Fresh-Water Fish not of much value - The Angler and his Equipment -
Pleasures of the Country in May - Anglers' Fishes - Trout, Pike, Perch,
and Carp - Gipsy Anglers - Angling Localities - Gold Fish - The River
Scenery of England - The Thames - Thames Anglers - Sea Angling - Various
Kinds of Sea-Fish - Proper Kinds of Bait - The Tackle necessary - The
Island of Arran - Corry - Goatfell, etc.
ALTHOUGH it may be deemed
necessary in a work like the present to devote some space to the subject,
I do not set much store by the common anglers' fishes, so far, at least,
as their food value is concerned ; for although we were to cultivate them
to their highest pitch, and by means of artificial spawning multiply them
exceedingly, they would never (the salmon, of course, excepted) form an
article of any great commercial value in this beef-eating country. In
France, where the Church enjoins many fasts and strict sumptuary laws, the
people require, in the inland districts especially, to have recourse to
the meanest produce of the rivers in order to carry out the injunctions of
their priests. The smallest streams are therefore assiduously cultivated
in many continental countries ; but the fresh-water fishes of the British
Islands have only at present a very slight commercial value, as they are
not captured, either individually or in the aggregate, for the purposes of
commerce ; but to persons fond of angling they afford sport and healthful
recreation, whether they are pursued in the large English or Scottish
lakes, or caught in the small rivulets that feed our great salmon streams.
Although Britain is possessed of a seabord of 4000 miles, and a large
number of fine rivers and lakes, the total number of British fishes is
comparatively small (about 250 only), and the varieties which live in the
fresh water are therefore very limited ; those that afford snort may be
numbered with ease on our ten fingers. Fishers who live in the vicinity of
large cities are obliged in consequence to content themselves with the
realisation of that old proverb which tells them that small fish are
better than no fish at all ; hence there is a race of anglers who are
contented to sit all day in a punt on the Thames, happy when evening
arrives to find their patience rewarded with a fisher's dozen of stupid
gudgeons. But in the north, on the lakes of Cumberland or on the Highland
lochs of Scotland, such tame sport would be laughed at. Are there not
charr in the Derwent and splendid trout in Loch Awe I and these require to
be pursued with a zeal, and involve an amount of labour, not understood by
anglers who punt for gudgeon or who haunt the East India Docks for perch,
or the angler who only knows the usual run of Thames fish-barbel, roach,
dace, and gudgeon. To kill a sixteen-pound salmon on a Welsh or Highland
stream is to be named a knight among anglers ; indeed, there are men who
never lift a rod except to kill a salmon ; such, however, like the Duke of
Roxburghe, are giants among their fellows. For sport there is no fish like
the "monarch of the brook," and great anglers will not waste time on any
fish less noble. An angler, with a moderate-sized fish of the salmon kind
at the end of his line, is not in the enjoyment of a sinecure, although he
would not for any kind of reward allow his work to be done by deputy. I
have seen a gentleman play a fish for four hours rather than yield his rod
to the attendant gillie, who could have landed the fish in half-an-hour's
time. It is a thrilling moment to find that, for the first time, one has
hooked a salmon, and the event produces a nervousness that certainly does
not tend to the speedy landing of the fish. The first idea, naturally
enough, is to haul our scaly friend out of the water by sheer force ; but
this plan has speedily to be abandoned, for the fish, making an astonished
dash, rushes away up stream in fine style, taking out no end of "rope;"
then when once it obtains a bite of its bridle away it goes sulking into
some rocky hiding-place. In a brief time it comes out again with renewed
vigour, determined as it would seem to try your mettle ; and so it dashes
about till you become so fatigued as not to care whether you land it or
not. It is impossible to say how long an angler may have to "play" a
salmon or a large grilse ; but if it sinks itself to the bottom of a deep
pool, it may be a business of hours to get it safe into the landing net,
if the fish be not altogether lost, as in its exertions to escape it may
so chafe the line as to cause it to snap, and thus regain its liberty ;
and during the progress of the battle the angler has certainly to wade, ay
and be pulled once or twice through the stream, so that he comes in for a
thorough drenching, and may, as many have to do, go home after a hard
day's work without being rewarded by the capture of a single fish.
There is abundance of good salmon-angling to be had at the proper season
in the north of Scotland, where there are always a great variety of
fishings to let at prices suitable for all pockets; and there is nothing
better either for health or recreation than a day on a salmon stream.
There are one or two places on Tweed frequented by anglers who take a
fishing as a sort of joint-stock company, and who, when they are not
angling, talk politics, make poetry, bandy about their polite chaff, and
generally " go in," as they say, for any amount of amusement. These
societies are of course very select, and not easily accessible to
strangers, being of the nature of a club. The plan which every angler
ought to adopt on going to a strange water is to place himself under the
guidance of some shrewd native of the place, who will show him all the
best pools and aid him with his advice as to what flies he ought to use,
and give him many useful hints on other points as well. Anglers, however,
must divide their attention, for it is quite as interesting (not to speak
of convenience) for some men to spend a day on the Thames killing barbel
or roach as it is to others to kill a ten-pound salmon on the Tweed or the
Spey. It is good sport also to troll for pike in the Lodden or to capture
grayling in beautiful Dovedale. And so pleasant has of late years become
the sport, that it is now quite a common sight to see a gentle-born lady
handling a salmon-rod with much vigour on some of our picturesque Highland
or border streams. In fact, angling is a recreation that can be made to
suit all classes, from the child with his stick and crooked pin to the
gentleman with his well-mounted rod and elaborate tackle, who hies away in
his yacht to the fiords of Norway in search of salmon that weigh from
twenty to forty pounds, and require half a day to capture. For those,
however, who desire to stay at home there is abundant angling all the year
round. From NewYear's Day to Christmas there needs be no stoppage of the
sport ; even the weather should never stop an enthusiastic angler ; but on
very bad days, when it is not possible to go put of doors, there is the
study of the fish, and their natural and economic history, which ought to
be interesting to all who use the angle, and to the majority of mankind
besides.
Without pretending to rival the hundred and one guides to angling that now
flood the market, I shall take a glance at a few of the more popular of
the angler's fishes ; not, however, in any scientific or other order of
precedence, but beginning with the trout, seeing that the salmon is
discussed in a separate division of this work.
Of all our fresh-water fishes, the one that is most plentiful, and the one
that is most worthy of notice by anglers, is the trout. It can be fished
for with the simplest possible kind of rod in the most tiny stream, or be
captured by elaborate apparatus on the great lochs of Scotland. There are
so many varieties of it as to suit all tastes ; there are well-flavoured
burn trout, not so large as a small herring, and there are lake giants
that, when placed in the scales, will pull down a twenty-pound weight. The
usual run of river trout, however, is about six or eight ounces in weight
; a pound trout is an excellent reward for the patient angler. Where a
fronting stream flows through a rich and fertile district of country, with
abundant drainage, the trout are usually well-conditioned and large, and
of good flavour ; but when the country through which the stream flows is
poor and rocky, with no drains carrying in food to enrich the stream, the
fish are, as a matter of course, lanky and flavourless ; they may be
numerous, but they will be of small size. It is curious, too, to note the
difference of the fish of the same stream : some of the trout taken in
Tweed, and in other rivers as well, are sharp in their colour, have fine
fat plump thick shoulders, great depth of belly, and beautiful pink flesh
of excellent flavour. The flavour of trout is of course dependent on the
quality and abundance of its food ; those are best which exist on
ground-feeding, living upon worms and such fresh-water crustaceans as are
within reach. Fly-taking fish-those that indulge in the feed of ephemerae
that takes place a few times every day-are comparatively poor in flesh and
weak in flavour. As to where fishers should resort, must be left to
themselves. I was once beguiled out to the Dipple, but it is a hungry sort
of river, where the trout were on the average only about three ounces, and
scarce enough ; although I must say that for a few minutes, when "the
feed" was on the water, there was an enormous display of fish, but they
preferred to remain in their native stream, a tributary of the Clyde I
think. The mountain streams and lochs of Scotland, or the placid and
picturesque lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland, are the paradise of
anglers.
