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Approaches to either side of
the Island, paragraph 1.—Distriet Roads and Statute Labour, 1.—Military
Roads, 3. Parliamentary Roads, 4.—Repair of Public Roads, 6.—Travelling in
the Eighteenth Century, 6.—Public Coaches, 7.—Highland Inns, 8.—Steam
Navigation, 9.—Posting, &c., 10.—Outline of the more interesting Routes,
11.—Expense of Travelling, 12. Approaches to the Highlands.
1. THE main approaches to the
Highlands from the south, are, 1st, By steam from London or Leith to
Inverness, by the Moray Firth, at any of the ports on which the traveller
can stop and penetrate into the "bowels of the land," in any direction he
pleases. 2d, By the coast road from Aberdeen, through Elgin and Nairn
shires. 3d, By the great Highland road across the Grampians from Perth, by
Athole and Badenoch to Inverness, and by branches from Dalwhinnie and
Kingussie to Fort-William. 4th, Nearly parallel to this road, but more to
the east, a new line of communication has been projected from Dunkeld or
Dundee by Braemar, to Grantown in Strathspey, and thence to Forres or Elgin
; but though already partially made, this route has not yet been completed.
5th, The roads leading north-west from the lakes of Perth, Stirling, and
Dumbarton shires, which all either join between Loch Tay and Glencoe, and
thence descend through that romantic gorge, to the Linnhe Loch; or which,
passing more westerly into Argyleshire, skirt the sides of Loch Awe, and,
from its eastern extremity, descend along the flanks of Ben Cruachan by Loch
Etive to Oban and Fort-William. 6th, The great western approach by steam
from Glasgow, by the Crinan and Caledonian Canals; and 7th, The steamers
from Glasgow and Oban to Staffa and Iona, and to Skye and Stornoway in the
outer Hebrides, which perform the voyage twice a-week in summer, and once a
fortnight in winter; and to which may be added the occasional steamers which
now and then take special pleasure trips to St. Kilda and other more remote
islands.
On the eastern coast, a
splendid mail-coach road proceeds along the shore northward from Inverness
to Thurso in Caithness. Beyond Arisaig, on the western coast of
Inverness-shire, however, it is impossible for the traveller as yet to
penetrate by land, without interruption, to the extreme north-west point of
Sutherlandshire. Nor is there much likelihood of a continuous 'inc of road
being projected along this part of that coast. Besides the numerous ferries
to be crossed, there are no roads except footpaths, or at best bridle or
rather break-neck roads, through the rough districts of Morar, Knoydart, and
Glenelg, in Inverness. A carriage road from the head of Loch Torridon by
Kinlochewe, and thence down the west side of Loch Maree to Poolewe, has
lately been finished, and another commenced from Poolewe by Loch Gruinord
and Dundonald to Loch Broom, and one is projected from Shieldaig along Loch
Torridon, which would afford a continuous coast communication from Shiel
House to Ullapool; but from Ullapool through the district of Coigach to Loch
Inver, in Sutherlandshire, there is as yet no public road, and only a very
rough one across the country to Bonar Bridge. Some of these districts in
which the communication is thus cut o fl, are so exceedingly rough and
inaccessible —so remote and so thinly peopled, that public money has not
hitherto been laid out on them ; but the proprietors and their tenants are
exerting themselves to form what are styled district roads through them.
Between the eastern and western coasts, excellent lines of communication
extend from Inverness to Fort-William, and branching from this line from
Invermoriston to Kintail and Skye, from Inverarry to Loch Hourn, and from
Fort-William to Skye; again from Dingwall to Skye, and round by Loch Duich
on the mainland to the Invermoriston road ; from Golspie and Bonar Bridge to
Tongue and Cape Wrath, and round the west and north-east coast of Sutherland
shire. To the south, again, Perthshire is intersected by cross lines of
communication along Loch Tay and Loch Earn; but between these and the Great
Glen, the country is one pathless waste, "by shepherds only trod." It will
be prudent in the traveller to mark the portions of the west coast along
which he cannot bring his own conveyance, or trust to any being procured in
the country.
With these general remarks,
which we know that strangers will be the better of keeping in view, we
proceed now to a short historical sketch of the Roads, modes of Conveyance,
Inns, &c., to which, if our readers will refer occasionally in their
journeys, they will find that they have enabled us to avoid much repetition
and detail in our subsequent chapters. Indeed, the progress of improvement
in the Highlands has been so dependent on their being made accessible by
roads (for previously even large armies could not penetrate them except by
sea, or by burning down the native forests), that the present state of the
country would be unintelligible, except by first glancing at such an
historical retrospect.
Roads.
2. By the old acts of the
Parliament of Scotland, it would appear that the legislature anciently
interested itself only in looking after the highways immediately contiguous
to market towns, and such as led to the parish churches, and scarcely any
thought seems to have been employed on the propriety of forming great public
lines of road through the country. It is hence not till near the close of
the seventeenth century, that we discover the first germs, in the public
enactments, of the modern regulation of highways, bridges, and ferries.
