DWELLINGS, FOOD, AND
PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE.
The Shetlander’s House and
Croft—Fishing at the Haaf— at Greenland—at Faroe—Sailors in Southern
Trade—Employments of the Women—Social Condition of People—Imaginary
Family Group on a Winter Evening—Schools—Disparity in Age of Sexes at
Marriage—Registrar-General’s Return as to Morality —Country
Weddings—Conclusion of Thesis.
AS is almost indicated by
the very nature and position of his country, the natural occupation of
the Shetlander is that of a fisherman. If his northern clime forbids the
earth to yield her fruits in rich abundance, as in more favoured
regions, an All-wise Providence has provided for the inhabitant of Thule
an abundant harvest of the sea, ever ready to call forth his energy and
repay his daring. The peasants of Shetland, thus engaged in the fishing,
dwell in cottages of a very humble kind, surrounded by crofts of
imperfectly cultivated land, varying in extent generally from two to
four acres. These little holdings are generally situated along the edges
of voes, or inland bays, with which the country is so much intersected;
but in the more fertile districts they extend into the valleys, running
up from the inland terminations of these voes into the interior.
Occupying a croft, and not a mere cottage like the denizens of our
Scottish fishing villages, the Shetland peasant becomes a pluralist, a
farmer as well as a fisherman. Having reached his homestead, let us
explore it before following him to the nautical part of his labours. He
lives in a “toon” (town), consisting of perhaps twelve small farms,
situated on comparatively level ground, by the side of a voe, and
enclosed by a hill-dyke of turf, separating it from the common. With the
exception of a belt of coarse pasturage within the dyke, this space is
cultivated according to the primitive agriculture of these
farmer-fishermen; and scattered over it, at irregular intervals, are the
cottages, flanked by steadings of a very humble description. The cottage
is a very lowly building, twenty-eight or thirty feet in length, and
from eight to ten in breadth. It is built of rough, unhewn stones,
cemented, or rather separated by clay, and pointed always inside, and
often outside, with the ordinary mortar of lime and sand. The side walls
are only from four to six feet in height, and the gables slope upwards
rather abruptly. The roof consists of flaas, pones, or thin divots of
dried turf, spread on wood, and covered with straw placed in a vertical
direction, and held in its place by simmins, or straw ropes, which are
kept constantly tense by stones suspended from their lower ends. This
thatch is found to resist all the rains of winter, but, as the couples
are supported in the middle of the side wall and not made to project
over it, a good deal of water percolates downwards amongst the stones,
and thus the house is rendered damp. But the most defective sanitary
arrangement, in relation to the building, is the dose proximity of the
dunghill, which is placed immediately in front of, and only separated
from the house by a narrow path, covered with rough stones, and barely
wide enough to admit of access. Internally the cottage is divided by a
wooden partition into two apartments, the one occupying rather more than
two-thirds, and the other rather less than one-third of its length. The
former division is called the butendy and constitutes the kitchen,
mess-room, and general dormitory of the family, and. servants, if any
are kept. It is lighted partly by a window from eighteen inches to two
feet square, and partly by two or three large lums, which perforate the
upper portion of the roof, and serve the double purpose of letting out
smoke and letting in light. The apartment is floored with hard clay or
earth, the surface of which presents considerable diversity of hill and
dale. Unless the house be of very modem construction, there is no proper
chimney, and the happy family is thus enabled, on the dreary winter
evenings, to form an exact circle round the fire, as it glows brightly
on their cheerful hearth. The bare stone walls are almost concealed by
numerous chests, supported by beams of wood, and ranged round the room,
and by box-beds (which are appropriately named), constructed similarly
to those used on board ship. A resting-chair, or rough uncushioned
wooden sofa, on each side of the fire, a small table, probably a
spinning-wheel, and a few kitchen chairs, complete the furniture of the
but-end; but it is further lumbered with pails of water, kegs or jars of
blaand and a churn. A young pig, one or two young calves, several fowls,
and perhaps a lamb, if not inmates of, are constant visitors to, this
outer chamber. On entering the ben-end we find an air of greater comfort
and respectability. It forms the bed-room of the good couple, and the
drawing-room to which favoured visitors are admitted. A ceiling of lath
and plaster or wood conceals the bare rafters, the room is floored with
wood, and the smoke is conveyed upwards by a properly-built chimney.
