ROTHIEMURCHUS is essentially a sporting
estate. More than three-fourths of its lands have no agricultural or
pastoral value, and are fit for no other purpose than a deer forest. The
vast upland regions and luxuriant fir-woods would hardly yield any
subsistence for sheep or cattle, and the climate is too bleak and cold
for them. But they are admirably adapted for the antlered denizens of
the forest, which frequent in large herds the mountain corries, where
the patches of grass have a peculiarly fattening quality and the deer
thrive well. The deer forest of Rothiemurchus has always occupied a high
place in the estimation of sportsmen, and commands a large rental. It
has often been held season after season by the same tenant, and the
result has been uniformly satisfactory. For the accommodation of the
deer-shooters, a very elegant and commodious lodge, Drumintoul, has been
built on the other side of the Druie, not far from Loch Pityoulish, from
whence access is obtained to the high grounds by a capital driving-road
through the woods. Glen Eunach forms the principal part of the deer
forest, and from this circumstance its magnificent scenery is not so
well known as it ought to be. It is naturally the object of the
proprietor and tenants to keep the glen secluded to avoid the scaring of
the deer. But before the stalking season commences, parties are allowed
to visit the place with certain necessary precautions. To the vast
majority of visitors to the district, however, it must obviously be a
sealed spot.
Entering by a gate at
Loch-an-Eilan, over which the Scottish Rights of Way Society has fixed a
board indicating that this is the commencement of the public road to
Braemar by the Lang Pass, you skirt the northern shore of the loch,
which you soon leave behind, and proceed through old fir-forests around
the base of the bare mountain mass of Creag Dubh, one of the outer spurs
of~ the great Cairngorm range. This hill is well worth ascending for the
sake of the splendid view which the top commands of the whole region. A
pathway leads to the summit, the fir-trees becoming more dwarfed and
stunted the higher up you climb. Near the top of the first height there
is a gully where the deer often resort, and the ground is torn up by
their combats during the rutting season. In this place I have several
times found a curious moss which grows only on the droppings of deer, a
species of Splachnum, which has a very fine appearance with its
large red capsules and bright green foliage. Developing only on animal
substances, it seems to reverse the great rule that plants precede
animals in the scheme of creation. On the highest ridge the ground is
remarkably bare and storm-scalped. The winds rush over it with almost
irresistible fury, even on a comparatively calm day, and sweep
everything before them. The vegetation that clothes this bleak altitude
is Polar in its character, rising only an inch or two above the soil, or
creeping along and holding firmly by its roots. Arctic willows and
azaleas form the only patches of verdure among the large heaps of white
granite debris; and over the tangled masses of dark mosses and lichens
that cling closely together for mutual help against the common foe, a
curious stringy lichen of a straw colour, the Alectoria sarmentosa, unknown
except in such Polar situations, forms tortuous knots. A bit of ground
with its characteristic plants from this ridge would remind one of a
spot in Greenland or Spitzbergen.
The Creag Dubh, though
looking like an independent summit over Loch-an-Eilan, whose skyline it
forms, is in reality the elevated foot of the Sgòran Dubh, a lofty hill
opposite Braeriach, and only two or three hundred feet lower in height.
The easiest way to ascend the Sgòran Dubh is over the long-extended
ridge at the back of Creag Dubh, rising higher and higher by gentle
elevations to the sharp conical summit. On the sky-line, not far behind
the ridge of Creag Dubh, is a huge boulder left by glacial forces on
this exposed point called the "Argyll Stone." After the
disastrous battle at Aberdeen, Montrose fled across the country to the
Spey, intending to make use of the ferry-boats on the river to pass over
to the other side. But finding them removed and an armed force waiting
to oppose his passage, he marched his army back through the forest of
Abernethy, where he remained for several days, and then proceeded
through the forest of Rothiemurchijs over the hills down into Badenoch.
