Description of the Oyster - Controversies about Oyster-Life - Do Oysters
live upside down? - The Spawning of Oysters - Oyster-Growth - When do
Oysters become reproductive for Dredging? - Sergins Orata - Lake Fusaro
- Oyster-Fascines - Ile de Re, and Growth of the Park System - Economy
of the Parks - Greening the Oyster - Oyster-Growth - Spat Collectors -
Miscellaneous Facts.
Zoologically the oyster is known as Ostraea edulis.
Its outward appearance is familiar to even very landward people, and
no human engineer could have invented so admirable a home for the pulpy
and headless mass of jelly that is contained within the rough-looking
shell. Many curious opinions have been held about this shell-fish. At one
time oysters were thought to be only masses of oily or other matter,
scarcely alive and insensible to pain. Who would suppose, it was asked,
that a portion of blubber like the oyster, that could only have been first
eaten by some very courageous individual, would have any feeling? But we
know better now, and although the organisation of the mollusca is not of a
high order, it is perfect of its kind, and has within it indications of
organs that in beings of a higher type serve a loftier purpose, and point
out the beginnings of nature, showing how she works her way from the
simplest imaginings of animal life to the complex human machine. The
oyster has no doubt in its degree many joys and sorrows, and throbs with
life and pleasure, as animals do that have a higher organic structure. The
oyster is curiously constructed; but I fear that, comparatively speaking,
very few of my readers have ever seen a perfect one, as oysters are very
much mutilated, being generally deprived of their beards before they are
sent to table, and otherwise hurt, both accidentally in the opening and by
use and wont, as in the case of the beard. Its mouth—it has no jaws or
teeth—is a kind of trunk or snout, with four lips, and leafy coverings or
gills are spread over the body to act as lungs, and keep from the action
of the water the air which the animal requires for its existence. This
covering is divided into lobes with ciliated edges. Four leaves or
membranous plates act as capillary funnels, open at the farthest
extremities. Behind the gills there is a large whitish fatty part
enclosing the stomach and intestines. The vessels of circulation play into
muscular cavities, which act the part of the heart. The stomach is
situated near the mouth. The oyster has no feet, but can move by opening
and closing its shell, and it secures food by means of its beard, which
acts as a kind of rake. In fact the internal structure of the oyster,
while it is excellently adapted to that animal's mode of life, is
exceedingly simple.
It is not my purpose in the present work to enter into
the minutiae of oyster life. Indeed, there have been so many controversies
about the natural history of this animal as to render it impossible to
narrate in the brief space I can devote to it a tenth part of what has
been written or spoken about the life and habits of the " broody
creature." Every stage of its growth has been made the stand-point for a
wrangle of some kind. As an example of the keenness with which each stage
of oyster life is now being discussed, I may mention that some years ago a
most amusing squabble broke out in the pages of the Field newspaper on an
immaterial point of oyster life, which is worth noting here as an example
of what can be said on either side of a question. The controversy hinged
upon whether an oyster while on the bed lay on the flat or convex side.
Mr. Frank Buckland, who originated the dispute, maintained that the right,
proper, and natural position of the oyster, when at the bottom of the sea,
is with the flat shell downwards; but the natural position of the oyster
is of no practical importance whatever; and I know, from personal
observation of the beds at Newhaven and Cockenzie, that oysters lie both
ways,-indeed, with a dozen or two of dredges tearing over the beds it is
impossible but that they must lie quite higgledy-piggledy, so to speak. A
great deal that is incidentally interesting was brought up in the Field
discussion. There have been several other disputes about points in the
natural history of the oysters-one in particular as to whether that animal
is provided with organs of vision. Various opinions have been enunciated
as to whether an oyster has eyes, and one author asserts that it has so
many as twenty-four, which again is denied, and the assertion made that
the so-called eyes projecting from the border of the mantle have no
optical power whatever ; but, be that as it may, the oyster has a power of
knowing the light from the dark.
As is well known, there is a period every year during
which the oyster is not fished ; and the reason why our English
oyster-beds have not been ruined or exhausted by over fishing arises,
among other causes, from there being a definite close-time assigned to the
breeding of the mollusc. It would be well if the larger varieties of sea
produce were equally protected ; for it is sickening to observe the
countless numbers of unseasonable fish that are from time to time brought
to Billingsgate and other markets, and greedily purchased. The fact that
oysters are supplied only during certain months in the year, and that the
public have a general corresponding notion that they are totally unfit for
food during May, June, July, and August (those four wretched months which
have not the letter "r" in their names), has been greatly in their favour.
Had there been no period of rest, it is almost certain that oysters would
long ago -I allude to the days when there was no system of cultivation
-have become extinct.
Oysters begin to sicken about the end of April, so that
it is well that their grand rest commences in May. The shedding of the
spawn continues during the whole of the hot monthsnot but that during that
period there may be found supplies of healthy oysters, but, as a general
rule, it is better that there should be a total cessation of the trade
during the summer season, because were the beds disturbed by a search for
the healthy oysters the spawn would be scattered and destroyed.
