"Ye hills, near neebors o’ the s tarns,
That proudly cock your cresting cairns;
Ye cliffs, the haunts o' sailing yearns,
Where echo slumbers;
Come, join, auld Nature’s sturdiest bairns,
My wailing numbers.”
Thus does Bums pathetically invoke Auld Nature to
condole with him for the demise of hi$ friend Matthew Henderson. In
similar strains may I invoke her to condole with me in the change
which must now come over the spirit of my narrative. Our ascent of
Lochnagar was, in every point of view, eminently successful and
satisfactory. But, as the Roman author asserts, “nihel est ah omni
parte beatum;” or, as it may aptly be translated 1by our Scotch
proverb, "we canna kep at a’ slapsor," as we have it in
English, "they who play at bowls must meet with rubbers.” The ascent
of Ben Macdhui was the grand object of my ramble on this occasion.
The accomplishment of this I had contemplated for years. In public
opinion, this mountain had, for at least a quarter of a century,
snatched the laurels from the brow of Ben Nevis as being the highest
point in the kingdom. Even children at all our schools were
instructed to give the preference to this Aberdonian upstart; and it
grieved me to think that I had once been half-way to the top, in the
most favourable circumstances, and had, by mere accident, been
prevented from reaching it.
These considerations led me to form the resolution of
not only climbing Ben Macdhui, but also several mountains in its
vicinity, especially Brae-riach and Caimtoul, which are only lower
by about 150 feet. My plans were fully, and in my opinion, most
judiciously matured. By consulting maps, charts, and guide-books, as
well as by correspondence, I had completely mastered the geography
of the district. Not only the mountains, but all the glens and bums,
were familiar to me ; and I concluded that by one, or at most two
nights’ bivouack, I could overtop all that is particularly
interesting at the source of the Dee. That I might not be foiled in
this long cherished enterprise, I had resolved to. go entirely
alone; and in the prosecution of this object, I resisted lie
proffered society of those who would, in many respects, have been
most agreeable fellow-travellers. The elements, however, cannot be
controlled. This achievement has hitherto bid defiance to the
boasted ingenuity of man, and compels him to acknowledge that,
whereas in many things he deals proudly, yet there is One above him.
As formerly mentioned, I had tarried as long at
Castleton as time would permit, in hopes of the mountains becoming
clear of clouds and falling snow. The Queen was to arrive at that
village on the 31st August, upon which occasion, as a loyal subject,
I was determined to be present. Accordingly, about mid-day, on the
28th, after having uncorked my whisky-flask at a blacksmith's vice,
and stowed into my fishing-basket a fair supply of provisions for
two or three days, I proceeded alone up the Dee. Three miles from
Castleton, the river is joined on the north side by the Quoigh, on
which there are several romantic falls. This stream flows from the
precipitous sides of Ben Abourd and Benaven, mountains about 4000
feet high, and by no means difficult of ascent. Her Majesty and her
Royal Consort visited the former this autumn, and, as they were
highly gratified with the novelty of the scene, it is to be hoped
they will extend their rambles to the Cairngorm range on some future
occasion. Patronage of this description will soon bring mountain
climbing into fashion, and banish that effeminate 'indolence which
has long been gaining ground among all ranks. Men now-a-days allege
mat they cannot rough it without imminent danger, and that a night’s
lodging on the cold ground, even in summer, would be certain
destruction. This may all be true enough, but what is the cause?
their superfluous flannels and countless other unnecessary
indulgences. Let them reflect that, if history is to be credited,
our forefathers deemed it sufficient to have an occasional fresh
coat of painty without troubling the tailor at all!
Benaven derives its appellation from the number of
streams which issue from it on every side. It is still more
remarkable for eight or ten odd looking excrescences at and near its
summit. These consist, I believe, of solid rock, and have much the.
appearance of being artificial when seen from a distance, especially
that one which crowns the summit of the mountain. Their height is
considerable, varying perhaps from 50 to 100 feet The river Aven
runs chiefly from the north side of this mountain and the loch of
the same name, and joins the Spey at Inveraven. The far-famed
Glemivet whisky is manufactured from a tributary of this stream.
On the south side of the Dee, opposite Glen Quoigh,
is Corriemulzie Cottage, the very interesting Highland retreat of
that distinguished veteran, General Sir Alexander Duff. It consists
of various, unpretending buildings, erected at different times, as
the family increased, and has more of a classic and picturesque than
a grand and imposing appearance. You might fancy it the elegant
retreat of literature and science, rather than the residence of a
soldier, the next heir to the vast estates of the Earldom of Fife. A
wicket-gate and a well-kept footpath lead from the high road down to
the Dee by the side of a stream, on which there are some beautiful
cascades. No one should pass these unvisited. I followed the stream
till it fell into the Dee. On a beautiful lawn by the side of the
river, stands the effigy of a noble stag. It consists of iron
painted, and is so well executed, that, when I first saw it, I half
thought it might be some favourite of the General’s family that had
become tame by their attentions and indulgence.
