PREFACE
Why was
this book written? Principally to satisfy
the questionings of many friends in India and the old
country, who continually write me such queries as
these:—How do you like Australia? "Would you
advise me to come out? Is it healthy? Is there any
sport to be had? Are the people really nice? Could
a man, with a small income and a large family do
anything out there? and so on. I have honestly tried to
detail my own experiences in such a way, that they
shall be usefully suggestive to
my friendly catechists and
others like them, and yet be sufficiently interesting to
command the suffrages of the general reader.
I do not
profess to be a polished writer. The graces
of my style are perhaps conspicuous by absence, yet I
would have the critic know, that I have no
opportunity of correcting
proofs. Add to this that my book has
.been written mostly on holidays, and late into the
night, after an active day's duty in the city,
when both hand and brain are
somewhat jaded. It has required
no slight sense of duty, and a desire to do some
public good to keep me up to my self-appointed
task.
I have incorporated letters
that I wrote to The Pioneer when
acting as special correspondent for that
paper, and I have tried to write naturally, truthfully,
and as I felt; where I have made extracts from
newspapers and books, I have acknowledged the obligation,
and here again thankfully do so to my unknown
friends in council.
It may be
asked what acquaintance I have with
my text, and whether I am competent to speak as a
critic, when I refer to colonial social manners
and customs, politics,
institutions and peoples. I can
only say that I have been a colonist since I was about
eighteen years of age. In New Zealand, I was by
turns cadet on a sheep-run, gold-digger,
travelling agent and general
utility-man, turning my hand to
what first presented itself, for I was young and ardent,
and willing to work and did work hard. In India I
was for twelve years Indigo planter and manager of
large estates. Since I returned to the antipodes,
I have been journalist,
traveller, special correspondent,
newspaper manager, and am now secretary of an
insurance company. I claim therefore as a
traveller, and an observant man,
to know something about the
colonies. The success of a former book, and the very
favourable criticisms it received, has emboldened
me to commit this present volume
to the winds and waves of public
opinion.
I honestly
love Australia. It has become a healthy,
happy home to me, after I had been given up by my
medical friends as almost a hopeless case. I like
the Australian people—the young people especially—
and I want my book, if they read it, to do more
than merely amuse, I want it to
awaken thought. They will find
here, written by no unfriendly hand, with no
bias or prejudice, the opinions of a cosmopolitan. I
have spoken strongly on colonial public life, and
public men, and public measures, but not more so
than the subject deserves.
The future
of Australia lies in the hands of her
young men. If they use the mighty power they
possess, and send the right men to their
parliaments and councils, and
purge them of corrupt government,
and look on things with a wider and more comprehensive
vision; say less, and act more, in fact: act
righteously and honestly and loyally, and if my pages
of sporting recollection, scenic description, and
straightforward criticism, shall conduce in the
least degree to this result, I
shall think my night oil has
burned to good purpose.
I am under
great obligations to Mr. R. Scott of
Newcastle, for fishing and shooting notes, and to Dr.
S. T. Knaggs of the same city for much kind
assistance, and to Mr. Gr.
Ranken, "Capricornus," for much counsel
and kindly help.
JAS.
INGLIS.
Strathfield, Sydney, N.S.W.,
August, 1879.
CONTENTS
Chapter I.
A retrospect—I start from Calcutta—Our steamer and
cargo—Down the Bay—Penang—The Cowree Festival.
Chapter
II.
Singapore—My impressions of the island—Start for Australia—
Among the islands—Torres Straits—Our
Captain—Passengers and Chinese doctor—Somerset—Looking back—Colonial
evidences—A bush dandy—The pearl-shell Fishery—
The divers' boats and details of the Fishery—The pearl
oyster—Incidents of the Fishing—Curious facts in
natural history—Sharks.
Chapter
III.
The missionary—New Guinea—Early discoveries—Recent Expeditions—General
description of the island—Animals—
Natives — Curious customs—Deadly climate—Legends—
General remarks.
