Ask
Scots people living abroad what they miss most about Scotland and
somewhere near the top of every list is always Ayrshire Bacon. I’ve
seen grown men humbled almost in tears while reminiscing about a bacon
sannie, its robust salty flavour mixed with a spot of H.P. is what
Macgastronomic dreams are made off. I’m told that bacon smuggling from
Scotland rivals that of the heroin trade.
Ayrshire bacon is made by the wet cure method much the same as
Wiltshire Bacon a cure developed in the 1840s, the main difference
being the specially fed somewhat fatter Scottish Large White pigs are
completely boned before being immersed in the cure. While we can’t get
Scottish pigs here we are fortunate that Ontario pork is among the
finest in the world. I use boneless pork loin. In Scotland there are
still several large and small companies (Ramsays of Carluke being the
best known) making our bacon in the traditional manner as opposed to
phosphate injected mass produced rubbish.
I was
fortunate while working as a chef at The Baillie Nicol Jarvie Hotel
Aberfoyle to meet an old butcher who taught me how to make bacon. It
is very difficult to blend the ingredients in small quantity so I
strongly recommend using one of cures sold by Windsor or Morton’s Salt
companies. They will give you reasonable results and you can adjust to
taste next time. I have deliberately left out quantities for this
reason.
Ingredients.
Either Kosher or Pickling salt
Brown sugar
Sodium Nitrite
Spices
Potassium Nitrate
Previously boiled water
Pork Lion
Single Malt Whisky
Method
Assemble all the ingredients and pour the whisky into a glass
(preferably Edinburgh Crystal). Take a large swig to make sure it
hasn’t gone bad.
Mix
all the ingredients except the whiskey in a bowl then add to the water
which has been boiled then cooled and is now in a plastic or ceramic
container, mix well being careful not to spill the whiskey. Sip the
whiskey to make sure you didn’t get any of the mix in it.
Set
the cure to one side, now thoroughly wash your pork lion and pat dry.
Take a sip of whiskey
In
Scotland they tend to leave about a half inch of fat but June forces
me to trim it well, she does have other great qualities to compensate.
While
I’m at it I usually cut off a small roast and a few chops for myself.
Take a sip of the whiskey
Lay
the pork into the brine and weigh down with a plate or two to make
sure it is submerged. Take a sip of whiskey Place the container in the
fridge. If the whiskey has evaporated pour another.
By
this time I’m usually so hungry I could eat the pork raw but we have
to leave it for two to two and a half days.
I
like to turn it every twelve hours but that does not have to be exact.
Try explaining that you got up at 3 a.m. to turn you bacon! At this
time I usually sing a chorus or two of “Flower of Scotland” or
depending on the quantity of whiskey in the recipe perhaps “Ah Belong
tae Glesga”
I
could murder a fish supper.
After
the appointed time and when the bacon is an even colour of red
throughout wash the excess brine off with fresh water pat it dry.
Don’t butter your bread and turn on the grill yet, you have to let it
mature in the fridge for 1 to 2 weeks. I then usually like to freeze
the bacon for an hour or two to make it easier to slice.
If
you use low carb bread to make the sannies
your allowed to eat as many as you want without guilt.
As a
point of interest should you want to make French style bacon just
substitute red wine for the whiskey.
Cheers...Frank