LERWICK
The Harbour—The Town—Its
Situation—Arrangement of the Streets, &c.—Shops, &c. —Public
Buildings—Docks—New Town—Villas, &c.—Loch of Clickhemin—Sound.
PASSING the Knab we
describe a slight circuit, and find ourselves in the Sound of Bressay,
or in more modern language, harbour of Lerwick. This spacious and
commodious harbour, one of the finest in the kingdom, is nearly three
miles long, and from a mile to a mile and a half in breadth. Sheltered
on the one side by the mainland, and on the other by Bressay, it is
completely landlocked. It has thus two entries, a south and a north, the
former being the larger and safer. A small holm and some shallows,
situated north from the town of Lerwick, divide it into two unequal
portions, the southern again being of greatest practical utility. At
almost any spot good anchorage is to be obtained. Many a goodly ship,
and many a noble fleet, have its placid waters borne, from the days of
the piratical Norseman, down to our own times when the stately ironclad,
“La Reine Blanche,” took shelter, while the fair lilies of France were
being trodden in the dust by the black eagle of Prussia. It was in this
Bredeyiar Sound, as the Norwegians termed it, that the numerous fleet
under Haco, King of Norway, lay for several days, when that monarch was
on his fatal expedition against Scotland. In 1653 it harboured an
English fleet of ninety-four ships under Admirals Deans and Monk, and
two years afterwards another fleet of ninety-two sail, commanded by the
Earl of Sandwick. The immense Batavian fleets, of many hundred vessels,
that have often graced its waters, will be referred to hereafter.
Even Bressay Sound can
tell its rumours of wars, though happily they are of rather ancient
date. In the summer of 1640 four Dutch men-of-war were quietly awaiting
the return of the East Indian fleet in this harbour, when they were
suddenly surprised by a formidable flotilla of ten Spaniards. A deadly
conflict ensued. After a brave resistance, the weaker side was forced to
succumb. Two of the unfortunate Dutchmen were sunk on the Lerwick side
of the Sound ; a third escaping through the north entrance, was run
ashore and blown up by her crew, somewhere about the south coast of
Nesting, while the fourth was captured by the enemy. The destruction by
fire of large fleets of Dutch fishing-busses which this harbour
witnessed twice during last century will be mentioned hereafter.
We now come to Lerwick,
the most northerly town in the British Isles. It is built on the
mainland of Shetland, along the eastern shore of Bressay Sound. The site
has exactly the form of an amphitheatre, and thus offers great natural
advantages. Unfortunately the architects who designed the metropolis of
Thule have not availed themselves of these, for nothing can exceed the
irregularity with which the buildings are arranged. In many instances
they forcibly remind us of Gray’s description of Kendal. “They seem as
if they had been dancing a country-dance, and were out. They stand back
to back, corner to comer, some up hill, some down.” There is,
nevertheless, a method in this seeming confusion, for the houses are
arranged with reference to the main street, a narrow thoroughfare which
follows the sinuosities of the harbour, and the Hillhead, a broad and
regular road, which, as its name implies, runs along the top of the
hill, on whose eastern slope the town is built. Loosely speaking, the
shore at Commercial Street may be said to form the arc of a smaller, and
the Hillhead or High Street that of a larger, concentric circle.
Connecting these two arcs, in a radius-like manner, numerous lanes, more
or less steep, ascend the hill. Along these streets and lanes, which
vary much in width, the houses and other buildings are placed at
irregular intervals. The main street and principal lanes are well paved
all over with flagstones, these thoroughfares being too narrow to admit
of a causeway in the middle for carts and horses. Indeed, when Lerwick
was first built, vehicles were unknown in the island, and even Shetland
ponies seldom passed through the town. Many of the houses have their
gables towards the street, and those on the lower side of Commercial
Street, are either built on the seashore, or actually in the sea. Thus,
if the Crown asserts its still disputed right to all property below
high-water mark, Her Majesty will soon confiscate a large portion of the
most northerly town in her dominions. From various points along the
seashore, piers and jetties, of different lengths, project into the
harbour. Only one of these, Victoria Wharf, situated in the middle of
the town, is long enough to admit of vessels coming alongside for the
purpose of loading and unloading.1 As Victoria
Wharf can only admit vessels of comparatively small tonnage and light
draught of water, it is to be hoped arrangements may soon be made for
the construction of a pier, alongside of which vessels, of every size,
trading to the port may be.