The next object worthy of notice is the
handsome "Victoria” Bridge leading to Mar Lodge, the Highland
residence of the Duke of Leeds. An ornamental cottage is here
tenanted by a very old woman, on whom I called, who has seen better
days, but who has still much cause of gratitude in being so near a
neighbour of the General and the Duke.
On my telling her I was going to Ben Macdhui, she
remarked, “Wi’ leave, Sir, I think ye’re o’er het at hame; they tell
me it’s deep wi’gnaw.” Mar Lodge is beautifully situated on the
north side of the Dee, at the foot of Ben Abourd, with an extensive
lawn in front, and on both sides. I have given Invercauld the first
place, and Balmoral the second, in point of splendour and beauty on
the banka of the Dee. Mar Lodge, in Doncaster phrase, u comes in a
good third.” Its architectural pretensions ate not great, but the
situation is splendid; and, as a sporting residence in autumn, it is
unrivalled. The only bridge above this is that at the Linn of Dee.
The river is here so narrow that it is easily spanned by a single
arch, though above and below, the channel expands to 40 or 50 yards.
This linn consists of a succession of falls of no great height, but
imposing on account of the vast body of water dashing through rocks
so contracted, that, for the space of 18 or 20 feet, any active boy
or girl of twelve years of age might easily leap across. The only
circumstances to prevent the frequent accomplishment of this, are
the sudden rise of the rock on the south side, where you alight, and
the certainty of destruction should you slip and fall into the
roaring gulf below. The river being high and the wind boisterous,
the spray was flying about in all directions while I was there;
this, and there being no one to witness the feat, if so it may be
termed, prevented me from the attempt Tiie extent of the linn from
head to foot may be about 80 or 100 yards. In various places there
are hideous eddies or whirlpools, which some of the good people in
the vicinity declare to have no bottom.
After crossing the Dee, I turned to the right and
then to the left, near its confluence with the Lui I then proceeded
up Glen Lui for three or four miles, as far as the forester’s lodge,
at the entrance of Glen-Lui-Beg. The stream is here divided into
two, the Derry being the larger branch. On entering the lodge, 1 was
informed that the forester, Peter M‘Hardy, was not at home, but was
civilly received by his spouse, and the evening being showery and
cold, 1 was glad to sit down with her and her young folks round an
excellent peat fire. Soon after, she apprised me that, as she had
kindled a fire in the room end, I would find myself more comfortable
there. Ihree splendid broadswords were suspended on the wall, which,
along with other implements connected with his profession, proved
Peter to be no greenhorn. In the course of the evening he arrived,
and kept me company. M'Hardy is about as good a specimen of a
Highlander as can well be imagined. He is considerably above six
feet in height, straight and active, without an ounce of redundant
flesh. Like all these foresters whom I have seen, he is remarkably
intelligent, and, from frequent intercourse with men of rank and
education, their manners are much superior to those of our ordinary
peasantry. Some years ago, he was an adept at throwing the hammer
and putting the stone, as was testified by several elegant silver
medals which he showed me, and to which, I make no doubt, he might
still be adding, had he not thought proper gracefully to
retire from the arena, while facile princeps. Had there
been six Peters instead of one, the learned Doctor and his "Girse
gatherers” might have felt a little discomposed ere they forced the
Pass of Glen-Lui-Beg, regaling the deer with their cigars,
grog, &c. &c. At our first meeting, I informed him that I had
letters from the Duke, to whom I had applied for a pass through the
forest. He said it was unnecessary to produce them, as he had been
informed by his Grace, of my intended visit, and had been instructed
to afford me every facility. Here, therefore, I spent the night,
somewhat more comfortably than had I been once more stretched among
the rocks and heather, as at one time I thought I should have been
compelled to be.
I have heard some lamenting that so much ground
should be devoted to deer forests, considering that much of it is
well adapted for sheep. In this lamentation, I cannot sympathise.
There is comparatively little of Scotland devoted to this purpose;
and, when we reflect that it can only be in the wildest and most
desolate parts of the country the object can be successfully
accomplished, there can be no just foundation for such regret,
provided lawful roads and footpaths are not interfered with. In
addition to this, let it be kept in view, that this system brings
annually a great number of noblemen and gentlemen into our country,
who*would otherwise be utter strangers to it—that, not only do these
men liberally spend their money in the Highlands, where it is most
wanted, but very frequently take an interest in promoting the
welfare of the inhabitants—patronising our patriotic and benevolent
institutions, and, in not a few instances, finding employment abroad
of a lucrative and honourable description for those who would
otherwise have spent their lives in idleness and starvation at home.
We should also consider, that, for the preservation of the deer, as
many men are required as had the ground been under sheep, and that
their families are, in almost all instances, kept in more
comfortable circumstances than those of the generality of our
shepherds. Besides all this, would it not be a national disgrace,
that this noble breed of animals, the red deer, should be
extinguished for such a paltry and questionable lucrative
consideration for this would most certainly very soon be the result,
were they not so preserved. |