Oysters do not leave their ova, like many other marine
creatures, but incubate them in the folds of their mantle, and among the
lamina; of their lungs. There the ova remain surrounded by mucous matter,
which is necessary to their development, and within which they pass
through the embryo state. The mass of ova, or "spat" as it is familiarly
called, undergoes various changes in its colour, meanwhile losing its
fluidity. This state indicates, it has been said, the near termination of
the development and the sending forth of the embryo to an independent
existence, for by this time the young oysters can live without the
protection of the maternal organs. An eminent French pisciculturist says
that the animated matter escaping from the adults on breeding-banks is
like a thick mist being dispersed by the winds-the spat is so scattered by
the waves that only an imperceptible portion remains near the parent
stock. All the rest is dissipated over the sea space ; and if these
myriads of animalculae, tossed by the waves, do not meet with solid bodies
to which they can attach themselves, their destruction is certain, for if
they do not fall victims to the larger animals which prey upon them, they
are unfortunate in not fixing upon the proper place for their thorough
development.
Thus we see that the spawn of the oyster is well
matured before it leaves the protection of the parental shell ; and by the
aid of the microscope the young animal can be seen with its shell perfect
and its holding-on apparatus, which is also a kind of swimming-pad, ready
to clutch the first "coigne of vantage" that the current may carry it
against. My " theory " is, that the parent oyster goes on brewing
its spawn for some time-I have seen it oozing from the same animal for
some days-and it is supposed that the spawn swims about with the current
for a short period before it falls, being in the meantime devoured by
countless sea animals of all kinds. The operation of nursing, brewing, and
exuding the spat from the parental shell will occupy a considerable
period-say from two to four weeks. It is quite certain that the close-time
for oysters is necessary and advantageous, for we seldom find this mollusc,
as we do the herring and other fish, full of eggs, so that most of the
operations connected with its reproduction go on in the months during
which there is no dredging. As I have indicated, immense quantities of the
spawn of oysters are annually devoured by other molluscs, and by fish and
crustaceans of various sizes ; it is well, therefore, that it is so
bountifully supplied. On occasions of visiting the beds I have seen the
dredge covered with this spawn ; and no pen could number the thousands of
millions of oysters thus prevented from ripening into life. Economists
ought to note this fact with respect to fish generally, for the enormous
destruction of spawn of all kinds must exercise a very serious influence
on our fish supplies. I may also note that the state of the weather has a
serious influence on the spawn and on the adult oyster-power of spawning.
A cold season is very unfavourable, and a decidedly cold day will kill the
spat.
Some
people have asserted that the oyster can reproduce its kind in twenty
weeks, and that in ten months it is fullgrown. Both of these assertions
are pure nonsense. At the age of three months an oyster is not much bigger
than a pea, and the age at which reproduction begins has never been
accurately ascertained, but it is thought to be three years. I give here
one or two illustrations of oystergrowth in order to show the ratio of
increase. The smallest, about the
dimensions
of a pin's head, may be called a fortnight old. The next size represents
the oyster as it appears when three months old. The other sizes are drawn
at the ages of five, eight, and twelve months respectively. Oysters are
usually four years old before they are sent to the London market. At the
age of five years the oyster is, I think, in its prime ; and some of our
most intelligent fishermen think its average duration of life to be ten
years.
In
these days of oyster-farming the time at which the oyster becomes
reproductive may be easily fixed, and it will no doubt be found to vary in
different localities. At some places it becomes saleable-chiefly, however,
for fattening in the course of two years ; at other places it is three or
four years before it becomes a saleable commodity; but on the average it
will be quite safe to assume that at four years the oyster is both ripe
for sale and able for the reproduction of its kind. Let us hope that the
breeders will take care to have at least one brood from each batch before
they offer any for sale. Oyster-farmers should keep before them the folly
of the salmon-fishers, who kill their grilse - i.e. the virgin fish
-before they have an opportunity of perpetuating their race.
Another point on which naturalists differ is as to the
quantity of spawn from each oyster. Some enumerate the young by thousands,
others by millions. It is certain enough that the number of young is
prodigious-so great, in fact, as to prevent their all being contained in
the parent shell at one time ; but I do not believe that an oyster yields
its young " in millions "perhaps half a million is on the average the
amount of spat which each oyster can "brew" in one season. I have examined
oyster-spawn (taken direct from the oyster) by means of a powerful
microscope, and find it to be a liquid of some little consistency, in
which the young oysters, like the points of a hair, swim actively about,
in great numbers, as many as a thousand having been counted in a very
minute globule of spat. The spawn, as found floating on the water, is
greenish in appearance, and each little splash may be likened to an oyster
nebula, which resolves itself, when examined by a powerful glass, into a
thousand distinct animals.
The oyster, it is now pretty well determined, is
hermaphrodite, and it is very prolific, as has been already observed, but
the enormous fecundity of the animal is largely detracted from by bad
seasons ; for, unless the spawning season be mild, soft, and warm, there
is usually a very partial full of spat, and
of course quite a scarcity of brood ; and even if one be the proprietor of
a large bed of oysters, there is no security for the spawn which is
emitted from the oysters on that bed falling upon it, or within the bounds
of one's own property even ; it is often enough the case that the spawn
falls at a considerable distance from the place where it has been emitted.
