Larbert, notwithstanding its significant
etymology, is no field of action; rather a quiet and stirless sort of
village, with a parish population of about 5,000. But half a century
ago, when the late Mr. Ramsay, of Barnton, drove his "four in
hand" for the conveyance of travellers between Stirling and
Edinburgh, and vice versa, the dull monotony of the place was at
intervals, relieved by a passing excitement. This hamlet, in its water
power, offers rare resources for manufacturing; and the wonder is that
some busy mill has not ere now been erected here. The Caledonian Railway
also runs within gunshot; while an abundance of female labour might
likewise be had from the adjoining districts.
Entering the churchyard, the ruins of the
"old kirk" first arrest attention. The house, which was of
oblong form, and severely plain, was built by Robert Bruce of Kinnaird,
who for many years officiated as pastor. But nothing whatever of the old
sanctuary remains save the walls of the session-house, within which lies
the dust of several members of the ancient families of Elphinstone and
Dundas. Contiguous to the church entrance, stood the "Deil’s
Stane;" so called from its having borne those foul images of
mortality, the skull and cross-bones. How infinitely more worthy of a
Christian country the spiritual symbolism which heathen philosophy and
art delighted in – a butterfly arising from a chrysalis? Here moulder
the ashes of Bruce, who was buried directly underneath the pulpit. It
was this manly, resolute, and learned Scot who had the somewhat
extravagant compliment from James VI. of being "worth half of the
kingdom;" a kingliness of character, however, which, with the
fickle monarch, afterwards led to Bruce’s imprisonment and temporary
banishment. A simple stone, rudely sculptured, marks the spot of his
sepulture. Thus runs the inscription: - "Christos in vita et in
morte lucrum." An iron railing, chaste in design, has lately been
placed round the grave.
Another tomb-stone indicates the last
resting-place of the Rev. Francis M’Gil. The brief career of this
talented young minister was marked by few eventual incidents, but the
acceptance with which he laboured among an affectionate and appreciative
people in the assiduous discharge of his pastoral duties, made his
premature death a bitter heart-grief throughout the united parishes of
Larbert and Dunipace. Ordained in 1843, he died, January, 1847, in his
twenty-eighth year. On the north side of the monument we have the last
text from which he preached, - John ix. 4. There are other incriptions
which speak eloquently of the deceased clergyman’s worth in the pulpit
and family, but this laconic epitaph might, of itself, have sufficed: -
"Obdormivit in Christo."
The Rev. John M’Laren, with an
assistant, is presently minister here and at Dunipace. After a hard and
bitter contest, through another presentee, he succeeded Mr. M’Gil, and
soon won, as he has retained, the sincere respect of all classes of his
parishioners.
In the north-west corner of the
churchyard an iron railing, of good height, surrounds the burial-place
of the Carron family. Within the enclosure stands a tasteful obelisk of
granite to the memory of Joseph Dawson, who was manager for the company,
from 1825 to 1850; and immediately behind this is a structure, chaste
and simple, to Joseph Stainton, who preceded Mr. Dawson in office, while
on the south side a mausoleum, in the form of a small Greek temple of
elegant proportions, has been erected over the grave of William Dawson,
late manager of the works. At one end is a gate of beautiful bronze
work, having an open lattice in its upper half, through which a view may
be had of the interior. In this shrine, or cella, which is lighted from
the roof, a marble statue, representing the "Angel of the
Resurrection" was placed a few months ago. Carved out of a speckled
block of white marble, the statue rests on a low basement of bluish grey
Sicilian, harmonising in style with the architecture of the mausoleum.
The figure, which is on a scale somewhat larger than life, has been
designed in a sitting posture, body and limbs being draped in a loose
robe, through which the contours are freely expressed. The right hand
grasps a straight trumpet, which is held in a diagonal position across
the breast, while the left rests easily on a closed book lying upon the
lap. The head is held erect, with an upward look that indicates
expectancy, and with this the whole attitude happily corresponds, the
disposition of the lower limbs bespeaking readiness to rise on the
giving of the watched-for signal.