Several excellent statutes were then passed, constituting the Justices of
the Peace, and Commissioners of Supply existing in each county for assessing
the land-tax, trustees or guardians of the highways, and vesting them with
ample powers for their regulation and improvement. They are in particular
authorized to call out annually all agricultural tenants, with their cottars
and servants, and almost all other male persons, to perform six days' work,
with their horses, carts, or sleds, and proper tools, for upholding the
highways; the legal breadth of which is twenty feet, exclusive of the ditch
on either side. Power also was given to the justices, acting as road
trustees, to make bridges, regulate public ferries, alter the direction of
the roads, and shut up useless ones. Subsequent enactments have enabled the
different counties to convert the personal services required from the
tenants into small sums of money, payable annually. In common with almost
all other male persons, they are subject to a small direct contribution, or
capitation tax, and were liable in a further sum, proportioned to their
rents, in lieu of their horses and carts, and payable to their landlords,
who are assessed to double or triple the amount. Under these statutes almost
all the district or cross roads of the country are now maintained; but while
each shire has a local road act of its own, "they are all subject to the
regulations of a public one for the conversion of statute service into
money," passed on the 21st July 1845.
3. In the south of Scotland,
even at the beginning of last century, tolerably good roads were made in
virtue of the old laws; but it is questionable whether the gentry in the
Highlands ever availed themselves in the slightest degree, till after the
rebellion of 1745, of the powers thereby put into their hands for opening up
their wild and inaccessible estates. During the previous rebellion of 1715,
however, the expediency of rendering accessible the fastnesses of the North,
became apparent to government, as a measure of national police. The royal
troops were, at that time, unable to penetrate beyond Blair in Athole; but
before 1730, several great lines of road were commenced by the labours of
the soldiery, which were finished in six or eight years afterwards ; namely,
from Callander, near Stirling, to Tyndrum, and from Luss, on Loch Lomond
side, both by the head of that lake, and by Inverary, to the same point, and
thence to Fort-William by Glencoe, and from Fort-William through the Great
Glen to Fort-George; from Crieff and from Dunkeld to Dalnacardoch, thence to
Dalwhinnie, and from that to Fort-Augustus and to Inverness, and from Cupar-Angus
by Braemar to Fort-George; and, besides these main lines, there were a few
cross roads. Latterly, the total extent of these military roads was about
800 miles: they were provided with upwards of 1000 bridges. Some parts being
subsequently abandoned, or taken under the charge of the proprietors through
whose estates the roads proceeded, the length of road requiring the aid of
government for its repair was reduced, at the close of last century, to 599
miles.
Those roads were formed by
parties of soldiers, who during the working season received a small increase
of pay: each party was under the direction of a master mason and an
overseer, who had his instructions from an officer called the baggage-master
and inspector of roads in North Britain, and who was directly amenable to
the commander-in-chief of the forces for Scotland.
Under this system of military
charge, the roads had continued till the year 1799, and for their formation
and support grants were made by parliament of from £4000 to £7000 a-year.
Doubts having been raised in parliament as to the propriety of continuing to
support these roads out of the public purse, the opinions of Sir Ralph
Abcrcromby, commander-in-chief, and Colonel Anstruther, general-inspector,
were taken (in 1798) on the subject. Both of these officers admitted that,
as military roads, they had become unnecessary ; but the latter, in
particular, contended that they were of the greatest use for civil purposes
; and that, if neglected, the Highlanders, from the progress they had made
in civilisation, would soon relapse into their former ignorance and slavish
dependence on their chiefs, or would desert their country. By them also, and
by the Highland Society, the anomaly was explained to government of a
country not being able to support its own roads by the statute-labour and by
tolls, in consequence of the thinness of its population and the small number
of travellers frequenting it.
4. It was for these reasons
that the ministry, in 1802 and 1803, when they began to attend to the
general improvement of the Highlands, resolved to continue the grants for
keeping the communication open with the low country, and of one part of the
Highlands with another. Provision was further made for defraying one half of
the estimated expense of such additional roads and bridges as might appear
most necessary; the other half to be defrayed by the proprietors of land, or
other persons who would be benefited thereby. By the act, commissioners were
appointed to insure the proper expenditure of the public money, and the
efficient and economical performance of the works. The Highland counties
were prompt to the call of government in contributing their quota. The whole
amount of parliamentary advances, including interest, has been £267,000, and
the counties assessed themselves in about £214,000, towards the construction
of these recent roads; being only liable for half the expense of making the
roads, the expense of general management falling on the public. About
£60,000 beyond these sums have had to be defrayed by individuals; so that
about £540,000 have been expended on the Highland parliamentary roads. The
length of new roads formed by this joint fund has been 875 miles, and the
number of bridges of all kinds 1117, the whole of which were completed in
1820. With the exception of 148 miles in Argyleshire and Bute, these
parliamentary roads lie almost wholly in Inverness-shire and the northern
counties.
5. The military roads had,
meanwhile, continued to be kept in repair entirely at the public expense, at
a cost of from £4000 to £7000 per annum, and under the charge of a military
superintendent till 1814 ; when this being considered too heavy a burden,
considering the large sums advancing for the formation of new roads, the
grant for the repairs of the military roads was reduced, for six years, to
£2500. In consequence, a large portion of them has been allowed to sink into
neglect. The line from Tarbet, by Inverary and Tyndrum, to Fort-William, and
thence to Fort-George, and that from Inverness by Badenoch to the confines
of Perthshire, with a portion of the Strathspey roads (in all about 260
miles), are now alone attended to. Since 1819, government has allowed £5000
a-year towards the expense of keeping both the military and parliamentary
roads in repair; the whole being put, since 1814, under the management of
the commissioners, and extending (including 138 miles of new county roads in
Caithness) to 1286 miles. Their total maintenance comes to about £11,000
a-year, of which about four-fifths is for actual outlay on the roads. The
counties have of late years begun to seek some relief from the pressure of
their assessments by the erection of tolls on the more frequented roads, the
proprietors thereby shifting from themselves on the public a considerable
annual outlay. Originally it was intended by government, that, as in
Ireland, the roads through the Highlands of Scotland should he toll free,
owing to the poverty of the people.
