Many years before Walter
Scott wove the name of Ulya into his song as one of a “group of islets
gay tbat guard famed Staff a round,” an old man, who had long been
renowned among the islanders for his wisdom and integrity, was dying in
one of its cottages. He called his children to his bedside, and with
patriarchal authority said, “I have searched carefully through all the
traditions of our family, and I never could discover that there was a
dishonest man among our forefathers. If therefore any of you should take
to dishonest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood. I leave
this precept with you: Be honest.” The old man was one of the ancestors
of David Livingstone, who regarded that dying charge as a nobler
inheritance for the family than a coat-of-arms quartered in gold and
crimson, or a castle enriched with baronial splendours. David’s
grandfather, being unable to obtain support for his numerous children
from his small farm in Ulva, removed to Blantyre, a village on a
beautiful reach of the Clyde above Glasgow, where he found employment in
a large cotton manufactory. In the noisier life of Blantyre he fondly
cherished the romantic memories of Ulva; and David, when a boy, listened
with delight to his Hebridean legends, and also to the Gaelic songs sung
by his grandmother, which she believed to have been composed by
islanders who had been captured by the Turks. The great traveller whose
name will be famous as long as Lake Ngami reddens with the glow of
African sunsets, or the Zambesi rushes down the awful chasm which breaks
its channel, was born at Blantyre in 1813. When ten years old he was
sent to the cotton-works; but was determined to make up for the defects
of his education by his own exertions, and with part of his first week’s
wages bought Ruddiman’s “Rudiments of Latin,” which he carefully
studied. He had to be in the factory, with short intervals for meals,
from six in the morning until eight at night, but as soon as his work
was over he hastened to a night-school, where he remained until ten, and
then, unless his mother snatched the book from his hand, sat reading and
thinking until twelve. His difficulties in the acquisition of learning
were great; but he was a thorough adept in the Scotch way of putting a
stout heart to a steep hill, and when sixteen was able to read Virgil
and Horace, and other classic authors. In English literature he
preferred books of Travel and Science to Boston’s “Fourfold State,” and
others of a like kind, to which his father wished him to give his
attention. The last time his father applied the rod to his shoulders,
was on his positively refusing to read Wilberforce’s “Practical
Christianity.” After a number of years his dislike of religious reading
was happily overcome by Dick’s “Philosophy of Religion,” and “Philosophy
of a Future State.” His parents had carefully instructed him in the
principles of Christianity, and about the time that Dr. Dick convinced
him that there was no real hostility between science and religion, he
began to feel the necessity of personal relationship to God through
Christ. The sense of sins forgiven awoke in him a desire to glorify his
Divine Benefactor, and his Missionary work in Africa was the outcome of
his happy experience of Christ’s saving power in Blantyre. When he
reached his nineteenth year he earned such wages as enabled him to
attend Greek and Medical classes in the Glasgow University through the
winter months, and also to take advantage of Dr. Wardlaw’s Divinity
Lectures in tlie summer. In his college course he did not receive, and
did not wish for, pecuniary help from any one; and, as day after day he
trod the nine miles of road between his home and Glasgow, he thought not
of the honours or emoluments of the scholar, but of greater capabilities
of doing good to his fellow men. Having finished his medical ,
curriculum, and passed an examination more than usually I severe, he was
admitted a Licentiate of Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, and
rejoiced in becoming a member of a profession which has for its end the
mitigation of human suffering and the lengthening of human life.