Argyll followed fast upon his heels and caught sight of the vanishing
host at this point. Learning that many of the natives had joined the
standard of Montrose, Argyll took vengeance upon the whole district,
which he laid waste with fire and sword. Not far from the Argyll Stone
there is another large boulder called Clach Mhic Allan, or the Duke of
Atholl’s Stone. The Duke was taking refuge behind it, when he was set
upon and killed near the summit of the ridge.
At another index board of
the Scottish Rights of Way Society in the heart of the forest two ways
meet and cross each other. The one to the left leads through the Lang to
Braemar, the other to the right is the path to Glen Eunach. Near the
point of divergence there is a small shallow lake, which in hot summers
is often dry. For about a mile and a half the road proceeds in a
straight line on a uniform level through the well-grown plantation which
has superseded the old aboriginal forest of giant trees. In this wood I
have several times seen and heard the crested fit— a bird which is now
almost wholly confined to the Rothiemurchus forest and is becoming more
rare, though once it was abundant wherever the ancient Caledonian forest
extended. By and by you come to the pass of the glen, where the
precipitous banks on either side contract, and the stream, deep down
below, forces its way with considerable difficulty, roaring and foaming,
over the great boulders that fill its bed. Directly opposite on your
left hand is the bare, elegantly-shaped cone of Cam Eilrig, which rises
to an imposing altitude from this point. It is the "sanctuary"
of Rothiemurchus, where, in former times, the deer escaping into it were
not allowed to be shot. This humane practice, however, no longer
obtains. This hill, like a grand, solemn sphinx, is set to guard the
portals of a mountain region of mystery and romance. The murmurs of the
stream in its bed are all-pervading. You hear them a good way off—filling
all the air like the voices of a multitude. The steep rocks on either
side, according to the folk-lore of the place, are inhabited by two
different "brownies," perpetually quarrelling and shouting at
one another. Wild shrieks and mocking laughter are heard, especially
when the belated pedestrian approaches the pass at twilight, and
recalls, with fear and trembling, its uncanny reputation. No mortal was
ever the friend of the one "brownie" without deeply offending
the other, who manifested his anger in very offensive ways. The sound of
many waters at the pass accounted for a good deal of this supernatural
superstition. Beyond the pass the last solitary firs of the forest
contend with the elements, and are twisted and dwarfed by the severity
of the struggle; but you hardly notice them, for they are extinguished
by the universal magnitude of the inorganic masses and forces around.
From this point the pass opens up a wide treeless waste of utter
solitude. Terraces of moraine matter, broken and gleaming white in the
sunshine, indicating the different levels at which the stream formerly
ran, bank up its course, and little rills coursing down the mountains
from both sides fall into it to swell its volume. This region has never
been animated by human life. It is above the zone of cultivation. No
ruins of hamlets, with nettles growing round the cold hearth-stones,
cluster on the spots where the turf is softest and greenest among the
heather, to testify of forcible evictions and heart-broken farewells,
and of the new homes of exiles far away across a world of seas. The
peace here is not the peace of death, to which man’s works return, but
the peace of the primitive, untamed wilderness. From time immemorial the
region has been dedicated to the noble pastime dear to the old kings and
chieftains of Scotland. Large herds of red deer frequent the corries;
but you may wander for days over the boundless waste without seeing a
single antler, when all at once you may behold on the ridge over your
head a score of deer standing motionless, gazing at you with their horns
piercing the skyline like skeleton boughs. It is a grand sight, but it
is only momentary, for, scenting danger, they disappear over the
shoulder of the mountain, noiselessly, like a dream, into the safe
shadows of another glen.
