FAIR ISLE.
Naval Action—Shipwreck of
an Admiral of Spanish Armada— His return to Spain, &c.—Fishings,
&c.—Fair Isle skiffs— Beacons in ancient times—Earls Paul and
Ronald—Parochial statistics.
THE voyager in the North
Seas, having passed the Orcades, naturally falls into the sombre mood of
the poet, who describes the land whence he is bound as “ the naked,
melancholy isles of farthest Thule.” Fair Isle, the first island of the
archipelago, rather serves to maintain those sentiments of gloom and
solicitude; for, although there are spots in it, which, basking in the
summer sun, look blythe and bonnie enough, yet its very name is
associated with storm and shipwreck and desolation. Off its shores was
fought, in 1703, a naval action between the French and the Dutch. The
former mustered six ships of war, and the latter four. Victory declared
itself for the stronger fleet. The Dutch admiral’s ship was sunk, and
the remaining three contrived to escape.
But the Fair Isle is
associated with an event of far greater national importance. As
mentioned in another connection, it was here Admiral Juan Gomez di
Medina, after the “Invincible” Armada had been dispersed by the combined
artillery of the skies and the English fleet, was wrecked in 1588, when
endeavouring to return to Spain, by sailing round the west of the
British Isles. Their galleon was driven into a creek on the east side of
the island, and Juan Gomez, with two hundred men, effected a landing in
the boats with considerable difficulty. During his stay in Fair Isle,
the Spanish commander behaved most chivalrously, and ordered his men to
pay handsomely for all the provisions they required from the natives.
But the Spaniards tarried too long at the scene of their shipwreck,
apparently from apprehensions lest they should not be well received in
Shetland, which was under the sway of the Protestant King of Scotland,
who stood in the most friendly relations to Queen Elizabeth. The
dastardly way in which the barbarous Fair Islanders requited the
generosity of their distinguished visitor, when his men began to suffer
from famine, has been already mentioned, as illustrative of the low
state of morals at that period. All the meagre stock of provisions
failing, famine raged, and it became necessary, at whatever hazard, the
Spaniards should leave the Isle. A boat was, therefore, despatched to
Andrew Umphray, of Berrie, who is said at that time to have farmed the
Fair Isle, requesting his speedy assistance. This gentleman forthwith
despatched a vessel, which soon carried the foreigners away from the
scene of their sufferings. Attired in the splendid costtime of a Spanish
nobleman of that period, the admiral landed at Quendale, where he was
hospitably received by Malcolm Sinclair, laird of the place. In order to
ascertain if his haughty mien and gorgeous dress had sufficiently
impressed the simple islanders amongst whom he was thrown, the vain
Spaniard is said to have caused the interpreter to inquire if his new
host had ever seen a person of his rank before Whereupon the
sturdy Scottish Protestant replied, “Farcie in that face'; I have seen
many prettier men hanging [Farcie in Scotch signifies unrighteous] on
the Borough Muir.” Juan Gomez di Medina is said to have remained for
some time the guest of Malcolm Sinclair, while his followers encamped in
the neighbourhood of Quendale. Meantime Andrew Umphray was preparing a
vessel, which conveyed the party safely to Dunkirk, in France, calling,
however, at Anstruther, in Fifeshire, on its way southwards.
James Melville (nephew of
the more celebrated Andrew Melville) was, at that time, minister of
Anstruther. In his well-known Diary he gives a very interesting account
of the arrival of the Spanish admiral, and his shipwrecked officers and
crew, at that port. Juan Gomez he describes as “a very reverend man, of
big stature, and grave and stout countenance, grey-haired, and very
humble-like, who/*—at this interview with Melville—“ after much and very
low courtesy, bowing down with his face near the ground, and touching my
shoe with his hand, began his harangue in the Spanish tongue.” His
demeanour at Anstruther was certainly very different from that which he
is said to have displayed at Quendale. The respective distances of the
two places from the seat of government may be sufficient to account for
such a marked change.
It has for a very long
period been almost universally affirmed that the Spanish commander
shipwrecked on the Fair Isle was no less a personage than the Duke of
Medina Sidonia, commander-in-chief of the whole Armada. But there is
abundant documentary evidence, both in the British Museum and elsewhere,
to show that this is a mistake. The name of the commander-in-chief was
Alfonso Perez de Guzman, Duke of Medina Sidonia that of the officer
wrecked on the Fair Isle, Juan Gomez di Medina, admiral of a division
numbering about twenty ships. The Duke’s ship was the Santa Trini-dada;
that of Gomez the Gran Grifon.
