Stourbridge. — Effect of Plutonic Convulsion on the surrounding Scenery.—
Hagley; Description in the “Seasons.” — Geology the true Anatomy of
Landscape. — Geologic Sketch of Hagley. — The Road to the Races.— The old
Stone-cutter. — Thomson’s Hollow. — His visits to Hagley. —Shenstone’s Urn.
— Peculiarities of Taste founded often on a Substratum of Personal
Character. — Illustration. — Rousseau. — Pope’s Haunt. — Lyttelton’s high
Admiration of the Genius of Pope. — Description. — Singularly extensive and
beautiful Landscape ; drawn by Thomson. — Reflection. — Amazing Multiplicity
of the Prospect illustrative of a Peculiarity in the Descriptions of the
“Seasons.” — Addison’s Canon on Landscape ; corroborated by Shenstone.
I left Dudley by the morning coach for Stourbridge, and
arrived, all unwittingly, during the bustle of its season of periodic
license, — the yearly races. Stourbridge is merely a smaller Wolverhampton,
— built on the same lower deposit of the New Red Sandstone, of the same sort
of red brick, and roofed and floored with the same sort of red tiles. The
surrounding country is, however, more pleasingly varied by hill and valley.
Plutonic convulsion from beneath has given to the flat incoherent formation
a diversity of surface not its own; and we see it tempested into waves, over
the unseen trappean masses, like ocean over the back of some huge
sea-monster. In passing on to the south and west, one finds bolder and still
bolder inequalities of surface; the hills rise higher, and are more richly
wooded, until at length, little more than three miles from Stourbridge, in a
locality where the disturbing rock has broken through, and forms a chain of
picturesque trap eminences, there may be seen some of at once the finest and
most celebrated scenery in England. Certainly for no scenery either at home
or abroad, has the Muse done more. Who, acquainted with the poetry of the
last century, has not heard of Hagley, the “British Tempe,” so pleasingly
sung by Thomson in his “Seasons,” and so intimately associated, in the verse
of Pope, Shenstone, and Hammond, with the Lord Lyttelton of English
literature? It was to walk over Hagley that I had now turned aside
half-a-day’s journey out of my purposed route. Rather more from accident
than choice, there were no poets with whom I had formed so early an
acquaintance as with the English poets who flourished in the times of Queen
Anne and the first two Georges. I had come to be scarce less familiar with
Hagley and the Leasowes,' in consequence, than Reuben Butler, when engaged
in mismanaging his grandmother’s farm, with the agriculture of the
“Georgies;” and here was my first opportunity, after the years of half a
lifetime had come and gone, of comparing the realities as they now exist,
with the early conceptions I had formed of them. My ideas of Hagley had been
derived chiefly from Thomson, with whose descriptions, though now
considerably less before the reading public than they have been, most of my
readers must be in some degree acquainted.
“The love of Nature works,
And warms the bosom; till at last, sublimed
To rapture and enthusiastic heat,
We feel the present Deity, and taste
The joy of God to see a happy world!
These are the sacred feelings of thy heart,
0 Lyttelton, the friend! Thy passions thus
And meditations vary, as at large,
Courting the Muse, through Hagley Park thou strayest,
The British Tempe! There along the dale,
With woods o’erhung, and shagged with mossy rocks,
Where on each hand the gushing waters play,
And down the rough cascade white dashing fall,
Or gleam in lengthened vista through the trees,
You silent steal, or sit beneath the shade
Of solemn oaks that tuft the swelling mounts,
Thrown graceful round by Nature’s careless hand,
And pensive listen to the various voice
Of rural peace, — the herds, the flocks, the birds.
The hollow whispering breeze, the plaint of rills,
That, purling down amid the twisted roots
Which creep around, their dewy murmurs shake
On the soothed ear.”