On the right-hand side,
shortly after the pass is traversed, a solitary pine may be seen on the
high ground isolated at a considerable distance from the last straggler,
which marks the spot where the old inhabitants of Rothiemurchus used to
take leave of their friends when they went to the summer shielings. This
was considered an important occasion, and several old-world ceremonies
were performed in connection with it. A large company helped to lead the
cattle and to carry the dairy utensils and household bedding of the
women who were to stay behind and occupy the rudely constructed bothies,
where they carried on the manufacture of butter and cheese for winter
consumption. After seeing to their comfortable settlement in the huts,
usually constructed in some green sheltered place beside a mountain
rill, the friends would depart to their own farms down in the low
grounds, and at the end of three or four months, the women of the
shielings would return home laden with the products of their summer
industry. Glen Eunach, as I have said, was never inhabited. It had no
agricultural capabilities, but here and there beside the streams there
were green spots that grew very nourishing grasses, which enabled the
cows to give large quantities of milk, and the shielings of Glen Eunach
in ancient times were justly celebrated. On the left-hand side of the
stream there is a large extent of ground principally covered by
moraines, which is hid from the visitor along the road by the elevated
terraces forming the banks of the stream. Among these moraines is a
small lake, marked on the Ordnance map by the curious name of "Loch
Mhic Ghille-Chaoile," which means the loch of the lean man’s
son. It obtained this curious name from the circumstance that a
native of Rothiemurchus was killed beside it long ago, in connection
with the raiding of the cattle in the summer shielings of Glen Eunach
one Sunday morning by the Lochaber reivers. The herdsman in charge of
the cattle, as the Rev. Mr M’Dougall graphically tells us, rushed to
the church of Rothiemurchus, where the people were met for worship, and
informed them of the robbery. Mac Ghille-Chaoile, who was the fleetest
of foot, because of his hereditary leanness, outstripped his companions
in the pursuit, and came up alone with the marauders at the little loch
in Glen Eunach, where he found the cattle gathered together in one spot
ready to be removed. Here a fierce altercation took place, in
consequence of which Mac Ghille-Chaoile was slain. Taking up his body
and hiding it in a hollow near at hand, called "Coire Bo
Craig," the raiders decamped, so that when the rest of the pursuers
arrived they saw no trace either of their companion or the reivers. Some
five or six weeks later, a Lochaber woman visiting Rothiemurchus told
the people of the manner of Mac Ghille-Chaoile’s death, and of the
spot where his body was concealed, as she had been told by the reivers,
whereupon his friends brought down his remains and laid them devoutly in
the churchyard. The loch after this became associated with his name, and
the discovery in recent years of an old rusty dirk beside the loch, with
which probably the ruthless murder was committed, gave confirmation to
the story.
Crossing the stream by a
wooden bridge you come to the first bothy, built of timber, for the use
of deer—stalkers. Here it is customary to leave the road and climb
Braeriach, over heath and peat bogs, by a foot-track by the side of a
tributary burn that comes down from the heights. From this point you do
not see the full pro-. portions of the mountain; you see only a part of
its long-extended sides rising tier above tier to the sky. You must go
farther away in order to take in the whole view. Perhaps the best point
of observation is the railway station at Aviemore, where you see the
huge mountain rising up from the extensive fir-forest of Rothiemurchus
in a long, swelling, massive slope, with immense rounded shoulders,
catching alternate sunshine and shade from the passing clouds, and
exhibiting, even under sudden gleams of light, a peculiarly grey, barren
aspect. About a thousand feet from the summit the uniformity of the
slope is broken up by two great corries, divided from each other by a
narrow neck or ridge connecting the shoulders of the mountain with the
top. One of them is occupied by a bright green transparent tarn, perhaps
the highest lakelet in Britain, into which a streamlet trickles down the
face of the cliff in a series of waterfalls, a mere slender thread in
dry weather, but presenting a magnificent sheet of unbroken foam when
swollen by a storm. The corries look at a distance, when filled with the
afternoon shadows, like the hollow eye-sockets of a gigantic skull. In
the rifts and shady recesses patches of snow linger almost throughout
the whole year, and appear dazzlingly white by contrast with the dark
rocks around.
