem Voe is only a few hundred yards from that
of Busta, on the west side of the island—a strip of land, not much above
the level of the sea, separating them. It has frequently been proposed
to connect them by a canal, which would tend greatly to further commerce
and to develop the resources of the country. It would not be very
expensive, as few rocks are met with along the line proposed.
But one of the upper and
more westerly reaches of this voe brings the waters of the east and
those of the west of Shetland (that is, those of the North Sea and the
Atlantic Ocean), into much greater proximity. At Mavisgrind, the
entrance to the great peninsula of Northmavine, a narrow isthmus of
rock, not more than thirty or forty yards wide, separates the two seas.
The construction of the county road, immediately before it reaches this
point, is a great triumph of engineering skill. For several hundred
yards it winds round the base of an almost perpendicular cliff, being
laid on a bulwark of large stones built into the sea. It is very
pleasant to walk along this level path, with the still waters of the voe
below, and the towering cliffs above —their clefts decorated here and
there by the dog-rose and other wild plants and shrubs. |