FOULA—continued.
The Cragsman—Highest
Hill—The People—Churches and School —Traces of Norse Language—Scenery,
&c.
FOR a long period the
chief trade of Foula was in the feathers and eggs of wild fowl. The
daring cragsman descended to the scene of plunder by the aid of ropes.
If the distance of the breeding-place from the top of the cliff was
moderate, say from twelve to twenty fathoms, he fixed a rope to stakes,
driven into the ground, and descended by gradually lowering himself
down, by means of his hands and feet, with which he grasped the rope.
Having finished his work of destruction, he ascended by the same means,
either bringing up the dead birds strung to his belt, or attaching them
to the rope’s end, and hauling them up, after he had gained the top of
the cliff himself. If the distance the fowler desired to descend was
greater, say thirty or fifty fathoms, he had a rope fixed round his
waist, and was lowered down by his companions. This dangerous traffic is
now almost abandoned, and it is but seldom one of the islanders descends
the cliffs. It is said that in the olden times, when it was universal,
the Foula man used to say, “My yutcher (grandfather) guid before, my
father guid before, and I must expect to go over the Sneug too.”
The peak of the Sneug,
1369 feet above the sea-level, is the highest hill-top of Foula. From
its summit the neighbouring hills, which, from every other situation
look so high, appear quite insignificant. A most extensive view is
obtained; the whole west coast of Shetland stretches out before us, like
a continent of no mean dimensions, and several of the islands of Orkney
can be distinctly discerned.
The view from the summit
of the Foula clifls, grand as it is, is greatly excelled by that from
the water beneath them. The scene defies all description. Nothing is
more fitted to impress the spectator with the littleness of man, and the
greatness of God, displayed in creation, as he gazes upwards on these
stupendous cliffs, towering from the ocean, as it were, to the very
skies. There is nothing to enliven the majestic solitude of this
terrific wall of adamant, save the discordant screams of the countless
myriads of sea-fowl that inhabit every available spot along its giddy
pinnacles, and the great ocean for ever roaring at its base. Why the sea
has not made more inroads upon the west coast of Foula may be accounted
for by the circumstance that .the. water, even immediately under its
cliffs, attains the great depth of fourteen fathoms.
Than those of Foula a
better set of people does not exist in the isles of Shetland. They are
sober, industrious, hospitable, intelligent, and very attentive to the
ordinances of religion. Although the rapid tideways and high winds
prevent them from prosecuting the fishing with regularity, they are
nearly all in very comfortable circumstances. The extensive pastures of
the island yield good grass; and the sheep and cattle they sustain prove
a source of great profit to the islanders. Strange to say, the
population has, for the forty years, ending with 1863, ranged between
230 and 240. In 1861 it was 233. This stationary condition of the
population is due to the small number of births, for very few natives
ever leave the island. Many married couples in Foula have no children.
In this respect the people of Foula contrast very strikingly with those
of Fair Isle, who are exceedingly prolific. Again, while the people of
Foula are well-to-do, those of Fair Isle are very poor. Skin diseases,
so common in Fair Isle, are scarcely kno^n in Foula. Beyond the
circumstance that the men are rather short in stature, no evil effects
of intermarriage, so prevalent in Foula, are observable. The population
appears not now to be so stationary as during the previous generation,
for the census of 1871 shows an increase of twenty-four over that of
1861.
Nearly half the
population occupies the Hametoun, a district in the extreme south of the
island, where there are sixty-five acres of well-cultivated land. The
rest of the people live in the neighbourhood of Ham, or at the north
end.
The island is provided
with a Society School, a Parish Church, and a Congregational Chapel. The
teacher, on whom devolves a great many other offices, acts as reader in
the Kirk. The Chapel, to which most of the people belong, is placed
under the care of a regularly appointed pastor. The Free Church, which
also has a small number of members, has a catechist, who conducts
religious services. No feature in the religious life of the people of
Foula is more remarkable than their scrupulous observance of the
Sabbath. This is one of the evidences of improvement; for we are told
that during last century, it was the habit of their ancestors, every
Sunday, after the church was dismissed, to assemble for the purpose of
testing their strength and skill at putting the stone, and other
athletic exercises. While the young men were thus engaged, the old men
are said to have stood by to witness the contest, and entertain the
company by narrating their own feats of strength and daring when they
were young.
The Norse language
continued to be spoken here long after it had been forgotten elsewhere.
In the end of last century, a good many nouns from the mother tongue
were preserved, and also a few verses of old Scandinavian songs. There
is every reason to believe this is the island Agricola saw from the
northern shores of Orkney, when he exclaimed, “Despecta est et Thule.”
Foula probably signifies the fowl island, but it is curious it should
have such a close philological resemblance to Thule.
This St Kilda of the
Shetland archipelago is the sole property of Robert T. C. Scott, Esq.,
of Melby. The good people of Foula seem to look up to their worthy laird
with the devotion of an old Highland clan to its chief.
Nowhere could the lover
of nature spend a more pleasant summer week than in this lonely isle of
the sea. Whether rambling amongst its lofty hills, sailing round its
gigantic cliffs, musing by its rocky shore, or talking to its primitive
people, he can find much to call forth reflection of the most pleasing
and profitable kind.
“There is a pleasure in
the pathless woods;
There is a rapture on the lonely shore;
There is society where none intrudes,
By the deep sea, and music in its roar;
I love not man the less, but nature more,
From these our interviews, in which I steal
From all I mav be, or have been before,
To mingle with the universe, and feel
What I can ne’er express, yet cannot all conceal.”
—Byron.
Fair accommodation for
strangers can be had at the factor’s house at Ham. Messrs Garriock &
Co., Reawick, who have a store in the island, send a small sloop there
as occasion requires. Three months have, however, frequently elapsed
without a mail, and a gentleman resident at Walls, only twenty miles of£
used to remark that he had, at the same time, a correspondent in Foula
and one in China, and that he could often get an answer sooner from the
latter than the former. |