We took leave of thee, in
our last, gentle reader, at the Broomielaw, and at the same classic spot
here we are again "well met.” The morning is overcast, and our gaucy
friend the manager of the Lochgoilhead steamers, who foregathers with us
as he is bustling about on the quay, looks over his spectacles, and
remarks portentously, “ Ye’re gaun to ha’e a wat day.” Never mind. There
is no truth in weather prophecy, and even if it comes to the worst,
there are charms to be found in Nature—especially in Scottish
Nature—under every aspect. We like the memory of surly old Samuel
Johnson for his utter disbelief in the popular fallacy that
atmospherical influences materially affect the spirits of men. He was
nearly, if not altogether, right on this point of his creed. We can be
happy in spite of the wind or the rain; and let us whisper in thy ear,
kind reader, uNo man, woman, or child, can thoroughly appreciate the
character of Scottish landscape, or read its deeper meanings, who has
not studied its features in storm and in gloom, as well as in its more
genial expression?.” Thomson of Duddingstone, Horatio Macculloch, and
all the other faithful transcribers of Scotland’s hills and glens, must
often have studied beneath u the peltings of the pitiless storm,” and
gleaned their harvests of the grand and the beautiful at the expense of
a droukit skin. So let us on board the roaring steamer, where we can
snap our fingers at the threatening clouds. Passengers are dropping in
by ones and twos. Now a solitary bachelor comes, carrying a solitary
portmanteau, and wearing a “nobody-cares-for-me” sort of expression;
next we have a young couple—he all smiles and attention, she accepting
with a pretty condescension the little services so assiduously offered.
How delightfully conscious are the glances of the maiden! It is no
business of ours, however, and our sympathies would rather lead us to
scan the movements and manifestations of this family group, who are
evidently on their way to some sweet summer residence at the coast. How
patriarchal-looking among his young people is “Pa!” how evidently full
of motherly care and pride, the good lady who is so frequently, and from
all sides, addressed as “Ma! ” But the bell rings, the roaring funnel
suddenly becomes mute, the connecting ropes are flung over the side, the
paddles, after a hesitating plash or two, move steadily on, and the
quay, with its onlookers, its porters, and its police, glides gradually
away. We are now fairly off, and proceeding with moderate speed down the
long avenue of ships that leadeth to the sea. Casting a backward eye, as
we plough the centre of the stream, what a fine glance of the city we
obtain, with its stately bridges spanning the waters, its lengthened
ranges of building towering on either side, and its lofty spires
uplifting their glittering vanes beyond the multitudinous wreathes of
ever-rising smoke! We know not where a more impressive urban prospect
than this may be found, and somehow it invariably awakens in our mind a
dream of Venice, that ancient mistress of commerce and dwelling-place of
merchants who were as princes among men. The downward vista is equally
fine in its own way. On either hand stretches the long train of ships at
rest, with their naked spars bristling in the air, and here and there a
bit of sail unfurled, or a streamer waving lazily in the breeze; while
the midchannel is fretted with buoys, and boats passing and repassing
between the opposite lines of quay. We soon leave the bustle of the
harbour behind, however, when the clink of countless hammers closing
rivets up, noisily greets the ear, from the various spacious
building-yards which we successively pass on either side of the river.
There is something peculiarly impressive in the sight of these vast
leviathans in process of preparation for the battle with wind and wave.
Some in the shape of gigantic skeletons, mere things of ribwork and
keel; and others in all the intermediate stages between the simplest
rudimental framework and that of perfect completion, when, dad in mail,
the stately structure seems as if it were instinct with life, and eager
to rush into its future element. There is not one of these fast-growing
vessels but is a study of the beautiful Grace and strength are united in
their finely curved lines; and be assured that on whatever seas they may
be henceforth destined to ply, or in whatever ports they may yet cast
anchor, they will each abundantly sustain the credit of the Clyde
builders.
But our steamer is
rapidly pursuing its way. Govan, with its still half-rural aspect and
its handsome church—a counterpart, we are assured, of that of
Shakspere’s Stratford —is now before us. On the opposite side we have,
at the debouchure of the Kelvin, the stately shipbuilding premises of
Messrs. Tod & Macgregor, the originators of iron architecture as applied
to the construction of vessels, and among the most enterprising
promoters of its subsequent advancement. A glance of Partick and its
gentle slopes, adorned with ranges of neat cottages and villas, is also
obtained as we glide along; while Gartnavel, that melancholy palace of
the 44 mind diseased,” is seen in the distance, solitary and
aweinspiring. How swiftly the ramifications of the city are extending in
this direction! Partick on the one hand and Govan on the other are
assuredly destined to be swallowed up at no distant date. Already the
antennae of the approaching monster are being pushed vigorously out. The
connecting lines are filling up year by year, and the process of
complete absorption will, ere long, be consummated. Pleasant little
rural communities were ye both in the days of our boyhood—the one famous
for “caller sawmon and sheep’s-head kail,” and the other for “crumpie
cakes” and cheese. Then nothing more rude was heard in your precincts
than the murmur of the stream, the monotonous clack of the flour mill,
or the crowing of the household cock. How changed is everything about
you now! The smoke and the din of ever-increasing manufactures have
invaded the primitive quietness which then spread around, and the stormy
battering of multitudinous hammers has effectually frightened the rural
deities from their ancient abode. How we loved to meditate among the
tombs in the silence of that old elm-encircled churchyard! There we
first saw the snowdrop waving its genty blossoms on the green mansions
of departed mortality, and felt the beauty of the doctrine which it so
sweetly symbolized. There every tombstone was an old acquaintance—every
epitaph a thrice-told tale. But, alas! for the silence and the seclusion
of the auld kirkyard, discord has usurped the place of peace; and their
sleep must indeed be sound who rest undisturbed by the ringing tumult
which now fills our ears I For some miles below Govan the country on
both sides of the river is flat and comparatively uninteresting. It is
not without charms, however, although these would certainly be more
appropriate in an English than a Scottish landscape. Rich alluvial
plains on either hand spread far around, intersected by hedgerows and
belts of planting, with here and there an elegant mansion, or a snug
farm-steading girdled with trees. The most noticeable edifices are
Linthouse, Shieldhall, and Elderslie House on the left, with the mansion
of Scotstown on the right. Passing these, we touch at the wharf at
Renfrew, that most ancient burgh (situated six miles below Glasgow),
which has now the honour of giving the title of Baron to the Prince of
Wales, as it did for many ages to the eldest sons of our Scottish kings.
The Clyde is here joined by a small sluggish and most unpoetical stream
yclept the Pudyeoch. There is a row of neat houses, including several
places of refreshment on the shore, with an extensive shipbuilding
establishment, but the town itself is about half a mile inland. On the
opposite bank is the small village of Yoker; with Yoker House and Yoker
Lodge, two elegant structures, in the immediate vicinity. Renfrew is
considered to be the most ancient town in the extensive shire to which
it gives a name, although, as every one knows, it has been far
outrivalled in extent and importance by several of the more modern
communities in the district. There are evidences of its existence as
early as the reign of David the First, and its constitution <as a burgh
dates as far back as 1396, when the Third Robert held sway in our land.
