"Mop.—Is it true,
think you?
Aut—Yery true;—why should I carry lies abroad?”
Winter's Tale.
In perusing in some of
our older Gazetteers the half page devoted to Cromarty, we find that,
among the natural curiosities of the place, there is a small cavern
termed the Dropping-Cave, famous for its stalactites and its petrifying
springs. And though the progress of modem discovery has done much to
lower the wonder, by rendering it merely one of thousands of the same
class—for even among the cliffs of the hill iu which the cavern is
perforated, there is scarcely a spring that has not its border of
coral-like petrifactions, and its moss and grass and nettle-stalks of
marble—the Dropping-Cave may well be regarded as a curiosity still. It
is hollowed, a few feet over the beach, in the face of one of the low
precipices which skirt the entrance of the bay. From a crag which
overhangs the opening there falls a perpetual drizzle, which, settling
on the moss and lichens beneath, converts them into stone; and on
entering the long narrow apartment within, there may be seen by the dim
light of the entrance a series of springs, which filter through the
solid rock above, descending in so continual a shower, that even in the
sultriest days of midsummer, when the earth is parched and the grass has
become brown and withered, we may hear the eternal drop pattering
against the rough stones of the bottom, or tinkling in the recess
within, like the string of a harp struck to ascertain its tone. A stone
flung into the interior, after rebounding from side to side of the
rock,’ falls with a deep hollow plunge, as if thrown into the sea. Had
the Dropping Cave been a cavern of Greece or Sicily, the classical
mythology of these countries would have tenanted it with the goddess of
rains and vapour.
The walk to the cave is
one of the most agreeable in the vicinity of the town, especially in a
fine morning of midsummer, an hour or so after the sun has risen out of
the Firth. The path to it has been hollowed out of the hill-side by the
feet of men and animals, and goes winding over rocks and stones—now in a
hollow, now on a height, anon lost in the beach. In one of the recesses
which open into the hill, a clump of forest-trees has sprung up, and,
lifting their boughs to the edge of the precipice above, cover its rough
iron features as if with a veil; while, from the shade below, a fine
spring, dedicated in some remote age to “Our Ladye,” comes bubbling to
the light with as pure and copious a stream as in the days of the priest
and the pilgrim. We see the beach covered over with sea-shells and
weeds, the cork buoys of the fishermen, and fragments of wrecks. The air
is full of fragrance. Only look at yonder white patch in the hollow of
the hill; ’tis a little city of flowers, a whole community of one
species—the meadow-sweet. The fisherman scents it over the water, as he
rows homeward in the cool of the evening, a full half-mile from the
shore. And see how the hill rises above us, roughened with heath and
fern and foxglove, and crested a-top with a dark wood of fir. See how
the beeches which have sprung up on the declivity recline in nearly the
angle of the hill, so that their upper branches are only a few feet from
the soil; reminding us, in the midst of warmth and beauty, of the rough
winds of winter and the blasting influence of the spray. The insect
denizens of the heath and the wood are all on wing ; see, there is the
red bee, and there the blue butterfly, and yonder the burnet-moth with
its wings of vermilion, and the large birdlike dragon-fly, and a
thousand others besides, all beautiful and all happy. And then the
birds;—But why attempt a description? The materials of thought and
imagination are scattered profusely around us; the wood the cliffs and
the spring—the flowers the insects and the birds—the shells the broken
fragments of wreck and the distant sail—the sea the sky and the opposite
land—are all tones of the great instrument Nature, which need only to be
awakened by the mind to yield its sweet music. And now we have reached
the cave.
The Dropping-Cave ninety
years ago was a place of considerable interest; but the continuous
shower which converted into stone the plants and mosses on which it
fell, and the dark recess which no one had attempted to penetrate, and
of whose extent imagination had formed a thousand surmises, constituted
some of merely the minor circumstances that had rendered it such.
Superstition had busied herself for ages before in making it a scene of
wonders. Boatmen, when sailing along the shore in the night-time, had
been startled by the apparition of a faint blue light, which seemed
glimmering from its entrance : on other occasions than the one referred
to in a former chapter, the mermaid had been seen sitting on a rock a
few yards before it, singing a low melancholy song, and combing her long
yellow hair with her fingers; and a man who had been engaged in fishing
crabs among the rocks, and was returning late in the evening by the way
of the cave, almost shared the fate of its moss and lichens, when, on
looking up, he saw an old greyheaded man, with a beard that descended to
his girdle, sitting in the opening, and gazing wistfully on the sea.