It appears quite unnecessary
for us to detail the minute differences, in size and construction, between
the military and the new roads. The former were narrow, but rarely provided
with parapets or drains; the bridges were high and steep, and the roads were
carried over every inequality of surface in as rectilineal a direction as
possible--imperfections, it is needless to add, not chargeable against the
parliamentary roads, which are, in general, well engineered. Many of the old
military bridges, however, have stood the severest winter floods, in
consequence of their arches being highly pointed, few, and open, and having
no breastworks of stone at either end. In some instances the road has been
often swept away at their extremities, and their bare gaunt masses left
spanning a wide stream, apparently for no useful purpose. Besides the public
roads, there are numerous district roads, supported by the statute-labour to
which we have already alluded.
6. Notwithstanding, however,
that, since the middle of the last century, the communication between the
Highlands and Lowlands was opened in several directions, yet the inhabitants
were extremely slow in availing themselves of the advantages of easy and
expeditious travelling. For a considerable time after the suppression of the
rebellion of 1745, the great Highland road by Badenoch was infested by gangs
of desperate robbers; and so unsafe was the route across the Grampians, that
many persons made their wills before undertaking a journey beyond their own
neighbourhood. Garrons, or little Highland ponies, were then used by
gentlemen as well as by the peasantry; inns were few and uncomfortable; and,
even when post-chaises were introduced, the expense of hiring one was
thought on for weeks, perhaps months, and arrangements made for dividing it
among as many individuals as it would contain. If the harness and springs of
the vehicle kept together, the travellers were introduced, jaded and weary,
on the evening of the eighth day after that on which they had left
Inverness, to the High Street or the Grassmarket of Edinburgh.
Public Coaches.
7. No regular post was
established between Inverness and Edinburgh till after the Union ; and for
fifty years the letters, which were brought only once a-week, were carried
by foot-runners. To these succeeded riding-posts and single-seated cars. In
the year 1806, the Caledonian coach commenced running between Inverness and
Perth, a distance of 115 miles, and the journey was performed in two days.
This undertaking was looked on as extremely hazardous to the parties
concerned in it; and was, in fact, given up by all but one individual (the
late Mr. Peter Anderson, solicitor in Inverness), who for a long period
conducted it solely at his own risk. This road is now travelled either way,
every day, in about fourteen hours, by a mail coach; while in summer, one or
two other daily coaches are put on the road.
In the year 1811,a mail
diligence, drawn by two horses, was established between Aberdeen and
Inverness, a road on which there are at present three daily four-horse
coaches, the Mail, Defiance, and Star.
Various attempts were made,
at different times, to extend the coaching system to Tain and the northern
towns, but without success, till the year 1819 ; when a mail diligence,
drawn by two horses, and under a special contract with government, was
established between Inverness and Thurso, and which has been of the greatest
benefit to the districts through which it passes. The conductors of this
coach have handsome allowances for carrying the letters, and they are
exempted from the usual coach duty. It is now driven as far as Tain with
four horses, to which place also another daily four-horse coach generally
runs in summer, and a third from Inverness to Strathpeffer. For several
summers an enterprising company has run a large daily four-horse coach
(called the Breadalbane) all the way from Glasgow by Lochlomond, Glencoe,
and Fort William, to Inverness, along a route unequalled perhaps in Europe
for the variety and magnificence of its scenery. The journey was performed
in two days. Another coach by the same route, so far, runs to Oban,
diverging at Tyndrum.
The other Highland districts
are now also pretty well accommodated. There is a coach running from Dunkeld,
by Killin, to Loch Lomond; and another from Oban to Inverary and to Tarbet
on Loch Lomond, by Glencroe; also one from Inverary to Loch Goilhead ;
several between Stirling and the Trosachs; one from the bridge of Carr
through Strathspey to Elgin and Fochabers ; and in the extreme north, a
coach from Thurso to Tongue, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, returning
the intermediate days. Besides these, we may mention the open mail-gigs,
which run three times a-week between Dingwall and Dunvegan in Skye, and
proceed twice a-week (on 'Mondays and Thursdays) from Golspie both to Tongue
and Assynt, and return on the Wednesday and Saturday. Each of these
conveyances accommodates three passengers. In the south, a mail phaeton runs
daily between Dunkeld and Taymouth, and between Pitlochrie and Rannoch, on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and various public conveyances carry
crowds of passengers to and from Perth and Blair Athole.
Railways.
These are truly the links and
chains by which the distant provinces of a great empire like ours are
compactly united together, and brought near to the capital and great market
towns, whether for commercial intercourse in times of peace, or for safety
and mutual protection in war. It is impossible at present to say of what
importance, in a national point of view, the remote districts of Scotland
may he to the rest of the country, or how requisite it may yet be for
government to have the means of speedily concentrating troops on our
northern shores. But from the depressed state of the railway interests it is
obvious that, if this mode of completing the communication between the
Highlands and the south is carried through, it must be after the cost of
constructing and maintaining railways has been greatly reduced, and most
probably not without assistance from government.