For a lengthened period Renfrew had extensive fishing privileges on the
Clyde, and according to Crawfurd, the county historian, it had at one
time a little foreign trade, and more recently a commercial connection
with Ireland. In the arms’ of the burgh there is the representation of a
ship, with the motto "Deus Gubemat Navem,” from which we may conclude,
that the good people of Renfrew were somewhat vain of their nautical
superiority. The town presents but few attractions to the stranger.
Resuming our downward course, we pass, on the left, about a mile below
Renfrew, the handsome residence of Mr. Campbell of Blyths-wood,
deliciously situated on a green plain, tastefully dotted and partially
screened by trees. This spacious mansion is situated immediately
adjacent to the junction of the mingled streams of the Cart and Gryffe
with the Clyde at the “Watemeb.” The observant passenger obtains at this
spot a prospect of great beauty and of considerable extent. Looking
southward we have a fine stretch of the Cart, with Colin’s Isle densely
wooded in the foreground; the church tower of Inchinnan in the middle
distance, peering over masses of foliage; and the spires of Paisley
rising beyond, in marked relief against the bold background of the
GlenifFer braes. Old Pennant, who had a keen eye for the picturesque,
remarks in his Tour in Scotland that the scenery here “is the most
elegant 'and softest of any in North Britain.” The picture, as seen from
the deck of the passing steamer, is, in truth, one of great loveliness,
and fully bears out the favourable opinion of the venerable naturalist,
who c was one of the first English travellers who penetrated into the
wild recesses of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, and revealed to
his countrymen their romantic peculiarities of landscape.
Our eager steamer,
however, lingers not, whatever may be the attractions of the country
through which she is ploughing her way. Onward, still onward, she plies,
with a glittering trail of foam in her wake, and closely followed by
continuous diverging waves, which rush along the river walls on either
side, and cause a sad commotion among the tall reeds and grasses. Now an
upward bound steamer goes dashing past, as if on an errand of life and
death; then some tiny craft is seen struggling laboriously against the
stream, by aid of oar and sail; and anon some sturdy little tug comes
puffing along with a train of stately merchantmen in leading strings—an
indomitable dwarf dragging a brace of lubberly giants into captivity.
There is ever an abundance of interest and excitement on the lower
reaches of the Clyde. Newshot Isle goes past on the left; Dalmuir Works
slip out of sight on the right; then, in the same direction, among the
swelling hills, Duntocher chimneys look down upon us, with the mansions
of Mountblow and Auchentoshan adorning the intervening slopes. About a
mile farther down, there stood, in our remembrance, on the left bank of
the river, a dreary old house, which was said to have been the residence
in bygone ages of the Semples of Beltrees, a family in which the poetic
gift was hereditary. "Habby Simson’s Elegy,” “Maggie Lauder,” and u She
rose and loot me in,” for aught we know, may have been penned within its
walls. The place which knew it once knows it no more. Not one stone
remains to prate of its whereabouts. Its ghost, however, still continues
to haunt our memory; and we seldom pass the spot without casting a
suspicious glance in the direction of its site, and half anticipating
the old familiar frown with which it seemed to greet us in former days.
The lofty Kilpatrick hills are now drawing near, with their bosky crests
enveloped in gray wreaths of mist, and looming ominously. That verdant
knoll to the right, with the cottage on its brow, is the celebrated
Dalnotter, and we can tell thee, gentle reader, if thou hast not yet
scaled that “coigne of vantage,” that a delicious draught of beauty
there awaits thy acceptance. Those who are old enough to remember the
Queen Street Theatre of Glasgow, will also remember the gorgeous
drop-scene, by Naismith, which was the admiration of all beholders. The
subject was the Clyde as seen from Dalnotter. The transcript was
universally admitted to be admirable, and before it was burned with the
edifice which it adorned, five hundred pounds were offered for it, and
refused. In one little hour the work of genius was dust and ashes.
Ascend any day that modest elevation, and the glorious original, to
which no mortal pencil can ever do full justice, awaits thy inspection.
We are now at the portal
of the Frith. Passing Erskine Ferry, with the tastefully wooded lawns
and slopes around Blantyre House on the one side, and the swelling
ridges of the Kilpatrick range on the other, with the village of the
same name nestling at its base, the river is seen widening away in the
distance, and gradually assuming the aspect of a hill-environed lake.
Often as we have gazed upon the prospect which now bursts upon us, it
never fails to excite in our mind a new and a sweet surprise. On the one
hand, Nature wears an aspect of softest sylvan loveliness; on the other,
her features are wild and stem, as becomes the land of the mountain and
the flood. We could almost fancy, indeed, that the Highlands and the
Lowlands had here drawn near unto each other, and were holding friendly
communion across the neutral Clyde. In graceful curves, and smoothest
sandy beaches, skirted with freshest verdure, appears the southern
shore, while the northern juts out in fretful points, and rises over the
vale with a scarred and precipitous majesty. Saint Patrick, as every
good Catholic knows, or ought to know, was a native of that little
hamlet to our right, which rears its handsome church-tower in the
immediate vicinity of the river. A more beautiful birthplace he could
not have selected; and we have no patience with the wretches who would
insinuate that “his mother kept a whisky-shop in the town of Enniskillen,”
or anywhere else. No, no! a Scotchman he was, and a Scotchman he must
remain to the end of the chapter! or, as Shakspere more poetically
expresses it, "to the last syllable of recorded time.” We owe a thing or
two to Ireland, but for the blessing of a patron saint, she is
undoubtedly our debtor. The fact is perfectly palpable; but, if
additional evidence were wanted, we should at once find it in the;
honest antipathy to frogs and toads, and other cold-blooded “varmint.”
Every genuine Scot (always excepting the philosophers), and we take
ourselves to be of the number, has, instinctively, an abhorrence to
every species of the Batrachian genus. So had St. Patrick; mark that;
and we only regret that he did not “sarve” those detestable creatures in
his native country as he did in that of his adoption. Pennant says, “St.
Patrick took on himself the charge of Ireland, founded there 865
churches, ordained 365 bishops, 3,000 priests, converted 12,000 persons
in one district, baptized seven kings at once, established a purgatory,
and with his staff effectually expelled every reptile that stung or
croaked.” What a jewel of a saint he must have been, and how grateful
ought Ould Ireland to be to the green valley of Clyde, for giving her
such a benefactor! Off hats, gentlemen, to St. Patrick’s birthplace.
But we have more ancient
associations than those of Saint Patrick in connection with the locality
which we are now passing. About a quarter of a mile to the westward of
Kilpatrick is a gentle eminence which bears the name of the Chapelhill.