I find some of these
circumstances of terror embodied in verse by the provincial poet whom I
have quoted in an early chapter as an authority regarding the Cromarty
tradition of Wallace; and now, as then, I will avail myself of his
description :—
————“ When round the
lonely shore
The vex’d waves toil’d with deaf ning roar,
And Midnight, from her lazy wain,
Heard wild winds roar and tides complain,
And groaning woods and shrieking sprites;—
Strange sounds from thence, and fearful lights,
Had caught the sailor’s ear and eye,
As drove his storm-press’d vessel by.
More fearful still, Tradition told
Of that dread cave a story old—
So very old, ages had pass'd
Since he who made had told it last.
’Twas thus it ran of strange array
An aged man, whose locks of grey,
Like hill stream, flow’d his shouldera o’er,
For three long days on that lone shore
Sat moveless as the rocks around,
Moaning in low unearthly sound;
But whence he came, or why he stay’d,
None knew, and none to ask essay’d.
At length a lad drew near and spoke,
Craving reply. The figure shook
Like mirror’d shape on dimpling brook.
Or shadow flung on eddying smoke—
And the boy fled. The third day pass’d—
Fierce howl’d at night the angry blast
Brushing the waves; wild shrieks of death
Were heard these bristling cliffs beneath,
And cries for aid. The morning light
Gleam'd on a scene of wild affright.
Where yawns the cave, the rugged shore
With many a corse lay cover’d o’er,
And many a gorgeous fragment show’d
How fair the bark the storm subdued.”
There was a Cromarty
mechanic of the last age, named Willie Millar, who used to relate a
wonderful adventure which befell him in the cave. Willie was a man of
fertile invention, fond of a good story, and zealous in the improvement
of bad ones ; but his zeal was evil spoken of—the reformations he
effected in this way being regarded as little better than sinful, and
his finest inventions as downright lying. There was a smithy in the
place, which, when he had become old and useless, was his favourite
resort. He would take up his seat on the forge each evening, regularly
as the evening came, and relate to a group of delighted but too
incredulous youngsters, some new passage in his wonderful autobiography;
which, though it seemed long enough to stretch beyond the flood,
received new accessions every night. So little, indeed, had he in common
with the small-minded class who, possessed of only a limited number of
narratives and ideas, go over and over these as the hands of a
lock pass
continually over the same figures, that, with hut one exception in
favour of the adventure of the cave, he hardly ever told the same story
twice.
There was a tradition
current in Cromarty, that a townsman had once passed through the
Dropping-Cave, until he heard a pair of tongs rattle over his head on
the hearth of a farmhouse of Navity, a district of the parish which lies
fully three miles from the opening; and Willie, who was, it seems, as
hard of belief in such matters as if he himself had never drawn on the
credulity of others, resolved on testing the story by exploring the
cave. He sewed sprigs of rowan and wych-elm in the hem of his waistcoat,
thrust a Bible into one pocket and a bottle of gin into the other, and
providing himself with a torch, and a staff of buckthorn which had been
cut at the full of the moon, and dressed without the assistance of iron
or steel, he set out for the cave on a morning of midsummer. It was
evening ere he returned—his torch burnt out, and his clothes stained
with mould and slime, and soaked with water.