In the year 1846, two
opposing companies started railway schemes, one to connect Inverness
coastways, through Elgin and Aberdeen shires, with the series of railways
then in progress along the eastern counties of Scotland ; while the other
proposed to carry a through line, 67 miles shorter, by the great valleys of
Strathspey, Badenoch, and Athole, direct to Perth, and based on the north by
a railway between Inverness and Elgin, which was to communicate by short
branches with the ports of the Moray Firth. Such schemes were perhaps,
though grand in conception and well engineered, premature with reference to
the present cost of construction. The Aberdeen line (to be called the Great
North of Scotland), had its act passed, but the works have not yet been
commenced. From Inverness to the Spey, near Fochabers, their construction
would not he expensive, as the ground is throughout level, and composed of
sand and gravel, requiring no rock cutting ; and the traffic along this
portion of the line would undoubtedly be remunerative. The crossing of the
Spey at the point selected (a short way above Fochabers), involved most
formidable works, and a VIADUCT on high arches, of more than a mile and
a-half in extent. And accordingly, it is understood that the projectors are
to abandon this portion of the scheme, and at the sacrifice of a detour of
some miles inland, to cross the river Spey higher up by means of pa bridge
thrown from the opposing rocks at Craigeilach.ie. The route thence to
Aberdeen is practicable, but in many parts steep enough, the ruling gradient
being the same in general as that which would have occurred in the rival
direct line to Perth. The course of this latter line is worthy of being
briefly described. Inverness and Elgin were to be its two northern termini,
and from the vicinity of Nairn, nearly half way between these towns, the-
main line was to ascend along the sloping ridges which bound Strathnairn on
the south, and was to cross the river Findhorn at Dulsie Bridge, whence it
was to skirt the base of the Knock of Brae Moray, and passing through a
valley south of Lochindhorbh, was to reach Strathspey near the Kirk of
Duthel. Its course thence to the summit level of the country in the pass of
Drumouchter, was remarkably . straight, and almost all along gravel plains
and terraces, and the altitude there attained would be about 1450 feet above
the sea, with slopes on either side, each of about sixty miles in length.
The steepest gradient to be overcome was 1 in 75 for a distance of eight
miles from the summit on the descent into Athole; and another ascent from
Nairn to the river Findhorn, involved a gradient of 1 in 84 for seven miles,
which two acclivities, it was computed, would have required an additional
cost of £3000 a-year for extra engines. It is believed that easier gradients
would ultimately have been discovered ; but if not, evidence was given by
the most eminent engineers, that the inclinations referred to were nowise
formidable in themselves, and that steeper gradients were worked in several
parts of the kingdom, especially on the Carlisle and Lancaster line, and the
Caledonian has a gradient precisely similar in degree and in extent. The
Parliamentary committee, without going into any inquiry as to the traffic
evidence, refused the bill, "having arrived at this result (as their
decision expressed it), solely on the present state of experience as to the
working of severe gradients of considerable length, over great altitudes,
and are not to be taken as giving any opinion against the formation of the
Perth and Inverness line, should the experience of the working of railroads
now in progress of formation, or of others of a similar character, support
the principle upon which the Perth and Inverness is proposed to be
constructed. Neither is it the intention of the committee in any way to
prejudge the question, whether, even if a line be constructed from Aberdeen
to Inverness, the northern counties of &otland are not entitled to the
benefit of a second line from Perth, to Inverness." As railway speculations
have since turned out, this decision was probably a fortunate one for the
shareholders; but the reasoning of it is important, and should still be kept
in view with reference to the future dealings of government for developing
the resources, and completing the defences of the kingdom.
With regard to traffic, the
promoters of the direct line to Perth announced that they were prepared to
prove, that, taking as a basis for calculation the great number of persons
who for business or pleasure at present pass through the Highland counties
every summer and autumn, there was reason to believe that there would be
from 45,000 to 50,000 through passengers by the railway a-year; that about
140,000 sheep would annually take the rails at various points ; from 30,000
to 40,000 lean cattle ; about 2000 fat cattle at the least, and six or eight
times as many fat sheep; that a very large proportion of the merchandise,
now sent to the Highlands by sea, would arrive by rail in preference, while
the products of the country would be sent south by it, such as grain,
timber, [There are not short of three millions of tons of growing timber
along the line, and 60,000 acres of improveable land.] game, slates, and
building stones, and the products of the distilleries; and that coals and
lime would be extensively passed along the line for domestic use and local
improvement, and perhaps for smelting the lead, iron, and copper ores,
believed to be existing in many -parts of the country. If the data on which
those calculations were founded were at all correct, and they were very
similar to -those adduced by the supporters of the Great North of Scotland,
and by the South Aberdeen Railway Company in the year 1845, it would appear
that a direct railway through the centre of the Highlands, collecting the
traffic from both north and south, and dispersing it at its termini, and on
all sides of it in its course, ought to yield a gross annual return of about
£140,000.
In the year 1847, the
legislature, on the representations chiefly of the then Lord Advocate, and
of Lord Breadalbanc, and with the view of giving employment to the destitute
Highland population, sanctioned the laying down of a railway from Glasgow to
Dumbarton, and the lower end of Loch Lomond, and from the further extremity
of this lake to Oban. Only one portion of this line has as yet been formed
(viz., from Bowling Bay, on the Clyde, to Loch Lomond), which will greatly
improve the means of communication, but it is not probable that the rest of
the works will be attempted for several years to come.
Inns.
8. On the state of the inns,
that momentous topic to the traveller, it may be safely asserted that
accommodation, in this particular, is now almost universally pretty good—in
many instances excellent. In the south Highlands, where they are all well
frequented, the inns are commodious, and in every respect well conducted.
