Some royal visits to the
county have already been noticed. They were mostly to the head burgh of
Renfrew. About the middle of the fifteenth century the castle there fell
out of favour as a royal residence. In 1464, the royal gardens and
orchards were let to Lord Lyle, and in the reign of James III., Lord
Ross of Hawkhead was appointed hereditary Governor of the Castle. James
IV. paid a long series of visits to the county, but not to the head
burgh.
Early in the fourth
quarter of the fifteenth century, his younger brother, the Duke of Ross,
afterwards Archbishop of St. Andrews, was residing in the monastery of
Paisley under the tutorial care of James Shaw, the Abbot, his governor.
James IV.’s first visit to Paisley appears to have been paid in the
month of May, 1489. At anyrate, on the fifteenth of that month he was
residing in the Abbey of Paisley.
For the Abbot, his
presence just then was exceedingly opportune. Under the fostering care
of the monks Paisley had gradually become the largest and most
flourishing town in the county. Quite recently a feud had broken out
between the Abbot’s men in Paisley and the King’s men in the
neighbouring royal burgh. The origin of the feud is not clear ; but the
men of Paisley, taking the law into their own hands, after the fashion
of the times, had marched to Renfrew under cover of night and committed
considerable depredations there. For this they were tried at the Justice
Ayre at Renfrew and heavily fined. The Abbot seized the opportunity
afforded by the King’s visit to plead for his men, and pled so
successfully, that the King granted them a remission of the fines, and
protection against any further actions arising out of the raid that
might be brought against them.
The Abbot, who was the
brother of Shaw of Sauchie, the Governor of Stirling Castle, who, at the
critical moment had gone over from the side of James III. and joined his
rebellious nobles, carrying with him the Prince, had just received two
other valuable tokens of the King’s favour. One was a charter confirming
the monastery of Paisley in all its rights, privileges, and property,
while the other was a charter for the erection of the town of Paisley
into a free burgh of barony. The burgh was not erected, or rather, the
charter was not given effect to until June 2, 1490 ; but at the time of
the King’s visit, the Abbot was busy making the necessary arrangements.
Within little more than
two months the King was on his way back to the county. Already, on April
8, about a month before he paid his first visit, Bute pursuivant and
Nisbet macer had been sent with letters to Lord Lyle’s Castle of Duchal
and to the Castle of Dumbarton, the keeping of which had been entrusted
to the Earl of Lennox and his eldest son, Mathew Stewart. A week later,
Rothesay herald and Montrose pursuivant carried other, letters to
Dumbarton. Lord Lyle was Chief Justiciar, and to him and to the Earl of
Lennox had been entrusted the keeping of Renfrewshire, the Lennox, and
the Lower ward of Clydesdale, till the King should come of age. For some
time they had been intriguing with Lord Forbes, who had recently
displayed the bloody shirt of James III. at Aberdeen, and was afterwards
joined by the Earl Marischal and the Master of Huntly. Both Lyle and
Lennox had been well rewarded in the distribution of honours on the
accession of the young King, but, having quickly garrisoned Duchal
Castle and the Dumbarton stronghold, together with Lennox’s own castle
of Crookston, they were now bidding defiance to the Government.
Meantime, as the summons
to surrender served upon them in April had been disregarded, the King
had been making preparations to take the field against them ; and it was
probably in connection with these preparations that his visit to Paisley
on May 15 was made. On the 18th he was in Stirling. Parliament met in
Edinburgh on June 26, and on the second day of its sitting a decree of
forfeiture was passed, in their absence, against Lord Lyle, the Earl of
Lennox, his son Mathew Stewart, and their abettors.3
It was further determined, that for the recovering of the castles held
by the rebels in the west, the King should pass in person to Duchal and
Crookston, to be there on July 19, accompanied by all the barons,
gentlemen, and freeholders south of the Forth, and that on the day of
the King’s arrival at Glasgow, the Chancellor should proceed with the
men of Argyll, Lennox, Menteith, and Strathearn “ from Tay west ” to
besiege the Castle of Dumbarton.