This elevation, which commands a fine view of the opening Frith, with
Dunglass and Dumbarton standing proudly on its marge, is considered by
the most trustworthy antiquaries to have been the western termination of
the great Roman Wall, which extended between the estuaries of the Forth
and the Clyde. Dunglass, Dumbarton, and even Balloch at the foot of
Lochlomond, have all been mentioned as the probable sites of the
terminal fort on this gigantic bulwark; but from recent researches, it
is now reckoned all but certain that this was the spot where the
invaders finished their work. When digging the Canal, which here
approaches the edge of the river, the workmen found, in a subterranean
recess, a variety of vases, coins, and monumental tablets, all of which
were of Roman origin. A number of these relics are deposited in the
Hunterian Museum (which is something similiar to being re-interred),
while others have found their way into private repositories. Future
excavations at Chapelhill will doubtless bring many other relics of this
description to light. The ground is almost virgin; and if anywhere along
the line of the vast Wall, we may reasonably look for such remains at
this important post, which in the days of Antonine must have been
covered with fortifications of more than ordinary strength.
After a bold sweep from
north to south, the Kilpatrick range, as it approaches the Clyde at this
point, suddenly turns towards the west, running for a couple of miles or
so in a parallel direction to the stream, until it comes to an abrupt
termination in the rugged headland of Dumbuck. This mountainous rampart
is highly picturesque in outline, being scarred and furrowed by wild
gorges and precipitous clifls, the haunts of hawks and other birds of
prey. Glenar-buck is the most romantic of these indentations. It seems
to have been produced by some awful terrene convulsion; and seen even
from the deck of the passing steamer, its features are strikingly
impressive and grand. On the slopes between the base of the hills and
the water is the fine mansion of Glenarbuck, girdled with foliage, and
farther down, that of Auchentorlie; while in the more immediate vicinity
of the river are seen, in succession, the villages of Bowling,
Little-mill, Milton, and Dumbuck, with numerous detached cottages
peeping from their own sweet nooks, and generally surrounded by
flower-plots and gardens. Our landing-place is Bowling Wharf, and in
little more than an hour from the time at which we left the Broomielaw
we are once again on terra firma. There is a locomotive in waiting to
convey passengers to Dumbarton, the Yale of Leven, and Lochlomond. Such
is not the route, however, which we at present intend to pursue. Our
course is toward Dumbarton, but we prefer the highway to the rail in the
meantime, as it will afford us the liberty of digression. Leaving
Bowling, therefore (which, as our readers are aware, is the western
terminus of the Forth and Clyde Canal), and declining the hospitalities
of Frisky Hall, a favourite inn which is immediately adjacent, we
proceed a short distance westward to Dunglass. This is a small rocky
promontory which juts out into the Clyde, and is surmounted by the ruins
of an ancient castle, which belonged at one period to the family of
Colquhoun. Only a portion of the external walls is now in existence. The
interior is used as a flower-plot by the proprietor of a picturesque
cottage, in the old Scottish style of architecture, which has been
erected contiguous to the shattered edifice of other days, and which
harmonizes appropriately with it. As seen from the water, with its
antique loopholes and windows, overrun with a green mantle of ivy, and
crowned with an obelisk, raised to the memory of Henry Bell, the
originator of steam navigation on the Clyde, the old castle undoubtedly
forms a picture of considerable beauty. Of its history exceedingly
little is known. The site is supposed by some authorities to have been
at one period occupied by a Roman fort. Others have imagined that it was
the western termination of the great wall constructed by the invaders
between the Friths of Forth and Clyde. As we have previously mentioned,
however, there is reason to believe that this structure had its abutment
on the river at a somewhat higher point. It may not improbably have been
a military outpost of the Roman army. Pennant, in his tour, mentions a
legendary story of this edifice, to the effect that it was blown up by
an English page, out of revenge for some slight which his master, the
Earl of Haddington, had put upon him. The legend really belongs to
another Dunglass Castle, on the east coast, which was destroyed by an
explosion of gunpowder in 1640, when the Earl of Haddington and a number
of other gentlemen were killed among the ruins. The monument of Bell, a
somewhat stunted obelisk, was erected in 1839, on the highest point of
the rock. The situation is appropriate, as it overlooks the channel on
which Bell’s first successful experiment was made, and where, perhaps,
its noblest results have been subsequently manifested. All honour to the
memory of Henry Bell!
After lingering for some
time on the rock of Dunglass, which commands a delightful prospect of
the Clyde, with the house and policies of Blantyre immediately opposite,
we return to the highway, and resume our westward progress. The immense
crest of Dumbuck, after we pass the Milton Printworks a little to our
right, now swells upon our gaze with most impressive effect. We at once
resolve to place our foot upon the monster’s brow. Turning aside for
that purpose, we are soon threading the mazes of a devious footpath
which conducts the visitor to the summit. Beautiful in truth is the
course of that steep, winding way, overhung, as it is, by tangled
boughs, and brightened at every turn by the blooming children of June.
Wilding roses greet us with blushes as we go, and breathe their
fragrance in our very face. Sweet amid the green brackens rises the bush
o’ broom with its golden tassels waving in the wind. Now we are in the
midst of a group of stately foxgloves, which seem as if we had taken
them by surprise, and hang their heads like a bevy of modest maidens
taken unawares at play. Their confusion is really too much for us, so we
hurry on until our eye is caught by a meek family of mingled pansies and
speedwells, who look up beseeching from a verdant nook, and compel us to
our knee in fervent admiration. But we cannot tell thee, reader, of all
the fair things which minister to our delectation on this wood-environed
hill, nor of the many musical voices (those of the cushat and the merle
being preeminent) which hail us on oar way. At length we emerge from the
green gloamin’ of tHe sylvan slopes into the light of noon upon the
lofty forehead of Dumbuck. What a gush of loveliness at once flows upon
our sight! To the worshipper of the beautiful the sensation excited by
such a sweep of scenery is worth at least a monarch’s ransom. Mutely we
seat ourselves upon the now prostrate flagstaff, and feast our eyes,
ever and anon turning, and at every turn welcoming a new picture. ’Twere
in vain that we should attempt to anatomize such a comprehensive
panorama. The attempt and not the deed would in very truth confound us.
