The parish of Neilston is traversed by a great
valley, which, under different names, extends from the level land in
the north-east, where it is bounded by the parishes of Paisley and
Eastwood, to where it marches with the parishes of Dunlop and Beith
in the south-west. The eastern portion of this valley may be
considered as passing through Hurlet, Nitshill, and Darnley, and
here it is between two and three miles wide. From this it gradually
converges as it passes up the stream of the Levern until it reaches
to within about half a mile of Neilston station on the Joint Line of
railway; and at this point it narrows in so rapidly that, by the
time it reaches the station, the trap formations on either side have
met. From this point the outlet of the valley towards the west is
through a comparatively narrow break in the trap, known as Cowden
Glen, which extends south-westward for about a mile, and is about a
hundred feet wide. The boundary of this glen on the north side is a
continuation of the porphyrite traps of Gleniffer Hills, which here
rise as a bold escarpment to the height of about eighty feet; the
southern boundary is a more recent formation of volcanic ash and
tuff, and in it several eruptive dykes have been exposed through the
alteration on the turnpike road rendered necessary by the
construction of the Joint Line to Kilmarnock.
Emerging from this comparatively narrow ravine, the
valley begins gradually to widen out again, passing westward through
Shilford, Loch Libo, Caldwell, and Lugton sections. Beyond Caldwell
it again broadens out, until in the neighbourhood of Lugton, where
it enters into the parishes of Dunlop and Beith, it attains a width
of about three miles and merges into the carboniferous formations of
the Dairy basin. It will thus be seen that, as regards general
outline, the valleys of Levern and Lugton, viewed together, bear
some resemblance to a gigantic sand glass, two or three miles wide
at the eastern and western extremities respectively, but narrowing
to about a hundred feet in the middle, where the trap formations
meet in Cowden Glen. About the west end of* this short glen the trap
suddenly dips, by a fault, to about sixty feet, the depression or
blank thus caused being filled up with boulder clay, whilst the
hollows on the surface are filled up with stratified deposits of
sand, mud, and peat, evidently the remains of an old lake, being one
of a series of lakes, which it appears had at one time occupied the
valley from this point to Caldwell, the present Loch Libo being the
only one of the series now remaining.
Mr. James Binnie, of the Geological Survey of
Scotland, speaking of this formation, says:—“Up to 1867 the
picturesque little valley of Cowden beyond Crofthead on the road to
Ayrshire, was not known to possess any features of special
geological interest, but in that year, having been chosen as the
route of the district railway to Kilmarnock, it was invaded by the
navvy with pick and shovel to the utter destruction of all its
natural beauties. The gradients being steep, the excavations were
extensive, and at one point the bed of an ancient lake was cut
through, containing deposits of mud and peat lying between two
distinct layers of boulder clay. These stratified deposits were
found to contain numerous remains of vegetable and animal life, both
of higher and lower forms.”
In the opening up of these stratified lacustrine
beds, the following fossil fauna were found near to the trap fault
already referred to,— the skull and horn-core of the Bos primigenius (this
interesting relic has now found a home in Caldwell House); part of
the horn of the extinct Irish elk, Mcgctceros hibernicus, and a few
bones of the horse, Equus caballus. The horn-core of the bos prijnus was
lying near the centre of the railway cutting, about six feet from
the surface, while the antlers and fragments of the Irish elk were
about thirty feet further into the hillside, and fifteen feet from
the surface. The fossil flora was represented by, besides mosses and
a sedge Scirpus lacustris, branches of Betulci cdbct, leaves of
the Salix alba, twigs of Calimun vulgaris, and Vaccinum myrtillus.
Through this great valley and closely alongside the
Joint Line Railway, the main turnpike road from Glasgow and Paisley
passes through the parish into Ayrshire, and divides at Lugton into
two principal roads, one leading to Kilmarnock and the other to
Irvine. At the north-eastern boundary of the parish, the Levern
valley as thus defined becomes sub-divided by a thick ridge of
sandstone, which runs from nearly opposite Darnley Hospital to
Barrhead, and along Craigheads, to the west of Barrhead ; and each
sub-valley has its own water course.
This rid ire makes a irreat break in the
carboniferous strata with which the main valley is filled, with the
consequence that the beds on the north side of the ridge are lower
in the series than those exposed on its south, which crop out
against the sandstone, giving a displacement, possibly of about
sixty fathoms, near Darnley. The trough of the southern sub-vallev
narrows towards its termination at Colinbar Glen, near Wraes Mill.
