FROM LERWICK NORTHWARDS TO
NESTING AND WHALSEY
Remarks on Shetland
Scenery in Autamn—North Entrance to Lerwick Harbour—Rova Head—“ Luggie’s
Knowe ”—Baa Green—Unicom Rock — Bothwell’s Shipwreck — Girlsta— Catfirth—Vassa—Isles
of Gletness—Mull of Eswick—Maiden Stack—Hou Stack—Bay of Nesting—Brough,
&c.—Dangerous Reefs—Neap—Hog Sound— Tragedy at Neap—Nesting Statistics—Whalsey
— Symbister — Manor House — Whalsey Sound — Its Islands — Manufacture of
Kelp — Parochial Statistics, &c.
BEFORE proceeding on onr
itinerary through the more distant parts of the archipelago, it may be
not inappropriate to offer another remark on the scenery. Nothing
contributes more to the unique character of the Shetland landscape than
the remarkable display of colours. These, of course, vary with the
season, but at no time are they more observable than in the early
autumn. It would require a well-skilled artist to describe the green and
yellow fields, the dark purple hills, the rocks tinted with every
variety of sombre hue, the curious alternations of bright light and deep
shade that diversify the undulating coast, and the azure sky with its
golden sunsets and rosy twilights. The sea is deep blue, as before; but
traverse it by night, and every stroke of your oar emits a bright gleam
as from liquid silver. Look over your boat's side into a shallow bay^
and see its finny denizens (probably small coal-fish) as they dash
through their native element impregnated with phosphorescent animalculse,
emit spark after spark, as from a galvanic battery.
On leaving Lerwick for
the farther north, we quit the harbonr through its “north mouth"
passing, on the right, Hogan, the busy fish-curing station of Messrs G.
Harrison <fe Son, a firm which has done much to develop the great Faroe
fishing trade. The north mouth of Bressay Sound, very unlike its “fellow
of the opposite side,” is rather narrow and shallow, in some parts
rocky, and has such a strong tideway passing through it, that, unless
with a very favourable wind, a sailing vessel cannot stem the current
The termination, on the north, of this long and winding passage is
marked by a low rounded point of conglomerate rock, termed Rova Head.
Bearing immediately over it, and about a mile to the westward, the hill
rises into an abrupt peak, called from a wizard who dwelt there in days
long gone by, “Luggie’s Knowe.” Like his pountrymen in modem days, “
Luggie ” drew his harvest from the sea; but unlike them, his calling
exposed him to none of the “dangers of the deep;” for tradition tells us
he dropped his line down through a hole in the knowe, and brought up his
fish ready cooked at some subterranean fire. Brand, the worthy
missionary of 1700, writes of this unusual mode of fishing in the
following characteristic terms:—“This was certainly done by the agency
of evil spirits, with whom he was in contact and covenant; but the
economy of the kingdom of darkness is very wonderful, and little known
to us.” So thought his contemporaries, for poor Luggie was ultimately
condemned for sorcery, and burnt on the Gallow Hill of Scalloway.
Looking northwards from
Rova Head towards Whalsey, which from this point bounds our view, we
have, on the left, a comparatively low coast, its hills and promontories
well clad with verdure; and in front the Baa Green, as the first portion
of the intervening stretch of sea is termed, interspersed with rocks.
SCALLOWAY CASTLE. ZETLAND.
Navigation in this
quarter should never be undertaken without the services of a
well-skilled pilot. On one notable occasion that functionary was
awanting; and let us see the result. After the battle of Langside, while
Mary Queen of Scots took refuge in England, her infamous consort,
Bothwell, sought shelter in his newly acquired dukedom of Orkney.
Closely pursued by Kirkcaldy of Grange, with a squadron of two ships, he
procured a pilot in Bressay Sound, and sailed northwards, directing his
steersman to keep as near as possible to a sunken rock, south of
Nesting. Kirkcaldy, ignorant of the coast, followed close in the enemy’s
wake, when lo and behold ! he fell into Both-well’s trap, and . had one
of his ships wrecked on the rock, which, after the unfortunate bark,
bears the name of “Unicorn” to this day.
