Sumburgh Roost—Fitful
Head—Quendale—Iron Mines—Quendale Bay—Fishing Stations—Fisheries—Sumburgh
Lighthouse— Jarlshoff—The Hall—Lord Robert Stewarts House—Battle on
Sumburgh Links—Gruitness—Voe— Accommodation.
ADVANCING northwards, and
beginning to encounter the strong currents and heavy billows of the
“Roost,” we feel ourselves approaching classic ground. The scenes of the
“ Pirate ” appear in view. On our left is the lofty precipice which gave
title to “Noma of the Fitful Head,” and, on the right the less towering,
but still stately cliff of Sumburgh Head, with a lighthouse perched upon
its summit Between these bold headlands is the capacious bay of Quendale,
opening towards the south. Some of its associations have been already
dwelt on. Others may be mentioned of even a more desolate character. At
the head of the bay, two centuries ago, was the snug little estate of
Sinclair of Brow, worth, even at that time, £200 a-year. It was soon
afterwards blown over with sand, and nothing now remains to mark its
site but a sandy desert, and “some small patches called outsets or
pendicles.” The well-cultivated farm of Quendale, and the bustling
fishing station of Garthsness, on the west, contrast favourably with the
sand and solitude of its northern and eastern shores. On the farm is a
large com. mill and the manor house, now unoccupied, as the proprietor,
Andrew J. Grierson, Esq. of Quendale, does not reside on his estate. The
summit of Fitful commands an extensive view of the islets, rocks,
headlands, hills, sounds, and bays of the west coast. It is composed of
clay slate, the lustre of which is somewhat pearly, when exposed to a
bright sunshine, and hence the Norsemen called it Fitful, or the White
Mountain. A large vein of iron mica runs through the Fitful Head. It has
never been 'wrought; but a bed of iron pyrites, at the extremity of
Garthsness, was carefully explored, and its contents subjected to every
form of chemical process, some eighty years ago, by a Dousterswivel from
London, who hoped to obtain large quantities of copper. Not existing in
it, this metal could not be extracted from the ore, and the labours of
the alchemist ended in the chief product they evolved—smoke.
Three unimportant grazing
isles partially close in the mouth of Quendale Bay. Although lying about
midway between the towering headlands of Fitful and Sumburgh, it is
properly bounded, on the west by Garthsness, and on the east by Scatness.
Both promontories, as if in contrast to their lofty neighbours, are
low-lying, fertile, and useful to man. Scatness, which stretches
farthest into the sea, is peopled almost to its very end. The shores of
the West Voe, which lies between it and Sumburgh Head, are valuable for
fishing stations; and thither men from many parts of Dunrossness resort
in the summer season.
Saith or grey fish has
hitherto been almost the only product of the fisheries here, and at
Garthsness, on Quendale Bay. The boats used were small bow-built “ Ness
yawls,’’ manned by three men each, and propelled chiefly by oars. But,
within the last few years, many white fish (ling, torsk, and cod) have
been landed at, both places; and it has been found necessary, to a great
extent, to supplant the yawls by ordinary six-oared sailing boats. The
fishermen are thus enabled to venture out further from land, where they
have a better prospect of obtaining white fish, which are much more
valuable than the grey.
The stately Pharos, which
tops the giddy heights of Sumbtirgh, and lights up the dark waters of
its tempestuous Roost, was erected by the Commissioners of Northern
Lighthouses, in 1820, under the superintendence of Mr Robert Stephenson,
the builder of the Bell Rock tower. This is the first lighthouse the
shores of Shetland ever saw. It stands 300 feet above the sea, and can
be seen, in clear weather, at a distance of at least twenty-five miles.
In thick weather the light was sometimes imperfectly seen by ships,
owing to its height above the sea-level, a defect which has probably
been remedied by the recent substitution for the dioptric of a more
powerful catoptric illuminating apparatus.
The lofty head of
Sumburgh, while terminating in an abrupt precipice towards the sea,
slopes away gradually, on the other side, towards a low neck of land, on
which stand the ruins of Jarlshoff, and very near them The Hall, the
castellated residence of John Bruce, Esq., youngter, of Sumburgh. This
building, which has recently been erected, is by far the prettiest
mansion in Shetland. It commands an extensive view, extending to Mousa
on the north-east, and Fair Isle on the south-west. Lord Robert Stewart
had a residence near Sumburgh, the ruins of which are still to be
traced. On the links of Sumburgh was fought, at a date not ascertained,
a battle between the men of Dunrossness, under one of the Sinclairs of
Brow, and a party of Highlanders from the island of Lewis. The • battle
was sanguinary. The Lewis men were completely routed, and none of them
is said to have returned home to tell the tale. Previous to this affray,
the Highlanders, pursuing an ancient feud against the Scandinavians,
were in the habit of visiting Shetland every summer, and returning home
after they had obtained a sufficiency of cattle or other plunder to
repay the voyage.
The low sandy tract of
ground, which connects Sumburgh with the rest of the mainland, is
indented, on the east, by a small inlet called Gruitness Voe. This is a
place of commerce, but good anchorage is to be obtained only with
certain directions of the wind. It would appear that merchandise is
nothing new here, nor good cheer either; for Sir Robert Sibbald, writing
in 1711, tells us that, “ On the south-east side of this Foe, and near
about the middle of it, is Gratness, or Greedy-Ness, where the Dundee
merchants have their booths, as also some taverxiers, who in the summer
time have their residence there, for selling of ale, beer, and brandie
to these merchants, and their customers, who resort thither.”
About three miles north
from Gruitness is the rocky creek of Voe, where the sub-marine telegraph
cable lands, and a haaf-fishing is carried on. The head of this inlet,
which is scarcely a mile long, forms a very convenient central point for
the tourist, who, having taken up his quartets at the comfortable little
inn at Boddam, may easily make excursions to all parts of Dunrossness.
If a lover of aquatic sports, he may readily gratify his tastes, either
on the five large lochs of Brow and Spiggie, or on the open sea; while
the presence of four churches and a good school in the neighbourhood,
and of a telegraph, a well-made road, and two shops, at the door of his
hostelry, is sufficient to remind the stranger that the Ultima Thule of
his sojourn is by no means a barbarous country. |