Oyvind Gulbrandsen was a fine Norwegian
naval architect I was privileged to know and to work with in Italy,
Thailand, Indonesia, and the Philippines. He was a practical small boat
designer who could also build and operate these vessels. Before he would
dare to suggest any improvements or modifications to a traditional boat,
he would go to sea with the fishers and see how the boat handled, and
how the fishermen sailed the vessel and operated the fishing gear. But
what impressed me most about Oyvind was his aesthetic side, - his eye
for a beautiful boat. For there is something about the design of a fine
seaworthy vessel, whether a yacht, schooner, steam drifter, motor
trawler, ring net boat, or canoe; - something that strikes the trained
eye of a designer or navigator, as truly graceful and seaworthy. You
just know by looking at its lines that the vessel will perform well at
sea. The same is true of gliders and propeller driven aircraft. The old
book of Proverbs mentions a number of wonders that had a mystical side
to them which was beyond Solomon’s wisdom or power to explain. Two that
he mentions are, ‘the way of an eagle in the air’, and, ‘the
way of a ship in the sea’.
Oyvind and I were wandering along the
mangrove covered beaches of north Java with their covering of fine black
volcanic sand, and stopping occasionally to examine the chompring
prahu canoes of the area. Oyvind trained his architect’s eye on the
teakwood planked boats, from stem to stern. They were brightly painted,
and had high carved prows and stern posts. Their cotton sails were laced
to bamboo spars that were swung up at an angle, from a short post set in
one of the forward thwarts. Their hulls appeared to be precise replicas
of Viking ships, - beamy planked boats, double ended, and with good
sheer fore and aft, that increased their displacement when loaded, and
improved their stability as they rolled gently in a swell. “Tayvid”,
explained my Scandinavian friend in his lovely Norse accent, - “that
is bee-yootiful ! You simply cannot improve upon that as a design for a
sailing canoe in this region. It is excellent; - the result of centuries
of use and development.”
I gladly echoed Oyvind’s sentiments having
been brought up in a community steeped in nautical traditions. As boys
we made and sailed small boats in the rocky coastal pools, and as we
grew older we debated like old men, the relative merits of each new boat
that entered the local fleet. Under our elders supervision we gained
some experience handling and rowing the wooden lifeboats that were
standard on most of the fishing boats until the late 1950’s. We had also
enjoyed the model making pursuits of young teenagers in the post war
years, putting together paper-covered balsa replicas of WW2 planes and
gliders, and constructing wooden-hulled sailboats. Aircraft that fly
well, have to look good, - their aerodynamic shapes similar to the fine
underwater lines of the hull of seaworthy or sea-kindly boats.
Scotland’s east coast had more than ten good
builders of wooden boats in the 1950’s and 60’s. There were three Buckie
yards, - Herd and MacKenzie, Jones, and Thomson’s (no relation). Then
there were yards at Lossiemouth, MacDuff, Sandhaven, and Peterhead.
South of Aberdeen boats were built at Arbroath, St. Monans, and Eyemouth.
Each had their own particular style which we could tell as easily as we
could recognise cars or aircraft. Yet all the Scots boat builders
followed the traditional design of straight stem, cruiser stern, cabin,
engine, and wheelhouse aft, and fish hold amidships. That suited the
trawlers and seiners, but ring net boats were arranged differently with
cabin forward, engine and wheelhouse aft, and fish hold midships. Beamy
and seaworthy, few Scots boats would ever ship green water over the side
or stern. Most of the boats performed equally well heading into a sea or
running before it.
My father’s boat, (the third of three he
skippered), was built at Tyrrell’s yard in Arklow, Ireland. Scots boats
were mostly made of larch and oak, but the Kincora was
constructed of pitch pine. All of Tyrrell’s boats had yacht type hulls.
They were less beamy than Scottish boats, and had beautiful fine stems
that cut the water gently, and added a touch of speed. On the negative
side, they tended to be ‘wet’, i.e. to ship a lot of spray, and to roll
violently when lying broadsides or towing across the wind. But then few
fishing boats of that size are much different in this respect. Tyrrell’s
boats were not good ‘carriers’, - they tended to go down by the head
when loaded with fish. The best ‘carrying boats’ were in fact the little
50 foot ring net boats which could hold up to 200 crans (800 x 7 stone
baskets or approx. 36 tonnes) of herring without losing their trim. I
have seen these boats come into the harbour with their decks almost
awash, they were so laden with fish.