The King arrived in
Glasgow on the 18th, whence he at once despatched messengers to
Edinburgh “ to haist the gunnis west.” The gunners “ cartit Mons,” the
great bombard, from the Castle of Edinburgh towards Dumbarton, and the
great gun known as “ Duchal ” to Renfrewshire. At the time the transport
of heavy artillery was a slow process. Men “ that kist the gayt ” had to
go before, and the sheriffs of the districts through which the guns
passed, had to provide oxen to draw them. At Paisley, the King obtained
a body of labourers with spades and mattocks, and then proceeded to
invest Duchal. The siege did not last beyond a few days. About the 28th
of the month the King left Duchal for Linlithgow, to meet the Spanish
Ambassador-, and on August 4 the artillery was at Kirkintilloch on its
way home, Duchal and Crookston having surrendered.
Dumbarton still held out.
The siege made no progress; and the besieged making a bold sally,
dislodged their assailants, and by setting fire to the town, compelled
them to raise the siege and withdraw to Dun-glass. Lennox then took the
field with a force of two thousand men for the purpose of obtaining
reinforcements. The King summoned the lords of the west and south-west
to meet him at Glasgow, and was there himself on the 22nd and again on
the 28th of October and during the early days of November, engaged
apparently iu making arrangements in connection with the siege. Three
boats conveyed “ the gun callit Duchal fra Archil to Dunglass,” and from
time to time the King was present with the besieging force. On November
10 he was in Glasgow on his way to Linlithgow. On the 23rd he returned
to Dumbarton and finally left it on December 13, the place having
surrendered two or three days before. During these frequent visits to
Glasgow and Dumbarton the King does not appear to have entered
Renfrewshire, his journeys having apparently been made on the north side
of the Clyde.
Parliament met in the
Tolbooth at Edinburgh, on February 3. On the third day of its meeting,4
the Earl of Lennox, his eldest son Mathew Stewart Master of Lennox, and
Lord Lyle boldly appeared before it in presence of the King. They
declared that the summons served upon them for their compearance on June
27 preceding was informal, and that the diet had not been adjourned
according to custom ; they demanded, therefore, that the sentence of
forfeiture and death then pronounced upon them should be annulled.
Nothing shows more
clearly the pitiful condition into which the country had fallen and the
powerlessness of the King than the treatment which these three noblemen,
who had been in arms against the Crown, then received. Their demand was
granted, and the King, on the same day, issued a precept5 to the Clerk
Register, commanding him to “ tak furth in the said process of
forfaltour of the bukis of Parliament, and to distroy the samyn proces
in sic-wise, that it be never sene in tyme tocum.” A remission was
further given with the consent of the Estates, on February 12, to the
Master of Lennox and three of his brothers, with a hundred and
twenty-nine others, for being art and part in the treasonable holding of
Dumbarton Castle against the King and in the burning of the town. Three
days later, a full pardon was extended to all on the south side of the
Water of Forth who had taken part with Lord Lyle.
After the surrender of
the castles of Duchal and Crookston, the King does not appear to have
visited the county again until December 23 in the following year (1490),
when he was probably returning from Whithorn. At anyrate, on December 5
he was at Lochmaben, and at the date mentioned he was in the Abbey at
Paisley.
His arrival in Paisley
was again exceedingly opportune. The feud between the royal burgh of
Renfrew and Paisley, now a burgh of barony and regality, had broken out
afresh. When Abbot George Shaw issued his Charter of Erection in the
month of June preceding, the people of Paisley had at once begun to
erect their Market Cross. But the work had not proceeded far when the
men of Renfrew, moved probably by jealousy, stole into Paisley “ under
silence of nicht,” threw down the building, and destroyed the stones and
“ hewin work ” that were being prepared for the “ Croce.” On the arrival
of the King, the Abbot laid a complaint before him, upon which the King
issued a letter to the Earl of Lennox and his son, Mathew Lord Darnley,
directing them to make proclamation of the privileges he had granted to
the town of Paisley at the Market Cross of Renfrew, and at “ all uthir
places nedefull,” and to search for and punish any who were convicted of
having taken part in the outrage.
On this occasion the
King’s intervention was apparently without effect. There is no record of
the apprehension of any of the midnight marauders. Nor were the men of
Renfrew by any means overawed.
