UNST—continued
Itinerary—Belmont—Uyea
Sound—Muness Castle—Balta—Balta Sound—Buness—M. Biot—Some Distinguished
Natives of Unst—Chromate Quarries—“Fenian Invasion”—Parochial
Statistics—North Coast—Lighthouse.
IN order to enumerate the
various objects of interest in their order, let us return to our method
of following the coast, commencing in the south. Overlooking the
troubled waters of Blue Mull Sound, and commanding a fine view of the
small island of Linga, and the opposite shores of Yell, Belmont, the
tasteful mansion of Major Thomas Mouat Cameron, the principal proprietor
in the island, stands at the head of a pretty inlet. The Major resides
chiefly at Annsbrae, Lerwick, only occasionally visiting Unst. In the
olden time, Belmont was celebrated in the far north, as the almost
constant residence of his relative, Thomas Mouat, Esq. of Belmont, a
gentleman much esteemed in his day for his learning and varied
accomplishments. Mr Mouat, together with the Rev. James Barclay, then
minister of the parish, wrote the first Statistical Account of Unst,
published by Sir J. Sinclair. He also lent material assistance to Dr
Hibbert in the preparation of his great work on Zetland.
Advancing eastward from
Belmont, we enter the safe roadstead of Uyea Sound, protected by the
island of the same name. The shores of the bay, on the Unst side, are
pretty well liued with buildings, consisting of dwelling-houses, shops,
cottages, and the plain but commodious church. A standing stone, of
ancient date, is a prominent object on the heights. There is a good
pier, where an extensive herring-fishing is carried on in the autumn.
The island of Uyea is rich both in arable and pasture land. It is
inhabited merely by the proprietor, the farmer, and their servants.
Outside Uyea are the very fertile grazing islands of Haaf Grunie, and
Wedderholm. Grunie yields serpentine of a superior quality, which takes
on a high polish, and might be useful for ornamental stonework.
Leaving Uyea Sound by its
eastern entrance, which is rather shallow, we reach the point of Muness,
the site of a celebrated feudal castle, now in ruins. It is surrounded
by a group of cottages, and belongs to the estate of Garth. “ It
consists of an oblong building, with a round tower at the north-western
angle, and another at the south-eastern, while at the other two angles
are hanging turrets, with beautiful machicoles delicately wrought in an
extremely hard freestone. Several of the shooting-holes are ingeniously
contrived with a deep cut or groove from right to left, and also up and
down (giving a starlike sculpture to the stone), so as to allow an
increase of range to the archer or musketeer. Over the door is the date
of erection, 1598, and a tablet inscribed with ancient Gothic letters,
beautifully raised
“List ze to know this
building quha began?
Laurence the Bruce, he was that worthy man,
Quha earnestlie his airis and affspring prayis,
To help and not to hurt this wark alwayis.”
“This self-praising
Laurence was a Perthshire gentleman, who (like Moses of old), had fled
from his native country in consequence of having slain a neighbour in
some affray. He was son of Euphemia (daughter of Lord Elphinstone), who,
having borne as a natural child to James V. him who was afterwards
Robert Stewart, Abbot of Holyrood, and Earl of Orkney, married Bruce of
Cultemalindie. This castle might even yet be repaired so as to make an
excellent habitation, although the secretary observed, with xegret, many
of the finely carved stones built into, and forming a portion of, the
dry masonry of the dykes and cottages adjoining. The 4 worthy man9 above
mentioned is said to have perished in a boat with all his people during
a sudden squall.”1 His recorded deeds clearly prove that Cultemalindie
had as little title to worth as his half-brother Lord Robert Stewart, or
to honesty, as his friend and accomplice Thomas Boyne, Foude of Tingwall.
Both friends praised themselves, probably because no one else would; and
both inscribed their praises on stone, evidently hoping future
generations would ascribe to them virtues which their own knew too well
they were utterly devoid of.
Having doubled the point
of Muness, we advance northwards along a rather uninteresting coast
towards Balta Sound, passing, as we reach its south entrance, the small
island of Hunie. Balta Sound is a rather narrow voe or bay, running
nearly two miles into the land. It is rendered completely land-locked by
the island of Balta, which lies directly across its mouth. Balta is
about a mile and a half in length: towards the ocean it is precipitous,
but towards Unst it slopes gradually down to a sandy beach. The island,
which is now uninhabited, is of a peculiarly light green colour in
summer, owing to its luxuriant grass, which feeds ample flocks. It is
infested by numerous rabbits, whose burrowing amongst the sand, together
with the action of the elements, has carried away a good deal of the
soil.