The loneliness of the
wooden bothy is oppressive. I have rested in it both in storm and in
calm. Even on the brightest summer day it is desolate in the extreme;
and the rivulet that murmurs past has a forlorn sound, as if it missed
the cheerfulness of human habitations. This one bothy emphasises the
solitude, as a single tree does in a treeless wilderness. It reminds you
of social instincts and companionships for which there is no
gratification in this glen. I remember spending an hour or two in it
along with the Master of Balliol and Professor Jones, having been
compelled to take refuge from a wild storm which shrouded all the
mountains in a dense, leaden mist, and soughed in fierce gusts among the
corries, raising the voice of the stream that flowed behind to a loud
upbraiding. A cheerful fire of wood dispelled the gloom and made us warm
and cosy in one recess there was a rude bed, with a shelf and candles
and tea-cups, proving that the hut was often occupied at night. You can
imagine the eeriness of the solitary tenant, especially if he had a
superstitious mind filled with the ghost stories of the district. The
very coldness of the night would give him a sensation of the
supernatural, such as might precede the advent of a spectre, and the
wailing of the winds would seem like the voices of the dead. A feeling
of expectancy would take possession of him as if some mysterious being
were coming out of the vast darkness to hold commune with him. The very
room itself would be filled with some unknown presence, some one of the
powers of darkness. It is a wonder that anyone can be found hardy enough
to pass through such an experience. One must be matter-of-fact and
unimaginative indeed to do so. But a summer day in such a spot is a
delicious sensation, when the whole glen is filled with a subdued and
softened light, and the mountain sides seem as if a blue smoke were
rising over them like a veil, giving them a spectral charm, and the
ripple of the streams is musical, and the purple heather just beginning
to bloom and to tint the bogs has a faint odour, a "caress of
scent," the very soul of perfume.
BEYOND the first bothy
the scenery becomes grander and lonelier. The glen contracts, the slopes
of Braeriach on the one side and those of the Sgòran Dubh on the other
become steeper and loftier. Nature is more awe-inspiring, and seeks to
impress us more and more the nearer we approach to her heart. In a short
time the great precipices of the Sgôran form peaks and spires of
indescribable grandeur. The face of the perpendicular cliffs, more than
two thousand feet in height, is broken up into deep rifts, with long
trailing heaps of debris at the foot, and great outstanding buttresses
of rock, as if these mighty masses required additional support; and the
colour of the granite is a rich dark blue, like the bloom on a plum. The
rocks have caught this hue from the sky during untold ages of exposure
to sun and storm. The effect of these gigantic rocks with wreaths of
mist and cloud writhing up their sides, and revealing more and more of
their great height and steepness, cannot be described in words. The
stream at the foot of these precipices flows darkly and sluggishly over
a wide peaty hollow amid the stumps and tortuous roots of old
pine-trees, testifying that this place was once densely wooded with the
primeval forest. How these trees could exist then, and why they cannot
flourish now, is a problem not easy to solve. It is not that the climate
or any of the conditions requisite to the growth of the pine-tree have
changed. The probable reason is not the height of the spot, or the
bleakness of the climate, but the exposure of the individual trees, when
planted, to the prevailing storms. When once a gap was made in the
serried ranks of the pines as they grew in the original wood, they
yielded one by one to the force of the tempest; and the reason why we
cannot now make our planted firs to grow in such a situation, where we
see thousands of their fallen progenitors cumbering the ground with
their bleached remains, is that we cannot imitate the slow, gradual
method of Nature in giving them the shelter which, through long
centuries of mutual crowding together, they afforded to each other.
