BRESSAY AND NOSS
East Coast of Bressay—Cave—Bard—“Giant’s
Leg”—Holm and Neup of Noss—The Cradle—Dr Copland—Farm of Noss— Dangers
of Noss Sound—Bressay again—Gar die—Maryfield —Parochial
Statistics—Slate Quarries.
AND now for a visit to
some of the “lions” in the vicinity of Lerwick. The Cave of Bressay and
the Cliffs of Noss amply repay a day's excursion. Steering southwards
through the Sound, and shaping our course along the Bressay shore, we
pass, in succession, the mansion of Gardie, the house of Maryfield, the
kirk, the manse, and the lighthouse, with various cottages and crofts
interspersed between these buildings of greater note. Doubling the point
of Kirkabister, and, if we are bold enough, sailing through a fine
natural archway nearly underneath the lighthouse, we pass the lofty Ord,
and direct our bark eastward to the root of the Bard. Here we find the
cave, its entrance guarded by a skerry,1 not much above high-water mark.
The entrance is a wonderfully symmetrical archway, pretty lofty, and
wide enough to admit several small boats abreast. Here the water is very
clear and deep; and the display of colours on the roof and walls
remarkable both for brilliancy and variety. Our advance into the cavern
is now attended with greater difficulty, as the passage becomes narrow
and takes a curved direction. Soon the narrows are passed, and we find
ourselves in a spacious hall. From its lofty ceiling hang numerous
stalactites, many of them assuming very fantastic shapes. Pilasters of
the same calcareous material have been formed on the walls. So great is
their hardness that it is difficult, even with the aid of the hammer and
chisel, to detach pieces. In this sea-paved hall reigns Egyptian
darkness, save when it is dispelled by the torch of the visitor. Here
the smallest noise, even the stroke of an oar, resounds like thunder.
Beyond the hall we can penetrate to a considerable distance, but the
inner reaches of the cavern become narrower and narrower. At length our
skiff }s arrested by a sea-beach, from which a faint streak of light is
to be discerned shining through a slit in the rock, a long way off.
Beyond this, no mortal man is pigmean enough to advance. On a shelf near
the mouth of this weird helyr, a native of the sister archipelago is
said to have hid from the pressgang; and hence, it is sometimes called
the Orkneyman’s Cave. Emerging from it, we for a few minutes steer
south-eastwards and reach the Bard, in which Bressay terminates on the
south. Here the most fantastic forms diversify the surface of the rocks.
Nature has been the sculptor, employing the elements to remove the soft
particles of which the cliffs are composed, while the harder remain. At
the extreme point of the Bard, a narrow but somewhat lofty arch displays
itself. The outer pier of this arch acts like a buttress to the
precipice, which forms the inner. This curious buttress-like pillar is
not inappropriately termed the Giant’s Leg. Tradition says that, ages
since, a certain giant, in leaping from Shetland to Orkney, succeeded in
getting one leg over, but left the other behind, and here it still
stands at the Bard of Bressay.
Advancing north-eastwards
for three or four miles, we come to the far-famed Holm of Noss. This is
a small islet one hundred and sixty feet high, flat and well clothed
with grass on the top, but precipitous on all sides. On one side, its
cliffs are lashed by the full fury of the North Sea; and on the other,
its base is washed by the conflicting currents which agitate the narrow
strait separating the Holm from the island of Noss. A little to the
north of the Holm is the Noup of Noss, a magnificent bluff precipice 577
feet high. All along the cliffs, but especially in those of the Holm and
Noup, innumerable sea-fowl (gulls, kittiwakes, guillemots, puffins, <fcc.)
have their nests. They build, for the most part, in curious rounded
depressions which Nature has scooped out of the rocks. In the breeding
season these stately cliffs present a very lively and interesting
appearance. All the way upward, from a few feet above the water to
within a corresponding distance from the top, they are garrisoned by
close phalanxes of birds of various hues, whose shrill music forms a
strange chorus to the deep-sounding sea. Fire a gun, and the air is
instantly darkened by a dense feathery cloud, which dashes out seaward,
expressing, in notes both harsh and loud, indignation against the
intruders on this vast and solitary aviary.