After lighting the torch,
he said, and taking a firm grasp of the staff, he plunged fearlessly
into the gloom before him. The cavern narrowed and lowered as he
proceeded; the floor, which was of a white stone resembling marble, was
hollowed into cisterns, filled with a water so exceedingly pure that it
sparkled to the light like spirits in crystal, and from the roof there
depended clusters of richly embossed icicles of white stone, like those
which, during a severe frost, hang at the edge of a waterfall. The
springs from above trickled along their channelled sides, and then
tinkled into the cisterns, like rain from the eaves of a cottage after a
thunder-shower. Perhaps he looked too curiously around him when
remarking all this; for so it was, that at the ninth and last cistern he
missed his footing, and, falling forwards shattered his bottle of gin
against the side of the cave. The liquor ran into a little hollow of the
marble, and, unwilling to lose what he regarded as very valuable, and
what certainly had cost him some trouble and suffering to procure (for
he had rowed half way across the Firth for it in terror of the
customhouse and a cockling sea), he stooped down and drank till his
breath failed him. Never was there better Nantz; and, pausing to recover
himself, he stooped and drank, again and again. There were strange
appearances when he rose. A circular rainbow had formed round his torch;
there was a blue mist gathering in the hollows of the cave; the very
roof and sides began to heave and reel, as if the living rock were a
Flushing lugger riding on the ground-swell; and there was a low humming
noise that came sounding from the interior, like that of bees in a
hawthorn thicket on an evening of midsummer. Willie, however, had become
much less timorous than at first, and, though he could not well account
for the fact, much less disposed to wonder. And so on he went.
He found the cavern
widen, and the roof rose so high that the light reached only the snowy
icicles which hung meteor-like over his head. The walls were formed of
white stone, ridged and furrowed like pieces of drapery, and all. before
and around him there sparkled myriads of crystals, like dewdrops in a
spring morning. The sound of his footsteps was echoed on either hand by
a multitude of openings, in which the momentary gleam of his torch was
reflected, as he passed, on sheets of water and ribs of rock, and which
led, like so many arched corridors, still deeper into the bowels of the
hill. Nor, independently of the continuous humming noise, were all the
sounds of the cave those of echo. At one time he could hear the wind
moaning through the trees of the wood above, and the scream of a hawk as
if pouncing on its prey; then there was the deafening blast of a smith’s
bellows, and the clang of hammers on an anvil; and anon a deep hollow
noise resembling the growling of a wild beast. All seemed terribly wild
and unnatural; a breeze came moaning along the cave, and shook the
marble drapery of the sides, as if it were formed of gauze or linen; the
entire cave seemed turning round like the cylinder of an engine, till
the floor stood upright and the adventurer fell heavily against it; and
as the torch hissed and sputtered in the water, he could see by its
expiring gleam that a full score of dark figures, as undefined as
shadows by moonlight, were flitting around him in the blue mist which
now came rolling in dense clouds from the interior. In a moment more all
was darkness, and he lay insensible amid the chill damps of the cave.
The rest of the adventure
wonderfully resembled a dream. On returning to consciousness, he foimd
that the gloom around him had given place to a dim red twilight, which
flickered along the sides and roof like the reflection of a distant
fire. He rose, and grasping his staff staggered forward. “It is
sunlight,” thought he, “I shall find an opening among the rocks of
Eathie, and return home over the hill.” Instead, however, of the
expected outlet, he found the passage terminate in a wonderful
apartment, so vast in extent, that though an immense fire of pine-trees,
whole and unbroken from root to branch, threw up a red wavering sheet of
flame many yards in height, he could see in some places neither the
walls nor the roof. A cataract, like that of Foyers during the
long-continued rains of an open winter, descended in thunder from one of
the sides, and presenting its broad undulating front of foam to the red
gleam of the fire, again escaped into darkness through a wide
broken-edged gulf at the bottom. The floor of the apartment appeared to
be thickly strewed with human bones, half-burned and blood-stained, and
gnawed as if by cannibals ; and directly in front of the fire there was
a low tomblike erection of dark-coloured stone, full twenty yards in
length, and roughened with grotesque hieroglyphics, like those of a
Runic obelisk. An enormous mace of iron, crusted with rust and blood,
reclined against the upper end ; while a bugle of gold hung by a chain
of the same metal from a column at the bottom. Willie seized the bugle,
and winded a blast till the wide apartment shook with the din; the
waters of the cataract disappeared, as if arrested at their source; and
the ponderous cover of the tomb began to heave and crackle, and pass
slowly over the edge, as if assailed by the terrific strength of some
newly-awakened giant below. Willie again winded the bugle ; the cover
heaved upwards, disclosing a corner of the chasm beneath ; and a hand
covered with blood, and of such fearful magnitude as to resemble only
the conceptions of Egyptian sculpture, was slowly stretched from the
darkness towards the handle of the mace. Willie’s resolution gave way,
and, flinging down the horn, he rushed hurriedly towards the passage. A
yell of blended grief and indignation burst from the tomb, as the
immense cover again settled over it; the cataract came dashing from its
precipice with a heavier volume than before; and a furious hurricane of
mingled wind and spray that rushed howling from the interior, well-nigh
dashed the adventurer against the sides of the rock. He succeeded,
however, in gaining the passage, sick at heart and nearly petrified with
terror; a state of imperfect consciousness succeeded, like that of a
feverish dream, in which he retained a sort of half conviction that he
was lingering in the damps and darkness of the cave, obstinately and yet
unwillingly; and, on fully regaining his recollection, he found himself
lying across the ninth cistern, with the fragments of the broken bottle
on the one side, and his buckthorn staff on the other. He could hear
from the opening the dash of the advancing waves against the rocks, and
on leaping to the beach below, found that his exploratory journey had
occupied him a whole day.