In all the various descriptions of Hagley and the Leasowes
which I have yet seen, however elaborate and well-written, I have found such
a want of leading outlines, that I could never form a distinct conception of
either place as a whole. The writer—whether a Thomson or a Dodsley —
introduced me to shaded walks and open lawns, swelling eminences and
sequestered hollows, wooded recesses with their monumental urns, and green
hill-tops with their crowning obelisks; but, though the details were
picturesquely given, I have always missed distinct lines of circumvallation
to separate and characterize from the surrounding country the definite
locality in which they were included. A minute anatomical acquaintance with
the bones and muscles is deemed essential to the painter who grapples with
the difficulties of the human figure. Perhaps, when the geological
vocabulary shall have become better incorporated than at present with the
language of our common literature, a similar acquaintance with the stony
science will be found scarce less necessary to the writer who describes
natural scenery. Geology forms the true anatomy — the genuine osteology—of
landscape ; and a correct representation of the geological skeleton of a
locality will be yet regarded, I doubt not, as the true mode of imparting
adequate ideas of its characteristic outlines. The osteology of Hagley, if I
may so speak, it is easily definable. On the southern shore of the Dudley
coal-basin, and about two miles from its edge, there rises in the New Red
Sandstone a range of trap hills about seven miles in length, known as the
Clent Hills, which vary in height from six to eight hundred feet over the
level of the sea. They lie parallel, in their general direction, to the
Silurian range, already described as rising, like a chain of islands, amid
the coal; but, though parallel, they are, like the sides of the parallel
ruler of the geometrician when fully stretched, not opposite ; the
southernmost hill of the Silurian range lying scarce so far to the south as
the northernmost hill of the trap range. The New Red Sandstone, out of which
the latter arises, forms a rich, slightly undulating country, reticulated by
many a green lane and luxuriant hedge-row; the hills themselves are deeply
scoped by hollow dells, furrowed by shaggy ravines, and roughened by
confluent eminences; and on the southwestern slopes of one of the finest and
most variegated of the range, half on the comparatively level red sandstone,
half on the steep-sided billowy trap, lie the grounds of Hagley. Let the
Edinburgh reader imagine such a trap hill as that which rises on the
north-east between Arthur’s Seat and the sea, tripled or quadrupled in its
extent of base, hollowed by dells and ravines of considerable depth, covered
by a soil capable of sustaining the noblest trees, mottled over with votive
urns, temples, and obelisks, and traversed by many a winding walk, skilfully
designed to lay open every beauty of the place, and he will have no very
inadequate idea of the British Tempe sung by Thomson. We find its loveliness
compounded of two simple geologic elements,—that abrupt and variegated
picturesqueness for which the trap rocks are so famous, and which may
be seen so strikingly illustrated in the neighborhood of Edinburgh; and that
soft-lined and level beauty, — an exquisite component in landscape when it
does not stand too much alone, — so characteristic, in many localities, of
the Lower New Red Sandstone formation.
I was fortunate in a clear, pleasant day, in which a dappled sky over head
threw an agreeable mottling of light and shadow on the green earth below.
The road to Hagley was also that to the races, and so there were many
passengers. There were carts and wagons rumbling forward, crowded with eager
ruddy faces of the round Saxon type; and gigs and carriages in which the
faces seemed somewhat less eager, and were certainly less ruddy and round.
There were numerous parties, too, hurrying afoot: mechanics from the nearer
towns, with pale unsunned complexions, that reminded one of the colorless
vegetation which springs up in vaults and cellars; stout, jovial ploughmen,
redolent, in look and form, of the open sky and the fresh air; bevies of
young girls in gypsy bonnets, full of an exuberant merriment, that flowed
out in laughter as they went; and bands of brown Irish reapers, thrown out
of their calculations by the backward harvest, with their idle hooks slung
on their shoulders, and fluttering in rags in a country in which one saw no
rags but their own. And then there came, in long procession, the boys of a
free-school, headed by their masters; and then the girls of another
free-school, with their mistresses by their side; but the boys and girls
were bound, I was told, not for the races, but for a pleasant recess among
the Clent Hills, famous for its great abundance of nuts and blackberries, in
which they were permitted to spend once a-year, during the season of general
license, a compensatory holiday. To the right of the road, for mile beyond
mile, field succeeds field, each sheltered by its own rows of trees, stuck
into broad wasteful hedges, and which, as they seem crowded together in the
distance, gave to the remote landscape the character of a forest.
On the left, the ground rises picturesque and high, and richly wooded,
forming the first beginnings of the Clent Hills; and I could already see
before me, where the sky and the hill met, the tufted vegetation and pointed
obelisk of Hagley.