Chapter
IV.
We leave Somerset—The Australian coast—The "Black Fellows"
—A wreck—Brisbane—Aspect from the river—Signs of
progress—Hotels—Loungers at the bars—The streets—Houses
of Parliament—View of the city—Queensland a fine
"poor man's" country.
Chapter V.
Regaining health—An Easter trip up the coast—My travelling
companion—We travel steerage—Experience of a
colonial coasting trip—Ration
tea—General discomforts of colonial
travel—Across the bar—Our reception by our host—The
fishing station—The dugong—Mode of capture—Its
uses— The black fellow
assistants—A domestic squabble—Customs
of the black fellows—A native battle.
Chapter
VI.
A corroborree—Discomforts of camp life—Treatment of the
natives—The native police—British pluck and
Christian courage—How the blacks
are dealt with.
Chapter VII.
Start for Maryborough—A colonial conveyance—A drive
through, the bush—Mosquitoes—A
bush inn—We reach Maryborough—The sugar-cane country—Alford sugar estate—
Method of cultivation—Yengarrie Factory—Mode of
manufacture—The cheap labour question—Kanaka recruiting—
Burning questions of the day—Class antagonism.
Chapter
VIII.
Return to Brisbane—A ride by rail to Ipswich—Scenery on the
line—Venality of legislators—The Bathurst
burr—Grass seeds—The sida retusa—Ipswich—The
Grange Stud Farm —The horse
trade with India—An Indo-Australian trading
company—Excellence of Australian stock.
Chapter
IX.
Natural wealth of Australia—Neglect of agriculture—Proposals
to establish experimental farms—Apathy, indolence,
and ignorance prevalent—My own
experiments with Indian
seeds—Indian products for Australia—Resume of the salient
points of indigo culture—Probable result of its
introduction into
Australia—Mustard and rape seeds—How grown—
Linseed — Sesamum — Castor plant —Hemp—Safflower—
Millets—General remarks.
Chapter X.
The marsupial plague—Young of the marsupiata born—What is a marsupial?—Able
account by a "Bush Naturalist".
Chapter
XI.
A kangaroo battue—Mr. Bracker of Warroo—The Darling
Downs—Warwick and Stanthorpe—Varieties of marsupials
—Pikedale Station—The scene of operations—The
line— The beaters—Old wombat—The beat—Fierce excitement—
Incidents of the sport—A Spartan meal—Camping
out—A monster bag—Waste of
skins—How these might be utilized
—A letter from the Globe on the subject—Pikedale Wash
Pool—Tin mining—The present and future of
Queensland.
Chapter
XII.
Sydney—Her magnificent harbour—Its unrivalled beauties—
The city—General charge of dirtiness—Not so bad as
it is generally
painted—Comparison of Sydney with other towns
—Sydney for her age a wonderful city—Eapid extension—
General aspect of the city—The suburbs—Suburban
villas— Sydney freestone—Small
allotments and undue subdivision
of land—Absence of cottage gardens—Want of sanitation—
The term "Cornstalk"—Sydney streets—Public
buildings —Causes of her chronic
indebtedness—Unfitness of her
aldermen—Testimony of one of their number—Summary.
Chapter XIII.
Sydney shop-fronts—Verandahs—Hitching horses to the
side- posts—Wonderful
docility of the horses—How they are
trained—Cabs and cabmen—The hotels—Drinking habits—
The licensing system—Need of reform—Hotels and
boarding-houses—The parks—Municipal incompetence—Loungers on the
pavements—Shop-runners—The streets on
Saturday night—The Sydney Larrikin—Selfishness of the
wealthier classes—Honour to whom honour is
due.
Chapter
XIV.