Various beds of sandstone, coalshale, clayshale, oilshale,
ironstone. and others, from a depth of over 175 fathoms, crop out on
either side of the valley against the trap formations, and in some
places lie at such an acute angle to them, as against the Fereneze
ash, as to show that these valley troughs have been formed by the
bursting upwards through their beds of the volcanic eruption, which
now in the form of the trap formation constitutes the northern and
southern hill ranges forming the boundaries already referred to in
the configuration of the parish. The carboniferous limestone of the
valley vields many fossils belonging to the following classes,
viz.:—Plantae, Zoophyta, Echinodermata, Annelida, Crustacea,
Brachiopoda, Lamelli-branchiata, Gasteropoda, Pteropoda, Cephalopoda, and Pisces. During
the recent formation of the Lanarkshire and Ayrshire Railway, which
passes through the parish from its eastern to its western border,
the excavations and cuttings exposed formations very varied in
character; trap and ash tuff, blue and boulder clay, the latter
containing boulders of various sizes—round and sub-angular—amongst
which the writer picked up a small, evidently carried, quartz, which
had a number of small pieces of gold imbedded in it.
f In a field known as the Wellpark, and situated
behind and to the east of Brig o’ Lea, a considerable section of
sand bed was passed through distinctly stratified in character, and
evidently the remains of some ponded up body of water. In the
rock-cutting at the south side of the entrance to Midge Glen, which
was wrought by the contractor as a quarry for ballast until the
railway was quite finished, it was observed that the whinstone was
distinctly columnar in its arrangement when exposed, and at the east
end of the same section, the friable volcanic ash was seen to
underlie the more solid stone, the latter having evidently flowed
out over it when in its liquid condition, as if the froth and ash of
the volcano had first boiled up and overflowed, and been then itself
covered over with the more consistent stream, which ultimately on
cooling formed the bulk of the erupted mass of which the hill is
composed. On Cowdenmoor farm, and about two hundred yards east of
the bridge across the railway, on the road leading from Uplawmoor to
Shilford, and on the south bank of the line, there is exposed a
large boulder well glaciated, the striae having a direction from
north-east to south-west; whilst at the east end of the village of
Uplawmoor, where the line passes through the skirt of the plantation
there, and for some distance westward, under ten feet of peat, a bed
of boulder clay was exposed, laden with boulders of different sizes,
mostly sub-angular, and many of them striated, resting on an outcrop
limestone consisting mostly of fossil shells, and stems of
encrinites at its eastern exposure. In passing through Pollick farm,
westward of Uplawmoor, the formation of the railway was entirely
through limestone, which is continued beyond the boundary of the
parish to the limestone quarries of Lugton and Beith.
At this point I think it proper, as it is connected
with the limestone under consideration, although just beyond the
boundary of the parish, to refer to a very remarkable exposure of
glaciated surface in the lime quarry on Waterland farm at Lugton. In
190G the workmen, for blasting purposes, had to bare the limestone
of a top soil of about eight or nine feet in thickness, and on this
being cleared away there was exposed a broad platform of stone,
having a highly polished and gently undulating surface, with a
slight dip to the south-west. The dimensions of the surface thus
laid bare were about thirty feet by fifteen; but it was observed
that the same character of surface was continued under the still
unremoved soil of the field, to what extent was unknown. The
glaciation of this surface was quite remarkable for its high polish,
and when wet or washed clean, it shone with quite a glassy lustre.
But besides, and constituting a marvellous addition to its interest,
the whole exposure was marked with striations or groovings, some
deeper, some shallower, and many very fine scratchings, but all
clearly and definitely cut in long parallel lines, and all trending
from north-east to south-west, and the undulations on the surface
crossed these striations. At the western end of the exposure, the
natural surface of the stone dipped gently down towards the west,
and was unworn and rough, apparently indicating that the polished
surface represented some boss of rock that had been ground off; and
at places where this terminated somewhat abruptly, there was found
in the depressions, clay, containing bones, boulders, and other
deposits, huddled together. Shining everywhere through this
beautiful surface were the fossil remains of many marine structures,
shells, and crustaceans, cut through at all angles, and the outlines
of very large animals were clearly defined, while bones and teeth
were frequently met with, the whole surface presenting the
unmistakeable evidence of long bvgone and long continued glacial
action. In connection with glacier grooving, it may be further
pointed out, that when the alteration was made in the turnpike road
at the west end of Loch Libo, during the formation of the railway
there in 18G7, on baring the sandstone 011 the south side of the
road, there were several very pronounced gutters exposed in the
surface of the stone, running north-east and south-west. These
markings were about three inches wide, and fully an inch deep. At
the east end of the loch, and near the gravel quarry on the farm,
Head of Side,” there is an “osar,” or sand hill, quite as circular
in form as the track of a circus, “ the fairy ring,” a
relic no doubt of early glacier movement, or a once larger lake than
the present Loch Libo.
