In Scotland equally with England, the division of the
land into parishes would appear to have been of ecclesiastical
origin, forming probably in both countries the sub-divisions of the
diocesan territory of a bishop, connected with the particular church
of the established religion, for the support of which tithes within
the boundary would be allocated; and there is reason to believe this
division, so far at least as Scotland is concerned, took place about
the beginning of the thirteenth century. But it is obvious that
before a township could become the centre of a parochial district
requiring such ecclesiastical supervision, the people must have
advanced a long way on the road to civilization.
I am not aware of any record as to the precise period
at which the division into parishes took place in this county,
although it was probably about the time of King David I. There may,
however, have been some recognised territorial division at a much
earlier date, as Abbot Ailred, in describing the success of Saint
Ninian’s preaching among the Piets of Galloway, among other things
represents him as ordaining priests, consecrating bishops,
conferring the other dignities of ecclesiastical orders, and finally
dividing the whole land into parishes—totam terram per certas
parochias dividere. (Apud Pinkerton, Vit. Sanct. Scot., p. 11; Origines
Parochiales Scotice, p. 20.) But too much importance is not to be
attached to this statement, as the word schira is often equivalent
to parish in church records. {Idem.)
But it is quite in harmony with their ecclesiastical
origin, that the earliest notice we have of Neilston is in
connection with the Church. In 1163, Walter, the great High Steward
of Scotland, founded the Abbey of Paisley. This Walter was the
great-grandson of the first Stewart, i.e., of Alan Dapifer or
Steward of Dol, in France, and son of Allan, who, in accordance with
the customs of the period, had gone on a pilgrimage to the Holy
Land, circa 1097. His family had received marked distinction from
the ruling kings of the time, and he had been appointed steward of
the royal household, with large grants of land,
Kyle in Ayrshire, and Strathgryfe, the ancient barony
of Renfrew, etc. This Walter seemed to have found great favour in
the eyes of King David L, who, for “signal though unstated
services,” advanced him to be “Senescallus Scotioe” (Lord High
Stewart of Scotland). From this office the family assumed the
surname of Stewart. The founding of the Abbey in Paisley naturally
exercised a great influence over the surrounding country, which
ultimately reached the parish of Neilston, for by the early part of
the thirteenth century, the church of Neilston belonged to the Abbey
of Paisley. Robert De Croc Lord de Neilston of a very ancient
family, which possibly came to this country with Walter the Steward,
and designated of Crockston and Darnley, would appear to have held
some right in the church property. This claim he however renounced,
and all right to patronage, in the presence of Walter the High
Steward, in favour of the monks of Paisley, pro salute animce suce—for
the safety of his soul.
In addition to the Croc family, it would appear that
Walter the High Steward gave the lands of Levern to Henry de Nes,
but there is little subsequent reference made to this settlement. He
was one of the Steward’s retainers.
The Origin of the Name.
The origin of the npne Neilston has given rise to a
good deal of controversy, but it does not seem to have resulted in
anything more definite than has always been traditionally the
opinion of the “oldest inhabitants,” namely, that it owes its origin
to an officer or commander of the name of Neil, who, having been
killed in the vicinity, had a cairn or stone erected to his memory,
as was the custom of the age when commemorating the death of
venerated leaders; a custom common enough throughout Scotland,
especially in the north and west; and fine specimens of such may be
seen in the neighbourhood of Roy Bridge, and other places in the
West Highlands, as relics of the days of the clansmen.
It is, of course, open to the explanation that the
name may have been derived from some person of the name of Neil, who
first began to lay off property, for farm or other building, in the
neighbourhood, as it was and is still quite customary to call a
property or hamlet by the name of its first or principal proprietor.
This would quite, orthographically, account for the name Neilston.
In point of fact, this has been the case in other parts of our
immediate neighbourhood, where what is now part of Barrhead, but
which until within a few years ago stood as a hamlet by itself, and
was named Grahamston, from the name of the proprietor on whose land
the properties were first built.
This is the view favoured by the late Rev. Dr.
Fleming, of Neilston, in his contribution to the New Statistical
Account of Scotland, and that also of the Rev. John Menteath,
sometime minister of the parish, in his account of it in Sir John
Sinclair’s Statistical Account of Scotland, in which he says:—“It is
originally supposed that the names of such parishes as end in the
syllable ‘town’ or ‘ton,’ are derived from proper names. Perhaps
some person of the name of Neil had either fixed his residence, or
having been killed in battle, had a stone erected on his grave.