Light is introduced by a window pretty well suited to the size 6f the
apartment, and the effect is intensified by the walls being well
plastered and whitewashed. A few neat but plain articles of furniture,
together with two or three photographs, or foreign curiosities, sent
home by a relative abroad, and displayed to the best advantage, tend to
remove the impression of wretchedness the appearance of the but-end has
produced on the stranger. Miserable as these dwellings may seem to one
accustomed to more southern regions, there is probably no peasantry in
the world in more comfortable and easy circumstances than that of
Shetland. At the haaf or deep-sea fishing, from May to August, the
father and grown-up sons can earn more than sufficient money to pay the
rent’ of the farm, and supply the family with meal. If they go to the
herring fishing from the middle of August till the end of September,
their means are still further increased. A constant supply of haddocks,
small cod, and, in great abundance, sillocks, and piltocks, is to be
had, and these form the staple diet of the family. Potatoes of good
quality, and abundant in quantity, are grown' on his farm, which also
supplies meal for from four to eight months of the year, according to
the size of the family, the fertility of the soil, and the
favourableness of the season. The men clothe themselves with the
proceeds of the fishing, and the women barter their knitted goods for
their two favourite articles—dress and tea. These, together with hens’
eggs, which their farms produce in abundance, are generally sufficient
to procure all groceries required, except meal.
But the Shetlander’s farm
and his fishing-boat are not his only sources of incoma Outside his
hill-dyke is a range of common, miles in extent, where the tenants have
the privilege of grazing their milk cows, and keeping generally as many
sheep, ponies, and young cattle, as they please. The cows have, of
course, to be brought home regularly, to be milked in summer, and, in
winter, they and the young cattle must be housed and fed within the
dykes, but the other hardy animals find both food and shelter for
themselves as best they can all the year round. The sale of some of his
live stock, from time to time, is a great source of profit to the
cottar, as the prices have been high ever since the opening of steam
communication with the south; and if ever there is’ an unwonted drain
upon his resources, he can generally meet it by disposing of a cow or a
pony. The sheep are most valuable, not only as food and articles of
sale, but also as affording the females the raw material out of which to
produce their far-famed hosiery.
But there are other
occasional sources of considerable profit. Sillocks, or the young of the
Gadus Carbonarius as already mentioned, are generally caught during the
winter in quantities sufficient to constitute them the most important
article of diet, and their livers supply the captors with the finest of
oil, to light up their cottages during the winter nights. In the winter
of 1865—66 the take of these fishes was enormous. I have heard of men
who, for a fortnight or more, could make from 30s. to £2 a-day, by
selling the livers of the sillocks they caught, to the nearest merchant,
for the manufacture of oil. By these livers alone many men made from £30
to £40 in a few weeks, and at a time of the year when they would have
been doing nothing else. In the autumn, large shoals of bottle-nosed
whales (the Delphinus Melas) are often stranded, and are more or less
profitable to the captors, according to their own number, the number of
the pack, and the price of oil. A whale chase of a few hours will often
yield the pursuers from £2 to £5 each.
From what has been said
it might almost be gathered that the food of the Shetlanders consists of
fish and potatoes, cakes of barley and oatmeal, with butter and milk,
considerable quantities of tea being drunk, especially by the females.
Fowls and their eggs are considered too profitable articles of commerce
to be consumed at home. A little pork or mutton, smoked or salted, may
be used in winter; but beef is only partaken of on festive occasions.
When more sillocks, or other small fishes, are caught than can be eaten
at the time, they are hung up unsalted, and being partially dried, are
eaten in a semi-putrid state, when they are said to be blawn. Fish in
this state is much relished by all classes of the community.