From the heights of Noss
a different view is obtained of the awful chasm between the island and
the Holm. This space, sixty-five feet wide, was, for a long time,
bridged over by a cradle or wooden box swung on two cables. By this
means, the eggs of the many gulls which build on the top of the islet
were removed, and sheep conveyed to and from its limited but rich
pasture. But Mr 'jfV’alker, the late tenant of the island, has, very
properly, caused this dangerous conveyance to be removed, lest its
continuance should lead to that which marked its origin—the sacrifice of
human life. The stakes supporting the cables, on which the cradle
travelled, were originally fixed on the Holm by a daring cragsman, who
scaled one of its beetling precipices. Not condescending to return by
the new route he had opened up, he insisted on going back as he had
come, and perished in the descent.
From its lofty Noup, the
island of Noss gradually slopes away to a flat peninsula, facing the
east side of Bressay. Here stands the old farmhouse, now occupied by a
shepherd. In this solitary but romantic abode, Dr Copland, of London, “
the most learned of modern physicians,” and author of the Dictionary of
Medicine, spent his childhood and youth. The doctor’s worthy father was
long tenant of the island. Near the farmhouse are the ruins of a small
chapel of ancient date.
Noss, which, with the
exception of the shepherd’s garden, is now entirely laid down to
pasture, is very fertile, yielding rich crops of grass. Together with
Maryfield, Bressay, this island is now used by the Marquis of
Londonderry for the purpose of breeding and rearing ponies to be
employed in his lordship’s coalpits in the north of England. The noble
Marquis is now making the first experiment in pony farming in Shetland
on a large scale. Mr Walker effected a great improvement by placing a
good stone wall round the precipitous part. At the narrowest point, Noss
Sound is only two hundred or three hundred yards wide, and about six
fathoms deep. The tide is therefore very strong. This circumstance,
combined with the rocky character of its wider portions, and the absence
of good anchorage, renders Noss Sound very dangerous, or even fatal, to
such ill-starred vessels as have accidentally mistaken it for Bressay
Sound.
Having safely crossed the
boisterous strait, in the yawl of a good ferryman, we pursue our way
westward across Bressay. Nothing of interest presents itself to the
traveller until he reaches the heights above the western shores of the
island, from which an extensive view is obtained, especially from their
highest peak, the Wart, a fine conical hill 712 feet high. The handsome
manor of Gardie, the residence of Miss
Cameron Mowat of Garth,
proprietor of the island, with its hot-house, and well-kept gardens and
lawns, is an object of much interest. Fanning, on the most approved
principles, may be observed at Maryfield. Bressay has been in temporal,
as well as eccesiastical affairs, under the judicious management of the
Rev. Zachary Macaulay Hamilton, D.D., the best evidence of whose
popularity is to be found in the fact that he is the only clergyman in
Shetland who can boast of an undivided parish. In 1871 Bressay contained
a population of 902. The island is five or six miles long, and two or
three broad. It has two excellent schools—the Parochial on the east, and
the Assembly on the west side.
Bressay'is chiefly
composed of sandstone. Its slate quarries, the principal of which is
situated at Aith, in the north end, are of some importance. Grey slate,
formerly much used in Shetland, is too heavy for the modem style of
housebuilding. The thicker portions of stone, however, are still in
considerable demand for paving purposes. Lerwick is paved with Bressay
flags. Bressay is rich in antiquities, among the most remarkable of
which may be mentioned the ruins of a famous old church at Beosetter,
and the now much more famous slab of stone, bearing on both sides
inscriptions ip the Ogham character, which was found at Culbinsburgh a
few years ago. This monument, probably the most perfect of the kind in
existence, is now deposited in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries,
Edinburgh, in whose Transactions it is well illustrated.
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