THE SKERRIES
Passage thither— Grief
Skerry—East Linga—Seals—Cormorant— The Otter—Skerry Isles—Their Harbour—The
Fishery— “The Skerry Fight”—Shipwreck of the Carmdan, and of a Russian
Frigate—The Lighthouse—Lightkeeper’s Houses, &c.— Effects of the
Sea—School—Shipwreck of the S. S. Pacific on East Linga, near Whalsey,
in February 1871.
IN order to reach the
Skerries, we shape our course north-eastward from the south end of
Whalsey. Like the course from Lerwick to Whalsey, that from there to the
Skerries is everywhere marked with detached rocks of various sizes,
which stand up amidst the sea to tell us modems that the skeleton-like
archipelago of Shetland was probably at some remote period one
continuous island of no mean extent. However interesting to the
geologist and dangerous to the navigator, some of these rocks are of
considerable practical utility. One of them, bearing the ominous name of
Grief Skerry, but really worthy to be called an island, besides
affording excellent pasturage for sheep, is the rendez*-vous for the
Whalsey boats during the haaf fishing. The isle is provided with a good
beach, along which numerous small huts or lodges are arranged. Here the
men land their fish, and enjoy occasionally a few hour’s repose in the
midst of their arduous labours. From Grief Skerry, the fish are
conveyed, in a small vessel, to Whalsey, to be cured. East Linga, a
little to the westward of Grief Skerry, serves a similar purpose, but on
a smaller scale.
Many of these small isles
and detached rocks, lying far away from the usual haunts of man, were,
in former times, the resorts of numerous seals. Within the last twenty
or thirty years, however, they have gradually declined in numbers, and
now are rarely to be met with. It is difficult to account for their
disappearance. The number of sportsmen hunting them is scarcely
sufficient to do so, nor even the epizootic, which destroyed so many,
and sent their bodies floating over the sea, some years ago. The seal
most numerous was the Phoca vitulinax or common seal. The Phoca barbata,
or great seal, was also occasionally to be met with, but more rarely.
Almost the only representative of animated nature to be found in their
old haunts are troops of cormorants, who seem to consider themselves the
garrison soldiers of all the small isles. They stretch out their necks
and utter an indignant cry, on the approach of human invaders; and, it
is only dire necessity which induces them to desert their strongholds,
and seek safety in the water.
The otter, which chooses
very similar habitations, is now more common than the seal A good many
have lately been caught, by means of traps, in the Skerries, which it is
now high time for us to reach, after all these digressions. This group
of small islands lies by itself in the North Sea, eastward from the rest
of Shetland. It is six miles northeastward from the nearest point of
Whalsey, and about twenty-four miles, in the same direction, from
Lerwick.
Of these oceanic isles,
three (Brourie, Housie, and Gruna) are inhabited. Between them is a
beautiful little harbour, thoroughly land-locked and affording good
anchorage. It has three entrances, of which the north and south only are
available for vessels, the east being so narrow and winding as only to
admit boats. The south entrance, guarded by bold rocks on either side,
is only about eighty yards wide. To the traveller who has been tossed up
and down by the surging waters of the Skerries (and they are seldom
still), it is truly charming to pass between these rocky pillars, and
suddenly find himself in this placid and picturesque haven in the middle
of the stormy ocean. The north entrance is broader, but it has a longer
channel leading less directly to the harbour, and it is therefore less
used than the opposite one.
The Skerries, which
contain one hundred and sixteen inhabitants, form an excellent
fishing-station, not only for their own population, but for many boats
from the mainland. . It is chiefly the men of Lunnasting who resort
hither in the summer time to prosecute the white-fishing, always
returning to their homes at the end of the week. During the fishing
season, therefore, these islands present a very animated and interesting
scene. Six-oared boats are constantly entering or leaving the pretty
little harbour. Generally the fishermen, on arriving from the deep sea,
deposit their precious cargoes with the curers, and quietly retire to
their huts for a brief season of repose. It has, however, not always
been so, for Dr Hibbert tells us that, “ Early in the last century, a
contention arose between two considerable families in Shetland,
regarding this right {i.e., the right to erect temporary fishing-huts
and booths on unenclosed grounds), which proved so serious that it is
still traditionally handed down under the name of the Skerry Fight. The
fishermen belonging to the Gifford family of Busta came armed, and
obtained possession of a booth that they had erected the preceding year.