Fuel, the next great
essential to human life, is both abundant and easily procured. Peats are
cut in the nearest hill in the month of May, dried during the summer,
and conveyed home as occasion requires, either in Jeishies on the
women’s backs, or by means of' similar contrivances fixed on the backs
of the ponies. The application of turf to the purpose of affording fuel
is said to have been first suggested by Einar, the fourth Scandinavian
Earl of Orkney and Zetland, who for his valuable discovery had the word
torf prefixed to his name, and became Torf-Einar.
The haaf, or deep-sea
fishing, the prosecution of which constitutes the chief employment of
the Shetland men, is carried on at the fishing stations, favourably
situated, and at these the fishers collect, often from considerable
distances. The boat used is an undecked Norway yawl, 19£ feet of keel,
propelled by a single large square log sail, or, when that is not
available, by six oars. This craft is manned by either six or seven men,
who set out for the fishing ground, 40 or 50 miles from land, generally
at sunrise the one morning, returning in the evening of the following
day; or, if the weather be propitious, and fish abundant, they may
remain over another night. The fish are caught by means of long-lines}
which the boats bring with them ready baited. When the boat reaches the
fishing ground these are at once set, and again hailed, after an
interval of a few hours. During the short periods they are ashore, at
the fishing stations, the men are accommodated in little huts called
lodges, each boat’s crew occupying a separate lodge. On being landed at
the station the fish is sold to the factor, for the laird or merchant,
who superintends the coring of it. This deep-sea fishing season, as
already stated, extends only from about the 12th of May to the 12th of
August. The fish thus taken are chiefly tusk and ling, with a few cod.
During the season the men invariably return to their homes on Saturday
night, going back to the stations on Monday morning.
But all the men are not
engaged in the haaf fishing. Six or seven hundred go on voyages to the
whale and seal-fishing every year, joining the whalers from Peterhead,
Dundee, Hull, (fee., in the months of February and March, and returning
during summer or autumn. The Faroe cod-fishery affords profitable
employment, during the spring and summer months, to between seven and
eight hundred 'Shetlandmen.
Nor are all her nautical
men employed in catching fish in the north seas. Dr Edmondston tells us
that, in 1809, when the country only contained two-thirds of its present
population, there were three thousand of its sons fighting our battles
in the navy. Although at the present day very few enter the royal navy,
a still larger number are engaged in carrying on our maritime commerce
all over the world; and a good many have become settlers in our younger
colonies, especially Australia and New Zealand. This explains why the
population of Shetland, in 1871, consisted of 12,847 males and 18,524
females, shewing the proportion of males to females to be exactly 2 to
3. While the men are engaged at the fishing, which they are nearly all
summer, the work of the farm devolves upon the women, and this, with
domestic duties and knitting, occupies the most of their time. At the
latter occupation the females are most industrious, and they may be seen
deftly plying their wires, even when carrying heavy burdens on their
backs. A curious memorial of a great national event is to be found in
the pattern of knitted goods peculiar to one of the isles. As already
mentioned a flag-ship of the Spanish Armada, with one of the Admirals on
board, was wrecked on the Fair Isle in 1588. During their stay on the
island the Spaniards taught the natives to knit according to a Spanish
pattern, in which various gaudy colours were very conspicuous. Goods of
this pattern, still manufactured by the fair Fair islanders, find their
chief purchasers among the Spaniards in London.
In order the better to
enter into the social condition of these people, let us observe a family
group on a winter evening. The fire glows cheerfully, and the peats,
being well burnt down, yield no smoke. The light it emits is intensified
by that of the collie (or iron lamp) which is hung on the gable wall.
