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Preface
HAVING been one of the first commercial adventurers
to the Columbia River, and having spent fifteen years of my life
travelling among the savage tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, I was
induced, from time to time, to note down such incidents and opinions,
illustrative of savage life and manners, as appeared to me either new or
interesting.
To the characteristic details of Indian life, I have
added that of personal adventure, the trials and misfortunes which the
first adventurers had to undergo among the Indians in that quarter;
connecting therewith an account of the trade and commerce of the country
during the early days of that bold spirit which animated the first
explorers of the Columbia.
These different subjects have been arranged and
linked together in their natural order, so as to form one complete
narrative, embodying the history of the "Pacific Fur Company."
It is not an arm-chair narrative, derived from
hearsay tales, but the result of practical experience on the spot. From
beginning to end, I had personally to act my part in the scenes described;
they passed under my own eyes; and the account altogether may derive more
value from being authentic than from any adventitious embellishment
bestowed .on it.
While on this part of our subject, it may be
observed that there is an error which most travellers, especially those
pioneers who first penetrate into dark and remote regions, fall into: they
generally run into the extreme, and spoil a simple story by colouring. Not
content to leave nature in its simple garb, they must brighten or darken,
magnify or diminish, everything they describe, until at last the real
likeness of the thing is entirely effaced, and truth itself, by
over-refinement, is thrown into the shade.
What belongs to oneself is generally viewed with a
partial eye; and perhaps that partiality influences my own opinion as to
the interest of the subject before us. In reference to this subject,
however, others have written on it as well as myself: Let our readers,
therefore, judge for themselves.
In presenting the present work to the public, I have
no very sanguine expectations. All I aim at is to lay before my readers a
faithful and impartial statement of what took place, during my own times,
in a quarter hitherto but little known.
Freedom from imperfection is not to be expected;
yet, on the whole, I hope that this volume will prove to the calm
inquirer, in all matters connected with the subject generally, a sure and
satisfactory guide: allowance being made for any changes that may have
taken place since this account was written— thirty years ago.
Red River Settlement, Rupert's Land,
Aug. 1,
1843.
Contents
Chapter I.
Introductory remarks—John Jacob Astor—Grasping views—Early traders of
Canada—The Hudson's Bay Company—American fur companies—Astor's
policy—Russian settlements—Coasting vessels —The Pacific
Fur Company —lattering results —Oregon territory— New association - Mr.
Hunt - Golden prospects - Proposals accepted—List of adventurers—Land
party—Sea party—The ship Tonqum -Remarks -Opinion against opinion-
Observations - Land expedition departs—Sea party set off for New York—Bark
canoe—Spectators—Canadian voyageurs.
Chapter II.
The Totsqisw sails—Quarrels on board—The captain's character
- Accommodations—A sudden squall—Flying fish—The captain's
harshness—Cape de Verd Islands—Alarm of fire—A suspicious sail —Crossing
the Line—Springing a leak—Short allowance of water —Immense wave—The
Falkland Islands—Rocky passage—Wild fowl—Port Egmont Bay—The party on
shore—Mr. Farnham's gray goose—Old graves renewed—Epitaphs—Party left
behind— New dangers—Mr. Robert Stuart's determined conduct—Feuds on
board—Cape Horn doubled—The weather—Pilot fish—Trade winds—Rogues'
mesa—Little pilot—Mouna Boa—A man overboard—The mate in irons.
Chapter III.
Karakakooha Bay—The sailors desert—The captain's
conduct-Productions of Owhyhee - Tocaigh Bay - Governor Young - Royal
proclamation —Woahoo - Ourourah, the residence of Tammeatameali —Harbour
fees-Excursion on shore—The Queen's umbrella-The King's appearance—Royal
palace and guards—Arsenal, or royal workshop—Royal dinner—His Majesty's
fleet—Morais, or places of public worship—Sacred or puranee ground
tabooed—Storm - A sailor left to his fate among the natives—Parting visit
from his Majesty—His meanness—Diving of the natives—Native proas: how
made—Clothing—Customs and peculiarities—Character of the women—White men
at the Sandwich Islands—The King's disposition towards foreigners—Captain
Cook —Pahooas, or war spears — A sham fight —Religion —Tam zneatameah
conqueror and king—Apparent happiness of the natives—Prophetic
hint—Distressed situation of a boat.
Chapter IV.
