Immediately to the east of the Kinnaird
mansion – a house built to be lived in, not looked at – we have one
of the prettiest objects on this old estate, in the form of a
magnificent arcade of lime trees. Within the garden there are also two
planes of gigantic dimensions, growing side by side, with a rustic seat
between, which were planted by Bruce, the preacher, and his wife in
commemoration of their marriage. It was here where the distinguished
divine passed away, without pain or sickness, in August, 1631, aged
seventy-seven years. When his sight failed him, he called for the family
Bible, and asked his finger to be placed on Romans viii, 28, and told
those present that he died in the faith of what was there contained.
It was within this house, too, that
Bruce, of Abyssinian fame, met with the fatal fall. The trophies which
he brought with him from abroad are here carefully preserved, and form
an interesting little museum. There are among other memorials of the
exploratory tour, a cloak and cap – hemp-woven, and clad with feathers
of scarlet and black – which were presented to the traveller by the
chief who murdered Captain Cook; a petrified impression of a horse’s
knee-joint, wonderfully distinct; a phial of water from the
"fountain" of the Nile; a numerous assortment of reptiles in
bottles; the clock, carried by Bruce over his rambles, which has a
pendulum of triangular devices’ a great old astronomical quadrant of
brass, of two or three feet radius, a camel’s load of itself; some
rifles, Turkish sabres, and other arms from the Levant; helmets from
Otaheiti; various fragments of Egyptian antiquities; a number of small
antique bronzes, and Greek and Roman coins collected by Bruce in the
countries which border the Mediterranean. The works contained in the
portfolios consisted of architectural drawings of the Roman triumphal
arch at Tripoli, and of aqueducts and other ancient buildings, near the
site of Carthage, on the north-east coast of Africa, and unpublished
botanical drawings of Abyssinian plants; and likewise a host of other
odds and ends, all interesting, more or less, from certain associative
stories of their own. But there was also an Ethiopic version, from the
Greek, of the Book of Enoch, which the traveller placed in the hands of
his countrymen by his Abyssinian expedition. These prophecies of Enoch
and Noah, were well known to the early fathers of the church, although
they had been entirely lost sight of during the middle ages. The work,
however, is generally considered apocryphal, and no doubt belongs to a
period prior to that of the Christian era. The traveller had the panels
of the base of the bookcase ornamented with figures, painted in the
style of the Herculaneum fresco figures, by David Allan of Edinburgh, an
eminent artist of that time.
Bruce was a keen sportsman, and used to
go in the season to a place thirty miles off in the Highlands, on Loch
Lubnaig, called Ard Whillary, the shooting and fishing belonging to
which he rented. In an enclosure of a few acres at Kinnaird, he had some
fallow deer, and would show his skill as a marksman, by bringing down a
fat buck with his rifle, when he intended to give a venison feast. He
had a pair of swans to ornament his pond, and the neighbours said he was
wont to pass off his geese for swans too.
At Kinnaird, we are on the threshold of a
vast coal seam. And connected with pit No. 10 is an old engine which was
erected in 1786, by Symington, for Bruce, the traveller. Although now
groaning sadly under the pressure of years, the huge machine, as a
pumper, has still few equals in Scotland. Previous to 1775, all the
hewers and coal-bearers connected with our colleries, were held in
bondage as serfs, and were actually transferable with the pits to which
they were attached. Nor did the Emancipatory Act of the year mentioned
do more than set them nominally free. On account of the vagueness of
certain of its conditions, it failed virtually to emancipate the class
for which it had been passed; and not until 1799 were the colliers
completely relieved from their degrading servitude. Their slavery, no
doubt, grew insensibly with the demands of commerce and manufactures in
the seventeenth century. It was necessary, because no one would do the
drudgery of the mine to the satisfaction of the mine-owner, in the
amount of work and its price, unless under compulsion. And hence it was
something far worse than any feudal serfdom – just as the commercial
slavery of later times in America, in the plantation gangs, was
something far more cruel and terrible than the domestic slavery
practiced in the households of the early settlers. But the pitmen of
those days groaned under the yoke of various other barbarisms –
certain of which, however, were altogether self-imposed. The time is not
yet so far gone when the wives and daughters of our miners also wrought
under-ground; and well may every human feeling recoil at the bare
mention of such "vulgar matrimonial crimes." But these women,
in their sphere of social ostracism, knew nothing better. They simply
regarded the pit as the only means by which they could earn an honest
livelihood. Indeed, it was considered a most imprudent step for a young
collier to marry a lass who could not wear the male-jacket and
"huggers," and be below with him early and late to assist in
the conveyance of the loaded hutch from the workings to the bottom of
the shaft.