For trout-fishing I would name Scotland as being before all other
countries. "What," it has been asked, " is a Scottish stream without its
trout ? " Doubtless, if a river has no trout it is without one of its
greatest charms, and it is pleasant to record that, except in the
neighbourhood of very large seats of population, trout are still plentiful
in Scotland. It is true the railway, and other modes of conveyance, have
carried of late years a perfect army of anglers into its most picturesque
nooks and corners, and therefore fish are not so plentiful as they were
fifty years since, in the old coaching days, when it was possible to fill
a washing-tub in the space of half-an-hour with lovely half-pound trout
from a few pools on a burn near Moffat. But there are still plenty of
trout ; indeed there are noted Scotch fishers who can fill baskets from
streams near large cities that have been too much fished.
The place to try an angler is a fine Border stream or a grand Highland
loch ; but I shall not presume to lay down minute directions as to how to
angle, for an angler, like a poet, must be born, he can scarcely be bred,
and no amount of book lore can confer upon a man the magic power of luring
the wary trout from its crystalline home. The best anglers, and
fish-poachers, are gipsies. A gipsy will raise fish when no other human
being can move them. If encamped near a stream, a gipsy baud are sure to
have fish as a portion of their daily food ; and how beautifully they can
broil a trout or boil a grilse those only who have dined with them can
say. Your gipsy is a rare good fisher, and with half a rod can rob a river
of a few dozens of trout in a very brief space of time, and he can do so
while men with elaborate "fishing machines," fitted up with costly tackle,
continue to flog the water without obtaining more than a questionable
nibble, just as if the fish knew that they were greenhorns, and took
pleasure in chaffing them. Mr. Cheek, who wrote a capital book for the
guidance of those I may call Thames anglers, says that the best way to
learn is to see other anglers at work-which is better than all the written
instructions that can be given, one hour's practical information going
farther than a folio volume of written-advice. It is all in vain for men
to fancy that a suit of new Tweeds, a fair acquaintance with Stoddart or
Stewart, and a large amount of angling "slang," will make them fishers.
There is more than that required. Besides the natural taste, there is
wanted a large measure of patience and skill ; and the proper place to
acquire these best virtues of the angler is among the brawling hill
streams of Scotland, or on the expansive bosom of some Cumberland lake,
while trying for a few delicious charr. A congregation of fish brought
together by means of a scatter of food and an angler's taking advantage of
the piscine convention over its diet of worms, is no more angling than a
battue is sport. An American that I have heard of has a fish-manufactory
in Connecticut, where he can shovel the animals out by the hundred ; but
then he does not go in for sport; his idea-a thoroughly American one-is
money ! But despite this exceedingly commercial idea, there are a few
anglers in America, and as water and game fishes abound, there is plenty
of sport. In North America are to be found both the true salmon and the
brook trout ; and as a great number of the American fishes visit the fresh
and salt water alternately, they, by reason of their strength and size,
afford excellent employment either to the river or sea angler. One of the
best American fishes is called the Mackinaw salmon.
To come back, in the meantime, to Scotland and the trout, and where to
find them, I may mention that that particular fish is the stock in trade
of the streams and lochs of Scotland, - Scotland, the "land of the
mountain and the flood," - and there is an ever-abiding abundance of
water, for the lochs and streams of that country are numberless. One
county alone (Sutherland, to wit) contains a thousand lochs, and one
parish in that county has in it two hundred sheets of water, all abounding
with fine trout, affording sport to the angler-rewarding all who persevere
with full baskets. As I have already hinted, the fisher must study his
locality and glean advice from well-informed residents. The gipsies of a
district can usually give capital advice as to the kind of bait that will
please best. Many a time have anglers been seen flogging away at a stream
or lake that was troutless, or at their wit's end as to which of their
flies would please the dainty palate of my lord the resident trout. But I
shall not further dogmatise on such matters ; most people given to angling
are quite as wise, on that subject at least, as the writer of these
remarks ; and there are as fine trout in England, I daresay, as there are
in Scotland ; indeed there are a thousand streams in Great Britain and
Ireland where we can find fish - there are splendid trout even in the
Thames. Then there are the Dove and the Severn, as well as rivers that are
much farther away, so that on his second day from London an active angler
may be whipping the Spey for salmon, or trolling on Loch Awe for the large
trout that inhabit that sheet of water. The change of scene is of itself a
delight, no matter what river the visitor may choose. At the same time the
physical exertion undergone by the angler flushes his cheek with the hue
of health,
and imparts to his frame a
strength and elasticity known only to such as are familiar with country
scenes and pure air. May and the Mayfly are held to inaugurate the
angler's year; for although a few of the keenest sportsmen keep on angling
all the year round, most of them lay down their rod about the end of
October, and do not think of again resuming it till they can smell the
sweet fragrance of the advancing summer. Although few of our busy men of
law or commerce are able to forestall the regular holiday period of August
and September, yet a few do manage a run to the country at the charming
time of May, when the days are not too hot for enjoyment nor too short for
country industry. In August and September the landscape is preparing for
the sleep of winter, whilst in May it is being
robed by nature for the fetes of summer, and, despite
the sneers of some poets and naturalists, is new and charming in the
highest degree. Town living people should visit the country in May, and
see and feel its industry, pastoral and simple as it is, and at the
same time view the charms of its scenery in all its vivid freshness and
fragrance.
Some anglers delight in
pike-catching, others try for perch ; but give me the trout, of which
there is a large variety, and all worth catching. In Loch Awe, for
instance, there is the great lake trout, which, combined with the beauty
of the scenery, has sufficed to draw to that neighbourhood some of our
best anglers. The trout of Loch Awe, as is well known, are very ferocious,
hence their scientific name of
Salmo ferox.
It attains to great dimensions ; individuals
weighing twenty pounds have been often captured ; but its flavour is
indifferent and the flesh is coarse, and not prepossessing in colour. This
kind of trout is found in nearly all the large and deep lochs of Scotland.
It was discovered scientifically about the end of last century by a
Glasgow merchant, who was fond of sending samples of it to his friends in
proof of his prowess as an angler. The usual way of taking the great lake
trout is to engage a boat to fish from, which must be rowed gently through
the water. The best bait is a small trout, with at least half-a-dozen
strong hooks projecting from it, and the tackle requires to be
prodigiously strong, as the fish is a most powerful one, although not
quite so active as some others of the trout kind, but it roves about in
the deeper waters, enacting the part of bully and cannibal to all lesser
creatures, and driving before it even the hungry pike. Persons residing
near the great lochs capture these large trout by setting night lines for
them. As has been already mentioned, they are exceedingly voracious, and
have been known to be dragged for long distances, and even after losing
hold of the bait to seize it again with much eagerness, and so have been
finally captured. These great lake trout are also to be found in other
countries.