Farther on the picture is
complete when the first glimpse of Loch Eunach is seen at the next bothy,
which is built of stone, and is meant for longer habitation. There a
waterfall tumbles down from a huge bastion of Braeriach, the sound of
which is lost in the immeasurable silence; while beyond it the mountain
ascends out of sight, plateau above plateau. Loch Eunach reposes in the
hollow between the great cliffs of Sgòran Dubh and the gigantic sides
of Braeriach, whose gloomy shadows are cast down upon its waters. From
its situation it is exposed to all the winds of heaven, which often come
in immense sweeps, lifting the water in blinding spindrift far over the
shores. A universal darkness sometimes gathers over it on the brightest
day without a warning, in a moment, and torrents of slanting rain
descend that sting your face and wet you through and through. But the
clouds and the mist vanish as rapidly as they appear, and an azure world
is revealed in the clear depths below, unflecked and dazzling, and the
clouds, even when they again form, are suspended overhead in soft,
ethereal masses in reposeful majesty and calm, and the waters are broken
everywhere by multitudinous swift-flowing ripples, that seem like
shuttles working backwards and forwards, weaving the sheen of the waves
that glance in the sun like watered silk. The lower end of the loch is
dammed by huge banks of granite sand of the whitest hue, formed by the
disintegration of the rocks around by the ever-restless waters; and here
a walk along the shore reveals tufts of Alpine vegetation, Oxyria and
Alpine Lady's Mantle and rare Hieracia, such as delight
the botanist’s eye and heart. Loch Eunach, like many of our Alpine
lochs, abounds with delicate char, which make excellent eating.
The head of the glen,
beyond the loch, is shut in by a lofty and rugged amphitheatre of cliffs
called Corrour, which pass across between Braeriach and Sgòran Dubh,
and down whose dark faces are long streaks and patches of light green,
marking water-courses. Between the loch and these cliffs there is a
large tract of level land, of wonderful smoothness and verdure, which is
a favourite haunt of the deer. Here they may often be found in the
earlier and later seasons of the year, cropping the rich grass in
security, while in summer they seek the higher elevations for the sake
of the cooler air. This spot used to be included in the shielings of
Rothiemurchus. One summer, about the beginning of the eighteenth
century, Lady Mary, the wife of the famous laird, Patrick Grant,
surnamed Macalpine, accompanied the maidens to the shielings of Corrour,
for change of air; and there, without nurse or doctor, in a mere hut
tenanted by the cattle, was suddenly born her second son John, who got
the name of Corrour from this circumstance. This son had a distinguished
career as an officer in the army, and died abroad after a good deal of
service. This incident has been commemorated by the name of Corrour
being given to a large villa recently built by a relation of the present
laird on the way to Aviemore. In all the district there is not a grander
spot than Corrour. There are very few that can come up to it in all
Scotland. The scenery of the deep conic recalls that of Loch Coruisk
among the Cuchullin Hills in Skye, and Loch Eunach equals, if it does
not surpass, the wonderfully wild view of Loch Avon from the heights of
Ben Macdhui above it. In that weird caldron of the storms, that den
"where," as Wordsworth boldly says, "the earthquake might
hide her cubs," the imagination could revel in the most dreadful
shapes of ancient superstition. We do not wonder that before the
Highland fancy, in such lonely places, visions of water-bulls and
ghostly water-kelpies should shape themselves out of the gathering
mists.
To be alone on the shores
of such a loch during a tempest would be the height of sublimity. All
Ossian’s terrors would be seen in the writhing mists and foaming
waters and frowning rocks appearing and disappearing through the clouds,
and the howling of the winds would seem like the spirits of the lost.
Even on the brightest summer day, when sitting on the pure white granite
sands on the margin of the loch, one feels as if sitting "on the
shore of old romance," and has an eerie sensation as if the veil
that separated the seen from the unseen were thinner in this place than
anywhere else, and might be lifted up at any moment and some uncanny
shape appear.