The presiding genius is evidently the master of the house, a strong,
robust-looking man of fifty, but whose youthful appearance could easily
enable him to pass for thirty. He is industriously engaged in
manufacturing a pair of boots for himself, but, being by no means of a
taciturn disposition, he is able to entertain his companions by
narrating some of his experiences at the haaf during the previous
summer, or by describing his intricate pecuniary relations with the
laird or the merchant On the right the gudeman is supported by his
nephew, a smart young fellow, who, although he has only completed the
third decade of his life a year or two ago, has already obtained the
much-envied title of “ Captain,” being in command of a ship of a
thousand tons sailing from Liverpool. While his ship is being refitted,
he has come down to see the “old rock” which he left, when a poor
uneducated boy, sixteen years ago. The gallant Captain contributes to
the intellectual feast by recounting some of his adventures in the China
Seas, especially among the pirates with 'whom they are infested. The
gudeman18 father, a venerable sire upwards of eighty, while busily
winding simmins (spinning straw ropes), speaks of the days of his youth,
when he “ with Nelson ploughed the main,” and tells how four Shetland
boys, who were pressed along with him, rose to be admirals. Minnie, the
gudewife's mother, as she assiduously plies her spinning wheel, relates
stories told by her female ancestors fifty years ago, of the fine things
their stockings used to procure from the u Hollanders,n in the good old
days of yore, before dis vile Scotsmen began to come ta da koiintry. The
gudewife herself is a silent listener, but her fingers are with all
activity employed in knitting a “pair o’ da very best tree-ply stockins,”
for presentation to the young laird (which is thought will be no
unprofitable investment). With true motherly solicitude, she frequently
withdraws her thoughts from the important subjects of the conversation,
to speculate on the prospect of da lasses returning frae da meetin in
safety. The younger members of the family enjoy the conversation, and
little Magnie hopes some day to be a second Nelson, or, at all events, a
grand captain, like cousin Lowrie. At length the lasses appear, all safe
and sound, and, with great volubility, expatiate on the eloquence of da
dear cratur, the minister they have just been hearing. Their venerable
grandmamma expresses surprise at their audacity in venturing through the
hills at such an hour, when bohies, trows, and all kinds of unearthly
beings, are sure to be abroad.8 Her granddaughters laugh at her
credulity, and soon dissipate even the old woman’s gloom, by rehearsing,
most melodiously, one of the beautiful hymns sung at the said meeting.
In such a scene as the
above we have a key to the Shetlander’s character. His mind is expanded
by being obliged, like his able countryman “Johnny Notions,” to be a
“jack-of-all-trades.” Some arithmetical skill is required to add
together all the quantities of fish taken, from time to time, to divide
that by six or seven, to find the pecuniary value of this dividend and
certain personal services, and to balance the sum against the account at
the merchant’s, for various advances during the year. His transactions
with the proprietor call the same powers into action, and no small
sharpness is required for buying and selling cattle to advantage. A
problem in the calculation of probabilities has constantly to be wrought
to determine whether he ought to remain at his present employment, or
try his fortune at Faroe, Greenland, or Liverpool. Intercourse with men
from other districts, at the fishing station, and with those who have
returned from abroad, at his own house, also tends to expand his ideas.
Thus the Shetlander becomes a shrewd, observing fellow, with a
versatility of attainments, which enables him to do almost anything. He
is also endowed with a great deal of the maviter in modo, probably
produced by centuries of intercourse with foreigners, and the servile
condition in which the proprietors long kept their tenants. The females,
for their rank in life, are also wonderfully polite and graceful in
their deportment. They are much more isolated than the men, seldom
meeting with any one not a member of their little community, unless when
9>n absent member of that community happens to return home. Need we
wonder, then, that their affections become very much developed, and,
acting on the nervous system, render it more than ordinarily sensitive?
Perhaps this, together with a pensive disposition, induced by the nature
of their employments and the scenery which surrounds them, may account
for the preternatural sensibility to impressions for which they are
remarkable.
It is manifestly a
difficult matter to supply Shetland with schools, owing to the sparse
manner in which the dwellings are scattered over the country. In the
last edition of the “Zetland Directory,” published in 1861, there is a
list of forty-two schools, said to constitute the educational machinery
of the country. As I can detect several omissions, we may add eight to
the list, and estimate the number of schools at fifty, which is by no
means sufficient to supply the wants of the country, as many children
live five or six miles from t}ie nearest establishment of the kind. No
schools have yet been erected under the new Education Act. Despite these
disadvantages, all the people can read, and the great majority of the
men can write. Writing is not so generally acquired by the females, as
is shown by the Registrar-General’s returns for 1862, which give the
proportion of women married that year, who signed their names, as 63’08
per cent., and of men 87*69 per cent. The education acquired at the
existing country schools is of the most elementary character; and until
lately, almost no Shetland youth was able to fit himself for entering a
university, unless his parents were able to send him, for some time, to
a good school in the south. Many of the country schoolmasters, however,
teach navigation well. The educational capacities of the Shetlanders are
shown by the rapidity with which many of them, in adult life, acquire
the attainment requisite to qualify them for shipmasters.