I baited at Hagley village to take a glass of cider, which
the warmth of the day and the dustiness of the road rendered exceedingly
grateful; and entered into conversation with an old gray-headed man, of
massive frame and venerable countenance, who was engaged by the wayside in
sawing into slabs a large block of New Red Sandstone. The process, though I
had hewn, as I told him, a great many stones in Scotland, was new to me; and
so I had not a few questions to ask regarding it, which he answered with
patient civility. The block on which he was operating measured about six
feet in length by four in breadth, and was from eighteen to twenty inches in
thickness; and he was cutting it by three draughts, parallel to its largest
plane, into four slabs. Each draught, he said, would employ him about four
days; and the formation of the slabs, each containing a superficies of about
twenty-four feet, at least a fortnight. He purposed fashioning them into
four tombstones. Nearly half his time was occupied, he reckoned, in sawing,
— rather hard work for an old man; and his general employment consisted
chiefly in fashioning the soft red sandstone into door-pieces, and
window-soles, and lintels, which, in the better brick-houses in this
locality, are usually of stone, tastefully carved. His saw was the common
toothless saw of the marble-cutter, fixed in a heavy wooden frame, and
suspended by a rope from a projecting beam; and the process of working
consisted simply in swinging it in the line of the draught. I would have no
difficulty, he informed me, in getting admission to the Lyttelton grounds :
I had but to walk up to the gardener’s lodge, and secure the services of one
of the under gardeners; and, under his surveillance, I might wander over the
place as long as I pleased. At one time, he said, people might enter the
park when they willed, without guide or guard; but the public, left to its
own discretion, had behaved remarkably ill: it had thrown down the urns, and
chipped the obelisks, and scrabbled worse than nonsense on the columns and
the trees ; and so it had to be set under a keeper, to insure better
behavior.
I succeeded in securing the guidance of one of the gardeners;
and passing with him through part of the garden, and a small but well-kept
greenhouse, we emerged into the park, and began to ascend the hill by a
narrow inartificial path, that winds, in alternate sunshine and shadow, as
the trees approach or recede, through the rich moss of the lawn. Half way up
the ascent, where the hill-side is indented by a deep, irregularly
semi-circular depression, open and grassy in the bottom and sides, but
thickly garnished along the rim with noble trees, there is a semi-octagonal
temple, dedicated to the genius of Thomson, — “a sublime poet,” says the
inscription, “and a good man,” who greatly loved, when living, this hollow
retreat. I looked with no little interest on the scenery that had satisfied
so great a master of landscape; and thought, though it might be but fancy,
that I succeeded in detecting the secret of his admiration; and that the
specialties of his taste in the case rested, as they not unfrequently do in
such cases, on a substratum of personal character. The green hill spreads
out its mossy arms around, like the arms of a well-padded easy-chair of
enormous proportions, imparting, from the complete seclusion and shelter
which it affords, luxurious ideas of personal security and ease; while the
open front permits the eye to expatiate on an expansive and lovely
landscape. We see the ground immediately in front occupied by an uneven sea
of tree-tops, chiefly oaks of noble size, that rise, at various levels, on
the lower slopes of the park. The clear sunshine imparted to them this day
exquisite variegations of fleecy light and shadow. They formed a billowy
ocean of green, that seemed as if wrought in floss silk. Far beyond — for
the nearer fields of the level country are hidden by the oaks — lies a blue
labyrinth of hedge-rows, stuck over with trees, and so crowded together in
the distance, that they present, as has already been said, a forest-like
appearance; while, still further beyond, there stretches along the horizon a
continuous purple screen, composed of the distant highlands of Cambria.
