1822-1825.
ABOUT the 28th of
May, 1822, I received a Ietter from Mr. MacDonald, of Ferintosh, in
reply to an application I had made to him as to the dispensation of
the sacrament in my parish on the 10th of June. He wrote me to say
that I should not depend upon his assistance, as he had resolved to
visit St. Kilda, an island of the west, situated nearly midway
between the northern coast of Ireland and the Scottish mainland. He
would, he said, hold himself in readiness from the 1st of June to
proceed to St. Kilda, waiting only for a call to go thither when the
Revenue cutter which, at the time, was employed in a cruise to the
Western Isles, should be ready to sail.
I may here observe
that Mr. MacDonald was distinguished above all his contemporaries by
his missionary zeal. Living and labouring statedly in Ross-shire,
Mr. MacDonald often cast an eye of pity towards those "dark places"
of the north whose inhabitants, from one end of the year to the
other, "heard not the voice of the Dove." Not satisfied, therefore,
with engaging in the stated and ever-returning duties of the
pastoral office at home, he made engagements for week-day preaching
excursions. I accompanied him, not to assist—he had no occasion for
that—but to witness the extent of his labours, and from Tuesday to
Friday he preached thrice daily. But these daily engagements were
not yet enough to satisfy his ardent desire to "spend and be spent"
in the service of his Lord. It had, as he himself observed, become
his element to preach the gospel, and, like our modern tourists in
their own peculiar sphere making out new tours of pleasure through
countries untravelled before, so he, in his heaven-bound course, cut
out new work and sought earnestly after new fields of apostolic
labour. St. Kilda was one of his recently discovered spheres. The
inhabitants, on his arrival, he found sitting under that darkness
which, for ages gone, by had been gradually but steadily
accumulating. The island formed a part of the parish of Harris, the
ministers of which in succession no more troubled themselves about
their parishioners there than they might be supposed to do about the
inhabitants of Kamtschatka. Mr. MacDonald, however, came to them,
"preaching peace by Jesus Christ." The subject was new to them, and
they listened to the message with undivided attention and cordial
welcome. An affecting illustration of this he personally
communicated to me. He said that, after having set before them the
plan of redemption and shown the necessity of faith in Christ for
salvation, not only from its nature but from its fruits, he enforced
the necessity of a holy life, which consisted in keeping Christ's
commandments from love to Him. In his private intercourse with them
he understood that, as fishermen on the sea and hunters on the land,
they were in the habit of devoting to these pursuits the Sabbath no'
less than the week-days. Mr. MacDonald showed them that, to sanctify
the first day of the week, in remembrance of Christ's glorious
resurrection, was one of His commandments just as sure as any other
precept of the moral law. "O yes, yes sir," said they, "did we but
know that it was a sin we should not have done it." The gospel thus
preached was not slow in producing its proper effects, and before
Mr. MacDonald terminated his first visit the islanders were already
united as a congregation of simple-minded lovers of the truth. They
desired a stated ministry—a privilege of which for ages they had
been deprived. This, therefore, became the next object of Mr.
MacDonald's labours, and hence he annexed, as the indispensable
condition of his compliance with the many requests made to him,
either to assist at sacraments or for week-day preachings, that a
collection be made for erecting a church in St. Kilda. His object
was accomplished.
A gentleman, whose
name I cannot recall, was tacksman of St. Kilda, and went twice a
year to receive his rent, which the inhabitants paid in kind,
namely, in fish and feathers. He proceeded in a Revenue cutter which
cruised on the Western Archipelago daring the summer months, and
afforded the cheapest, if not the only way of going thither. With
the captain of the cutter it was arranged that i11r. MacDonald
should be conveyed back to the coast of Skye at any time he should
elect. Having settled the preliminaries of his voyage, he next
entered into a brotherly paction with Mr. Shaw, minister of
Bracadale, a simple-minded and worthy man, who had agreed to
accompany him. [Mr John Shaw, a native of Moulin, Perthshire, was
translated from Duirinish to Bracadale, in 1813. He died 16th
January, 1823, in the 39th year of his age and the 12th of his
ministry.—Ed.] The night before they went on board the cutter Mr.
MacDonald lodged at the manse of Bracadale. Each lay in a separate
bed but in the same room. The terrors of a long and, in all
probability, boisterous passage on the Atlantic so wrought upon Mr.
Shaw's fears that, during the night, he kept tossing on his pillow
in anticipation of the voyage. "Oh, Mr. MacDonald," said the
afflicted man, "are you awake? " "No," said the other, "I am not."