It had been his intention to go as a medical Missionary to China, but
that field of Christian enterprise was closed against him by the
outbreak of the opium war, and he was induced by the London Missionary
Society to look towards Africa as the scene of his labours. He left
England in 1840, and landing at the Cape, went to Algoa Bay, and thence
to Kuruman, where the heroic Moffat had opened a paradise in the
wilderness. There was before him a fine exemplification of what could be
done by godly perseverance in the stone-built church and mission-house,
the printing press and the garden with the shadow of vine-leaves on its
herbs, and the fruit-trees blooming by its irrigating rivulet. Having
received instructions from the Directors of the London Missionary
Society to establish a mission further inland, he did not stay long at
Kuruman, but that station was always a bright spot to him, for when he
had been in Africa four years he was married to Mr. Moffat’s eldest
daughter, Mary. She had much of the spirit of her illustrious father,
and Livingstone had in her a helper with a brave affectionate soul, and
a hand never weary in good works. After some preliminary explorations,
he made choice of a part of the country occupied by the Bakatla tribe of
the Bechuanas, as the site of a mission station, and removed there in
1843. While at the village Mabotsa, his left arm was in part disabled by
a lion. He had shot it, but before the bullets took effect, it sprang
upon him, and would have killed him if a man whose life he had saved by
surgical skill when he was suffering from a wound inflicted by a
buffalo, had not come forward with his spear. The infuriated beast
turned its attention to its new assailant, and Livingstone was saved,
but had eleven teeth-marks in his arm, while the bone was so crunched
into splinters that it never properly united.
In 1845 Livingstone attached himself to the section of the Bechuanas
called the Bakwains. He thought highly of Sechele, the chief, a man of
bright intellect and impressible heart. When he opened his commission to
the people as a minister of Christ, Sechele asked him if his forefathers
knew of a future judgment. He replied in the affirmative, and began to
speak of the great white throne and the dead of all ages assembled
before the Judge. “You startle me,” replied the chief; “these words make
all my bones to shake; I have no more strength in me. But my fathers
were living at the same time yours were, and how is it that they did not
send them word about these things sooner? They all passed away into
darkness without knowing whither they were going.” Sechele was eager for
instruction, and soon learned to read the Bible. Isaiah was one of his
favourites, and he used to say, “He was a fine man, that Isaiah; he knew
how to speak.” He wished to aid the Missionary in his efforts to convert
his subjects to Christianity, but while as yet only in the twilight of
the faith, had little confidence in the efficacy of argument and
persuasion. “Do you imagine,” he asked, “these people will ever believe
by your merely talking to them;” and added, “I can make them do nothing
but by thrashing them; and if you like I shall call my head men, and
with our whips of rhinoceros-hide we will soon make them all believe
together.” When Sechele was baptized, and made a public profession of
Christianity, his people thought he was under the influence of some
strange glamour, and some of them addressed him in taunts, which, he
remarked, in the days of his heathenism would have cost them their
lives. A protracted drought rendered his position peculiarly trying, as
he had been a noted rain-maker, and the general opinion was that his
refusal to charm the clouds had caused the absence of rain. On account
of the drought the tribe migrated from Chonuane to the bank of a stream
called the Kolobeng. Livingstone built a house there, and when not
employed in teaching or preaching, had to act as gardener, carpenter and
blacksmith, while his noble wife, in addition to the mission work in
which she took part, made candles, soap, and the clothes required by the
family. A few words from Sechele suggested to Livingstone the expedition
to Lake Ngami. He was accompanied by Colonel Steele and Mr. Oswell, the
famous elephant hunter. The great difficulty was in crossing the
Kalahari Desert, which stretches between the lake and the Orange river.
The beds of ancient rivers show that it was once abundantly watered, but
now it has no running water, and very little in wells. Still it is not a
dreary waste of barren sand, but is almost covered with grass, and
plants with tuberous roots, and after a season of heavy rain produces
vast numbers of water-melons, with which both men and wild animals
rejoice to slake their thirst. Livingstone and his companions suffered
from want of water while they were in the desert; and at one time, when
terribly parched, thought they were about to dash into a lake, which, to
their chagrin, proved to be only a deceptive mirage caused by a blue
haze above the white incrustations of a huge salt-pan. Waves seemed to
dance before them, and trees to shadow their foliage in cool waters; and
so complete was the illusion that cattle, horses, dogs and Hottentots
rushed forward with the expectation of drinking to satiety. Two months
from the time of starting on their journey, Livingstone and his friends
were rewarded for the pains and perils they had undergone by seeing Lake
Ngami, the basin of which, though shallow, is about seventy-five miles
in circumference. But the Missionary, not content with the geographical
discovery, wished to reach Sebituane, the chief of the Makololo, who
lived two hundred miles beyond the lake. He was not at that time able to
extend his wanderings in that direction, and had to return to Kolo-beng.