Such is the landscape which Thomson loved. And here he used
to saunter, the laziest and best-natured of mortal men, with an imagination
full of many-colored conceptions, by far the larger part of them never to be
realized, and a quiet eye, that took in without effort, and stamped on the
memory, every meteoric effect of a changeful climate, which threw its tints
of gloom or of gladness over the diversified prospect. The images sunk into
the quiescent mind as the silent shower sinks into the crannies and fissures
of the soil, to come gushing out, at some future day, in those springs of
poetry which so sparkle in the “ Seasons,” or that glide in such quiet yet
lustrous beauty through that most finished of English poems, the “ Castle of
Indolence.” Never before or since was there a man of genius wrought out of
such mild and sluggish elements as the bard of the “ Seasons.” A listless
man was James Thomson; kindly-hearted ; much loved by all his friends;
little given to think of himself; who “loathed much to write, ne cared to
repeat.” And to Hagley he used to come, as Shenstone tells us, in “a hired
chaise, drawn by two horses ranged lengthwise,” to lie abed till long past
mid-day, because he had “nae motive ” to rise; and to browse in the gardens
on the sunny side of the peaches, with his hands stuck in his pockets. He
was hourly expected at Hagley on one of his many visits, when the
intelligence came, instead, of his death. With all his amazing inertness, he
must have been a lovable man, — an essentially different sort of person from
either of his two poetical Scotch acquaintances, Mallet or Armstrong. Quin
wept for him no feigned tears on the boards of the theatre; poor Collins, a
person of warm and genial affections, had gone to live beside him at
Richmond, but on his death quitted the place forever; even Shenstone, whose
nature it was to think much and often of himself, felt life grow darker at
his departure, and, true to his hobby, commemorated him in an urn, on the
principle on which the late Lord Buchan was so solicitous to bury Sir Walter
Scott. “He was to have been at Hagley this week,” we find Shenstone saying,
in a letter dated from the Leasowes, in which he records his death, "and
then I should probably have seen him here. As it is, I will erect an urn in
Virgil’s Grove to his memory. I was really as much shocked to hear of his
death as if I had known and loved him for a number of years.the
memory of a people, in the nine lines of which it consists, than in any
single poem of ten times the length his Lordship ever produced.
“A hard here dwelt, more fat than hard heseems,
Who, void of envy, guile, and lust of gain,
On virtue still, and nature’s pleasing themes,
Poured forth his unpremeditated strain;
The world forsaking with a calm disdain,
Here laughed he careless in his easy seat;
Here quaffed, encircled with the joyous train, —
Oft moralizing sage: his ditty sweet
He loathed much to write, ne cared to repeat.”
God knows, I lean on a very few friends, and if they drop me, I become a
wretched misanthrope.”
Passing upwards from Thomson’s hollow, we reach a second and more secluded
depression in the hill-side, associated with the memory of Shenstone; and
see at the head of a solitary ravine a white pedestal, bearing an urn. The
trees droop their branches so thickly around it, that, when the eye first
detects it in the shade, it seems a retreating figure, wrapped up in a
winding-sheet. The inscription is eulogistic of the poet’s character and
genius. “In his verses,” it tells us, with a quiet elegance, in which we at
once recognize the hand of Lyttelton, “were all the natural graces, and in
his manners all the amiable simplicity of pastoral poetry, with the sweet
tenderness of the elegiac.” This secluded ravine seems scarce less
characteristic of the author of the “Ode to Rural Elegance,” and the
“Pastoral Ballad,” than the opener hollow below, of the poet of the
“Seasons.” There is no great expansion of view, of which, indeed, Shenstone
was no admirer. “Prospects,” he says, in his “Canqns on Landscape,” “should
never take in the blue hills so remotely that they be not distinguishable
from clouds; yet this mere extent is what the vulgar value.” Thomson,
however, though not quite one of the vulgar, valued it too. As seen from his
chosen recess, the blue of the distant hills seems melting into the blue of
the sky ; or, as he himself better describes the dim outline,
“The Cambrian mountains, like far clouds,
That skirt the blue horizon, dusky rise.”
It is curious enough to find two men, both remarkable for their nice sense
of the beautiful in natural scenery, at issue on so important a point; but
the diversity of their tastes indicates, one may venture to surmise, not
only the opposite character of their genius, but of their dispositions also.
Shenstone was naturally an egotist, and, like Rousseau, scarce ever
contemplated a landscape without some tacit reference to the space occupied
in it by himself. “An air of greatness,” remarks the infirm philosopher of
Geneva, “has always something melancholy in it: it leads us to consider the
wretchedness of those who affect it. In the midst of extended grass-plats
and fine walks, the little individual does not grow greater; a tree of
twenty feet high will shelter him as well as one of sixty; he never occupies
a space of more than three feet; and in the midst of his immense
possessions, is lost like a poor worm.” Alas! it was but a poor worm, ever
brooding over its own mean dimensions, — ever thinking of the little entity
self, and jealous, in its egotism, of even the greatness of nature, — that
could have moralized in a strain so unwholesome. Thomson, the least
egotistic of all poets, had no such jealousy in his composition. Instead of
feeling himself lost in any save vignette landscapes, it was his delight,
wholly forgetful of self and its minute measurements, to make landscapes
even larger than the life, — to become all eye, — and, by adding one long
reach of the vision to another, to take in a kingdom at a glance. There are
few things finer in English poetry than the description in which, on this
principle, he lays all Scotland at once upon the canvas.