Braeriach is in the
Rothiemurchus forest, which extends to the Duke of Fife’s forest on
the Braemar side. It is one of the foremost of the great group of
mountains which forms the roof of Scotland, and occupies the most
imposing elevated ground in Britain. The boundary between the counties
of Aberdeen and Inverness runs along the ridge of Braeriach, and is one
of the grandest lines of delimitation in the kingdom. A well-made zigzag
path, constructed by the deer-stalkers for bringing down the produce of
the chase from the mountain, ascends from Loch Eunach, by which it is
comparatively easy to climb to the top. On the way up many fascinating
rills cross one’s path, which flow down a course lined with the
softest and greenest moss, inexpressibly pleasant to the eye in the
desolate wilderness, while here and there cushions of the lovely moss-campion,
starred with its numerous crimson blossoms, form a delightful sward by
their side. You can hardly tear yourself away from the charm of the
little transparent pools and from the sweet gurgling sound they make in
the awestruck silence, and the delicious coldness of the sparkling water
which you are tempted at every step to scoop up with your hand and
drink, infusing new vigour into your parched frame. The granite rock
holds these rills like a crystal goblet, and from its hard sides no
particle is worn away to pollute the purity of the element or tame its
brilliant lustre. The cairn crowning the highest point is only two or
three yards from the brink of a tremendous precipice, which forms part
of a long wall extending for upwards of two miles, perhaps the most
formidable line of precipices to be found in Britain. Cairntoul, which
rises up across the gorge to almost the same height as Braeriach, shapes
the huge granite boulders of its top into a gigantic cairn, and bears in
its highest corrie a beautiful little circular lake; which shows as
green as an emerald in the afternoon light, and gives rise to the white
waters of the Garachory burn. Near the summit of Braeriach, at the
north-east extremity, are five springs, which are perennial, and are
called the "Wells of Dee." The rills from these springs unite
a little lower down the mountain at an elevation of about 4000 feet, and
farther on to the southward join the Garachory. These rills are supposed
to form the principal source of the Dee. At this height you cannot
distinguish the varied tones of the minstrelsy of the united stream as
it breaks into foam among the numerous boulders in its course; but you
hear instead an all-pervading sigh or murmur in the air, like the
distant echo of the shout of a multitude, which has an indescribably
grand effect upon the mind.
The panorama of the whole
Highlands of Scotland, from the long broad summit of Ben Macdhui,
gleaming red in the level afternoon light, surrounded by the wild
grandeur of the crags about Loch Etchachan and Loch Avon, "the
grisly cliffs that guard the infant rills of Highland Dee," to the
highest point of Ben Nevis in the far western distance, scaling the
heavens, and gathering a fringe of dark clouds around its brow, seems to
spread out in one uninterrupted view before you—a tumultuous ocean of
dark mountains, with here and there the solid mass crested with
glistening snow. Gazing on the sublime picture, in which the wild chaos
of Nature has swallowed up all traces of man’s presence, and not a
single human habitation or sign of cultivation is visible in all the
immeasurable horizon, you feel to the full the inspiration of the scene.
So quickened is the pulse, so elevated are the feelings, that one hour
in such a situation is worth a whole month on the tame level of ordinary
life in the city or on the plain. The mind receives a keener edge, and
is quick to perceive the interest that lies not only in the great whole
of the view, but also in the smallest details of it. The mystery of the
mountain is in the eye of the lonely wildflower that strives in a
forlorn way to embellish the brown weather - beaten turf, and every tuft
of grass that waves in the wind, and every little rill that trickles in
the silence, seems to be conscious of the sublimity of the spot.
Problems of the original upheaval by some mighty internal force of the
mass of primary rock which forms the base of the whole group of
mountains occupy and stimulate the mind. The granite detritus, of which
you take up a handful from the ground beside your feet, and let it pass
through your fingers, seems like sand from Nature’s great hourglass,
speaking to you of worlds that have passed away in ages for which you
have no reckoning, of universal decay and death; and you are reminded
that these seemingly everlasting mountains are perishing, slowly when
measured by man’s notions of time, but surely, for, as the poet tells
us, they are only clouds a little more stable and enduring that change
their shapes and flow from form to form, and at last disappear for ever
in the eternal blue. |