Being still intent on the introduction of Christianity to Sebituane and
his people, he took his wife and children to the lake, and would have
passed over the intervening country, but the children were stricken by
fever, and he was compelled to abandon his purpose for that year. The
third attempt was successful, and he and his family received a generous
welcome from the chief. They had passed through a district infested by
the tsetse, a fly, the bite of which is fatal to most domestic animals,
and Sebituane, after expressing his joy at their arrival, said, “ Your
cattle are all bitten by the tsetse, and will certainly die; but never
mind: I have oxen, and will give you as many as you need.” In providing
for the present wants of his visitors, he gave them an ox and a jar of
honey, and prepared skins soft as cloth with which to cover themselves
at night. His life had been romantic as that of any hero honoured in
Scottish ballad or legend. He was at one time settled in the Bechuana
country, but being annoyed by hostile tribes, led his people over the
Kalahari Desert, and after adventures beyond the dreams of fiction,
crossed the Zambesi, overcame an immense army assembled to take the
skulls of his warriors as trophies, and established himself as ruler
over a wide tract of territory. His government was such as to conciliate
those who had been opposed to him, for he was as benevolent in peace as
heroic in war. When poor men went to his town with skins or oxen for
sale, he always spoke affably to them and fed them at his own cost.
Strangers, however large the party, never went away without each one
carrying a present from his hand, and the common verdict on him was, “He
has a heart! he is wise!”
Soon after Livingstone
entered his country, he was prostrated by inflammation of the lungs,
occasioned by an old wound. On the afternoon of the Sunday on which he
died, Livingstone, taking his little son with him, went to his house.
“Come near,” he said, “and see if I am any longer a man; I am done.” The
Missionary sat with him some time, and having commended his soul to the
mercy of Grod, was leaving, when he raised himself as much as he could,
and said to a servant, “Take Robert to Maunku (one of his wives) and
tell her to give him some milk.” These were the last words of the man of
whom Livingstone wrote: “He was decidedly the best specimen of a native
chief I ever met. I was never so much grieved by the loss of a black man
before; and it was impossible not to follow him in thought into the
other world, and to realise somewhat of the feelings of those who pray
for the dead. The dark question of what is to become of such as he must,
however, be left where we find it. *The Judge of all the earth will do
right!” The Makololo lived among swamps formed by the overflow of the
Chobe and the Zambesi. This rendered their country unhealthy for
Europeans, and Livingstone had to abandon his intention of settling
there with his family. There was no likelihood of his being able to
resume his labours at Kolobeng; for the Dutch Boers, who had become like
untaught Bechuanas in their barbarism, had broken up the mission station
in that place, and were evidently disposed to perpetuate their hostility
to missionary operations among the Bakwains. In those circumstances he
thought it best to embark his family for Europe, and to devote himself
to the task of exploring the country in search of a healthy district
which might be made the centre of evangelistic influences, and of
opening a path from the interior of the continent to its east or west
coast. After the death of Sebituane, the chieftainship devolved on his
daughter Mamochisane. She soon wearied of the office, and wished her
brother Sekelutu to take it. He hesitated, but at length yielded to her
earnest entreaties. Though he had not the abilities of his father he was
equally friendly to Livingstone, and readily aided him in his projects
for improving the condition of the Makololo.
