TO THE READER
Times have changed since our earlier British Novelists, when
they sought to make the incidents lie thick in their fictions, gave them the
form of a journey, and sent their heroes a travelling over England. The
one-half of “Tom Jones,” two-thirds of “Joseph Andrews,” not a few of the
most amusing Chapters in “Roderick Random” and “Launcelot Greaves,” and the
whole of “Humphrey Clinker,” are thrown into this form. They are works of
English travels; and the adventures with which they are enlivened arise by
the wayside.
It would be rather a difficult matter, in these later times,
to make a novel out of an English tour. The country, measured by days’
journeys, has grown nine-tenths smaller than it was in the times of Fielding
and Smollett. The law has become too strong for Captain Macheath the
highwayman, and the public too knowing for Mr. Jenkinson the swindler. The
journeyer by moonlight, who accidentally loses his “road, stumbles on no
“Hermit of the Hill,” wrapped up in a grotesque dress of skins; but merely
encounters, instead, some suspicious gamekeeper, taking his night-rounds
in behalf of the Squire’s pheasants. When mill-dams give way during the
rains, honest Mat Brambles do not discover, in consequence their affinity to
devoted Humphrey Clinkers: there is merely a half-hour’s stoppage of the
train, barren of incident, save that the male passengers get out to smoke,
while the ladies sit still. And as for the frequent tragedy of railway
collision accidents, it has but little of the classic about it, and is more
appropriately recorded in newspaper columns, struck off for the passing day,
than in pages of higher pretensions, written for to-morrow. England has
become a greatly less fertile field of adventure than when, according to
the Anglic Metropolis for 1690, the “weekly wagon of Richard Hamerslythe
carrier” formed the sole conveyance, for passengers who did not ride horses
of their own, between Brumegham and the capital.
But though the age of personal adventure has to a certainty
gone by, the age which has succeeded is scarcely less fertile in incident on
a larger scale, and of a greatly more remarkable character. It would seem as
if the same change which has abridged the area of the country had given
condensation to its history. We are not only travelling, but also, as a
people, living fast; and see revolutions which were formerly the slow work
of ages matured in a few brief seasons. Opinion, during the last twenty
years, has accomplished, though in a reverse order, the cycle of the two
previous centuries. From the Reformation to the Revolution,
the ecclesiastical reigned paramount in men’s minds: from the Revolution to
the breaking out of the first American war, — a quiet time in the main, —
governments managed their business much through the medium of individual
influence, little personal interests carried the day, and monarchs and
ministers bulked large in the forefront of the passing events : from the
first American war till the rise of Napoleon, the hot political delirium
raged wide among the masses, and even statesmen of the old school learned to
recognize the people as a power. Now, such, in effect, has been the cycle of
the last twenty years. The reign of George the Fourth was also that of
personal and party influence. With the accession of William the political
fever again broke out, and swept the country in a greatly more alterative
and irresistible form than at first. And now, here, in the times of
Victoria, are we scarce less decidedly enveloped in the still thickening
ecclesiastical element than our ancestors of the sixteenth century. If there
be less of personal adventure in the England of the present day than in that
of Queen Anne and the two first Georges, there is, as if to make amends,
greatly more of incident in the history of the masses. It has been remarked
by some students of the Apocalypse, that the course of the predicted events
at first moves slowly, as, one after one, six of the seven seals are opened
; that, on the opening of the seventh seal, the progress is so considerably
quickened that the seventh period proves as fertile in events, — represented
by the sounding of the seven trumpets, — as the foregoing six taken together
; and that, on the sounding of the seventh trumpet, so great is the further
acceleration, that there is an amount of incident condensed in this seventh
part of the seventh period, equal, as in the former case, to that of all the
previous six parts in one.
There are three cycles, it has been said, in the scheme, —
cycle within cycle ; the second comprised within a seventh portion of the
first, and the third within a seventh portion of the second. Be this as it
may, we may at least see something that exceedingly resembles it in that
actual economy of change and revolution manifested in English history for
the last two centuries. It would seem as if events, in their downward
course, had come under the influence of that law of gravitation through
which falling bodies increase in speed, as they descend, according to the
squares of the distances.