Departure from the Sandwich Islands—Bad
weather—Live stock destroyed—Columbia River—A boat and crew lost—Captain's
conduct towards Mr. Fox-Mouth of the river—Bar and breakers- Cape
Disappointment—Point Adams—Narrow escape of the long boat—Sounding the
bar—A boat and crew left to perish—The ship in the breakers—Critical
situation—Melancholy narrative of Steven Weeks—Search made for the lost
boat, and narrow escape—Long boat swamped—Fidelity of the
natives—Preparations for leaving the ship—Captain Thorn—The voyage
concluded.
Chapter V.
Preparations for landing-Site of the new emporium
of the west - Astor's representative —hard work—Huge trees —Natives -
Comecomly—Mode of felling the trees—Danger—Trying scenes—Three men
killed—Three wounded—Party reduced by sickness—Disaffection—Conduct of the
deputy—Desertion—Mr. Astor's policy - Climate—Indian rumours—Comecomly's
intrigues and policy— Trip to the cascades- Mr. M'Kay and north-west
notions - Anecdote—Exploring party to the north—Several persons killed—
Hostile threats of the Indians —Potatoes and other seeds planted- New
building—Astoria—Departure of the ship—Dangerous situation of the
whites—Great assemblage of Indians—People under arms —Blunderbuss accident
—Alarming moment—Two strangers arrive—Mr. Thompson at Astoria—M'Dougafl's
policy—The two great functionaries.
Chapter VI.
The ten tribes—Number of warriors—Their
laws—Chief's arbitrary power—Dress, games, and arms of the men—Dress of
the women, slaves, and basket-making—Lewdness of the women—Food,
ornaments—The salmon -Superstitious customs —Sturgeon -Fathomfish—Roots
and berries—Circulating medium—Econé, or Good Spirit—Ecutoch, or Bad
Spirit—Etaminua, or priests—Keelalles, or doctors—War canoes -Diseases
—Winter houses —Temporary, or Summer houses—Fleas—Practice of flattening
the head—Colonization—Wailamitte—Cowlitz, or Pugets Sound—Conclusion.
Chapter VII.
First expedition into the interior—Number of the
party—Tongue Point—Canoe swamped - Sailing difficulties- Indian villages—
Cedars - First night's encampment—Mount Coffin —Cowlitz - Wallamitte—Columbia Valley—Point Vancouver—Difficulties---.The
Cascades—Concourse of Indians—General appearance of the country—The
portage—Description of the cascades—The roll of tobacco —Pilfering—Mr.
Thompson—Exchange of men—The Long Narrows—Warlike appearance of the Indian
cavalry—Button contract --Critical situation of the party—Camp of
gamblers—The Narrows —Bard work at the carrying place—A day's
work—Description of Ow portage—Number of Indiana—Aspect of the country—The
plains bein—ad of the woods—Want of sleep—Demeanour of the Indiana.
Chapter VIII.
Columbia Pfls—A canoe swamped—Suspicious
behaviour of the Indians—Stratagem —IJmataflow—WalIa-Wafla -Great body of
Indians—Harangues—Indian ceremonies—The great forks—Difference in the
waters—Length of the forks—The British flag—Mr. Thompson's design—Indian
ideas—Salmon—European articles - Tununatapam —Departure from the Forks -
Indian honesty - Eyakenia - Marl-hills - Dead children - Superstitions -
Priest's Rapid—Rattlesnakes—Appearance of the country —Kewaughchen
—Perilous situation of a canoe—The two sisters—The old Indian— Hunting
party -Horses —The priest- Pies-cows - Sopa - Great assemblage of
Indians—The comet - Oakinacken —Distance from Astoria—Indian
council—Resolve to winter—Some account of the place—The stolen watch—The
priest dismissed—Voyage concluded —The two strangers—First
building—Division of the party— Lonely winter —The lost party —Indian
trade - Mr. Stuart's adventures.
Chapter IX.
Anxieties at Astoria—Indians depart—A schooner
built—The Dolly's rst trip—Criminal curiosity—The powder keg—The schooner
condemned—Mr. Astor's cargoes—His policy—Remarks on the North-West
coast—Unwelcome rumours - Calpo's statement - Rumours renewed—Hard
cases—Joe Lapierre—Kaaisscafl'a account of the 2bnqnin—Strange Indian—Kasiascall's
conduct - character—His design on Astoria—Remarks.
Chapter X.