Either circumstance might occasion the name Neilstown or Neilston,
being given to the district. Doubtless, these conditions would meet
the necessities of the case, but there is something to be said in
favour of the stone theory.
Crawfurd, in his History of Renfrewshire, referring
to the tradition of such a stone, says:—“They report that in ancient
times a battle was fought (I suppose about the year 1012), where
Malcolm II. killed Grimus or Duff, his predecessor, in battle, when
an officer called Neil, being one of the leaders of the army, had
the hard fate to be there slain. He was buried at a place called
Kirkton, where a stone was set to perpetuate his memory; which stone
was afterwards called Neil’s stone. And from that the place was
called Neilston,” and adds that “the stone is still standing.”
Before proceeding further with this argument, I would draw attention
to the fact that the “Good King Duncan,” whose murder by Macbeth
forms the groundwork of Shakespeare’s great tragedy of that name,
was the grandson and successor to the throne of Scotland, to this
King Malcolm II. incidentally introduced into the narrative by
Crawfurd.
At the top of the first rise on Kingston Road, known
as “ Cross-stane-Brae,” about three hundred yards outside the town
to the southwest, tradition has it—and in such matters this is often
the only kind of evidence forthcoming, not, however, to be despised
on that account—that within the memory of men of the last century,
there was a “ standing stone ” at the roadside with a history, an
important stone, no less than the name “ stone” of our town and
parish. For it had in some way got to be connected with the origin
of the name of the town, and was believed to indicate the vicinity
of a burial tumulus raised over one Neil, a chief who had been
killed at a very early period in a skirmish or battle in the
neighbourhood. Of the existence of the stone on the roadside, there
is no reasonable doubt ; the writer had the pleasure of talking with
a venerable acquaintance who quite well remembered seeing it in his
youth. But it is not to be overlooked that as the rising ground on
which it stood is designated the Cross-stane-brae, and it is well
known that during early Catholic times devotional crosses were
erected by the wayside in country districts to arrest the
traveller’s attention, it is within the scope of the possible that
the stone referred to may have been the base and shaft or some such
relic of a pre-Reformation roadside cross. In harmony with and so
far confirmatory of the tradition that some special stone stood here
in early times, is the fact that the field (which is on Ivirkton
farm), alongside of the road to the south at this point, is
designated in feu-contracts “Stonefield Park.” But in any case the
stone is now gone, having been broken up by blasting about the
beginning of last century, and built into the house known as
“Murdoch-moor,” on the road-side a little to the south-west of the
rising ground on which it is said to have stood. This act of
vandalism is reported to have been the occasion of high feeling in
the district at the time, and the contractor or his representative
on the work is said to have narrowly escaped punishment at the hands
of the natives.
The Boundaries of the Parish.
The parish of Neilston is bounded on the north by
that of Paisley, the two parishes having a common boundary for about
eight miles; on the east by Eastwood parish; on the south by Mearns
and Stewarton ; on the south-west by Dunlop; on the west by Beith;
and on the west by north by Lochwinnoch. By a re-adjustment of
boundaries, which took place in 1895, between the parishes of
Neilston, Dunlop, and Beith, after the coming into force of the
County Councils Act of 1889, the county and parish boundaries were
made conterminous as affecting these three parishes.
Situation and Extent of the Parish.
The parish of Neilston lies in latitude 55° 47' 15"
north, and in longitude 4° 21' 35" west, and by Ordnance Survey of
Scotland, 1858, contains 12,862,202 acres, —12,268,775 acres being
the area of land, 192-493 acres being taken up as roads, 381,197
acres being under water, and 19,737 acres being then taken up by
railways. Since this survey, the re-adjustment of boundaries and the
extension of the railways may have produced some little alteration
of the acreage under lands and railways, but for all practical
purposes, these figures represent the extent of land surface in the
parish. The parish at one time included the baronies of Knockmaid
and Shutterflat within its boundaries, but these have long ago been
annexed, the former to Dunlop, and the latter to Beith parishes.
This question of the extent of the parish has been
much wrangled over, and is very differently stated in the New, and
in Sir John Sinclair’s Statistical Account of Scotland. In the
former it is said to be by measurement, 8½ miles in length, and 4½
fully in breadth, and to contain 36 square miles or 24,320 imperial
acres ; whilst in the latter, it is said to be 9 miles from east to
west, and on an average 3 miles in breadth, and allowing 503 Scots
to an English square mile, it contains 13,570 acres. There must have
been mistakes somewhere when the two able writers just named could
arrive at such diverse conclusions. It is difficult to think they
were working from the same data.