Thus the spawn from the Whitstable and Faversham Oyster Companies' beds -
and these contain millions of oysters in various stages of progress -falls
usually on a large piece of ground between Whitstable and the Isle of
Thanet, formerly common property, but lately given by Act of
Parliament to a company recently formed for the breeding of oysters. The
saving of the spawn cannot be effected unless it falls on proper ground -
i.e. ground with a shelly bottom is best, for the infant animal is sure to
perish if it fall among mud or upon sand ; the infant oyster must obtain a
holding-on place as the first condition of its own existence. Oysters have
not on the aggregate spawned extensively during late years. The greatest
fall of spawn ever known in England occurred forty-six years ago. On being
exuded from the parental shell, the spawn of the oyster at once rises to
the surface, where its vitality is easily affected, and it is often killed
in certain places by snow-water or ice. A genial warmth of sunshine and
water is considered highly favourable to its proper development during the
few days it floats about on the surface. It is thought that not more than
one oyster out of each million arrives at maturity. It is curious to note
that some oysters have immense shells with very little " meat " in them. I
recently saw in a restaurant several oysters, much larger externally than
crownpieces, with the " meat " about the size of a sixpence: these were
Firth of Forth oysters from Cockenzie. It is not easy to determine from
the external size of the animal the amount of " meat " it will
yield-apparently, " the bigger the oyster the smaller the meat." In the
early part of the season only very small oysters are sold in Edinburgh-the
reason assigned being that all the best dredgers are " away at the
herring," and that the persons left behind at the oyster-beds are only
able to skim them, so that, for a period of about six weeks, we merely
obtain the small fry that are lying on the top. It is quite certain that
as the season advances the oysters obtained are larger and of more decided
flavour. In the "natives" obtained at Whitstable the shell and the meat
are pretty much in keeping as to size, and this is an advantage.
The Abbé Diquemarc, who has keenly observed the habits
of the principal mollusca, assures us that oysters, when free, are
perfectly able to transport themselves from one place to another, by
simply causing the sea-water to enter and emerge suddenly from between
their valves ; and these they use with extreme rapidity and great force.
By means of the operation now described, the oyster is enabled to defend
itself from its enemies among the minor crustacea, particularly the small
crabs, which endeavour to enter the shell when it is half open. "Some
naturalists," the Abbé says, "go the length of allowing the oyster to have
great foresight," which he illustrates by an allusion to the habits of
those found at the sea-side. "These oysters," he says, "exposed to the
daily change of tides, appear to be aware that they are likely to be
exposed to dryness at certain recurring periods, and so they preserve
water in their shells to supply their wants when the tide is at ebb. This
peculiarity renders them more easy of transportation to remote distances
than those members of the family which are caught at a considerable
distance from the shore."
The secret of there being only a holding-on place
required for the spat of the oyster to insure an immensely-increased
supply having been penetrated by the French people-and no doubt they are
in some degree indebted to our oyster-beds on the Colne and at Whitstable
for their idea-the plan of systematic oyster-culture was easy enough, as I
will immediately show. A few initiatory experiments, in fact, speedily
settled that oysters could be grown in any quantity. Strong pillars of
wood were driven into the mud and sand ; arms were added; the whole was
interlaced with branches of trees, and various boughs besides were hung
over the beds on ropes and chains, whilst others were sunk in the water
and kept down by a weight. A few boat-loads of oysters being laid down,
the spat had no distance to travel in search of a home, but found a
resting-place almost at the moment of being exuded; and, as the fairy
legends say, " it grew and it grew," till, in the fulness of time, it
became a marketable commodity.
But the history of this modern phase of oyster-farming,
as practised on the foreshores of France, is so interesting as to demand
at my hands a rather detailed notice, for it is one of the most noteworthy
circumstances connected with the revived art of fish-culture, that it has
resulted in placing upon the shores of France a countless number of
fish-farms for the cultivation of the oyster alone.
It is no exaggeration to say, that about twenty-five
years ago there was scarcely an oyster of native growth in France ; the
beds-and I cite the case of France as a warning to people at home, I mean
as regards our Scottish oyster-beds-had become so exhausted from
overdredging as to be unproductive, so far as their money value was
concerned, and to be totally unable to recover themselves so far as their
power of reproductiveness was at stake. And the people were consequently
in despair at the loss of this favourite adjunct of their banquets, and
had to resort to other countries for such small supplies as they could
obtain. As an illustration of the overdredging that had prevailed, it may
be stated that oyster-farms which formerly employed 1400 men, with 200
boats, and yielded an annual revenue of 400,000 francs, had become so
reduced as to require only 100 men and 20 boats. Places where at one time
there had been as many as fifteen oyster-banks, and great prosperity among
the fisher class, had become, at the period I allude to, almost oysterless.