"Is not the Bible a good book, Mr. MacDonald?' "O yes, yes," said
the other, "but let us sleep at present," and seconding his advice
by his example he set to it with such earnestness as to drown all
farther queries. The summons to sail came with the peep of dawn. Mr.
MacDonald speedily started out of bed, and dressed himself. Mr. Shaw
did the same. They walked to the beach, and found the ship's yawl
awaiting them, but as do the ocean's billows, restrained by an
invisible and all-controlling power, so did Mr. Shaw under the
dominancy of his fears, each so far came, but could no farther go.
Mr. MacDonald sprang into the boat, took his seat, and beckoned to
his friend to seat himself beside him. But Mr. Shaw's feet were
rooted to the pebbles, his heart failed him, he waved his hands,
bade him adieu, and returned to his home.
Mr. Shaw's timidity
was ludicrous, but it proved portentous. The cutter, with Mr.
MacDonald as sole passenger, was overtaken on the return journey by
a furious storm, and was so far driven out of its course as to be
many weeks behind the usual time of its arrival on the coast of
Skye. In the meantime the report became current that the good ship,
with Mr. MacDonald, the captain, and crew, had foundered at sea,
which report continued to circulate some time after Mr. MacDonald's
safe arrival at home. He himself indeed told me that, sitting at his
own fireside, he read in the Aberdeen Journal a long account of his
death and character. On another voyage Mr. MacDonald was accompanied
to St. Kilda by his son Simon. Whilst the father was engaged in
making himself acquainted with the moral state and conduct of the
inhabitants, the son was occupied in ascertaining the extent,
dimensions, and even the very shape of their sea-girt habitation.
Having surveyed the island on every side by coasting it all around
in a boat, and travelling over its rugged surface on foot, he
contrived to block out a miniature model of it. The material
consisted of a mass of blue clay, of more than ordinary tenacity,
which he had so moulded and shaped as to exhibit all the heights and
hollows and beetling precipices of the island more vividly and
accurately than the best constructed map or the most finished
drawing could have done. I have seen the model. [Dr. John MacDonald
was translated from the Gaelic Chapel, Edinburgh, to Urquhart or
Ferintosh 1st Sept,, 1813; be died 16th April, 1849, in the 70th
year of his age and 43rd of his ministry. His eldest son John, whose
memoir has been written by Dr. W. K. Tweedie, became one of the
Church's most devoted missionaries in India. Dr. MacDonald visited
St. Kilda in 1822, 1825, 1827, and 1830. His journals of
evangelistic work among the people of that isolated island have been
republished by his biographer, the late Dr. John Kennedy of Dingwall.
—Ed.]
My correspondence for
]825 reminds me of a society shortly before formed at Inverness
under the imposing name of "The Northern Institution for the
Promotion of Science and Literature," and having for its object the
investigation of the antiquities of the country and its civil and
natural history. The association was chiefly, if not wholly, got up
by the Messrs. Anderson of that town, both men of considerable
literary attainments. They had already published "The Tourists'
Guide Book through the Highlands of Scotland," a work of much
utility and interest. On the 21st of June, 1825, Mr. George
Anderson, secretary to the institution, solicited my aid and
co-operation in forwarding this object by furnishing replies to some
queries on the antiquities and natural history of Resolis. My
avocations were such as to afford me no time to spare for the
purpose, and I was silent, while Mr. Anderson, as I had reason to
know, was equally unsuccessful with the great majority of my
brethren.
During the course of
the same year, Mr. Kirkaldy, a wealthy merchant in Dundee, paid a
visit to the north. I have already referred to him as a man of
eminent piety, and, though he is now in great poverty and advanced
in years, he was than a young man in easy and even affluent
circumstances. He came to reside for a few days among his friends in
Ross-shire. One particular incident is recalled to my recollection.
Mr. MacDonald was to preach a week-day sermon at Cromarty. For that
town he and Mr. Kirkaldy and I set out from Resolis together. The
day began to rain, but it was only a commencement. We got to
Cromarty without being much inconvenienced. During the continuance
of the service, however, and whilst we remained at Cromarty, the
rain continued. In the evening we all three set out for the manse of
Resolis, and arrived at the bridge of Newhall. But all farther
progress homewards was here interdicted. The burn was swollen over
"bank and brae." It had cut out a new channel on the north side of
the bridge, so as to preclude all possibility-of crossing. There
was, however, still farther up, another way of access to the other
side of this furious stream, a little to the north-east of the house
and place of Braehiugwell. This also we attempted, but it was
equally impossible. The ford across lay in the bottom of a deep
hollow, with high hanks, upwards of ten feet, on each side. The
water, however, rose to the very edge of the banks, and even
overflowed them. The question then came to be—what next? Poyntzfield
House stood on this side the burn, and was then occupied by Mr.
