MEANS OF COMMUNICATION
WITH OTHER PLACES
Little Intercourse with
Mainland of Scotland for a long period— Illustrations of this—Sloops
running to Leith—Wreck of the Doris — Smuggling Trade with Holland —
Schooners to Leith—Steamers — Introduction of Penny Postage—Great
Increase of Letters, &c., since—Trade between West Side of Shetland and
Leith—Between North Isles and Lerwick— Steamer—Story — Iceland Mail
Steamer — Shetland Telegraph.
BEFORE proceeding further
with a topographical U account of parishes or districts, let us consider
some matters affecting the whole county. Writing, as I now attempt to
do, a few days after what every enlightened man must regard as the most
important event which has occurred in the history of Shetland for many
years, viz., the opening of telegraphic communication with the mainland
of Scotland, it is difficult to believe that the Ultima Thule was as
much out of the world, and as difficult of access, within the memory of
many still living, as it was in the days of the ancient Romans. For many
centuries after the Islands were annexed to Scotland, in 1468, Shetland
enjoyed little intercourse with that country, the most of its trade
being carried on with Hamburg, Bremen, and other continental ports. No
doubt the annual resort of numerous vessels from these parts to the
Shetland coast, for the purpose of prosecuting the fishing, was the
cause of this commercial intercourse. Communication with the rest of the
world, seems, in these olden times, to have been very irregular; and
many months must frequently have passed, particularly in the winter
time, without the arrival of a vessel. For instance, tradition tells us
that the Revolution of 1688, which occurred in November, was not known
of in Shetland till the month of May following, when a Scotch skipper,
happening to be at Lerwick over the Sunday, went to the kirk, where he
was surprised to hear the worthy parson praying for “guid King Jamie.”
After the conclusion of the service, the captain remarked to some of his
fellow-worshippers that, surely the minister must be a very ignorant
man, when he was praying for a king who had been deposed six months ago.
This remark was newsed abroad; whereupon the loyal authorities of
Lerwick immediately had the revolutionary skipper arrested, on a charge
of high treason. Fortunately for him, however, official intelligence of
the Revolution soon reached the island. Again, tradition furnishes us
with an apt illustration of the extremely indirect communication that
existed between Shetland and the mother country in the good days of
yore. The Rev. Mr Gray of Nesting, a man evidently of some mark in his
day, which was in the beginning of last century, is said to have held
the high office of Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of
Scotland. This must be a mistake, for we do not find his name in the
list of Moderators. However, he was a member of that venerable house,
and his mode of travelling to Edinburgh to attend its meetings is
described. The rev. gentleman came from Nesting to Lerwick in a boat,
whence he went to Hamburg in a smack, and from there to London by
another smack. From London he accomplished his journey to Edinburgh by
coaclu During last century, the Shetland clergy, who attended the
meetings of the General Assembly, which they surely did not do very
often, were in the habit of leaving their parishes in August or
September, residing all winter somewhere on the mainland of Scotland,
and only returning to their northern homes in June following, after the
Assembly had been dissolved. Some of the old Session records contain
notices* of these rev. gentlemen, intimating their intended departure,
and commending the care of the flock to the elders until their return.