In Lochleven, at Kinross,
twenty-two miles from Edinburgh, there will be found localised that
beautiful trout which is peculiar to this one loch, and which I have
already referred to as one of the mysterious fishes of Scotland. This fish
-although its quality is said to have been degenerated by the drainage of
the lake in 1830, at which period it was reduced by draining to a third of
its former dimensions-is of considerable commercial value ; it cannot be
bought in Edinburgh or London except at a fancy price ; and if it was
properly cultivated might yield a large revenue. I have not been able to
obtain recent statistics of " the take " of Lochleven trout, but in former
years, during the seven months of the fishing season, it used to range
from fifteen thousand to twenty thousand pounds weight, and at the time
referred to all trout under three-quarters of a pound in weight were
thrown back into the water by order of the lessee. Eighty-five dozen of
these fine trout have been known to be taken at a single haul, while from
twenty to thirty dozen used to be a very common take. As to perch, they
used to be caught in thousands. Little has or can be said about Lochleven
trout, except that they are a specialty. Some learned people (but I take
leave to differ from them) consider the Lochleven fish to be identical
with Salmo fario, but never in any of my piscatorial wanderings
have I found its equal in colour, flavour, or shape. It has been compared
with the Fario Lemanus of the Lake of Geneva, and having handled
both fishes, I must allow that there is very little difference between
them ; but still there are differences. Netting is not now allowed on the
loch, but there is a large fleet of boats, which can be hired at Kinross
for an hour or two's fishing on Lochleven.
I need not go over all the
varieties of fresh-water trout seriatim, for their name is legion,
and every book on angling contains lists of those peculiar to districts.
If anglers' fishes ever become valuable as food, it will be by the
cultivation of our great lochs. With such a vast expanse of water as is
contained in some of these lakes, and having ample river accommodation at
hand for spawning purposes, there could be no doubt that artificial
breeding, if properly gone about, would be successful. The Lochleven trout
is already of great money value commercially, and could be systematically
cultivated so as to become a considerable source of revenue to the
proprietor of the lake and amusement to the angler ; an experimental
attempt at cultivation took place some years ago, but no regular plan of
breeding these fish has yet been organised.
There are some pretty big
pike in Lochleven. As every angler knows, the pike affords capital sport,
and may be taken in many different ways. Pike spawn in March and April,
when the fish leaves its hiding-place in the deep water and retires for
procreative purposes into shallow creeks or ditches. The pike
yields a very large quantity of roe on
the average, and the young fish are not long in being hatched. Endowed
with great feeding power, pike grow rapidly from the first, attaining a
length of twenty-two inches. Before that period a young pike is called a
jack, and its increase of weight is at the rate of about four
pounds a year when well supplied
with food. The appetite of this fish is very great, and, from its being so
fierce, it has been called the pirate of the rivers. It is not easily
satisfied with food, and numerous extraordinary stories of the pike's
powers of eating and digesting have been from time to time related. I
remember, when at school at Haddington (seventeen miles from Edinburgh),
of seeing a pike that inhabited a hole in the "Lang Cram" (a part of the
river Tyne), which was nearly triangular in shape, supposed to be the
exact pattern of its hiding-place, and which devoured every kind of fish
or animal that came in its way. It was hooked several times, but always
managed to escape, and must have weighed at least twenty-five pounds. Upon
one occasion it was hooked by a little boy, who fished for it with a
mouse, when it rewarded him for his cleverness by dragging him into the
water ; and had help not been at hand the boy would assuredly have been
drowned, as the water at that particular spot was deep. As to the voracity
of this fish many particulars have been given. Mr. Jesse, in one of his
works, says that a pike of the weight of five pounds has been known to eat
a hundred gudgeon in three weeks ; and I have myself seen them killed in
the neighbourhood of a shoal of parr, and, notwithstanding their rapidity
of digestion, I have seen four or five fish taken out of the stomach of
each. Mr. Stoddart, one of our chief angling authorities, has calculated
the pike to be amongst the most deadly enemies of the infant salmon. He
tells us that the pike of the Teviot, a tributary of the Tweed, are very
fond of eating young smolts, and says that, in a stretch of water ten
miles long, where there is good feeding, there will be at least a thousand
pike, and that these during a period of sixty days will consume about a
quarter of a million of young salmon !
One would almost suppose that some
of the stories about the voracity of pike had been invented ; if only half
of them be true, this fish has certainly well earned its title of shark of
the fresh water. There is, for instance, the well-known tale of the poor
mule, which a pike was seen to take by the nose and pull into the water ;
but it is more likely I think that the mule pulled out the pike. Pennant,
however, relates a story of a pike that is known to be true. On the Duke
of Sutherland's Canal at Trentham, a pike seized the head of a swan that
was feeding under water, and gorged as much of it as killed both. A
servant, perceiving the swan with its head below the surface for a longer
time than usual, went to see what was wrong, and found both swan and pike
dead. A large pike, if it has the chance,
will think nothing of biting its captor ;
there are several authentic instances of this having been done. The pike
is a long-lived fish, grows to a large size, and attains a prodigious
weight. There is a narrative extant about one that was said to be two
centuries and a half old, which weighed three hundred and fifty pounds,
and was seventeen feet long. There is abundant evidence of the size of
pike : individuals have been captured in Scotland, so we are told in the
Scots Magazine, that weighed seventy-nine pounds. In the London newspapers
of 1765 an account is given of the draining of a pool, twenty-seven feet
deep, at the Lilishall Limeworks, near Newport, which had not been fished
for many years, and from which a gigantic pike was taken that weighed one
hundred and seventy pounds, being heavier than a man of twelve stone ! I
have seen scores of pike which weighed upwards of half a stone, and a good
many double that weight, but the weight is thought now to be on the
descending ratio, the giants of the tribe having been apparently all
captured. Formerly there used to be great hauls of this fish taken out of
the water. Whether or not a pike be good for food depends greatly on where
it has been fed, what it has eaten, and how it has been cooked. In fact,
as I have already endeavoured to show, the animals of the water are in
respect of food not unlike those of the land-their flavour is largely
dependent on their feeding ; and pike that have been luxuriating on
Lochleven trout, or feeding daintily for a few months on young salmon,
cannot be very bad fare.
The carp family (Cyprinidae) is very numerous,
embracing among its members the barbel, the gudgeon, the carp-bream, the
white-bream, the red-eye, the roach, the bleak, the dace, and the
well-known minnow. There is one of the family which is of a beautiful
colour, and with which all are familiar-I mean the golden carp, which may
be seen floating in its crystal prison in nearly every home of taste, and
which swarms in the ponds at Hampton Court, in the tropical waters of the
Crystal Palace at Sydenham, as also in all the great aquariums. The gold
and silver fish are natives of China, whence they were introduced into
this country by the Portuguese about the end of the seventeenth century,
and have become, especially of late years, so common as to be hawked about
the streets for sale. In China, as we can read, every person of fashion
keeps gold-fish by way of having a little amusement. They are contained
either in the small basins that decorate the courts of the Chinese houses,
or in porcelain vases made on purpose ; and the most beautiful kinds are
taken from a small mountain lake in the province of Che-Kyang, where they
grow to a comparatively large size, some attaining a length of eighteen
inches and a comparative bulk, the general run of them being equal in size
to our herrings. These lovely fish afford much delight to the Chinese
ladies, who tend and cultivate them with great care. They keep them in
very large basins, and a common earthen pan is generally placed
at the bottom of these in a reversed position, and so
perforated with holes as to afford shelter to the fish from the heat and
glare of the sun. Green stuff of some kind is also thrown upon the water
to keep it cool, and it (the water) must be partially changed every two
days, and the fish, as a general rule, must never be touched by the hand.