Close at hand, there is the site of Great
Hall at Scaithmuir – the house in which Sir Reginald Moore for some
time resided; and who, moreover, fell into possession of said lands by
his marriage with a daughter of Graham of Abercorn. A short distance
east of Anton’s Hill, lies Mount Jerrat, with trees covering the
ground upon which once stood a little chapel, that gave its name to the
neighbouring burn whose waters, a stone-cast to the south, are collected
into two small reservoirs – the one for the driving of a corn-mill,
and the other for the grinding of wood-char used at Carron. The Nailor
Row, a brick village, is so named from having been in former days a nail
manufactory, under the management of the Caddells. The Bothkennar lands
were purchased in 1363 by Sir William Moore, son of Sir Reginald.
Strangely enough, Timothy Pont spells the place Both-kettard. Bo is
generally thought to be a corruption of the Celtic mo, or maogh, a
plain. Thus Bothkennar, or Mo-Kennar, will signify, "plain of the
western headland." During the many centuries that Roman Catholicism
was the religion of Scotland, the district belonged to the celebrated
abbey of Cambuskenneth; and out of the parish the crown received a
yearly feu-duty of some twenty-six chalders of grain; while six chalders
were likewise handed over to the abbacy above-mentioned. In 1587,
William Couper, bishop of Galloway, and author of some sermons and
theological tracts, was ordained minister here; and remained in that
capacity until 1595.
The present church is a somewhat antique
and barn-looking house. It is, however, the oldest kirk in the district;
and, with all its architectural simplicity, was erected at no small cost
and trouble. From the sandy and brittle nature of the soil, an eminent
metropolitan architect had to be engaged ere the foundation of the
building could be laid. The site, together with that of the heartlessly
neglected burial-ground, was granted by the Dundas family of Carronhall.
William Nimmo, author of the first edition of this history, was minister
of Bothkennar when he wrote the work; and he had formerly been assistant
to the Rev. Mr. Gibson of St. Ninians. The accomplished scholar and
antiquary died in 1780. A nunnery once stood on the present glebe, and
several stones of the celestial asylum are yet to be seen. It is also
worthy of note that Bothkennar was the last parish in the shire served
by an Episcopalian minister. The locality at present is famed for its
fruit.
Between this track and the neighbouring
firth Letham Moss intervenes – leth-amh, literally
"half-ocean," the division of what is subject to be overflown
by the sea. In 1764 the wide peat waste was suddenly floated from its
original bed a considerable distance northwards; and so violent was the
action of the water welling forth from its million cavities that the
wreck covered fully an acre of soil.
"Ay! this is freedom
– those pure skies
Were never stained with village smoke;
The fragrant wind that through them flies
Is breathed from wastes by plough unbroke."
The moss view is extremely barren;
something sui generis. As far as the eye, from some points, can see in a
easterly direction, not a tree, bush, or patch of green takes pity on
the bleak expanse to break its dull and dead monotony. Timber, however,
rich and rare, lies in great abundance within and underneath the moss.
Some few years ago, while a number of workmen were trenching in an
adjoining field, they came upon a black oak of extraordinary dimensions
embedded in the clay. Its circumference, exclusive of bark, was 9 feet 6
inches; and, according to ordinary calculation, the tree must have taken
five or six centuries to reach that gigantic growth. When the timer was
cut up, it was found in body healthy and solid. The oaks thus got year
after year in the track of the old Caledonian forest invariably lie with
their tops to the north-east. Beds of sea-shells, several inches deep,
are also met with in many parts of the surrounding district; hence the
very reasonable supposition that the waters of the Forth at one period
rose as high as the lands of Kinnaird, though they are now about three
miles distant.