Balta Sound is a very
safe harbour, affording good anchorage. On its north side stands the
neat manor house of Hammar (Mrs Spence of Hammar), and near its head is
Buness, the residence of Thomas Edmond-stone, Esq. of Buness. This is a
very elegant mansion, surrounded by well laid-out gardens' and lawns. An
important addition has recently been made to the house by the present
proprietor. It was at the house of Buness that M. Biot, the celebrated
French philosopher, dwelt for several months in the year 1817, when
engaged in measuring the time of the seconds pendulum. Here also Captain
Kater carried on similar observations the following summer.
The connection between
Buness and these men of science is recorded on a monumental stone,
erected within the grounds by the late laird, who was the host of both
during their sojourn in the. island. For the hospitality shown theiSa,
Mr Edmondstone received the warm thanks of the National Institute of
France, and the Royal Society of London* It may be not uninteresting to
the reader to give some of M. Biot’s impressions of Shetland. “ It was
no longer,” says the philosopher, “those fortunate isles of Spain, those
smiling countries, Valentia, that garden where the orange and lemon
trees, in flower, shed their perfumes around the tomb of Scipio, or over
the majestic ruins of the ancient Saguntum. Here, on landing upon rocks
mutilated by the waves, the eye sees nothing but a soil wet, desert, and
covered with stones and moss, and craggy mountains scarred by the
inclemency of the heavens; not a tree, not a bush, to soften the savage
scene; here, and there some scattered huts, whose roofs covered with
grass allowed the thick smoke with which they are filled to escape into
the fog.” Considering the distracted condition of his own fair but
unhappy country, immediately before the time he wrote, we are not
surprised to find the French savant reflecting on the civil tranquillity
of the Ultima Thule. “ During the twenty-five years in which Europe was
devouring herself, the sound of a drum had not been heard in Unst,
scarcely in Lerwick; during twenty-five years the door of the house I
inhabited had remained open day and night. In all this interval of time,
neither conscription nor press-gang had troubled or afflicted the poor
but tranquil inhabitants of this little isle. The numerous reefs which
surround it, and which renders it accessible only at favourable seasons,
serve them for defence against privateers in time of war;—and what is it
that privateers would come to seek If there were only trees and
sun, no residence could be more pleasant; but if there were trees and
sun, everybody would wish to go thither, and peace would exist no
longer.”
The Edmondstone family
has done much (probably more than all others combined) for the
literature of their native country. The late Dr Arthur-Edmondstone,
F.R.C.S.E., a very talented physician, long resident at Lerwick, besides
a host of trenchant pamphlets on various controversial subjects, wrote
his “View of the Zetland Islands” in 1809. Notwithstanding an
unfavourable criticism in the Edinburgh Review, when it first appeared,
the work has been a standard one on Shetland ever since. In 1806 Dr
Edmondstone wrote an able monograph on Ophthalmia, based chiefly on his
own experience when a surgeon in the army. It still holds a respectable
place in surgical literature. His brother (Dr Lawrence Edmondstone,
still alive, and resident at Haligarth, near Buness) has been a keen
observer in natural history, to which science he has contributed much.
His accomplished lady, recently deceased, possessed a felicitous
literary style. Her chief writings are an interesting little work
entitled, “Tales and Sketches of Shetland,” “A Visit to Shetland * (Chambers’s
Papers for the People), and “Sunshine over Shadow,” being the life of
her son (Mr Thomas Edmonstone, jun.). This gentleman was a naturalist of
extraordinary promise. When eleven years old, he discovered, in his
native island, the Arenaria Norvegica, a plant hitherto unknown in the
British Flora; and at twenty he became Professor of Botany in the
Andersonian University of Glasgow. A few months afterwards, his bright
career was cut short by a violent accidental death, when engaged as
naturalist in H.M.S. Herald in the Pacific. Mr Edmondstone wrote a Flora
of Shetland, the result of his numerous botanical explorations. A
daughter of Dr L. Edmondstone (Mrs Saxby, widow of the late Dr Saxby,
who was distinguished for his knowledge of natural history), possesses
great poetical talent, and lately delighted her countrymen by the
publication of a volume entitled, “Lichens from the Old Rock.” The
present worthy proprietor of Buness has recently, at the request of the
Philological Society, published a “Glossary of Shetland Words,” a work
likely to prove very useful in rescuing from oblivion the remains of a
language fast becoming obsolete.
