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Grandeur of the Grampian
Mountains, 1.—Various Passes, 2.—Glenmore, 3.—Botany; Rock Crystals,
4.—Geological Features; Loch Avon, 5.—Loch-an-Eilan, 6.—Grand Assemblage of
Mountains and Cataracts around the sources of the Dee, 7.—The Springs or
Wells of Dee; the Garachary, 8.—Ben Mac Dhu, 9.—The Chest of Dee, 10.—Pass
of Minikaig; Pass of Gaick; Catastrophe in 1799; Geology of the Grampians,
11.—Rare Plants, 12.—Cairngorm Stones, 13.
1. THAT portion of the great
range of the Grampian mountains which lies intermediate between the confines
of Strathspey and Badenoch, on the one hand, and Strath Dee and Glen Tilt,
on the other—occupying a width of about twenty-five miles—comprehends at
once the highest altitudes and the greatest mass of highly-elevated
mountain-land, and the most numerous and closely-congregated groups of lofty
mountain-summits in the British dominions, approached only, perhaps, by the
great chains which overhang Loch Africk and Loch Beneveian, Loch Lungard and
Loch Monar—the sources of the Beauly—where, however, they are not so densely
compacted together. Though exhibiting the greatest amount, in any given
compass, of the more sublime features of alpine scenery, yet this district
is little known, except from the report, and that only of late years, of a
comparatively small number of adventurous tourists. The reason is, that
these fastnesses cannot be explored, except by dint of a complete fagging
day of resolute walking, there being no intermediate stage whatever between
Aviemore and Castletown of Braemar, or between the former or Kingussie and
Blair Athole.
2. There are four passes
across this section of the Grampians, besides those through which the public
roads proceed, which require some notice. The first is from Aviemore, by
Glenmore, across the eastern shoulders of the Cairngorms, and by the south
end of Glen Avon to Bracmar; secondly, by a more westerly course through the
skirts of the Rothiemurchus forest, and on the west side of Cairngorm to the
sources of the Dee, between that mountain and Bracriach, and thence along
the west side of Ben Mac Dhui, and the course of the Dee; the third from
Loch Inch, or Inverishie, by Minikaig, into Glen Tilt and Athole; and the
fourth proceeds from Glen Tromie, by the forest of Gaick, into Bruar and
Athole.
None of these routes should
be attempted by the pedestrian without a guide; and each of them will
require, in the passage, the greater part of a long summer's day. The first
two can only be undertaken, either from Castletown in Braemar or from
Aviemore in Strathspey, at both of which places guides may be hired; and the
two last routes, in like manner, must be begun either from Blair Athole,
terminating the same day at Kingussie in Badenoch; or this order may be
reversed. But it should be distinctly borne in mind, that, when once the low
valleys at either end of these journeys are passed, not a single hut or
place of shelter is to be found in the hills, and that none but persons in
robust health, and accustomed to walking, should try these excursions. In
tempestuous weather they should on no account be attempted by any one. The
length of each exceeds thirty miles of hill and dale, which is fully as
toilsome as one-half additional distance on a made road; and as the visitor
must start from one end, and sleep next night at the other, without the
possibility of finding any place of refreshment, we would advise his
carrying provisions with him, and loitering as shortly as possible by the
way.
3. Pursuing the first route,
we cross the Spcy at Inverdruie, near Avicmore, and proceed eastward,
through Glenmore, which, as Dr. Macculloch remarks, "without being
picturesque, is a magnificent scene, from its open basin-like form, rising
at once up the high and unbroken mountains which surround it, from its wide
extent, and from its simple grandeur of character. Everywhere is seen rising
young woods of various ages, promising, when centuries shall have passed
away, to restore to the valley its former honours. But it is the wreck of
the ancient forest which arrests all the attention, and which renders
Glen-more a melancholy—more than a melancholy—a terrific spectacle. Trees of
enormous height, which have escaped alike the axe and the tempest, are still
standing, stripped by the winds even of their bark, and, like gigantic
skeletons, throwing far and wide their white and bleached bones to the
storms and rains of heaven; while others, broken by the violence of the
gales, lift their split and fractured trunks in a thousand shapes of
resistance and of destruction, or still display some knotted and tortuous
branches, stretched out in sturdy and fantastic forms of defiance to the
whirlwind and the winter. It is the naked skeleton bIowing in the winds, the
gigantic bones of the forest still erect, the speaking records of former
life, and of strength still unsubdued, vigorous even in death, which renders
Glen-more one enormous charnel-house." The wood in this valley was sold to
the York Buildings Company for £10,000; and it is said their profits
exceeded £70,000.