The General Configuration of the Parish.
The land, from the eastern boundary of the parish,
where it joins that of Eastwood and Paisley, until it reaches
Barrhead, is comparatively level, being only gently undulating. From
Barrhead it gradually rises by a series of hills, which are
continued on past Neilston to the south and west until, by various
gradients, it reaches its highest elevation on the four roads
leading into Ayrshire, respectively by Kingston, Moyne, Uplawmoor,
and Shilford. These elevations constitute also the common
water-shed, from which the great majority of the streams flow
eastward through the parish, to join ultimately the waters of the
White Cart, the only exception being the Lugton, which flows
westward to the Irvine, from Loch Libo.
The land to the north of the Levern valley passes
through the parish from east to west as a hill range, under the
various designations of Fereneze and Capellie Hills, Lochlibo-side,
and Corkindale and Caldwell Laws, and varies in altitude from
about 500 to 800 feet at the last-named hills. From this it extends
backwards as a tableland of moss, heather, and moorland pasture, to
the common boundary with the parish of Lochwinnoch. Through this
moorland tract the road passes from Paisley by Meikleriggs and
Gleniffer to Caldwell, and thence to Beith, skirting the south side
of Caplaw or Hartfield Dam. with cross road connections from
Johnstone and Lochwinnoch by way of Peesweep and Greenfield moor to
Neilston. The highest points of this hill range are, as already
stated, Corkindale Law, 848 feet, and Caldwell Law, 800 feet above
the mean level of the sea ; from these altitudes respectively the
land gradually trends towards Shutterfiat moor, where it marches
with the parish of Beith.
To the south of the Levern valley, the land rises by
a series of elevations over the interstratified trappean formations,
till it joins the boundaries of the parishes of Mearns, Stewarton,
and Dunlop, in the south and south-west at Moyne and Mearns-moor in
the neighbourhood of the Long Loch, from which as a broad tableland
it spreads out over a very irregular surface, amidst extensive
surroundings of peat-moor, heather, and meadow pasture, possessing a
somewhat wild and shaggy aspect, amidst which, on the border of the
parish of Stewarton, is the extinct volcano of Blacklaw, 787 feet,
which has a remarkably well defined crater.
The Long Loch, through which the parish boundary in
this direction passes, is situated amid these moorland surroundings.
In this loch the river Levern takes its origin, whence its channel
divides the elevated plateau obliquely in a north-east direction,
until it reaches the valley of the Levern. This, the principal
stream in the parish, will be more fully described when dealing with
the rivers.
The great trappean formation included in these
northern and southern divisions of the parish, constitute the rocky
framework within which are all the lochs, rivers, valleys, streams,
and glens, that we shall meet with in the course of our narrative,
and which give character and climate to our district of the county.
In mineral composition and other respects, they are very similar to
trap hills found in other parts of Renfrewshire, and evidently
belong to the same period of volcanic activity. At various points,
it is seen along the hill ranges that the lower part of the
formation consists of greenish grey and reddish brown beds of
volcanic ash, whilst greenstone and felstone porphyrite compose
their higher parts.
Mineralogy.
Coal and iron and lime are to be found in different
parts of the parish. The former mineral was wrought profitably for
many years at Uplawmoor and neighbourhood, and within the policies
west of Caldwell. “At Boylestone Quarry, Barrhead, it is said, fine
specimens of prenhite, of a rich greenish colour, are to be found,
the green colour of the mineral being due to its surface being
coated with a green carbonate of copper, which is found upon the
prenhite in the form of small round mammilated crystals. Native
copper is also found in thin sheets in the same place, lining
fissures and cavities in the trap. It is not very abundant, but
there have been specimens found weighing several ounces.” The writer
has a specimen weighing 2½ ounces, and has seen much larger pieces
which have been procured from the same source. “Native copper is of
rather rare occurrence in Britain, having been found in only a few
localities.” Very small quantities of native gold have been obtained
from a quartz vein in the rock formation which crosses between the
upper and lower division of Killoch Glen. Various zeolites are also
to be got in Boylestone Quarry.
Precious Stones and Metals.
The following precious stones have at different times
been obtained from the tuff, or trap ash, on the south side of
Cowden Glen :—striped onyx; spar, covered with arsenite of copper;
amethyst, jasper, cornelian, bismuth, native galena, garnet,
blood-stone. |