|
Knitting first came to
Scotland from Europe in the fifteenth century and was the means of
earning a living for many, as well as of providing warm clothing for the
family. Initially it was mainly carried out by men, skilled at their
craft and belonging to guilds or incorporations. As time went by, it
developed into a family affair and was a source of income for many. As
ships arrived from the Netherlands, trade, including knitted woollen
garments, evolved between these two nations.
Women living in fishing communities on the east coast of Scotland
developed the “Gansey” jumper, a heavy, hard wearing dark blue garment
created to keep their menfolk warm during the long and sometimes
dangerous fishing trips out to sea. They often displayed distinct
patterns, handed down through the generations. Folklore tells us that
these unique patterns were the means of identifying men if an accident
had occurred during a stormy voyage. Whether this is true or not, having
jumpers with your own particular family “crest” sounds a great way to
strengthen family bonds.
Another classic knitting technique, Fair Isle, originated from the
remote island, in between Orkney and Shetland, which bears that name.
These distinct patterns, alternating between dark and light colours have
now been replicated worldwide, but are still made authentically on Fair
Isle itself. They were originally created using yarn form local sheep
and dyes from plants available on the island. Truly a reflection of the
landscape and culture. As synthetic dyes became more available the
palette developed and they have had worldwide surges in popularity
during this last century.
A lesser know pattern, or group of patterns, Sanquhar, is also named
after its town of origin, Sanquhar in Dumfries and Galloway. Having been
granted its status as a Royal Burgh in 1598 by King James Vl, trading
flourished and textile exports were a part of this. The two coloured
geometric patterns may have been developed to stand out in a generally
thriving knitting industry, and thus protect the livelihoods of these
whose income depended on healthy sales. Gloves often had the owner’s
initials knitted into the cuffs. Maybe a marketing idea which could be
taken up today?
Frame knitting came to Scotland following the development of the first
stocking frame in 1589 by William Lee, an English clergyman. Another
legend tells us that Queen Elizabeth l refused to grant Rev Lee a patent
as she foresaw the financial implications even such small scale
industrialisation would have on cottage industries who needed the income
to sustain their families. However, by the end of the eighteenth century
the Borders’ town of Hawick had several frames within a small factory,
employing a workforce of both men and women. As time went by, the
factory diversified from stockings only to producing other woollen
garments. Then, in the late nineteenth century finer raw materials such
as cashmere began to be imported and, to this day, Hawick is known
throughout the world as a producer of luxurious merino and cashmere
knitwear.
From this potted history of knitting in Scotland we can see what a rich
heritage today’s knitters stand upon. Knitting truly is part of the
culture. Right up until 2010 when financial cutbacks sadly put a stop to
it, knitting was taught as a timetabled subject in Shetland schools.
However, the resurgence of knitting circles, knitting classes, support
groups, group knitting for charity and knitting clubs in schools is
exciting to see. This interest in knitting has emerged right across the
UK, and is very much seen in young people as well as those who have
faithfully knitted for years.
Jamieson’s is a family
owned business, which has specialised in wool from the native Shetland
sheep for 5 generations. The family are dedicated to the survival of
this unique fibre and as each new generation joins the business, this
promotion becomes their life’s ambition.
The business was started in the early 1890’s. Set up by Robert Jamieson
in Sandness, on the far west coast of the Shetland Isles. From his shop,
he bought or exchanged for goods, knitwear from the local crofters. The
knitted goods were then sold on to meet the public demand for
fashionable Shetland hosiery beyond the island’s shores.
Over the next century, each generation of Jamieson brought their own
skills and ideas to develop and progress the business. Andrew (Robert’s
son) became one of the islands first wool brokers, buying the raw wool
clip from the crofters and shipping it to Scotland’s mainland for
processing. At the time, Shetland wool was believed to be too fragile to
be spun on industrial machinery so it was blended with wool from coarser
breeds. The very best blend of 'Shetland' yarn produced was only about
60% pure. This blended yarn never fulfilled the family’s dream of 100%
pure Shetland knitwear; grown, spun and knitted in the Shetland Isles.
The next generation, Bertie (Andrew’s son) expanded the business in 1952
by opening a retail outlet in Lerwick, Shetland’s capital town. This was
the start of the Jamieson Knitwear brand. Original Jamieson’s sweaters
were hand-knitted by home workers using blended ‘Shetland yarn.