The adventure of Willie
Millar formed at one time one of the most popular traditions of
Cromarty. It was current among the children not more than eighteen years
ago, when the cave was explored a second time, but with a very different
result, by a boy of the school in which the writer of these legends had
the misfortune of being regarded as the greatest dunce and truant of his
time. The character of Willie forms the best possible commentary on his
story—the character of the boy may perhaps throw some little light on
his. When in his twelfth year, he was by far the most inquisitive little
fellow in the place. His curiosity was insatiable. He had broken his
toys when a child, that he might see how they were constructed; and a
watch which the owner had thoughtlessly placed within his reach,
narrowly escaped sharing a similar fate. He dissected frogs and mice in
the hope of discovering the seat of life; and when one day found
dibbling at the edge of a spring, he said he was trying to penetrate to
the source of water. His schoolmaster nicknamed him “The Senachie,” for
the stories with which he beguiled his class-fellows of their tasks were
without end or number; the neighbours called him Philosopher, for he
could point out the star of the pole, with the Great Bear that
continually walks round it; and he used to affirm that there might be
people in the moon, and that the huge earth is only a planet. Having
heard the legend of Willie Millar, he set out one day to explore the
cave; and when he returned he had to tell that the legend was a mere
legend, and that the cave, though not without its wonders, owed, like
the great ones of the earth, much of its celebrity to the fears and the
ignorance of mankind.
In climbing into the
vestibule of the recess, his eye was attracted by a piece of beautiful
lacework, gemmed by the damps of the place, and that stretched over a
hollow in one of the sides. It was not, however, a work of magic, but
merely the web of a field-spider, that from its acquaintance with lines
and angles, seemed to have discovered a royal road to geometry. The
petrifying spring next attracted his notice. He saw the mosses hardening
into limestone—the stems already congealed, and the upper shoots dying
that they might become immortal. And there came into his mind the story
of one Niobe, of whom he had read in a school-book, that, like the
springs of the cave,, wept herself into stone, and the story too of the
half-man halfmarble prince of the Arabian tale. “Strange,” thought the
boy, “ that these puny dwarfs of the vegetable kingdom should become
rock and abide for ever, when its very giants, the chestnut trees of
Etna and the cedars of Lebanon, moulder away in the deep solitude of
their forests, and become dust or nothing.” Lighting his torch, he
proceeded to examine the cavern. A few paces brought him to the first
cistern. He found the white table of marble in which it is hollowed
raised knee-height over the floor, and the surface fretted into little
cavities by the continual dropping, like the surface of a thawing
snow-wreath when beaten by a heavy shower. As he strided over the ledge,
a drop from above extinguished his torch ;—he groped his way back and
rekindled it. He had seen the first cistern described by the adventurer;
and of course all the others, with the immense apartment, the cataract,
the tomb, the iron mace, and the golden bugle, lay in the darkness
beyond. But, alas ! when he again stepped forward, instead of the eight
other hollows he found the floor covered with one continuous pool, over
which there rose fast-contracting walls and a descending roof; and
though he pressed onward amid the water that splashed below, and the
water that fell from above—for his curiosity was unquenchable, and his
clothes of a kind which could not be made worse—it was only to find the
rock closing hopelessly before him, after his shoulders had at once
pressed against the opposite sides, and the icicles had passed through
his hair. There was no possibility of turning round, and so, creeping
backwards like a crab, he reached the first cistern, and in a moment
after stood in the lighted part of the cave. His feelings on the
occasion were less melancholy than those of the traveller, who, when
standing beside the two fountains of the Nile, “ began in his sorrow to
treat the inquiry concerning its source as the effort of a distempered
fancy.” But next to the pleasure of erecting a system, is the pleasure
of pulling one down; and he felt it might be so even with regard to a
piece of traditionary history. Besides, there was a newly-fledged
thought which had come fluttering round him for the first time, that
more than half consoled him under his disappointment. He remembered that
when a child no story used to please him that was not both marvellous
and true—that a fact was as nothing to him disunited from the wonderful,
nor the wonderful disunited from fact. But the marvels of his childhood
had been melting away, one after one—the ghost, and the wraith, and the
fairy had. all disappeared; and the wide world seemed to spread out
before him a tame and barren region, where truth dwelt in the forms of
commonplace, and in these only. He now felt for the first time that it
was far otherwise ; and that so craving an instinct, instead of
perishing for lack of sustenance, would be fed as abundantly in the
future by philosophy and the arts, as it had been in the past by active
imaginations and a superstitious credulity.
