Many years ago, I visited Clackmannanshire and the
Ochils as a pedestrian; but, owing to want of time, could not get to
the top of Bencleuch, from which there is the most splendid view of
the Grampians that can be conceived. It was my lot to repeat my
visit a few weeks ago, under more propitious atispices, when I was
gratified to the utmost, by being on the summit of the highest of
the Ochils on a very fine day indeed. Along with two young
gentlemen, I left the Manse of Alva, one of the most interesting
spots in Scotland, soon after breakfast, and we reached the top of
Bencleuch by an easy gradual ascent in about two hours. The height
is not great, not quite 2500 feet; but, owing to its position, the
view of the Highland mountains is most extensive and imposing. The
whole range of the Grampians, from Ben Lomond to Ben-y’-Gloe in Glen
Tilt, is quite visible^ and, under particularly favourable
circumstances, I make no doubt the Aberdeenshire mountains might be
seen on the extreme right, though I suspect the Largs and Kilbimie
hills intercept the view of Goatfell and the other Arran peaks on
the extreme left.
Strathmore, or Great Glen, which extends quite across
Scotland, separates the Ochils from the Grampians. It is owing to
this that the view of the latter is so complete, there being no
adjoining high ground to interrupt the prospect. The more remarkable
mountains within sight on this occasion were, Ben Lomond, the Cobler,
Ben Ledi, Stuichron, Ben voirlich, Ben Cruachan, Ben Loy.Stobinain,
Ben More, Ben Chonzie, Ben Lawers, SchihalHon, and Ben-y’-Gloe.
These, with innumerable others of inferior note, were quite visible,
some of them marked by streaks of snow. In a still clearer dire, Ben
Nevis may also be seen, and I have no doubt of Ben Macdhui and
Lochnagar being within reach of the eye, though I could not make
them out on this occasion.
From having been on the tops of nearly the whole of
these mountains, their shapes and relative positions were quite
familiar to me; but had it been otherwise, I could be under no
mistake, as a friend in Edinburgh favoured me with a sketch very
accurately copied from a panoramic chart, taken on the spot by
scientific men employed by Government for geometrical purposes in
1817. This neat little chart I spread out before me to the extent of
six or seven feet, though, when wrapt on its roller, I carried it
easily in my pocket, it contained all that is to be seen in the
larger one, and had all the names of the mountains attached to
them—a mpst satisfactory companion to all who visit the top of
Bendeuch, so that I hope it will be stereotyped for the use of the
public.
The view on all sides of this mountain is
interesting, but the Highland district incomparably the most so. The
whole horizon is serrated with mountain peaks from S.W. to N.E.,
their distances varying from 20 to 60 miles and upwards, as the crow
flies. The most remarkable were Ben More, Ben Voirlich, and Ben
Lawers, with its elegant conical top and huge bluff rocky eastern
shoulder, much resembling Meal-fourvonie on Loch Ness.
The Devon rises not many hundred yards from the top
of Bencleuch, and, alter a long and singularly circuitous course of
more than 40 miles towards every point in the compass, falls into
the Frith of Form near Alloa, not many miles from its source,
perhaps not above six in a direct line! It reminds one of the hunted
hare, which, after numberless doublings, often breathes its last in
the vicinity of its den.
It is truly astonishing that so few from Edinburgh
visit Bencleuch. There is no mountain of its height more easy of
access, and certainly none commanding such a splendid Highland
prospect. The whole drive from Stirling, through the parishes of
Logie, Alva, Tilliecoultry, and Dollar, is strikingly beautiful,
although it has of late been sadly disfigured by huge chimneys, and
all the appendages of coal, woollen, iron works, &c. The glens are
very narrow and steep. That of Castle Campbell is well known to
tourists. On this occasion, I went up the Alva Glen till it seemed
quite impervious, as mural precipices arose on all sides in a spot
where there is a very fine cataract. Not far from this, there were
formerly several deep diggings for silver, which was found in
considerable quantities. We entered some of the caves, which are
very dangerous to strangers, as they contain uncovered pits of great
depth*, and, being quite dark a few yards from the entrance, any
unwarned person would, in all probability, be precipitated 30 or 40
feet—a risk which ought certainly to be obviated.
An entertainment of a different kind awaited us in an
infant school in the village of Alva. It is attended by about 170
children, who sung some, beautiful hymns, and, in various other
respects, did great credit to their teachers. I have reason to
believe that this school, as well as others in the vicinity, is much
indebted to the Hon. Mrs Johnstone, who takes a warm and judicious
interest in everything likely to promote the improvement and
happiness of the labouring classes.
Alva House is one of the most beautiful mansions in
Scotland. It is situated near the base of what is most appropriately
called the "Wooded Hill,” the bald summit of which cannot be less
than 1500 feet above the "banks of the clear winding Devon.” The
house itself is magnificent, having not long ago been much enlarged;
but the scenery around is absolutely like fairy-land. The flower
gardens, terraces, conservatories, archery ground, fountains
ejecting water in all directions, &c. &c., render this a scene
almost unparalleled, and not to be surpassed.
We were privileged with a view of the interior, of
the mansion, which quite corresponds with what we had seen without.
The paintings are of the choicest description, particularly those
representing sea and Highland scenery; and there are many rare and
curious articles in the lobbies and galleries, highly deserving the
attention of the virtuoso and antiquarian. There is one picture
which none can witness without feeling greatly interested. It
contains a group of sixteen gentlemen and ladies, eight of each, all
the children of the late Mr and Mrs Johnstone, whose eldest son is
the present worthy and amiable proprietor. They have all attained
the years of maturity, and, in so fax as I have heard, there has not
yet occurred a death among them. The picture is ably executed, the
grouping admirable, and the likenesses said, in general, to be very
striking.
The course of the Devon being so very circuitous,
renders the road from the north to the south of the Ochils equally
so. This often induces pedestrians to prefer the string to the bow,
when, owing to mist or snow, it should not be attempted. Hence, many
lives have been lost here and elsewhere. I recollect reading a very
simple and effective plan for obviating this risk, viz., let poles
be placed at proper distances betwixt the points of danger, and
through these let strong fence-wire be run. This might be effected
for many miles at a very trifling expense, and could not fail to be
of vast utility to the bewildered traveller.
There are many districts where this contrivance is
loudly called for, and there cannot be better examples than the
routes across the Ochils to Dollar and Tillycoultry, and that from
Kingshouse to Rannoch. Of course, the should diverge from the
straight line wherever there is danger from bogs or precipices, or
to touch at such shepherds’ or foresters’ houses as may not be far
from the direction. In many places, large stones would answer better
than poles, being at hand, and more durable, and the chain might be.
discontinued when such burns and glens have been reached as are
known to lead to habitable districts. |