“Here a while the Muse,
High hovering o’er the broad cerulean scene,
Sees Caledonia in romantic view;
Her airy mountains, from the waving main
Invested with a keen diffusive sky,
Breathing the soul acute; her forests huge,
Incult, robust, and tall, by Nature’s hand
Planted of old; her azure lakes between,
Poured out extensive, and her watery wealth
Full; winding deep and green her fertile vales;
With many a cool translucent brimming flood
Washed lovely, from the Tweed (pure parent stream,
Whose pastoral hanks first heard my Doric reed,
With sylvan Jed, thy tributary brook),
To where the north’s inflated tempest foams
O’er Orca’s or Betubium’s highest peak.”
Shenstone’s recess, true to his character, excludes, as I
have said, the distant landscape. It is, however, an exceedingly pleasing,
though somewhat gloomy spot, shut up on every side by the encircling hills,
— here feathered with wood, there projecting its soft undulating line of
green against the blue sky; while, occupying the bottom of the hollow, there
is a small sheltered lake, with a row of delicate lines, that dip their
pendent branches in the water.
Yet a little further on, we descend into an opener and more varied
inflection in the hilly region of Hagley, which is said to have been as
favorite a haunt of Pope as the two others of Thomson and Shenstone, and in
which an elaborately-carved urn and pedestal records Lyttelton’s estimate of
his powers as a writer, and his aims as a moralist: “the sweetest and most
elegant,” says the inscription, “of English poets; the severest chastiser of
vice, and the most persuasive teacher of wisdom.” Lyttelton and Pope seem to
have formed mutually high estimates of each other’s powers and character. In
the “Satires,” we find three several compliments paid to the “young
Lyttelton,”
“Still true to virtue, and as warm as true.”
And when, in the House of Commons, one of Sir Robert Walpole’s supporters
accused the rising statesman of being the facile associate of an “unjust and
licentious lampooner,” — for, as Sir Robert’s administration was corrupt and
the satirist severe, such was Pope’s character in the estimate of the
ministerial majority, — he rose indignantly to say, “that he deemed
it an honor to be received into the familiarity of so great a
poet.” But the titled paid a still higher, though perhaps undesigned
compliment, to the untitled author, by making his own poetry the very echo
of his. Among the English literati of the last century, there is no other
writer of equal general ability, so decidedly, I had almost said so
servilely, of the school of Pope as Lyttelton. The little crooked man,
during the last thirteen years of his life, was a frequent visiter at Hagley;
and it is still a tradition in the neighborhood, that in the hollow in which
his urn has been erected he particularly delighted. He forgot Cibber, So and
Lord flung up with much glee his poor shapeless legs, thickened by
three pairs of stockings apiece, and far from thick, after all; and called
the place his “own ground.” It certainly does no discredit to the taste that
originated the gorgeous though somewhat indistinct descriptions of “Windsor
Forest.” There are noble oaks on every side, — some in their vigorous
middle-age, invested with that “rough grandeur of bark, and wide protection
of bough,” which Shenstone so admired, — some far gone in years, mossy and
time-shattered, with white skeleton branches atop, and fantastic scraggy
roots projecting, snakelike, from the broken ground below. An irregular open
space in front permits the eye to range over a prospect beautiful though not
extensive; a small clump of trees rises so near the urn, that, when the
breeze blows, the slim branch-tips lash it as if in sport; while a clear and
copious spring comes bubbling out at its base.
I passed somewhat hurriedly through glens and glades, — over rising knolls
and wooded slopes, — saw statues and obelisks, temples and hermitages, — and
lingered a while, ere I again descended to the lawn, on the top of an
eminence which commands one of the richest prospects I had yet seen. The
landscape from this point, — by far too fine to have escaped the eye of
Thomson, — is described in the “Seasons" and the hill which overlooks it
represented as terminating one of the walks of Lyttelton and his lady, —
that Lucy Lady Lyttleton whose early death formed, but a few years after,
the subject of the monody so well known and so much admired in the days of
our great-grandmothers : —
“The beauteous bride,
To 'whose fair memory flowed the tenderest tear
That ever trembled o’er the female bier.”
It is not in every nobleman’s park one can have the opportunity of comparing
such a picture as that in the “Seasons” with such an original. I quote, with
the description, the preliminary lines, so vividly suggestive of the
short-lived happiness of Lyttelton: —
“Perhaps thy loved Lucinda shares thy walk,
With soul to thine attuned.
