Until within recent years, but little if any attention was
given to the remains of man in the Isle of Mull. The very few who have
engaged in this exploration have unearthed enough of the remains to prove
that Mull is also a wonderful isle in this field. No great nor striking
monuments have been discovered, but in numbers and variety, it will rank
well with almost any other region. If the inhabitable territory be
considered, then the numbers and variety of remains must be regarded as
remarkable. The importance of this field has slowly struggled for
recognition.
Dr. Macculloch, in 1818, in his “Western Isles” (Vol. I. p.
535) wrote:
“Uninteresting and inconspicuous as are in general the
antiquities which occur in the islands hitherto described-, those to be seen
in Mull are still more rare and less deserving of notice. The enumeration of
cairns, barrows, or gravestones is indeed fruitless and scarcely capable of
furnishing amusement to the mere antiquary. Nor does any monument of this
nature seem here to exist worthy of investigation or research.”
Even the “Statistical Account of Arygleshire,” published as
late as 1845 shows a want of interest and information on the subject. The
report for the parish of Kilfinichin and Kilviceuen, only makes the
following statements:
“In the parish there are many of the round towers ol
Norwegian or Danish origin; these are all upon the sea-coast and in sight of
one another. They are small; most of them would not contain twenty men.
There are, in many parts of the parish, long stones standing on end.”
There is nothing specific here, and it may refer to adjacent
isles of Mull. But further along;
“The Druids are said to have had a temple at the head of
Loch-Scridain, on a farm called Rossal. . . This temple is but small,
and several stones have fallen down.” The report for the parish of Kilninian
and Kilmore reads that “On the height above Kilmore, there are five large
stones disposed in a kind of circular form, and supposed to have been a
place of worship in the time of Druidism.”
The parish of Torosay found nothing worthy of mention. The
reports, however, make a little improvement on the “Statistical Accounts”
published in 1791-5, which only mentions that the Druids had a temple at the
head of Loch Scridain, on a farm called Rossal. The temple is small.
In 1864, Rev. Thomas MacLauchlan read a paper before the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland (Vol. V. p. 46) entitled “Notice of
Monoliths in the Island of Mull.” He gives a map showing localities of the
monoliths on the Ross of Mull.
To the same Society (Vol. X. p. 594), Prof. J. W. Judd
communicated a paper headed “Notes on some Ancient Chapels and other Remains
in the Island of Mull.” Small space is given to “Megaliths &c.” in the
region of Tobermory. He further adds “Barrows, cairns, and hut circles are
by no means rare in Mull,” and then drops the subject.
By far the most valuable paper on the antiquities of Mull
which has come under my observation, is that of Prof. John Duns,
communicated to same Society (Vol. XVII. pp, 79, 337), entitled “Notes on
North Mull.” These papers do not give figures or drawings of the remains.
In 1913 the County Council of Argyll published a “List of
Ancient Monuments and Historic Buildings in the County of Argyll,” which
forms a good working basis.
Standing Stones: Standing Stones are divided' into Monolithis
and Megalithic, both of which, by some authors have been ascribed to the
Druids. It is more than probable that both long antedate that form of
religion. Both the monolithic and megalithic may belong to the same age and
people, and again the monolith may antedate the megalithic, and assigned to
different races. The encroachment of a later people might establish their
structures in the midst of the ruins of an older tribe or race. Hence in
this connection the subject will be viewed under one head.
In the outline sketch made by Mr. MacLauchlin giving the
location of the monolithes on the Ross of Mull, he places eight marks
between the extreme point of Mull and Penny-cross House, all bordering the
shore of Loch Scridain. These stones are rough, unhewn, and standing about
six feet high, and distant apart about one half mile. One stone may be seen
from the other. The first stood near the point where the ferry proceeds to
Iona. It stood alone. In the early part of the last century the series was
complete. Some have disappeared. A vagrant turned over some of them in hopes
to find buried treasure beneath, and the largest and finest was broken up by
quarrymen in 1864. This was the first of the series above the ancient ferry,
and was called “An Caitchean-nach Mor,” the Great Stone of the Common,
probably owing to the neighboring land being called “The Common” for the
reason that the pasture immediately around the ferry had been left open for
the benefit of pilgrims visiting the sacred isle of Iona. Among the natives
there was a tradition that these monoliths were guide-posts to strangers
visiting Iona on pilgrimages; and that at one time the series extended
through the whole of Mull to the Green Point, or the spot where the ferry
led to Kerrera, and, further the stones now existing are but the remnants of
the ancient series. It is possible that pilgrims journeyed by this route,
but that would not prove, the supposition, even though there should be no
other monoliths in the island. The tradition was simply a theory.
