TRAPPING THE ONLY EFFECTUAL WAY TO DESTROY VERMIN.
I HAVE put together the following directions for the
trapping of vermin, in order that gentlemen may judge of the merits of their
keepers in this respect; being well aware how few have anything like a
perfect knowledge of this most necessary part of their business. No moors or
manors can abound with game unless the vermin are killed off; and if the
traps are not set with much skill, and the places for planting them for the
different kinds of vermin selected with great judgment, more harm than good
is done, as few are caught and the rest put on their guard, and thus
rendered more cunning and difficult to be trapped afterwards.
A gentleman should first ascertain if his keeper can
perform the mere manual act of setting a trap. This must be done by cutting
a shape for it with a mole-spade in the turf, thinly sprinkling the plate
with earth, and then a top covering precisely the same as the ground: when
set, it should be neither higher nor lower. After having satisfied himself
of the neatness of the setting, the gentleman may spring the trap, and if it
closes clear of grass or leaves, he may rest satisfied that his keeper knows
the A B C of vermin-killing. If, on the contrary, a quantity of the top
dressing is caught between the jaws of the trap, the keeper is not fit to
set for vermin, and must be made thoroughly master of this first requisite
before he attempts to do so.
I shall now mention the different kinds of four-footed
and then winged vermin, giving minute instructions how each may be most
readily trapped. Foxes are the most cunning, and consequently most difficult
to be taken. The best time to set for them is from the beginning of January
- when the males follow the females-till March. Their haunts may then often
be discovered by their wild peculiar bark. Any clear open space near them,
with a hollow in the middle, is the place to plant traps. The hollow is
necessary, as the fox always likes to be out of sight when he is eating. The
bait is a piece of hare, rabbit, or the entrails of any animal, covered over
slightly with earth; and half-a-dozen traps are set round with the utmost
care. Fewer will not do, as the fox might escape between. The bait is
covered over in order to make Reynard suppose that another fox or dog may
have buried it there. Some drag it along the ground for a considerable
distance on either side, after first rubbing it on the soles of their shoes,
and letting fall little pieces of cheese at intervals : this can do no harm,
but I think as little good.
The circle of twigs is also a very good way of trapping
foxes all the year. It should be made larger than for martins or cats, in
order to contain more bait-this should be added to without being removed
when it taints, as the greater the scent the better the chance. Traps
set for foxes should never be made fast, or they are apt to knaw the leg
off: the best plan is to tie two or three together; for if the fox can drag
them, however great the difficulty, he will not attempt the desperate remedy
of amputating his leg. When they have litters, the old ones may be
taken; but it requires great judgment to select the spot they would be most
likely to walk over in going to and from their young : a first-rate trapper,
however, will generally secure one or both. It is the more difficult, as the
traps must be set at some distance, or the young ones would be apt to
stumble into them. As only single traps are set, they should be tied to a
stone just large enough for the fox to drag with some trouble. The keeper
should always sprinkle a little water over the top covering of the trap to
take off the scent of his fingers.
I do not give publicity to these modes of destroying
foxes, with any design to their being followed in the Lowlands, where the
gentlemen of the " View halloo!" would give me small thanks. I only write
for the preservation of the Highland game and lambs ; and am sure that if my
plan was vigorously followed up, we should not be infested with half so many
foxes as we are, " fox hunter" and all ! This, I believe it never will be,
the fun of a Highland fox-hunt being so popular among the farmers as to
overbalance the merits of any other system requiring trouble, dexterity, and
patience. [I lately saw in the newspapers a plan for extirpating foxes in
the Highlands. Each hill farmer was to keep a couple of fox-hounds, a good
greyhound, besides terriers. When occasion offered, they were to join packs,
and collect the best shots (alias, the greatest poachers) in the
neighbourhood. I can only say, without in the least impugning the motives or
honesty of intention of the projector, that if the Highland proprietors
suffer a gang of this kind to take the hill at pleasure, they will soon
hardly have a head of game on their estates. As to allowing farmers to keep
greyhounds, terriers, &c., no gentleman who sets any value on his grouse or
hares would ever think of it.]
The otter, although harmless on the moor, is sufficiently
mischievous in the loch to deserve honourable mention here. On the banks of
the lochs and rivers which he frequents, he has always a fane to which he
resorts once a day ; this is either a stone or root of a tree, but if
neither of these are at hand, he scrapes up the sand or gravel into a small
mound. It is easy to know his marks, as his dung is full of fish-bones.
Traps should be set all round, a twenty-feet cord tied to each, with a cork
or piece of wood attached ; the traps never to be fastened, otherwise the
otter may pull out his leg, from its being so smooth, thick, and short. The
moment he is caught, he waddles with the trap to the water, which sinks and
drowns him, the line and float showing where. It is also an excellent plan
to look for the place where he lands, and plant a trap just under water. As
soon as he strikes for ground, he is caught by the fore-feet. This trap
needs no covering but the water, and is never suspected.