Great quantities of gold-fish are often bred in ponds adjacent to
factories, where the waste steam being let in the water is kept at a
warmish temperature. At the manufacturing town of Dundee they became at
one time a complete nuisance in some of the factories, having penetrated
into the steam 'and water pipes, occasionally bringing the works to a
complete standstill. In England the golden carp usually spawns between May
and July, the particular time being greatly regulated by the warmth of the
season. The time of spawning may be known by the change of habit which
occurs in this fish. It sinks at once into deep water instead of basking
on the top, as usual ; previous to which the fish are restive and quick in
their movements, throwing themselves out of the water, etc. It may be
stated here, to prevent disappointment, that golden carp seldom spawn in a
transparent vessel. A Mr. Mitchell of Edinburgh, however, brought out a
hatching in his shop aquarium, in the Lothian Road, but the fry escaped by
the waste pipe. When the spawn is hatched the fish are very black in
colour, some darker than others : these become of a golden hue, while
those of a lighter shade become silvercoloured. It is some time before
this change occurs, a portion colouring at the end of one year, and others
not till two or three seasons have come and gone. These beautiful
prisoners seldom live long in their crystal cells, although the prison is
beautiful enough, one would fancy :
" I ask, what warrant fixed them (like a spell
Of witchcraft fixed them) in the crystal cell ;
To wheel with languid motion round and round,
Beautiful, yet in mournful durance bound !"
Gold-fish ought not to be purchased except from some
very respectable dealer. I have known repeated cases where the whole of
the fish bought have died within an hour or two of being taken home. These
golden carp, which are reared for sale, are usually spawned and bred in
warmish water, and they ought in consequence to be acclimatised or
"tempered" by the dealer before they are parted with. Parties buying ought
to be particular as to this, and ascertain if the fish they have bought
have been tempered.
Returning to the common carp, I can speak of it as
being a most useful pond-fish. It is a vegetarian, and may be classed
among the least carnivorous fishes; it feeds chiefly upon vegetables or
decaying organic matter, and very few of them prey upon their kind, while
some, it is thought, pass the winter in a torpid state. There is a rhyme
which tells us that
Turkeys, carp, hops, pickerel, and beer,
Came into England all in one year.
But this couplet must, I think, be wrong, as some of
these items were in use long before the carp was known ; indeed, it is not
at all certain when this fish was first introduced into England, or where
it was brought from, but I think it extremely possible that it was
originally brought here from Germany. In ancient times there used to be
immense ponds filled with carp in Prussia, Saxony, Bohemia, Mecklenburg,
and Holstein, and the fish was bred and brought to market with as much
regularity as if it had been a fruit or a vegetable. The carp yields its
spawn in great quantities, no fewer than 700,000 eggs having been found in
a fish of moderate weight (ten pounds) ; and, being a hardy
fish, it is easily cultivated, so that it would be profitable to breed in
ponds for the fishmarkets of populous places, and the fish-salesmen assure
us that there would be a large demand for good fresh carp. It is
necessary, according to the best authorities, to have the ponds in suites
of three - viz. a spawning-pond, a nursery, and a receptacle for the large
fish-and to regulate the numbers of breeding fish according to the surface
of water. It is not my intention to go minutely into the construction of
carp-ponds ; but I may be allowed to say that it is always best to select
such a spot for their site as will give the engineer as little trouble as
possible. Twelve acres of water divided into three parts would allow a
splendid series of ponds-the first to be three acres in extent, the second
an acre more, and the third to be five acres ; and here it may be again
observed that, with water as with land, a given space can only
yield a given amount of produce, therefore the ponds must not be
overstocked with brood. Two hundred carp, twenty tench, and twenty jack
per acre is an ample stock to begin breeding with. A very profitable
annual return would be obtained from these twelve acres of water ; and, as
many
country gentlemen have even larger sheets than twelve
acres, I recommend this plan of stocking them with carp to their
attention. There is only the expense of construction to look to, as an
under-keeper or gardener could do all that was necessary in looking after
the fish. A gentleman having a large estate in Saxony, on which were
situated no less than twenty ponds, some of them as large as twenty-seven
acres, found that his r, stock of fish added greatly
to his income. Some of the carp weighed fifty pounds each, and upon the
occasion of draining one of his ponds, a supply of fish weighing five
thousand pounds was taken out ; and for good carp it would be no
exaggeration to say that sixpence per pound weight could easily be
obtained, which, for a quantity like that of this Saxon gentleman, would
amount to a sum of £125 sterling. Now, I have the authority of an eminent
fish-salesman for stating that ten times the quantity here indicated could
be disposed of among the Jews and Catholics of London in a week, and,
could a regular supply be obtained, an unlimited quantity might be sold.
I have been writing about Highland streams and northern
lochs ; but the river scenery of England is, in its way, equally
beautiful, and no river is more charming than the Thames. It is a classic
stream, and its praises have been sung by the poets and celebrated by the
historian. After Mrs. S. C. Hall and Thorne, it were vain to repeat its
praises :
"Glide gently, thus for ever glide,
0 Thames ! that anglers all may see
As lovely visions by thy side,
As now, fair river, come to me.
Oh, glide, fair stream, for ever so
Thy quiet soul on all bestowing,
Till all our minds for ever flow
As thy deep waters are now flowing."
The total length of the river Thames is 215 miles, and
the area of the country it waters is 6160 square miles. It has as
affluents a great many fine streams, including the river Loddon, as also
the Wey and the Mole. I am not entitled to consider it here in its
picturesque aspects-my business with it is piscatorial, and I am able to
certify that it is rich in fish of a certain kind -
" The bright-eyed perch with fins of Tyrian dye,
The silver eel in shining volumes rolled,
The yellow carp in scales bedropp'd with gold,
Swift trout diversified with crimson stains,
And pike, the tyrants of the watery plains."
Considering that all its best fishing points are
accessible to an immense population, many of whom are afflicted with a
mania for angling, it is quite wonderful that there is a single fish of
any description left in it ; and yet there are several bands of honest
anglers who can fill occasional big baskets. I may be allowed just to run
over a few Thames localities, and note what fish may be taken from them.