Though there may be little to encounter in such a state of
society, there must, of necessity, be a good deal to observe: the traveller
may have few incidents to relate, and yet many appearances to describe. He
finds himself in the circumstances of the mariner who sits listlessly in the
calm and sunshine of a northern summer and watches the ever-changing aspect
of some magnificent iceberg, as its sun-gilt pinnacles sharpen and
attenuate, and its deep fissures widen and extend, and the incessant rush of
the emancipated waters is heard to reecho from amid the green light of the
dim twilight caverns within. Society in England, in the present day, exists,
like the thawing iceberg, in a transition state, and presents its consequent
shiftings of aspect and changes of feature; and such is the peculiar degree
of sensitiveness at which the government of the country has arrived, —
partly, it would seem, from the fluctuating nature of the extended basis of
representation on which it now rests, — that, like some nervous
valetudinarian, open to every influence of climate and the weather, there is
scarce a change that can come over opinion, or affect the people in even
their purely physical concerns, which does not more or less fully index
itself in the statute-book. The autumn of 1845, in which I travelled over
England, was ungenial and lowering, and I saw wheaten fields deeply tinged
with brown, — an effect of the soaking rains, — and large tracts of diseased
potatoes. A season equally bad, however, twenty years ago would have failed
to influence the politics of the country. Its frequent storms might have
desolated the fruits of the earth, but they would have made no impression on
the Statutes at Large. But the storms of 1845 proved greatly more
influential. They were included in the cycle of rapid change, and
annihilated at once the Protectionist policy and party of the empire. And
amid the fermenting components of English society there may be detected
elements of revolution in their first causes, destined, apparently, to
exercise an influence on public affairs at least not less considerable than
the rains and tempests of the Autumn of Forty-Five. The growing
Tractarianism of the National Church threatens to work greater changes than
the bad potatoes ; and the semi-infidel liberalism of the country, fast
passing into an aggressive power, than the damaged corn.
The reader will find in the following pages, as from these
remarks be may be led to anticipate, scarce any personal anecdote or
adventure : they here and there record a brief dialogue by the way-side, or
in some humble lodging-house, and here and there a solitary stroll through a
wood, or a thoughtful lounge in a quarry; but there is considerably more of
eye and ear in them, — of things seen and heard, — than of aught else. They
index, however, not much of what he might be led equally to expect,—those
diagnostic symptoms impressed on the face of society, that indicate the
extensive changes, secular and ecclesiastical, which seem so peculiarly
characteristic of the time. The journey of which they form a record was
undertaken purely for purposes of relaxation, in that state of indifferent
health, and consequent languor, which an over-strain of the mental faculties
usually induces, and in which, like the sick animal that secludes itself
from the herd, man prefers walking apart from his kind, to seeking them out
in the bustle and turmoil of active life, there to note peculiarities of
aspect or character, like an adventurous artist taking sketches amid the
heat of a battle. They will, however, lead the reader who accompanies me in
my rambles considerably out of the usual route of the tourist, into
sequestered corners, associated with the rich literature of England, or amid
rocks and caverns, in which the geologist finds curious trace of the history
of the country as it existed during the long cycles of the bygone creations.