4. Passing the region of the
forests, the stranger finds himself about a third of the way up the Grampian
slopes, which are thence only sparingly covered with heather, and whortic,
and cranberries; and as he approaches the summit, even these disappear, and
the naked undecomposed granite presents itself, the crevices of which are
but occasionally tinged with the varied colours of small alpine lichens and
mosses, more prevalent than which, however, the botanist will descry the
little phaenogamous beauties of Statice Armeria and Silene acaulis.
The ascent from the west end
of Glenmore to the top of Cairngorm is easy, with little variety from
protruding rocks, or watercourses. "One smooth and undulating surface of
granite mountain, without the variety of bold precipice or deep ravine,
follows another, so far and so wide, that, when other objects appear, they
are beyond the reach and powers of the eye, and produce no effect."
To the botanist this mountain
is almost a blank, as regards phoenogamous plants; and, indeed, the
productions on it and the neighbouring chain of mountains present a greater
resemblance to the Flora of the Lapland Alps, than those of any other
elevations in Britain. Lichen nivalis is, doubtless, the most
striking plant on Cairngorm, but it has not been met with in fructification;
while some other species of the same genus (Cetraria), found nowhere else in
fruit, often present themselves here in that state. hycopodium annotinium
and Azalea procumbens are exceedingly abundant, and Luzula armata,
associated with L. spicata, are almost the only phuenogamous plants to be
met with on the bare summit.
5. The central nucleus of
these mountains, as is well known, is composed of granite, intermixed with
and resting on which are a series of slaty and stratified rocks (abounding
with beds of primitive limestone), the junctions and relations of which,
however, are not so well known or so extensively displayed in the sections
on the north side of the Grampians as in the opposite quarter of the
country.
From the top or shoulder of
Cairngorm the descent is easy to Loch Avon, or A'an, a scene almost
unrivalled even in Switzerland, yet one which nature seems nearly to have
buried beyond human resort; as, though accessible also from Braemar, the
distance from any habitation is on that side likewise so great, that it is
only possible to visit it and return within the compass of a long summer
day, and at the expense of a good deal of fatigue. In Braemar a mountain
exists which is called the Eastern or Lesser Cairngorm; and the tourist will
have to take care that he be not conducted to it, instead of to the true and
higher mountain, which is situated in Inverness-shire.
Having conducted the
traveller as far as Loch Avon, we refer him to a brief description of the
route between it and Braemar in the preceding branch, merely noticing that
it lies up Glen-dhu-lochan, on the east side of Ben-na-main, and across into
Glen Dear;, and the continuation of it Glen Lui, to the Linn of Dee.
6. Proceeding now from the
ferry at Rothiemurchus, through the Rothiemurchus woods in a south-easterly
direction, we ascend towards Ben Mac Dhui and the Dee; but on the way, or
rather on some different day, for time is precious en route for Braemar, we
must not omit to visit Loch-an-Eilan.
Loch-an-Eilan is only about
two miles distant from the Spey; and the road to it winds round the
beautiful birch-clad bill, the Ord Bain, which rises from its western shore;
but the lake, its castle, and its woods, recal to the imagination rather the
things we read of in the novels of the Otranto school than a scene of real
life. "In some parts of it, the rocky precipices rise immediately from the
deep water, crowned with the dark woods that fling a profound shadow over
it; in others, the solid masses of the trees advance to its edge; while
elsewhere open green shores, or low rocky points, or gravelly beaches, are
seen: the scattered groups or single trees, which, springing from some bank,
wash their roots in the waves that curl against them, adding to the general
variety of this wild and singular scene.
"This lake is much
embellished by an ancient castle stand-in; on an island within it, and even
yet entire, though roofless. As a Highland castle, it is of considerable
dimensions; and, the island being scarcely larger than its foundations, it
appears, in some places, to rise immediately out of the water. Its ancient
celebrity is considerable, since it was one of the strongholds of the
Cumings, the particular individual whose name is attached to it being the
ferocious personage known by the name of the Wolf of Badenoch. It has passed
now to a tenant not more ferocious, who is a fit emblem and representative
of the red-handed Highland chief: the eagle has built his eyrie on the
walls."—(Dr. Macculloch.)