Munro, the proprietor, and his truly excellent wife, both equally
hospitable. I suggested that we should go thither, and ask quarters.
We did so, and were most kindly received. Mr. MacDonald, suo more
at family worship, gave a short but comprehensive exposition of the
chapter which he read. Next morning, all intervening obstacles being
removed, we breakfasted at the manse, and before we parted, among
our other themes of conversation was the high ministerial character
of Mr. Lachlan Mackenzie, late minister of Lochcarron, who had died
about six years before. Mr. Kirkcaldy proposed to erect, at his own
expense, a marble slab to the memory of so eminent a man, to ho
placed in the wall of the church of Lochcarron, and requested that
Mr. MacDonald and I should undertake to draw out for it a suitable
inscription. For this purpose I wrote to Mr. Roderick Forbes, a
relative of my own, then a teacher at I'lockton of Lochalsh,
requesting him to favour me with information respecting the date of
Mr. Lachlan's death, his age, and the number of the years of his
ministry. On the 13th of June Mr. Forbes replied to say that he was
furnished with answers to my enquiries by the late Mr. Lachlan
Mackenzie's nephew, Mr. Donald Mackenzie, then residing at Lochalsh,
[Mr. Donald Mackenzie, on being licensed to preach the gospel, was
appointed assistant to Mr. Mackenzie, minister of Comrie ; he became
minister of Ardeonaig in 1837. lie acted as colleague to Mr William
Burns (afterwards of China) during an evangelistic tour throughout
the highlands of Perthshire in August, 1840, which was the occasion,
under God, of a remarkable religious revival among the people of
those parts. His character was simple and his manners primitive, but
lie was a very impressive and powerful Gaelic preacher. He died 10th
October, 1873.—Ed.] who stated that his uncle died on 20th April,
1819; that his age was 65 years, those of his ministry amounting to
37, two of which he had spent in the island of Lewis. Mr. MacDonald
and I, soon after the receipt of this communication, met to draw out
the inscription, embodying in it the above mentioned particulars,
which I afterwards transmitted to Mr. Kirkaldy. But the monetary
affairs of that gentleman had, meanwhile, experienced a reverse, the
house with which he was connected failed, and the monument to the
memory of Mr. Lachlan was never executed. His memorial, however, is
embalmed in the hearts of the many to whom his ministry was blessed,
while, as one of "the righteous," his name "shall be had in
everlasting remembrance."
My friend and relative, Mr. John Mackay of Rockfield, is recalled to
my recollection by a letter which I received from him, dated at
Kildary on the 18th of June, 182-5. lie usually resided, and
especially during the winter, at his house, 122, Princes Street,
Edinburgh. But, having purchased an estate in Ross-shire, he came
north, where he spent the greater part of the summer months. His
wife was niece of the late Mr. Donald MacLeod of Geanies, then
Sheriff-Depute of Ross and Cromarty, the lineal representative of
the ancient, but extinct, family of the MacLeods of Assynt, and the
last of the lairds of Geanies ; that property, after his death,
having been purchased by a successful merchant of Tain, named
Murray. With Mrs. Mackay I had got acquainted many years before,
when on a visit to my fathers' house while I was but a mere youth.
She was then Miss Bella Gordon, the third daughter of Mr. John
Gordon, of Carrol, who lived at Kintradwell. My cousin and she had
been married long before he wrote.
