DUNROSSNESS TO LERWICK
Levenwick—The Moull—Channerwick—Sandwick—Pictish
Burgh or Castle of Mousa—Legend regarding Dame Margareta and Earl Erlend—Sand
Lodge—Copper Mine—Coningsburgh—Its people — Scenery — Aith’s Voe —
Helliness — Fladabiater— Quarff—Brendister—Gulberwick—Shipwreck of Earls
Ronald and Harold, &c.—Bressay Lighthouse—The Knab—Paul Jones repulsed.
LEAVING Voe and
proceeding northwards along a rocky and rather uninteresting coast for
four miles, we pass the northern boundary of Dunrossness, and find
ourselves approaching the shores of Sandwick. From this point of view
they, are highly picturesque. The fine stretch of water lying between
the extensive promontory of Noness and the less prominent head of
Levenwick runs for about two miles into the land, and ^divides itself
into four separate bays or creeks. All these have their ^own peculiar
features of quiet beauty, both of landscape and seascape—to use a
newly-coined word—and it is pleasant, on a fine summer day, to view the
quaint Shetland hamlets, as they gleam out of the sunshine, and look
down upon the placid haven, where the fishermen, in their six-oared
boats, are bringing to land the products of the deep. The most southerly
.is the pretty semicircular bay of Levenwick, with its sandy shore and
amphitheatre of cultiyated fields in the rear. This is the safest
roadstead south of Lerwick. In the good old times it was a favourite
resort of the Dutch; and often a large fleet of their fishing-busses
graced its sheltered waters, while their astute crews carried on a brisk
barter trade with the natives. To this day, the few Hollanders who still
visit the Shetland coast, true to the traditions of their fathers,
occasionally cast anchor for a few hours in the bay of Levenwick. On a
rock overhanging the sea, in the southern part of this district, are the
ruins of two Pictish burghs.
Separating Levenwick from
Channerwick, the next creek is the Moull, a lofty cape, precipitous from
mountain top to waters edge. Near the summit of its giddy cliffs passes
the county road, over which it certainly requires some nerve to travel
in any other way than on foot. At Channerwick an extensive air of
boulders and pebbles marks the division between the picturesque glen
above, and the quiet inlet below. Along the sides of this pretty strath
are evident marks of glacial action.
Along the western side of
the great promontory of Noness, lies the bay of Sandwick, with the
parish kirk at its head. In former times ships are said to have come to
grief, through mistaking this inlet for the entrance to Bressay Sound.
Doubling the precipitous
headland in which Noness abruptly terminates, and encountering the
strong currents that generally sweep round it, we suddenly find
ourselves in Mousa Sound. On the right is the low-lying and
comparatively flat pastoral island of Mousa, upwards of a mile in
length. Formerly inhabited, it is now used only as a grazing isle; but
yet it lays claim to national importance, as being the site of the most
perfect Pictish castle or burgh extant. The tower is circular in form,
about fifty feet in diameter, and attains a height of forty-two feet. It
is built of a sort of slatey stones, of considerable and pretty uniform
size, well laid together without the aid of cement. No wood appears to
have been used in the construction of this remarkable building. In
elevation it resembles a dice-box, bulging out slightly for a little way
above the base, then becoming narrow again, and finally expanding
towards the top, which peculiarity of construction was
evidently-intended to prevent an enemy scaling the walls. It consists of
two concentric walls, each being about five feet in thickness, with an
intervening space of the same width. This space contained all the
barrack accommodation the hardy warriors of old allowed themselves.
Through it a staircase winds, in a screw-like direction, from base to
summit of the building, on its way up communicating with a series of
small chambers, placed one above another, the roof of the lower serving
as the floor of the higher. These are lighted and ventilated by small
apertures, arranged in tiers, and looking into the open courtyard in the
interior of the building, which appears never to have been roofed over.
A low doorway, fifteen feet in length, which pierces the two walls of
the building, conducts the visitors (who must walk on hands and knees),
from the interior into the courtyard. In a time of siege this passage
could be readily obstructed by stones. ,The courtyard is about
twenty-one feet in diameter. The doorway leading to the staircase is a
little above the floor of this area.