Within twelve months
after the issue of the King’s letter, the custumars and officers of the
royal burgh, acting under the authority of its bailies, appeared in
Paisley on the market day and poinded a quantity of goods for the King’s
customs. But before they could get off with their spoils, the bailies of
the Abbot appeared upon the scene and forcibly seized the goods poinded,
so that the officials from the royal burgh were obliged to return empty
handed. Upon this the bailies of Renfrew raised an action before the
Lords Auditors against the bailies of Paisley, charging them with
defrauding the King of his customs, and usurping the privileges of their
burgh, and taking the poinded goods from their “ custumars and
officiaris.” After some delay the case was decided in favour of the
bailies of Paisley, the Lords Auditors holding that they had done no
fraud, neither usurped upon the privileges of the burgh of Renfrew,
because the “ said toun and landis of Pastlay are creat in fre barony
and regalitie as wes previt be a charter under King Ptobert’s grete sele
of the date precedand the infeftment maid to the said toun of Ranfrew,
and also becaus the said toun of Ranfrew is prevlegiit bot [only] of the
landis within the burgh and the barony of Ranfrew.” Nine days after this
finding was delivered, on June 22, 1493, it was confirmed by the King
under the Greal Seal. The affair, however, was not yet ended. In the
following year Abbot George Shaw raised an action against the bailies
and community of Renfrew for the wrongous taking and intermitting with
the customs of the regality of Paisley, and the detention and
withholding of them from the Abbot and convent of Paisley for the past
hundred years, also for the costs of the recent action, for the damage
done to the Market Cross at Paisley, for unlawfully fishing in the water
and lands of Bernis in Dumbartonshire, and for the destruction of a
house belonging to the monastery at Arkleston.3 Whether this case was
persevered in is unknown. There is no record of it beyond the summons.
The amount of money involved was very considerable, and the probability
is that a compromise, which served to put an end to the feud between the
two towns, was arranged and agreed to.
While these legal
proceedings were going on, the King was in the county again. In the
month of November, 1491, he set out on a pilgrimage to the shrine of S.
Ninian at Whithorn, and on his return passed through Ayr, and reached
Paisley on the 21st of the month, when he was reconciled to the Church
for the part he had taken in the death of his father. According to the
Treasurers’ Accounts, he then gave to the masons who were employed upon
the buildings at the Abbey, the sum of ten shillings,4 probably “ to the
drink,” as at Whithorn.
His next visit to the
shire was on February 22, 1497-8, when he rode from Glasgow to Duchal,
where his mistress, Marion Boyd, daughter of Archibald Boyd of Bonshaw,
was then residing. The Treasurer, “ be the Kingis command,” then gave
eighteen shillings “to the noris that fosterit Marioun Boydis barne and
fourteen to a harper.”
James was then on his way
to visit the Western Isles. He was met at Ayr by Lord Kennedy, and set
sail on March 8. He returned by way of Ayr to Duchal, where, on March
16, having now completed “his perfyte aige of twenty-five yeiris,” he
executed his formal revocation of all grants made by him during his
minority. The notary who attended him was given four shillings, and the
nurse and harper thirteen shillings and fourpence each.
During the following
month the King was probably in the shire on two occasions. On April 2 he
was at Dumbarton, on his way to Whithorn, and on the evening of the same
day he was at Ayr. On the fourth of the month, again, he was back at Ayr,
and either that night or on the following day was at Dumbarton, on his
way to Stirling, where he was on April 9. Both in going to Whithorn and
when returning, it is not unlikely that he crossed the Clyde at the
ferry a little above Langbank, in the parish of Erskine.
After spending Eastertide
at Stirling, he paid a visit to Dunbar, and returned by Restalrig to
Linlithgow. In the beginning of May he was again at Dunbar, and on the
fifth of the same month he set out for Dumbarton, on his way to Kintyre,
when he crossed over into Renfrewshire and took ship at Newark, now
Port-Glasgow. He was at Loch Kilkerane on the 16th, and, if the evidence
of charters may be trusted, he was in the county again on his way back
to the Loch on June 18, for on that day he granted a charter on board
ship at Greenock—in navi apud Grenok—when about to sail to Loch
Kilkerane, where he remained some days.
The Treasurers’ Accounts
from May, 1498, to February, 1500-1, are lost, and their guidance as to
the King’s movements during that period fails us. But, according to the
Register of the Great Seal, he was in Ayr on March 24, 1499, and at
Dumbarton on April 2. The probability is, therefore, that he was in the
county at least once during that year.