St. Brieuc, Rochelle, Marennes, Rochefort, etc., had all suffered so much
that those interested in the fisheries were no longer able to stock the
beds, thus proving that, notwithstanding the great fecundity of these sea
animals, it is quite possible to overfish them, and thoroughly exhaust
their reproductive power. It was under these circumstances that M. Coste
instituted that plan of oyster-culture which has been so much noticed of
late in the scientific journals, and which appears to have been inspired
by the plan of the musselfarms in the Bay of Aiguillon, and the
oyster-pares of Lake Fusaro, so far at least as the principle of
cultivation is concerned. At the instigation of the French Government, he
made a voyage of exploration round the coasts of France and Italy, in
order to inquire into the condition of the sea-fisheries, which were, it
was thought, in a declining condition. It was his "mission," and he
fulfilled it very well, to see how these marine fisheries could be
artificially aided, as the fresh-water fisheries had been aided through
the re-discovery by Joseph Remy of the long-forgotten plan of pisciculture,
as already detailed in a preceding portion of this work.
The breeding of oysters was a business pursued with
great assiduity during what I have called the gastronomic age of Italy,
the period when Lucullus kept a stock of fish valued at £50,000 sterling,
and Sergius Orata invented the art of oysterculture. There is not a great
deal known about this ancient gentleman, except that he was an epicure of
most refined taste (the " master of luxury " he was called in his own
day), and some writers of the period thought him a very greedy person, a
kind of dealer in shell-fish. It was thought also that he was a
housebroker or person who bought or built houses, and having improved
them, sold them to considerable advantage. He received, however, an
excellent character, while standing his trial for using the public waters
of Lake Lucrinus for his own private use, from his advocate Lucinus
Crassus, who said that the revenue officer who prevented Orata was
mistaken if he thought that gentleman would dispense with his oysters,
even if he was driven from the Lake of Lucrinus, for, rather than not
enjoy his molluscous luxury, he would grow them on the tops of his houses.
Lake Fusaro, of which I give a kind of bird's-eye view,
is highly interesting to all who take an interest in the prosperity of the
fisheries, as the first seat of oyster-culture. It is the Avernus of
Virgil, and is a black volcanic-looking pool of water, about a league in
circumference, which lies between the site of the Lucrine Lake-the lake
used by Orata - and the ruins of the town of Cumae. It is still extant,
being even now, as I have said, devoted to the highly profitable art of
oyster-farming, yielding, as has often been published, from this source an
annual revenue of about £1200. This classic sheet of water was at one time
surrounded by the villas of the wealthy Italians, who frequented the place
for the joint benefit of the sea-water baths, and the shell-fish
commissariat, which had been established in the two lakes (Avernus and
Lucrine). The place, which, before then, was overshadowed by thick
plantations, had been consecrated by the superstitious to the use of the
infernal gods.
The mode of oyster-breeding at this place, then as now,
was to erect artificial pyramids of stones in the water, surrounded by
stakes of wood, in order to intercept the spawn, the oyster being laid
down on the stones. I have shown these modes in the accompanying
engravings. Faggots of branches were also
The accompanying engraving gives a general view of Lake
Fusaro (the Avernus of the ancients), showing here and there the stakes
surrounding the artificial banks, the single and double ranges of stakes
on which the faggots are suspended, and at one extremity the labyrinths,
in the face of which is a canal of from 2y' to 3 metres broad and 1 1/2
metre deep joining the lake to the sea. A small lake, believed to be the
ancient Cocytus, communicates with this canal. The pavilion in the lake is
the ordinary residence of the persons in charge of the fishery.
used to collect the spawn, which, as I have already
said, requires, within forty-eight hours of its emission, to secure a
holding-on place or be lost for ever. The plan of the Fusaro
oyster-breeders struck M. Coste as being eminently practical and suitable
for imitation on the coasts of France: he had one of the stakes pulled up,
and was gratified to find it covered with oysters of all ages and sizes.
The Lake Fusaro system of cultivation was therefore, at the instigation of
Professor Coste, strongly recommended for imitation by the French
Government to the French people, as being the most suitable to follow, and
experiments were at once entered upon with a view to prove whether it
would be as practicable to cultivate oysters as easily among the agitated
waves of the open sea as in the quiet waters of Fusaro. In order to settle
this point, it was determined to renew the old oyster-beds in the Bay of
St. Brieuc, and notwithstanding the fact that the water there is
exceedingly deep and the winds very violent, immediate and almost
miraculous success was the result.
The fascines laid down soon became covered with seed,
and branches were speedily exhibited at Paris, and other places,
containing thousands of young oysters. The experiments in oysterculture
tried at St. Brieuc were commenced early, on part of a space of 3000 acres
that was deemed suitable for the reception of spat. A quantity of breeding
oysters, approaching to three millions, was laid down either on the old
beds or on newly-constructed longitudinal banks ; these were sown thick on
a bottom composed chiefly of immense quantities of old shells-the "middens"
of Cancale in fact, where the shell accumulation had become a nuisance-so
that there was a more than ordinary good chance for the spat finding at
once a proper holding-on place. Then again, over some of the new banks,
fascines made of boughs tightly tied together were sunk and chained over
the beds, so as to intercept such portions of the spawn as were likely,
upon rising, to be carried away by the force of the tide. In less than six
months the success of the operation in the Bay of St. Brieuc was assured ;
for, at the proper season, a great fall of spawn had occurred, and the
bottom shells were covered with the spat, while the fascines were so
thickly coated with young oysters that an estimate of 20,000 for each
fascine was not thought an exaggeration.