Along the line of the public coach road from Perth to Thurso they are
generally roomy and comfortable; and though metropolitan elegance cannot be
expected, and even much of low-country snugness is at times awanting, yet
the traveller will find himself necessitated to forego but few of "the
comforts of the Saut-market." On most of the other roads the inns are
naturally on a lower scale. In the Great Glen, and from Fort-William to
Stirling, and between Dingwall and Portree, they are generally of a
respectable class; and on all the parliamentary roads, and through most
parts of the Highlands, and even in Sutherlandshire, where now the superior
character of many of the inns will agreeably surprise the traveller, at
intervals of from ten to fifteen miles, there are, if not in all cases
exactly falling under the term inn, at least what are called, in Scotland,
public-houses; buildings consisting chiefly of two storeys, slated and
floored, and containing from four to eight rooms. The latter are, perhaps,
in some few instances, rather scantily furnished, and may want carpets and
bed curtains, but they are generally provided with both ; and not
unfrequently the tourist will be gratified by the unexpected savoir vivre he
will meet with. Considering the recent establishment of these inns, and the
want of familiarity on the part of the Highland peasantry with the more
refined habits and comforts of the south, the business of innkeeping has
fully kept pace with the other improvements of the country. If much
refinement and elegance is not everywhere to be seen, there is at least
abundance of substantial commodities : no lack of black-faced mutton and
poultry, with the addition of salmon, and various other excellent fishy on
the sea-coasts; and, indeed, scarcely a burn but affords trout. The
traveller may everywhere calculate on the luxuries of tea and sugar, and
generally loaf-bread or biscuits;—eggs and milk, with whisky, &c., always in
abundance;—not unfrequently a good bottle of wine, in sufficiently remote
localities. The wayfarer need be under no apprehension of Highland eagles
banqueting on his famished carcass, or of being subjected to any
pyroligneous process in chimneyless hovels surcharged with "peat reek."
There is no fear as to fare; but the tourist's patience is sometimes not a
little taxed by the tardiness of the attendance, arising from the
comparatively limited intercourse in some directions. It must also be
confessed that, in many of the inferior inns, there is a lamentable
inattention to cleanliness, at least in the staircase and passage, and about
the doors. The rooms, however, are not much to be complained of, though a
little painting and papering would greatly improve them, and care is almost
invariably observed to have the bedclothes and table-linen unobjectionable.
Though we have experienced very little reason for the precaution, the more
inexperienced traveller may not be the worse of being recommended to attend,
at least in the more unfrequented roads, to have the bedclothes aired. We
may add, that the horse will be as well off as his rider; good stabling
being seldom wanting. Neither need the Saxon be apprehensive of finding
himself at a loss to make his wants known, as it very rarely happens that
individuals are not now met with who understand the English language.
Steam Navigation.
Conveyance by steam has been
as signal in its effects in our northern localities as
elsewhere—annihilating distance, and pouring a tide of living energies
through scenes heretofore se-eluded. Steam vessels ply daily in summer, and
twice a-week all the year to and from Inverness and Glasgow, along the
passage between the west coast and islands, and through the Caledonian Canal
and its grand series of lakes. At each end of the Crinan Canal, as also at
the west end of the Caledonian Canal, the passengers and luggage are now
transferred, and the whole voyage is performed in summer in less than two
days. The boats from Glasgow reach Oban about 5pm., and Fort-William and
Bannavie the same evening, and those for Glasgow arrive at Bannavie about 3
P. M., and at Oban about six o'clock, remaining there for the night. In
connexion with or independent of these boats, others diverge from Oban
between May and October, now daily, weather permitting, to Staffa and Iona,
making the circuit of the Island of Mull. Glencoe can also be visited every
day from Oban, returning in the evening, or proceeding to Bannavie. Two
boats ply every week from Glasgow to Oban and Skye, and one every fortnight
proceeds as far as Stornoway in Lewis. These make the voyage round the Mull
of Cantyre, calling at Port Askaig, in Islay, as also at Loch Inver, in
Sutherland shire. In and about the Firth of Clyde, steam-boats are
innumerable ; and steamers ramify from it in all directions. Two sail every
day up and down Loch Lomond, which the tourist can visit from and return the
same day to Glasgow; or he may reach it also, or Edinburgh, by the Trosachs
and Stirling, there being a tiny steamer on Loch Catrine. Another boat also
forms a regular communication between the head of Loch Tarbet and the Island
of Islay. On the east coast, a large steamer plies every alternate Monday
between London and Inverness, and ports in the Moray Firth; numerous steam
vessels connect the metropolis with Edinburgh, Dundee, Montrose, and
Aberdeen. Two of the Leith and Aberdeen boats proceed weekly to Inverness,
leaving Leith on Tuesday and Thursday, and Inverness on Thursday night and
Monday morning ; and between all these places there are regular trading
smacks. Of these steamers one alternately visits Aberdeen, and thus makes
the voyage in twenty-four hours or less. Another steamer from Leith visits
the ports on the Moray Firth and coasts of Sutherland, coming up too as far
as Inverness while a small steamer supplies the trade from Inverness to
Invergordon, Findhorn, and the Little Ferry. A steam-boat now likewise plies
every week between Leith and the Orkney and Shetland Isles—from Leith on
Fridays, and from Kirkwall on Tuesdays. The passage by the London and
Inverness boat is performed in sixty to seventy hours, and at a moderate
expense. Two regular sailing packets ply between Leith and Kirkwall, and one
from Leith to Stromness. The communication is thus once a fortnight. Larger
and better vessels sail also once a fortnight between Leith and Shetland.