The next visit of the
King to the county, of which there is any record, occurred in August,
1502. He was then on his way to Whithorn, on one of his numerous
pilgrimages. On the 11th of that month he was in Paisley, when he caused
twenty shillings to be given to the priests. He had come from Glasgow,
and went on to Ayr, where he remained till the 16th of the month. On the
eighteenth he was at Whithorn, from whence he returned by Muirkirk and
Glasgow.6 About December 10 in the same year he was in Glasgow to meet
Sir Thomas Darcy, the English envoy, but does not appear to have come
further west. In April, 1503, he set out on another pilgrimage to
Whithorn, but neither when going nor when returning did he pass through
Renfrewshire.
He was at Whithorn again
in May. On the seventeenth and eighteenth of the month he was at Ayr on
his return, and then travelled to Paisley and on to Glasgow and
Edinburgh. Of his stay in Paisley we have the following record:—
“Item, the xx day of Maij,
in Paslay, to twa preistis, be the Kingis command, ... ... ... xxviijs.
Item, to the masonis and
werkmen in Paslay, of drink-silver, ... ... ... ... ... xiiijs.
Item, the xxj day of Maij,
to ane man brocht ane fed ox fra Lady Levingstoun, be the Kingis
command, xiiijs.
Item, be the Kingis
command, to ane man brocht lxx hurd pennyis to the King to see, ... ...
ixs.”
Abbot Robert Shaw was at
the time apparently occupied in completing the work begun at the Abbey
by his predecessor and uncle, Abbot George Shaw. Treasure trove in the
shape of silver and copper coins was frequently brought to the King for
his inspection. The occurrence of these “ finds ” may be easily
accounted for by the character of the times.
The next time the King
was in Renfrewshire he was accompanied by the Queen. In June, 1504, he
was holding a Justice Ayre Court at Dumfries, and on the twenty-fifth of
the month, accompanied by the Queen, he went on to Whithorn. On the
twenty-ninth they were at Ayr on their way back, and on the last day of
the month they were in Paisley. Lord Semple’s harper performed before
them, and was paid fourteen shillings for his trouble. On their way to
Glasgow on the following morning, the King and Queen looked in upon Lord
Ross at Hawkhead, when the King gave “ to the masonis of Halkhed in
drinksilver xiiijs,” where building was evidently going on as in
Paisley. According to the Treasurers’ Accounts, it cost four shillings
and twopence to “ turse ” (i.e., convey) the King’s coffers from Ayr to
Paisley, and about the same to convey them from Paisley to Linlithgow,
as a charge “ for girs to the Kingis chamir in Edinburgh ” is reckoned
in the five and fivepence for the “ item.”
In the beginning of June,
1505, the Court was at Dumbarton. On the seventh of the month the King
paid a flying visit to Paisley, when he directed twenty shillings to be
given to the priests of the town. On the tenth he was back in Dumbarton,
where the Court remained till the fifteenth, when it removed to Ayr for
a couple of days, and then returned to Stirling by way of Auchinleck and
Craigbernard.” In the following month the King passed from Dumbarton to
Whithorn. On his way he visited Lord Semple at Eliotstoun, probably for
the purpose of inspecting the Collegiate Church,8 which had just been
built by John Lord Semple, in the parish of Lochwinnoch. Fourteen
shillings were given as His Majesty’s offering to it. From Whithorn the
King went to Edinburgh by way of Peebles.
Next year “ the leaves
were hardly green when the indefatigable monarch was again off on one of
his southern pilgrimages.” Going by Glasgow, he called at Hawkhead,
where he gave thirteen shillings to the masons as drink-silver, and then
went on to Paisley, where, on April 26, he gave the same number of
shillings to the masons at work there. From Paisley he went by Ayr and
Glenluce to Whithorn, where, on May 1, he gave eighteen shillings to an
English pilgrim “ that Sanct Ninian kythit miracle for.” Returning by
Wigton, Dumfries and Peebles, he was in Edinburgh by the twelfth of the
month.
In the month of August of
the same year (1506) the King was off again to Whithorn. He was at
Glasgow on the fifth of the month, at Ayr on the sixth, and at Whithorn
on the ninth,6 but whether he passed through Renfrewshire, though he
probably did, is not said. On the return journey he came by Ayr and
thence to Inchinnan, where six French crowns, worth £4 4s. Scots, were
given to the wrights, masons and workmen who were engaged in altering or
rebuilding the old manor house, known as the Place, then in the
possession of Mathew Stewart Lord Darnley, second Earl of Lennox. From
Inchinnan the King was rowed down and across the Clyde to Dumbarton.
