Eshaness—Cross Kirk—Stenness—Dore
Holm—Tangwick—Drongs—Hillswick Ness—Heads of Grocken.
AS we proceed northwards,
along the green braes of Eshaness, it is pleasant to behold its rich
pasture, and fine flocks and herds. The churchyard of Braken was once
surrounded by a considerable population, but the arable ground in that
quarter has long since been converted into a sheep-walk. The
burying-ground, still in use, besides several interesting monuments,
contains the foundation of a once famous edifice, termed the Cross Kirk.
Long after the abolition of Popery, Cross Kirk held a high repute for
sanctity, and hither many pilgrims repaired. Some of its virtues were
believed to extend even to the shell snails which sheltered in its
mouldering walls. The poor creatures were collected, dried, powdered,
and prescribed as a remedy for jaundice. It was customary to walk at
Candlemas to the Chapel, in the dead of night, with lighted candles,—
this being the ceremony used in memory of Christ, the Spiritual Light.
The tapers thus solemnised would, no doubt, be converted to the popular
use which their well-known virtues throughout all Christendom have from
time immemorial suggested; they would be lighted up whenever thunder was
heard, or the malevolence of demons was apprehended.” At length arose Mr
Hercules Sinclair, minister of Northmavine, who, in the heat of his
Protestant zeal, caused the old kirk to be razed to its foundations.
Stenness is well adapted
for the large fishing-station of which it is the seat. It is as near the
western fishing-ground as any point* of land can be. The isle of the
same name, acting as a breakwater, completely protects the convenient
little harbour from the violence of the Atlantic, while its ample beach
of small boulders affords great facilities both for hauling up the
boats, and drying the fish. The long rows of boats on each side of the
little wick, testifies to the large number of boats’ crews which
prosecute the Stenness haaf-fishing.
The isle of Stenness
wears a most desolate aspect, and displays abundant evidence of the
awful havoc wrought by the ocean, when it dashes with unmitigated fury
against an unprotected coast. Nearly every winter, immense blocks of
rock are forced, by this tremendous hydraulic pressure, from their
native beds, and carried away to a distance, sometimes up an acclivity.
Dr Hibbert found, that in the winter of 1802, a tabular-shaped mass,
eight feet two inches by seven feet, and five feet one inch thick, was
dislodged from its bed, and removed to a distance of from eighty to
ninety feet The learned doctor gives measurements of other large blocks
that have been removed; and goes on to remark—“Such is the devastation
that has taken place amidst the wreck of nature. Close to the Isle of
Stenness is the Skerry of Esha-ness, formidably rising from the sea, and
showing on its westerly side a steep precipice, against which all the
force of the Atlantic seems to have been expended ; it affords a refuge
for myriads of kittiwakes, whose shrill cries, mingling with the dashing
of the waters, wildly accord with the terrific scene that is presented
on every side.”
On leaving the little
harbour of Stenness, by its rather intricate south entrance, the lofty
Holm of Tangwick comes in view, its sable hues forming a marked contrast
to the gay colours of other rocks along the coast. Through it the sea
has cut a magnificent archway, seventy feet wide, and high enough to
allow a vessel with all sail to pass. From its gigantic portal, this
huge rock gets the name of the “Dore Holm.”
At the commencement of
the low ness of the same name stands the quaint old-fashioned
manor-house of Tangwick, for several generations the residence of the
Cheyne family. The good old mansion is kept in good repair, and as
nearly in its original state as possible. The Cheynes of Tangwick came
originally from Aberdeenshire, and are descended from a minister who
held the parish of Nesting at the Reformation. They resided in Shetland
ever since, until the late Mr Henry Cheyne settled in Edinburgh, where
he attained to eminence in his profession of Writer to the Signet. The
present representative of the family is his son, Sheriff Cheyne of
Dundee.
We have seen many notable
instances of hard rocks upheaved from their beds, and dispersed in many
pieces, by the force of the ocean, but we now come to something that has
stood for ages proof against its repeated and violent assaults. The
Drongs must ever excite the wonder and admiration of all lovers of the
grand and beautiful in nature who have the privilege of seeing them.
“This immense rock,” writes the late minister of Northmavine, “rises
almost quite perpendicular to the height of an hundred feet from the
water, and at a distance has the appearance of a vessel under sail Near
to this are two very high pillars, of the same kind of rock with the
Drongs, and With the stupendous crags upon the shore; and it is not
improbable that these have all been at one time united together, but
have separated, not by volcanic eruptions, but by the billows of the
ocean, which nothing almost can resist, during the winter storms.” It is
interesting to behold these magnificent pinnacles, not only from
different points of view, but with different kinds of weather. In summer
they seem to smile upon the glassy sea beneath, and the blue sky above,
while the rays of an unclouded sun intensify the red colours they
present. In winter the Drongs lend terror to the frowning sky overhead,
and the tumultuous waves beneath, as they send column after column of
white spray upwards, as if to destroy the towering pillars which so
proudly overtop them. The large promontory, called the Ness of Hillswick,
faces the Drongs on the south. The cliffs—for it is precipitous all
round—are of the same bright red colour as the Drongs, but over their
sides a curious bluish lichen, of various shades, has grown. These
brilliant and variegated colours, and the many grotesque stacks, and
caves, and crags they adorn, render a sail round Hillswick Ness
peculiarly pleasing. On the opposite side of the little bay of Sand
wick, and north from the Ness, the bright red heads of Grocken heave
their bold peaks aloft. |