The Sinclairs, also, headed by the valiant lady of the family, took the
field. A siege commenced; there was a discharge of fire-arms from each
party, with little or no effect, until Magnus Flaus, the champion of the
Sinclairs, having tried in vain to break open the door of the booth
which was occupied by the Giffords, mounted the roof and swore most
stoutly that he would be in the building, though the devil should
dispute him admission. On effecting an entrance, he was immediately shot
dead by the occupants within, upon which the Sinclairs took flight, and,
like dastards, abandoned their lady, who was by the opposite party made
prisoner.” A vein of limestone runs through the inhabited isles, and
hence the comparative richness of their soil. The crops are, however,
frequently blighted by sea-breezes.
It is, however, their
splendid lighthouse which chiefly renders the Skerries interesting to
the general public. Never was a site better chosen for such a beacon;
for the Skerries, and the many craggy isles intervening between them and
the east coast of Shetland, have been the scene of many a heartrending
shipwreck. It was on a rock near the southern entrance to their little
harbour that the Garmelan of Amsterdam was cast away in 1664. She was
bound to the East Indies, and was laden with three millions of guilders;
and many chests of coined gold. “ The wreck happened on a dark night,
when four men, placed among the shrouds, were endeavouring to discover
land. They were not able to descry the land till the vessel was close
upon it; and before they could warn the rest of the crew, the ship
struck. The mast broke close to the deck, falling at the same time on
one of the cliffs, by which means the four men were saved; but the ship
itself sank in deep water, and all the crew on board immediately
perished.” As formerly mentioned, “ a considerably quantity of spiritous
liquors was driven ashore; and, for twenty days afterwards, the
inhabitants of the Skerries were in a state of continued intoxication.
When the Earl of Morton heard of the wreck, he repaired to the spot, and
was actively employed in rescuing from the water several of the chests
of gold. These ought to have come into the King’s treasury; and when
Charles II. heard of the Earl’s private appropriation, he is said to
have been decided in the views which he had before entertained of
recalling the Crown estates of Orkney and Shetland that had fallen into
the hands of the Morton family, on the fictitious plea of a mortgage of
Charles I.” Another amongst the numerous shipwrecks this coast has
witnessed may be here mentioned. “ In the year 1780, a Russian frigate
was wrecked on the island of Whalsey. Mr Bruce Stewart, the proprietor
of the island, ordered immediately his tenants to fit out proper boats
to save what lives could be saved. Unfortunately, all their exertions,
which were made at the risk of their own lives, could save only five of
the Russian sailors. These five men were entertained by Mr Bruce at his
hospitable mansion for several months, and sent home to their native
country. From the report of these five men, the Empress Catherine of
Russia gave orders to her ambassador at the court of London, to write,
in her name, a letter of thinks to Mr Bruce of Symbister, which letter I
have seen.”
Whalsey Skerries
Lighthouse, which was first lighted in 1852, is built on a rocky islet,
called the Bond, the most easterly spot in the group. Like those of Unst
and Bressay, it was erected by Messrs. D. and T. Stevenson, Engineers to
the Commissioners of Northern Lighthouses. The tower rises to a height
of ninety-six feet, and contains very similar accommodation to that of
its prototype of the Bell Rock. This light is a revolving one, showing a
bright flash once every minute. It is visible at a distance of eighteen
nautical miles.
A narrow sound intervenes
between the Bond and a This group of isles is usually termed the
Skerries, or Out Skerries. Their lighthouse has, however, been termed
Whalsey Skerries Lighthouse, to distinguish it from similar erections
built on other sherries, as Pentland Skerries.
Gruna, of which island
the lightkeepers and their families are the sole inhabitants. The houses
are fitted up—thanks to the generosity of the Commissioners— with every
appliance to promote the comfort of the inmates that skill can suggest
and money purchase. The keepers who guard this remote station are
generally men of high character and great intelligence. The sound
between Gruna and Bond is often so tempestuous that it is very
difficult, and sometimes quite impossible, to land at the lighthouse.