Twelve months, however, before the date of the
experiments I have been describing at St. Brieuc, the artificial culture
of oysters had successfully commenced on another part of the coast-namely,
the Ile de Re off the shore of the lower Charente (near la Rochelle), in
the Bay of Biscay, which may now be designated the capital of French
oysterdom, having more parcs and claires than Marennes,
Arcachon, Concarneau, Cancale, and all the rest of the coast put together,
and which, before it became celebrated for its oyster-growing, was only
known, in common with other places in France, for its successful culture
of the vine. It is curious to note the rapid growth of the industry of
oyster-culture on the Ile de Re. It was begun so recently as 1858, and
there are now upwards of 4000 parks and claires upon its shores, and the
people may be seen as busy in their fish-parks as the market-gardeners of
Kent in their strawberrybeds. Oyster-farming on the Ile was inaugurated by
one Boeuf, a stone-mason. This shrewd fellow, who was a keen observer of
nature, and had seen the oyster-spat grow to maturity, began thinking of
oyster-culture simultaneously with Professor Coste, and wondering if it
could be carried out on those portions of the public foreshore that were
left dry by the ebb of the waters. He determined to try the experiment on
a small scale, so as to obtain a practical solution of his " idea," and,
with this view, he enclosed a small portion of the foreshore of the island
by building a rough dyke about eighteen inches in height. In this park lie
laid down a few bushels of growing oysters, placing amongst them a
quantity of large stones, which he gathered out of the surrounding mud.
This initiatory experiment was so successful, that in the course of a year
he was able to sell £6 worth of oysters from his stock. This result was of
course very encouraging to the enterprising mason, and the money was just
in a sense found money, for the oysters went on growing while he was at
work at his own proper business as a mason. Elated by the profit of his
experiment, he proceeded to double the proportions of his park, and by
that means more than doubled his oyster commerce, for, in 1861, he was
able to dispose of upwards of £30 worth, and this without impoverishing,
in the least degree, his breeding stock. He continued to increase the
dimensions of his farm, so that by 1862 his sales had increased to £40. As
might have been expected, Boeuf's neighbours had been carefully watching
his experiments, uttering occasional sneers, no doubt, at his enthusiasm ;
but, for all that, quite ready to go and do likewise whenever the success
of the industrious mason's experiments became sufficiently developed to
show that they were profitable as well as practical. After Boeuf had
demonstrated the practicability of oyster-farming, the extension of the
system over the foreshores of the island, between Point de Rivedoux and
Point de Lome, was rapid and effective ; so much so that two hundred beds
were conceded by the Government previous to 1859, while an additional five
hundred beds were speedily laid down, and in 1860 large quantities of
brood were sold to the oyster-farmers at Marennes, for the purpose of
being manufactured into green oysters in their claires on the banks of the
river Seudre. The first sales after cultivation had become general
amounted to £126, and the next season the sum reached in sales was upwards
of £500, and these monies, be it observed, were for very young oysters ;
because, from an examination of the dates, it will at once be seen that
the brood had not had time to grow to any great size. So rapid indeed has
been the progress of oyster-culture at the Ile de Re, that what were
formerly a series of enormous and unproductive mud-banks, occupying a
stretch of shore about four leagues in length, are now so trans-formed,
and the whole place so changed, that it seems the work of a miracle.
Various gentlemen who have inspected these farms for the cultivation of
oysters speak with great hopefulness about the success of the experiment.
Mr. Ashworth, so well known for his success as a salmon fisher and breeder
in Ireland, tells me that oyster-farming on the shores of the French coast
is one of the greatest industrial facts of the present age, and thinks
that oyster-farming will in the end be even more profitable than
salmon-breeding. There is only one drawback connected with these and all
other sea-farms in France : the farmers, we regret to say, are only
"tenants at will," [Mr. Ashworth, in a communication to Mr. Barry, one of
the Commissioners of Irish Fisheries, says-"No charge is made for the
oyster-parks, but each plot is marked and defined on a map, and the
produce is considered to be the private property of the person who
establishes it. They vary in size twenty or thirty yards square, the stone
or tiles are placed in rows about five feet apart, with the ends open so
as to admit of the wash of the tide in and out."] and liable at any moment
to be ejected ; but notwithstanding this disadvantage the work of
oyster-culture still goes bravely forward, and it is calculated, in spite
of the bad spatting of the last three years, that there is a stock of
oysters in the beds on the Ile de Reaccumulated in only six years-of the
value of upwards of £100,000.
Much hard work had no doubt to be endured before such a
scene of industry could be thoroughly organised. When the great success of
Boeuf's experiments had been proclaimed in the neighbourhood, a little
army of about a thousand labourers came down from the interior of the
country and took possession, along with the native fishermen, of the
shores, portions of which were conceded to them by the French Government
at a nominal rent of about a franc a week, for the purpose of being
cultivated as oyster parks and claires. The most arduous duty of these men
consisted in clearing off the mud, which lay on the shore in large
quantities, and which is fatal to the oyster in its early stages ; but
this had to be done before the shores could be turned to the purpose for
which they were wished. After this preliminary business had been
accomplished, the rocks had to be blasted in order to find stones for the
construction of the park-walls ; then these had to be built, and the
ground had also to be paved in a rough-and-ready kind of way ; foot-roads
had also to be arranged for the convenience of the farmers, and
carriage-ways had likewise to be made to admit of the progress of vehicles
through the different farms. Ditches had to be contrived to carry off the
mud ; the parks had to be stocked with breeding oysters, and to be kept
carefully free from the various kinds of sea animals that prey upon the
oyster ; and many other daily duties had to be performed that demanded the
minute attention of the owners. But all obstacles were in time overcome,
and some of the breeders have been so very
successful of late years as to be offered a sum of £100
for the brood attached to twelve of their rows of stones, the cost of
laying these down being about two hundred francs! To construct an
oyster-bed thirty yards square costs about £12 of English money, and it
has been calculated that the return from some of the beds haa been as high
as 1000 per cent! The whole industry of the Ile is wonderful when it is
considered that it has been all organised in a period of seven years.