Above Teddington at different places an occasional trout may be pulled
out, but, although the finest trout in the world may be got in the Thames,
they are, unfortunately, so scarce in the meantime, that it is hardly
worth while to lose one's time in the all but vain endeavour to lure them
from their home. Pike fishing or trolling will reward the Thames angler
better than trouting. There are famous pike to be taken every here and
there - in the deep pools and at the weirs : and, as the pike is
voracious, a moderately good angler, with proper bait, is likely to have
some sport with this fish. But the specialty of the Thames, so far at
least as most anglers are concerned, is the quantity of fish of the carp
kind which it contains, as also perch. This latter fish may be taken with
great certainty about Maidenhead, Cookham, Pangbourne, VVaIton, Labham,
and Wallingford Road ; and a kindred fish, the pope, in great plenty, may
be sought for in the same localities. Then the bearded barbel is found in
greater plenty in the Thames than anywhere else, and, as it is a fish of
some size and of much courage, it affords great sport to the angler. The
best way to take the barbel is with the " Ledger," and the best places for
this kind of fishing are the deeps at Kingston Bridge, Sunbury Lock,
Halliford, Chertsey Weir, and in the deeps at Bray, where many a time and
oft have good hauls of barbel been taken. The best times for the capture
of this fish are late in the afternoon or very early in the morning. Chub
are also plentiful in the Thames ; and Mr. Arthur Smith, who wrote a guide
to Thames anglers, specially recommended the island above Goring for chub,
also Marlow and the large island below Henley Bridge. This fish can be
taken with the fly, and gives tolerable sport. The roach is a fish that
abounds in all parts of the Thames, especially between Windsor and
Richmond ; and in the proper season - September and October-it will be
found in Teddington Weir, Sunbury, Blackwater, Walton Bridge, Shepperton
Lock, the Stank Pitch at Chertsey, and near Maidenhead, Marlow, and Henley
Bridges. At Teddington I may state that the dace is abundant, and there is
plenty of little fish of various kinds that can be had as bait at most of
the places we have named. In fact, in the Thames there is a superabundance
of sport of its kind, and plenty of accommodation for anglers, with wise
"professionals " to teach them the art ; and although the best sport that
can be enjoyed on this lovely stream is greatly different from the
trout-fishing of Wales or Scotland, it is good in its degree, and tends to
health and high spirits, and an anxiety to excel in his craft, as one can
easily see who ventures by the side of the water about Kew and Richmond.
" With hurried steps,
The anxious angler paces on, nor looks aside,
Lest some brother of the angle, ere he arrive,
Possess his favourite swim."
I come now to the perch, a well-known because common
fish, about which a great deal has been written, and which is easily taken
by the angler. There are a great number of species of this fish, from the
common perch of our own canals and lochs to the "lates" of the Nile, or
the beautiful golden-tailed mesoprion, which swims in the seas of Japan
and India, and flashes out brilliant rays of colour. The perch was
assiduously cultivated in ancient Italy, in the days when pisciculture was
an adjunct of gastronomy, and was thought to equal the mullet in flavour.
In Britain, the fish, left to its natural growth and no care being taken
to flavour it artificially, is surpassed for table purposes by the salmon
and the trout ; but perch being abundant afford plenty of good fishing.
The perch usually congregate in small shoals, and delight in streams, or
water with a clear bottom and with overhanging foliage to shelter them
from the overpowering heat of summer. These fish do not attain any
considerable weight, the one recorded as being taken in the Serpentine, in
Hyde Park, which weighed nine pounds, being still the largest on record.
Perch of three and four pounds are by no means rare, and those of one
pound or so are quite common. The perch is a stupid kind of fish, and
easily captured. Many of the foreign varieties of perch attain
an immense weight. Some of the ancient writers tell
us that the " lates" of the Nile attained a weight of three hundred pounds
; and then there is the vacti of the Ganges, which is often caught five
feet long. The perch, after it is three years old, spawns about May. It
may be described as rather a hardy fish, as we know it will live a long
time out of water, and can be kept alive among wet moss, so that it may be
easily transferred from pond to pond. Its hardy nature accounts for its
being found in so many northern lochs and rivers, as in the olden times of
slow conveyances it must have taken a long time to send the fish to the
great distances we know it must have been carried to. On the Continent,
living perch are a feature of nearly all the fishmarkets. The fish, packed
in moss and occasionally sprinkled with water, are carried from the
country to the cities, and if not sold are taken home and replaced in the
ponds. This particular fish, which is very prolific, might be " cultivated
" to any extent. Fishponds, although not now common, used to be at one
time as much a food-giving portion of a country gentleman's commissariat
as his kitchen-garden or his cow-paddock.
As I have said so much about the Scottish lochs, it
would be but fair to say a few words about those of England ; but in good
honest truth it would be superfluous to descant at the present day on the
beauties of Windermere, or the general lake scenery of Cumberland and
Westmoreland: it has been described by hundreds of tourists, and its
praises have been sung by its own poets-the lake poets. It is with its
fish that we have business, and honesty compels us to give the charr a bad
character. It is not by any means a game fish, so far as sport is
concerned ; nor is it great in size or rich in flavour. But potted charr
is a rare breakfast delicacy. This fish, which is said by Agassiz to be
identical with the ombre chevalier of Switzerland, is rarely found to
weigh more than a pound ; specimens are sometimes taken exceeding that
weight, but they are scarce. The charr is found to be pretty general in
its distribution, and is found in many of the Scottish lochs. It spawns
about the end of the year, some of the varieties depositing their eggs in
the shallow parts of the lake, while others proceed a short way up some of
the tributary streams. In November great shoals of charr may be seen in
the rivers Rothay and Brathay, particularly the latter, with the view of
spawning. The charr, we are told by Yarrell, afford but scant amusement to
the angler, and are always to be found in the deepest parts of the water
in the lochs which they inhabit. "The best way to capture them is to trail
a very long line after a boat, using a minnow for a bait, with a large
bullet of lead two or three feet above the bait to sink it deep in the
water ; by this mode a few charr may be taken in the beginning of summer,
at which period they are in the height of perfection both in colour and
flavour."
As I am on the subject of anglers' fishes, the reader
will perhaps allow me to suggest that "no end of sport" may be obtained in
the sea; that capital sea-angling may be enjoyed all the year round, and
all round the British coasts ; and that there are fighting fishes in the
waters of the great deep that will occasionally try both the cunning and
the nerve of the best anglers. The greatest charm of sea-angling, however,
lies in its simplicity, and the readiness with which it can be engaged in,
together with the comparatively homely and inexpensive nature of the
instruments required. A party living at the seaside can either fish off
the rocks or hire a boat, and purchase, or obtain on loan (for a slight
consideration) such simple tackle as is necessary ; though it must not be
too simple, for even sea-fish will not stand the insult of supposing they
can be caught as a matter of course with anything ; and as the larger
kinds of hooks are often scarce at mere fishing villages, it is better to
carry a few to the scene of action. '
"Well then, what sport does the sea afford?" will most
likely be the first question put by those who are unacquainted with
sea-angling. I answer, Anything and everything in the shape of fish or
sea-monster, from a sprat to a whale. This is literally true. It is not an
unfrequent occurrence for tourists in Orkney, or other places in Scotland,
to assist at a whale battue; and some of my readers may remember a very
graphic description of an Orcadian whale-hunt, given in Blackwood's
Magazine, by the late Professor Aytoun, who was Sheriff and Admiral of
Orkney. The kind of sea-fish, however, that are most frequently taken by
the angler, both on the coasts of England and Scotland, are the whiting,
the common cod, the beautiful poor or power cod, and the mackerel ; there
is also the abundant coal-fish, or sea-salmon as I call it, from its
handsome shape. This fish is taken in amazing quantities, and in all its
stages of growth. It is known by various names, such as sillock, piltock,
cudden, poddly, etc. ; indeed most of our fishes have different names in
different localities ; but I shall keep to the proper name so as to avoid
mistakes. The merest children are able, by means of the roughest
machinery, to catch any quantity of young coal-fish ; they can be taken in
our harbours, and at the sea-end of our piers and landing -places. The
whiting is also very plentiful, so far as angling is concerned, as indeed
are most of the Gadidae. It feeds voraciously, and will seize upon
anything in the shape of bait ; several full-grown pilchards have been
more than once taken from the stomach of a four-pound fish. Whiting can be
caught at all periods of the year, but it is of course most plentiful in
the breeding season, when it approaches the shores for the purpose of
depositing its spawn-that is in January and February. The common cod-fish
is found on all parts of our coast, and the sea-anglers, if they hit on a
good locality-and this can be rendered a certainty-are sure to make a very
heavy basket.