The General
Assembly's Schools for the instruction of the children of the poor
in the Highlands—having a similar object in view with the Inverness
Education Society—were in full operation. The former, however, added
to their supply of initiatory teachers for the children a class of
instructors for the parents, called catechists, who, in the more
remote parts of the Highlands and Islands, were ignorant of the
first principles of Scripture truth. Catechists were a class or
order of religious teachers not recognised by the founders of the
Scottish Church. They were employed for the purpose of teaching the
people —both old and young—to commit to memory and to repeat the
Shorter Catechism, of which they also gave a short explanation. This
was all the more necessary, as in many if not all parishes
throughout the Highlands, with a population amounting perhaps to
2000 people, not a single individual of the working-classes could
read. So far as I can ascertain, the General Assembly s School
Committee, if we except the Christian Knowledge Society, was the
first to recognise this order of instructors. As I had already
received a school for the west end of the parish from the Inverness
Society, I applied to the Assembly's committee for another school in
the east end, at Jemimaville. My application to Principal Baird and
the committee on the 6th July was immediately acknowledged. In the
month of March, 1826, I received intimation that my claims were
favourably entertained. The school was afterwards established and
examined by Dr. Baird more than once. [Dr. George Husband Baird was
born at Bo'ness in 1761. His diligence as a student attracted the
notice of Principal Robertson, whom he succeeded in 1793 as
Principal of the University of Edinburgh. In 1792 he was appointed
minister of New Greyfriars, and professor of Oriental Languages in
the University. He was afterwards translated to the New North
parish, and finally succeeded Dr. Blair in the High Church. His wife
was the eldest daughter of Lord Provost Thomas Elder. He died 11th
January, 1810, in the 53rd year of his ministry.—Ed.]
Since my settlement
at Resolis I had continued to hold a close and brotherly intercourse
with my highly-gifted and beloved relative the late Mr. Donald
Fraser, minister of Kirkhill. Mr. (afterwards Dr.) MacDonald of
Ferintosh, Mr. John Kennedy of Killearnan, and he, were my guides
and friends, with whom I had delighted to hold sweet counsel on
sacramental and other occasions at Kirkhill, Ferintosh, Resolis and
elsewhere. Mr. Fraser was at the time secretary, as he was indeed
the founder, of the Inverness Society for the education of the poor
in the Highlands. With him was associated, in the same office, Mr.
Alexander Clark, his co-presbyter and one of the ministers of
Inverness, but on Mr. Fraser rested chiefly the labour and
responsibility which attached to it. The Society established schools
in every direction, but it was on the condition that, in every
parish where one had been established, contributions should be made.
This condition was but very partially fulfilled, and the Society
began to be rather hampered for want of funds. To remedy this evil
it appeared to Mr. Fraser that the proper course was to extend the
sphere of the Society's operations. Adopting this proposal, he
thought of the practicability of a mission, in favour of the
Society, to Sutherland and Caithness, and he and I were, by the
Directors, appointed for that purpose.
In the first instance
Mr. Fraser begged that I should write Mr. Kennedy of Dornoch
intimating all I knew of the subject, and asking in the most
deferential terms if he would agree that our deputation should
occupy his pulpit on a certain Sabbath, if so that he would have the
goodness to intimate the same on the previous one. To my letter so
written Mr. Kennedy replied, and, after some reference to Mr.
Fraser's "very venal offence of being a young man," he agreed to the
proposal. On informing Mr. Fraser of the success of my negotiation
with Mr. Kennedy, he urged the necessity of our beginning operations
as soon as possible. All preliminaries being determined, Mr. Fraser
arrived at my house on the evening of the 23rd September, from which
we on the next day went to Dornoch. On Sabbath, the 25th, Mr. Fraser
preached at Dornoch, and I at the neighbouring parish of Rogert. I
rode to Rogart on the morning of Sabbath, preached in Gaelic and
English, and dined with the minister, Mr. John Mackenzie. He was the
son of Donald Mackenzie, tacksman of Tagan, in Gairloch, Ross-shire,
who had been my father's companion in youth. John had been my
fellow-student at the Edinburgh Hall. After the Disruption in 1843
he became my successor in the Established Church of Resolis. He had
some skill in medicine, not much, yet a great deal more than he had
in "ministering to a soul diseased." He received me into his manse
with polite kindness and civility.
I left Rogart the
same evening for Dornoch, and on Monday, the 26th of September, Mr.
Fraser and I went to Clyne, where Mr. Fraser preached, and a large
collection for our society was made; and where both of us were
hospitably entertained at the house of a Mr. Harper, the tacksman of
Clynelish, and a distiller. This was during a vacancy in that
parish—The Rev. Walter Ross having died shortly before. On Tuesday
following we preached at Loth, Mr. Donald Ross being the minister of
the parish. For some years Mr. Ross was minister of Kilmuir in Skye.