Cats, martins, and fowmartes are easily trapped. Plant a
circle of twigs about three yards round, the twigs a foot and a half long
and close to each other, placing the same bait as for a fox in the centre,
but without any covering; leave two openings at opposite sides just large
enough for the trap. You may also set with baits hanging on the stem of a
tree - a few twigs placed on either side to prevent the vermin sneaking in
there, and so carrying off the bait. Box-traps are very good for stoats or
weasels, but as they are generally set in the low grounds, where pole-cats
also abound, I prefer an iron rat-trap with a strong spring; having found
that the fowmarte constantly pushed up the lid of the other, and so escaped.
The rat-trap will hold a pole-cat, and do little or no injury to cattle or
dogs. The bait should be hung upon a twig immediately above, and almost out
of reach of the weasels.
Stoats, and especially weasels, are often seen in great
abundance in summer. They may then be very easily shot, as you have only to
imitate the squeak of a mouse to bring them close to you. I once, when
without a gun, decoyed one so far away from its retreat that I killed it
with my stick. Should the keeper see a weasel, all he has to do is, with as
much speed as possible, to cut a small piece from any of his baits, drag it
along the ground where he last saw the weasel, and hang it on a twig with
his rat-trap under, as before described : if he does not let too long time
elapse, it is sure to be taken. The weasel, like the merlin, is the maximum
of strength, courage, and activity, in the minimum of size.
The depredations of this little creature would not be so
formidable, if he contented himself with satisfying hunger. But on the
contrary, whenever he has the opportunity, he murders by wholesale like the
martin, rejecting everything but the most dainty morsels. One of these
little rascals, in pursuit of a rabbit or young hare, is the very miniature
of a wolf running down a deer; a panic comes over the victim, which prevents
it from making a determined effort to escape. Instead of distancing its
persecutor by taking a long stretch, the poor terror-stricken rabbit keeps
slowly dotting along, only a short way ahead, and squats down the first
opportunity. The weasel follows on the track, and very soon the rabbit, not
daring to take refuge in its hole, resigns itself to its fate.
I kept a weasel for some time in a wire cage, which soon
became tame enough to pull little pieces of meat from the hand through the
bars. Having a mind to try its pluck, I procured from a rat-catcher an
enormous male rat, at least twice the size of the weasel, and in presence of
several friends turned it into the cage. The rat reared itself on its hind
legs and fought with the utmost desperation, but in less than a quarter of a
minute it lay gasping on its side. There is a curious account of a similar
fight between a large buck-ferret and a rat, in Jesse's Gleanings of Natural
History. But I cannot help thinking, either that the rat must have been the
champion of the genus mus, or the ferret the
most faint-hearted of his species. Once let a ferret, properly entered at
rats, get within a gripe of its foe, and it will seize by scent with
the rapidity of lightning, and never quit its hold while life remains. The
pheasantry-keeper, whom I before mentioned as having taught grouse,
black-game, pheasants, &c. to live together in harmony, tried a similar
experiment with a ferret, a pole-cat, a stoat and a weasel. They were
confined in a large box grated over with iron bars; and the result proved
that a ferret stands upon little ceremony with a much more fierce and active
enemy than a rat. The first victim was the stoat, whose place was supplied
by another, which soon shared the fate of its predecessor. The ferret next
attacked and killed the weasel ; and, to crown all, the polecat, a large
male, nearly double the size of the ferret, a small female, was found dead
one morning, the cage exhibiting the marks of a desperate struggle ; the
fowmarte certainly fought at disadvantage, one of its fore-legs having beer.
injured by a trap. These creatures had lived together for upwards of a
month, after which time the ferret commenced its attacks at intervals of a
few days or a week. I went out daily to see them fed, when the dinner party
exhibited very little kindliness or good breeding.
No traps should be set for running vermin during the warm
weather, as the bait so soon taints ; nor in hard frost, as the traps are
then apt not to spring, or to hold the vermin so slightly that they escape.
WINGED VERMIN.
The hawk tribe, seldom or never taking a bait, are the
most difficult to be trapped of all winged vermin. The only plan with any
chance of success (except at the breeding time) is to place a trap on the
top of a wall, or bare stump of a tree, throwing a dead cat or other carrion
at the foot; the hawks will often alight, to look down at it, and thus be
caught. A hawk, however, will always return to any bird he has killed, even
should scarcely anything be left but the bones. In such a case, immediately
procure a trap, hang the bird directly above, and close to it, or the
hawk may reach over and take it down without touching the trap.
But when they hatch is the time thoroughly to thin them.
The nests should be most carefully searched out, and not disturbed until the
young are more than half fledged. Many shoot the old hen flying off her
eggs, but this is not the way to extirpate the race, as the males of course
escape.
