OF all the districts overshadowed by the
extensive Cairngorm range the most magnificent, by universal consent, is
Rothiemurchus. It is a region entirely unique. There is nothing like it
elsewhere. If Scotland as a whole is Norway post—dated, this part of
the country is especially Norwegian. Scotland is famous for its artistic
colouring, which Millais compared to a wet Scotch pebble; but here the
colouring is richer and more varied than in any other part of the
country. The purples are like wine and not like slate, the deep
blue-greens are like a peacock’s tail in the sun, the distant glens
hold diaphanous bluish shadows, and a bloom like that of a plum is on
the lofty peaks, which changes at sunset into a velvety chocolate or the
hue of glowing copper in the heart of a furnace. A day here in October
is something to be remembered all one’s life, when the tops of the
mountains all round the horizon are pure white with the early snow, and
their slopes are adorned with the brilliant tints of faded bracken,
golden birch and brown heather, and all the low grounds are filled with
the unchangeable blue-green of the firs. At Rothiemurchus the landscape
picture is most beautifully balanced, framed on both sides by heath-clad
hills, which rise gradually to the lofty uplands of Braeriach and
Cairngorm, with the broad summit of Ben Macdhui rounding up its giant
shoulders behind the great chain itself; all coiffed with radiant cloud,
or turbaned with folded mist, or clearly revealed in the sparkling
light, bearing up with them in their aged arms the burden of earth’s
beauty for the blessing of heaven. All the views exhibit the most
harmonious relations to one another, and each is enhanced by the
loveliness of its neighbour.
Rothiemurchus is a
high-sounding name. It is a striking example of the genius which the
ancient Celtic race had for local nomenclature. It means "the wide
plain of the fir trees," and no name could be more descriptive.
Nothing but the fir tree seems to grow over all the region. It has miles
and miles of dark forest covering all the ground around, and usurping
spots that in other localities would have been cleared for cultivation.
You see almost no trace of man’s industry within the horizon. Whatever
cornfields there may be are entirely lost and hid within the folds of
this uniform clothing of fir-forest All is Nature, primitive, savage,
unredeemed. In the centre of the vast plain rises the elevated upland of
Tullochghru, about a thousand feet above the sea-level, whose farms have
a brighter green, smiling in the sunshine, contrasted with the
surrounding brown desolation. It seems to emerge like an island out of
an ocean of dark-green verdure flowing all around its base, and breaking
in billows far up the precipices of the Cairngorms. The scenery as a
whole is on such a gigantic scale that the individual features are
dwarfed. The huge mountains become elevated braes or plateaus, and miles
of mountainous fir-forest seem to contract into mere patches of
woodland. No one would suppose that the hollow which hides Loch Morlich
in the distance was other than a mere dimple in the forest, and yet it
is more than three miles in circumference, and opens up on the spot a
large area of clear space to the sky. The eye requires to get accustomed
to the vast dimensions of mountain and forest to form a true conception
of the relative proportions of any individual object. Nothing can be
more deceptive than the distances, which are always supposed to be much
shorter than they really are.