Posting, &c.
10. Besides the public
coaches, steam-boats, and packet vessels, travellers can, in most of the
towns on the east coast and the southern boundary of the Highlands, be
accommodated with post-chaises, open cars, and four-wheeled phaetons, gigs,
and riding-horses, and with post-horses on the Highland road from Inverness
to Perth. On the west coast, common carts, with a swing seat in the centre,
are much used as substitutes for cars or gigs. There are such kept for hire
at Fort-William, Ballachulish, and other neighbouring places ; while at Oban
there is a good supply of vehicles of various sorts.
Outline of the more
interesting Routes.
11. It may not be
unacceptable to the tourist to have an outline given of the most interesting
routes through the Highlands. We will suppose him at Inverness, which he may
have reached either by steam from London or Leith, or by the Highland road
from Perth, and in the first instance not purposing to go farther north, and
limited in time. The line of the Great Glen to Fort-William, and thence
southwards, will be most generally followed ; and we would recommend the
traveller, should he be journeying, as he most probably will, by the
steam-boat, to leave it at Oban, and _proceed thence by coach round the head
of Loch Awe and Dalmally; and thence by Loch Lomond to Glasgow or to
Inverary. From Inveraiy he may proceed by steam down Loch Fyne, and through
the Kyles of Bute, and up the Firth of Clyde; or by Loch Goilhead, Loch
Long, or Loch Eck, to Greenock; or by Loch Lomond, or the Gareloch, to
Dumbarton and Glasgow. By the public conveyances this distance from
Inverness to Glasgow occupies two days in summer, and three the rest of the
year. Should the traveller be pressed for time, he should not omit visiting
Loch Lomond. If able to spare an additional day, let him follow either of
the other courses; and, stopping at Dumbarton, from thence proceed to that
beautiful lake, and diverge to the Trosachs and Stirling, from whence he
may, if bent on it, reach Glasgow or Edinburgh the same night. But if he
have more leisure, there are many objects to attract the tourist's attention
along the main line.
First in importance are the
islands of Staffa and Iona. At Oban he will remove into another steam-boat,
which will convey him round ,Mull, that same day, to Staffa and Iona,
Tobermory, and back to Oban. Instead of returning at once from Tobermory,
two or three days cannot be better employed than in visiting Skye, by the
steam-boats which ply to that island. Next in interest to Staffa, the
scientific traveller will perhaps be disposed to visit the Parallel Roads of
Glenroy. This he must accomplish previously to leaving the Great Glen, by
stopping at Letterfinlay on Loch Lochy, or at Fort-William. The former, or
Spean Bridge midway, is most convenient in point of distance. By a little
active exertion they may easily be visited, and Fort-William reached the
same night. The ascent of Ben Nevis is a feat which most people feel an
anxiety to perform. It will occupy one whole day. Should circumstances
permit, we would suggest the Vale of Killean, eight or nine miles distant
from the Fall of Foyers, as well worthy of a visit on foot or horseback, in
connexion with the fall; and, instead of going through with a boat, let the
traveller cross the lake to Urquhart, and proceed four or five miles up that
glen, as far as Loch Meiklie. Returning to Drumnadrochet, at the mouth of
Glen Urquhart, he will proceed by the banks of Loch Ness to Invermoriston;
or, landing first at Urquhart, he can more conveniently be ferried over to
Foyers at Ruisky, and recross the lake there again. A delightful excursion
may be made from Invermoriston up Glen Moriston, and along Glen Shiel, to
Loch Duich. From hence Skye can be readily reached. Or the pedestrian may
cross the hill to Loch Hournhead, and from that return to the Great Glen at
Invergarry; or the tourist retracinghis steps up Glen Shiel to Cluany, will
find a road leading into Glen Garry, at Tomandoun. The larger circuit from
Invermoriston to Invergarry is about eighty miles. If not disposed to make
this whole tour, still it will be well to ramble for five or six miles up
Glen Moriston and Glen Garry. Loch Arkaig is well worthy of a visit. A
parliamentary road leads to the foot of the lake from the village of Corpaeh,
a distance of nine miles; and a bad country road also communicates between
Highbridge and Gairlochy, at the west end of Loch Lochy. The traveller will
likewise find an excursion of two days from Fort-William or Corpach to
Arisaig well repay the trouble; or in one day Loch Shiel, and Prince
Charles's monument may be visited. Glencoe and Loch Leven are every way
worthy of having a day devoted to them; and the traveller can proceed from
Ballachulish to Oban, either by water or land. He will be highly gratified
either way. Glencoe is a daily excursion now from Oban. Lastly, the tourist
may, in the course of a few days, with the greatest convenience, visit the
islands of Isla and Jura, Colonsay, and Oronsay; and he can be at no loss in
reaching, from any part of the Clyde, either directly or by a little
circuit, the Island of Arran—to explore whose wild and picturesque scenery
and remarkable geological structure will be found of no ordinary interest.
To perform a complete tour of
the Perth and Stirlingshire Highlands, the traveller should proceed to
Stirling ; thence, if his time permit, we would recommend him, instead of
proceeding direct to Loch Catrine, to go round by Crieff and Comrie to
Lochearnhead. From that to Callander by Loch Lubnaig. This circuitous route
to Callander from Stirling is fifty-two, the direct road only sixteen miles.