The pollack, or, as it is called in Scotland, lythe,
also affords capital sport ; and the mackerel-herring and conger-eel can
be captured in considerable quantities. I can strongly recommend lythe-fishing
to gentlemen who are blases of salmon or pike, or who do not find
excitement even among the birds of lone St. Kilda. Then, as will
afterwards be described, there is the extensive family of the flat fish,
embracing brill, plaice, flounders, soles, and turbot. The latter is quite
a classic fish, and has long been an object of worship among gastronomists
; it has been known to attain an enormous size. Upon one occasion an
individual, which measured six feet across, and weighed one hundred and
ninety pounds, was caught near Whitby. The usual mode of capturing flat
fish is by means of the trawl-net, but many varieties of them may be
caught with a hand-line. A day's sea-angling will be chequered by many
little adventures. There are various minor monsters of the deep that vary
the monotony of the day by occasionally devouring the bait. A
tadpole-fish, better known as the sea-devil or " the angler," may be
hooked, or the fisher may have a visit from a hammer-headed shark or a
pile-fish, which adds greatly to the excitement ; and if " the dogs"
should be at all plentiful, it is a chance if a single fish be got out of
the sea in its integrity. So voracious and active are this species of the
Squalidae, that I have often enough pulled a mere skeleton into the boat,
instead of a plump cod of ten or twelve pounds weight.
I shall now say a few words about the machinery of
capture. The tackle in use for handline sea-fishing is
much
the same everywhere, and that which I describe will suit almost any
locality. It consists of a frame of four pieces of wood-work about a foot
and a half in length, fastened together in the shape of such a machine as
ladies use for certain worsted work. Round this is wound a thin cord,
generally tanned, of from ten to twenty fathoms in length. To the extreme
end of this line is attached a leaden sinker, the weight of which varies
according as the current
of
the tide is slow or rapid. About two feet above the sinker is a cross
piece of whalebone or iron, to the extremities of which the strings on
which the hooks are dressed are attached. Sometimes a third hook is
affixed to an outrigger, about two feet above the other hooks. The length
of the cords to which the lower hooks are attached should be such as to
allow them to hang about six inches higher than the bottom of the sinker.
In some parts of the Western Highlands a rod consisting of thin fir is
used, but from the length of line required it is rather a clumsy
instrument, as after the fish has been struck the rod has to be laid down
in the boat, and the line to be hauled in by hand.
As to bait it is quite impossible to lay down any
strict rule. The bait which is the favourite in one bay or bank is scouted
by the fish of other localities. At times almost anything will do :
numbers of mackerel have been taken with a little bit of red cloth
attached to the hook ; on certain occasions the fish are so hungry that
they will swallow the naked iron On the English coasts, and among the
Western Islands of
Scotland,
the most deadly bait that is used is boiled limpets, which require to be
partially chewed by the fisher before placing them on the hooks; in other
places mussels are the favourites, and in others the worms procured among
the mud of the shore. The limpet has this one advantage, that it is easily
fixed on the hook, and keeps its hold tenaciously. A very excellent bait
for the larger kinds of fish is the soft parts of the body of small crabs,
which are gathered for that purpose at low tide under the stones; a good
place for procuring them is a mussel-bed. The best time for fishing is
immediately before ebb or flow. The hooks being baited, the line is run
over the side of the boat until the lead touches the bottom, when it is
drawn up a little, so as to keep the baits out of reach of the crabs who
gnaw and destroy both bait and tackle. The line is held firmly and lightly
outside the boat, the other hand, inside the boat, also having a grip of
the line. The moment a fish is felt to strike, the line is jerked down by
the hand inside, thus bringing it sharply across the gunwale and fixing
the hook. A little experience will soon enable the angler to determine the
weight of the fish, and according as it is light or heavy must he quickly
or slowly haul in his line. When the fish reaches the surface, he should,
if practicable, seize it with his hand, as it is apt, on feeling itself
out of water, to wriggle off. A landing-clip or gaff, such as is used in
salmon-fishing, is useful, as, in the event of hooking a conger or a ray,
there is much difficulty, and even some danger.
In fishing for lythe - the most exciting of all sea
angling-a very strong cord is used, on which, in order to prevent the
fouling of the line, one or two stout swivels are attached. The hooks also
cannot be too strong ; those used for cod or ling fishing are very
suitable. The baits in general use are the body of a small eel, about half
a foot in length, skinned and tied to the shaft ; or a strip of red cloth,
or a red or white feather similarly attached. A piece of lead is fixed on
the line at a short distance above the hook.
The boat must be rowed or sailed at a moderate rate,
and from five or ten fathoms of the line allowed to trail behind. The boat
end of the line should be turned once or twice round the arm, and held
tightly in the hand ; if the line were fastened to the boat, there is
every chance that a large lythe - and they are frequently caught upwards
of thirty pounds weight-would snap the tackle. The fish, when hooked,
gives considerable play, and rather strongly objects to being lifted into
the boat. The clip or gaff is in this case always necessary. In fishing
for lythe, mackerel and dogfish are not unfrequently caught. The best
place for prosecuting this sport is in the neighbourhood of a rocky shore
; and the best times of the day are the early morning and evening. This
fish will also take readily during any period of a dull but not gloomy
day.
The most amusing kind of sea-angling is fly-fishing for
small lythe and saithe (coal-fish). The tackle is exceedingly simple: a
rod consisting of a pliant branch about eight feet in length ; a line of
light cord of the same length, and a little hook roughly busked with a
small white, red, or black feather. The fly is dragged on the surface as
the boat is rowed along, and the moment the fish is struck it is swung
into the boat. The fry of the lythe and saithe may also be fished for from
rocks and pier-heads, using the same tackle. A very ingenious plan for
securing a number of these little fish is carried on in the Firth of Clyde
and elsewhere. A boat similar in shape to a salmoncoble, with a crew of
two-one to row and one to fish-goes out along the shore in the evening,
when the sea is perfectly calm or nearly so. The fisher has charge of
half-a-dozen rods or more, similar to the one already mentioned. These
rods project across the square stern of the boat, and their near ends are
inserted into the interstices of a seat of wattled boughs, on which the
fisher sits, not steadily, but bumping gently up and down, communicating a
trembling motion to the flies. The course of the coble is always close in
shore, and, if the fish are taking well, the same ground may be fished
over many times during the course of the evening.
As to set-line-fishing, it can only be practised in
places where the tide recedes to a considerable distance. The cord used is
of no defined length, and at certain distances along its entire extent are
affixed corks to prevent the hooks sinking in the sand or mud. The
shore-end is generally anchored to a stone, and the further end fastened
to the top of a stout staff firmly fixed in the beach, and generally
attached also to a stone to prevent it drifting ashore in the event of
being loosened from its socket. From the staff almost to the shore, hooks
are tied along the line at distances of a yard. The hooks are baited at
low tide, and on the return of next low tide the line is examined. This is
neither a satisfactory nor sure method of fishing, as many of the fish
wriggle themselves free, and clear the hook of the bait, and many, after
being caught, fall a prey to dogfish, etc., so that the disappointed
fisher, on examining his line, too often finds a row of baitless hooks,
alternating with the half-devoured bodies of haddocks, flounders, saithe,
and other shore fish.
