OLNAFIRTH TO AITH
Travelling along the
land-locked Voes of Shetland.
EMERGING from Olnafirth
Voe, we pass the mouth of Gonfirth Voe, and steer southward towards that
of Aith, the last of the congeries of inlets entering from Swarback’s
Mine. The mouth of this fine loch, as it would be termed in the
Highlands, is pretty well closed in by Papa Little, an oval-shaped
island, once the abode of two or three families of men, but now the
habitation of many families of sheep. Aith signifies the vicinity of a
fertile soil; and, like all Scandinavian names of places, it is well
applied. The land on the western side of the Voe is comparatively flat
and very fertile ; and terminates in a pretty beach. On the eastern side
it is overhung by the steep hill of Scallafield, 916 feet above the
level of the sea, the highest peak of a ridge which extends from
Weisdale to Olnafirth. On the same side a tributary inlet termed East
Burrafirth runs for more than a mile into the land. Its name is also
expressive, for, on a holm, in its midst, stand the ruins of what was
once a burgh.
To the lover of aquatic
sports nothing could be more delightful than a sail through the
land-locked voes, say from Busta or Brae to Aith. If wind favours how
swiftly the skiff glides over the smooth waters, and the ten miles
voyage is soon accomplished. As the point of view changes, the hills,
and promontories, and isles on either side ever present themselves in
varying perspective, and disclose some new features of stem beauty. But
the steersman must look well to his duties, for a sudden squall may come
down from the hills at any moment, and place his bark in danger. This
inland travelling by water is one of the most pleasant features of
Shetland life, and the journeys must be not unlike those performed on
the rivers and lakes of North America. Suppose the good old days were
back again, when all the landholders of Zetland lived amongst their
people, and the laird of Westsandwick, leaving his goodly mansion, on
the shores of Lady Voe, West Yell, resolved to visit his brother
proprietor at Bigton, in Dunrossness. Entering his gallant bark he soon
winds his way through the islands and tideways of Yell Sound, and sails
up the river-lake Voe of Sulem for ten miles. Landing at North Brae, the
stalwart crew haul their boat across the level isthmus, and again launch
her in the Yoe of Busta. A ten miles journey is now performed in the
manner above described. Leaving his bark at Aith, and sending her home
again, in charge of the crew—and the old lairds never travelled by sea
without good crews—the worthy gentleman, accompanied probably by one
attendant, makes the best of his way on foot, or on pony-back, across
this wider and more rugged isthmus, to Bixter, on the shores of the voe
of that name. Here a new boat is obtained, and the aquatic journey
resumed. Descending the fine Voe of Bixter, and emerging from its mouth,
the little craft shapes her course through the Bay of Scalloway,
availing herself when possible of the shelter of its islands. Sailing up
the harbour of Scalloway, and down that fine stretch of land-encompassed
water termed Cliff Sound, she doubles the head of Ireland, and reaches
Bigton just as the last rays of the setting sun disappear behind St
Ninian’s Isle. A sixty miles’ journey has thus been accomplished,
through landlocked voes and bays and sounds, interrupted by only two
short portages. A. trip which shews the traveller such an extent of
country, and such a variety of scenery, with so little fatigue, is very
pleasant, but rather expensive. |