I trust I need scarce apologize to the general reader for my frequent
transitions from the actual state of things to those extinct states which
obtained in what is now England, during the geologic periods. The art, so
peculiar to the present age, of deciphering the ancient hieroglyphics
sculptured on the rocks of our country, is gradually extending from the few
to the many: it will be comparatively a common accomplishment half a
generation hence ; and when the hard names of the science shall have become
familiar enough no longer to obscure its poetry, it will be found that what
I have attempted to do will be done, proportionally to their measure of
ability, by travellers generally. In hazarding the prediction, I build on
the fact, that it is according to the intellectual nature of man to delight
in the metaphor and the simile, — in pictures of the past and dreams of the
future, — in short, in whatever introduces amid one set of figures palpable
to the senses another visible but to the imagination, and thus blends the
ideal with the actual, like some fanciful allegorist, sculptor, or painter,
who mixes up with his groups of real personages qualities and dispositions
embodied in human form,—angelic virtues with wings growing out of their
shoulders, and brutal vices furnished with tails and claws. And it is
impossible, such being the mental constitution of the species, to see the
events of other creations legibly engraved all around, as with an iron pen,
on the face of nature, without letting the mind loose to expatiate on those
historic periods to which the record so graphically refers. The geologist in
our own country feels himself in exactly the circumstances of the traveller
who journeys amid the deserts of Sinai, and sees the front of almost every
precipice roughened with antique inscriptions of which he has just
discovered the key,—inscriptions that transport him from the silence and
solitude of the present, to a darkly remote past, when the loneliness of the
wilderness was cheered by the white glitter of unnumbered tents, and the
breeze, as it murmured by, went laden with the cheerful hum of a great
people.
It may be judged, I am afraid, that to some of the localities
I devoted too much, and to some too little time, in proportion to the degree
of interest which attached to them. The Leasowes detained me considerably
longer than Stratford-on-Avon ; and I oftener refer to Shenstone than to
Shakspeare. It will, I trust, be found, however, that I was influenced in
such cases by no suspicious sympathy with the little and the mediocre ; and
that, if I preferred at times the less fertile to the richer and better
field, it has been simply, not because I failed to estimate their
comparative values, but because I found a positive though scanty harvest
awaiting me on the one, and on the other the originally luxuriant swathe cut
down and carried away, and but a vacant breadth of stubble left to the
belated gleaner. Besides, it is not in his character as a merely tasteful
versifier, but as a master in the art of developing the beauties of
landscape, that I have had occasion to refer to Shenstone. He is introduced
to the reader as the author of the Leasowes, — a work which cost him more
thought and labor than all his other compositions put together, and which
the general reader, who has to prosecute his travels by the fire-side, can
study but at second hand, — as it now exists in sketches such as mine, or as
it existed, at the death of its author, in the more elaborate description of
Dodsley. It is thus not to a minor poet that I have devoted a Chapter or
two, but to a fine rural poem, some two or three hundred acres in extent,
that cannot be printed, and that exists nowhere in duplicate.
It does matter considerably in some things that a man’s
cradle should have been rocked to the north of the Tweed ; and as I have
been at less pains to suppress in my writings the peculiarities of the Scot
and the Presbyterian than is perhaps common with my country folk and brother
Churchmen, the Englishman will detect much in these pages to remind him that
mine was rocked to the north of the Tweed very decidedly. I trust, however,
that if he deem me in the main a not ill-natured companion, he may feel
inclined to make as large allowances for the peculiar prejudices of my
training as he sees me making on most occasions for the peculiar prejudices
of his ; that he may forgive me my partialities to my own poor country, if
they do not greatly warp my judgment nor swallow up my love for my kind;
that he may tolerate my Presbyterianism, if he find it rendering a reason
for its preferences, and not very bigoted in its dislikes ; and, in short,
that we may part friends, not enemies, if he can conclude, without
over-straining his charity, that I have communicated fairly, and in no
invidious spirit, my First Impressions of England and its People.
CONTENTS
Chapter I.
Led to convert an intended Voyage to Orkney into a Journey to England.— Objects of the Journey.—Carter Fell.—The Border Line. — Well for England
it should have been so doggedly maintained by the weaker Country. —
Otterburn. — The Mountain Limestone in England, what it is not in Scotland,
a true Mountain Limestone. — Scenery changes as we enter the Coal Measures.
— Wretched Weather. — Newcastle.— Methodists. — Controversy on the
Atonement. — The Popular Mind in Scotland mainly developed by its Theology.
— Newcastle Museum ; rich in its Geology and its Antiquities; both branches
of one subject. — Geologic History of the Roman Invasion. — Durham
Cathedral. — The Monuments of Nature greatly more enduring than those of
Man. — thophyllum Fhingites. — The Spotted Tubers, and what they indicated.—
The Destiny of a Nation involved in the Growth of a minute Fungus.