Turning to the northern part of Mull ancient remains are
various. Halfway between Tobermory and Salen is a monolith located on a
cultivated slope nearly six hundred feet above the sea, on a farm' called
Ardnacroiss. It is composed of compact bluish trap, and measures nine feet
and four inches in height, three feet and ten inches in breadth at the
surface of the slope, one foot and four inches at the same, and gradually
tapers to a blunt top. Its position has a commanding view. Not far removed,
but to the north and higher up the slope of Tom Peroch (808 feet), is a
stone five feet long, three and a half feet broad, and nearly as thick,
lying near the edge of a circle, thirty feet in diameter, with several large
stones lying near. The broad end of the stone lies up.
About three hundred yards from the house of Ardnacroiss, in a
low valley bordering on the Sound of Mull, is a circle fifteen feet in
diameter, with a rim consisting of upright stones placed close together.
Five of the uprights, which appear to be deeply seated in the ground are
three and one fourth feet in height above the surface. Three are a little
shorter, and widely separated by still lower stones which intervene. The
center is a heap of small stones, two feet deep the largest being about six
inches in diameter. These have been gathered up in the neighborhood.
Although this circle is not a half mile from the Ardnacroiss standing stone,
yet cannot be observed from it.
About half a mile south of Tobermory are the Standing Stones
of Baliscate, located on a broken terrace, some two hundred feet in height.
These stones are three in number, two upright and one prostrate. The larger
upright is eight feet high, ten feet in girth near the surface of the
ground, and half way up the stone ten feet, four inches, when it begins to
lessen until at the top it is a foot across. The smaller upright is
quadrangular in shape, five feet four inches high and two feet four inches
thick. The prostrate stones, like the others, is of blue trap, and eight
feet nine inches long. The two uprights are fourteen and one half feet
apart. These stones appear to be the remains of a regular stone circle.
In an upland mountain valley, above and east of the vil-vage
of Dervaig, are the standing stones of Kilmore, commanding a very wide,
varied and grand view. They occur in a hollow surrounded by a number of trap
bosses, and form part of a circle, fifty feet in diameter. They are five in
number and as approached from the highway, the first is prostrate, and is
seven feet six inches long and two feet five inches thick. The next is
twenty-two feet distant; is an upright; eight feet three inches high and two
feet thick. The next is distant eight feet eight inches and prostrate,
measuring in length seven feet and nine inches long and two feet thick. The
fourth, distant five feet eight inches, is an upright, eight feet high and
two feet thick. The fifth is distant eight feet four inches, is prostrate
and is eleven feet long and three inches thick.
On the extreme north of Mull, at Sorn, are three stones, only
one being upright. Its height is seven feet, and one foot four inches thick.
One of the prostrate is eight feet ten inches broad, and ten inches thick;
and the other is eight feet eight inches long, and one foot nine inches
broad by one foot two inches thick. All are of trap. Near them is a circular
heap of considerable size, made up of rather large stones, and rests on the
seaward edge of a fine natural amphitheatre about a quarter of a mile
across. Close by the circle is a small hill, from the summit of which a
magnificent view opens up. To the north, Ardnamurchan, Muck, Eigg, Rum and
the Cuchcullin of Skye; to the northwest; south Uist and Barra; to the west,
Coll and Tyree, and to the northeast, the mountain ranges in Morar and
Knoydort. Close by is Glengorm House.
All the circles in this part of Mull are located in positions
commanding a wide, varied and magnificent view. In some instances a standing
stone is met with in the neighborhood of the circle, but where this occurs
the stone cannot be seen from the circle.
Near the foot of the steepest part of the Torloisk road,
about a mile to the west of Kilninan Church stands a stone measuring five
feet six inches high, breadth two feet, and thickness one half foot. The
view from this relic is not wide. There is a standing stone at Killiechronan,
one at Achmohr, one in Drumaluagwood (both owned by J. W. Melles of Grulin).
The standing stones are not buried in the earth, but have
sunk to a depth, but little exceeding one foot. The object of these pillars
and the stone circles has afforded much speculation. The latest theory
defines that the stones are but part of the remains of houses, and during
the succeeding ages most of the walls have been carted away. The walls of
these structures were made of flat blocks, and the upright pillars acted as
binders running up through the foundation masonry of the uncemented walls.
It is possible that stone implements of various kinds have
been found in the immediate vicinity of the monoliths, but the evidence is
not conclusive.