Then Nature all Wears to the lover’s eye a look of love;
And all the tumult of a guilty world,
Tossed by the generous passions, sinks away;
The tender heart is animated peace;
And, as it pours its copious treasures forth
In various converse, softening every theme,
You, frequent pausing, turn, and from her eyes,—
Where meekened sense, and amiable grace,
And lively sweetness dwell, — enraptured drink
That nameless spirit of ethereal joy, —
Unutterable happiness! — which love
Alone bestows, and on a favored few.
Meantime you gain the height from whose fair brow
The bursting prospect spreads immense around,
And, snatched o’er hill and dale, and wood and lawn,
And verdant field, and darkening heath between,
And villages embosomed soft in trees,
And spiry towns by surging columns marked
Of household smoke, your eye excursive roams,
Wide stretching from the H, in whose kind haunt
The Hospitable Genius lingers still,
To where the broken landscape, by degrees
Ascending, roughens into rigid hills,
O’er which the Cambrian mountains, like far clouds
That skirt the blue horizon, dusky rise.”
As I called up the passage on the spot where, as a yet unformed conception,
it had first arisen in the mind of the writer, I felt the full force of the
contrast presented by the two pictures which it exhibits, — the picture of a
high but evanescent human happiness, whose sun had set in the grave nearly a
century ago; and the picture of the enduring landscape, unaltered in a
single feature since Lyttelton and his lady had last gazed on it from the
hill-top. “Alas!” exclaimed the contemplative Mirza, “man is but a shadow,
and life a dream.” A natural enough reflection, surely, — greatly more so, I
am afraid, than the solace sought by the poet Beattie under its depressing
influence, in a resembling evanescence and instability in all nature and in
all history.
“Art, empire, earth itself, to change are doomed:
Earthquakes have raised to heaven the humble vale,
And gulfs the mountain’s mighty mass entombed,
And where the Atlantic rolls, wide continents have bloomed.”
All very true, — none the less so, certainly, from the
circumstance of its being truth in advance of the age in which the poet
wrote; but it is equally and still more emphatically true, that the
instability of a mountain or continent is a thing to be contrasted, not
compared, with the instability of the light clouds that, when the winds are
up, float over it, and fling athwart the landscape their breadth of fitful
shadow. And, alas! what is human life? “even a vapor, that appeareth for a
little time, and then vanisheth away.” There jneed be no lack of
mementoes to remind one, as I was this day reminded by the passage in
Thomson, what a transitory shadow man is, compared with the old earth which
he inhabits, and how fleeting his pleasures, contrasted with the stable
features of the scenes amid which, for a few brief seasons, he enjoys them.
Thfe landscape from the hill-top could not have been seen to
greater advantage, had I waited for months to pick out their best day. The
far Welsh mountains, though lessened in the distance to a mere azure ripple,
that but barely roughened the line of the horizon, were as distinctly
defined in the clear atmosphere as the green luxuriant leafage in the
foreground, which harmonized so exquisitely with their blue. The line
extended from far beyond the Shropshire Wrekin on the right, to far beyond
the Worcestershire Malvems on the. left. Immediately at the foot of the
eminence stands the mansion-house of Hagley, — the “Hall” where the
“hospitable genius lingers still;” — a large, solid-looking, but somewhat
sombre edifice, built of the New Bed Sandstone on which it rests, and which
too much reminds one, from its peculiar tint, of the prevailing red brick of
the district. There was a gay party of cricket-players on the lawn. In
front, Lord Lyttelton, a fine-looking young man, stripped of coat and
waistcoat, with his bright white shirt puffed out at his waistband, was
sending the ball far beyond bound, amid an eager party, consisting chiefly,
as the gardener informed me, of tenants and tenants’ sons; and the cheering
sounds of shout and laughter came merrily up the hill. Beyond the house
rises a noble screen of wood, composed of some of the tallest and finest
trees in England. Here and there the picturesque cottages of the neighboring
village peep through; and then, on and away to the far horizon, there
spreads out a close-wrought net-work of fenced fields, that, as it
recedes from the eye, seems to close its meshes, as if drawn awry by the
hand, till at length the openings can be no longer seen, and the hedge-rows
lie piled on each other in one bosky mass. The geologic framework of the
scene is various, and each distinct portion bears its own marked
characteristics. In the foreground we have the undulating trap, so suited to
remind one, by the picturesque abruptnesses of its outlines, of those
somewhat fantastic backgrounds one sees in the old prints which illustrate,
in our early English translations, the pastorals of Virgil and Theocritus.