Except a few privately-kept oysters, there was no oyster establishment on
the island previous to 1858.
Some gentlemen from the island of Jersey who visited Re
report that an incredible quantity of oysters has been produced on that
shore, which a few years ago was of no value, so that this branch of
industry now realises an extraordinary revenue, and spreads comfort among
a large number of families who were previously in a state of comparative
indigence. But more interesting even than the material prosperity that has
attended the introduction of this industry into the island of Re
is the moral success that has accrued to the
experiment. Excellent laws have been enacted by the oyster-farmers
themselves for the government of the colony. A kind of parliament has been
devised for carrying on arguments as to oyster-culture, and to enable the
four communities, into which the population has been divided, to
communicate to each other such information as may be found useful for the
general good of all engaged in oyster-farming. Three delegates from each
of the communities are elected to conduct the general business, and to
communicate with the Department of Marine when necessary.
A small payment is made by every farmer as a
contribution to the general expense, while each division of the community
employs a special watchman to guard the crops, and see that all goes on
with propriety and good faith ; and although each of the oyster-farmers of
the Ile de Re cultivates his own park or claire for his own sole profit
and advantage, they most willingly obey the general laws that have been
enacted for the good of the community. It is pleasant to note this. We
cannot help being gratified at the happy moral results of this wonderful
industry, and it will readily be supposed that with both vine-culture (for
the islanders have fine vineyards) and oyster-culture to attend to, these
farmers are kept very busy. Indeed, the growing commerce-the export of the
oysters, and the import of other commodities for the benefit of so
industrious a population-incidental to such an immense growth of shellfish
as can be carried on in the 4000 parks and claires which stud the
foreground of Re must be arduous ; but as the labour is highly
remunerative, the labourers have great cause for thankfulness. It is
right, however, to state that, with all the care that can be exercised,
there is still an enormous amount of waste consequent on the artificial
system of culture; the present calculation is, that even with the best
possible mode of culture the average of reproduction is as yet only
fourteenfold; but it is hoped by those interested that a much larger ratio
of increase will be speedily attained. This is desirable, as prices have
gone on steadily increasing since the time that Boeuf first experimented.
In 1859 the sales were effected at about the rate of fifteen shillings per
bushel, for the lowest qualities-the highest being double that price ;
these were for fattening in the claires, and when sold again they brought
from two to three pounds per bushel.
One of the most lucrative branches of foreign
oyster-farming may be now described - i.e. the manufacture of the
celebrated green oysters. The greening of oysters, many of which are
brought from the Ile de Re parks, is extensively carried on at Marennes,
on the banks of the river Seudre, and this particular branch of oyster
industry, which extends for leagues along the river, and is also
sanctioned by free grants from the State, has some features that are quite
distinct from those we have been considering, as the green oyster is of
considerably more value than the common white oyster. The peculiar colour
and taste of the green oyster are imparted to it by the vegetable
substances which grow in the beds where it is manipulated. This statement,
however, is scarcely an answer to the question of "why," or rather "how,"
do the oysters become green? Some people maintain that the oyster green is
a disease of the liver-complaint kind, whilst there are others who
attribute the green colour to a parasite that overgrows the mollusc. But
the mode of culture adopted is in itself a sufficient answer to the
question. The industry carried on at Marennes consists chiefly of the
fattening in claires, and the oysters operated upon are at one period of
their lives as white as those which are grown at any other place; indeed
it is only after being steeped for a year or two in the muddy ponds of the
river Seudre that they attain their much-prized green hue. The enclosed
ponds for the manufacture of these oysters-and, according to all epicurean
authority, the green oyster becomes "the oyster par excellence" require to
be water-tight, for they are not submerged by the sea, except during very
high tides. Each claire is about one hundred feet square. The walls for
retaining the waters require therefore to be very strong; they are
composed of low but broad banks of earth, five or six feet thick at the
base and about three feet in height. These walls are also useful as
forming a promenade on which the watchers or workers can walk to and fro
and view the different ponds. The flood-gates for the admission of the
tide require also to be thoroughly watertight and to fit with great
precision, as the stock of oysters must always be kept covered with water
; but a too frequent flow of the tide over the ponds is not desirable,
hence the walls, which serve the double purpose of both keeping in and
keeping out the water. A trench or ditch is cut in the inside of each pond
for the better collection of the green slime left at each flow of the
tide, and many tidal inundations are necessary before the claire is
thoroughly prepared for the reception of its stock. When all these matters
of construction and slime-collecting have been attended to, the oysters
are then scattered over the ground, and left to fatten. When placed in
these greening claires they are usually from twelve to sixteen months old,
and they must remain for a period of two years at least before they can be
properly greened, and if left a year longer they are all the better; for I
maintain that an oyster should be at least about four years old before it
is sent to table. In a privately-printed pamphlet on the French
oyster-fisheries, sent to me by Mr. Ashworth, it is stated that oysters
deposited in the claires for feeding possess the same powers of
reproduction as those kept in the breedingponds. " Their progeny is
deposited in the same profusion, but that progeny not coming in contact
with any solid body, it inevitably perishes, unless it can attach itself
to the vertical sides of some erection." A very great deal of attention
must be devoted to the oysters while they are in the greening-pond, and
they must be occasionally shifted from one pond to another to ensure
perfect success. Many of the oyster-farmers of Marennes have two or three
claires suitable for their purpose. The trade in these green oysters is
very large, and they are found to be both palatable and safe, the greening
matter being furnished by the sea. Some of the breeders, or rather
manufacturers, of green oysters, anxious to be soon rich, content
themselves with placing adult oysters only in these claires, and these
become green in a very short time, and thus enable the operator to have
several crops in a year without very much trouble. The claires of Marennes
furnish about fifty millions of green oysters per annum, and these are
sold at very remunerative prices, yielding an annual revenue of something
like two and a half millions of francs.