I
may just name another mode of obtaining sport, which is by spearing flat
fish, such as flounders, dab, plaice, etc. No rule can be laid down on
this method of fishing. It has been carried on successfully by means of a
common pitchfork, but some gentlemen go the length of having fine spears
made for the purpose, very long and with very sharp prongs ; others,
again, use a three-pronged farm-yard "graip," which has been known to do
as much real work as more elaborate utensils specially contrived for the
purpose. The simplest directions I can give to those who try this style of
fishing are just to spear all the fish they can see, but the general plan
is to stab in the dark with the kind of instrument delineated above. At
the mouths of most of the large English rivers there is usually abundance
of all the minor kinds of flat fish.
Lobsters
and crabs can be taken at certain rocky places of the coast; mussels can
be picked from the rocks, and cockles can be dug for in the sand. Shrimps
can also be taken, and various other wonders of the sea and its shores may
be picked up. After a storm a great number of curious fishes and shells
may be gathered, and some of these are very valuable as specimens of
natural history. The apparatus for capturing lobsters and crabs is like a
cage, and is generally made of wicker work, with an aperture at the top or
the side for the animal to enter by ; it can be baited with any sort of
garbage that is at hand. Having been so baited, the lobster-pot is sunk
into the water, and left for a season, till, tempted by the mess within,
the game enters and is caged. Those who would induce crabs to enter their
pots must set them with fresh bait; lobsters, on the other hand, will look
at nothing but garbage. Very frequently rockcod, saithe, and other fish,
are found to have entered the pots, intent both on foul and fresh food.
Shell-fish for bait can be taken by means of a wooden box or old wicker
basket sunk near a rocky place, and filled with garbage of some kind ; the
whelks and small crabs are sure to patronise the mess extensively, and can
thus be obtained at convenience. It is impossible to tell in the limits of
a brief chapter one half of the fishing wonders that can be accomplished
during a sojourn at the sea-side. A visit to some quaint old fishing town,
on the recurrence of " the year's vacation sabbath," as some of our poets
now call the annual month's holiday, might be made greatly productive of
real knowledge ; there are ten thousand wonders of the shore which can be
studied besides those laid down in books.
As will be noted, I have avoided as much as possible
the naming of localities, preferring to state the general practice. In all
seaside towns and fishing villages there are usually three or four old
fishermen who will be glad to do little favours for the curious in fish
lore-to hire out boats, give the use of tackle, and point out good
localities in which to fish. For such as have a few weeks at their
disposal, I would suggest the western sea-lochs of Scotland as affording
superb sport in all the varieties of sea-angling. Fish of all kinds, great
and small, are to be found in tolerable quantity, and there is likewise
the still greater inducement of fine scenery, cheap lodgings, and moderate
living expenses. But the entire change of scene is the grand medicine ;
nothing would do an exhausted London or Manchester man more good than a
month on Lochfyne, where he could not only angle in the great water for
amusement, but also watch the commercial fishers, and enjoy the finely-flavoured
herring of that loch as a portion of his daily food. If persons in search
of sea-angling wish to combine the enjoyment of picturesque scenery with
their pleasant labours on the water, they cannot do better than select the
rural village of Corry, on the Island of Arran, as a centre from which to
conduct their operations.
Our angler, having arrived at Glasgow, can go down the
Clyde by steamboat direct to Arran. There is another and a quicker way -
viz. by railway to Ardrossan and steamboat to Brodick, but most strangers
prefer the river ; and let me say here, without fear of contradiction,
there is no pleasure river equal to the Clyde, especially as regards
accessibility. The steamers from Glasgow peer at stated intervals into
every nook and cranny of the water, and, on the Saturdays especially,
deposit perfect armies of people at various towns and villages below
Greenock, who are thus enabled to pass the Sunday in the bright open air
by the clear waters of this great stream. Any kind of lodging is put up
with for the sake of being " down the water ;" and all sorts of
people-merchants even of high degree, and " Glasgow -bodies " of lower
social standing-are contented, chiefly no doubt at the instigation of
their better halves, to sojourn in places that when at home they would
think quite unsuitable for even the Matties of their households. The banks
of the Clyde have become wonderfully populous within the last twenty-five
years-villages have expanded into towns, hamlets have grown into villages,
and single cottages into hamlets. Now the railway to Greenock is
insufficient as a daily travelling aid to persons whose half-hours are of
large commercial value ; and as a consequence, a new line of rails has
been constructed to come upon the water at Wemyss Bay, about twelve miles
below Greenock. To your thorough business man time is money, and if lie is
alternately able to leave his place of business and his place of pleasure
half-an-hour later each way, he is all the better pleased with both. To
speculators in want of an idea I would say : Rush to the Clyde, and buy up
every inch of land that can be had within a mile of the water, build upon
it, and from the half million of human beings who tenant Glasgow and the
surrounding towns I will engage to find two competing occupants for every
house that can be put up. Building has progressed even in Arran, and this
too despite the late Duke of Hamilton's dislike to strangers, so that
there is now a population on the island of about 7000. A friend of mine
says that such an important entity as a duke has no right to do as he
likes with his own, and consequently that Arran ought to be built upon,
and blackcocks and other game birds be left to take their chance. Even
with such limited accommodation as can be now obtained, Arran is a
delightful summer residence ; were it to be generally built upon, it would
realise from ground-rents alone an annual fortune to his Grace the Duke of
Hamilton, who owns the greater part of it, and he might have capital
shooting into the bargain.
Arran, I may state to all who are ignorant of the fact,
is a very paradise for geologists ; and amateur globe-makers-persons 'who
think they are better at constructing worlds than the Great Architect who
preceded them all-are particularly fond of that island, being, as they
suppose, quite able to find upon it materiel sufficient for the
erection of the largest possible " theories." Figures, it is said, can be
made to prove either side of a cause ; so can stones. Each geologist can
build up his own pet world from the same set of rocks; and so active
geologists proceed to stucco over with their own compositions" adumbrate "
a friend calls the process-the sublime works of the greatest of all
designers. None of the sciences have given rise to so much controversy as
the science of geology. I make no pretensions to much geologic knowledge,
although I do know a little more than the man who wondered if the granite
boulders which lie saw on a brae-side were oil their way up or down the
hill, and argued that it was a moot point. What I would like to see would
be a good work oil geology, divested entirely of the learned and
scientific slang which usually makes such books entirely useless to
ninety-nine out of every hundred persons who attempt to read them. I would
like, moreover, a work that would not bully us with a ready-made theory.
We had been lauded from the steamboat on a massive grey
boulder, on the sides of which, thick as was the atmosphere, we observed
dozens of limpets and crowds of "buckies," and other sea-ware, giving us
token of ample employment when we could obtain leisure for a more minute
survey of the rocks and stray stones which sprinkle the sea-beach of
Corry. In the meantime, that is just after landing, the great, the
momentous question on this and every other Saturday night is-Is
the inn full q. A hurried scramble over the
jagged stones, and a rush past the very picturesque residence of Mr.