Yet we must indicate the prominent features of the several succeeding
landscapes. Looking eastward, then, we have the Clyde wriggling in light
away to the vicinity of Glasgow, with the Cathkin hills bounding the
immense basin of the river, while the conical peak of Tinto looms far
beyond in hazy indistinctness. Turning to the south, we have the opening
Frith at our feet, with steamers and other craft passing and repassing,
while the rich plains and undulations of Renfrewshire are spread as in a
map beyond, with all their towns and villages, and mansions and farms,
clearly distinguishable, and circled as with a giant frame, by the
Mearns, Gleniffer, and Port-Glasgow hills. Westward is seen Dumbarton
town and tower, with the Yale of Leven from Balloch to the Clyde, and
the noble Frith beyond stretching away in the sunny distance to Bute and
Arran; while to the north there is a bleak wilderness of barren moors,
terminating in a confused multitude of mountain peaks, deep amidst which
is seen a fine snatch of Lochlomond, with Inchmurrin peeping at us round
the dusky shoulder of an intervening hill. Such is our skeleton of the
wide domain commanded by Dumbuck, and the veriest skeleton it is in
reality. An abler pen could alone do anything like justice to the
infinite details, to the lights and the shadows, to the ever-varying
colours, and, in short, to the life of the wondrous picture. Our day has
proved better than its promise. Not that it has become by any means one
of unbroken brightness. The reverse is the case. Radiance and gloom are
evidently struggling for supremacy. Nature at present reminds us of Joe
Grimaldi —forgive the incongruous association—who could laugh on one
side of his face while he was looking daggers with the other. The
lowlands and the river are now basking in a smile of sunshine, while
there is an ominous frown hanging over the highland landscape which
excites feelings akin to terror within our breast. Not in the very heart
of the Highlands is there a track of moorland more bleak and sterile
than that which rises eastward from the green Yale of Leven to the
Longcraigs and the adjacent expanse of wilderness. The plough has never
passed over these dark ridges, where the pesewepe, the plover, and the
whaup, have long reigned in a seldom disturbed solitude. How finely
marked are the hoary trap cliffs to the right, rising like the steps of
a giant stair in successive ranges! The geologist would rejoice in their
characteristic features. But the gloom deepens among the mountains.
Benlomond disappears, and the nearer hills have donned their plaids of
mist, while, “ in the scowl of heaven,” the very loch looks dark and
disquieted. It is with a sense of relief that we turn again to the
placid and sunny lowlands. Before us lies the clear, waveless bosom of
the Clyde, all alive with shipping. Beyond is the verdant plains and
gentle slopes of Renfrew, where the blue reek is curling peacefully from
cottage and hall, and the courses of the swift-gliding trains are
indicated by the manes of snowy vapour. ’Tis a scene of industry, of
plenty, and of softest beauty. On the rich domains which now lie within
our ken many of Scotland’s noblest families have “lived and moved and
had their being.” Let us borrow a few of their names from “The Clyde” of
John Wilson, although, since his day, some have passed for ever away
from the homes of their fathers:—
"Of all the clans that
grace fair Renfrew's soil,
The first in power appears the potent Lyle,
Whose blood with graceful Egiinton’s still blends;
In Pollok’s veins and Houston's still descends
The Dennistouns of ancient wealth and fame;
The Crawfords brave, an old illustrious name;
Lindsay's high blood with ancient Barclay's joins,
And first of Scottish Earls in glory shines.
Here Wallace shone, a race of matchless might,
Gentle in peace, but terrible in fight!
The fame of Wallace never can expire,
While Scottish breasts heroic deeds admire.
And friendship hither Ross from England drew,
The royal Bruce’s fortunes to pursue;
And hence the faithful race of Erskine springs,
Marr’s Lords, the guardians of our youthful kings;
Bat high o’er all. the chiefs of Banquo’s race,
Illustrious Stuarts dignified the place."
Such is the good old
bard’s catalogue of Renfrewshire names. Prosaic enough it is, in all
conscience, and wofully incomplete; but it may serve as an index to the
historical associations of those wide and fertile domains upon which we
are now gazing.
The summit of Dumbuck is
exquisitely adorned at this season by a profusion of leaves and flowers;
and even before the majesties of Nature we can turn with delight to the
contemplation of her humblest children. We scan the foreground of our
picture with a closeness of attention which would win us the friendship
of a pre-Raphaelite. Creeping over the gray crags, see how the yellow
locks of the broom are touzled by the wind. The crimson bells of the
heather, the beautiful badge of our own clan, warm at the same time the
lonely steeps of the hill and the inmost nooks of our heart. The gowan
peeps at us from the velvet sward, with the stonecrop and the fairy
bedstraw; while the wild thyme grows in purple luxuriance, and tempts to
its honied bosom the belted bee of the sunny vales below. Among the dark
pines, which crowd around us also, the redbreast and the shilfa are
piping a summer song. ’Tis indeed a sweet spot, gentle reader! and we
must even bid thee, in the meantime, good-bye upon it, as here we intend
to abide for a season. If thou wilt favour us with thy company, we shall
next conduct thee to Dumbarton, and to the death-scene of Robert the
Bruce.
We have alluded to the
delicious upward view of the Clyde which is to be obtained from the brow
of Dumbuck. Like an immense silver corkscrew, or one of those sinuous
brands which the old painters sometimes put into the hands of an angel
warrior, the stream is seen extending far away into the bowels of the
land. This stretch of the river is the scene of Glasgow’s greatest
victory—her victory over those natural barriers in the shape of shallow
fords, rocks, and isles, which originally seemed to forbid her
achievement of commercial success. Long and arduous was the struggle
with adverse nature, but the industry and perseverance of our citizens
have at length been rewarded with an ample triumph. No river in the
world is so much indebted to artificial improvement as the Clyde in the
lower portion of its course. In its primitive condition the river was
scarcely navigable by any craft of larger dimensions than a fisherman’s
wherry. At an early period the process of deepening commenced, but it
was not until a comparatively recent date that the work made anything
like decided progress. In 1556 the inhabitants of Glasgow, Renfrew, and
Dumbarton, entered into a mutual contract to work for six weeks
alternately in summer at the ford of Dumbuck, and other shoals which
encumbered the channel and impeded navigation. By these efforts a
sufficient depth of water was obtained to permit the passage of
flat-bottomed boats from the Frith to the landing-shore at Glasgow,
which was then without a wharf of any kind. In 1688 a small quay was
erected at the Broomielaw, at an expense of 80,000 merks Scots, or
£1,666 18s. 4d. sterling. This structure extended from St. Enoch’s bum
to the vicinity of Robertson Street. About the middle of the last
century the magistrates engaged earnestly in the work of improving the
Clyde. Mr. Smeaton, the celebrated engineer, was commissioned to inspect
the river, and to draw up a report on its navigable capabilities. In
1755 he handed in a statement showing the results of his investigations.
At the Pointhouse, two miles below Glasgow, he found there was only one
foot three inches of water when the tide was out, and three feet eight
inches when it was at the highest. This gentleman proposed the
construction of a dam, with a lock at the Marlin ford, for the purpose
of securing four and a-half feet of water at the Broomielaw.
Fortunately, the scheme was not carried into effect, although an Act of
Parliament was obtained with that view. Mr. John Golbourne of Chester
was next engaged to report as to the best means of improving the Clyde.