In November, 1853, he set out on his daring expedition to Loanda, the
Portuguese settlement on the west coast. He took with him twenty-seven
men, two of whom were Makololo, and the rest belonging to different
tribes located on the Zambesi. His baggage consisted of a quantity of
beads, a little tea and sugar, about twenty pounds of coffee, books,
scientific instruments, a magic-lantern, and a tin canister containing a
change of clothes. Sekelutu accompanied the adventurers to the river
Chobe, on which they embarked in canoes, which were paddled in waters
swarming with hippopotami, and between banks on which magnificent trees
formed embowered retreats for elephants, buffalos, zebras, and
antelopes. From the Chobe they struck into the Leeambye, or upper part
of the Zambesi, and received generous treatment from the people in the
villages they passed, who presented them with oxen, butter, milk, and
meal. They rested on the Sabbath; and Livingstone recorded the following
of a Sabbath spent when they were on their way to the confluence of the
Leeba and Zambesi: “Rain had lately fallen, and the woods had put on
their gayest hue. Flowers of great beauty and curious forms, unlike
those in the south, grow everywhere. Many of the forest-trees have large
palmated leaves and trunks covered with lichens; and the abundance of
ferns which, appear in the woods, indicates a more humid climate than
any to the south of the Barotse valley. The ground swarms with insect
life; and in the cool mornings the welkin rings with the singing of
birds, whose notes, though less agreeable than those of the birds at
home, because less familiar, nevertheless strike the mind by their
loudness and variety as the wellings forth of praise to Him who fills
them with overflowing gladness. We all rose early to enjoy the balmy air
of the morning, and assembled for Divine worship; but amidst all the
beauty with which we were surrounded, a feeling of want was awakened in
my soul, at the sight of my poor companions, and at the sound of their
bitter, impure words, and I longed that their hearts might be brought
into harmony with the Great Father of Spirits. I pointed out to them in
the simplest words the remedy which God has presented to us in the
precious gift of His own Son, on Whom the Lord ‘ laid the iniquity of us
all.’
The great difficulty in
dealing with these people is to make the subject plain. The minds of the
auditors cannot be understood by one who has not mingled much with them.
They readily pray for the forgiveness of sins, and then sin again;
confess the evil of it, and there the matter ends.” A tall stalwart
young woman named Manenko, who was chief of one of the villages on the
Leeba, while favouring the objects of the expedition, insisted on
Livingstone and his companions leaving the canoes and proceeding by
land. She seized the luggage, and the black men, frightened by her sharp
tongue, readily succumbed, but Livingstone manifested a determination to
go on in his own way. Seeing this, she laid her hand on his shoulder,
and with a motherly look, said, “Now, my little man, just do as the rest
have done.” He had to yield, and rode on ox-back, while she, with her
husband and a noisy drummer, walked towards the residence of her uncle
Shinte, who received the white man with all the ceremony of an African
court, but soon slided from his dignity to encouraging friendliness.
After leaving Shinte, Livingstone had to contend with difficulties that
would have overcome a man of less indomitable mind. He was often
enfeebled by fever, his men at times became dispirited, greedy or
suspicions tribes threatened the party with deadly attacks, flooded
plains and wide rivers had to be crossed, and scarcity of provisions was
painfully felt. But through all he held to his purpose, and, on the 31st
of May, 1864, was welcomed to Loanda by Mr. Gabriel, an English
gentleman, who was residing there as a commissioner for the suppression
of the slave-trade. The sea was viewed with astonishment by his simple
followers, who, in afterwards relating their adventures, remarked: “We
were marching along with our father, believing that what the ancients
had always told us was true, that the world has no end; but all at once
the world said to us, ‘I am finished, there is no more of me.’
”Livingstone’s health was so affected by repeated attacks of fever that
he had to stay a considerable time at Loanda. He might have gone to St.
Helena, or have come to England on one of the ships of the British navy,
but he felt it his duty to restore his people to their homes, and when
convalescent started for Linyanti, the Makololo capital. The route
homeward was in part varied from that of the journey to the coast, but
the incidents of travel were similar. The travellers were
enthusiastically welcomed by their friends who had scarcely expected
seeing them again, and a grand meeting was convened in Linyanti to
inspect the articles which had been brought from Loanda, and to hear the
report of the wonders which had been seen. During his stay in the town,
Livingstone was fully employed, for all of its inhabitants, to the
number of seven thousand, thought themselves free to call on him, and he
prescribed for their ailments, or endeavoured to engage them in
conversation on the facts and doctrines of Christianity. He also held
frequent meetings for public worship, and noticed greater decorum of
behaviour on the part of the people than when he first went among them.
