“Then hey for boot and horse, lad,
And round the world away:
Young blood will have its swing, lad,
And every dog his day.”
- Professor Kingsley.
"He came back with a blood filly which had
put out a curb, lialf-a-crown in his pocket, and his hat stove in.” Such
was the fraternal narrative of the return of a prodigal, who had gone
leather-plating for a season. Head in lieu of the above an Orkney garron,
just four-pence out of a good round sum, and two fat, little note-books
filled to the gorge, and it pretty nearly describes my belongings, when
I reached home in the snow of a February night.
The original idea had been quite royal—“My pleasure in the Scottish
woods three summer months to take.” After working hard among the flocks
and herds of England for four years, I was naturally anxious to be over
the Border, and find new scope for pastorals. I wished to visit past and
present Highland Society winners, in their own stall or fold, and to
gather evidence from those breeders who stand high in its annals, not
only as to the present progress of the stock on which England depends
for such extensive supplies, but also as to the thoughts and labours of
men who have done Scotland good service, and then passed to their rest.
Grouse shooting, deer stalking, and salmon rod-fishing have their own
liege lords of the pen; but still there were many little points
connected with hunting, coursing, racing, and otter hunting, which
seemed calculated to work into a picture of Scottish life, and to vary
the monotony of mere beef and mutton chapters.
Fancy soon faded into reality, and I found that I had set myself a very
serious task. I had to pluck the heart out of three summers, a winter,
and a spring, to travel some 8,000 miles, to sleep away from home about
250 nights, and change my bed 146 times, before I wrote a line. The
Government. Eish Commissioners, coasting jauntily along in the. Salamis,
had quite the best of me, as I worked my own commission on Flesh and
Fowl, through sunshine and shower, with no secretary to cut out the
line. It is very easy to draw up a programme, but not so easy to hold to
it. I often found a new and valuable witness where I least expected to
do so, and had to throw over every plan rather than leave him; but there
was still, in spite of all the hardship and harass, quite a pleasant
soldier-of-fortune feeling in never being sure whether you would turn up
at night by the fireside of “ a golden farmer,” or in a hole in the wall
at a wayside inn. Mere scenery I was obliged to disregard. In fact, it
was of no use to me, unless it served as “setting” for some crack sheep
or cattle; and acting on this purely-practical view of things, I sternly
held my line, regardless of the most glorious combinations of water,
wood, and mountain, for which other tourists were ever turning aside. I
did not even spare a day for the Trossachs, but went “ hot trod” past
the guide post after black faces towards Rob Roy's grave; and my eye
might never have rested on Killiecrankie, if I had not passed through it
on my way to the West Highland herd at Blair Athole.
“Something attempted, something done,
Has earned a night’s repose,”
was my motto, and I enjoyed one between two
and four a.m., in the saddle, during a night ride over the Ord of
Caithness, while the rain poured and the mare grazed. “Cockade”—so
called from persistently wearing her mane on the near side—was not my
companion in the summer of '62. I thought at first that I would walk,
but it was a great mistake. It may answer for a mere light-hearted
saunterer, who wants to take a few sketches, and his ease in his inn,
but not for one who has a responsible task in hand.
Coaches and railways aided me in a measure, but I wearied sadly under a
very heavy knapsack; and such long cross-country walks were not
especially favourable to framing cross-examinations at night. Hence I
soon found that I was merely cutting time to waste, and, after making
the discovery, I pushed my way to the Orkneys, just to get a notion of
the work before me, and asked my good friend Archer Fortescue to buy me
a garron before that day twelve months.
Another summer came round, and there were only two garrons of the size
for sale in Pomona—one at JJ10 and the other at £7 10s. The brown was
just the thing, although it was rather ugly; but the bay looked, when I
met it by chance on the deck of the Vanguard, as if it would have come
in half with me. Condition was everything at such a crisis; and, thanks
to “Mode's Dietary of Corpulence” (which is very nearly the same, but
several years senior to the “Banting system”), I was enabled to take
20lbs. of flesh off my back, and carry it behind me in the much
pleasanter shape of macintosh and luggage. “Just fifteen four the lot"
was the announcement of Provost Bell of Dumfries, when, grasping my pad,
valise, book-bag, and macintosh, I sat in his bacon-scales. Many and
various were- the suggestions about saddles ; but a pad seemed best, on
three grounds: it would fit almost anything if my mare died or was
disabled; it was far more easily carried; and as it folded round the
valise, it sometimes served for a pillow on the heather.
“He'll never get to Lunnun, malster" said Dick, the first whip and
kennel huntsman to the Orkney Harriers, sotto voce, as I took the mare
from his hand in the Orkneys; and 1 was not quite sure on the point
myself. Because we didn’t go with him from Kirkwall to Wick, Captain
Parrot will have it to this hour that we swam the Pentland Frith, just
by way of a relish at starting. The journey, to a man who has a good
horse and can send his luggage on to points, must be a remarkably easy
and pleasant one ; but when you have only a shy half-bred nag quite out
of condition, and have, perforce, to spend so many months roughing it,
in a country to which you are not acclimatized, it becomes no May game.
Still, with fine weather, and a steady practice of getting off to lead
for every third or fourth mile, it is a grand independent way of
travelling. I may say it was positively exhilarating to put the mare’s
head straight across Scotland, during a hard frost, from St. Boswell’s
to Ayr, and cut down the hundred miles at four-and-forty a day; or to
rattle from Athelstane-ford nearly to Kelso over the Lammermoors, with
two shirts and three pair of stockings on, and the cold cutting your
cheeks to the bone.