Chapter II.
Weather still miserably bad; suited to betray the frequent Poverty of
English Landscape. — Gloomy Prospects of the Agriculturist. — Corn-Law
League. — York; a true Sacerdotal City. — Cathedral; noble Exterior j
Interior not less impressive; Congreve’s sublime Description. — Unpardonable
Solecism. — Procession. — Dean Cockbum ; Crusade against the Geologists. —
Cathedral Service unworthy of the Cathedral. — Walk on the City Ramparts. —
Flat Fertility of the surrounding Country. — The more interesting Passages
in the History of York supplied by the Makers.— Robinson Crusoe. — Jeanie
Deans. — Trial of Eugene Aram. — Aram’s real Character widely different from
that drawn by the Novelist.
Chapter III.
Quit York for Manchester. — A Character. — Quaker Lady. — Peculiar Feature
in the Husbandry of the Cloth District. — Leeds. — Simplicity manifested in
the Geologic Framework of English Scenery. — The Denuding Agencies almost
invariably the sole Architects of the Landscape. — Manchester;
characteristic Peculiarities ; the Irwell; Collegiate Church; light and
elegant Proportions of the Building; its grotesque Sculptures; these
indicative of the Scepticism of the Age in which they were produced. — St.
Bartholomew’s Day. — Sermon on Saints’ Day. — Timothy’s Grandmother. — The
Puseyite a High Churchman become earnest. — Passengers of a Sunday Evening
Train. — Sabbath Amusements not very conducive to Happiness. — The Economic
Value of the Sabbath ill understood by the Utilitarian. — Testimony of
History on the point.
Chapter IV.
Quit Manchester for Wolverhampton. — Scenery of the New Red Sandstone ;
apparent Repetition of Pattern. — The frequent Marshes of England ;
curiously represented in the National Literature; Influence on the National
Superstitions. — Wolverhampton. —Peculiar Aspect of the Dudley Coal-field ;
striking Passage in its History. — The Rise of Birmingham into a great
Manufacturing Town an Effect of the Development of its Mineral
Treasures.—Upper Ludlow Deposit; Aymestry Limestone ; both Deposits of
peculiar Interest to the Scotch Geologist. — The Lingula Lewisii and
Terebratula Wilsoni. — General Resemblance of the Silurian Fossils to those
of the Mountain Limestone. — First-born of the Vertebrata yet known. — Order
of Creation. — The Wren’s Nest. —Fossils of the Wenlock Limestone ; in a
State of beautiful Keeping. — Anecdote. — Asaphus Caudatus; common, it would
seem, to both the Silurian and Carboniferous Rocks. — Limestone Miners. —
Noble Gallery excavated in the Hill.
Chapter V.
Dudley; significant Marks of the_Mining Town. — Kindly Scotch Landlady. —
Temperance Coffee-house. — Little Samuel the Teetotaller. — Curious
Incident. — Anecdote. — The Resuscitated Spinet. — Forbearance of little
Samuel. — Dudley Museum ; singularly rich in Silurian Fossils. —
Megalichthys Hibberti. — Fossils from Mount Lebanon; very modern compared
with those of the Hill of Dudley. — Geology peculiarly fitted to
revolutionize one’s Ideas of Modern and Ancient. — Fossils of extreme
Antiquity furnished by a Canadian Township that had no name twenty years
ago. — Fossils from the Old Egyptian Desert found to be comparatively of
Yesterday.—Dudley Castle and Castle-hill.— Cromwell’s Mission. — Castle
finds a faithful Chronicler in an old Serving-maid. — Her Narrative. — Caves
and Fossils of the Castle-hill. — Extensive Excavations. — Superiority of
the Natural to the Artificial Cavern. — Fossils of the Scottish Grauwacke. —
Analogy between, the Female Lobster and the Trilobite.
Chapter VI.
Stourbridge. — Effect of Plutonic Convulsion on the surrounding Scenery. —
Hagley; Description in the "Seasons.” — Geology the true Anatomy of
Landscape. — Geologic Sketch of Hagley. — The Road to the Races. — The old
Stone-cutter. — Thomson’s Hollow. — His visits to Hagley. — Shenstone’s Urn.
