The Brig of Ayr And something of its History by James A. Morris
(1912)
PREFATORY NOTE
THE poem, "The
Brigs of Ayr," was written in 1786, and inscribed to the Poet's
good friend, Mr John Ballantine, banker, Ayr. He it was who
generously offered to advance the sum, happily not required, for
the production of the Second Edition, published in Edinburgh in
1787, which, following by a year the Kilmarnock Edition,
contained twenty-two pieces additional thereto, one of them "The
Brigs of Ayr." To Mr Ballantine, Burns addressed several letters
from Edinburgh, informing him of his reception by the world of
birth, letters, and good fellowship; and, as indicative
throughout all his triumphs and later troubles of how warm a
place Ayr held in his heart, let the following letter
establish:—
March 1791.
"While here I
sit, sad and solitary, by the side of a fire in a little country
inn, and drying my wet clothes, in pops a poor fellow of a
sodger, and tells me he is going to Ayr. By heavens ! say I to
myself, with a tide of good spirits which the magic of that
sound, Auld Toon o' Ayr, conjured up, I will send my last song
to Mr Ballantine. Here it is:—
"Ye flowery banks o' bonnie
Doon,
How can ye blume sae fair!
How can ye chant, ye little birds,
And I sae fu' o' care!
Thou'll break my heart, thou
bonnie bird,
That sings upon the bough;
Thou minds me o' the happy days
When my fause luve was true.
Thou'll break my heart, thou
bonnie bird,
That sings beside thy mate;
For sae I sat, and sae I sang,
And wist na o' my fate.
Aft hae I rov'd by bonnie Doon,
To see the woodbine twine,
And ilka bird sang o' its love,
And sae did I o' mine.
Wi' lightsome heart I pu'd a
rose
Frae aff its thorny tree,
And my fause luver staw the rose,
But left the thorn wi' me."
The second version of the
song, one of the most beautiful lyrics ever written, is here
given in the form in which it was sent to Mr Ballantine, and not
the altered and later version now in general use.
Ayr, Scotland
The New Bridge, designed by Mr
Robert Adams, and built during the Provostship of Mr Ballantine,
was practically finished in 1789; but on what I am told was the
middle baluster of the range above the midmost arch, on the west
and untouched side, is the date 1785, and this baluster is in
the possession of the heirs of the late Mr John Miller, Fort
Castle, Ayr, to whom much of the dressed stonework of the Brig
found its way during the period of its demolition. The four
valuable cast-lead figures from the Bridge were at first secured
by private individuals, but they are now and more fittingly in
the gardens of Alloway Cottage and Burns' Monument, two in each
; Ceres and Bacchus disporting themselves on the cottage lawn,
while Pan and Marsyas, having found for themselves secluded
bowers by the riverside, tune their pipes to its music. In the
Town Council minutes of the time, there is a series of
interesting references to the building of this bridge. The
Committee of the Council charged with the conduct of the work
was, on the 24th February 1786, instructed to sign the contract
"with Alexander Stevens, mason in Prestonhall"; and at the
monthly meeting on the 3rd May of the same year, it was reported
that the contract had been duly signed. On the 21st January
1789, there is the entry that the bridge "was finished";
instructions were given to have it inspected, and, if found
satisfactory, taken over from the contractor. This was done, and
on the 3rd March 1790 the accounts, amounting in all to £4063,
2S., were reported settled. The poem was written probably
between the publication of the Kilmarnock Edition, on the 31st
July 1786, and certainly prior to the 7th or 8th of October of
the same year; and the foregoing notes from the Burgh minutes
are of interest, because they give the authoritative dates of
the beginning and close of the building operations. Between the
31st May, when it was reported to the Council that the contract
had been signed, and the early days of October —the period of
Burns' letter to Aiken—very little even of the " rising piers "
could have been visible, and the "braw new coat" then existed
only on the contract drawings, or in the poet's imagination;
even the arches had not yet been "streeket ower frae bank tae
bank." It was long a tradition among the older generation of Ayr
masons—indeed I have heard it repeated by a descendant if not of
Alexander Stevens himself, then of one who had a prominent
sharein the work—that the foundations were, at the time of
building, considered unsatisfactory. Whether, however, this
applied to the actual foundations, or to the strata upon which
they were placed, I was not able to ascertain. Burns' emphatic
prediction,
"Then down ye'll hurl, deil nor ye never rise!
And dash the gumlie jaups up to the pouring skies."
may, therefore, possibly have
been based on something more than prescience.
In 1844, four years after the
opening of the railway between Glasgow and Ayr, powers were
obtained from Parliament for the widening of the bridge—which
had become inadequate for the increased traffic— the terminus of
the railway being then on the north side of the river. This
widening was carried out "on the upper side, in a line with the
east side of Bridge Street, which will give an additional width
of 13 feet 9 inches." Other than this excerpt from the minutes
of the Council, there does not appear to be any further
reference to the matter, either in the minutes of the Town
Council, or in those of the Road Trustees, both of which bodies
apparently had a share in the operations; nor is there seemingly
any allusion to the widening of the Bridge, or its reopening, in
any of the local newspapers of the day.