In Airth village, which may be said to
skirt the shore of the firth, there is little to interest. Thomas Lyle,
the author of "Kelvin Grove," who died in Glasgow in 1859, was
for some years surgeon here. The public "cross" was erected by
the Elphinstones. On the south the pillar displays the Bruce arms, with
a lion for the crest; on the north are those of the house of Elphinstone,
with the motto, "Do well, and let them say," and the further
inscription, "C.E. 1697." Charles Elphinstone, it may be
remembered, was killed in a duel near Torwood by Captain William Bruce
of Auchenbowie. But, what of the purpose of such a cross? For one thing,
it can scarcely be regarded as any special landmark, there being no
boundary requirement. Neither can it have been erected, so far as
business went, as a dumb monitor for fair dealing in the market-place.
Yet, in the past, stone crosses were built for a variety of uses. Among
other things, they were held as peculiarly efficacious in the cure of
disease that had even set at defiance the most popular of natural
remedies. And we also find King Kenethus II. of Scotland decreeing that
"all sepulturis sall be holdin in reverence and awe; crose set on
thame, that no man sould stramp (tread) thereupon."
The trade of Airth, prior to the year
1745, was considerable; but thereafter gradually declined owing to the
burning of a number of vessels at that period. The rebels having seized
a small ship at a narrow part of the Fallin, by means of it transported
a number of brass cannon to the harbours of Airth and Dunmore, near each
of which they erected batteries and placed their "guns." Upon
the king’s vessels arriving from Leith to dislodge them, a reciprocal
firing began, when the commanders of the former fleet, finding their
efforts ineffectual, sailed down with the tide, and gave orders to burn
all the vessels lying on the river-side, to prevent them falling into
the hands of the rebels, who might have used them as transports, and
harassed the people. The loss of these vessels was severely felt by the
inhabitants of Airth, and their trade ultimately passed to Carronshore
and Grangemouth. The population of the parish in 1811 was 1,727; it is
now only 1,395, of which 520 are in the village.
Dunmore is enshrouded in deep
plantations. The ancestral mansion, however, is totally without
ornament. East and north is a terrace garden, rich in the Cedrus deodora,
Portugal-laurel, etc. Here, too, the pampas grass may be seen, with its
feathery tufts and spear-like branches. Several exquisite panoramic
views are to be got from this point. Alloa tower, where the old Earl of
Mar resided, is within range, together with Clackmannan tower and
Stirling castle.
The garden entrance is under a pine-apple
of freestone. It is a masterly work, octagonal in shape at the base, and
takes the form of a dome for the apple. The interior resembles the
cavity of a bell. Nothing could be more artistic, in its way, than this
clever piece of masonry – a most complete and creditable counterfeit
of the pine fruit, with its crisp, projecting leaves.
The family chapel, elegant within and
without, is approached by a leafy-roofed avenue. Delightful is the walk
through this cathedral of nature. A plate within the little sanctuary
bears the following inscription: - "To the glory of God, and in
memory of her husband, Alexander Edward, 6th Earl of Dunmore,
this church was dedicated by Catherine, Countess of Dunmore, in the year
of our Lord, 1850." The windows, for the most part, are filled with
Scriptural emblems; while the Decalogue occupies the wall of the
chancel. Along the nave are various Biblical selections. One of the most
touching of the artistic works is a memorial of marble to Elizabeth
Wadsworth, wife of Charles Augustus Murray, who died at Cairo, 8th
December, 1851. The death-angel points the mother heavenward; but she,
though compliant in look, yet clings to the bairn to be left for a time
behind. A tower stands close by the chapel, which formed part of the old
Elphinstone castle. The under portion of this building is the mausoleum
of the Earls of Dunmore. Monuments have also been erected here to the
two latest earls deceased. The one to the memory of Alexander Edward is
an obelisk of Aberdeen granite, and weighs upwards of twelve tons.