At the time that MacPherson, in a splenetic fit, resigned the
pastoral charge of Golspie, resisted all the solicitations of the
Presbytery of Dornoch, as well as of his own friends, to retract his
resignation, and persisted in his intention, Mr. Ross was presented
by the Marchioness of Stafford to the living. As he was about to be
presented, however, MacPherson reappeared to claim the living, and,
the case being carried by appeal to the Assembly, it was voted, on
the motion of Dr. Cook of St. Andrews, that MacPherson should be
restored, and Mr. Ross, although already inducted, set aside. The
patrons resolved to make up the loss to the disappointed presentee.
Rogart became vacant soon afterwards, by the death of my relative,
Mr. George Urquhart, and Air. Ross was presented, with the assurance
that any vacant living in the gift of the patrons, preferable in
point of emolument to Rogart, should be at his disposal. Accordingly
when, by the death of Dir. G. Gordon, the larger living of Loth
became vacant, Mr. Ross was presented to the living. He afterwards
became involved in debt, and reduced in circumstances and in
character.
We pushed on to
Latheron. On our way we crossed the Ord of Caithness. The old road
over this promontory—the same identically which William, Earl of
Caithness, nearly four centuries ago, had passed with his gallant
band, clad in green, to the fatal battle of Flodden was really
dangerous. It lay within a foot, and stretched along the very edge,
without any protecting buttress, of a precipice 800 feet above the
sea. We were, however, more fortunate. A new road had been made in
1804, from the Meikleferry to Wick, the expenses of which were paid
partly by the proprietors and partly by the Exchequer. In passing
the Ord this road, instead of edging on the brink of the precipice,
as formerly, was carried by an easy sweep over the top of the hill.
As we drove up the western side, a striking view of the German
Ocean, just at its junction with the ;foray Firth, suddenly
presented itself. On ir. Fraser the effect was solemnising; he
remarked that a beautiful analogy subsisted between the material and
invisible worlds ; that he had often attempted to form purely ideal
conceptions of Eternity without success, and that to him the most
striking emblem of it—conveying a definite idea to the senses of
that which of itself is altogether incomprehensible—was a view over
the expanse of ocean from an eminence such as that on which we were
stationed, knowing as we did, at the same time, that it extended
invisible far beyond the line of the horizon.
We came to the manse
of Latheron in the evening, where we were received with the utmost
civility and welcome. My sister-in-law Maria (Mrs. Davidson), the
very personification of meekness combined with unfeigned piety, was
especially kind. Mr. Fraser preached, on the 28th Sept., in both
languages. At Latheron we fell in and conversed with a goodly number
of those from Kildonan who, when driven thence by territorial and
aristocratic oppression, found an asylum in the parish of Latheron.
Among others was the eminently pious and gifted George Mackay, the
eldest son of Donald, my father's catechist. He received us with the
ripe affability of an old believer. Though driven from Liriboll in
his native Strath, he continued to minister in his vocation to the
small remnant still residing ill Kildonan.
The next day we went to Watten, where, on the 29th September, I
preached. Mr. Fraser left us, intending to preach at Wick on
Sabbath, October 2nd, and I remained with Mr. Gunn until the
Saturday. During my residence in Caithness I had become slightly
acquainted with him, but this was the first time that I had the
opportunity fully to enter into and to estimate the excellency of
his Christian and ministerial character. The simplicity of his
faith, the soundness of his views, and the heaven-tending
earnestness of his spirit made me feel that, while I was scarce a
disciple, be was truly a master in Israel. [Mr. Alexander Gunn,
A.M., a native of Caithness, was ordained at Orphir, Orkney, in
1803, and admitted minister of Watten 20th Sept., 1805. He was a
preacher of eminent ability and evangelical power. His church became
a centre of attraction for the people of Caithness, and his ministry
was fruitful in spiritual blessing to many. lie died 28th August,
1836, in the Gard year of his age and 33rd of his ministry. His son
Alexander (who has completed the 50th year of his ministry)
succeeded him on the 6th April, 1837.—Ed.] The intimates of his home
at the time were his excellent helpmate, the daughter of Mr. Arthur,
my immediate predecessor at Resolis, and a sweet-looking girl of
about seventeen, his brother's daughter.