Land expedition—Hunt and M'Kenzie —Montreal
recruits—La Chine - Devout fareweli—Mackina in 1810—Fur traders of the
South — Frolic parties—Comparison between the South and North—Arrival at
St. Louis—Recruiting service—Yankees—Canoe-men—Delays at St.
Louis—Difficulties—Mr. Miller—The Missouri—Canadian voyageurs —Winter
quarters - Mr. Hunt revisits St. Louis - M'Kenzie - Mr. Astor's policy -
The Yankees desert - Winter quarters broken up—Rocky Mountains—Pilot
knobs—New scenes —Columbia River—The horses abandoned—Take to canoes—The
canoes abandoned—Trappers—Mr. Miller—Party on
foot—Hardships—Starvation—Conflicting councils—Gloomy prospects—Property
en cache—The party divided—Three men perish—M'Kenxie's speech—He arrives
at Astoria—Mr. Crooks and others left behind —Mr., Hunt's arrival at
Astoria—Voyage concluded.
Chapter XI.
Doings at Astoria—Three parties on foot—Their
object—M'Lellan's resolution —Hostile attack at the Long Narrows—Mr.
Reed—Two Indians shot—Heroic conduct of M'Lellan—Difficulties adjusted—
Advance of the party—Remarks—Arrival at Oakinacken—Departure again for
Astoria—Scene at Umataflow—Mr. Crooks's adventures and suffering —Yeck-a.tap-am—Umatallow
left—Merit rewarded—Arrival of the party at Astoria—The ship Beaver there
also.
Chapter XII.
General meeting of the partners—Resolutions
passed—Departure of the parties for the interior—Mr. Clarke—The caseades—Wysenpam,
or the Long Narrows—Situation of the party—Loss of time—Mr. M'Kenzie—A
stroll through the Indian camp—Mr. Clarke's alarms —Command
transferred—Reed's rifle recovered—A robber in irons —The five shots—Yeck-a-tap.am
rewarded—Mr. Stuart's departure for St. Louis—Second division—Summer trip
to She WhapsBoullard and his squaw—Mr. Stuart's arrival at
OakinackenDeparture for She Whaps—Winter operations at OakinackenVisits—Travelling
scenes—A night in the snow—Jacque and his powder-horn—Mr. Stuart's account
of his journey—Arrival at Walla Walla.
Chapter XIII.
Mr. Clarke—Stragglers—Hard travelling—Cox's
pilgrimage—Visit to Spokane—Trade—Mr. Pullet—Mr. Farnham—Cootanais and
Flatheads - M'Lennan —Plunge in the lake —Adventures -Outposts - Catatouch
chief—Curiosity —Fracas -Introduction of civilization- Commotion -
M'Kenzie -Great Snake River-Caches robbed— Canadian wanderers—Character of
the Shahaptains—Visit to Spokane - M'Tavish —Account of the war—Winter
travels —M' Kenzie at Astoria—New resolves —M'Kenzie's return to his
post—Indian chiefs—Bold enterprize —Property recovered—Chiefs and their
horses -Stratagems —Indians outwitted -Plotting -Friendly Island
-Conference —Marauding propensities —Treaty of peace-System changed
-Plentiful market—The island abandoned—Arrival at Walls Walla —Commotions
among the savages —Tummeatapam - Arrival at Astoria.
Chapter XIV.
Mr. Stuart-Snake. River —Trappers —Joyous meeting
—Trappers' resolution-Crow Indians' troubles-Horses change masters-Mr.
Stuart on foot—M'Lellan left alone—Hardships of the partyFamine—Le Clerc's
horrid proposition—The old bull—The old horse - Pilot-knobs - Winter
quarters - Unwelcome visitors - Change of quarters—Spring—Travelling at
random—An OttoIndian—River Platte—Two traders—News of the war—The
Missouri—The old horse given for an old canoe—St. Louis—Mr. Astor—
Wallaznitte —Falls —Scenery —Habits of the Col-lap-pohyea-ass tribes -
Concourse of savages - M'Dougall's letter - M'Kenzie's stratagem—Indian
disappointment—The ship Beaver —Coasting voyage—Mr. Astor's
policy—Captains—Their instructions—Mr. Hunt baulked in his plans—The
Boston merchants— Mr. Astor's conduct—Difficulties of Mr. Hunt's
situation—The ship AThatrou—All the parties at head-quarters.
Chapter XV.