One of the most
remarkable phenomena in the social system of this people is the
disparity in the age of the two sexes at marriage. The great majority of
the fishermen marry at the age of from twenty to twenty-two, women of
from twenty-eight to thirty, and yet sterility is very seldom the
result, as Dr Matthews Duncan tells/* us it should be in women marrying
after twenty-five.1 Perhaps this may be accounted for on the supposition
of the period of greatest fecundity being later in Scandinavian
countries than throughout the rest of Europe. In view of the wives being
older than the husbands, it is also interesting to note that, in
Shetland, the preponderance of male over female births is considerably
greater than in Scotland as a whole, the numbers for 1862
being—Proportion of males to 100 females born in Shetland, 114*8;
Scotland, 106*6. These results run directly counter to the doctrine that
the sex of the child is, in the greatest number of instances, the same
as that of the parent who is oldest.
The Registrar-General's
returns indicate a high rate of morality in Shetland. The per centage of
the illegitimate births to the total births, in 1862, was 3*6, which is
lower than any county in Scotland, save Orkney, and Ross and Cromarty,
the numbers for which were 3*5 and 3*5 respectively. The percentage for
Scotland was 9*7, nearly three times as great as that for Shetland. This
high rate of morality is surprising, when we remember there are fully
twice as many women as men in, the country, and even more so in view of
certain strange customs which those who lead a seafaring life abroad
marry later in life, and therefore take wives younger than themselves.
I say “twice as many
women as men;” because, although the census returns show the proportion
of females to males to be 3 to 2, we must remember the sexes are about
equal as to numbers till the age of eighteen. Supposing then a third of
the population, equally divided as to sex, under that age, we have twice
as many women as men who are beyond eighteen. The sexes are supposed to
be equal in numbers under the age of eighteen, to make allowance for the
greater mortality universally observed amongst boys, counterbalancing
their numerical preponderance at birth prevail. The country weddings
take place in the winter time, and are attended by a large number of
persons .from all parts of the neighbouring districts. Dancing begins in
the evening, and is continued till the small hours of the morning are
“getting large again,” interrupted by brief but frequent intervals for
drinking. The festivities over for the night, the dancers, instead of
returning to their homes, adjourn to the barn of their host’s cottage,
which serves as a dormitory, the members of each sex being alternately
ranged along the floor, on a huge couch of straw. Until very recently
these festivities were continued over three days, but now they are
confined to one. The people enter quite innocently into these “barn
buifdlings,” as they are termed, and both statistics and the testimony
of respectable persons who have taken part in them, prove that nothing
immoral occurs. But “barn bundlings,” and all other relics of a
barbarous age, are fast disappearing before the advance of truth.
In concluding this paper
I think we may safely aver that the Shetlanders are a strong, healthy,
long-lived people, inferior neither physically, morally, nor
intellectually to any race on the face of the globe. Paltry and
unimportant as these *few rocks in the North Atlantic may appear, they
have not been created in vain by the All-wise Maker and Governor of the
Universe. Not to speak of their fish, their hosiery, and their ponies,
which are such important articles of political economy, they have
produced thousands and tens of thousands of our ablest and bravest
sailors, on whom so much of the honour and glory of this great nation
depends. Scandinavia was of old the nursery of great nations. A son of
the Earl of Orkney and Zetland left his island home a thousand years
ago, and founded the illustrious Anglo-Norman dynasty; and the people of
these isles at the present day are materially contributing to the spread
of the Scandinavian and Anglo-Saxon races over the whole world, the
accomplishment of which seems destined immediately to precede the time
when the knowledge of God shall “cover the earth as the waters cover the
channels of the sea.” |