The crest of the Grants
of Rothiemurchus is a mailed hand holding a broadsword, with the motto,
"For my Duchus." Duchus is the name which they gave to their
domain. It is a Gaelic word meaning a district which is peculiarly one’s
own. Rothiemurchus was always regarded by its proprietors as standing to
them in a very special relation. Very touching expression has been given
to this sentiment in that popular work, The Memoirs of a Highland
Lady, published some few years ago. The attachment of the authoress,
who was a daughter of Sir John Peter Grant of Rothiemurchus, to her
native place was unbounded. She constantly speaks of her beloved "Duchus";
and when about to accompany her father to India, when he was made a
judge in Bombay, she gives a pathetic picture of her last walk in the
"Duchus" with her youngest sister. Her fortitude gave way when
she heard the gate of her home closing behind her, and she wept
bitterly. "Even now," she says, after long years of absence,
"I seem to hear the clasp of that gate; I shall hear it till I die;
it seemed to end the poetry of my existence." Even the casual
visitor feels this strange spell which the place exercises upon him; and
if one has spent several summers in wandering among its romantic scenes,
the fascination becomes altogether absorbing. Season after season finds
your feet drawn towards this charming region; and no other spot can
replace it, no other scenery surpass it in its power over the
imagination and the heart. There is little reference made in The
Memoirs of a Highland Lady to the natural characteristics of
Rothiemurchus. The book does not describe the grand mountain scenery, or
give any account of the deer-stalking in the forest, or of the climbing
of the great peaks of the Cairngorm range. It is occupied entirely with
the mode of life and the social relations of this remote region at the
beginning of last century. But you feel conscious all the time of the
presence of the mountains. You feel that the grand scenery is not the
mere background of human action, but mingles with it in the most
intimate manner; and all this makes the reading of the book, so full of
artless simplicity and natural piquancy and humour, peculiarly
delightful.
The railway station for
Rothiemurchus is Aviemore, which has entirely changed its aspect in
recent years. In the old coaching days it had hardly a single building
except the inn, where the horses were baited and passengers on the way
to Inverness halted to refresh themselves. This quaint hostelry, looking
like an ancient Scottish peel, is still standing but is no longer used
as an inn. Its upper garden wall marked the height to which the Spey
rose during the celebrated Moray floods, which Sir Thomas Dick Lauder so
graphically described, when living sheep were brought across the river
and left in the trees of the garden by the overwhelming waters. The
whole country was inundated and became one great lake, and the face of
the hill behind was seamed with white roaring waterfalls, and a dense
mist filled all the air. Aviemore is now a busy junction where
innumerable trains in the summer months pass north and south, and
passengers from all parts of the world meet each other on the platforms.
A row of new villas is built along the line and a modern hotel, with a
noble background of hills and an incomparable view in front of the
Cairngorm range where all the great peaks are seen grouped together in
the most effective manner, occupies the rising ground behind.
The lands of
Rothiemurchus are bounded on the west by the Spey that flows past
Aviemore, at the foot of Craigellachie. This storied rock is not
included in the possessions of this branch of the family, although it
formed the slogan or war-cry of the whole clan, "Stand fast,
Craigellachie." It comes out boldly from the general line of hills,
and forms a most conspicuous feature in the landscape. It is composed of
mica-slate broken into ledges and rocky slopes, and in some places is
quite precipitous. It is covered mostly with purple heather,
interspersed with weeping birches and bushes of willow. The bare spaces
are clothed with bracken, whose golden tints in autumn are
indescribable; and even the hard exposed rock is weathered and frescoed
with yellow and hoary lichens. It is a rich feast of colour to the eye
at all seasons of the year, and exhibits a poetry of fleeting hues
fairer than an equal portion of sky, which it blots out, would show. By
a poetic instinct it was chosen as the symbol of the clan, and its
enduring steadfast character shadowed forth their unchanging
faithfulness amid all the strains of life. The fame of this rock in the
landscapes of their native region has always powerfully impressed the
imagination of the warlike people. It has been the scene of many a
gathering of the clan in times of war and foray; and from this central
spot the fiery cross used often to be sent round to summon the clansmen
together. Ruskin, during his visit to this region, greatly admired the
picturesqueness of Craigellachie; and he speaks thus of its
associations: "You may think long over the words ‘Stand fast,
Craigellachie,’ without exhausting the deep wells of feeling and
thought contained in them—the love of the native land, and the
assurance of faithfulness to it. You could not but have felt it, if you
passed beneath it at the time when so many of England’s dearest
children were being defended by the strength of heart of men born at its
foot, how often among the delicate Indian palaces, whose marble was
pallid with horror, and whose vermilion was darkened with blood, the
remembrance of its rough grey rocks and purple heather must have risen
before the sight of the Highland soldiers— how often the hailing of
the shot and the shrieking of the battle would pass away from their
hearing, and leave only the whisper of the old pine branches, ‘Stand
fast, Craigellachie.’"