Though remote from
civilisation and uncheered by the presence of his wife and children, yet
standing before the swarthy sons of the Zambesi, and telling them of the
love of their Heavenly Father in sending His Son to redeem them from
their guilt and misery, he knew a sublimer joy, and held a higher
position than any of those Pharaohs who were borne in golden galleys
among the lotus-flowers of the Nile, or sat enthroned amid the pictorial
pride of Egyptian palaces. Having found that the path to the west would
not be serviceable to the Makololo, Livingstone resolved to work his way
to the east coast by the Zambesi. Seke-letu aided him largely in
preparing for the journey, and was anxious that he should bring back
Ma-Robert, as Mrs. Livingstone was called; it being the custom of the
Makololo to designate the mother by the name of the eldest child. On his
departure Mamire, who had married the mother of Sekeletu, said to him:
“You are now going among people who cannot be trusted because we have
used them badly; but you go with a different message from any they ever
heard before, and Jesus will be with you, and help you, though among
enemies; and if He carries you safely and brings you and Ma-Robert back
again, I shall say He has bestowed a great favour upon me. May we obtain
a path whereby we may visit, and be visited by other tribes, and by
white men!” Livingstone had not proceeded very far before he saw the
five gigantic columns of vapour which betokened his approach to the
great falls of the Zambesi.
The scenery of the river
above the falls has a calm beauty, in wide contrast to their terrible
grandeur. Lovely islands, like costly vases filled with choicest
vegetation, dot the waters, and on either side the banks rising in green
acclivities, are shadowed by the vast trunks of baobabs and groups of
graceful palms, while the silvery mohonono glimmers amid the darker
green, and trees resembling the elm and the chestnut remind the
traveller of the boughs that knit themselves into sylvan arches above
English lawns. The river, between five and six hundred yards wide when
Livingstone saw it, but a thousand yards when in full flood, is
precipitated into a black fissure that runs across its bed, and held for
thirty miles in a narrow chasm in the basaltic rock. Some of the
natives, taking advantage of the eddies and still pools, cautiously
paddled him in a canoe to an island in the middle of the river, and on
the very edge of the fearful crevice. Looking down on the right of the
island he could see nothing but a dense cloud of spray, on which two
rainbows shed their prismatic light; but on the left of the island he
saw the water a hundred feet below him rolling away in a white impetuous
mass. The Makololo called the falls, Mosi-oa-tunya, or
Smoke-sounds-there, but Livingstone named them the “Victoria Falls.”
Many honours have been
worthily bestowed on the Queen of England, but in no part of the world
is her name associated with a more magnificent display of the Creator’s
power than that on the distant Zambesi. With a hundred and fourteen men
carrying tusks for barter, Livingstone went on his way towards Kilimane
on the East Coast. When they got beyond the dominions of Sekeletu, they
felt some anxiety as to the manner in which they would be received by a
tribe whom the Makololo regarded as being in rebellion against their
chief. The people of one village seemed disposed to be friendly, but
those of another made hostile demonstrations. They began by attempting
to spear a young man who had gone for water. Failing in that, they
approached the travellers, and one of them, howling like a maniac and
with eyes protruding and foaming lips, stood close to Livingstone,
brandishing a small battle-axe with a fierceness which was anything but
soothing to the nerves. Livingstone felt some alarm, but disguised it
from the spectators, and would not allow his own men to knock the savage
on the head as they wished to do. When his courage had been sufficiently
tested, he beckoned to one of the friendly villagers to lead the madman
away, and was glad to see the battle-axe at a safe distance.
The Makololo and their
leader were threatened with destruction. “They are lost,” it was said.
“They have wandered in order to be destroyed.” But one of their friends
did them good service by explaining their character and intentions, and
they escaped without molestation. From a range of hills near the
confluence of the Kafue and the Zambesi, Livingstone beheld a scene
which repaid him for many of the hardships and dangers of his journey.