Lerwick is a
comparatively modern town, as shown by some of the old charters which
describe the peninsula on which it is built as “the East Ness of Sound,
now called Lerwick.” It appears to have been built about the beginning
of the seventeenth century, and evidently owes its origin to Bressay
Sound. At that time this spacious bay was annually visited by not less
than two thousand Dutch busses. The circumstance that it was originally
built as a trading post for the Dutch fishing-vessels, during their
rendezvous in the Sound, together with the nature of the site, accounts
for its peculiar construction. It is said by travellers very much to
resemble some of the smaller seaport towns of the Netherlands. The
houses were built on the seashore, with their back doors opening towards
the harbour, evidently for the convenience of the Dutchmen, who could
thus easily land the contraband portion of their cargoes without much
fear of interruption from revenue officers. Most of the old houses were
provided with very ingenious places of concealment for smuggled goods;
and some of those which had unfortunately been built on the upper side
of the street had this disadvantage compensated for by means of a
subterranean passage, connecting them with the seashore. No feature of
this unique little town is more striking to the traveller than the
number of shops which line the main street. Nearly every building in
this thoroughfare contains such a place of business. Many of them are
very handsome, and would do credit to any city. The wares offered for
sale present every variety, “from a needle to an anchor.” Formerly
nearly everything could be bought at the same shop, but now each
merchant adheres pretty closely to his own department of trade. To the
tourist the most attractive place of business is that of the hosier,
whose shop presents a tempting display of the far-famed Shetland goods,
of every size, shape, pattern, and shade. The knitting of these articles
forms the employment of the female portion of the population, which, as
in other parts of Shetland, is greatly in excess of the male. On
purchasing hosiery the merchants generally pay the girls with goods, and
seldom with ready money. Hence most females of the lower orders dress in
a manner far above their station. The finery displayed by them on Sunday
is very gaudy, but generally in good taste.
The best view of Lerwick
is obtained from the harbour, from which it presents a highly
picturesque appearance, particularly by moonlight. Overhanging the town,
on the north, we have Fort Charlotte, which x very much resembles the
Castle of Edinburgh on a smaller scale ; and, flanking it, on the south,
stand the Educational Institute and Widows Asylum, two handsome
buildings, for both of which we are indebted to the munificence of a
distinguished Lerwegian, the late Arthur Anderson, Esq., chairman of the
Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company.
The public buildings
consist chiefly of the churches, all of which crown the heights over the
town. If the Lerwegians are not religious, it is not for want of
churches. They are supplied with no less than eight, viz., Established,
Free, Episcopalian, United Presbyterian, Congregational, Wesleyan
Methodist, Baptist, and Roman Catholic. All these denominations are
provided with churches, save the Roman Catholics, who worship in one of
the rooms in the priest’s house, in Commercial Street. The parish church
is a substantial building, with a Doric front of hewn stone, presenting,
externally, rather a ponderous appearance, owing to its flat roof, and
the want of a spire. Internally, however, it is as comfortable and
commodious as could be desired. It has lately been provided with an
organ. The Free Church is a neat modem erection, with an elegant Gothic
front, and is well fitted up internally. St Magnus’ Episcopal Church,
situated to the south of its last-mentioned rivals, is a handsome
building in the Early English Gothic style. Inside it is tastefully
decorated. The Wesleyans, finding their former place of worship too
small, have just erected a new chapel, as a memorial of Dr Adam Clark,
the founder of Methodism in Shetland. The site is a commanding one, and
the erection, both as regards size and architectural features, is such
as to reflect credit on all concerned. The other churches are plain
buildings, and have no architectural features entitling them to further
notice. The parish school, an excellent building lately erected, lies on
the western slope of the hill, a short distance from the town. Situated
along the main street the only public buildings are the Tolbooth, a
plain old-fashioned house, and the Commercial and Union Banks, elegant
erections placed in the very centre of the town, which they serve
greatly to ornament. Several large and handsome houses have been built
within the last few years towards the south of the town, which has
become decidedly the “ west end.” Two sets of spacious docks, with
quays, small harbours, shipbuilding yards, cooperages, forges,
sail-lofts, extensive stores, <fcc., are situated at Freefield and
Garthspool, which together form a small village, nearly half-a-mile to
the north of the town. The docks at Freefield, which are the more
extensive, were constructed, at great expense, by the late William Hay,
Esq., and those at Garthspool by the late William Mowat, Esq., of Garth.