During a north-easterly gale in February 1870, the sea broke over the
islet and carried away a great part of the* road leading from the
landing place to the tower, some of the stones forming which were
between four and five tons in weight, and had been firmly imbedded in
the rock. From the top of the tower, one hundred and seventy-two feet
above the level of the sea, an extensive view is obtained of the east
coast of Shetland on the one hand, and a great solitary plain of ocean
on the other. A fine little yacht, well adapted for these boisterous
seas, acts as tender to the station, and makes passages to Lerwick, or
elsewhere, as the business of the lighthouse requires.
There is no church in the
Skerries; but a teacher supported by the Society, for Propagating
Christian Knowledge combines the important functions of instructing the
young and conducting divine service on the Sabbath. His school is about
the middle of the largest isle.
The Skerries form part of
the estate of William Arthur Bruce, Esq., of Symbister (a minor).
A dreadful shipwreck
occurred on one of these isles since the above lines were written. In
one of the last days of January 1871, the splendid iron screw steamer
Pacific of Liverpool, of about a 1000 tons register, on leaving Norway
with a cargo of wood, encountered a strong head wind and a tremendous
sea; when, horrible to relate, her propeller suddenly broke with a
fearful jerk, and the good ship became disabled and almost helpless. The
weather, however, afterwards moderated, and the wind becoming easterly
the vessel was enabled to proceed slowly on her course, with the aid of
the few small sails she could set. Even on the 8th of February, hopes
were entertained of reaching some port on the east coast of Scotland or
England in safety. On that night, however, a fearful gale set in from
the south-east. It continued with unmitigated fury all day on Tuesday
the 9th, and was accompanied by blinding showers of dense sleet. In the
forenoon the captain, descrying land on the lee, made an ineffectual
effort to wear the ship. About half-past two the breakers came in sight.
As the vessel was drifting directly broadside on them, one or two
head-sails were set, in order to turn her head towards the rocks, and
thus give the crew a better chance of saving their lives. But the sails
were “ torn to ribbons,” and the ship went broadside on a reef, off East
Linga. Two lifeboats were now lowered; but immediately smashed to pieces
against the vessel’s side. The officers and all the crew went aft, save
two men, who took refuge in the fore-rigging. The ship had not lain many
minutes on the reef till she broke in two; the after-part gradually
sank, and one or two tremendous waves, in the course of two or three
minutes, swept the captain and twenty-five of the crew into eternity.
Meantime, the forepart of the steamer was carried over the reef, and
driven right against the side of the island; whereupon Daniel Coleman
and Edward Johnsen lowered themselves down with ropes, and got on the
dry land. Cold, wet, hungry, bareheaded, barefooted, and clad only in a
ragged shirt and trousers, were these poor men when they came on shore.
To add to their other miseries, they soon discovered they were on a
small uninhabited island, without any kind of provisions. They would
probably have been blown off their place of banishment by the violence
of the hurricane, but for a hut used by the fishermen in summer. In this
cold, damp, dilapidated erection, they got some shelter from the
pitiless storm, and enjoyed occasional snatches of sleep. On Wednesday
Johnsen hoisted a pair of trousers on an oar, placed on the highest
point of the island; this signal was observed by the fishermen at Ska,
in Whalsey, three miles off, but with such weather they could render no
assistance. On Tuesday and Wednesday the only sustenance the survivors
obtained was quantities of water they forced themselves to drink from a
spring. On Thursday and Friday some grass was added, and on Saturday
forenoon the sea, which had been running mountains high round their
insular prison, having somewhat abated, they were enabled to approach
the shore and pick a few limpets, ^which they greedily devoured. There
were two sheep on the islet, but every effort to catch them failed.
Twelve of the brave men
of Whalsey manned one of their powerful boats on Thursday, and attempted
to reach East Linga; but the sea drove them back. Another attempt made
on Friday also proved futile. On Saturday at noon they effected a
landing with great difficulty, and carried the poor starving sufferers
in triumph to Whalsey, where the utmost kindness was showered on them.
From Whalsey they were sent to Lerwick, and thence to Hull. This
narrative is taken from the lips of the survivors. Coleman belongs to
Hull, and Johnsen is a native of Sweden. Strange to say, their health is
almost unimpaired by the fearful sufferings they passed through. |