Westward from the Unicorn
is the common entrance to three fine voes, which radiate, as it were,
from this point, and open up a considerable extent of country. The Voe
of Laxfirth, running north-westwards, has been already mentioned as
bounding, on the north, the valley of Tingwall. Girlsta, on the Voe of
Wad-bister, boasts of a large com mill (the second of the kind erected
in Shetland). It commands an inexhaustible supply of water, brought,
through a rapid descent, from an extensive loch close by. The antique
looking house of Catfirth, at the head of the Voe of that name, was
about seventy years ago used as a linen factory, the machinery being
driven by water brought by a canal from the Loch of Sandwater, some
distance off The canal burst its banks ; and whether from this cause or
not, the enterprise was abandoned. Another branch of Catfirth Voe,
running more to the east, leads to Vassa, a bonny green spot, formerly
of some importance as the residence of the bailie of the parish. All the
bays just mentioned afford a good anchorage, particularly that of
Catfirth. The county road passes near the head of each of them.
Emerging from Catfirth
Voe, and passing the pretty Isles of Gletness, we follow the bold and
extensive promontory of Eswick, trending away seawards; coming suddenly
upon a curious indentation in its iron-bound sides, where, overhanging
the fine sea-beach, stands the town of the same name. Facing the bluff
point of the Mull of Eswick, and immediately under it, the Maiden Stack
rises precipitately out of the sea. Some ruins crown its narrow but
lofty top. These are said at one time to have formed the abode of a fair
damsel, who was banished to this aerial prison in order to ensure
separation from some lover who was obnoxious to her relentless father.
The gallant Norseman, nothing daunted, scaled the cliffs, carried off
his fair prize, and left to posterity the name Maiden Stack. Opposite
it, and about a mile to seaward, is the huge Houstack, a very prominent
object all along this part of the [coast. Between the Mull of Eswick and
the Hog of Neap, three miles distant, stretches the open and exposed Bay
of Nesting. In a pretty nook on its southern shore, is the fertile and
picturesque town of Brough, a stronghold in very ancient times, as its
name indicates; but, two or three centuries ago, the seat of a powerful
and wealthy branch of the Sinclairs, called the Barons of Brough. Their
mansion has long since gone to ruins, and the foundations of their
handsome chapel can scarcely be traced in the kirkyard of Garth, in the
immediate neighbourhood. This edifice was embellished with the family
coat of arms and several devout inscriptions, one of which ran thus:—
“In earth nothing continueth, and man is but a shadow.” The history of
the Sinclairs has strikingly verified this motto. The Barons of Brough,
like their hearth and their altar, have long since vanished and gone;
while their broad lands have passed into other hands. The only existing
institution taking a title from that place is the Garths of Brough, a
very dangerous reef of rocks, lying about a mile north from the Moull
and directly in the way of coasters, who must shape their course so as
to shun the Garths on the one hand, and the Voders on the other. This
reef, situated more easterly, is generally covered by the sea, and is
therefore even more treacherous than the Garths. Between this Scylla and
Charybdis navigation is safe.
Marking the termination
of Nesting Bay, on the north, is the lofty headland of Neap, with the
minister’s residence on its summit—a more suitable site for a lighthouse
than a manse. A high and rocky islet, called the Hog, lies so near this
cape, that contiguity is readily mistaken for continuity. Nevertheless,
a six-oared boat—using the oars as poles—may push its way through the
deep chasm termed Hog Sound ; and probably by so doing cheat the strong
tide running outside the islet.
Neap was the scene of a
bloody tragedy which carries us back to the dark days of the Stewarts.
