FOULA
West Coast of Walls—Hivda-Grind
Bocks—Five Hills of Foula— Lum of Liorafield—Skua
Gull—Precipices—Myriads of Sea-fowl—Supposed Carbuncle.
THE coast from Sandness
southwards is singularly wild and rugged, consisting, as it does, of a
series of precipices, much tom up by the elements, and indented here and
there by deep gios. Over-topping them all (for none of the cliffs is
over 600 feet in height), the great hill of Sandness heaves its head
aloft. The only landing-place along this inhospitable line of sea-board
is at a small inlet, called Dale, from which a haaf-fishing is carried
on. This indentation in the coast is prolonged for a great distance
inland in the form of a deep glen, along whose steep sides several
well-tilled crofts are arranged. This sequestered toun of Dale is the
only place of human habitation on the great stretch of moorland which
separates Sandness from Walls.
The point of Wattsness
marks the termination of this line of coast, on the south. As it is the
nearest point on the mainland to the island of Foula, it may be well to
proceed thence to visit that romantic and solitary rock in the ocean.
The distance is eighteen miles, and the course south-west. Unless it be
the traveller’s good fortune to obtain a steamer—and they are by no
means numerous in these latitudes—the best conveyance to Foula is a good
six-oared fishing-boat. A sailing vessel is not so agreeable, for the
passage is beset with tideways; and calms and fogs are by no means
uncommon in the summer time—and no one who could help it would visit
Foula at any other season. About three miles from this island, in an
easterly direction, are the Hivda-grind rocks, a dangerous reef of
considerable extent. With low tides, when they are about four feet under
water, the tang which grows on them is distinctly visible above the
surface. In one or two deep depressions on the surface of one of the
largest rocks of Hivda-grind are several large loose boulders, which
seem to have lain there for ages. Whenever the sea is much agitated—and
it is never still—the boulders are set in motion, and by their friction
wear away the substance of the rocks and deepen the pools in which they
lie. These boulders suggest two curious questions, the one for the
geologist, the other for the hydrographer—viz., How came they there 1
and, Why are they not washed out of these basins, over the reef, and
allowed to sink in the deep water alongside?
As might be expected, the
Hivda-grind rocks are very dangerous to commerce, and several vessels
are known to have perished on them; how many others have shared the same
fate will only be known when the sea gives up its dead. The lofty island
of Foula, which may be seen, presenting the appearance of a dense blue
cloud, from every bill-top of any height in Shetland, now displays
itself more distinctly. It is about three miles long, and nearly two
broad. Its hills, divided into five conical peaks, occupy the western
portion of the island; while, along the eastern half, a plain, almost
level, runs from end to end. Its geological structure is almost
exclusively of sandstone. The best landing is at a little inlet, called
Ham, exactly in the middle of the island. All the inhabitants are, of
course, confined to the level plain.
The Foula hills are as
steep as they are high; and from whatever point it is commenced, their
ascent is a very arduous undertaking. Exactly opposite the
THE HORN OF PAPA.
little harbour of Ham is
the hill of Hamnafield, which terminates, on the west, in a sheer
precipice 1200 feet high. It is on the top of this peak that tradition
places the “Lum of Liorafield,” a narrow chimney leading to the
subterranean regions. So great is its depth that several barrels of
lines are said to have been let down through the “Lum,” without reaching
the bottom. Recent explorers have, however, failed to discover this
remarkable opening.
One of these hill-tops is
the breeding-place of the bunxie or skua gull. This beautiful bird, the
largest and fiercest of the gull tribe, builds no nest, but lays its
eggs and brings forth its young amongst the grass or heather, so that a
visitor can easily handle the young bunxies. If he does so, it will not
be with impunity, f6r the parent birds hover round, and, whenever
opportunity offers, pounce down upon the intruder with a sudden and
violent swoop. So near do they come, that, if his head is bare, tjie
skull of the visitor is in danger of being seriously injured by the
strong bill of the skua. If he is armed with a good stick, and is able
to use it adroitly, he can readily return the compliment by breaking the
wing of his feathered assailant. The bunxie is brown in colour, and has
a strong, sharp, well-hooked bill. Its body is two feet long, and the
wings, when extended, measure about six feet from tip to tip. This bird
is the terror of all the feathered race, and even the eagle has a
salutary dread of it. Save in the north of Unst, the skua is found
nowhere else in Great Britain. The proprietor of Foula very properly
gives his tenants strict orders for the protection of this truly rara
avis.
The whole west coast of
the island is one great line of gigantic precipices, from 1100 to 1200
feet in height. All we have hitherto examined, even those of Noss, are
as nothing compared with them. Everywhere along these giddy heights a
magnificent view is obtained of the various projecting points, which
diversify the cliffs; of the surging waters, which wash their feet; and
of the dense clouds of sea-fowl which darken the air and spread
themselves over the sea. One of these projecting points, used to be the
breeding-place of the white-tailed eagle, and its eggs were distinctly
visible through the great distance separating them from the spectator’s
stand-point at the top of the cliff. From another point farther north
than this, some rays of bright light can be seen at night, radiating
from the dark surface of the precipices. These were long believed to
proceed from a large and valuable carbuncle, but this supposition has
never been confirmed. |