— Peculiarities of Taste founded often on a Substratum of Personal
Character. — Illustration. — Rousseau. — Pope’s Haunt. — Lyttelton’s high
Admiration of the Genius of Pope. — Description. — Singularly extensive and
beautiful Landscape; drawn by Thomson. — Reflection. — Amazing Multiplicity
of the Prospect illus trative of a Peculiarity in the Descriptions of the
“Seasons.” — Addison’s Canon on Landscape ; corroborated by Shenstone.
Chapter VII.
Hagley Parish Church. — The Sepulchral Marbles of the Lytteltons. — Epitaph
on the Lady Lucy. — The Phrenological Doctrine of Hereditary Transmission;
unsupported by History, save in a way in which History can be made to
support anything. — Thomas Lord Lyttelton ; his Moral Character a strange
Contrast to that of his Father. — The Elder Lyttelton ; his Death-bed. —
Aberrations of the Younger Lord. — Strange Ghost Story; Curious Modes of
accounting for it. — Return to Stourbridge. — Late Drive. — Hales Owen.
Chapter VIII.
Abbotsford and the Leasowes.—The one place naturally suggestive of the
other. — Shenstone. — The Leasowes his most elaborate Composition. — The
English Squire and his Mill. — Hales Owen Abbey ; interesting, as the
Subject of one of Shenstone’s larger Poems.—The old anti-Popish Feeling of
England well exemplified by the Fact. — Its Origin and History. — Decline. —
Infidelity naturally favorable to the Resuscitation and Reproduction of
Popery. — The two Naileresses. — Cecilia and Delia. — Skeleton Description
of the Leasowes. — Poetic filling up. — The Spinster. — The Fountain.
Chapter IX.
Detour. — The Leasowes deteriorated wherever the Poet had built, and
improved wherever he had planted. — View from the Hanging Wood. — Stratagem
of the Island Screen. — Virgil’s Grave. — Mound of the Hales Owen and
Birmingham Canal; its sad Interference with Shenstone’s Poetic Description
of the Infancy of the Stour. — Vanished Cascade and Root-house.—
Somerville’s Urn.— “To all Friends round the Wrekin.”— River Scenery of the
Leasowes; their great Variety. — Peculiar Arts of the Poet; his Vistas, when
seen from the wrong end, Realizations of Hogarth’s Caricature. — Shenstone
the greatest of Landscape Gardeners. — Estimate of Johnson. — Goldsmith’s
History of the Leasowes ; their after History.
Chapter X.
Shenstone’s Verses.— The singular Unhappiness of his Paradise. — English
Cider. — Scotch and English Dwellings contrasted. — The Nailers of Hales
Owen ; their Politics a Century ago. — Competition of the Scotch Nailers;
unsuccessful, and why. — Samuel Salt, the Hales Owen Poet. — Village Church.
— Salt Works at Droitwich; their great Antiquity. — Appearance of the
Village. — Problem furnished by the Salt Deposits of England; various
Theories. — Rock Salt deemed by some a Volcanic Product; by others the
Deposition of an overcharged Sea; by yet others the Produce of vast Lagoons.
— Leland. — The Manufacture of Salt from Sea-water superseded, even in
Scotland, by the Rock Salt of England.
Chapter XI.
Walk to the Clent Hills. — Incident in a Fruit Shop. — St. Kenelm’s Chapel.
— Legend of St. Kenelm. — Ancient Village of Clent; its Appearance and
Character. — View from the Clent Hills. — Mr. Thomas Moss. — Geologic
Peculiarities of the Landscape; Illustration. — The Scotch Drift. —
Boulders; these transported by the Agency of Ice Floes. —Evidence of the
Former Existence of a broad Ocean Channel.—The Geography of the Geologist. —
Aspect of the Earth ever Changing. — Geography of the Palaeozoic Period; of
the Secondary; of the Tertiary. — Ocean the great Agent of Change and
Dilapidation.
Chapter XII.