Next succeeds an extended plane of the richly-cultivated New Red Sandstone,
which, occupying fully two-thirds of the entire landscape, forms the whole
of what a painter would term its middle ground, and a little more. There
rises over this plane, in the distance, a ridgy acclivity, much fretted by
inequalities, composed of an Old Red Sandstone formation, coherent enough to
have resisted those denuding agencies by which the softer deposits have been
worn down; while the 'distant sea of blue hills, that seems as if toppling
over it, has been scooped out of the Silurian formations, Upper and Lower,
and demonstrates, in its commanding altitude and bold wavy outline, the
still greater solidity of the materials which compose it.
The entire prospect, — one of the finest in England, and eminently
characteristic of what is best in English scenery, — enabled me to
understand what I had used to deem a peculiarity, — in some measure a
defect, — in the landscapes of the poet Thomson. It must have often struck
the Scotch reader, that in dealing with very extended prospects, he rather
enumerates than describes. His pictures are often mere catalogues, in which
single words stand for classes of objects, and in which the entire poetry
seems to consist in an overmastering sense of vast extent, occupied by
amazing multiplicity. I cannot better illustrate my meaning than by his
introductory description to the “Panegyric on Great Britain”: —
“Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads around,
Of hills, and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires,
And glittering towns, and gilded streams, till all
The stretching landscape into smoke decays!”
Now, the prospect from the hill at Hagley furnished me with
the true explanation of this enumerative style. Measured along the horizon,
it must, on the lowest estimate, be at least fifty miles in longitudinal
extent; measured laterally, from the spectator forwards, at least twenty.
Some of the Welsh mountains which it includes are nearly thrice that
distance; but then they are mere remote peaks, and the area at their bases
not included in the prospect. The real area, however, must rather exceed
than fall short of a thousand square miles; the fields into which it is laid
out are small, scarcely averaging a square furlong in superficies; so that
each square mile must contain about forty, and the entire landscape, — for
all is fertility, — about forty thousand. With these there are commixed
innumerable cottages, manor-houses, villages, towns. Here the surface is
dimpled by unreckoned hollows; there fretted by uncounted mounds; all is
amazing, overpowering multiplicity, — a multiplicity which neither the pen
nor the pencil can adequately express; and so description, in even the hands
of a master, sinks into mere enumeration. The picture becomes a catalogue;
and all that genius can accomplish in the circumstances is just to do with
its catalogue what Homer did with his,— dip it in poetry. I found, however,
that the innumerable details of the prospect, and its want of strong leading
features, served to dissipate and distract the mind, and to associate with
the vast whole an idea of littleness, somewhat in the way that the
minute hieroglyphics on an Egyptian obelisk serve to divert attention from
the greatness of the general mass, or the nice integrity of its proportions;
and I would have perhaps attributed the feeling to my Scotch training, had I
not remembered that Addison, whose early prejudices must have been of an
opposite cast, represents it as thoroughly natural. Our ideas of the great
in nature he describes as derived from vastly-extended, not richly-occupied,
prospects. “Such,” he says, “are the prospects of an open champaign country,
a vast uncultivated desert of huge heaps of mountains, high rocks, and
precipices, or a wide expanse of water. Such extensive and
undetermined prospects,” he adds, “are as pleasing to the fancy as the
speculations of eternity or infinitude are to the understanding.” Shenstone,
too, is almost equally decided on the point; and certainly no writer has
better claims to be heard on questions of this kind than the author of the
Leasowes. “Grandeur and beauty,” he remarks, “are so very opposite, that you
often diminish the one as you increase the other. Large, unvariegated,
simple objects have always the best pretensions to sublimity: a large
mountain, whose sides are unvaried by art, is grander than one with infinite
variety. Suppose it checkered with different-colored clumps of wood, scars
of rock, chalk-quarries, villages, and farm-houses, — you will perhaps have
a more beautiful scene, but much less grand, than it was before. The
hedge-row apple-trees in Herefordshire afford a lovely scenery at the time
they are in blossom; but the prospect would be really grander did it consist
of simple foliage. For the same reason, a large oak or beech in autumn is
grander than the same in spring. The sprightly green is then obfuscated.” |