On February 21, 1507, the
Queen gave birth to a son, “ quhairof,” says Leslie, “ albeit the King
was exceeding blyth, yit because that sickness put his wyfe in perrel,
grevet him sa sair, that he would not be comforted ; nouther of man wald
receive ony consolatione. Quhairfor al hope of her helth putting in God
only, referring al to His gudnes, for her he passis a pilgrime, on fute
to S. Ninians of Galloway, for devotioune.” He started on March 11 or
12, but neither in going nor in returning did he pass through
Renfrewshire. But in the month of July following, when the Queen had
recovered, both their Majesties, when on their way to Whithorn to give
thanks, passed through Renfrewshire. They reached Paisley from Edinburgh
on the ninth, when the sum of three pounds was given to Schir Andro
Makbrek, the King’s almoner, “to dispone.” From Whithorn they returned
as they went by Ayr, a stop being made on the way at Maybole. After Ayr
the route followed was the same as on a previous occasion, viz., to
Inchinnan, and down and across the Clyde to Dumbarton, and thence to
Paisley and Glasgow. They were at Paisley on the twenty-fifth and
twenty-sixth, and at Glasgow on the twenty-seventh. To the boatmen that
rowed the King from Inchinnan to Dumbarton ten shillings were given.
Before leaving Paisley for Glasgow, the King was presented by Abbot
Robert Shaw with a couple of horses.
These frequent vists of
royalty must have occasioned no small stir in the county. When the Court
rested at the Abbey of Paisley or at the Place of Inchinnan there would
be considerable gaiety. Before his marriage the King was in the habit of
travelling lightly and rapidly. Afterwards, when accompanied by the
Queen, his movements were more stately and at a slower pace, in
consequence of the Queen’s numerous impedimenta.
On most of the occasions
on which the King passed through the county he was either making a
pilgrimage to the famous shrine of S. Ninian in Galloway, or returning
from one. On some occasions, however, he was on business. But whether on
business or devotion, during his numerous journeys he usually contrived
to combine with the one and the other a considerable amount of
amusement. He was a keen sportsman, and as a rule his falcons and hounds
either preceded or accompanied him. In Renfrewshire he would find
abundant sport in the forests of Paisley and Fereneze, in the wood of
Stanely, and along the moors or muirs, as the high lands in the
neighbourhood of Kilmacolm were called ; and his evenings in the Abbey
of Paisley or in the Place of Inchinnan, if they were occupied as they
were elsewhere, as they most likely were, would be filled in with
card-playing, chess or backgammon. Elsewhere they were often spent in
listening to clareschaws or performers on the Irish harp, to fiddlers,
pipers, singers, lutars, tabourers or drummers, or to the jests of “
Sande fwle,” or to Currey, who after 1495 was the Court fool. Sometimes
the amusements of the evening were varied by watching the performances
of players, gysaris or mummers, dancers, spelaris or rope-dancers, and
many were the payments made for them out of the funds of the Lord High
Treasurer. In March, 1500, twenty-eight shillings were given at Stirling
to a blind lutar, and thirty-six to “Jacob lutar to lows his lute that
lay in wed” (i.e., in pawn). At Montrose, in October of the same year,
fourteen shillings were given to a “ brokin backit ” or hunchbacked “
fithelar.” Among singers the “ crukit vicar ” of Dumfries was an
especial favourite with the King, and on several occasions entertained
him. To “ the madinis of Forres that dancit to the King” nine shillings
were given. At Elgin the same or another set of “ madinis ” danced
before His Majesty. There are references also to certain “ Moor lasses,”
who were probably full-blooded negresses, and in all likelihood dancers,
like the “ madinis ” of Forres or Elgin and Darnaway. It is not unlikely
that they were the same that attracted the attention of Dunbar and
inspired his poem “ Of ane Blackmoir.” There is nothing to show,
however, that when he was at Paisley or Inchinnan the King was
entertained either by “fithelaris,” “lutaris,” “gysaris,” “spelaris,”
dancing “ madinis,” or by—
“My ladye with the mekle
lippis,
That landed furth of the last schippia.”
The only indication we
have of the way in which he was amused in the evening, during any of his
visits to Renfrewshire, are the gratuities given to John Haislet, Lord
Semple’s harper, and to the harper at Duchal. |