He found the river almost in a state of nature, and that at Kilpatrick
Sands, Newshot Isle, and in various other places, there was not more
than two feet of water. He suggested that the channel should be
contracted for eight miles below Glasgow by the erection of jetties, and
that the bed of the river should be deepened by dredging. Ultimately he
was empowered to carry out the proposed operations, and in 1775 he
succeeded in his endeavours to such an extent, that vessels drawing
upwards of six feet of water were enabled to reach the Broomielaw. This
was the first great step in that work of improvement which has
subsequently made such rapid progress. Since that period, the services
of several engineers of the highest abilities have been successively
devoted to the improvement of the stream, and generally with the
happiest results. Year by year the resources of the Clyde have been
gradually developed. Its waters have been walled in by impenetrable
embankments of stone, and deepened to such a degree that the stateliest
merchantmen, and steamers of the most gigantic proportions, now pass and
repass from Glasgow to the sea, uninterruptedly and without the shadow
of danger. Unceasing efforts, however, are required to preserve the
conquest which has been made. The dredging-machine and the diving-bell
are of necessity kept ever at work; and were the energies of “the Trust”
permitted even for a brief period to slumber, we should soon have the
Clyde as in days of old, encumbered with shallows and unfavoured by the
smiles of commerce. Such a consummation, we are happy to say, is not
likely to occur in our day and generation.
We must now leave our
lofty station on the summit of Dumbuck. The day is advancing, and we
have other sights to see before its close. Like a monarch we have felt
while seated alone on this proud peak, with none to question our sway.
For a brief space the beauty of these wide-spread domains has been the
unshared tribute of our solitary ken. Lords of the soil there may be,
who call these hills and vales their own, but we have been for the time
sole lord of the loveliness in which earth, and air, and sea are
invested. Our reign, however, is of short duration. Pride must have a
fall, and relinquishing our throne, we must even descend to the level of
ordinary mortals. Taking with us, as a memorial of our visit, a tuft of
heather from the scalp of the hill, we plunge again into the woodland
walk, and with all humility, stooping beneath the overhanging boughs,
pursue our downward course. Fresh charms await our acceptance at every
turn. New blossoms seem to have sprung into being by the wayside since
we made our ascent. What a sweet coquette is June! You never find her
retaining the same dress for two consecutive days, scarcely for two
succeeding hours. She is always changing her garb; now adding a leaf,
and anon a flower to her scented garniture. At one time her rosebuds are
faintly tipped with bloomy fire; at another we find her all a-blush with
full-blown flowers, and playfully strewing the rich red petals on the
passing breeze. Narrowly, as with a lover’s eye, have we scanned her
movements, and at every meeting we have had to own her infinite variety.
We passed that dry stone-wall in going up, yet we saw not the yellow
iris by its side, and now there they are in nodding multitudes, peeping
with their sword-shaped leaves athwart its mossy ridge. How bright the
combination of green and gold in which they are dad! Truly, “Solomon in
all his glory was not arrayed like unto one of these! ”
We are now upon the
highway, and before us, about two miles to the westward, towers the
castled steep of Dumbarton. ’Tis the landmark to which we must direct
our steps. Having swallowed Dumbuck, we need not, according to the old
saying, boggle at Dumbarton. The latter has, indeed, rather a diminutive
appearance as we turn from the bold basaltic front of its gigantic
neighbour. The intervening space consists principally of fertile meadow
land, which is principally in a high state of cultivation. After the
late rains the fields are at present most luxuriantly covered with
verdure. The road withal is a pleasant one, fringed with hedgerows and
trees, and commanding to the left a succession of delightful prospects,
in all of which the Clyde is a predominant element. As there is nothing
particularly noticeable, however, on this portion of our pilgrimage, we
may as well beguile the way by taking a brief retrospective glance at
the history of that immense gray rock which looms majestically before
us, at the meeting of the waters.
To begin, then, we may
mention that the rock of Dumbarton, or Dunbarton, as it ought properly
to be called, is situated on a kind of peninsula at the junction of the
river Leven with the Clyde. It is an isolated and precipitous basaltic
crag, starting abruptly from a dead flat, and rising to an elevation of
about 206 feet above the level of the sea. It is cleft at a considerable
height into two peaks, one of which is about thirty feet higher than the
other. The general configuration of the rock is extremely picturesque,
while its immense bulk, and its wild, overhanging cliffs, and jagged
projections, are sufficiently grand and impressive. The name of the
locality signifies the fort or castle of the Bretons. Originally it
appears to have borne the name of Alduyd, or “ the rock of the Clyde,”
under which title it is mentioned by the venerable Bede, as the capital,
in his day, of a small kingdom called Strathclyde. Balclutha and other
names have also been at various times attached to this remarkable
elevation. It is supposed that the Romans had a military or naval
station here,—a supposition which is rendered probable by certain
vestiges which are still in existence. At an early period it became a
royal fortress, and the Scottish kings seem to have been always
peculiarly jealous of its possession. During the wars of Bruce and
Baliol, it fell into the hands of the usurper Edward, and it is
traditionally said that the great Scottish patriot, Wallace, was
confined for a brief period within its walls, after his betrayal by
Menteith. This fause knight was made governor of the castle by Edward,
probably as the reward of his treachery. In 1309 it was taken by Robert
the Bruce, and subsequently, in the fluctuations of internecine strife,
it changed hands many times. It was visited by Mary, Queen of Scots, in
her girlhood; and when she was about to sail for France, it was at
Dumbarton that she embarked with her retinue, included in which were the
three Marys of Scottish song. In the latter part of her reign it was
also held in her interest, and it was while she was attempting to reach
Dumbarton with her army, after the escape from Lochleven, that the
battle of Langside occurred. This fatal blow, it is well known, ruined
for ever poor Mary’s hopes of regaining the crown, and she was fain to
flee for shelter to England. Lord Fleming, the governor, however, still
kept the castle in her name, and a number of her friends found refuge
within its precincts. It was at this period that Captain Thomas
Crawford, of Jordanhill, performed the bold exploit of scaling the
castle walls and taking the fortress by storm. Crawford was an adherent
of the Lennox family, and personally attached to the husband of the
Queen, the unfortunate Daraley. After the foul death of this unhappy
individual, he gave important evidence at the trial, and boldly charged
Maitland of Lethington with being an accessory to the murder. It is
supposed that he afterwards assumed the profession of arms, and that he
took an active part in the various movements which took place in
opposition to the Queen’s authority. He was assisted in his enterprise
against Dumbarton by the Laird of Drumwhassel, a skilful officer,
Captain Hume, and a band
of about a hundred picked men. Arriving at the rock, on a dark and
tempestuous night in the month of May, 1571, with scaling ladders and
ropes, the party, under the guidance of a man named Robertson, who had
been warden of the castle, proceeded at once to the attack. On the first
attempt they experienced some difficulty in fixing their ladders, and,
even after these had been properly secured, an incident occurred which
had nearly prevented the accomplishment of their design. One of the
soldiers, when midway up the ladder, was seized with a fit, and
convulsively grasped the steps with such a death-like firmness of gripe,
that no one could relax his hold. Crawford, with the utmost coolness,
bound the poor man to the ladder, and turning it over, permitted a clear