“At a short distance below us,” he wrote, “ we saw the Kafue, wending
its way over a forest-clad plain to the confluence, while in the
background, on the other side of the Zambesi, lay a long range of dark
hills, with a line of fleecy clouds overhanging the course of the river
at their base. The plain below us, at the left of the Kafue, had more
large game on it than anywhere else I have seen in Africa. Hundreds of
buffaloes and zebras grazed on the open spaces, and beneath the trees
stood lordly elephants feeding majestically. The number of animals was
quite astonishing, and made me think that I could here realise an image
of that time when Megatheria fed undisturbed in the primeval forests.”
Livingstone wished to cross the Zambesi near the village of a chief
named Mpende, but the people of the' village instead of manifesting
willingness to help the party, prepared to attack it.
Armed men were seen
gathering from all quarters, and spies frequently approached the
Makololo encampment. To two of these, Livingstone handed the leg of an
ox, desiring them to take it to Mpende, who on receiving it sent two old
men to enquire who the donor was. “I am a Lekoa,” (an Englishman) was
the reply. When they found he was not a Mozunga, as they called the
Portuguese with whom they had been fighting, they said, “Ah! you must be
one of the tribe that loves the black men.” They returned to Mpende, who
decided to grant a passage to the white man and his followers, and had
them ferried across the river in canoes. After various experiences they
reached Kilimane on the 20th of May, 1856. Livingstone had been engaged
in explorations for the greater part of four years. His work was sublime
in its magnitude and purpose; he had passed from side to side of the
African continent, had sailed on rivers in which no white man’s face had
been before reflected, and travelled through forests in which there had
never before been the track of a white man’s footsteps; he had for ever
dispelled the old fancy that the interior of Africa was a desert in
which it would be vain to look for water or foliage, by ascertaining the
abundance of its streams and the fertility of its soil; and he had done
this, not that his name might be great before the world, that he might
be renowned in the poet’s lay and the orator’s period, or that he might
lift the brow darkened by the African sun before applauding multitudes
in the halls of science and literature ; but to demonstrate the grandeur
of the field open to the Christian Missionary, to facilitate the
intercourse of tribe with tribe, to give to lands wasted and depopulated
by war the aspect of a continuous garden, and to supersede the
abominations of slavery by a legitimate commerce.
Promising to return and
take back his men to Sekeletu, he embarked on H. M. brig Frolic, and
landed in England on the 12th of December, 1856. Great enthusiasm was
excited by his appearance in England and Scotland. The gold medal of the
Royal Geographical Society was awarded to him; Universities vied with
each other in conferring npon him their proudest diplomas; and the press
eulogised him in its most laudatory strains. But whatever pleasure the
applause of the nation might afford him, it was nothing to the pleasure
he would have had in sitting by the fireside in the old cottage of
Blantyre, and relating his African adventures to his venerable father.
It was with deep sorrow he learned that his aged parent had passed away
while he was in the interior of Africa, hut, on his way to his native
land. Having published thejbpok in which he described his adventures and
discoveries1 he was ready for another expedition in Africa, and Eord
Palmerston, then at the head of Her Majesty’s Government, consented to
assist him in further researches on the Zambesi, and in other parts of
Africa. He went out in 1858, with a party including his brother Charles,
and Dr. Kirk. They had a steam launch named the Ma-Robert in which to
navigate the rivers, and one of their earlier exploits was to pass up
the Shir6, one of the tributaries of the Zambesi, until they reached the
magnificent cataracts to which they gave the name of the illustrious
geographer Murchison.