7. After traversing for about
ten miles along the course of the Alt Dhui, the shelving slopes on the north
and west of Cairngorm, of the vast base on which rest the ample
superincumbent masses of Cairngorm, Ben Mac Dhui, and Braeriach; and the
adjoining Grampian mountains, the summit is attained of a highly elevated
pass, where the water shears in the opposite direction from that up which we
have been toiling. Here we may define the relative position of the more
distinctive mountain masses. We are now at the north-west of Ben Mac Dhui,
to the north-east of which lies Cairngorm, and south from it Ben-na-Main and
the lesser Cairngorm—these towering Alps encircling the secluded waters of
Loch Aven. A great defile runs along the western side of Ben Mac Dhui,
through which the infant waters of the Dee make their way. On the west side
stretches Braeriach, Cairntoul, and Ben-na-Vrochan. All these mountains
range about 4000, several to nearly 4300 feet, while Ben Mac Dhui is
computed to rise as high as 4390 feet above the level of the sea; and, if
so, of the precision of which measurement, the only, if any room for doubt,
may rest in its inland position—exceeding by 20 feet the height of Ben
Nevis. All the eastern and north-eastern faces of these, as of most of our
mountains, are precipitous, while the western sides present accessible
slopes. The wall, as it is called, of the Braeriach, flanking the summit
level of Glendee, is a stupendous lengthened range of precipice, computed to
be about 2000 feet of perpendicular height. This gigantic cliff forms a very
arresting feature of the scenery. Cairntoul projects its huge bare mass in
front of the ridge of the Braeriach, intercepting the sunbeams from the wild
ravine or corry which descends from this vast barrier. The granite mountains
around are remarkable for the teeming springs of water which gush up near
the very summits of the mountains. These discharge numberless torrents down
the mountain sides, and line the upper reaches of Glendee with a series of
cataracts, nowhere in this country matched in number and altitude. And the
impending crags and expanded acclivities which stretch around, surpass in
extent and continuity most other scenes of the kind.
8. It is matter of dispute
whether one of the streams pouring down the flank of Ben Mac Dhui, or
another called the Garachary, which comes foaming down the curry between the
Braeriach and Cairntoul, is to be regarded as the true parent Dee. The first
buries itself, in its descent, amid granitic masses which strew the hill
side—to reappear in a series of reservoirs of the most remarkable character,
called the "Springs or Wells of the Dee," embedded in structures of nature's
workmanship—exhibiting a strange degree of regularity. Near the top of the
pass, the bottom of the ravine is occupied by a sue-cession of terraces of
broken fragments of stone, presenting, in their downward fronts, so many
ledges of masonry one above the other. On each terrace—five in number—there
is a deep well of the most limpid water, of varying capacity ; the lowest of
very considerable dimensions. At the bottom of all, issues a stream of no
mean volume, even thus early. The vegetation around is stunted and scanty,
and the rock-work of the wells is almost destitute of soil. For about twelve
miles from this point, to near about where it deflects to the cast, the Dee
hurries its waters over a broken rocky bed, in rapids and cascades, and
quieter intervals, and formidable-looking linnsreceiving constant
accessories from the adjoining hills. The first main tributary is the
Garachary, which joins it from the west, about three miles below the
springs. It issues from a well near the topmost summit of Braeriach, and has
some length of course at this high elevation before it precipitates itself
down along the edge of the stupendous wall—its progress marked by a
permanent scam of snow-white purity. It joins the Dee at the foot of
Cairntoul. Expanded, upreared screens of naked rock of the most imposing
altitude are drawn around. And this scene of desolation is made doubly
impressive by the reflection how utterly secluded it is—there being no
dwelling of any kind, however mean, for many miles in all directions.
Next to the Garachary, the
Dee is enlarged in volume by the Geusachan, which, on the further side of
Cairntoul, descends from Ben-na-Vrochan and an adjoining mountain,
accomplishing near its origin one sheer slide of 1000 feet.
9. Ben Mac Dhui is easy of
ascent from the upper part of Glen Dee, and the scene from the summit
probably surpasses that from any other of our celebrated mountains. The sea
can be descried on three sides. To the south and west the expanse of
mountain heaps is prodigious—its great extent indicated by such remote
points as Ben Lawers, Ben Lomond, Ben Cruachan, and Ben Nevis. Looking
north, the Moray, Nairn, and Banffshire hills, with those of the contiguous
section of Inverness-shire, subside into very moderate proportions, while
intermediate lies the smiling valley of the Spey ; and beyond, the blue
waters of the .Moray Firth, girdled by the distant hills of Ross and
Sutherlandshires. While on the east, prone at our feet, lie the headlong and
stupendous precipices which encompass Loch Aven. The direct descent to Loch
Aven from Ben Mac Dhui is almost impracticable, and besides the loss of time
and over-exertion would render it impossible to reach any better
resting-place than the shelter-stone, a large fragment of rock on its banks,
under which a night bivouac has occasionally been made. Should the tourist
incline, however, to vary his route, he may descend into Glen-Lui-ben and
Glen Lui, and reach Strath Dee, below the Linn of Dee, instead of regaining
Glen Dee, and following the course of the river.