ascent. Alexander Ramsay, an ensign, soon reached the summit, and, with
two other soldiers, leaped upon the sentinel, and slew him just as he
had given the alarm. They were soon joined by Crawford and his men, who
rushed into the garrison, awakening the inmates with the startling
war-cry of 44 a Damley! a Darnley! ” The surprise was so complete that
no effective resistance was even attempted. The governor escaped down a
passage of the rock with which he was familiar, and throwing himself
into a fishing-boat, succeeded in reaching the coast of Argyle in
safety. Hamilton, Bishop of St. Andrews—a steel-clad ecclesiastic—was
taken, with a number of other gentlemen, and Lady Fleming, the
governor’s wife. The lady was treated with the greatest kindness by the
Regent, and courteously permitted to depart with their furniture and
plate. A very different fate awaited the poor Bishop, who was generally
disliked. He was immediately thereafter tried at Stirling for the murder
of Damley, and, being found guilty, was executed with 44short shrift”
upon a tree. In the seizure of the castle, the assailants did not lose a
single man, and only four of the garrison were slain. There are few
instances of 44 derring-do,” even in Scottish history, to be compared
with that which we have thus imperfectly narrated. Of Captain Crawford’s
subsequent career but little is known. This one exploit, however, is
sufficient to preserve his name from oblivion. His memory will be for
ever associated with the rock of Dumbarton, and a nobler memorial-stone
it would be difficult to imagine. But there is another monument to our
hero in existence. It stands in the shadow of the curious old kirk of
Kilbimie, where the ancient warrior “ sleeps the sleep that knows no
breaking.” In the course of a recent ramble in Ayrshire we accidentally
discovered this interesting relic. It is a little quadrangular edifice
of sandstone, nine feet long by six in width, and about six feet in
height. In the east end there is a narrow aperture, through which, in
the interior, are seen recumbent figures of the old soldier and his
spouse, in an excellent state of preservation. On the northern wall is
the following inscription, which can only be deciphered now by the keen
eye of the antiquary:—
“GOD SCHAW
THE RICHT
Here lyis Thomas Crawford
of Jordanhill, sext son to Lawrence Crawfurd of Kilbimie, and Jonet Kerr
His Spous eldest dochter to Robert Ker of Kerrisland—1594.” In the
central compartment is a shield with the arms of the Crawfurd and Ker
families quartered, and an indistinct figure for the crest, which is
supposed to represent the rock of Dumbarton. The gallant captain, by
whom the structure was erected at the above date, died on the third of
January, 1603, about thirty-two years after his gallant midnight
achievement.
The subsequent history of
the castle presents but few features of importance. At the commencement
of the civil wars it was held in the interest of the king. It was taken
afterwards, however, in 1639, by the opposite party. The Scottish
Parliament about this time ordered the castle to be dismantled, but the
decree, it appears, was never put in execution; and Oliver Cromwell took
possession of the place in 1652. In the reign of Queen Anne the Duke of
Montrose resigned the castle into the hands of Government, and it has
ever since remained a Royal fortress. At the union of the two crowns it
was distinctly stipulated that the Castle of Dumbarton, with those of
Edinburgh, Stirling, and Blackness, should, from that time forth, be
kept in an effective condition.
Drawing near to the town
of Dumbarton, we are joined by a friend who is abundantly familiar with
the locality, and who courteously volunteers to act as our guide, when
we at once turn aside to scale the castle rock, which rises in rude
magnificence at a short distance to the left. On the northern side, by
which we make our approach, the declivity of the rock is less steep and
shaggy in its aspect than at other points of its circumference. The
slope is here covered with green turf, fretted with craggy projections
to a considerable height, where it is girdled by a high wall and other
buildings, with loopholes and embrazures for cannon. The attack of
Captain Crawford is said to have been made at this place, which is
certainly the most accessible of any, if we except the ordinary
entrance, which in times of war would of course be the most strongly
fortified and guarded. Soldiers have frequently been known at lawless
hours, and in pursuit of forbidden pleasures, to make their way out of
the garrison by this route, and after a few hours9 absence, to return by
it to their duties without being discovered. This is certainly an
illustration with a vengeance of the old song,—
“Over rocks that are
steepest Love will find out a way.”
Only a siren, we suspect,
should ever tempt us to risk our neck, by making such a perilous descent
in the dark. But,
“The light that lies In
woman’s eyes "
(may the Fates preserve
us from its influence at such a price!) has unquestionably led to more
daring adventures even than this. Turning the eastern shoulder of the
rock, which is of immense height and of the most dizzying steepness, we
soon arrive at the gateway. There is a soldier on guard, and two or
three lounging about for the purpose of attending visitors in their
peregrinations over the castle. One of them volunteers to act as our
cicerone, and his services are at once accepted. The garrison at present
is about thirty strong, including wives and children; no great force,
one would think, to receive the Russians, if by any chance Charlie
Napier should permit them to favour us with a visit.* Ascending a few
steps, we find ourselves alongside the governor’s residence, a very
plain two-storied edifice of somewhat dreary aspect, which occupies a
recess near the base of the rock. A few yards in front of this structure
there is a small battery, the guns of which are of considerable calibre,
each having a pile of shot neatly arranged beside it, and apparently
ready for action. Everything here has a clean and tidy appearance,
indicative of unceasing care.
Immediately in the rear
of the governor's house, we ascend the steep by a lengthened range of
steps through a cutting of some depth in the living rock. At an
intermediate landing-place there is a small structure over-arching the
narrow passage, in which, it is said, Wallace was confined after he was
taken prisoner in the vicinity of Glasgow. We should imagine from its
appearance, however, that it has really been erected at a much more
recent period than the era of the great Scottish patriot. On one of the
comers there is a weather-wom carving of the human face, which our
cicerone informs us is a representation of the traitor Menteith. It is
ugly enough in all conscience, but in this respect it is at least
equalled by a similar carving at the opposite angle of the building,
which is said to be “a counterfeit presentment” of the patriot chief.
Ascending another flight of steps, and passing through an arched
doorway, which is evidently of some antiquity, we arrive at the point
where the rock divides into its twin peaks, and where there is a
comparatively level space. Here the principal buildings, such as the
armoury and the barracks, are situated. None of these are of great
extent; and we must say that, as specimens of architecture, they are,
one and all, decidedly shabby. According to the stipulations of the Act
of Union, the castle has, in a certain sense, been kept in a state of
repair, but as in other cases in which merely Scottish interests are
involved, there has evidently been a due regard for economy in the
management of matters. By a steep winding stair we now ascend the
western and most elevated summit, which is surmounted by a tall
flag-staff, and the remains of a circular tower which is supposed to
have been of Roman origin. A most magnificent and far-extending prospect
here greets the eye in every direction. The general features of the
landscape, however, are somewhat similar to those observable from
Dumbuck. We have the Clyde once more expanding at our feet in all its
beauty, and stretching “ in linked sweetness long drawn out” from the
very neighbourhood of our city to the shores of Bute and Arran. Beyond
the junction of the Leven and the Clyde the green undulations of
Cardross, with their woods and their gracefully winding beaches,
although somewhat tame in character, are exceedingly pleasant to gaze
upon. The low headland of Ardmore also, and the wooded peninsula of
Roseneath in the distance, are spread before us in all their loveliness.