All over the world we are in danger today of
losing those marvellous boat-building skills that put together North Sea
seiner-trawlers and ring-netters, French tunny boats, Portuguese,
Canadian, and American schooners, Arab dhows and houris, Japanese long
liners, Greek sardine seiners, Philippine bancas, and Indonesian sailing
canoes. Perhaps the poorer and less developed lands will continue
traditional skills longer, but in my own country the boat builders I
knew have all retired, and there few apprentices taking their place. The
lobster boats of Maine and Nova Scotia may also continue to be built, as
the fishery they serve has been able to maintain greater stability than
those for demersal fish and herring. The skill of the boat builder was
eloquently described by the poet Longfellow :
Build me straight, O worthy Master,
Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel,
That shall laugh at all disaster,
And with wave and whirlwind wrestle.
Day by day the vessel grew,
With timbers fastened strong and true,
Stemson and keelson and sternson knee,
Till, framed with perfect symmetry,
A skeleton ship rose up to view.
And around the bows and along the side
The heavy hammers and mallets plied …
The demand for bigger and more powerful
boats led most of our yards to move over to steel construction. The
spread of stern trawling with its need for more space on the after deck,
led to the replacement of cruiser-spoon sterns with square transoms. To
this day I find them ugly and too utilitarian. The Scots preference for
accommodation and wheelhouse aft was ignored at times in favour of
wheelhouse and accommodation forward designs. While these may suit
larger ships, they can be very uncomfortable for the crew on boats of
less than 90 feet. But marine authorities often embraced the changes,
assuming that the new designs and layouts were ‘modern’, and therefore
to be promoted. One of my cousins tried for years to get WFA approval
for a new boat he was to build in Scotland. They refused his application
on the grounds that he just wanted another ‘traditional’ boat. If he
would only agree to a boat of ‘modern’ design (meaning with square
transom stern and wheelhouse forward), they hinted that his application
would be approved. But Alex refused to budge, and eventually had the
vessel of his choice built to his specifications, at the boatyard in
Campbeltown, Argyll.
Overall, the British White Fish Authority
had an extremely poor record in vessel design. It was an area they
should have stayed out of, there being plenty competent fishing boat
naval architects in the country. But no, like any bureaucratic
organisation that acquires some power, it took it upon itself to design
and advise on vessel types. The power they wielded stemmed from the
assistance they were authorised to give in the form of loans (and
sometimes grants) towards the cost of a new boat. The results were
derisory at times. Several WFA designed boats sank, and few remained
long in service. Some designs they approved of without proper stability
tests, were lost with all hands at sea. Arguments continue to this day
over who or what was to blame in several of those cases. Whatever the
real causes, the truth is that when the changes came in fishing boat
size, power and design, more boats and more men were lost at sea than in
the years before when the vessels were smaller, simpler, and less
well-equipped.
The organisation also made similar poor
decisions on boat design in its development work. Personally I do not
approve of a government agency, supported by taxpayers money, also
engaging in private sector work in competition with professional firms.
But the WFA did just that and attempted to get into the overseas
fisheries consultancy field. It was awarded contracts in places like
Saudi Arabia and Indonesia. The Saudi contract was to improve fish
supplies and fish quality in that country, but the Arab government
complained after 3 years of the consultancy all they had to show were
‘pieces of paper’, instead of fish in their markets.
In West Sumatra, Indonesia, the WFA were
given the task of designing a forty boat fleet to prosecute the offshore
waters for tuna. The local fishers used trolling lines to capture the
fish outside of the Mentawai islands. The long distances and light
catches meant that they needed a low-cost, easily propelled, economical
boat to operate profitably. So what kind of vessel did the WFA design ?
Sadly, it was a typical North Sea trawler, - heavily built, beamy, slow,
needing a powerful engine to drive it, and large fuel tanks to contain
sufficient diesel oil for the long voyages. In short the new boats were
expensive to buy and operate, and too heavy and slow for the trolling
line operation. But the boats were built despite protests by the fishers
who were not listened to. So, forty new expensive boats lay rotting
against the pier because no sensible fisherman would buy one – even on
generous loan terms, and another expensive aid project foundered on the
rocks of stupidity and stubbornness.
However, in case any think I am too critical
of my own country’s bureaucratic and technical failures, perhaps I had
should mention some nautical blunders in other parts of the world. In
Northern Rhodesia, later to become the independent state of Zambia, the
fishermen of newly formed Lake Kariba, required fishing boats to replace
their dugout canoes which were suitable only for shallow swamps and
sheltered river waters. We had a fine naval architect and boat builder
in Dick Heath of Littlehampton in Surrey where he had worked on a
variety of craft for the English Channel, including yachts and fishing
boats. After considering the needs of the huge lake fishery which could
face choppy weather at times when the prevailing winds blew up and down
the lake, he opted for an Irish design. It was not his first choice,
that being the American dory as used on the Grand Banks by U.S.,
Canadian, and Portuguese fishers. But the dory required some familiarity
and skill for its use, and the Africans felt it was too unstable for
them. So Dick adapted a west Irish boat form for the Zambesi valley
lake. He turned to the “curragh”, - a light seaworthy craft made of a
wood frame and tarred canvas skin, that was rowed out into the Atlantic
swells by Aran Islands fishermen hunting for basking sharks which they
caught for their oil.