Chasing the life-long dream, Bertie, and his son Peter began to
experiment with the spinning of pure Shetland yarn. Their efforts were
successful and 100% pure Shetland yarn was produced in 1978 to the
delight of the family.
In 1981, they opened
Jamieson’s Spinning, Shetland’s only commercial woollen mill. This
unique mill, built in Sandness, completes all the stages of yarn
production under one roof. This includes grading, scouring and dyeing
fleece before colour blending, carding, spinning, twisting and balling
to produce their 100% pure Shetland yarn.
After achieving this success, home production was hit by a sharp fall
when the number of hand-knitters available in the islands declined due
to the oil boom. However, the demand for the Jamieson’s brand was
steadily increasing. Recognising the urgent need to increase production,
the Jamieson family were among the first in the islands to harness
computerised knitting technology. Combining this technology with the
100% pure Shetland yarn produced in their mill, allows the highly
complex traditional Fair Isle patterns to be re-created in an increasing
range of both traditional and vibrant contemporary colours.
Recognising the potential for woven fabrics using these unique colourful
yarns, Jamieson’s Spinning installed weaving looms and now produce an
extensive range of genuine Shetland Tweeds and blankets.
With the business now moving into its 5th generation, Peter, and his son
Garry, continue to develop and promote their prized unique Shetland
products. The extensive ranges of hand knitting yarns now being offered
have been developed and extended with valuable assistance from their
many international agents and distributors. Jamieson’s exclusive
Shetland knitwear, fabrics and yarns are now available in premium stores
and boutiques worldwide.
The lovely knitting known
as “Fair Isle” surfaced in the mid-1800s, in mittens, tams, and socks.
Vests and sweaters became popular in the early 1900s. At first these
small items were made of yarns the color of the Shetland sheep and the
local dyestuffs of the islands.
As synthetic aniline dyes became available, the color palette developed.
While the construction of the Fair Isle sweater was based on the Gansey,
the surface design featured bands of color and pattern, rather than
texture. Steeking was incorporated for ease of knitting, to avoid
working on the wrong side with two colors.
While all “Fair Isle” garments are Scottish, not all Scottish knitting
is considered “Fair Isle”. Fair Isle knitting refers to color-stranded
garments made with no more than two different yarns in each round, but
also includes the characteristic shading of the pattern color and the
background color, going from light to dark to light, or dark to light to
dark. For example, Sanquhar gloves are a Scottish tradition but they are
not considered “Fair Isle” items.
The Aran Sweater is named
after the set of islands off Ireland's West coast where it was first
created many generations ago. The Aran Islands are located at the mouth
of Galway Bay on the Atlantic Sea and are where fishermen and farmers
dwelled and worked together.
The traditional Irish Aran sweater was fashioned in this environment and
has since been passed down through generations to be considered the
ultimate Irish Clan Heritage symbol. It is still very popular today in
many knitting circles and is also worn by those who appreciate its
origin and symbolism.
Aran sweaters are highly sought-after, and still, make quite a fashion
statement many years after their creation. Back in the 1950s on the Aran
Islands, many of the men were fishermen by trade and, out of necessity
to combat the cold and tough conditions of the sea, the women handmade
their husbands Aran sweaters to keep them warm, hence the name fisherman
sweaters we're all familiar with today.
Due to their popularity with the local Irish fishermen, they were also
sold on the island which helped provide a living for some of the
families, and a booming new grassroots economy was born.
The intricate cables, bobbles and stitch patterns make these garments
popular for a number of reasons. They are challenging to knit, lend
aesthetic appeal to the apparel, and add warmth and thickness. Back
then, hand-knitting an Aran sweater took between 3 to 6 weeks to
complete.
The origin of the Aran sweater can be traced back to Guernsey, an island
400 miles South-East of the Aran Islands. Much of Guernseys trade relied
on fishing, and the clothing requirements of fishermen were quite
demanding.
A sea-faring laborer's clothes needed to be durable, easy to mend, stain
resistant, easy to move about in, be able to provide warmth to the
wearer, and if possible, keep out water. Thus, the gansa sweater.