In the minister of Orphir in Orkney, Earl Patrick found a ready
coadjutor in his designs upon the udal lands. After the Earl was
arrested and sent to Dumbarton Castle, there to prepare for the
scaffold, popular fury of the hottest kind was kindled against every
instrument of his oppression. “ It was then that the parson of Orphir
took flight, pursued by the four Sinclairs of Orkney, who toiled after
him like blood-hounds for their prey. The wretched man fled to Shetland;
the avengers hunted him out—met him on the Noup of Nesting, and slew him
on the spot. One of the brothers imitated the tiger in his rage—he laid
open the breast of the slaughtered victim, tore out his heart, and with
a ferocity, from the bare mention of which the mind shudders, drank of
his heart’s blood. May the causes which gave rise to such scenes be "on
the face of the earth.”
The ancient “parochine”
of Nesting is by no means rich in modern statistics. In 1871 it
contained 868 inhabitants. No special branch of industry can it boast
of, and no important fishery is carried on from its shores. The parish
kirk is situated towards the north end of the district, while the
spiritual wants of its southern portions are to some extent supplied by
a Wesleyan and a Congregational chapel, to the latter of which only a
resident pastor is attached. An assembly school standing close to the
church supplies the educational wants of the northern portion, leaving
the southern comparatively neglected. Nearly the whole parish of Nesting
is the property of Mr Bruce of Symbister.
From Neap we advance
northwards and somewhat to the east, and soon reach the “Bonny Isle” of
Whalsey, as a popular native air terms it. Sandwick, well named from its
beautiful beach of white sand, first attracts our attention; and then
Symbister, with its fine bay, good harbour and landing-places, advanced
agriculture, and, to crown all, its splendid mansion adorning the top of
the hill. This building was erected between thirty and forty years ago
by the late Robert Bruce, Esq., of Symbister, the great-grandfather of
the present proprietor, at a cost of upwards of £30,000. The stone is a
pretty granite brought from Stavaness, a point on the Mainland nearly
opposite. Containing much mica and talc, it sparkles brilliantly when
exposed to sunshine. All the apartments, halls, lobbies, galleries,
staircases, courts, and offices of Symbister House are arranged in the
most palatial manner. It commands a magnificent view of the whole coast
from Lerwick to Unst. Near the shore are situated the business premises
of Messrs Hay & Co., Lerwick, who conduct the fishings in the island;
and the old manor house, now occupied by a gentleman who farms Symbister
and several adjacent isles, Opposite Whalsey, and between it and the
Mainland, is Linga, of considerable ' extent, and behind that three
smaller islands, all of which are used for grazing. Linga was formerly
peopled; and one of its last inhabitants was Mr Jamieson, afterwards of
Leith, father of Professor Jamieson, who so ably filled the chair of
Natural History in the University of Edinburgh for half a century.
Proceeding up Whalsey
Sound, and taking care that the strong tide which agitates its waters
does not carry us on the Skate, a large flat rock off Marrister, we pass
the neat manse and still neater church. This edifice, recently rebuilt,
stands on a point at Brough, a fertile and well-cultivated district in
the north-west of the island. The north and east of Whalsey display
hills and cliffs of gneiss, which present no features of interest.
If our journey is made by
night, particularly in the early autumn, our attention is arrested by
fires all along the coast. These proceed from the burning of sea-weed
for kelp, an important branch of industry, employing many females. Kelp,
so valuable during the great French wars, from the soda it contains, is
now important to the manufacturing chemist as yielding iodine and
bromine, so useful "both in medicine and the arts. During the spring and
summer of 1870, two women and three children in Whalsey together
realised about .£25 by the manufacture of kelp—the good women at the
same time attending to all their domestic and agricultural duties.
Almost the entire male population of the island is employed in the haaf
fishing— and very expert fishers the stalwart men of Whalsey are. The
island contains a population of nearly nine hundred souls. Until very
recently there was no school in this large district, and the only stated
supply of ordinances was a sermon from the minister of Nesting once a
month. Thanks to the praiseworthy efforts of the Established Church,
seconded by the generosity of the proprietor, matters have lately
undergone a great change for the better. A good school has been
provided; and the clergyman now sits as minister of the quoad sacra
Parish of Whalsey and Skerries, in the Presbytery, of Olnafirth. Than
the Established no other Church exists in Whalsey. The Wesleyans for
several years had a mission station on the island, but it was withdrawn
recently. |