Workmen's combinations—Fear of strikes retards industry—
Condition of the Australian workmen—Swagsmen and
Loafers—Friendly Benefit Societies—Rules, working,
and objects—The Club
doctor—Abuses in the system—Accident Assurance—Comparison—Life
Assurance—The Mutual Provident
Society—The Mutual Life Association—Insurance agents—Insurance
returns—Australian prosperity—
Building Societies—Workmen's wages—Labour—Summary.
Chapter
XV.
The railway terminus two miles from the sea—Amazing red-
tapism—How not to do it in Australia—The railway—
Paramatta—Views along the line—John
Chinaman—Beauty of the
scenery—The great Zigzag—Govett's Leap—The Blue
Mountains—Hartley Vale—Dargan's Creek—Mineral wealth y
of the district—Kerosine shale deposits—The
sugar-loaf estate—Reports by
Professor Dawkins and Professor Tate—
Openings for capitalists.
Chapter
XVI.
Sporting proclivities—Gambling and betting—Lord Harris and
the Cricketing Association of New South
Wales—Colonial crowds—A public
holiday—Bookmakers the vultures of
society—Their influence subversive of true sport—A water
party on the harbour—Our host and
hostess—Australian ladies—Less
constraint and conventionality than in England—Precocity of the girls—Beauty
of the harbour—Monman's Bay—A
merry party—The eight-oar race between the rival
colonies—Account of the race between Trickett and Rush
for the championship of the world
Chapter
XVII.
An Easter outing in the Antipodes—Arrangements for the party
—Our comrades and their appearance—The start—We
steam round to Port Hacking—Our camp—A damper—A
bad night—Dawn in Australia—After wallaby—A gem in
the forest—A pull up the river—Splendid
scenery—The lyre bird—A camp
feast—Hooked through the hand—
Disembarkation.
Chapter XVIII.
I become manager of a newspaper—Australian journalism—
Editors in the Antipodes—Characteristics of the
Australian Press—General high
tone of same—The Sydney Morning
Herald—Literary talent plentiful, but ill-remunerated—The
Australian Magazine—Sydney Punch—Illustrated
Sydney News—Newspaper
correspondents—The Miners' Advocate—
General estimate of the colonial press.
Chapter
XIX.
The city of Newcastle, New South Wales—Buildings, wharfs,
cranes, &c.—Badly laid out—The
sand-drift—Subordination of great national works to petty local
wants—Negligence of sanitary principles—Want of public spirit—Want
of a proper water supply—The filth and squalor of
a colonial town—How contagion
spreads—The shipping—Pall of
smoke—Port defences—The coal trade—Devices for keeping
up the price of coal—Short history of the
relations between the masters
and miners—The Yend Scheme—Both sides—
The miners—Their sports and general characteristics—
Chinese gardeners—Miners' houses.
Chapter
XX.
A trip to Lake Macquarrie—Beauty of the forest—First view of
the lake—Boating and fishing—Our Charon—Destructive
fishing—Pot-shooting—Want of a close season—Musk
ducks —Black swans—The Heads at
the lake—Chinaman colonists—Scenery—Oysters—Their excellence and abundance
—Present system of oyster culture crude and
wasteful— Importance of the
-industry—Plans in vogue elsewhere—
What might be done in Australia—Present apathy and
neglect.
Chapter
XXI.
Deep-sea fishing in Australia—Schnapper fishing—Acclimatization making
progress—The fishing grounds—My friend
Bob—Rock fishing—Growing scarcity of fish—Bait— U
Lines—Black bream—Best time for fishing—Best
localities —Groper and rock
cod—Flat-head and tailor fish—Gar
fish—Sting ray-sharks—Fishing incidents—Leather jackets
and green eels—Anecdotes.
Chapter
XXII.