But the tomb-stone here of real note is
that over the remains of James Bruce, the Abyssinian traveller, who
achieved, in part, what mankind had been struggling after for three
thousand years – the tracing to its source of the Bahr-el-Azrek, or
Blue Nile. Down in a sheltered enclosure to the south of the churchyard
stands the spiral monument, wrapt in utter stillness, and which, adorned
with various emblematical figures and Greek inscriptions, was erected by
Bruce to the memory of Mary Dundas, his wife, who died February 10th,
1785. On another side we also read that "In this tomb are deposited
the remains of James Bruce, of Kinnaird, who died on the 27th
April, 1794, in the sixty-fourth year of his age. His life was spent in
performing useful and splendid actions; he explored many distant
regions; he discovered the fountains of the Nile(?); and traversed the
deserts of Nubia. He was an affectionate husband, an indulgent parent,
an ardent lover of his country. By the unanimous voice of mankind, his
name is enrolled with those who were conspicuous for genius, for valour,
and for virtue."
"Rear high the
cenotaph of stone and lime;
‘Tis all ye can do; he hath done the rest.
Fame in his heritage; impartial time
Shall know him when the walls are ruin-drest."
Some twenty-three years ago, a loudly
called-for addition was made to the burial ground, by the yet thinly
tenanted "acre" that adjoins the manse garden on the west.
Among the first entombments here was that of a local lad, Tom Aitken,
who was cut off suddenly in the springtime of his life, while showing
unmistakeable signs of genius and high achievement. His nature was
winning and gentle, yet full of force and character.
"’Twas in the flush
of fiery youth he went,
His work unwrought, his laurel wreath unwon."
The intense and wide-spread excitement
which prevailed in the earlier part of the present century from the
cruel trade of body-snatching, must be fresh in the memory of many still
alive. In grave spoliation for purposes of dissection, only one
"subject" was known to have been taken from the Larbert burial
ground. It was that of a girl named Moir, whose corpse was lifted
shortly after interment. But the young "Athenians" were not
allowed to carry her far. On their route to Edinburgh, they had, for the
night, to conceal the body in a dung-heap at Polmont; and the proprietor’s
carts proceeded in the morning for a portion of the manure, the
diabolical theft was opportunely detected. Nor did the upturning of the
corpse create any great surprise. Its presence, at least, was no matter
of prolonged bewilderment. The student enterprise was caught at a
glance. Night again came, and watch was laid for the return of the
"burglars"; and, just as had been anticipated, forward drove
the Surgeon Square party for the body. No sooner, however, had they left
with their charge, than Mr. Scott, of Gilston, rode smartly on in front
of them; and, by the time they reached Linlithgow, the whole strength of
the town was turned out for their defeat. Rough, indeed, was the usage
they received. Not only was the corpse most unceremoniously taken from
the conveyance, but the machine itself was drawn to the roadside and
broken to fragments. The body of the young woman was afterwards brought
back to Larbert and reinterred. For some months after this, the
watch-house – still standing in the churchyard – was regularly
occupied. Latterly, however, burial ground watching became a mere farce.
A curious class of friendly societies
arose out of the resurrectionist panic which thus set in, about 1829, on
the detection of Burke and Hare. They were called mortcloth and safe
societies. The mortsafe was a heavy metal case, or a wooden-house with a
stone, which was put over the coffin of the dead for some weeks after
interment, and watched by a party of members, to all of whom both
mortcloth and safe were free; but, at the same time, were let out on a
charge to non-members.
We have spoken of the old kirk of Larbert.
But what of the new? Of the common Tudor style, it is yet a model
edifice, and charmingly situated on the north bank of the Carron; whose
lullabying waters, now in pools, now in shallows, wimple peacefully down
through the gleaming arches of the adjacent viaduct. Soothingly sweet,
too, almost beyond rivalry, are the melodious tones of its Sabbath bell.
Larbert house, for many years the
residence of the Stirling-Chalmers family, lies concealed on the north.