Being asked “How’s your wardrobe?" &c., as you ride through a town, is
as nothing; but there were sundry disadvantages connected with this
ancient mode of locomotion. It is a weary thing sitting three-quarters
of an hour on a corn-box at night, to be sure that the ostler does you
justice. Every ferryboat in the Highlands was fraught with a fresh
difficulty, and even the master-minds of Meikle Ferry quite thought that
they must have sent me many miles round by Bonar Bridge. Every
railway-train produced a fresh run-off; and I was lucky if I could put
my mare's head in the right direction, so as to get a three-hundred-yard
gallop to the good. It was equally objectionable having to blindfold her
and stuff her ears, and twist her five or six times round, to make her
forget which way you wanted to go, when you found a Lanarkshire or
Ayrshire blast furnace roaring like a lion in the path, late at night,
between yourself and your inn.
Still, all these were very minor troubles in comparison with the
collection and sifting of book materials. Most Highland places seemed to
be spelt in two if not three different ways; and the Gaelic names of
bulls and cows almost drove me to despair, even with the Gaelic
dictionary at my elbow. After all my labours, the most that I can lay
claim to is to have given a general sketch of Scottish farming from that
prize-stock point of view which is being gradually worked out so ably in
all its details, not only by those which make agriculture their
speciality, but by local newspapers as well. I have already profited not
a little by their labours when I compared their notes with my own; and I
have drawn many a hint from the Transactions and Records of the Highland
Society, whose Secretary, Mr. Hall Maxwell, has lent me, both in this
and other respects, most invaluable aid.
To ensure accuracy as far as possible (though I «ee with regret that I
have not given the Marquis of Tweedale credit for the first private
introduction of steam-ploughing to Scotland), I have not sent a sheet to
press without previously submitting it to those most conversant with the
herd or the district, on precisely the same system that all witnesses
before a Parliamentary Committee receive their evidence to revise. As
regards the vein of sporting, which runs more especially through the “
South” part, I may mention that the whole of the coursing was kindly
looked over for me by that eminent ex-judge, Mr. Nightingale, and that
the quoted descriptions of the styles of many of the great winners are
nearly all from his lips. To him and scores of other friends, who have
cheered me on in my labours, and greatly smoothed my way by their hints
and hospitality, I owe a very deep debt of gratitude.
I originally named, and in fact advertised this work as “ Field and
Fold,” and then found that the Religious Tract Society had already
issued a sixpenny publication of that name. Perhaps, however, “Field and
Fern” has a more strictly Scottish application. The division of it into
two independent parts, “North” and “South” of the Frith of Forth, seemed
most natural, and calculated to meet the wishes of such Highland and
Lowland purchasers as might have no interest in each other's stock lore.
As readers never by any chance look at a table of errata, I have adopted
a totally new plan, viz., correcting any little thing that specially
called for it in a foot-note to the text, when I saw an opening in the
course of the work. Six or seven notes of the kind will be found. I may
also add that I have used the name of the parish “Coultar” when I ought
to have said “Culterallers,” that “thin for plantations” in reference to
the Renfrewshire country should be “thin fir plantations,” and that
"Edinburgh town” has crept in for “Edinburgh toun.”
As regards the portraits, I have chosen Mr. Hugh Watson, Professor Dick,
Mr. Nightingale, and the late Duke of Richmond as representatives of the
cattle, horse, greyhound, and sheep interests. Mr. Gourlay Steel], R.S.A.,
has kindly presented me with the head of “Duntroon,” one of those
Highland chieftains of the heather, which will long survive their
sirloins on his canvas. The Master of the Teviotdale sits among his
equally hairy darlings, with his Lord Chancellor “Sandy” at his side;
the scene at Knockhill typifies the Turf, the Leash, and the Chase in
Scotland; and my own mare stands hooked to an out building, and, to all
appearance, quite resigned to her sadly vagrant life.
From first to last, this work has been very nearly three years in hand;
but, spent as much of them has been among such new and varied scenes,
they seem to comprise a lifetime. No one but those who have been
regularly “in the mill" can tell how difficult it is to reconcile and
winnow conflicting opinions given by men of mark on the same point, and
to put some light and shade into the history of flocks and herds, which
has an infallible tendency to degenerate into mere vain-glorious
invoice-lists of males sold and prizes won.
“Men have no faith in high-spun sentiment,
Who put their trust in wedders and in beeves
and no one would “try it on” with them.
Still, on the other hand, it is only just that readers should remember
that an author who is obliged to put such very matter-of-fact objects as
“wedders” and “beeves” in his foreground, instead of human beings, with
their joys, and their sorrows, writes at fearful odds, and has virtually
no scope either for language or fancy. Hence, in racing phrase, he is
clearly “entitled to claim an allowance.”
However, the book is done, after many interruptions from illness and
other causes; and I seemed to breathe quite freely when I signed the
last proof-sheet. I can only trust that it may prove to me the little
scarlet pioneer of a still more extended tour through England, Ireland,
and a portion of the continent; but go where I may, every August will
bring with it the old yearning to be across the Tweed, and all the
pleasant memories of my journey.
“From the Orkneys to Kensington with Punctuality and Despatch.”
Volume North
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