Fresh-water and fly-fishing in Australia—Varieties—Native
modes of fishing—The fresh-water tortoise—Spearing
fish— The fish of the Western
waters—The platypus—The fresh i/
water eel—Perch and herring—Fly-fishing on the Hunter—
Fishing notes by Bob—Shooting—Sport on the
Lachlan— Varieties of wild
fowl—Pigeons—Character of the country—Incidents of
duck-shooting—Deterioration of the sport—
Pot shooting—Necessity for conservation—Snipe in Hexham
swamps—Anecdotes—The wood duck—Its cunning and
sagacity—The Australian crow—Anecdotes—The shrike
or butcherbird—Sparrowhawk—Magpie—Future
prospects of sport—The
Acclimatization Society—The Animals Protection Act.
Chapter
XXIII.
Climate of Australia—Sites for a sanitorium—Start for Mount
"Wilson—My host—The road-side publican—Types of
colonial character—The parvenu—Vulgarity and boorishness—
"Young Australia" in the bush—Domestic servants—
Argument on the subject—The beauty of Mount
Wilson— General
description—Luxuriance of the vegetation—The
tree ferns and scrub—Sassafras and Messmate—Wild fruits,
mosses, and plants—Clearing—A bush store—Cascade—
Opinion on the climate by one of the leading
Sydney physicians— Prospecting for a section—Forest scenery and .
denizens—Wild indigo—Plants that might be
introduced— Casting about for
water—Lunch in the bush—The awful
silence—Forest leeches—Wynn's Rocks—Grandeur and
sublimity of the desolation—A magnificent
panorama— What a country for
game!—The mountain land—Timber
clearing—A field for labour—False ideas of speedily acquiring riches—A bush
interior—Prodigality—The kind of
labour we want—How men can rise—Advice to the
newcomer.
Chapter
XXIV.
The functions of Government—Estimate of colonial Parliaments
—Rallying cries—Many of our legislators unfit for
their position—At war with
"Society"—Parliament degraded
into a court of petty causes—Sir Henry Parkes on the subject—Extract from
the Sydney Daily Telegraph—Municipal councils—Difficulty of finding good
men—Constituencies to blame—The qualities they appreciate in their
representatives—Beggarly dependence on the
State—Good men disinclined to
enter public life—Necessity for a Cobden
Club—An overgrown Civil Service—Selfishness and apathy
in high places—My opinions corroborated by a
well-known writer—"Capricornus"
on Australian statesmanship—Deterioration of the Civil Service—The same
writer on this subject—Jealousy
of outside criticism—Deep-seated diseases
require strong remedies.
Chapter
XXV.
The land question—The burning question of the day—The land
settlement—The early policy—Free selection—Objects
of the Act of 1861—Abuses that have arisen—Repudiation
looming in the distance—Feuds between squatter and
selector—How the case now stands—Reasoning by
analogy —The land system of.
India—Its broad and leading principles—How the revenues are raised—The
Cornwallis Settlement—The
Punjaub system—Periodical assessments
—"Waste lands reclamation in Oudh and the North-West—
The present problem in Australia—No more
alienation— Rotten
legislation—Recent legislation—The new proposals
—General summary.
Chapter
XXVI.
Argument continued by illustration and from personal experiences in land
settlement—The work of settlement in Oudh
—Fixity of tenure and easy conditions—Surveys and
improvements—Village settlements—Importation of labour—
The labour question—Misstatements and false
views—Coolie labour—More labour
wanted—Anti-immigrationists—Protectionists in disguise—More abundant labour
the. talisman of Australia's
development—The reign of the carpet-baggers
—No progress without population—Words of an Australian
poet
Chapter
XXVII.
Scheme of land reform by "Capricornus"—Commutation of
existing rights—Survey before
settlement—Demarcation of
agricultural and pastoral areas—Land operations in New
Zealand—Railways and public works—Imported labour—
Fixity of tenure—Employment of capital—Rents and
cesses —Title direct from the
State—Local land boards—A model
land tax—Objections—The right of the State to a moiety of
the unearned increment—Centralization—A nomadic
race the result of the present
system—Tenant-right—Low-cost
railways—Foreign capital—Inducements to capitalists—
Results of a wise and liberal land
reform—Conclusion— Advance,
Australia.
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