When the young are pretty strong, and able to call loudly
from hunger, take them out of the nest, and make two circles out of sight
of each other. These circles must not be artificial or formed of twigs
stuck in the ground, but any bushes of furze, heather, or rushes, must be
taken advantage of for the purpose. Half of the young ones must be tied in
the one, and half in the other. They must have very short tethers, or they
will waddle into the trap. If this is well executed, you are sure of both
old ones next day.
Buzzards [A curious story of the honey-buzzard was
related to me by a gentleman whose name stands high as a scholar, and who
takes great interest in Natural History. A friend of his was passing a
gravel-pit, when he perceived what he thought was a bird without a head, he
walked silently forward and seized it, and discovered that his prize was a
honey-buzzard, which had thrust its head into a wasp's nest, and was busily
engaged in devouring the larvae. The bird was kept tame for some time
afterwards.] and kites are easily trapped in autumn or winter, as they
readily take a bait. It is not worth while to take much trouble about them,
as they do little mischief to game, unless a young bird that cannot fly, or
small leveret, happen to stumble in their way. I am loath to bring an
accusation against my great favourite the ivy-owl, but truth compels me to
say that he is nearly as injurious to game as the buzzard quite as much so
as the kite. The other owls, viz., the white and the long and short-eared,
may be considered harmless.
Carrion-crows and ravens, or "corbies," take them for all
in all, are perhaps as mischievous as hawks. The best season for trapping
them is in March and April; the circle of twigs to be set in conspicuous
places; the same bait as for foxes, martins, &c., will do, but the best is a
dead lamb, from being so readily seen; and at that season it may be very
easily procured. The numbers taken in this way are astonishing. When they
become cunning, take down the twigs and plant half-a-dozen traps round the
lamb. If there is a puddle of water near, the bait may be placed in the
middle of it, with one or two entrances, upon which traps may be set; the
ravens, &c., are sure to light on these entrances before settling on the
lamb, and the trouble of setting so many traps as would otherwise be
required is thus avoided.
Magpies, jays, &c., all take a bait; but the grand recipe
thoroughly to destroy them, is to find the nests and set the young in
circles.
There are many other ways of killing all these vermin
which I have not thought it worth while to mention, as they cannot stand a
comparison with those I have named. Traps must always be set close to paths
or any other open places near the haunts of the different vermin, with which
it should be the keeper's great endeavour to make himself thoroughly
acquainted. If placed according to these rules, there is not much danger of
either cattle or game getting into any, cept those without circles
for carrion-crows or foxes, which of course require caution. We constantly
see keepers lounging about with their guns in pursuit of vermin ; this ought
not to be. Guns only tempt them to idleness, and are an excellent excuse for
doing nothing. In my opinion no vermin should be shot by a
gamekeeper. But if his master prefer securing the old hens as they fly off
the nest during hatching time, instead of waiting for the young to come out,
no other plan can be adopted. My reasons to the contrary have been given.
I have no doubt that the truly valuable keeper, who takes
an interest in the duties of his situation, will approve of all I have said,
and endeavour to profit by it : the careless, ignorant, and lazy will as
certainly cavil and condemn.
TRAPS.
Great care should be taken in the selection of traps :
none but an approved maker ought to be employed: that the springs are
well tempered and strong is of the utmost consequence. The jaws must
overlap, which is a great preventive to the legs, especially of the
winged vermin, being shred off. To avoid this, some traps are made with
weaker springs and long teeth - these are not to be recommended, for,
although the teeth may counterbalance the weakness of the spring, yet the
vermin are apt to feel them when walking up to the bait, and slink back
without stepping on the plate. It is also much more difficult to set them
neatly. Traps whose springs have been weakened by constant use may be
reserved for flying vermin.
VERMIN TERRIER.
I had almost forgotten to say that every gamekeeper, in
all his trapping and other excursions, should be accompanied by an excellent
vermin terrier. The use of this dog is to challenge vermin in earths, clefts
of rocks, &c., thus making the keeper aware where to plant a trap-to find
out fowmartes in old walls or heaps of stones, where they generally conceal
themselves-and to run those banes of the preserve, the semiwild cats,
into trees, where, with the assistance of his master, they may easily be
killed. A dog will soon become so expert at this last accomplishment that
few cats will be able to escape him. These cats do much more mischief than
real wild ones, as they are impudent enough to carry their depredations into
the midst of the preserve, and close to the most frequented places. The
fowmarte, although an enemy to all game, is generally more calumniated than
he deserves : he is not nearly so injurious as the martin or cat. I have
frequently found his retreat when no other signs of plunder were to be seen
except a few frogs half-eaten. When discovered, the pole-cat has no
activity, and if the wall or heap of stones where he has sheltered himself
can be pulled down or removed, he cannot escape.
Only one and the same terrier should be the
keeper's constant companion, as the dog will soon be "up to" the traps, and
from continual practice become first-rate at this work. He must have a very
good nose, and be perfectly callous to game of all descriptions, but
especially rabbits and hares.
London: Printed by W. CLOWES and SONS, Stamford Sheet.