[About fifteen years ago
this building, which was literally mouldering into dust, was somewhat
restored at the expense of the Society of Scottish Antiquaries. Gifford
Laurenson, the very intelligent Shetland mason, who had charge of the
work, built a miniature of the Burgh in small slatey stones, which now
graces the Society's Museum in Edinburgh]
Before quitting Mousa it
may not be uninteresting to relate one of the legends which hang round
its venerable Castle, and prove the great antiquity of that wonderful
erection. The story is given by Tor-foeus, but it cannot be better told
than in the eloquent words of Dr Hibbert, which I shall take the liberty
of transcribing. “In the fourteenth century, when, by the rights of udal
succession, there were joint Earls of Orkney, Dame Margareta, the
widowed mother of one of them, listened to the lawless importunity of
the gay Brunnius. Harold, her son, became impatient of the family
disgrace, and banished from the islands his mother’s paramour, as well
as the illegitimate offspring that were the fruits of the connection.
But, in the course of a short time, Dame Margareta s beauties attracted
the notice of a more honourable suitor, who was no other than Harold’s
partner in the Earldom of Orkney and Shetland Erlend proffered love to
the Dame, which she returned; but as her son, from some cause, was
averse to the nuptials, the parties entered into a tender engagement
without his consent, and afterwards fled from his fury with all speed
into Mousa. Then must Harold needs follow them, his hostile barque
sailing in pursuit as fast as if all the winds of heaven had driven
them; and then, anon, fled the Dame Margareta and Erlend into the fort,
within the dark recesses of which they nestled like two pigeons in a
dove-cot. The Burgh was beset with troops, but so impregnable was its
construction, that the assaulter found he had no chance of reducing it
but by cutting off all supplies of food, and by this means waiting the
result of a tedious siege. And now turn we to the gentle pair in the
fortress, that we may speak of what pain they must there endure, what
cold, what hunger, and what thirst. In such a dog-hole a conjuror’s
circle gives content above it; a hawk’s mew is a princely palace to it.’
But Harold had powerful foes in other places wherewith to contend, and
on this account, he gave heed to the advice of his friends, that Erlend
should be retained as a friend and not as an enemy, and that he ought
not to despise the new family alliance. A reconciliation took place, and
then with great joy returned the parties to their several pursuits, well
satisfied with each other. Such is the story chronicled by Torfceus
concerning the siege of Moseyaburgum and the loves of Dame Margareta and
Erlend, her last leman.” At Burrland, on that point of the mainland
which is immediately opposite Mousa Castle, and separated from it by a
sound half a mile wide, stand the foundations of a similar Burgh, long
since demolished. Proceeding northwards about a mile along the coast, we
come to the spacious manor of Sand Lodge, the residence of John Bruce,
Esq., of Sumburgh. In its immediate vicinity two objects of interest
present themselves.
They are a strongly built
pier of considerable length, erected a few years ago by the British
Fishery Society, at the very exposed beach of Sands Air, from which a
white and herring fishery of some importance is carried on; and a mine
of copper pyrites. This vein contains brown haematite as well, but,
until very recently, has not been wrought since 1802. The mining was
then conducted by an English Company, who ~ abandoned their shafts at
Sand Lodge, not because they were unproductive, but because their
affairs became embarrassed by losses elsewhere. Messrs John Walker and
Co., the present enterprising lessees of the mine, have already spent
upwards of £4000 on machinery and in pumping out the old shafts, and
have the prospect of a good return for their outlay.
This eastern district of
Sandwick contains many good cottages and crofts, and is probably better
provided with roads than any other rural district in Shetland.
Pursuing the coast
northwards, and marking the trunk road, as it passes over the
picturesque undulations of 4‘the cliffs,’ we obtain from their elevated
shoulders a bird’s-eye view of the flat and fertile plain of
Conningsburgh, with the neat church and manse in the foreground/ A few
hundred yards west of the highway, as it passes through this populous
district, numerous heaps and mounds mark the site of an archaic village,
hitherto unexplored by the antiquary.
Sandwick and
Conningsburgh belong to the ministry of Dunrossness, but together form
the quoad sacra parish of Sandwick, which contained in 1871 a population
of 2325. The parish school provides for the educational wants of the
former, and that of the Free Church for those of the latter district.
The Conningsburghers
present both physical and mental peculiarities, which entitle them to be
considered a distinct tribe from the rest of the Shetlanders. Having
harsher features, larger muscles, and a broader build than, their
countrymen, they are said more to resemble Saxons than Scandinavians.
Tradition assigns to them a large proportion of Spanish blood. It may be
difficult to recognise in him Iberian features, but there is no doubt
the modern Conningsburgher has much of the excitable nature of the
Spaniard.