Douglas' pigs, brought us to the inn, and at once decided the question.
Mrs. Jamison, the landlady, shook her lawn-bedizened head-the inn, alas,
was full,
overflowing in fact, for a gentleman had engaged the coach-house ! It was
feared, too, that every house in the village was in a like predicament,
and further inquiry soon confirmed this to us rather awful statement, and
so I was left standing at the inn-door, with a bitingly shrewd companion,
to solve this problem-Given the barest possible accommodation throughout
all Corry for only forty-eight strangers, how to shake fifty into the
village, so that each might have somewhere to lay his head ?
This is a problem, I suspect, that few can answer. What
was to be done ? The steamboat had gone !Were we then to tramp on to
Brodick, with more than a suspicion of a rainy night in the moist
atmosphere, or try a shake-down of clean straw in a lime quarry ? It might
have come to that, and as both of us had before then camped out for a
night by the sheltered side of a haystack, we might have arranged,
fortified by the aid of a dram, or perhaps two, to pass a tolerable night
in the lime cavern beside a very canny-looking horse-of-all-work that we
caught a glimpse of through the gloom of the place while peeping into it.
It fortunately occurred that a modest maiden lady, a
very " civil-spoken " woman indeed, by name Grace Macalister, had been
disappointed of two Glasgow gentlemen, who had engaged her whole house,
and so the two benighted travellers from the east were accepted, at the
instigation of the late Air. Douglas, a wellknown man in Corry, in lieu of
them. Taking possession of our lodgings at once, we formed ourselves into
a committee of supply, which resulted in a prompt expenditure of a sum of
six shillings and threepence, the particulars of which, for the benefit of
my readers, and to show how primitive we had all at once become, I beg to
subjoin-namely, bread, 7d. ; mutton; 2s. 4d. ; butter, 62d. ; tea, 6d. ;
sugar, 3d. ; milk, 2d. ; herring, 2d. This sum, with
eighteenpence added for whisky, threepence for potatoes, and one penny for
a candle, represented the total commissariat expenses of two persons in
Corry for five wholesome but homely meals. Our bed cost us one shilling
each per night, and our attendance and washing were charged at tile rate
of a shilling a day, so long as we used the Hotel Macalister, but even
this did not very much swell the grand total of the bill, which, at such
rates, was by no means heavy at the end of our holiday ramble over Arran,
especially when it is considered that the Arran season does not very
greatly exceed one hundred days. Our quarters were certainly primitive
enough--namely, half of a thatched cottage, or rather hut we may call it,
consisting of one apartment containing two beds, four chairs, a small
table, and a little cupboard. The beds were curtained by a series of blue
striped cotton fragments of three different patterns of all old Scotch
kind, and the walls were papered with five different kinds of paper ; but
the low roof was the greatest treat of all-it was covered with old numbers
of the Witness newspaper, at the time when it was edited by Hugh
Miller, and these had, no doubt, been left in the cottage by previous
travellers. The floor was covered with fragments of canvas laid down as a
carpet. Many tourists would perhaps turn up their noses at this humble
cottage, but to my friend and myself it was a delightful change.
I have not space in which to particularise all the
beauties of Arran, but I must say a word or two about Glen Sannox. Near
the golden beach of Sannox Bay is situated the solitary churchyard of
Corry, with its long grass waving rank over the graves, and its borders of
fuchsias laden with brilliant blossoms. There was, we observed, on peeping
over the wall, a new-made grave, that of an orphan girl who had been
drowned while bathing. Passing the churchyard-there was once a church at
the place, but all trace of it, save one stone built into the wall of the
churchyard, has long passed away-we came upon a brawling stream, which led
us up to the ruins of what had been a Barytesmill. The stones lay around
in great masses, as if they had been suddenly undermined by the passing
stream, and had fallen cemented as they stood. In a year or two they will
be grown over with weeds, and in a century hence some persons may
ingeniously speculate on the ruins, and give a learned disquisition as to
the building that once stood there, and its uses. My friend and I wondered
what it had been, but an old man told us all about it ; and strange to
say, in the course of conversation, we found this old resident reciting
scraps of Ossian's poems. He told us, too, that the bard had died in the
very parish in which we were standing. He believed Ossian to have been a
priest and teacher of the people, and this was an idea that was quite new
to us. We had heard before, or rather read, that the poet was by some
esteemed a great warrior, and by others a necromancer-perhaps to esteem
him a teacher is right enough ; his poems, at any rate, were at one time
as familiar in the mouths of the West Highlanders as household words.
The scenery of Arran would certainly inspire a poet. As
we penetrated into Glen Sannox it became most interesting, whether we
noted the brawling and bubbling brook, or the rich carpet of heath and
wild flowers upon which we trod. The luxuriance of its wild flowers is
remarkable, and of its rabbits equally so. As we proceed up the glen, the
lofty hills with their granitic scars frown down upon us, and one with a
coroneted brow looks kingly among the others, as the mists float upon
their shoulders, like a waving mantle, and with their bold and rugged
precipices they seem as if they had just been suddenly shot out from the
bosom of the earth. Glen Sannox is sublime indeed ; its magnitude is
remarkable, and it is so hemmed in with hills as to look at once, even
without any details, or the aid of history, a fitting hiding-place for the
gallant Bruce and his devoted followers. About three miles north from this
glen we can view-and, we venture to say, not without astonishment - the
falling fragments of the broken mountain ; a stream of large stones that
lie crowded on the declivity of the hill, till they in one long trail
reach the ocean. But to enumerate a tithe even of the scenic and
antiquarian beauties of the island would require-nay, it has obtained, and
more than once-a volume. I could dwell upon the blue rock near Corry, and
picture the overhanging cliffs of the neighbourhood mantled o'er with ivy.
The visitor might enter some of the caves which have been scooped out by
the sea, or wander among the rock pools of the indented shore, rich with
treasures wherewith to feed the greedy eye of the naturalist, and view the
ladies, with kilted coats, doing their daily lessons from Glaucus,
collecting pretty shells, bottling anemones, or gathering sea-weeds
wherewith to ornament their botanic albums. At last, after a long day's
work of wandering and climbing, we long for a quiet seat and a refreshing
cup of tea, and by and by, when the night shuts us out from active labour,
we hie us to our box bed, in order to stretch our wearied limbs in Miss
Macalister's well-lavendered sheets ; and, as we are just attempting to
coax the balmy goddess to close our eyes with her soft fingers, we hear
the landlady in her garret reading her nightly chapter from a Gaelic
Bible, with that droning sound incidental to the West Highland voice.
I have more than once after nightfall passed a quiet
half-hour at our cottage door inhaling the saline breath of the mighty
sea. The look-out at midnight is beautiful: the Cumbrae light looks like a
monitor telling us that even at that dread hour we are watched over. On
the opposite coast of Ayr a huge ironwork throws a lurid glare upon the
bosom of the sea, and almost at my feet the restless waves play a mournful
dirge on the boulder-crowded beach. I could see along the water to Holy
Island, and almost feel the silence which at that moment would render the
cave of old Saint Molio a wondrous place for holding a feast of the
imagination, the viands brought forward from a far-back time, and the
island being again peopled with the quaint races that had passed a brief
span of life upon its shores-who had been warmed by the same sun as had
that day shone upon me, and whose nights had been illumined by the moon
now shimmering its soft radiance upon the liquid bosom of the glittering
waters. |