The estate, though small, is finely wooded – a really pleasant
loophole of retreat, and was lately the property of Mr. John Hendrie,
coalmaster, Glasgow. Here, also, in the valley of the river, on the
former site of a snuff-mill, are the Carron Company’s grinding works
for the polishing of smoothing-irons, and other metal articles requiring
high finish.
Stenhousemuir, once known simply as
Sheeplees, has now a population of fully 2,000. The houses of the
orderly little hamlet, chiefly one and two storeyed, have an exceedingly
clean and comfortable look; and belong, for the most part, to the
occupants who are employed at Carron. Southwards, the village view is
beautiful, embracing the Falkirk braes, with a lovely undertract of
country; and on the east, the thick woods of Callendar, with the hill of
Cocklerue, which stands 911 feet above the level of the sea. The only
public works in the immediate vicinity, in addition to those at Carron,
are the foundry of Messrs. Dobbie & Forbes, and an extensive
timber-yard belonging to Mr. James Jones. In February, 1861, a penny
savings’ bank was started in the village by several local gentlemen,
the present membership of which is about 400; while the weekly deposits
average 20 pounds. In 1862, its capital on hand was 353 pounds; in 1867,
675 pounds; in 1872, 1,028 pounds; in 1877, 1,884 pounds; and in 1879,
2,105 pounds.
A handsome public hall, which has been
erected near the south-east end of the tryst ground, speaks of the local
volunteers. Through the purchase of shares, individually, to a gross
capital of 400 pounds, these riflemen got themselves furnished with the
above fine building, which includes an excellent officers’ room and
armoury. An extensive library, consisting of popular modern works, has
also been added to the other advantages of this "enterprise"
on the part of the Carron corps.
At the east end of the muir we have the
Free Church – an unassuming building with burial-ground attached, of
which the Rev. Finlay Macpherson is pastor. The Rev. John Bonar,
latterly of Glasgow, who was first and former minister here, came out of
the local parish kirk at the Disruption of 1843, and many of the
inhabitants must still have a vivid recollection of the services given
by that earnest divine the Sabbath following the leave-taking at Larbert.
The people, of whom there were a considerable number, met under the
shade of the grand old thorn, near Torwood glen, which may still be seen
in a green and fruitful maturity, marking the spot of the
excommunication of Charles II., Duke of York, by the persecuted but
undaunted Donald Cargill; and the scene was undoubtedly impressive as
the long grey locks of the impassioned preacher ever and anon rose and
shook in the breezy air.
The estate of Stenhouse, the property of
Sir William C. Bruce, Bart., lies about a mile to the east. The founder
of this family was a brother of Robert Bruce of Kinnaird. His eldest
son, William, a man of splendid parts, was created a baronet of Nova
Scotia by Charles I., in 1629. Stout in heart, strong in limb, and sound
in brain were several of those forerunning Bruces. There was even the
Sir Michael, for example, of Arthur’s O’on notoriety, whose eldest
son would be a soldier. As he left the parental roof –
"Andrew," said the father, "if I thought you’d turn
your back upon man, I’d shoot you where you stand." Then followed
the mother’s gentle yet not less valour-inspiring counsel –
"Never take an affront, Andrew, nor ever give one." How like
the heroic precept which the Spartan mothers were wont to give their
sons as they set out for the battlefield – "Either bring home
your shield, my boy, or be brought home upon it."
As to the origin of the Falkirk Trysts,
still held here, little definitely is known. Their establishment,
however, was beyond doubt subsequent to the Union. Duncan Shaw, of
Crathinard, who is said to have originated the markets, acted at one
time as a cattle-drover. He appeared at Falkirk in 1710 with a specially
large drove, a number of which he was commissioned by neighbours and
others to sell. An Englishman, apparently wealthy, offered to purchase
the whole. The bargain was struck, and the animals driven away; but the
purchaser also disappeared without paying. Shaw on his return sold
Crathinard to Farquharson of Invercauld, and paid his neighbours what
was due them, as well as his other creditors by whom he had been
entrusted with part of the cattle. He then took a lease of Cranthard, in
Glenisla, from the Earl of Airlie, and transported his numerous family
thither, some on horseback, and the children in baskets slung on ponies
– the usual mode of conveyance in those days. Six years afterwards he
again met his customer at a market in Forfar. The delinquent professed
great penitence, paid his old debt, and purchased Shaw’s present
stock, for which he gave ready money then and there. Shaw treated his
retainers so liberally on this occasion that it became a common saying,
when there was a good market, that there had not been one like it since
the time when Duncan Shaw’s men drunk their bickerfuls of whisky.