10. As the Dee descends, the
mountains diminish, and the glen widens out. Near the bend of the river the
Geldie joins it also from the west, about nine miles from Castletown of
Braemar. Some distance above the junction, the waters of the Dee encounter a
large rock, in which they have excavated two chambers—the lower considerably
the largest, and the waterway in both at a considerable depth. Into the
first, the access is by a very confined passage, and from either chamber the
contents, contracting overflow—from the lowest in a fall of some height.
These excavations are called "The Chest of the Dee." The "Linn of Dee,"
where its waters are pent up in an extremely narrow duct of some length,
occurs half a dozen miles above the Castletown, and will, with this section
of Strathdee, be found described in the preceding branch.
11. Of the other two
sequestered routes above mentioned, the first commences from the Ferry of
Insh (five miles west from Aviemore), and proceeds through Glen Feshie and
Minikaig, and through Glen Tilt to Athole. It is shorter than the public
road by at least twenty miles, and its elevation is not so great as might be
expected.
On the third route the
traveller should start from Kina ssie early in the morning. Its course lies
through the Forest of Gaick, and by the Water of Bruar, and it ascends to a
greater elevation, and is more dangerous, than the one just alluded to. To
the pedestrian it does not shorten the road from Aviemore to Perth or
Dunkeld so considerably as Minikaig; and it is exceedingly unsafe in stormy
weather, from the drifting of the snow, which not only obscures the path,
but fills up the passes and openings through which he has to proceed. Some
years ago, a party of soldiers were nearly lost on this route; and some of
them are said never to have recovered the cold and fatigue they endured. The
hardy inhabitants of the country often attempt to cross the mountains in
this direction, and not unfrequently perish on the way. The most awful
occurrence, however, known to have taken place in the Forest of Gaick
happened on New Year's Day 1799. A party of huntsmen, headed by a gentleman
of the name of Macpherson, proceeded the previous night to a hut or bothie
in the hill, that they might be out early in the morning in quest of the
(leer. A tremendous thunder-storm, accompanied with wind and snow, came on,
and by the morning the hut was destroyed, the stones scattered about, and
every inmate of it perished ; not one having survived to explain the
catastrophe. Some have imagined that the accident was occasioned by an
avalanche of snow from the adjoining height ; others, that electricity was
the cause; and, of course, the country people have their tales and surmises
of a blacker and more fearful character. The guns of the party were found
twisted, most probably from the effects of lightnin; ; but the men
themselves seem to have been suffocated in bed, for only one of the bodies
was found a little way beyond the spot on which the hut stood.
12. Before closing this
notice of the Grampian mountains, it seems proper that we describe a little
more particularly their structure. They are in general remarkable for their
extreme sterility and the desolate aspect which they present. The sum-snits
are rounded, sometimes nearly flat, to a great extent, and entirely covered
by disintegrating blocks of stone, together with grit and sand, except in a
few places, where the granite rocks present the singular appearance of large
tabular protruding pinnacles, having their blocks seemingly arranged in
regular strata. Most of the mountains exhibit perpendicular precipices near
the summit, which generally assume a semicircular form, constituting the
hollows called corries, and having a lake at their base. In decomposing, the
granite assumes either a red or whitish colour, from the character of its
constituent felspar; while on the large scale it splits into masses of a
tabular form, the concentric or globular arrangement being rare. Except near
the base of the precipices, it is difficult to determine whether the blocks
and stones which cover these mountains are partially disintegrated and
decomposed fragments of the constituent masses, or of diluvial or other
origin. On the summits there are extensive tracts of grit and sand, among
which fragments occur but sparingly. In other places the fragments are
intermixed with grit and sand; and in others huge piles of broken tabular
masses appear, with very little grit or sand in their intervals. In the open
glens there are immense deposits of diluviuin or alluvium; hillocks of from
ten to sixty or eighty feet occur abundantly, which are generally of an
oblong form, but rarely present any appearance from which the direction of
the currents that had formed them can be decidedly inferred, though there
can be no doubt that their constituent particles were derived from the
adjoining mountains.
13. We subjoin, in the note
below, the names of some of the rarer and more characteristic plants of this
mountain district; and we have only to add, that it has also long been
distinguished for its beautiful rock crystals (of a dark and of a light
brown or yellow colour), called Cairngorrn stones, which are now more
carefully sought for in the debris than formerly, and which of late have
been discovered in fine six-sided prisms, terminated by six-sided pyramids,
extending from one inch to six or eight inches in length, and of which
specimens have lately been found weighing ten pounds of solid crystal.
Topaz, beryl, amethyst, and garnet, also occur in these mountains. |