Going overland from the
Shire, they discovered the lakes Shirwa and Nyassa, and near the latter,
a fine sheet of water about two hundred miles in length, were hospitably
entertained by an old man in the “ pillared shade” of a fine
banyan-tree, and were thankful to have a night of undisturbed rest in
that natural palace. But Livingstone did not forget his promise to the
men who had marched with him from Linyanti to the coast. They had stayed
during his absence at a Portuguese village, where they had maintained
themselves by cutting firewood, and by other employments, but were
impatient for his return and welcomed him back as their true and loving
father. Some of them were about to embrace him as he stepped from the
boat to the bank of the river, but others noticing that he was very
different in appearance from what he was when plunging with them through
morasses and struggling through tangled woods, cried out, “Don’t touch
him, you will spoil his new clothes.” The party started for Linyanti on
the 15th of May, 1860. It was a toilsome journey, but there was an
unceasing interest for the European travellers in the scenery of the
hills, the rich diversity of vegetable and animal life, and the strange
customs of the tribes with which they came in contact. When they halted
for the night fires were kindled, long grass was cut for beds, and
though they had no tent, they found it pleasant to look between the
branches above them to the large glories of the African sky.
he Makololo country was
safely reached, but it was not in such a prosperous condition as when
Livingstone left it in 1855. Drought had caused scarcity of food, and
Sekeletu had been attacked by leprosy. He had secluded himself in a
covered waggon which was enclosed in a fence of reeds, and allowed no
one to see him but his uncle and a noted female doctor. An exception,
however, was made in favour of Livingstone, who prescribed for him, and
relieved him so much that he began to have hopes of recovery. But the
disease, though checked, renewed its ravages, and on his death the
nation, founded by the genius of Sebi-tuane, was broken up by civil war.
Having looked for the last time down the awful rift of the Victoria
Falls, Livingstone and his party descended the navigable reaches of the
Zambesi in canoes, and re-embarked on. the Ma-Robert, which they had
left in charge of two English sailors, at a small island named Kanyimbe.
They steamed to the Kongone mouth of the Zambesi, where they abandoned
the Ma-Robert, which had become all but useless, for the Pioneer,
another vessel provided by the British government in which they were
ordered to explore the Rovuma, a river beyond the Portuguese dominion.
The dismal mangroves on the coast, and along, the lower parts of the
river were left behind, and they passed between beautiful ranges of
wooded hills, but when they had advanced about thirty miles the water
fell so rapidly, that it was necessary for them to return to avoid
waiting for the rains of another year.
Bishop Mackenzie, with
the agents of the Oxford and Cambridge Mission, having arrived the same
time as the Pioneer, Livingstone agreed to assist them in the search for
a suitable settlement on the highlands above the valley of the Shire. At
one point of the journey a long line of manacled men, women, and
children, came in sight, and with them a number of black drivers,
arrayed in grotesque finery, carrying muskets and assuming consequential
airs. There was a sudden collapse of their dignity when they saw the
faces of the English, and they rushed with all possible speed into the
forest. The captives were in a state of joyful amazement when their
bonds were severed, and they were told to cook and eat the provisions
they had been carrying for their drivers. One little boy said, “The
others tied and starved us, you cut the ropes and tell us to eat; what
sort of people are you ? Where did you come from ? ” Cruelty had not
been restrained even by self-interest, and two of the women in the
slave-gang had been shot for attempting to unfasten the thongs with
which they were bound; another woman’s child had its brains knocked out
because she was unable to carry her load with it at her back, and a man
falling down from fatigue had his head cloven by an axe. When
Livingstone had given what help he could to the bishop, he had a boat
carried to Lake Nyassa, and with his brother and Dr. Kirk made
researches on its waters and among the villages on its beach.
Getting back to the
Pioneer in a weak condition from want of food, they dropped down the
Shire, and anchored at the Great Luabo mouth of the Zambesi. They were
soon employed in the pleasant task of towing in the brig which had
brought Mrs. Livingstone, and the sections of the steamer which
Livingstone had ordered at his own cost for river navigation. The new
vessel, named the Lady Nyassa, was put together at Shapunga, and while
there Mrs. Livingstone was prostrated by fever. Medical aid proved
unavailing, and she died while the sunset of a Sabbath evening was
irradiating the waters and filling the woods with golden glory. A coffin
was made in the night, and the following day Livingstone saw the bright
flower of Kuruman, his beloved Ma-Robert, buried under the branches of a
great baobab tree. Though his heart was crushed by grief, he held
bravely to his work, and organised a boating expedition up the Rovuma.