After the Dutch and
Flemings withdrew their booths from Shetland, and ceased to employ the
natives to fish for them, in the beginning of last century, intercourse
between the Islands and the mainland of Scotland became more frequent,
although it still continued very irregular. Much of this irregularity
was due to the antiquated build of the vessels, which could scarcely
make a voyage, unless with a favourable wind. Hence the old records
afford numerous instances of craft bound from Scotch ports to Shetland
being-driven to Norway; a fate, it is almost unnecessary to add, never
shared by the clippers of the present day. Trade between Lerwick and
Leith was carried on by means of sloops, which made not more than seven
voyages in the year. After discharging the chief portion of their
cargoes at Lerwick, those smacks generally called kt the principal ports
in the North Isles, returning to Lerwick on their way south. They
generally carried “ship letter mails,” and their periods of arrival were
most irregular. Thus Mr Neill, writing in 1804, tells us that “sometimes
the letters for two or three months arrive at one and the same moment.”1
Despite the miserable character of their accommodation, they were
frequently crowded by passengers of all classes. In February 1813, the
sloop Doris, while on her voyage from Leith to Lerwick, with a heavy
cargo, and many passengers, was overtaken by a severe gale off the
Aberdeenshire coast, when all on board perished. The passengers included
a representative of nearly every leading family in the Islands, so that
the wreck of the Doris is still remembered as one of the most melancholy
events in the annals of Shetland. But although the foreigners had
withdrawn their booths from Shetland, the natives still cherished a warm
affection for their continental friends, and continued to return the
many visits the Dutch had paid them in bygone ages. The trade was
contraband, and therefore the voyages were made with all possible
secrecy. The ordinary practice was for a vessel (probably not larger
than a sloop), after clearing at the Custom-house at Lerwick, for
Norway, to proceed direct to Holland, where she loaded gin and tobacco,
which were quietly landed at Unst, Foula, or some remote part of
Shetland. The smuggler then made all haste for his acknowledged
destination, loaded, timber, and, returning to Lerwick, reported himself
as having been at Norway all the time. The disaster of the Doris was
ascribed as much to the narrow build and over-laden condition of the
smack, as to the violence of the storm; and it had the good effect of
bringing a larger and better class of vessels into the trade; for we
find the old-fashioned sloops were soon superseded by more modern
schooners. One schooner succeeded another in the Lerwick and Leith
trade, each generation of craft being an improvement on that which went
before it, until the Magnus Troil, built in 1830, expressly for the
trade, and named after the hero of the “Pirate" was considered the
climax of all schooner-like perfection. However, she was in turn
superseded by the Matchless, built in 1847, and so named from having
attained to a perfection which could not be surpassed. This gallant
clipper still plies between Lerwick and Leith, bringing good cargoes to
the merchants, and as good dividends to the owners, but she seems
destined to be the last sailing passenger ship in the trade. In 1832,
the first steamer appeared on the Shetland coast, and occasioned some
alarm amongst the unsophisticated peasantry, who supposed it to be a
ship on fire. In 1836, the paddle
steamer Sovereign,
belonging to the Aberdeen, Leith, and Clyde Shipping Company, commenced
to ply between Granton and Lerwick, calling at the intermediate ports of
Aberdeen, Wick, and Kirkwall. She arrived at Lerwick every alternate
Wednesday morning, carrying merely passengers, ship letter mails, and
light goods; and, after lying about three hours, returned the same
forenoon. In 1838, the Government, at the suggestion of Mr Dundas, M.P.
for the county, entered into a contract with this company, who undertook
to carry a mail, per steamer, to Shetland every week, from April to
October, and, during winter, by means of a sailing vessel, from
Aberdeen, as often as weather would permit. Since then, regular steam
communication has continued, and the vessels have * gradually improved
with the advance of the age. An immense impetus was given to postal
communication by the introduction, in 1840, of the penny post. Since
then, the number of letters passing to and from Shetland has enormously
increased; as the following valuable statistics kindly furnished me by
the Surveyor of the General Post Office, Edinburgh, and the Postmaster,
Lerwick, abundantly prove: —
The increase of
epistolary correspondence between 1841 and 1874—little more than a
generation—has thus been upwards of sevenfold. During ten years, from
1864 to 1874, it has been considerably more than doubled; and it is
evidently advancing with increasing ratio every year. In considering
these statistics, it must be remembered that a newspaper agency was only
established at Lerwick in 1864, previous to which year all newspapers
received in Shetland came by post. Since then most of them have come by
other means, Their number being much increased. Money-orders also show a
great increase, but not so striking as letters.
In 1858, the steamer (a
screw) commenced to run all winter, as well as summer; and in 1866, a
bi-weekly boat was added for the summer months. With these facilities
for travelling, the number of tourists and business men visiting
Shetland has greatly increased. For the last twenty years or more, a
smart schooner has plied between Leith and the various small ports on
the west side of Shetland. The pretty little clipper, Queen of the
Isles, at present in that trade, makes a voyage once a month—this great
amount of time being consumed by calling at so many different creeks.