The Trosachs and Loch Catrine can either be seen in one day from Stirling;
or the visitor may, from the upper end of the lake, return by Loch Ard,
Aberfoyle, and other scenes celebrated in the novel of Rob Roy. The whole
extent of this excursion, from and back to Stirling, is seventy-four miles.
Should it he found impracticable both to go round by Crieff and to visit
Loch Catrine, preference is due to the latter and contiguous scenery, or
vice versa, and the round between Glasgow and Stirling accomplished in one
day. It can also be reached from Loch Lomond. From Callander, the next stage
in our progress northwards is Lochearnhead. The pedestrian may reach it from
Loch Achray, by crossing the hill through Glenfinlas. Leaving Lochearnhead
for Loch Tay, we reach Killin, and proceed by either side of the lake, the
south preferable, to Kenmore, thence to the lower part of Glenlyon, and to
Fortingal. But the tourist ought not to omit a visit to the Falls of Dloness,
at Aberfeldy. Instead of pursuing the course of the Tay, our advice is to
cross from FortingaF to Strathtummel, either at Tummel Bridge, or Kinloch
Rannoch, and to descend that valley, either crossing at the bridge of Garry,
or by boat at Pitlochrie, farther down. Hence, through the romantic pass of
Killiecrankie, we enter Blair Athole. Having examined the Falls of Bruar and
Fender, and the beauties of Glen Tilt, the traveller, retracing his steps,
will proceed to Dunkeld and Perth. The whole length of the devious route
here chalked out is, from Stirling about 230, from Glasgow 260 miles. The
main and direct line from Stirling to Loch Catrine, Loch Tay, Strathtummnel,
Blair, Dunkeld, and Perth, is about 150 miles.
Reconducting the reader now
to the north, we would direct his notice to the high claims of the river
Findhorn, and of Strathspey, to a share of the tourist's attention. An
excursion from Inverness by Fort-George and Cawdor Castle to Forres, and
thence up the Findhorn to Farness; or if on foot, to Free-burn, and from
either of these places to Grantown and the upper district of Strathspey,
will be found full of interest. The distance from Inverness to Forres,
Freeburn, Bridge of Carr,Grantown,Kinrara, and back to Inverness, may be
about 140 miles; or, proceeding straight from Forres to Grantown, about
twenty miles less.
If desirous of becoming
acquainted with Ross-shire and the northern counties, the traveller may make
an agreeable journey, of 150 miles, from Inverness, by Dingwall, to Loch
Carron, and back by Dornie, Shielhouse, and Loch Ness. We would especially
recommend him to diverge from Auchnasheen to the head of Loch Maree, and
after satisfying himself with the wild beauties of this fine sheet of water,
whether as to he seen at its upper extremity, or by a sail to its numerous
islands, or to the further end, let him, making if he incline a circuit
byGareloch, (now accessible by a road along Loch Maree) proceed from Kinloch
Ewe to the head of Loch Torridon; there to send back his vehicle to
Auchnasheen, and to go on to meet him at Jeantown, while he takes boat for
the village of Shieldaig, and thence walks on by Kishorn, or, better still,
round by Apple-cross, to Jeantown; where, resuming his conveyance, he will
pursue the course indicated by Dornie — and he had better take Plockton and
Balmacarra by the way—to Shielhouse and Invermoriston, devoting a day at
Shielhouse to visit the Falls of Glomack. On his way to Loch Ness he can
cross at Foyers to the Fall, and returning, take a run from Drumnadrochet
for four or five miles up Glen Urquhart. With a gig, this excursion will
occupy about seven or eight days, and we could hardly point out a more
varied and interesting succession of scenery. The tourist will find some
rich and fine scenery between Dingwall and Invergordon; and, if an admirer
of a fertile grain country, he will in Easter Ross, between the latter place
and Tarbet Ness, find a great extent of land in as high a state of
cultivation as any in the kingdom. In five or six days, the active
pedestrian may, from Strathgarve, on the Loch Carron road, make a circuit by
Loch Broom and Ullapool, Poolewe on Loch Maree, Gareloch and Loch Torridon,
to Jeantown, a stretch of wild and grand scenery, but very little known;
recently, however, much opened up by connecting lines of road, wanting only
a few miles between Strath Broom and Little Loch Broom, to complete the
communication ; or from Ullapool, a walk of twenty miles past Achall,
conducts by a beautiful route to Oikel Bridge, on the Assynt and Golspie
road ; whence the traveller can shape his course either to the north or east
coast of Sutherlandshire. Whether he enters Ross-shire or not, he ought to
visit the Falls of Kilmorack, on the Beauly; and he will not be disappointed
if he penetrate to the head of Strathglass or Glenstrathfarar, or to Loch
Africk; nor, if on foot, can he find a tract more worthy of being explored
than the shores of Benneveian and Loch Affrick, and descending thence into
Kintail, past the stupendous Fall of Glomak. This indeed is a route which
will well repay the pedestrian tourist's pains, should he choose it in
connexion with that indicated by Dingwall, Jeantown, and Shielhouse,
proceeding thence through Strath Africk to Strathglass, instead of
proceeding from Shielhouse by Loch Ness, which, with Glenmoriston, Urquhart,
and Foyers, can be visited with equal convenience from Loch Ness. To render
Lochs Benneveian and Affrick objects of more frequent attraction to all
classes of travellers, nothing is wanted but the connexion of the head of
Glen Urquhart and Strathglass, which requires the formation of only about
three miles of road, and better accommodation at Invercanich in Strathglass,
all which is projected, and, we trust, will soon be accomplished. This would
open up one of the finest drives in the Highlands—say from Inverness, by the
south side of Loch Ness to the Pass of Inverfarikaig, Fall of Foyers, Vale
of Killean, and Fort-Augustus; thence to Invermoriston (which may be more
conveniently approached along the north side of the lake, crossing to Foyers
on the way, and recrossing), and eight or nine miles up the glen—along Loch
Ness side to Drumnadrochet, and up Glen Urquhart into Strathglass at
Invercannich, seven miles above Struy Bridge—up the course of the Glass to
Loch Benneveian, to the end of which, eight miles above Invercannich, a good
carriage road conducts, and beyond it the way must be found by boat, on
foot, or horseback. Retracing his steps, the wayfarer descends Strathglass
to Struy, Erchless Castle, the Drhuim, and Falls of Kilmorack, to Beauly
Bridge, and regains Inverness by the fine district of the Aird. At Struy,
Glenstrathfarar will be found well worthy of attention. The whole of this
distance may be about 150 miles, and might be curtailed by omitting some of
the scenes. Taken in connexion with the round from Dingwall by Loch Carron,
Loch Maree, and Shielhouse (where the Falls of Glomak should not be
forgotten), and Invermoriston, we do not think it possible in the compass of
ten to fourteen days' travelling for the stranger to select a more admirable
route. But for the present the little hiatus at the head of Glen Urquhart
mars the continuity.