The waves are sporting on the sands, and the winds are making a mimic
ripple on the verdure of the fields, while the sea-birds are floating
lazily over land and sea. The most attractive picture in the circle,
however, is that which lies immediately to the north, although at
present it is seen under a somewhat unfavourable sky. In the foreground
is the town of Dumbarton, clustering on the margin of the Leven, with
its shipbuilding yards, its wharfs, and its bridges, in all the bustle
of vigorous and healthy life. The Leven, in many a sweet link, is seen
slow winding from its parent lake beyond, among woods and lawns and
villages and farms, on its brief but merry pilgrimage to the Clyde,
while the far horizon is curtained by a very wilderness of hills and
mountains. Preeminent among these, we should behold the giant shoulders
of Benlomond, but, like a son of the mist, as he is, he has thought
proper on the present occasion to hide himself in his invisible mantle,
and is nowhere to be discovered. Some other day we shall thread the
mazes of this classic vale, and skim the surface of the many-islanded
lake at its head, when we shall doubtless find the cloud-hidden Ben, and
haply place our foot upon his lofty crest. Meantime we must descend from
our altitude. Visiting in succession the battery, where Queen Victoria
held her court when she graced Dumbarton with her royal presence, the
crystal spring from which the garrison was supplied in times of siege,
and the ordnance stores upon the eastern peak, we are at length
conducted to the armoury. This department is exhibited to strangers by a
lady. Under her guidance we are conducted into a low room, containing a
quantity of military stores. Specimens of grape, canister, and other
kinds of shot, are successively submitted to our inspection, with
shells, rockets, and other deadly missiles, the merest glance at which
is sufficient to put one entirely out of conceit with the whole art of
war. Our fair instructress, however, explains the uses of each invention
dire with the most perfect coolness and composure, handling them one by
one like so many ingenious playthings. Having satisfied our curiosity in
relation to the construction of these interesting munitions of war, we
are conducted up stairs to another apartment, which is devoted to the
reception of arms of various kinds. There is here a stand of 1,000
muskets, apparently bran new, but really, we should imagine, of
considerable age, as they seem to have been constructed before the
invention of the percussion lock. We had ignorantly fancied that the
flint and steel were completely out of fashion. This may be the case in
other quarters, where they are given to change; but in the fortress of
Dumbarton the military authorities adhere to the good old system. In the
event of a hostile demonstration taking place in the Frith of Clyde (a
circumstance not altogether beyond the bounds of possibility) we should
doubtless have reason to admire this wise conservatism of the exploded
firelock! The walls of the armoury are covered with pistols and other
offensive weapons, among which are rusty .specimens of the Lochaber axe
and the skene dim, picked up on ancient battle-fields. There are also
several rudely-shaped pikes, which, we are gravely informed, were taken
from the radicals at the battle of Bonnymuir, by the gallant yeomanry of
the county. The most interesting object in the collection, however, is
an immense sword, which is traditionally alleged to have belonged to the
great hero of Scotland, Sir William Wallace. It is, in truth, a gigantic
blade, and a swordsman of extraordinary power he must have been who was
qualified to wield it. We know not on what evidence this instrument is
ascribed to Wallace, but for a very long period indeed, it has been
associated with his name; and we must admit that it was with a feeling
of reverent awe that we received it into our hands. We know there are
people who sneer at such manifestations; but the same parties could gaze
unmoved upon the fields of Bannockburn and Falkirk, and we assuredly
envy them not their cold-blooded philosophy. We trust the day will never
arrive when Scotchmen will cease to cherish with an affectionate pride
the memories of the great and good of other days, or fail to inspect
with patriotic reverence, albeit it may be mingled with a dash of
harmless credulity, such relics as the sword of Wallace. We may mention,
that large as the blade alluded to is now, it has been somewhat
curtailed of its fair proportions. A considerable fragment has been
broken off the point. All signs of the fracture were obliterated,
however, when it was taken to the Tower of London in 1825, with the
intention of preserving it among the curiosities of that fortress. A
strong feeling was naturally excited in Scotland by this ungracious
removal of a precious national memorial, and after a short interval it
was deemed expedient to restore it to its former and present
resting-place.
We must now turn our back
upon the lofty rock of the opening Frith. Few spots are so rich in
memories as this, and in the rise and fall of races, few have borne so
many names. It has been successively designated as Balclutha, Alcluid,
Theodosia, Dunbritain, and Britannio-Dunum. Through many a rude and
stormy age it has held a proud position as a place of strength; many a
direful struggle for supremacy, many a fierce encounter it has
witnessed, and through many an age unborn it will continue to bid
defiance to the wind and the rain. In the far future, even as now, the
sentimental pilgrim will come to gaze upon its hoary front, and to dream
of Ossian and of Fingal, of Wallace and of Bruce, of Crawford and of
Cromwell. As he lingers by these craggy peaks, the poet of coming years
will see, in the light of his fond imaginings, the form of Scotia’s
fair, ill fated queen, still haunting, as a troubled wraith, the
precincts of the eastled steep, and in his moments of inspiration (long
after the sceptre has fallen from her grasp) he shall picture to himself
the royal lady who, in happier times, held court upon its brow in
sunshine of the autumn noon. If there is hallowed ground in Scotland,
surely it is upon the cliffy summit of Balclutha.
The town of Dumbarton is
situated on the east bank of the Leven, a short distance above the point
where it makes its debouchure into the Clyde. The principal, or Main
Street, runs in a sort of curve, which coincides with a bend of the
stream. This thoroughfare is about half a mile in length, and is
intersected at various places by a number of smaller streets or wynds,
which branch off irregularly to the east and west. At the end next the
Castle stands the Parish Church—a plain edifice with a handsome
tower—which is surrounded by a spacious burying ground, overshadowed in
some places by umbrageous trees. The public offices, county prisons, and
other local establishments, are situated in the suburbs. Bridge-end, the
Gorbals of Dumbarton, is on the western or Cardross bank of the Leven,
and is connected with the town by a bridge of five arches, which was
erected about the middle of the last century. Dumbarton is a growing and
vigorous community. Of late, its principal trade, that of shipbuilding,
has prospered exceedingly. On both sides of the Leven there are now
large establishments for the construction of timber and iron vessels;
and during the last few years some of the most handsome specimens of
marine architecture which this country has ever produced have been
launched by the Dumbarton builders. Many hundreds of operatives are
engaged in the various yards, and the din u of hammers closing rivets
up,” resounds in this stirring locality from earliest mom till dewy eve
restores tranquillity. An extensive forge has also been erected in the
vicinity, which furnishes employment to many additional hands. In
consequence of the recent impulse given to the industrial resources of
the town, there has been a considerable increase in the population.