But what of the "woods of
Dunmore," so famous in song? In summer, the foliage of the trees
everywhere forms a "bosky umbrage," grandly variegated. As
seen from the neighbouring straths, the woods display a spread of hues
changeful as the colours of harlequin’s coat. April, too, so shortly
past, is a merry month with the crows, Dunmore being one of the most
extensive seats of incubation. In this "sweet-coloured
evening," the birds, perched in thousands across the dense mass of
trees, are more than usually loquacious. But powder and shot will soon
silence their clamour. And the rooks have always been a persecuted
tribe. The service rendered by the destruction of noxious grubs is never
felt proper compensation for the havoc played in the potato field. James
I., some three hundred years ago, passed a law relative to "ruicks,"
which was in effect: - "That ruicks be not suffered to big in
trees; and where it be tainted (legally proven) that they big, and the
birds flown, and the nest found at Beltain (1st May, old
style), that the trees be forfaulted to the king, with five shillings
unlaw."
Not an oak, but a fir, is monarch here.
The tree is said to contain upwards of 250 cubic feet of timber, and, as
may readily be imagined, stands a noble specimen of the Scotch pine. The
largest tree in Scotland, however, is a fine old oak, contiguous to
Tullibody house, the property of Lord Abercromby. In that tree there are
about 600 cubic feet of measurable timber. In the Dunmore forest, marked
with many a winding path, the naturalist will find much to interest him.
The wood-reed, meadow-grass, (Poa sylvatica,) grows luxuriantly. We saw
a plant of the same, 7 feet in height; and a stalk of the sea-lime grass
(Elymus arenarius,) which measured 4 feet 10 inches. Striking deeply
into the woods, we came upon a considerable area of the Aconitum
napellus; and also discovered a fern, by no means attractive, compared
with its magnificent and stately neighbours, but which the practised eye
of a botanist could not pass over amid the vulgar throng. The Lastrea
cristata is a fern so rare, that Hooker has not dared to give a habitat
for it in Scotland; while Hennedy indicates only one. This plant
delights to inhabit a boggy heath, and such was the soil on which we now
stood. We must confess to a high admiration – a love that we have
never found misdirected – for those lovely and ever-interesting
occupants of the wayside and woodland. In their graceful curves, in the
delicate tracery of their fronds, in the beautiful effects of colour,
and of light and shade, which they present, none of the lowlier growing
plants come near them.
Nor can the old quarry be overlooked, out
of which the stone of the present mansion was taken. It is, however,
quite unlike its natural self – at bottom a miniature valley of
shrubbery, carpeted with radiant turf; while the rocky slopes are
ivy-fringed, and starred with many constellations of the flowering year.
Here, also, is a rustic summer house, thatched and walled with heather.
Encircling it, are various specimens of the Wellingtonia gigantean. And
now appear the hermit’s cave, and elfin boulder. The latter curiosity,
as the legend goes, was cast by a witch from the Ochils upon a trio of
banditti, who were thereby crushed unmercifully into the nether world.
The very finger-marks of "Hecate," the beldam, were shown us.
The boulder, in plain language, is a conglomerate of sand and channel,
and has its position, no doubt, from glacial action. On this point,
indeed, the evidences of the crag and tale are quite conclusive. In an
earlier geological period, a great sea swept boldly from the north-west,
joining the Atlantic with the German ocean; and the gigantic icebergs
which were transported by marine currents to the south-east, must
naturally have deposited many of the monster boulders everywhere found
across the neck of land under consideration.
Between this and Dunmore moss there are
acres of beautiful ferns, although the varieties are not numerous. The
Aspidium filix-mas occupies fully seven-eighths of the wood; and the
variety Asplenium filix-foemina is also met with occasionally. The moss
lies upon carse-clay, and is from ten to fourteen feet in thickness. It
is of large extent, and was lately covered with stunted heather; but a
great fire swept over its surface some years ago, leaving the mossy
track a veritable black wilderness. At the present time, this wide and
bleak region exhibits a striking contrast to its surroundings. On every
side for miles there are pleasant fields of grass or cereals in a
thriving condition, with plantations in various stages of growth and
beauty. Across the dark expanse are numerous piles of peat which have
been cast and stocked by the local farmers for boiler fires, and sale in
the out-lying villages. And of the fuels obtained from the earth’s
crust, the most obvious and accessible is peat. It is strictly a
vegetable accumulation – mosses, rushes, grasses, heaths, and other
marsh plants contributing to its growth, the rate of which is very
difficult to approximate. Throughout the country, however, many
peat-bogs show an accumulation of from three to five feet since the time
of the Roman invasion, now nearly eighteen hundred years ago. |