The Gansa (aka 'gansai) was a simple design, allowing for free movement.
Its dark navy color was stain-resistant to a number of liquids, and the
knitting was tight to keep the wearer dry. Over time, the stitches
became more complicated.
As the popularity of the Gansa grew, knitters further developed the
stitching, with noticeable differences seen in Ireland and Scotland.
Various types of cable stitches were used: diamond lattices, plates,
ropes, and the Celtic Knot design.
Before long the stitch patterns covered the entire sweater, creating an
even more aesthetically pleasing garment. Before long, commercial
interest took hold, and the aran sweater began to really grow in
popularity.
As it evolved, the modern Aran sweater was manufactured with thicker
yarn, the sweaters were knitted flat and seam is sewn together, and the
stitching became looser. This decreased the amount of time it took to
knit a sweater, thus increasing the Aran's production output.
The Aran sweater is known for its stitching patterns and intricacies and
is considered both a practical choice and fashion statement.
A myth about the Aran sweater is that the stitches are linked to family
names the legend has it that each stitch represents a family second name
so that is the fisherman was lost at sea the family would be able to
identify the body by the stitch on the sweater although an interesting
story, it has not been proven at a fact! While Aran sweaters were indeed
knit to keep the fisherman warm and cosy at sea, the idea of each stitch
is a family name is, unfortunately, a myth.
Due to the expanding population of the Aran Islands at the time, the
government introduced a board called 'The Congested Districts Board' as
a way to come up with ideas of improving the standard of living on the
island. The put a lot of effort into farming and fishing and knitting
for the ladies.
The people of the Aran Islands decided to bring over some Scottish
fishermen to teach the Islanders a few things, they also brought some
Scottish ladies who showed how to knit sweaters for a living. So the
Irish ladies took their idea and made it their own - the yarn they used
in Ireland was much thicker than the fine Scottish wool and the design
had lots more patterns to it, rather than just the top which the
Scottish version had.
By 1935, these sweaters were so in demand they started selling them in
the Dublin markets!
Aran knitting stitches are beautiful, complicated, and represent the
lives of the fishermen who wore them. They must be hand-knitted, are
believed to have been symbolic of nature, the sea, and the fishing
families who lived on the Aran Islands. The patterns on Aran sweaters
are based on Irish Tradition each stitch represents a different meaning
and symbolizes something of importance. Here are some of the most
popular stitches and their meanings. We have a large range of aran
cardigans and Irish sweaters featuring an array of Irish stitches in
each style.
Fair Isle knitting and
its origins are documented mostly through oral histories. Some
researchers go as far as to call some of the origin stories “folklore”.
One of the seemingly longest-standing stories involves the Spanish
Armada vessel, El Gran Grifon, that foundered in 1588 on Fair Isle: the
marooned Spanish sailors supposedly taught these knitting techniques to
local families The events involving El Gran Grifon are historically
accurate, but there is no documented proof of multi-coloured knitting
existing during this time in Spain. Thus the easily refutable tale and
the realities of artifact preservation make it difficult to say when
this style of knitting first emerged in the Shetland Islands
The earliest extant examples of Fair Isle knitting date back to the
mid-nineteenth century. In the absence of prior examples, the narrative
surrounding this craft tradition being unique to the Shetland Islands is
contested by some researchers. Some of the main countering theories link
Fair Isle knitting with its resemblance to Norse/Scandinavian styles.
This theory is supported by the consideration that the Shetland Islands
previously were a Norwegian state before becoming part of Scotland in
1469 Another theory points to the trade routes that the Shetland Islands
were situated within, and the likelihood that the style and technique
were originally from Eastern Europe, namely Latvia and Lithuania.
Outside of the Fair Isle knitting style/technique, however, it is known
that knitting more generally has been part of the Shetland Islands’
culture for at least five hundred years.
See Garland Magazine for further information
See Patons 832 Magazine - Fair Isle
Knitting Patterns
The complete book of traditional Fair Isle knitting
by Sheilas McGregor (1982) which can be borrowed on the Internet Archive
The
Lady's Album of Fancy Work
Consisting of novel, elegant and useful designs in knitting, fletting,
crochet, and embroidery with clear and explicit directions for working
the patterns (1849) (pdf) |