I had fished alongside these amazing boats
during my early years on the family boat. It was the sheer or angle of
the hull at its high stem and along its length, that interested Dick.
The lake fishermen needed a boat that was easy to paddle, or to power by
a small outboard, and that could carry and adequate number of men and
nets, and weight of fish catch. So he designed a 24 foot clinker built
canoe incorporating the lines of the curragh, and had it constructed of
iroko wood with copper nails and galvanised bolts. The boat was an
instant success and within months was being built and used all over the
country. The Batonga fishers nick-named it the “banana” boat because of
its shape. I have handled these boats in the fairly rough waters of the
open lake, and found they performed superbly. The fishermen soon learned
how to set and haul gill nets over the side, since it had a very narrow
transom, and when they were fortunate to have a 5 hp outboard motor,
they could travel to and from the grounds at remarkable speed.
But, not to be out-done, the Provincial
Administration thought they also would design a boat and have it mass
produced. They had a metal box manufacturer construct little dinghies
which looked like matchboxes with a pointed end. They were built of
steel and were heavy, clumsy and difficult to paddle or power. Some sank
when choppy waves spilled over the side and filled the boat. To protect
the fishermen from that, buoyancy tanks were welded fore and aft which
left little room for nets and fish. Then it was found that the steel
corroded and the bottoms of the metal boats rusted out in 2 years which
gave the fishermen a problem since they had bought the boats on a 3 year
loan.
To a fisherman, a boat is much more than a
piece of property. It becomes part of his soul, part of his life. Some
boats, it is true, do not live up to expectations and may be discarded
with little regret. But a boat that serves a fisher well for most of his
working life, becomes a thing of affection. Years of struggle against
the elements, season after season of fishing and harvesting, times of
peril and times of pleasure, are all intimately linked to the
fisherman’s boat as he goes through his professional life. That is why
shipwrecks are so sad, - and worse than these are enforced scrapping of
fine vessels which have many years of productive life still in them.
That is what the heartless EC CFP decommissioning scheme did. As
graphically portrayed in the BBC film “Gutted !”, skipper-owners
were obliged to take their beautiful boats to the scrap yard and see
them torn to pieces to satisfy the bureaucrats determination to reduce
fleet size (after they had increased it in the first place). The boats
could have served abroad and some skippers wanted to gift them to poor
countries. But that was not allowed.
I was personally involved in two attempts by
Scots skippers to have their boats complete their useful life rather
than go to the scrap yard. Under EC MAGP rules (multi-annual guidance
programme which governed vessel decommissioning), they had little option
but to see their vessels destroyed to conform to the fleet reduction
recommendations. A group of west coast and island fishermen wondered if
it might be possible to sell their boats at reasonable prices to
developing country fisheries. Some of the Scots skippers and crews had
also offered to deliver the boats and to remain for a period assisting
the new African owners to operate the boats and market the catches. I
suggested there might be some possibilities in southern Africa, and was
sent there for 2 weeks by the HIDB (IHighlands and Islands Development
Board), - a regional part of Scottish Enterprise, the government
development agency. I travelled to Namibia first, to Walvis Bay and
Luderitz, and then from there south to Cape Town and the fishing ports
north of the Cape, on the western or Atlantic coast.
At each of the locations I discussed the
possibilities of purchasing Scottish boats in working condition, at very
reasonable prices, and to get some technical assistance from the former
owners. The idea appealed to a number of fishermen’s cooperatives in
Cape Province, and to several small companies in Namibia. In both cases,
following changes of government, fish quotas were available to ‘black’
and ‘coloured’ fishermen who had been largely excluded during the
apartheid years.
So I returned to Inverness to report that I
had found 36 prospective buyers who wanted Scots creel boats, prawn
trawlers, ring netters, white fish trawlers, one purse seiner, and one
hake freezer trawler. Each of these types were available for sale in
Scotland at the time. Imagine my surprise when the HIDB later informed
me that the UK government had told them to bury the report. I enquired
repeatedly for some explanation, and the nearest thing I got to one was
the silly remark, “If we allow our men to sell their boats to Africa,
what is there to stop the Africans from selling them back to Scotland” !