He was away a month, and when he came back to the Zambesi found that the
waters had risen sufficiently in the Shir6 to allow the passage of the
Lady Nyassa.
The population had been
swept from the valley of the river by slave-agents, and in the record of
the voyage it is said: “ It made the heart ache to see the widespread
desolation: the river-banks once so populous, all silent; the villages
burned down, and an oppressive stillness reigning where formerly crowds
of eager sellers appeared with the various products of their industry.,,
The river swarmed with crocodiles, and in one place sixty-seven were
counted on the bank. Livingstone and his friends thought that if they
could get their vessel on Lake Nyassa they would be able to limit the
depredations of the men-stealers from the coast, and began to make a
road from the cataracts, on which to carry the Lady Nyaxsa in sections.
The difficulties were great as both labourers and provisions were
scarce, and before they could accomplish their object they were recalled
by Lord John Russell. H. M. ship Ariel took the Lady Nyassa in tow to
Mozambique, and Livingstone, with a small crew, navigated her thence to
Bombay, a distance of two thousand five hundred miles. He then embarked
for England, and reached London on July 20th, 1864. Mr. Webb, who had
been a daring and successful hunter, entertained him with generous
hospitality at Newstead Abbey; and where Byron had flashed in the
splendours of a great but perverted genius, he transcribed for the press
his own and his brother’s journals of their African experiences.
He was anxious to solve a
number of problems relating to the water-system of Africa, and to repeat
his efforts for the suppression of the slave-trade. The Royal
Geographical Society seconded his purpose, and the Government appointed
him to act as Her Majesiy’s consul to the tribes of the interior. His
expedition was attended by many trying circumstances: most of his men
deserted him, and some of them affirmed that he had been murdered. The
statement was happily proved to be false; but mystery again enshrouded
him, until he was found by the young American, Stanley, at Ujiji, on
Lake Tanganyika. He was then all but destitute, wearied in body and
depressed in mind, but hope revived in him as he saw the American
colours gleaming amid the foliage; and the cheery voice of Stanley made
him feel young again. Stanley urged him to return home, but he said,
“No; I should bike to see my family very much indeed. My children’s
letters affect me intensely, but I must not go home; I must finish my
task.” He wished to complete his survey of the sources of the Nile, but
his strength failed, and at length he became so weak that he had to be
carried on a native bedstead.
His faithful negro men
built a hut for him at a place called Hala, and beneath its grassy roof,
while kneeling as if in prayer, his soul went up from the Africa he
loved so well to be for evermore in the presence of the Saviour Whom he
had striven to honour in all the movements of his busy and adventurous
life. The dead body, after being dried in the sun, was put in a cylinder
formed of bark, and over the whole a piece of sail-cloth was sewn. Then
the men started with their precious burden for the coast, carrying with
them also the “ Last Journals ” of the great traveller, who, when
writing-paper and ink failed, made use of sheets of old newspaper and
the juice of a tree in recording his observations. Zanzibar was reached
after many adventures, and the body was put on board a ship bound for
England. The general feeling was that Livingstone’s dust should mingle
with that of the illustrious dead in Westminster Abbey.
A grave was opened in
that august and venerable sanctuary, and in the presence of a large and
distinguished company, the coffin was lowered into it. Members of both
Houses of Parliament, and of the great scientific institutions of the
country, men of renown in literature, in philanthropy and religion,
assembled to do honour to the memory of the man who had once been an
operative in the Blantyre factory; but the scene owed much of what was
sublime in it to the venerable head of Robert Moffat and the black face
of Jacob Wainwright, who had watched tenderly over his dying master at
Ilala. The brazen plate on the coffin bore the following simple
inscription:
DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
BORN AT BLANTYRE, LANARKSHIRE, SCOTLAND,
DIED AT ILALA, CENTRAL AFRICA.
4th May, 1873. |