Somewhat to the north of
Balta Sound are the chief chromate quarries. This mineral, as already
mentioned, was discovered by Dr, Hibbert in 1817, but it was only in
1822 that the late Mr Edmondstone of Buness commenced to work the
quarries. At first the chromate fetched as high as £10 per ton, but soon
the prices fell, as mineral of a better quality can be procured from
America and Russia. For a time no market could be found for Unst
chromate, but now it sells pretty well, as manufacturers find it
convenient to mix it with ore of a softer consistence. It is used
chiefly for producing yellow paints, and also in the preparation of the
new colours, magenta, solferino, &c. Three different qualities of
chromate are obtained from the Unst mines, first, second, and third. For
a long time the third-rate quality was unsaleable, and a great quantity
of it accumulated, from year to year, as rubbish. Recently, however, the
present energetic factor on the estates of Garth and Annsbrae has
contrived an apparatus for washing away the debris from the third-rate
chromate; so that the mineral remaining after this process now realises
about £1, 7s. per ton. The mines at present employ about fifty men and
boys. The ore is detached by means of blasting, and the fragments are
brought to the surface, and the water pumped out of the holes by
steam-power. These mines have been a source of great gain to the
proprietors, and must also have done much good by employing many of the
islanders.
At a little distance from
the head of Balta Sound stands the Parish Church, a large and
comfortable building, devoid of architectural attractions. A little
higher up the valley is the large and handsome manse, beyond which again
is situated Hillside, the pretty residence of the Rev. Dr Ingram. It is
surrounded by well laid-out gardens, lawns, and fields; and within this
private enclosure is a well-built Industrial School, and the neat Free
Church, where the venerable Doctor, now ninety-eight years of age, still
occasionally officiates.
Before quitting the
subject of individuals of note connected with Unst, it would be wrong
not to mention that this island has given a Principal to the University
of Glasgow. The Very Rev. Thomas Barclay, D.D., the late Principal, was
youngest son of the late Rev. James Barclay, Minister of Unst, who died
in the end of last century. The charges Dr Barclay held, in succession,
were, the parishes of Dunrossness and Lerwick, in Shetland; Peterculter,
in Aberdeenshire; Currie, in Midlothian; and lastly, the Principal's
Chair in Glasgow. The talents and learning which thus raised him are too
well known to require mention here.
A few years ago, the
remote island of Unst came very prominently before the British public.
In the summer of 1866, some suspicious cruisers had been observed
amongst the fishing vessels at Faroe. About the middle of August, a most
alarming article appeared
in the Scotsman, giving
an account of a serious Fenian raid on Unst. The island was described as
having been invaded by two or three Fenian vessels, which bombarded and
fired the church, levied heavy contributions, and carried off several of
the leading inhabitants as hostages. An immense sensation was produced.
The Government is said to have sent a man-of-war so far north as
Peterhead, while the Lord Advocate made arrangements with the
Commander-in-Chief of the Forces in Scotland for the protection of the
country. In the course of the day in which the article appeared, it was
found the paper had been hoaxed. Tins fact was telegraphed all over the
kingdom, and every means was taken for the detection of the offender,
but without success.
In 1861, Unst contained a
population of 3060. The last Census shows a population of only 2780. The
educational wants are supplied by the parochial and several other
schools. The Established Church is represented by the Parish Church, and
a mission chapel and school, lately erected in the south-west of the
island; the Free Church, by commodious churches at Uyea Sound and Balta
Sound, and a chapel in the north end of the island; while the Wesleyans
have a small chapel and mission house in the north district. The
Wesleyan minister at Unst must have very arduous duties, for he is the
only clergyman of his denomination in the north isles; and therefore he
has to itinerate through Unst, Yell, and Fetlar, supplying, in
succession, the chapel in each district.
Good roads have lately
been made in Unst, at the expense of the island itself. They extend from
Uyea Sound to Haroldswick, and again, from Buness to the Loch of Cliff:
In order to visit the
north end of the island, however, let us betake ourselves to the highway
of the sea. If our bark be small, and propelled by oars or a fair wind,
we leave Balta Sound through its northern entrance, navigation through
which is rather intricate, as it contains some shallows. Passing in
succession the open exposed bays of Haroldswick and Nor wick, with their
rugged shores, we double the point and Holm of Ska, and direct our
course towards the northern shores of the island. Ska was long regarded
as the most northerly point in the British dominions, but Captain
Thomas, who conducted a very elaborate survey of the Shetland coast, has
determined that this distinction belongs to the Holms of Burra Firth,
farther west. As we skirt the northern shores of Unst, under the brow of
Saxaford, the scenery increases in grandeur, boldness, and variety. The
lofty cliffs, pierced here by magnificent caves, and there rent by
fearful gios, with silvery mountain streams pouring down their sides,
defy description, as much as the great gaunt-looking stacks which rise
out of the ocean, as if to guard them from its assaults; and the clouds
of sea-fowl, which relieve theuf solitude by many screams, and variegate
their iron sides by the constant movement of their phalanges. This
precipitous coast is rent in twain by the long and deep indentation of
Burra Firth, which runs into the land between two bold headlands, or
rather two steep-sided hills. On the fine head of Hermaness, which
guards the western side of Burra Firth, a few pairs of the bunxie, or
Skua gull, still build. This large and beautiful bird is now found
nowhere else in the British Isles, save in Foula. “The great Icelandic
owl (Strix nyctea), the most beautiful and magnificent of all the
European nocturnal birds of prey, is known to haunt the moorish wilds
and craggy cliffs of Unst alone, of all the British Islands.”