(How that could possibly happen when the boats would no longer carry
a UK fishing license, and neither party was interested in a reverse
trade in vessels, the nameless bureaucrat failed to inform us). So 36
African fishers were left without the boats they needed to pursue their
professions in the new South Africa, and 36 fine Scottish boats were
decommissioned and sent to the scrap-yards.
My second attempt to have the third world
benefit from the use of a Scottish boat happened just after the dreadful
tsunami disaster of December 26 2003. I was called to a meeting in
London early in 2004 to discuss what help the government and fishery
sector of the UK might be able to mount quickly to assist the devastated
fishing communities of Banda Aceh, Sri Lanka, and Thailand. Fishing
industry representatives from Scotland, Northern Ireland, Wales and
England, attended the meeting. All were eager to do what they could to
help, but the government reaction from DEFRA and DFID was like a huge
wet blanket. One Scots skipper offered to donate his steel refrigerated
stern trawler for use as a relief supply vessel in Banda Aceh or Sri
Lanka. The other Scots fishers offered to fill the boat with ropes,
buoys, netting, twine and floats from which the Asian fishers could
construct their own types of nets and traps. They would fly a crew in
from the stricken areas, and help them sail the boat out, and to train
them on the way on the operation and maintenance of the machinery and
electronics.
But the British government said “No”.
The boat in question was one of those scheduled to be scrapped under the
EC MAGP programme (though it was in splendid condition and could have
served for another 25 years). But the government would rather see it go
to a scrap-yard than be offered to the stricken coasts of SE Asia. When
I later informed the fishery authorities in the three countries
concerned, they were appalled that the UK government had not even
consulted them on the possibility. British officials said publicly that
such fishing boats were inappropriate for the area, - knowing full well
it was offered, not for fishing operations, but for delivering supplies
to the needy areas, and to take fish catches from there to the markets
since the roads and bridges had been made impassable. The Chairman of
the Scottish Pelagic Fishermens Association, Alex West, told me
personally that his member boats would gladly donate the delivery funds,
and ordinary people were then giving millions for tsunami aid through
the government. Yet officials admitted to me they were afraid some of
the expenses of sending a boat out (like insurance costs) might have to
be met by the UK treasury!
The UK government gave £64 million for
tsunami relief, and pledged some additional funds, but in some cases the
writer had personal knowledge of, handled the money with remarkable
indifference to the need, and to the sacrificial giving by ordinary
people in the UK. In addition to what the public gave through churches
and directly to groups like Red Cross and Tear Fund, ordinary people
donated £390 million to help the distressed victims. This money was
distributed by the Disasters Emergency Committee, an umbrella
organisation for British charities. Working through 12 of the larger UK
charities concerned with overseas relief, the DEC was able to deliver
help to 1.3 million households over a three year period, mainly in
Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and India.
One can but imagine the emotions of the
skipper of the Veracious (truthful), as he sailed his vessel
across the North Sea to the breakers yard in Denmark, when he knew that
it could have performed humanitarian and food relief service to the
tsunami stricken coasts, but for the obstinacy of the British government
and the EC Fisheries Directorate. There was absolutely no financial
advantage to himself in the proposed arrangement, - rather it would have
cost him substantially in the gift of gear and equipment he was prepared
to make with the vessel.
The emotional attachment of a fisherman to
his boat was well expressed by a renowned musician and song writer in
Newfoundland, Otto Kelland, who I worked alongside in
the College of Fisheries there. The college had hired him for his skills
in making model boats, but he was more renowned for his musical talents.
All who know Newfoundland will be aware of its rich heritage of sea
shanties and folk songs, mostly with an Irish lilt to them. Otto’s
finest production was Cape St. Mary’s, written in 1945.
The music which is truly moving, you will have to locate elsewhere, but
I cannot resist the temptation to include a few verses here. The last
line of each verse is repeated in the song.
Take me back to my
western boat, let me fish off Cape St. Mary’s
Where the hag-downs sail, and the fog-horns wail,
With my friends the Browns and the Cleary’s,
Let me fish off Cape St. Mary’s.
Let me feel my dory lift, to the
broad Atlantic combers
Where the tide rips swirl and wild ducks whirl.
Where old Neptune calls the numbers
‘Neath the broad Atlantic combers.
Let me sail up Golden Bay, with my
oilskins all astreamin’
From the thunder squall when I hauled my trawl
And my old Cape Anne a-gleamin’,
And my oilskins all a-streamin’.
Let me view that
rugged shore, where the beach is all a-glisten
With the capelin spawn, where from dusk to dawn,
You bait your trawl and listen,
To the undertow a-hissin’.
Take me back to
that snug green cove, where the seas rolls up their thunder,
There let me rest in the earth’s cool breast
Where the stars shine out their wonder
And the seas rolls up their thunder.
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