Until 1839, there was no
regular communication between Lerwick and the North Isles of Shetland. A
traveller bound for that quarter had either to hire a six-oared boat, at
great expense; go overland, crossing the ferries, a most arduous mode of
travelling in the absence of roads; or, if he was gifted with great
patience, wait until one of the Leith traders happened to be going
north—no very frequent event. In that year the Janet, a small sloop of
about thirty tons, commenced to ply between Lerwick and. Unst. She was
soon followed by better vessels of the same class, which went on
improving, every decade, until 1868, when the screw-steamer Chieftain's
Bride, of sixty-four tons, was purchased by a local company, and put on
the North Isles and Yell Sound passage. The peerie steamer—as the
natives call her, in contradistinction to the larger one trading to the
south—makes two, and at certain seasons, three voyages to the north each
week, landing and taking on board passengers and goods at numerous ports
of call It is only those who have experienced the discomforts,
uncertainty, overcrowding, and detention—often extending over nights and
days— to which voyagers in the old packets were subjected, who can fully
appreciate the advantages of this little steamer. She is rapidly
developing the resources of the country, and will, it is to be hoped, in
due time yield a fair return to the owners.
It will appear almost
incredible that, so recently as 1847, no steam-vessel had been seen in
the north isles of Shetland. In the summer of that gear, the late Mr
Arthur Anderson, then a candidate for the representation of the county,
entered a certain voe in Yell in his steam-yacht. Some noise was
occasioned by blowing off steam. Two unsophisticated islanders, who were
engaged picking limpets on the seashorse, surveyed the fire-ship in
blank astonishment. At length, the more strong-minded of the two handed
his snuff-horn to his terrified companion, with the exhortation, “O
Jamie, Jamie, tak doo a snuff, for doo ’snuff nae mair wi’ me till we
snuff together in glory.’ He had concluded the great day of wrath had
come, and that on board the steamer was the angel blowing the last
trumpet!
In the spring of 1870 the
Iceland and Faroe Mail Steamer, plying between Copenhagen and those
islands, commenced to call at Lerwick. This vessel calls three times a
year, both on her way to and from Iceland, viz., in April, May, June,
and again in September. This may in time develop a trade with these
countries.
But of means of
communication with other places, the greatest of all is that most
recently introduced, viz., the telegraph. For this great boon we are
undoubtedly indebted to Mr George H. B. Hay, the senior resident
representative of a family which has for generations been honourably
associated with the commercial and landed interests of Shetland. At the
suggestion of Mr Hay, Mr Holmes of London, in 1869, started the Orkney
and Shetland Telegraph Company with a capital of £20,000. Before
commencing operations the company required a guarantee of £1000 a-year
for three years. To meet this a subscription was opened, and headed by
the Earl of Zetland with £150 per annum, and, on his return from London,
Mr Hay held meetings of the principal inhabitants of Kirkwall and
Lerwick, in both of which towns, particularly the latter, the Earl’s
noble example was so readily followed that, in a very short time, twice
the amount of guarantee required was subscribed. The cable was laid from
Wick to Dunrossness, Shetland, through Orkney, in the autumn of 1869;
but unfortunately that portion crossing the Pentland Firth was injured,
and the shore end at San-day sunk, so that attempts to complete the line
could not again be made until the following summer. The good ship Hayle
of Aberdeen successfully accomplished the work, and, on the 8th
September 1870, telegraphic communication was opened between the
benighted isles of Ultima Thule and the rest of the world. Its results
in promoting the peace and prosperity of the future no one can
calculate, but it is matter of regret that the first messages it flashed
along the depths of ocean told the horrors of the great Franco-Prussian
War. From Dunrossness the wires are carried on poles to Lerwick, whence
there is a branch across to Scalloway. In the autumn of 1871, the line
was extended, through the mainland and Yell, to Unst, the most northerly
of the group. |