THE Spey, as it forms the
western boundary of Rothiemurchus, has a somewhat diversified course,
being mostly swift and shallow, with extensive margins of white pebbles
in its bed; but where the high road from Aviemore crosses it by a modern
iron bridge, it expands into a deep and wide pool as black as Erebus, as
if it concentrated in itself all the peaty waters of its source in the
bogs of Drumochter, and gives one an impressive idea of the might of the
river. The Spey is not a classic stream. No poet has sung its praises,
but the murmur of its tide has found articulate expression in the
beautiful strathspeys which echo the swiftness of its pace and the swirl
of its waters. It has been associated as no other British river has been
with our national dance music. Its tributaries from Rothiemurchus, each
"a mountain power," swell its volume and add to the beauty of
the scenes through which they flow. They traverse the whole extent of
the region from east to west, from the bare, bleak heights of Braeriach
and Cairngorm to the rich green meadows which the Spey has made for
itself in the low grounds. The vast pine-forests would be oppressive
without those voices of Nature that inform the solitudes, and destitute
of those silvery pools which mirror the alders and birches. The Luineag
issues from Loch Morlich, and exposes for most of its course its
sparkling wavelets to the open sky, and the Bennie, uniting the stream
that comes from the Lang Pass and the river which carries off the
surplus waters of Loch Eunach, hides itself in the depths of the woods,
whose green folds hush the soliloquies which it holds with itself. They
form together at Coylum Bridge—which means the meeting of the waters,
or literally the twofold leap—the Druie, a capricious river that often
shifts its channel and converts much fertile land into a wilderness of
sand and gravel. With its vagaries have been connected the fortunes of
the House of Rothiemurchus, which were to be prosperous so long as the
course of the river continued the same, but disastrous should it change
its bed and work out a new channel for itself. Twice, at least, this
change has happened, when the property passed from the Shaws to the
Grants, and during the great Moray floods which devastated the whole
district.
The subject streams of
Rothiemurchus, which are the size of rivers and speak powerfully of the
great range of mountains in which they rise, gather to their generous
heart the whispered wanderings of a hundred rills. They bring down the
grand music of the mountains, the roar of the tempest, and the sigh of
the wind and the swoop of the mist in the wild corries, and the soft
murmur of the upland brook. In the rhythm of their song may be detected
all the mystic tones in which the mountains converse with one another.
The Luineag is the stillest water, for its bed is least rugged ; but the
Bennie is full of large granite boulders over which it rushes with a
swift, clear current, whose harshness is made musical by the listening
air. It is the sound of the Bennie alone that is heard, when the night
deepens the oppressive stillness and lonesomeness by hushing all other
noises, and the great mountain range looms on the horizon beneath the
stars—a gigantic silhouette, a geological dream, a vision of the
primeval ages, whose shade inundates all the landscape, and turns all
the amphitheatre of valleys black as ebony.
Nowhere are there more
magnificent fir-forests than those of Rothiemurchus. These forests,
about sixteen square miles in extent, are the relics of the aboriginal
Caledonian forest which covered all this region with one unbroken
umbrageous mass; and there are here and there many of the old giants
which the hand of man never planted, still growing in the loneliest
recesses, and giving an idea of what the whole primeval forest must have
been in its prime, ere the woodman, about a century and a half ago,
invaded its solitudes and ruthlessly cut down its finest trees to be
converted into timber. Most of the trees that now cover the area are of
comparatively recent planting, and though well grown do not display the
rugged picturesqueness for which the fir in its old age is so
remarkable. A plantation of young Scotch firs is as formal as one of any
other species of the pine tribe, and presents an orderly and monotonous
appearance; but as the tree grows older, it develops an amount of
freedom and eccentricity of shape which no one would have expected of
its staid and proper infancy. Its trunk loses its smoothness and
roundness, and bursts out into rugged flakes of bark like the scales on
the talons of a bird of prey or the plates of mail on an armed knight.