The path which,
immediately after losing itself on the beach where it passes the cave,
rises by a kind of natural stair to the top of the precipices, continues
to ascend till it reaches a spring of limpid water, which comes gushing
out of the side of a bank covered with moss and daisies : and which for
more than a century has been known to the town’s-people by the name of
Fiddler’s Well. Its waters are said to be medicinal, and there is a
pretty tradition still extant of the circumstance through which their
virtues were first discovered, and to which the spring owes its name.
Two young men of the
place, who were much attached to each other, were seized at nearly the
same time by consumption. In one the progress of the disease was
rapid—he died two short months after he was attacked by it; while the
other, though wasted almost to a shadow, had yet strength enough left to
follow the corpse of his companion to the grave. The name of the
survivor was Fiddler—a name still common among the seafaring men of the
town. On the evening of the interment he felt oppressed and unhappy ;
his imagination was haunted by a thousand feverish shapes of open graves
with bones mouldering round their edges, and of coffins with the lids
displaced; and after he had fallen asleep, the images, which were still
the same, became more ghastly and horrible. Towards morning, however,
they had all vanished; and he dreamed that he was walking alone by the
sea-shore in a clear and beautiful day of . summer. Suddenly, as he
thought, some person stepped up behind, and whispered in his ear, in the
voice of his deceased companion, “Go on, Willie; I shall meet you at
Stormy” There is a rock in the neighbourhood of Fiddler’s Well, so
called from the violence with which the sea beats against it when the
wind blows strongly from the east. On hearing the voice he turned round,
and seeing no one, he went on, as he thought, to the place named, in the
hope of meeting his friend, and sat down on a bank to wait his coming;
but he waited long— lonely and dejected; and then remembering that he
for whom he waited was dead, he burst into tears. At this moment a large
field-bee came humming from the west and began to fly round his head. He
raised his hand to brush it away; it widened its circle, and then came
humming into his ear as before. He raised his hand a second time, but
the bee would not be scared off; it hummed ceaselessly round and round
him, until at length its murmurings seemed to be fashioned into words,
articulated in the voice of his deceased companion—“Dig, Willie, and
drink!” it said; “Dig, Willie, and drink!” He accordingly set himself to
dig, and no sooner had he tom a sod out of the bank than a spring of
clear water gushed from the hollow ; and the bee taking a wider circle,
and humming in a voice of triumph that seemed to emulate the sound of a
distant trumpet, flew away. He looked after it, but as he looked the
images of his dream began to mingle with those of the waking world; the
scenery of the hill seemed obscured by a dark cloud, in the centre of
which there glimmered a faint light; the rocks, the sea, the long
declivity, faded into the cloud; and turning round he saw only a dark
apartment, and the faint beams of morning shining in at a window. He
rose, and after digging the well, drank of the water and recovered. And
its virtues are still celebrated ; for though the water be only simple
water, it must be drunk in the morning, and as it gushes from the bank;
and with pure air, exercise, and early rising for its auxiliaries, it
continues to work cures. |