The family of Andrew
Umphray has ever since been represented amongst the Shetland gentry; and
his worthy namesake is proprietor of Eeawick at the present day.
Fair Isle, which lies
about midway between Orkney and Shetland, being about twenty-five miles
distant from the nearest point of each archipelago, is about two miles
in length, and one in breadth. The island is chiefly valuable as a
fishing station. It is formed of sandstone, through a precipice of.
which rock runs a vein of copper. It has a small harbour in the south
end, and another in the north, the latter being by far the most secure.
The fish caught in greatest abundance is the saith or coal-fish, which
frequents the tideways around the island. Their capture is conducted by
hand-lines, from light and narrow skiffs, each carrying three men.
Nothing is more astonishing to the stranger than the dexterity with
which the natives handle their canoe-like skiffs, as they dash through
the tempestuous seas surrounding their rock-girt home. Each wave seems
destined to swallow her up, but after bending in the yielding boards, it
recedes, leaving the gallant little bark to speed on its way. In such
craft the daring islanders frequently follow ships for many miles over
the sea, for purposes of barter. Eggs, fish, milk, hosiery, sind other
products of the island, are exchanged for groceries and spirits, to the
mutual accommodation of both parties. In the halcyon days of the
contraband trade, no doubt many a valuable cargo was landed on the Fair
Isle. Again, in times much more remote, its position rendered it most
important as a signalling station. A beacon kindled on one of its
heights, and speedily followed by answering fires on every ward hill,
soon told the Scandinavians of Shetland on the north, and those of
Orkney on the south, that a fleet of hostile longships was approaching
their shores.
In the dark days of the
twelfth century, when Earl Paul held sway in Orkney and Zetland, his
rival, Earl Ronald, was bold enough to invade his dominions. His
formidable fleet was seen from the Fair Isle. Eric, the signalman,
hastened to kindle his warning beacon; but the faggots had been deluged
with water, by a treacherous assistant. No watchfire therefore
illuminated the dark peaks of Fair Isle; and Earl Ronald was not again
observed till he landed in Westray, Orkney ; soon after which he
succeeded in wresting the islands . from his rivaL Thus it would appear
signal fires were not always to be depended upon, nor were watchmen
above corruption.
The famed Fair Isle
hosiery need not here be referred to. The island affords very good
pasturage, but frequently the crops have been destroyed by sea blasts.
The population in 1861 was 380; but, in 1863, after a season of great
destitution, upwards of one hundred of the islanders emigrated to
America. In 1871 the Fair Isle contained 226 inhabitants. A day school,
as well as public worship on the Sabbath, were long conducted by a
teacher employed by the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge, but
recently an ordained missionary has been appointed to fulfil this double
function, by the Church of Scotland. In 1700, the island was united
parochially to the ministry of Dunrossness. In 1794, Fair Isle, Foula,
and Skerries were united, and a clergyman appointed to that scattered
ministry. The arrangement, however, was found inconvenient, and shortly
afterwards departed from, Fair Isle being again joined to Dunrossness.
The zealous Wesleyans have adherents even in this lonely isle. Their
minister at Dunrossness generally pays them a visit every summer.
Clergymen or preachers of any denomination are heartily welcomed by the
hospitable islanders, who listen most eagerly to their ministrations,
and generally exert their utmost ingenuity in endeavouring to detain
their reverend visitors as long as possible. Fair Isle was long the
property of Sinclair of Quendale, from which family it passed—as
tradition says, at a game of brag—to Stewart of Brough, Orkney. In 1866
it was sold, by the representative of that family, to John Bruce, Esq.,
of Sumburgh, Shetland—part of whose estate it now constitutes. But it is
now high time to leave the Fair Isle and all its interesting
associations.
Barkland Croft
A series aiming to give a virtual tour of the U.K.'s most remote,
inhabited island - Fair Isle. Join me, Rachel, as I guide you round the
sights and locations of the island that has been my home for the last
five years. I hope to share with you the stunning scenery of the isle
and a look at life here. |