As to the kind of ground
most suitable for oyster-growth, Dr. Kemmerer, of St. Martin's (Ile de
Re), an enthusiast in oyster-culture, gives us a great many useful hints.
I have summarised a portion of his information :-The artificial culture of
the oyster may be considered to have solved an important question-namely,
that the oyster continues fruitful after it is transplanted from its
natural abode in the deep sea to the shores. This removal retards but
never hinders fecundation. The sea oyster, however, is the most prolific,
as the water at a considerable depth is always tranquil, which is a
favourable point in oyster-growth ; but the shore oyster-banks will also
be very productive, having two chances of replenishment-namely, from the
parent oysters in the pares, and from those currents that may float seed
from banks in the sea. Muddy ground is excellent for the growth of oysters
; they grow in such localities very quickly, and become saleable in a
comparatively short space of time. Dry rocky ground is not so suitable for
the young oyster, as it does not find a sufficiency of food upon it, and
consequently languishes and dies. Marl is the most esteemed, and on it the
oyster is said to become perfect in form and excellent in flavour. In the
marl the young oyster finds plenty of food, constant heat, and perfect
quiet. Wherever there is mud and sun there will be
found the little molluscs, crustacea, and swimming
infusoria, which are the food of the oyster. The culture of the oyster in
the mud-ponds and in the marl-a culture which ought some day to become
general-changes completely its qualities ; the albumen becomes fatty,
yellow or green, oily, and of an exquisite flavour. The animal and
phosphorus matter increases, as does the osmozone. This oyster, when fed,
becomes exquisite food. In effecting the culture of the sea-shores and of
the marl-ponds, I am pursuing a practical principle of great importance,
by the conversion of millions of shore oysters, squandered without profit,
into food for public consumption. The green oyster, to this day, has only
been regarded as a luxury for the tables of the rich; but, as I have
indicated, there are an immense number of farms or ponds on the Seudre,
and I would like to see it used as food by everyone."
The French oyster-farmers are happy
and prosperous. The wives assist their husbands in all the lighter
labours, such as separating and arranging the oysters previous to their
being placed on the claires. It is also their duty to sell the oysters;
and for this purpose they leave their home about the end of August, and
proceed to a particular town, there to await and dispose of such
quantities of shell-fish as their husbands may forward to them. In this
they resemble the fisherwomen of other countries. The Scotch fishwives do
all the business connected with the trade carried on by their husbands ;
it is the husbands' duty to capture the fish only, and the moment they
come ashore their duties cease, and those of their wives and daughters
begin with the sale and barter of the fish.
Before going farther, it may be
stated that the best mode of receiving the spawn of the oyster has not
been determined. M. Coste, whose advice is well worthy of being followed,
recommended the adoption of fascines of brushwood to be fixed over the
natural oyster-beds in order to intercept the young ones; others again, as
we have just seen, have adopted the pares, and have successfully caught
the spawn on dykes constructed for that purpose; but Dr. Kemmerer has
invented a tile, which lie covers with some kind of composition that can,
when occasion requires, be easily peeled off, so that the crop of oysters
that may be gathered upon it can be transferred from place to place with
the greatest possible ease, and this plan is useful for the transference
of the oyster from the collecting
parc to the fattening claire.
The annexed drawing will give an idea of the Doctor's invention. The
composition and the adhering oyster may all be stripped off in one piece,
and the tile may be coated for future use. Tiles are exceedingly useful in
aiding the oysterbreeder to avoid the natural enemies of the oyster, which
are very numerous, especially at the periods when it is young and tender.