Both of these were gentlemen of great enterprise and ability, of whom
their country, on which they have left their mark in many ways, may well
be proud. Freefield is used as the dockyard of the well-known firm of
Messrs Hay & Co., and Garthspool as that of its present proprietor,
Joseph Leask, Esq., who has very much improved it.
New Town.—Separated from
the Hillhead by a ravine, and facing the Borough Road (so called from
its forming the boundary of the borough), stands the U.P. Manse, a large
“land” of houses, similar to those so common in Edinburgh, and a few
neat villas and cottages, all of which have been erected since 1865, and
have received the name of the New Town.
It is built on feus from
the town parks. These feus became necessary in consequence of
over-crowding and insufficient house accommodation in the Old Town, and
were obtained after .rather a hot war of words, waged in the Shetland
Advertiser newspaper, whose existence extended from January 1862 to
March 1863. Several gentlemen’s residences are situated in the
neighbourhood of the town, each of which presents its own features of
interest, whether from situation, architecture, or surroundings.
The view from the summit
and western slope of the eminence on which Lerwick is built is bounded
by a range of hills, which, rising in the low Ness of Trebister (beyond
that of Sound, just mentioned), after attaining some height takes a
crescentic course, and, on approaching the sea to the north of Freefield,
slopes gradually away, so as to admit of the north road passing round
the base. This range is very much concentric, with the arcs of a greater
and lesser circle, already mentioned, as described by the shore and
hillhead. The Loch of Clickhemin is a fine sheet of water a mile to the
west of the town. On the west it is overhung by the high hill just
mentioned. On the north and south its banks are low, and on the east it
is separated from the sea merely by a beach, called the Air of
Clickhemin, over which the south highway road runs. Upon a small island
in the midst of this lake are placed the ruins of a Pictish Castle or
Burgh,.in a much better state of preservation than most buildings of
this kind in Shetland. The island communicates with the shore, by means
of a causeway of large stepping-stones. As the construction of this
burgh is very similar to others of the same class, we need not discuss
it here. In a south-westerly direction, and at a distance of a mile and
a half from Lerwick, is situated, at the foot of the same hill, the
ancient country village or toun of Sound. The inhabitants are very
primitive in their habits, and at the same time scrupulously honest and
moraL Most of them pique themselves on inhabiting the exact spot of
ground held by their ancestors for centuries, and look down upon the
Lerwegians, exclaiming—
“Sound was Sound when
Lerwick was none,
And Sound will be Sound when Lerwick is done.”
They are generally averse
to all changes and improvements, and, in matters of rural and domestic
economy, are very much in the condition of their remote forefathers.
They subsist chiefly by supplying Lerwick with milk and peats. Lately,
however, a fish-curing station has been opened in the neighbourhood,
which affords some of them profitable employment. Sound is the property
of Sir Arthur Nicolson, Baronet, one of whose seats, Grimista, lies on
the northern shore of Bressay Sound, about a mile from the town. |