Its boughs cease to grow in symmetrical and horizontal lines, and fling
themselves out in all directions gnarled and contorted, as if wrestling
with some inward agony or outward obstacle like a vegetable Laocoön.
Its colour also changes; the trunk becomes of a rich tawny red, which
the level afternoon sun brings out with glowing vividness, and the
blue-green masses of irregular foliage contrast wonderfully with this
rusty hue and attest the strength and freshness of its life. Such old
firs are indeed the trees of the mountain, the companions of the storms
that have twisted their boughs into such picturesque irregularities, and
whose mutterings are ever heard among their sibylline leaves. They are
seen to best advantage when struggling out of the writhing mists that
have entangled themselves among their branches; and no grander
background for a sylvan scene, no more picturesque crown for a rocky
height, no fairer subject for an artist’s pencil exists in Nature.
While the rain brings out the fragrance of the weeping birches, those
"slumbering and liquid trees," as Wilt Whitman calls them,
that are the embodiments of the feminine principle of the woods, it
needs the strongest and hottest sunshine to extract the pungent,
aromatic scents of the sturdy firs, which form the masculine element of
the forest.
The fir is an old-world
tree. Its sigh on the stillest summer day speaks of an immemorial
antiquity. Its form is constructed on a primitive pattern. It is a relic
of the far-off geological ages, when pines like it formed the sole
vegetation of the earth. It is the production of the world’s heroic
age, when Nature seemed to delight in the fantastic exercise of power,
and to exhibit her strength in the growth of giants and monsters. It has
existed throughout all time, and has maintained its characteristic
properties throughout all the changes of the earth’s surface. It forms
the ever-green link between the ages and the zones, growing now as it
grew in the remote past, and preserving the same appearance in build and
figure.
It is a novel experience
to wander on an autumn afternoon through the unbroken forests of
Rothiemurchus. The Scotch fir usually looks its best at this time, for
the older leaves that have a yellow withered hue have been cast and the
new ones developed during the summer shine with a beautiful freshness
and greenness peculiar to the season. Wherever a breach occurs among the
trees, the ground is everywhere covered with a most luxuriant growth of
juniper bushes, some of which are of great age and attain a large size.
The grey-green of the foliage contrasts beautifully with the dark
blue-green of the firs. A dense undergrowth of heather, into which the
foot sinks up to the knee, clothes all the more open spaces. Where the
trees crowd together more closely the heather disappears, and in its
place the ground is carpeted with thickly clustering bushes of the
bilberry and cranberry, whose vivid greenness is very refreshing to the
eye. The huge conical nests of the black ant, composed of withered pine-needles,
are in constant evidence; while on the forest paths, when the sun is
shining, may be seen myriads of the industrious inhabitants passing to
and fro on their various avocations. The labour involved in the
construction of these nests must be enormous. Many of them are old and
abandoned, and over these the cranberry and bilberry bushes, which are
ever pushing forward their roots on new soil, spread themselves so that
they are half or wholly covered with a rank, evergreen vegetation,
indicating their origin only by the undulations they make in the ground.
The aromatic smell that pervades all the air is most refreshing. It
stimulates the whole system as you fill your lungs with its invigorating
breath. The sanative influence of the fir-forest is most remarkable. The
plague and the pestilence disappear, the polluted atmosphere is
deodorised, and with an effect as magical as that of the tree which
sweetened the bitter Marah of the wilderness, the presence of the Scotch
fir purifies the most deadly climate.