Nor is this district a
field for the ethnologist and the archaeologist alone. The sportsman,
tired of sea-fowl, can here expend his skill on rabbits, and the angler
has his choice of trout from the stream or the sea; while the lover of
nature will find much variety of enjoyment whether he rambles among the
picturesque slopes of “ the cliffs ’*—adoined in the proper season by a
beautiful display of blue and yellow wild flowers—paces the fine white
sands of Mail, or wanders along the shores of Aith’s Voe. This narrow
inlet, which separates the plain of Conningsburgh from the promontory to
the eastward, affords good anchorage in its lower reaches; but the
middle of its entrance is obstructed by a reef, and the ebb tide leaves
more than half of it dry land.
We now again betake
ourselves to the sea, and steer towards the rising sun, until we reach
the point of Helliness, opposite the north end of Mousa. In ancient
times it must have been graced by some religious edifice, greatly in
repute for its sanctity, for Helliness is equivalent to Holy Ness. Near
the termination of this sacred promontory are the productive farm and
snug residence of Francis Heddefi, Esq., of Uresland. At the root of
this ness, and on the north, is Ocraquay, a well-sheltered little
harbour. And beyond it Fladabister—still the seat of some of the good
old udallers—with its rich vein of lime-stone, giving fertility to the
soil, and employment to the people, who prepare and export it for
building purposes. The smoke of the limekilns is visible far and near.
Advancing northwards from
Helliness, we seem to be entering a bay of no small dimensions,
terminated on the east by the "bold head of Noss, and ending on the west
as the land stretches from Quarff southwards. At the head of this
apparent bay the land is lowest, and at this point are to be descried
some of the houses which crown the hill over the good town of Lerwick.
As we progress in the same direction, the green valley of Quarff,
cutting directly across a range of high hills, opens itself to view on
the left, displaying some well-tilled fields, and no less than two
churches. Along this smooth valley, two miles in length, boats (and
sometinies pretty large ones) are frequently dragged from one side of
Shetland to the other. Beyond Quarff we pass the somewhat high, but not
prominent head of Brendister, topped by the ruins of a Pictish burgh,
which still contain some curious chambers, and open upon the exposed bay
of Gulberwick, with its sandy shore bordering a deep valley of
basin-like shape, well covered by cottages and corn fields. Gulberwick,
like its neighbouring village of Sound, boasts of considerable
antiquity. It was here that Ronald and Harold, joint Earls of Orkney,
after being shipwrecked, and losing much treasure with their gallant
barques, were hospitably entertained by the substantial udallers.
Despite this mish&p, their lordships made themselves very comfortable.
These were days of poetry as well as romance. Konald beguiled the weary
hours in composing stanzas, and soon foregathered with two native bards,
Od^i Glumson the Little, and Armodr. Such favour did the poets find in
the Earl’s eyes that he attached them to his court, and took them with
him to the Holy Land. At a public feast he was so proud of Armodr s
poems that he presented him with a gold-mounted spear.
Gulberwick is attached
parochially to Lerwick. The chief proprietors are the Misses Greig of
Gulberwick. The district is provided with a Society School.
Passing the low Ness of
Tribister, which bounds Gulberwick Bay on the north, and the bolder Ness
of Sound, beyond that again, we for a moment direct our attention to
Kirkabister, on the opposite shore of Bressay, where a neat little
lighthouse, erected in 1858, guards the entrance to Lerwick harbour. It
has been of signal service to commerce; for, before it was built ships
sometimes mistook the Sound of Noss for that of Bressay, to their almost
certain destruction. We now find that we are getting into “ the
narrows,” and that what appeared to be the head of a bay is the opening
into a sound. Sailing through the “Haddock Sand”—the harvest field to
the Lerwick fishermen—we pass, on the left, a prominent point called the
Knab, that immediately succeeding to the Ness of Sound. This marks the
entrance to Bressay Sound, which it could easily command, in the
military sense of the term. A curious instance of the strategical
importance of the Knab occurred in the career of the famous Paul Jones.
In 1778, when the bold privateer kept all the British coast in terror,
he sailed northwards and was about to pay Lerwick a visit. On reaching
the “Haddock Sand,” he beheld the Knab, its summit crowned with people,
many of whom were bedecked in scarlet. Taking this for the King’s
livery, Jones (whose telescope was probably not very powerful),
concluded the town was strongly garrisoned, and that discretion was the
better part of valour. Therefore he “up helm and off,” as the sailors
say. The soldiers, who thus repulsed the most daring of naval
commanders, were the fair damsels of Sound clad in petticoats of red
wadmal. |