On Saturday, the 1st
October, I went to the manse of Thurso, where Mr. Mackintosh
received me with a hearty welcome. I had not seen him for several
years, and I was not a little struck with his appearance. Stout and
healthy before, he was now 'greatly reduced. Mrs. Mackintosh was
almost the same as when I first saw her, twelve or thirteen years
before. They had five of a family—four daughters and one son. The
eldest, Catherine, a very handsome woman, whom I recollect to have
seen as a mere girl twelve years before, was married to Captain
Sutherland, who had in lease the farm of Ulbster. The second
daughter, Elizabeth, had newly returned from Edinburgh, where she
had been at a boarding-school. Christina, Camilla, and James were
still at school. My first sight of Elizabeth was accompanied with an
indescribable impression, for I took the fancy that her lot and mine
were henceforth one and indivisible, or, as the English marriage
service has it, "for better for worse." Next day I preached at Reay,
and, in the evening returned to the manse of Thurso, and found Mr.
Fraser there before me. On Monday Mr. Fraser preached at Thurso, and
I at Dunnet. Among his bearers were, Sir John Sinclair, Bart., with
his son Mr. George Sinclair of Ulbster, and wife. With Mr. Jolly,
minister of Dunnet, I was acquainted ever since the year 1812, when
I resided at Bower and Stemster. He was then, as formerly, vigorous
and active in the discharge of his parochial duties, and as devoted
as ever to the guidance of Armuuus in Scripture interpretation.
"Whitby on the New Testament" was his favourite commentary and rade
mecum from his study to his pulpit. My sermon rudely crossed the
path of some of his favourite points, but without any intention on
my part. [Mr. Thomas Jolly, A.M., a native of the Mearns, was
ordained assistant and successor to Dr. Traill of Dunnet 10th
August, 1784; he died 2nd December, 1844, in the 91st year of his
ago and 61st of his ministry, he was not appreciated as a preacher,
but as a dispenser of -ordinary medicines to the sick of the parish
he was much sought after. One of his song, Thomas (who "came out" at
the Disruption), was minister of Keiss, and afterwards of Bowden,
while Peter was minister of Canis-bay, and finally succeeded his
father at Dunnet, the "living" of which has been in possession of
the family for a period of 105 years.—ED,] After dining. I left for
Thurso and again found my fellow-deputy before me at the manse. Next
day we preached at Halkirk-1 in Gaelic and he in English. On the
morning of Tuesday, the 4th October, before we set out, we
breakfasted at the castle of Thurso East. It was previously agreed
that Sir John and Mr. G. Sinclair should accompany us to Halkirk,
and the Lady Camilla had also agreed to go. Her husband Mr.
Sinclair, however, had an appointment with Mr. Innes of Sandside for
that day, and could not attend. Mr. Fraser and I, therefore, set out
for Halkirk, Sir John and Lady Camilla almost immediately following.
My sermon in Gaelic was preached in a cold and formal spirit to a
cold and formal audience. Mr. Fraser's English discourse was
different. It was a lucid and Scriptural exposition of that
beautiful expression of holy desire, "O send forth thy light with
thy truth." His application of the text, with reference to the godly
upbringing of poor children in the Highlands and Islands, was
appropriate, suitable and impressive. The sermon was greatly
admired, and by none more than by Lady Camilla, and she thought fit
to enter into a strict investigation with Mr. Fraser as to how, in
so short a time, he could prepare so masterly a discourse. We dined
with the worthy minister, Mr. John Munro, the cordial choice of the
people of Halkirk, and, in accordance therewith, the presentee of
the patron, Sir John Sinclair. In equally good taste, therefore, Sir
John and the Lady were, along with us, invited as guests on the
occasion. At dinner, as host, Mr. Munro did not feel himself exactly
in his element. The carving he delegated to me, especially a
well-roasted leg of mutton highly recommended to us for its
excellent taste and flavour. Sir John, among his many other
patriotic efforts to promote the improvement of the north of
Scotland, had introduced the merino breed of sheep into Caithness.
High compliments were paid Sir John during the repast, and after
dinner the subject was renewed by our drinking the worthy baronet's
health, to which he replied at great length. In the evening, Sir
John returned home with his daughter-in-law, and Air. Fraser and I
remained over night, crossing the hill of Sordal next morning in
order to preach at Bower.