Duns: The ruins, known as duns, brochs, and hill-forts have
elicited much attention and speculation. Various recent writers have noticed
them. On a slight eminence to the west of Tobermory, and on the left of the
road to Sorn, is situated Dhun Ghirgeadail. It is circular and occupies the
greater part of the top of the low hill. It covers a space thirty-seven feet
in diameter, with walls eleven feet in thickness. A porlion of the wall,
nearly five feet high still stands, and affords a good illustration of the
mode of building. The outer and inner faces of the wall are composed of well
selected blocks of large size, and the irregular spaces between the meeting
of these stones are neatly filled in with flat-edged small stones, while the
center is made up with irregular stones thrown in. Within the building close
to the east wall is a square hollow, roughly built on three sides,
containing numbers of shells of whelks (Littorinae) and limpets (Patellidae),
some of the latter being unusually large. No other shells found. The deposit
consists of alternate layers of shells and stones.
On the shore at Torloisk are two circular works, one called
Dhun a Goil, at Ballygown, opposite the Sound of Ulva, and the other Dhun
Eiskean, on the farm of Burg, three miles from Torloisk House, standing on a
rugged eminence opposite the isle of Gometra. This latter is thirty-four
feet six inches in diameter and the walls six feet thick, the thickness
decreasing as they rise. The present height is seven feet, and on the
summit, traces of loopholes appear. In the northwest of the wall is the
doorway neatly constructed of stone. At present the door is clear to a depth
of three feet, the rest being filled in with large stones which prevent
measurement. The lintel is an oblong slab of trap five feet eleven and a
half inches long and one foot thick. The corresponding stone on the inside
five feet and a half long. The passage is three feet ten inches broad. In
the wall opposite the door is a narrow opening into the center, where
passages occur to the right and left, very narrow at first, but widening as
they extend. All the wall at the same height from the ground appears to
be-chambered. This work takes in a view of the Ben More range of mountains,
and the opening of Loch na keal, the; Sound of Ulva, Ulva itself and Gometra.
On a hill a short way above Glen Aros House, near Sa-len, may
be seen the remains of a magnificent fort called Caisteal na Sreainga. The
shape is sub-oval, following the contour of the hill. The longer axis is
eighty-eight feet and the shorter fifty-three; thickness of walls ten and
one-half feet, and highest part of wall, still standing, four and one half
feet. This work originally must have been massive and strong. The stone that
forms the facings of the inner and outer walls is, for the most part, large,
and imply skillful labor in placing it in position, and would do credit to
any workman of the present age. The body of the. wall consists of much
smaller stones loosely thrown in. This stone is round, for the most part,
and composed of trap, quartz, gneiss, granite, which must have been gathered
up from the surrounding surface, where left during the glacial age.
Dhunara Castle, on the estate of Glen Gorm, owned by Miss
Margaret Lithgow, stands on a precipitous rock close to the sea and about
four hundred yards from the Sorn standing stones. The fort is forty feet
long by nineteen feet broad, inside measurement. The wall is three and one.,
half feet broad, and at several points still three to four feet high. The
stone facing the inside and outside the wall has a flat equal surface and
was placed with great care. It is bedded with shore sandy debris, consisting
principally of finely comminuted shells, which had been formed into a pack
by the use of sea water, and when dried became a hard cement.
On other parts of Dhunara hill are the foundations of two
smaller structures, nineteen feet by ten feet severally. There is also a
large artificial hollow but without traces of a connected building.
It is positively known that stone was taken from the
pre-historic buildings, and used for the construction of cottages, because
some of the stones have bits of the natural lime still clinging to them. The
workmanship on these cottages contrast very unfavorably with that of the
fort.
The whole area of the top of the rock, which is very
irregular in outline, is one hundred and nine feet at the broadest part and
sixty-nine feet at the narrowest. Access to the summit is by a deep narrow
way in the rock, wide enough for one man only.
Dun Fuaraidh, on the Ordnance Map, is placed, and located
five hundred yards southeast of Duard Castle. This is the only dun on the
map along the whole east coast of Mull. Further information not given.
The earliest notice, I have seen of the remains of Rossal is
in the “Statistical Account” 1791-6. It simply ascribes the work to the
Druids, calling it a temple, and says it is small. The “Statistical Account”
for 1845 refers it to the Druids, says it was a temple and it “is but small,
and several of the stones have fallen down”. This work is on the farm of
Rossal, some miles inland from the head of Loch Scridain. I have seen no
description of this work.