The oysters may be peeled off the tiles when they are six or seven months
old. Spat-collectors of wood have also been tried with considerable
success. Hitherto these tiles have been very successful, although it is
thought by experienced breeders that no
bottom for oysters is so good as the
natural one of "cultch," as the old oyster-shells are called, but the tile
is often of service in catching the "floatsome," as the dredgers call the
spawn, and to secure that should be one of the first objects of the
oyster-farmer.
We glean from these proceedings of
the French pisciculturists the most valuable lessons for the improvement
and conduct of our British oyster-parks. If, as seems to be pretty
certain, each matured oyster yields about two millions of young per annum,
and if the greater proportion of these can be saved by being afforded a
permanent resting-place, it is clear that, by laying down a few thousand
breeders, we may, in the course of a year or two, have, at any place we
wish, a large and reproductive oyster-farm. With reference to the question
of growth, Coste tells us that stakes which had been fixed for a period of
thirty months in the lake of Fusaro were quite loaded with oysters when
they came to be removed. These were found to embrace a growth of three
seasons. Those of the first year's spawning were ready for the market ;
the second year's brood were a good deal smaller; whilst the remainder
were not larger than a lentil. To attain miraculous crops similar to those
once achieved in the Bay of St. Brieuc, or at the Ile de Re, little more
is required than to lay down the spawn in a nice rocky bay, or in a place
paved for the purpose, and having as little mud about it as possible. A
place having a good stream of water flowing into it is the most desirable,
so that the flock may procure food of a varied and nutritious kind. A
couple of hundred stakes driven into the soft places of the shore, between
high and low water mark, and these well supplied with branches held
together by galvanised iron wire (common rope might soon become rotten),
would, in conjunction with the rocky ground, afford capital holding-on
places, so that any quantity of spawn might, in time, be developed into
fine "natives." There are hundreds of places on the English and Irish
coasts where such farms could be advantageously laid down.
Since the previous editions of this
work were issued, bad news has been received about the French oyster
farms, many of them having become exhausted through the greed of their
proprietors, who at an early period began to kill the goose for the sake
of its golden egg, a calamity that seems to be too frequently an attendant
consequence of the present system of fishing economy. In the year 1863, as
far as I can ascertain, the artificial system culminated at the Ile de
Re, and since then the beds have yearly become less prolific.
A great amount of the miscellaneous
information regarding oyster-growth and oyster-commerce, which has been
circulated during the last five years, is not of a reliable nature ; but
many of the circumstances attendant on artificial culture are interesting,
and have been proved to be correct, although they seem contradictory : as,
for instance, that oysters if spawned on a muddy bottom are lost, although
the same muddy bottom is highly suitable for the feeding 'stages of the
mollusc. It is also remarkable that breeding oysters do not fatten, and
that fat oysters yield no spat. There has been some controversy as
to whether transplanted oysters will breed; opinions differ, and it is on
record that such a remarkable spat once fell on the Whitstable grounds as
to provide a stock for eleven years, including, of course; what was
gathered towards the end of that period. A close time for oysters is a law
of the land ; but for all that we might have-indeed, we have now-oysters
all the year round, because all oysters do not sicken or spat at
the same period; in fact the economy of fish growth is not yet understood
either by naturalists or fishermen; as an instance of mal-economy we have
salmon rivers closed at the very time they ought to be open, some rivers
being remarkable for early spawning fish, whilst others are equally so for
the tardiness with which their scaly inhabitants repeat the story of their
birth. In time, when we understand better how to manage our fisheries, the
supplies of all kinds of round and shell fish will doubtless be better
regulated than at present.
The following theory of the spat was
promulgated by the author through the columns of the Times:- " In
an open expanse of sea the spat may be carried to great distances by tidal
influence, or a sharp breeze upon the water may waft the oyster-seed many
a long mile away. Every bed has its own time of spatting thus, one
of a series of scalps may be spatting on a fine warm day, when the sea is
like glass, so that the spat cannot fail to fall; while on another portion
of the beds the spat may fall on a windy day, be thus left to the tender
mercy of a fiercely receding tide, and so be lost, or fall mayhap on
ungenial bottom a long way from the shore. On the Isle of Oleron, which
supplies the green oyster breeders of Marennes with such large quantities,
it is quite certain that in the course of the summer a friendly -wave
will waft large quantities of spat into the artificial pares, when it is
known that the oysters in these pares have not spawned. Where does this
foreign spat come from ? The men say it comes off some of the natural beds
of the adjoining sea-is driven in by the tide, and finds a welcome
resting-place on the artificial receivers of their pares. It is altogether
an erroneous idea to suppose that there are some seasons when the oyster
does not spat, because of the cold weather, etc. Some of the pares had
spatted at Arcachon this year [1866] in very ungenial weather. The
spatting of the oyster does not depend on the weather at all, but the
destination of the spat does, because if the tiny seedling oyster does not
fall on propitious ground it is lost for ever. New oyster-beds are often
discovered in places where it is certain oysters did not exist in previous
years. How came they then to be formed ? The spat must have been blown
upon that ground by the ill wind that carried it away from the spot where
it was expected to fall. If the spat exuded by the large quantity of
oysters known to be stocked in the pares at Whitstable, in Kent, the home
of the " native," were always to fall on the cultch of Whitstable, instead
of on the adjoining flats and elsewhere, the company would soon become
enormously wealthy. |