About a mile to north of
Hermaness, several high and naked rocks stand alone in the ocean. On one
of these, called Muckle Flugga, the Unst Lighthouse, represented in the
accompanying engraving, is built. For a description of this interesting
structure, we cannot do better than quote an article by the
distinguished engineer who erected it. “ This class of stations {i.e.,
those on outlying isolated rocks ”), writes Mr Stevenson, “may be fitly
represented by the North Unst Lighthouse, off the north coast of
Shetland, which we select as being the most northern point of Her
Majesty’s British dominions, The north Unst tower is built on an
outlying rock of a conical form, called a ‘stack' which rises to the
height of nearly two hundred feet above the sea. Towards the north its
face is nearly perpendicular, and exposed to the full fetch of the
Northern Ocean. Its southern face is an abrupt rocky slope, which,
previous to the cutting of steps on its surface, could only be scaled
with great difficulty. The top of the rock affords little more area than
is sufficient for the site of the lighthouse. The tower is fifty feet in
height, and contains the light-room, sleeping*room, kitchen, and
provision store. The base of the tower is surrounded by a semicircular
building, containing the oil, coal, and water stores. There is only one
part of the rock at which a landing can be effected, and that, of
course, only in favourable weather. The dwelling-houses for the families
of the four lightkeepers are built on the island of Unst, in a creek
called Burra Fiord, about four miles from the lighthouse. The first
light on this rock was shown from a temporary tower, erected in 1854, at
the suggestion of the Admiralty, for the benefit of the North Sea
Squadron, then engaged in prosecuting the Russian war. It was deemed
advisable to provide certain lights before winter set in, and only a few
months remained to make all the necessary preparations for indicating to
our navy the rugged shores of northern Shetland. The Pharos steamer left
Glasgow with the workmen and temporary lighthouse and dwellings, on the
31st July, and the light was exhibited on the 11th October; and when it
is considered that the whole of the materials and stores—consisting of
water, cement, lime, coal, ironwork, glass, provisions, &c., and
weighing upwards of one hundred and twenty tons,— had to be landed on an
exposed rock, and carried up to the top in small quantities on the backs
of labourers, it will be seen that the exertions of Mr Brebner, who
acted as resident engineer, and of Mr Watt, who took charge of the
landing department, were in the highest degree praiseworthy. Even with
the fine weather that prevailed, the landings were latterly very
difficult, and could only be accomplished by lashing ropes to the
various articles and lowering them out of the landing-boats, and
thereafter hauling them to the edge of the rock. But notwithstanding all
untoward circumstances, the whole process of transporting the materials
to the top of the rock, and erecting the lighthouse, was accomplished in
the wonderfully short space of twenty-six days. The temporary houses
were of iron, surrounded by a casing of rubble masonry, set in cement.
Seeing that these temporary buildings were elevated two hundred feet
above the sea, it was hardly to be expected that they should have had
anything but the wind and the rain to withstand ; but the succeeding
winter months revealed a very different and unlooked-for state of
matters. From the 1st to the 4th of December, the north of Shetland was
visited by a severe gale from the north-west. The foreman of the
quarriers, who had been left to complete the cutting of the steps on the
face of the rock, reported that on the 3rd of December the sea began to
break over the rock about nine a.m., and increased in weight until one
o’clock : several seas thereafter broke heavily on the tower, and one of
them burst open the door of the dwelling-house, deluging the whole with
water, so that the view we have given in the woodcut does not exaggerate
the fury of the waves. Similar storms occurred during the winter, and
the seas fell with such violence upon the iron roof of the
dwelling-house, r and on the lantern of the lighthouse, as to raise
fears for the safety of the buildings. An elevation of nearly two
hundred feet was not sufficient to place these temporary buildings
beyond damage from the sea; and in erecting the permanent establishment,
it was resolved to raise the lightroom fifty feet above the lofty rock
on which it stands, so that the seas might pass over without obscuring
or endangering the light. The permanent structure which we have already
described, shows a fixed dioptric light of the first order, and was
completed in 1858, at a cost—including the shore establishment —of about
£32,000.” There is nothing worthy of remark on the bold and rocky west
coast of Unst Towards the south, where it becomes low, is situated the
pretty house, grounds, and farm of Lund, the property of Miss Cameron
Mouat, of Garth. Unfortunately Lund, which in Norse signifies a grove,
is only that in name. |