The line of road was
so rugged as, in many places, to put us within almost a hairbreadth
of being overturned. We ascended the west side of the hill, until we
reached the great road leading from Thurso to Wick; then, nearly at
a right angle, striking off the road, we proceeded to the
north-west, until we came within a few yards of the manor-house of
Stempster, my old quarters in 1812, after which we drove in an
easterly direction towards Bower manse by a road which had not been
either improved, or even slightly repaired, for half a century at
least. Mr. Fraser preached one of the clearest, most forcible and
impressive sermons I ever heard. His concluding address in behalf of
our society was in keeping with the sermon which preceded it. At the
close of the services I met with my old patron Stempster. We greeted
each other with cordiality. I was so full of my excellent and gifted
friend's sermon that one of my first questions to him was, how he
liked it ? He said he did not know, but his object in coming from
his home to-day was only to gratify his curiosity by hearing me
preach and not the stranger, whom he neither knew nor c.ired
anything about. I replied that "I regretted that very much," and so
our conference broke off. The service in church being ended, we went
to the manse. Mr. Smith, my early acquaintance, and his wife, whom
as such I saw for the first time, received us with much kindness.
Mr. Smith was not much changed from what he was about twelve years
before, when, as parochial schoolmaster of Bower, I resided in his
house. Mrs. Smith was a your er daughter of the late Mr. Sinclair of
Barrock, one of his heritors. She was young enough to be Mr. Smith's
daughter, since he himself had in her infancy baptised her. They had
a numerous family, but none of them were with him at this time.
We drove to Olrig in
the evening, distant from Bower about four miles. The plan agreed
upon was, Mr. Fraser should preach at Olrig next day, and I at
Canisbay, on Thursday the 6th of October. We arrived at Olrig manse,
and found my early friend, Mr. William Mackenzie, waiting for us. I
had frequently met with him when residing in Caithness about twelve
years before. His father, the late Mr. George Mackenzie, was then
living, and at his hospitable manse I was frequently a welcome
guest. His eldest son was then, evep as I was myself, a candidate
for the ministry, neither of us very promising for the holy office
to which we aspired. William succeeded his father as minister of
Olrig, and when we visited him in 1825 he was unmarried, his sisters
by his father's second marriage living with him. [Mr. William
Mackenzie, who had been for five years minister of the Presbyterian
Church, Monkwearmouth, succeeded his father as minister of Olrig in
1825; in the same year he married Miss Catherine S. Brodie, who long
survived him Through his exertions the Parish Church was built in
1840. In 1843 he became Free Church minister of the parish, and died
in 1857, in the filth year of his ago and 39th of his ministry.—ED.]
Leaving my fellow-labourer to preach there, I set out early next
morning for Canisbay.
Crossing the sands of
Dunnet bay, and proceeding onward, close b' the manse, I drove past
the farmhouse of Ilattar, and the old baronial castle of Mey, and
arrived at the manse of Canisbay in time for breakfast. Mr. James
Smith, the minister, suet me at the door, and nave me a most
gentlemanly reception. I had been at his houae many years before on
a sacramental occasion. He was brother of Mr. Smith of Bower, and
both of them were the sons of Mr. Smith of Olrig, the immediate
predecessor of Mr. George Mackenzie. The congregation, which I
afterwards addressed, did not meet until 12 o'clock noon, and even
then but a mere handful assembled. The majority of them, if they
knew little of the value of education, knew for less of that of the
gospel. Mr. Smith's sermons were fitter for the Chair of a Professor
of Church History or Ethics than for the pulpit of a minister of
"the pure Evangel." But at the hour appointed the bell rang, and Mr.
Smith accompanied me down to the church, a ruinous Scandinavian
building, intimating by its appearance, evidently, that it must have
been erected as far back as the days of Paul II., Earl of Orkney, or
of his successor, Rognvald Kalle. The inside of the fabric was, like
all Caithness churches in those times, quite in keeping with the
outside, that is, in utter confusion. The congregation was as small
as it was unconcerned—they seemed as little impressed with the great
truths of the gospel declared to them in their own, as if spoken to
them in an unknown, tongue. Mr. Smith showed his hospitality both by
precept and example. He was almost of gigantic
proportions—considerably over six feet, and very stout. He indulged
to an extent which I could not but think dangerous, in the luxuries
of the table. My augury proved but too true, for he did not live
much more than four months from that day. He died of inflammation of
the bowels on the 31st of January, 182, in the 51st year of his age.
I came to Olrig that
evening, and from thence we proceeded to Thurso. Before leaving
Thurso manse I took occasion, in a private interview with Mr.
Mackintosh, to intimate the state of my feelings and affections
towards his daughter Elizabeth, to which he lent a favourable ear,
but said that she had gone to visit her sister, Mrs. Sutherland, at
Ulbster, and was soon afterwards to accompany her younger sister
Christina to Edinburgh to place her in a boarding-school. He would,
he added, communicate my wishes to Elizabeth on her return from
Ulbster, and she would write me personally.