According to the census of 1841 the number of inhabitants was 3,754;
while in that of 1851 it had amounted to 4,546, of whom 2,345 were
males, and 2,201 were females. There is thus a minority of the fair sex
in Dumbarton, a circumstance which we imagine must exercise a favourable
influence on the matrimonial prospects of 'Dumbarton’s bonnie belles!'
These returns do not include^ we suspect, the large section of the
community which is resident on the Cardross side of the river. For the
accommodation of the increasing population a considerable number of new
edifices have recently been erected, and many others are in process of
erection. An additional suburb, containing 150 distinct domiciles, has
recently been built in the neighbourhood of the railway station at
Dalreoch. This handsome adjunct to the town is called Dennystown, in
honour of its public-spirited projector and proprietor, William Denny,
Esq., who, even as we write* has been untimely called from his earthly
labours in the fortieth year of his age, and just as he had achieved the
position to which he was entitled by his industry, intelligence, and
perseverance.
"Oh why has worth bo short
a date
While villains ripen gray with time?"
Apart from the Castle
there is but little of general interest in the history of Dumbarton. It
was made a royal burgh by Alexander II., in the year 1222, when
extensive privileges were conferred upon it, such as the lordship of
certain lands, and the right of fishing over a large tract of the
neighbouring river. Additional charters were granted to the burgh by
succeeding sovereigns, the provisions of which were ratified and
confirmed by an Act of Parliament dated 13th December, 1609. This
document, among other benefits, gave the burgesses of Dumbarton the
right of levying dues on all foreign vessels entering the Clyde, and
entitled them to demand that every vessel coming within their limits
should break bulk at the quay, and give the inhabitants the first offer
of their merchandise. These invidious privileges were subsequently the
cause of many heart-burnings and disputes between the burghers of
Glasgow and Dumbarton. Ultimately the difference was settled in 1700, by
a contract entered into between the contending parties, by which, in
consideration of having received 4,500 merks Scots, the Dumbarton
authorities gave up the right of levying the aforesaid dues, and the
contractors mutually agreed that vessels belonging to inhabitants of
Glasgow and Port-Glasgow should not pay dues at the harbour of Dumbarton
; and on the other hand, that vessels belonging to burgesses of
Dumbarton should have an equal exemption at the harbours of Glasgow and
Port-Glasgow. This contract was confirmed by Act of Parliament in 1701.
Since that period the Clyde Trustees have several times endeavoured to
relieve themselves of this engagement, both by purchase and legislative
enactment, but hitherto without success. Even so recently as last year
fresh negotiations were entered into for this purpose, but without
leading to anything like a satisfactory result. Dumbarton steamers and
Dumbarton vessels of all kinds have still the run of the river, and the
benefits of the Broomielaw, free of duty. The only relic of antiquity in
the town is an arch which is said to have formed part of an ancient
collegiate church, erected in 1450 by Isabella, Duchess of Albany and
Countess of Lennox. This interesting structure formerly stood in the
outskirts of the town, but on the formation of the railway, which passes
over its former site, it was removed in 1850 to the front of the Burgh
Academy, in Church Street. There is a somewhat inflated inscription upon
the arch, with the date of its flitting, and a statement of the
circumstances which led to its removal.
After spending an hour or
two in the hospitable cottage of our friend, the editor of the Dumbarton
Herald, we again set out on a leisurely saunter to the site of the
ancient castle of Cardross. Crossing the Leven by the Dumbarton Bridge,
from which a fine view of the river and both sections of the town is
obtained, we proceed in a northerly direction to Dalreoch Toll. Turning
to the left, by the Cardross Road, we arrive in a few minutes at the
farm of Castlehill, which is situated a little to the right of the
pathway. Adjacent to the farm offices, is a wood-covered knoll, which,
on examination, presents unmistakeable evidences that at some former
period it has been the site of a building of considerable extent. This
is, indeed, the very spot on which stood the Castle of Cardross, the
favourite residence and ultimately the death-scene of Robert the Bruce.
The structure has entirely disappeared. Not one stone stands upon
another, at least above the surface, to mark its position. Oblivion has
claimed its own—ruin has ceased its long combat with time, and the grass
grows rank and green over the dust of a royal home. There is something
peculiarly affecting in the contemplation of this perfect victory
achieved by the elements over a once proud work of human hands.
Cardross Castle, we have
every reason to believe, was at one period an edifice of a most spacious
and attractive kind. Its site commands an extensive prospect of the
surrounding country, including two glimpses of the Clyde, which are
respectively seen to the east and west, over the shoulders of an
interesting range of undulating hills. After having driven the English
invaders from his native land, and established its independence on a
firm and lasting basis, the gallant Bruce was seized with a lingering
and incurable illness. It was while labouring under this severe bodily
affliction that the Scottish king retired to Cardross. In the intervals
of his disease he found a princely recreation in the exercise of
hunting, and in works of charity. He also indulged himself occasionally
in architectural pursuits, gardening, and shipbuilding. The Dumbarton
shipbuilders may pride themselves on having had a royal predecessor in
their art. He also took a pleasure in decorating his residence, as the
chamberlain’s accounts, which are still in existence, abundantly
testify. The following items, extracted from this curious document,
afford an interesting glance into the economy of the king’s
household:—To green olive oil for painting the Royal chamber, 10s.; to
chalk for painting it, 6d.; to a chalder of lime for whitewashing it,
8s.; to tin, nails, and glass, for the windows, 3s. 4d.; to reeds for
the orchard, Is. 6d.; to a house for the falcons, 2s.; to a net for
fish, 40s.; to bringing the king’s great ship from Tarbart, 28s.; to two
masts for ships, 8s.; to conveying Peter the fool to Tarbart, Is. 6d.”
The king also kept a lion at Cardross for his amusement, and delighted
in falconry. At length, on the 7th of June, 1329, he breathed his last
in his favourite abode. Previous to his departure, the old warrior
called his barons and other officers of state to his bedside; and while
they stood around him weeping, he tendered them his best advice in
relation to the affairs of the nation. Old Froisart gives a beautiful
and affecting account of the incidents which occurred on this melancholy
occasion. Every one is aware that the dying king commissioned Sir James
Douglas, in his last moments, to carry his heart to the holy sepulchre,
and also of the fatal event which alone prevented that brave and gentle
knight from fulfilling the farewell request of his beloved master. Bruce
was interred in the Abbey Church of Dunfermline, and a handsome monument
of marble was raised over his grave by his admiring and grateful
countrymen.
After lingering in musing
mood for a brief space on the . green mound, which is all that now
remains of the princely castle of Cardross, we return to Dumbarton; and,
having parted with a kind adieu from our friend, we take our place in
"the last train,” and, by rail and steamer, are conveyed with all speed,
comfort, and safety, to the city of our habitation. |