The first of these once great cattle
markets took place on the Redding Ridge, and occurred annually. They
were, however, only two in number, instead of three as latterly – held
in the months of August, September, and October. Eventually came their
removal further west to the lands of Roughcastle, in the neighbourhood
of Greenhill; and where, along the summit of the moor, tents were
erected for the convenience and comfort of dealers. It was not until the
year 1785 that the trysts were held on the large common of 75 acres at
Stenhousemuir, a site than which none could be more suitable and
central. The wild and open character of the Bonnymuir locality no doubt
influenced the Highlanders to seek more sheltered quarters from their
friend the Sassenach. Yet even the present stance, eighty years ago, was
rugged and moorish enough, being little better than a perfect cover of
broom, and which was so strong in the growth that the herd boys from the
adjacent farms had to mount their phail-huts to see, from the movement
of the bushy branches, the whereabouts of their scattered cattle.
At the outset, the show of animals was
limited, both as regards sorts and numbers. During 1825 and 1840, there
was not a white beast to be seen at these trysts. But, eventually,
Irish-bred cattle appeared, and afterwards the shorthorns; when the
business of dealing in north country stock came to be worthless. Mr. M’Combie
of Tillyfour, whose name will always be associated with the breeding of
polled cattle, had, as a rule, the best beasts on the ground. At one of
the Michaelmas markets, he sold 1,500 head; and the highest figure here
for feeding animals, sixty years ago, was 13 pounds. The Williamsons of
St. John’s Wells, Bethelnie, and Easter Crichie; and the Armstrongs
from Yorkshire, bought largely of good cattle at the trysts; while
another English dealer, Robert M’Turk, whose credit was unlimited, has
been known to purchase seventy score of highlanders without dismounting
from his pony. The Carmichaels were also an extensive firm of English
buyers; but when cattle were selling dear, dealers from England, Wales,
Ireland, and all parts of Scotland congregated at Larbert.
The locomotive, however, has swept away
much that was interesting in connection with the trysts. There is no
longer the stir either of dealers or "droves" that once
characterised the Stenhousemuir neighbourhood on their approach. The
pasture fields for miles around were wont to be literally packed with
sheep and cattle; and the incessant bleatings and rowtings that were
heard morning, noon, and night, from every point of the parish, together
with the barking-din of the dogs, and the impassioned shoutings and
whistlings of the Gaels, broke, in liveliest fashion, the quiet monotony
of village life. Sellers, in fact, were usually forward by the Friday of
the preceding week, and it was no uncommon thing to see them in the
market the following Thursday; whereas, in these snorting steam days,
they may be said to arrive at Larbert in the morning, and to depart the
same afternoon for their mountains and their homes.
A description of the tryst-ground on the
Tuesday, say, of the October fair, would, no doubt, form a page of
attractive reading; but a spectacle so bewildering in brute bustle could
only be graphically depicted by a master-pen. During the heat of
business, we have seen some fifty acres fully occupied with the various
concomitants of the market; and sellers know well that both cattle and
sheep are the better of a good rouse up when the buyer is inspecting
them. But none of the many breeds which are there brought into keen
competition look half so noble as the brave west-highlander.
"The watchful eyes
are fierce, yet soft,
As falcon’s o’er her harried nest;
His curving horns and shaggy crest
Are swept aloft.
Beyond the snow of Ben-y-Gloe,
He sees upon the mountain’s face
The birth-place of his hardy race,
His own Glencoe."