Geological Coloring of the Landscape. — Close Proximity in this Neighborhood
of the various Geologic Systems. — The Oolite; its Medicinal Springs; how
formed. — Cheltenham. — Strathpefier. — The Saliferous System; its Organic
Remains and Foot-prints. — Record of Curious Passages in the History of the
Earlier Reptiles. — Salt Deposits. — Theory. — The Abstraction of Salt from
the Sea on a large Scale probably necessary to the continued Existence of
its Denizens. — Lower New Red Sandstone. — Great Geologic
Revolution.—Elevation of the Trap. — Hills of Clent; Era of the Elevation. —
Coal Measures ; their three Forests in the Neighborhood of Wolverhampton. —
Comparatively small Area of the Birmingham Coal-field. — Vast Coal-fields of
the United States. — Berkeley’s Prophecy. —Old Red Sandstone. —Silurian
System. — Blank.
Chapter XIII.
Birmingham; incessant Clamor of the Place. — Toy-shop of Britain ; Serious
Character of the Games in which its Toys are chiefly employed. — Museum. —
Liberality of the Scientific English. — Musical Genius of Birmingham. —
Theory. — Controversy with the Yorkers. — Anecdote. — The English Language
spoken very variously by the English; in most cases spoken very ill. —
English Type of Person. —Attend a Puseyite Chapel. — Puseyism a feeble
Imitation of Popery. — Popish Cathedral. — Popery the true Resting-place of
the Puseyite. — Sketch of the Rise and Progress of the Puseyite Principle;
its purposed Object not attained ; Hostility to Science.—English Funerals.
Chapter XIV.
Drive from Birmingham to Stratford rather tame. — Ancient Building in a
modern-looking Street; of rude and humble Appearance. — “The Immortal
Shakspeare born in this House.” — Description of the Interior. — The Walls
and Ceiling covered with Names. — Albums. — Shakspeare, Scott, Dickens;
greatly different in their Intellectual Stature, but yet all of one Family.
— Principle by which to take their Measure.— No Dramatist ever draws an
Intellect taller than his own. — Imitative Faculty.— The Reports of Dickens.
— Learning of Shakspeare. — New Place. — The Rev. Francis Gastrall. —
Stratford Church. — The Poet’s Grave; his Bust; far superior to the
idealized Representations. — The Avon. — The Jubilee, and Cowper’s
Description of it. — The true Hero Worship. — Quit Stratford for Olney. —
Get into bad Company by the way. — Gentlemen of the Fancy. — Adventure.
Chapter XV.
Cowper; his singular Magnanimity of Character; Argument furnished by his
latter Religious History against the Selfish Philosophy. — Valley of the
Ouse. — Approach to Olney. — Appearance of the Town. — Cowper’s House ;
Parlor; Garden. — Pippin-tree planted by the Poet. — Summer-house written
within and without. —John Tawell. — Delightful Old Woman. —
Weston-Underwood. — Thomas Scott’s House. — The Park of the Throckmortons. —
Walk described in “The Task.” — Wilderness. — Ancient Avenue. — Alcove;
Prospect which it commands, as drawn by Cowper. — Colonnade. — Rustic
Bridge. — Scene of the “Needless Alarm.” — The Milk Thistle.
Chapter XVI.
Yardley Oak; of immense Size and imposing Appearance. — Cowper’s Description
singularly illustrative of his complete Mastery over Language.— Peasant’s
Nest. — The Poet’s Vocation peculiarly one of Revolution. — The School of
Pope; supplanted in its unproductive Old Age by that of Cowper. — Cowper’s
Coadjutors in the Work. — Economy of Literary Revolution. — The old English
Yeoman. — Quit Olney. — Companions in the Journey. — Incident. — Newport
Pagnell. — Mr. Bull and the French Mystics. — Lady of the Fancy. — Champion
of all England. — Pugilism. — Anecdote.
Chapter XVII.