There is no wood more
durable than the timber of the old Scotch fir. It is proof, owing to its
aromatic odour, against insect ravages; and its texture is so hard and
compact that it resists the decay of the weather. So charged with
turpentine are the firs of Rothiemurchus, that splinters of the wood
used to be employed as candles to light up the dark nights, when the
people gathered together in some neighbour’s cottage to ply their
spinning-wheels and retail their gossip and old stories. These wood
torches when set in sconces would burn down to the socket with an
unwavering and brilliant flame, and would thus give forth a large amount
of light and heat at the same time. The darker days of late autumn were
always brightened for us by splendid fires made of old roots which had
been left in the ground when the patriarchal trees were cut down, and
which contained a vast amount of resin. I know no fires so delightful—not
even those made of the pine branches of the Vallombrosa forest in Italy—
blazing up at once, as they do, and continuing to the end clear and
bright, while emitting a pleasant fragrance which fills all the room,
and creating a most healthy atmosphere, which counteracts the noxious
influence of the rain and damp. The trees in this cold mountain climate
do not grow very rapidly, but they are valuable in proportion to the
slowness of their growth; the part of the wood which is exposed to the
sunshine being little more than sap-wood of small value, while the part
which is turned to the north, and grows in stormy situations and takes
long to mature, is hard and solid and very valuable. It is of a fine red
colour, and when cut directly to the centre or right across the grain is
very beautiful; the little rings formed of the annual layers being small
and delicate, and in perfectly even lines. The best part is nearest the
root.
About two hundred years
ago, such was the abundance of timber and the difficulty of finding a
market for it, that the laird of Rothiemurchus got only 1s. 8d. a year
for what a man chose to cut down and manufacture for his own use. The
method of making deals was by splitting the wood with wedges, and then
dressing the boards with axe and adze; saw-mills with circular saws and
even the upright hand-saw and plane being altogether unknown. A very old
room in Castle Grant is still floored with deals made in this way,
showing the marks of the adze across the boards. As a specimen of the
immense size of the trees that were cut down in the forests of Glenmore
and Rothiemurchus, there is preserved at Gordon Castle a plank upwards
of six feet in breadth. The trees when felled were made into rafts and
floated down the Spey into the sea. Large heaps of old roots dug up from
the peat-bogs and from the clearings in the forest may be seen piled up
beside every cottage and farmhouse for household fires; and everywhere
the people seem to be as dependent upon the forests as the peasants of
Norway. Indeed, what with the forests and the mountains and the
timber-houses, one might easily imagine oneself wandering in some
Dovrefield valley, instead of at the foot of the Cairngorm range.
For the contemplative and
poetic mind there is no more impressive scene than a fir-forest It is
full of suggestion. It quickens the mind, while it lays its solemn spell
upon the spirit like the aisles of a cathedral. Here time has no
existence. It is not marked as elsewhere by the varying lights and
shades, by the opening and closing of the flowers, by the changes of the
seasons, and the appearance and disappearance of various objects that
make up the landscape. The fir-forest is independent of all these
influences. Its aspect is perennially the same, unchangeable amid all
the changes that are going on outside. Its stillness is awe—inspiring.
It is unlike that of any other scene in Nature. It is not solitude, but
the presence of some mystery—some supernatural power. How vividly, in
the ballad of the "Erl King," does Goethe describe the
peculiar spirit or supernatural feeling of the forest. The silence is
expectant, seems to breathe, to become audible, and to press upon the
soul like a weight. Sometimes it is broken by the coo of a dove which
only emphasises it, and makes the place where it is heard the innermost
shrine, the very soul of the loneliness. Occasionally you hear the grand
sound of the wind among the fir-tops, which is like the distant roar of
the ocean breaking upon a lee-shore. Sometimes a gentle sigh is heard
far off how originating you cannot tell, for there is not a breath of
wind, and not a leaf is stirring; it comes nearer and waxes louder, and
then it becomes an all-pervading murmur. It is like the voice of a god;
and you can easily understand how the fir-forest was peopled with the
dim, mysterious presences of this northern mythology. In its gloomy
perspectives, leading to deeper solitudes, there seem to lurk some weird
mysteries and speechless terrors that keep eye and ear intent. You have
a strange sense of being watched, without love or hate, by all these
silent, solemn, passionless forms, and when most alone you seem least
lonely. |