The new parapet abutted
against the still existing old house, probably built with the
Bridge, but its characteristic oriel windows are surely an
unusual reproduction in Adams work, of what would seem to
suggest descent from the plaster and timber oriels of a
preceding, and more indigenous style. This older view, shown in
the frontispiece, is from a large painted tray in my possession;
interesting also as showing the Tolbooth with its "dungeon
clock" and nineteen steps, as well as something of the earlier
Ayr in the Bridge neighbourhood.
The widened Bridge became
dangerous in 1877, and was removed in that and in the following
year, during the occupancy of the civic chair by Mr Thomas
Steele ; from whom I have it that early one morning the chief
constable, Captain M'Donald, a decorous, douce, and usually
deliberate highland-man, rushed in upon him and with upraised
hands and gestures of consternation cried out, " Provost, the
brig's doon the water!"
The location of "Simpson's"
Tavern is established by an old hand-bill dated 5 th September
1792, which is here reproduced by the kindness of Mrs Campbell
of Daldorch, who recently accompanied me to the Black Bull Inn,
and identified the old house next it on the east, as the house
referred to in the circular. It may therefore be reasonably
assumed that Burns, whether in the body or out of the body, must
have wandered across the Auld Brig, and, turning to the left at
"Simpson's," taken his stand somewhere on the northern bank of
the river between the Brigs, and from thence beheld his vision.
Reference is also made in the Town Council minutes of the ist
July 1789 to "John Simson, Innkeeper at Bridgend of Ayr," whose
petition to be made exempt from payment of toll on the New
Bridge was refused, on the ground that he kept a public stable,
and that "even his own horses are let out for hire."
I have here to acknowledge
with pleasure the kindness of Mr P. A. Thomson, the Town Clerk
of Ayr, and my indebtedness to him for ready access afforded me
at all times to the Burgh minutes and other documents.
The version of "The Brigs of
Ayr," now reproduced, is taken from the volume in which it was
first published; "Poems, chiefly in the Scottish Dialect. By
Robert Burns. Edinburgh: printed for the Author, and Sold by
William Creech, m, dcc, lxxxvii." Lord Rosebery, however has in
his possession the MS. of another version, which I saw, and
which his lordship took with him and held in his hand while he
addressed the meeting at Glasgow, in aid of the Lord Provost's
Fund for the preservation of the Auld Brig of Ayr.
The accompanying outline of
the more salient features of the history of the preservation
movement, was published prior to the reopening ceremony, as an
article written for The Glasgow Herald, which identified
itself, through Dr Wallace, the then editor, so strongly with
the preservation movement; and for its reproduction, in a
revised and perhaps more conveniently permanent form, I am
indebted to the courtesy of Mr F. Harcourt Kitchin, the present
Editor of that newspaper.
As the reopening ceremony
followed the article by several days, no reference could of
course therein be made to the proceedings; and the brief
extracts from the speeches bearing more directly on the Brig,
now added in the form of an appendix, have been incorporated, as
also Lord Rosebery's always eloquent and in this instance
peculiarly reverent and touching peroration, at the request of
many readers of this little book; who, having kindly expressed a
strong desire that such reference should be included, are here
accommodated ; in order, as they said, that the outline record
of the preservation movement should be made relatively complete,
and the story carried onward, meantime at least, to the day of
the reopening ceremony.
The History of AYR - Short
Scottish Film/Documentary - 2016 HD
Several correspondents abroad,
and long absent from Ayr, have asked if the old sundial they
remember as boys has been retained? Most gladly do I answer that
it is as they knew it, unaltered and untouched. It was carefully
taken down in one block together with its several supporting
stones, and all in one block as carefully replaced ; so that
to-day the sundial stands on the parapet, exactly as it stood
when they and I first saw it—now perhaps nearly fifty years ago.
The old wrought-iron lamp,
with its particularly long back stay reaching down to the
steeply inclined cutwater, which so many of them recall, is also
still in position ; and not a few have reverted to their
foolhardy and venturesome scrambles down its slender length to
the precarious foothold afforded by the cutwater slope, in
predatory incursions after the fragrant wall-flower which found
roothold in the open joints between the stones. The wall-flower,
alas! a stray gooseberry bush, and all the luxurious vegetation
which grew so thickly on the several cutwater slopes,—upon one
of which a Brig story tells that, in the dawn of a long-ago
morning, a goat was found browsing,—have been cleared away, and
the picturesque covering and colour sacrificed at the shrine of
preservation.
It is very pleasant to receive
letters inquiring about these things, indicating as they do that
grown men in far-off lands can become boys in heart again in the
remembrance of the Brig. These are among the things that hold a
people together, and the spirit which impelled many to clamber
down the lamp stay, as also round the narrow cliff edge, now
impassable, between Greenan Castle and the sea; the same old "Daur
ye do it?" in the vernacular of the past, has doubtless carried
the same men round many a tight corner and up many a stey brae,
in other and later times.
In Ayrshire
A Descriptive Picture of the County of Ayr with relative notes on
interesting local subjects, by William Scott Douglas, Editor of 'The
Kilmarnock Edition" of Burns (1874) (pdf) Contains much information on
Burns & his associations & is valuable to the Burns Student. J
Williamson, Meadowfield
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