In its physical features, most of the land of the
parish may be said to lie along the hill ranges situated south and
north of the Levern valley. As has been already pointed out, this
valley passes through the parish from north-east to south-west, and
the general trend of the hill ranges is in the same direction.
To the north is the Fereneze range, which, by
Capellie, Lochliboside, and Caldwell, continues into Ayrshire. At
Caldwell it spreads out into a broad tableland, having Corkindale
and Caldwell Laws as its most conspicuous elevations, the former
rising to a height of 848 feet, and the latter to 800 feet above the
mean level of the sea. From these heights, spreading in a
north-westerly direction, the land becomes continuous with the
parishes of Lochwinnoch and Beith. To the south of the valley the
land begins to rise from Craigheads at Barrhead, and continues to
increase in elevation as it extends south and west, until it also
spreads out into a broad tableland through moss and rough pasturage
into that of the parishes of Mearns. Stewartou, and Dunlop. In the
direction of Kingston, where the water shedding is reached, the old
turnpike road rises by a succession of long step-like elevations,
which clearly indicate their trap formation.
The most prominent elevations in this westward
progress are the trap formations of Craig of Carnock, on the
borderland of Mearns parish ; Neilston Pad, also of igneous origin;
How-Craigshill, south of Uplawmoor Road; Dumgrain and Knockanae,
both north of Kingston Road;
Cannon Hock and Durduffhill, both south of Kingston
Hoad; Knock-maid, south of Uplawmoor, all rising on igneous
formations more or less interstratified. These hill ranges rise with
a varying but gentle acclivity from the level of the Levern valley
to Kingston, in the parish of Dunlop. In the east of the parish
beyond Barrhead, the valley gradually opens out, and becomes
continuous with the comparatively level land that passes on to the
Clyde; whilst westward through its Lugton section, it reaches the
Firth of Clyde by the broad alluvial lands that stretch onward to
Ardrossan and the Ayrshire coast.
The views that are to be obtained from several of the
most prominent hilltops in the parish are as varied as they are
grand and extensive. From Craig of Carnock, and from its more
gigantic neighbour, The Pad— so named from its fancied resemblance
to the cushion or pad ladies were wont to sit on when riding behind
gentlemen on horseback, a familiar enough practice in the days of
our grandfathers, when vehicles were less common than they are
now—the broad valley through which the Clyde passes, lies spread out
before the observer, from the east of the parish to the Campsie and
Kilpatrick ranges, including Campsie Fell and Glen, with the wide
spreading city of St. Mungo, and the numerous towns and villages
surrounding it stretched out between.
Nor does the broad prospect end here, for in early
spring when the distant sky is clear, and the hilltops of the
Grampians are covered with snow, the whole range from Ben Lomond to
Schiehallion, including Ben Arthur and its neighbours, Ben Cruachan,
Ben More, Ben Lawers, Ben Voirlech, Ben Nevis, and very many others,
come within the extensive prospect.
But the view from the top of Corkindale Law at
Lochliboside, for extent and grandeur, is unsurpassed by any hill of
equal height in Scotland, so wide and varied is the prospect it
affords. Its summit is quite green, and the ascent to it is so
gradual that, 011 reaching it, one can scarcely realize that such a
height has been attained, and if the day is favourable, the labour
entailed in attaining it is amply rewarded, so great is the range of
vision. To the north the Kilpatrick range, and the Vale of Leven,
Loch Lomond, with a number of its islands, and the great Ben Lomond
towering over it, and dominating the whole scene; Ben Ledi, the
“Cobbler,” and a host of other hilltops. Mount Tinto in the east,
with the towns and villages that intervene ; and in the south and
west the fertile lands of Ayrshire, and the coast line down to the
Rhinns of Galloway. Dahnellington and Cumnock hills, the heights of
Kirkcudbright, and the massive range of Saddleback, and Scafell in
England, in the Lake District of Cumberland and AVestmoreland, are
dimly visible, with the Trostan and northern hills of Ireland ;
while in the west and south-west, the grandeur of the prospect is
more immediate. Eglinton Castle in its surrounding woods, the shore
by Ayr bay, Troon, and Ardrossan, Arran, and Ailsa, in their watery
surroundings, while sailing vessels and gigantic ocean liners on the
waters of the firth give animation to the scene. With Kilbirnie
hills, Mistylaw, and the heights of Kilmacolm in the nearer view,
altogether they make up a prospect of unsurpassed interest and
grandeur. |