Meeting of the partners—Warm discussion —M'Kenzie
-Eloquence of the times—Reasons for dissolving the company—Dissenting
partners converted-Final resolve—The deputy's powers-Departure of the
brigade—A canoe lost—A man's leg in jeopardy— Rumours at the narrows—Snake
party—Rumours renewed - Tummeatapams counsel - Hostile appearance at the
forks —Number of Indians—Nez Percés' fleet—Fears of the whites—Indian
visit— Strong guard—Mr. Clarke—Relic of the silver goblet—Mr. Hunt at
Astoria—Face of affairs changed—Mr. Hunt departs from Astoria—North-West
squadron—A great Eri duped—Bill of sale— Petty manoeuvring—Rumours of
ships—The Astorians at their post —Bills signed—Astoria delivered
up—North-West Company.
Chapter XVI.
Mr. Franchere—Comecomly's anxiety—His report of a
sail—His attachment to the Americans—Lafrainboise, the interpreter—Mr.
M'Dougall's visit—The Racoon sloop-of-war —Come comly grows partial to the
British flag—North-West partners—British officers— Astoria changed to Fort
George—Captain Black's character—Mr. Hunt's voyage—Commodore Porter—Mr.
Hunt leaves the Marquesas—Arrival at the Sandwich Islands—Rumours—The ship
Lark —Eight persons perish—Columbian affairs—The property delivered —No
ice—The people assembled—Voyage—The Cascade banditti— Two North-West
canoes—North-West affray at the cascades—Mr. Stuart wounded—Mr. Keith's
conduct—Preparations for war—The great expedition—Conduct of the
Cath-le-yach-é-yach Indians— Expedition fails—The effect—Remarks.
Chapter XVII.
Party to the WaUsznitte—Hunt's voyage
concluded—The brig Pedlar —M'Dougall suspected—His character
vindicated—Mr. Ht's reniarks on the late concern—His liberality—His
farewell address to the clerks—Final departure from Columbia—The party for
Canada - Efforts and disappointments - Snake expedition - The melancholy
story of Pierre Dorion's wife—Massacre of the Snake party— Remarks - A
winter in the Blue Mountains - List of casualties - Astor's hopes
disappointed - Comment on the late concern.
Chapter XVIII.
Origin of the Oakinackens —Religion —Good
Spirit—Evil Spirit— Ideas of a future state—Ceremonies—End of this
world—Extent of country—Names and number of tribes—Warriors—Population - Royal
family—The great chief, or Red Fox—Wild hemp—Long journeys—Barter—Emblem
of royalty—Government—Indian ideas —Council of
chiefs—Manners—Employments—Plurality of wives —Brawls—Dress and clothing
—Stratagems —A savage in wolf's clothing—Painted faces and sleek hair.
Chapter XIX.
Marriage contracts—National custom—Exchange of
presents—Nocturnal visits—The object—Purchasing the bride—Customs on the
occasion—Feuds and quarrels—Tia-quili-augh, or Indian doctor— His
office—Precarious life—Mode of paying him—Manner of treating the
sick—Customs and ceremonies on the occasion—Hard duty - Superstitions -
Knowledge of roots and herbs - Curing wounds—Diseases, or general
complaints —Gambling —Tail-all-acome, or the national game—Manner of
playing it—Bets—Gambling propensities—Hot baths—Manner of using them—On
what occasions—Indian qualifications—Gymnastic exercise—Comparison
—General remarks.
Chapter XX.
Social habits—Winter habitations—Economy of the
winter-summer employments—Collecting of food—Fish barriers—Salmon—Division
of labour—Roots and berries—Scenes at the fish camp—Mode of catching the
deer—Preparation of food—Furnaces or ovens—Implements of warfare—Spampt,
how made—Pine moss—Bread, how prepared—Great war-dance—Manner of
fighting—Treaties of peace - Scalps - Slaves - Funeral ceremonies - Mode
of interment— Graves -
Superstitions—Emblems—Customs—Mourning--Punishments—Sedate habits and
docile dispositions.
Chapter XXI.
Calculation of time—Singular manner of naming
children—Peculiar modes of address—Anecdote of an Indian chief—Indian
forbearance —Conduct of the whites in Indian countries—Comparison of crime
between Indians and whites—Manner of swaddling infants—Hardships during
infancy—Savage customs—Indian constitution—Chief cause of scanty
population—A day's journey—Calculation of distance -Rough roads—Indian
ideas—Social habits—Some remarks on the system adopted for converting
Indians to the Christian faith.
APPENDIX.
Chinook
Vocabulary
Table of the Weather at the Mouth of the Columbia
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