Cowper and the Geologists. — Geology in the Poet’s Days in a State of great
Immaturity. — Case different now. — Folly of committing the Bible to a False
Science. — Galileo. — Geologists at one in all their more important
Deductions; vast Antiquity of the Earth one of these. — State of the
Question. — Illustration. — Presumed Thickness of the Fossiliferous
Strata.—Peculiar Order of their Organic Contents; of their Fossil Fish in
particular, as ascertained by Agassiz. — The Geologic Races of Animals
entirely different from those which sheltered with Noah in the Ark.—Alleged
Discrepancy between Geologic Fact and the Mosaic Record not real. —
Inference based on the opening Verses of the Book of Genesis.—Parallel
Passage adduced to prove the Inference unsound. — The Supposition that
Fossils may have been created such examined: unworthy of the Divine Wisdom;
contrary to the Principles which regulate Human Belief; subversive of the
grand Argument founded on Design. — The profounder Theologians of the Day
not Anti-Geologists. — Geologic Fact in reality of a kind fitted to perform
important Work in the two Theologies, Natural and Revealed ; subversive of
the “Infinite-Series" Argument of the Atheist; subversive, too, of the
Objection drawn by Infidelity from an Astronomical Analogy. —
Counter-objection. — Illustration.
Chapter XVIII.
The Penny-a-mile Train and its Passengers. — Jonathan. — London by Night. —
St. Paul’s ; the City as seen from the Dome. —The Lord Mayor’s Coach. —
Westminster Abbey. — The Gothic Architecture a less exquisite Production of
the Human Mind than the Grecian. — Poets’ Corner. — The Mission of the
Poets. —The Tombs of the Kings. — The Monument of James Watt. — A humble
Coffee-house and its Frequenters.— The Woes of Genius in London. — Old 110,
Thames-street.— The Tower.—The Thames Tunnel. — Longings of the True
Londoner for Rural Life and the Country; their Influence on Literature.—The
British Museum; its splendid Collection of Fossil Remains. — Human Skeleton
of Guadaloupe. — The Egyptian Room. — Domesticities of the Ancient
Egyptians. — Cycle of Reproduction. — The Mummies.
Chapter XIX.
Harrow-on-the-Hill.— Descent through the Formations from the Tertiary to the
Coal Measures. — Journey of a Hundred and Twenty Miles Northwards identical,
geologically, with a journey of a Mile an4 a Quarter Downwards. — English
very unlike Scottish Landscape in its Geologic Framework. — Birmingham Fair.
— Credulity of the Rural English; striking Contrast which they furnish, in
this Respect, to their Countrymen of the Knowing Type. — The English Grades
of Intellectual Character of Immense Range; more in Extremes than those of
the Scotch. — Front Rank of British Intellect in which there stands no
Scotchman; probable Cause. —A Class of English, on the other Hand, greatly
lower than the Scotch ; naturally less Curious; acquire, in Consequence,
less of the Developing Pabulum. — The main Cause of the Difference to be
found, however, in the very dissimilar Religious Character of the two
Countries. — The Scot naturally less independent than the Englishman ;
strengthened, however, where his Character most needs Strength, by his
Religion. — The Independence of the Englishman subjected at the present Time
to two distinct Adverse Influences, — the Modern Poor Law and the
Tenant-at-will System. —Walsall. —Liverpool. — Sort of Lodging-houses in
which one is sure to meet many Dissenters.
Chapter XX.
Dissent a Mid-formation Organism in England. —-Church of Englandism strong
among the Upper and Lower Classes: its Peculiar Principle of Strength among
the Lower; among the Upper. — The Church of England one of the strongest
Institutions of the Country. — Puseyism, however, a Canker-worm at its Root;
Partial Success of the Principle. — The Type of English Dissent essentially
different from that of Scotland; the Causes of the Difference deep in the
Diverse Character of the two Peoples.—Insulated Character of the Englishman
productive of Independency. — Adhesive Character of the Scotch productive of
Presbyterianism.—Attempts to legislate for the Scotch in Church Matters on
an English Principle always unfortunate.—Erastianism; essentially a
different thing to the English Churchman from what it is to the Scot. —
Reason why. — Independent Scotch Congregation in a Rural District. — Rarely
well based; and why. — Conclusion. |