The refreshment tents are invariably
planted on the east side of the muir; three or four of which have
banking-boxes attached where payments, by the principal buyers, are
generally made. And here, there is also the horse market numerously
stocked with all sorts of the animal from the finest Clydesdale to the
shaggiest Shetland pet. The strip of ground that lies within the double
line of tents forms an excellent run for the "coupers" in
galloping out their spirited roadsters under the rousing din of hat and
whip-shaft. The weekly auction sales, now common in almost every country
town, have greatly affected the numbers of both cattle and sheep that
were wont to be shown at these once large and widely-known markets; but
horses, on the other hand, are, year after year, as numerous and varied
in class and character as the tryst-ground even in its palmiest days
exhibited. Twelve years ago, a series of monthly markets for the sale of
feeding stock were opened, and have proved a decided success.
In the same neighbourhood we have two
very handsome and imposing buildings – the Scottish National
Institution for the Training of Imbecile Children, and the Lunatic
Asylum for the counties of Stirling, Dumbarton, Linlithgow, and
Clackmannan. The situation of the establishments is all that could be
desired; while the locality is alike healthy and picturesque. About
fourteen years ago, a few gentlemen, stimulated by the labours of Dr.
Guggenbuhl amongst the cretins of Switzerland, commenced a small
institution in Edinburgh for the education of imbeciles, which was
afterwards transferred to the district of Larbert. And here we have
certainly one of our most excellent charities. It is computed that, in
Scotland alone, there are at least 3000 idiots, a large portion of whom
are the children of poor parents who are unable to do anything either
for them or with them. In this institution, of which Mr. W.W. Ireland is
medical superintendent, there are now 71 male and 41 female pupils, from
six years old and upwards. The buildings, however, are capable of
accommodating from 200 to 250 inmates. A pretty flower-bordered walk
leads up to the chief entrance; but a considerable space is allotted to
play-grounds, bright with gowans and buttercups, and bearing plenty of
grass for the little "feeble folk" to tumble in.
In connection with the Lunatic Asylum
there are a farm of 75 acres, and pleasure grounds extending to 20. The
building, which stands well to the south of the property, lies almost
parallel to the Institution for Imbeciles that overlooks the western
bank of the Caledonian Railway at Muirhall. It is situated, as we have
said, in a quiet and thoroughly rural district, at a distance from any
large centre of population, yet not so entirely removed from the healthy
activity of industrial life as to render the place depressing from felt
isolation. But an expenditure of 40,000 pounds should have something
striking to show for itself. And the lineaments of the building lean to
the massive side. With a frontage, or façade, of 340 feet, and a wing
on east and west 170 feet in depth, its appearance, as you approach it
from the tryst-ground, is imposing. Internally, the house is perfect –
compact, comfortable, and commodious. The dining-hall, which is formed
on the ground floor in front of the centre block, measures 53 feet by
28; adjoining it on either side are
the day-rooms, lavatories, laundry,
&c. The chapel stands immediately over the dining-hall, and is of
similar dimensions. At present, the asylum, which is under the medical
superintendent of Mr. James Maclaren, contains 153 males, and 163
females. Since its opening, about ten years ago, there have been
admitted for the first time 1,066 patients, and re-admitted 186, making
a total of 1,252. Stirling county, with a population of 98,218, sent
598; Dumbarton, with 58,659, sent 310; Linlithgow, with 40,695, sent
176; and Clackmannan, with 23,747, sent 139.
Medical knowledge has certainly greatly
advanced of late years with regard to the treatment of the insane. How
appalled we stand at the ignorance which was displayed by the old mad
doctors in their management of the class, whether suffering from simple
monomania or from general derangement of the intellect. Chained in
filthy cells, and couched on straw, even the least refractory were
treated more like vicious brutes than human beings. But while it does
our humanity credit that barbarous devices for the torture of the
mentally afflicted are things of the past, the feeling is common that
our present system of asylum management is conducted on too grand and
indulgent a scale; and the question is bound to force itself sooner or
later on the country as to whether our pauper lunatics might not be
cared for kindly and comfortably at far less cost. |