On Friday, the 7th
October, we left Thurso after breakfast, and taking, what is usually
called the Causeymire road from Thurso to Berriedale Inn as the
shortest, we stopped that evening at the manse of Latheron. From
thence we came to Helmisdale, and there I remained to preach on the
following Sabbath. Mr. Fraser preached at Golspie on the same day.
At Helmisdale I had a great congregation, M. Campbell, my father's
successor, deeming it unnecessary to preach at Kildonan at all, from
the paucity of the inhabitants.
Our two remaining
engagements in Sutherland were at Lsirg and Creich. I met Mr. Fraser
at Golspie on Monday the 10th of October; from thence we set out for
Leirg. We were hospitably entertained in the evening at Rogart by
Mr. Mackenzie, and lodged there at night. Next day we arrived at
Lairg to breakfast, and, if my memory serves me aright, Mr. Fraser
preached. Mr. D. MacGillivray, the minister, gave as a most
brotherly reception, and next day, at an early hour, we left Lairg
and arrived at the manse of Creich for breakfast. We afterwards
engaged in the services of the day, when Mr. Fraser preached in
Gaelic and I in English. Arid so terminated our engagements in
behalf of the "Inverness Edinburgh Society," in the counties of
Sutherland and Caithness. What the sums contributed by each of the
congregations we visited were, or what the amount of the whole, I
cannot now recall. But I do recollect that at the annual meeting at
Inverness, some months after our return, where Mr. Fraser read a
report of the Society's operations for the preceding year, the
thanks of the meeting to Mr. Fraser and myself were moved by my old
acquaintance, Captain Robert Sutherland, formerly of Drumoy in
Golspie, but then residing at Inverness. I may here observe that,
the directors having appointed a committee to investigate the state
of education in the Highlands and Islands and to report, that report
was drawn up by Mr. Fraser [Mr. Donald Fraser, A.M., succeeded his
em4nent father, Dr. Alex. Fraser, as minister of Kirkhill on 28th
Sept., 1802; he died 12th July, 1836, in the 54th year of his age
and 34th of his ministry. In 1834 he published a small volume of
sennous entitled, "The Method of Salvation." His son Alexander was,
at the time of his father's death, minister of Cawdor, and succeeded
him at Kirkhill 26th Jan., 1837. Mr. Alex. Fraser accompanied the
Highland Brigade, as chaplain, to the Crimea during the war. In
connection with this appointment he frequently risked his life by
ministering to the wounded, sick, and dying, both in hospital and on
the field of battle, he died in 1885.—Ed.] of Kirkhill, and read by
hire at the annual meeting held at Inverness on the 2nd Nov., 1825,
and ordered to be printed. It was entitled "Moral Statistics," which
indeed justly belonged to it, from the comprehensive view of the
whole subject in all its bearings which it embraced. The report was
so admirably constructed as to be favourably noticed by the
"Edinburgh Review."
From this date I kept
up a regular correspondence with Mr. Mackintosh and his daughter
Elizabeth. 0u the 19th October he wrote me that he had spoken to
Elizabeth, communicating my wishes, and that she herself would write
me on the subject. His letter to me was so full of piety and good
sense that I must refer to its more important passages. "Eliza," he
wrote, "is just now at Ulbster, on a visit to her sister, where she
may remain a week or two, for such is their mutual attachment as to
find it not very easy to keel) separate. I have not failed to
deliver to her your friendly message, and I am happy to say that she
expressed no objection to your person, profession, or plan—only
regretted she had not more acquaintance with you, not so much as to
have heard you preach, and that she felt shy to write. As far as I
can learn, her affections are disengaged, and a little time and
acquaintance may bring near what may now appear distant. Rest
assured, my dear Sir, that my wife and I would always feel happy to
see her with a highly-esteemed minister of the gospel, as well as to
see you here. Yet your coming here immediately, so long a journey
when the weather is broken, might put you to unnecessary trouble and
expense; besides, your appearance would excite the curiosity of
meddling neighbours, and expose you and Eliza to the tongues of the
world, which the firmness of the philosopher can scarcely
withstand." But, after giving such sound and philosophical advice,
he adds that "if we be mutually spared until June next, when, Deo
libente et jurante, I intend to dispense the Communion, and you
come here to help at that solemnity, who knows, after the more
sacred duties are over, but you might prevail to bring home with you
a partner through life that, through grace, would prove a 'Mother in
Israel.'" |