The circuit of the western
section of Sutherlandshire, presenting a succession of wild and, till very
recently, almost inaccessible scenes from Bonar Bridge, or the Mound (each
about sixty miles from Inverness), to Tongue, Cape Wrath, and round by
Assynt, is 180 miles.
From the Mound, round the
west and north coasts of Sutherland and of Caithness shires, to John-o'-Groat's
House, and thence by the east coast to the same point, the distance is
rather more than 260 miles. The lover of cliff scenery will find ample
gratification in this tour. An additional week or less will make him
acquainted with all the more interesting features of the Orkney Islands.
Expense of Travelling.
12. We will conclude this
article by giving a few particulars as to the expense of travelling in the
Highlands. The rate of posting is Is. 6d. a mile ; is. a mile, or about 15s.
a-day, is usually charged for a car, or four-wheeled vehicle, or 10s. to
12s. with the horse's keep; and 10s. for a gig, under the same condition;
and 5s. for a riding horse When required for several days together, about a
fifth less than these prices will be taken. Nothing additional to the usual
gratuity to himself, and his living, is charged for a lad, if required to
take charge of the vehicle. A horse's keep in travelling will cost 4s. to
5s. a-day. The charges at the principal inns, in towns, are pretty much the
same as in the south; viz. 2s., or 2s. 6d., to 3s., or 3s. 6d. for dinner ;
Is. 3d. to 2s. for a substantial breakfast, or similar evening repast; 1s.
to 2s. 6d. and 3s. for a bed, for which a charge is seldom made when the
traveller has a horse. Port and sherry, 5s. a bottle ; malt liquor, 8d. or
10d.; brandy, with warm water, at the rate of 3s. 6d. per half pint; whisky
about one-half that price, or less. In the country inns, the lower rates
mentioned above, or less, are charged. Wine and brandy are seldom kept in
the inferior inns, nor malt liquor, or it is of indifferent quality, where
there is a land-carriage. Servants in the best inns are paid 4d. to 6d. a
meal, by persons travelling singly; in the inferior inns, they do not expect
so much. The cabin fare by the steam-boats, from Glasgow to Inverness, is
£1: 1s.; from Leith, 16s.; from Aberdeen, 10s.; and from London to
Inverness, £3 : 10s.; and £2 : 2s. steerage, living included; from Leith to
Orkney, £1: 13s.; from Glasgow to Oban, 10s. 6d.; and thence to Staffa and
Iona, and back, 21s.; and to Skye, 25s., steerage, 8s.; passengers paying
extra for their eating. Three pounds are charged from London to Aberdeen,
living included. The passage by the sailing smacks, between London and
Inverness, is £1 :11:6; for which abundance of substantial fare is provided,
the average length of the passage being seven or eight days. A berth in one
of the Leith and Orkney packets comes to 25s., living included. These reach
their destination occasionally in thirty hours; sometimes, though seldom,
not for six or ten days. An inside seat in the coach, from Inverness to
Perth (116 miles), costs Sts.; an outside, 25s.: the mail 10s. and 7s. more.
From Aberdeen to Inverness (108 miles), the charge is £2 inside, and 21s.
outside. Between Inverness and Thurso (141 miles), by the mail, the fare is
£2: 11 : 6: inside, and £1: 17:6 outside; or 4½d. and 3d. per mile. The mail
gigs charge about 21d. per mile. Travellers complain with much reason of the
burden of having to pay coachmen and guards in Scotland ; each of the former
still occasionally only drives one stage, and for an average distance of
eleven or twelve miles looks for his sixpence, while the guard expects at
least at the rate of one-half that allowance throughout a long distance ;
but the English fashion has brought the general rule into use, of being
driven forty, fifty, or sixty miles by the same coachman, to whom Is. to 1s.
6d., or 2s., is the customary doucenr. The steamer fares, especially on the
west coast, fluctuate from occasional opposition. |