In the very snout of the great headland of Burg there is a
structure known to the people as Dun Bhuirg. At Sgopoll, on the northern
shore of Loch Scridain there is an ancient broch. In a westerly direction
from the old church yard of Kilviceun, Ross of Mull, is a hill called Dun a
Gheird, which is crowned with ruined walls, of an ancient Dun. It is on the
south coast, near the sea, and commands an extensive view. Between it and
the extreme end of the Ross there are five other similar works, holding
prominent positions along the sea-board. These are called Dun Chiab-haig,
Dun an Fhiarain, Dun Chuilein, and Dun Torrain. Apparently Dun an Fhiarain
was the strongest of the number. On either side of the portals are two
colossal stones..
Often mentioned, and always without description are two
earns, one called Carn Cul ri Albainn, located on the top of Mam Chlachaig,
one of the range of hills to the north of Glen More, and the other Carn Cul
ri Eirinn, on the other side of the glen. Another account places them; on
top of Pap between Loch Bua and Coilaclois River, which flows into Loch
Scridain. Skene ascribes the origin of these two earns as marking the
dividing line between the kingdom of the Piets and the kingdom of the Scots
of Dal-riada. This theory is susceptible to many objections.
Castles: In all probability Dunara, and Ghirgeadail were
constructed for defense and should be classed among the castles. The works,
known as castles, are Duard, Aro,s. and Moy. Of the origin of these works,
there is no history, but their architecture has led to the belief that they
are oi Norse origin.
Duard Castle: Located on the extreme northeastern point of
Mull, on a cliff one hundred feet above the sea, and from all directions it
is quite conspicuous. For about one hundred and fifty years it was in
partial ruin, but is now completely restored. The construction of the Castle
belongs to two separate and distinct historical periods. The earlier, or
Norse, is a tower, composed of three stories, the whole being about fifty
feet high, the architecture corresponding with that of the thirteenth
century. Its walls on two sides are fourteen feet thick, and the other sides
ten, the interior being forty-four by twenty-two feet. The stairway winds
up. through the wall which separates it from the more recent addition. In
the wall, along the course of the stair, are crenells opening into the outer
court or square. The tiers or stories, or apartments are supported by beams,
resting upon corbels. The windows are deep recesses, forming acute angles
towards the entrance of light, and on either side of the window is a long
flat stone, resting upon rubble work, raised to the height oif the seat of
an ordinary chair. The windows on the ground floor have the deep round
arched recesses. The top of the wall has a battlement and crenelated
parapet, and there are indications of corbelled bartizans at the angles. The
doorway faced the east at the northern .wall, and was strengthened by a
sliding bar. Between the years 1527 and 1568, Hector MacLean, the Chiefs of
the Clan, made that addition known as The Great Tower. Its length is* one
hundred and twenty-six feet, and breadth seventy-nine, and roof thirty-eight
and a half feet high. There are three stories. The dungeon on the first, and
the magazine in tn*e court yard. It is entered by a doorway from the south,
and originally covered by a postern gate, with portcullis, barbican. This
castle was one of the most extensive and powerful in the west Highlands, and
its position gives it a commanding appearance as one approaches it from the
sea. Before it to the south is a plain, terminating at the foot of the
mountains. From its summit a view is obtained in all directions, which is
magnificent in its beauty.
Aros Castle: I have been unable to learn scarcely any thing
concerning Aros Castle. It is now reduced to two of its original walls and
part of a third. The castle is eighty feet by forty; walls are seven feet
thick. It is located in a very picturesque manner on the summit of a rocky
hill, and overlooks the Bay of Aros. A spacious esplanade stretches out in
front of the rock. From the ruins an imposing view of the interior of the
island is obtained. It was one of the castles of the Lords of the Isles, and
here the royal court at times was held. Of the origin of the castle there
appears to be no knowledge, though it is supposed to have been built by the
Lords of the Isles.
Another old castle rests on Glenara hill, called Caisteal
Cnoc na Groille. There is an old story that stone from this castle was used
in constructing Aros castle. The way of removing the stone was by placing a
line, of men from the upper castle to Aros, and then handing down the stones
from one to the other.
Moy Castle (Caisteal nan Maoidh,—castle of threatening) is
located on a low rock nearly midway across the head of Loch Buy, and at high
tide the base of the rock is washed by the sea. The castle is one of the
best preserved in the Hebrides. Its roof was removed by Captain Murdoch
Gillian, twenty-first MacLean of Loch Buy, who needed the material for
another building. For the most part it is built of flat, stones, thoroughly
cemented together being broadest at the base. The entrance faces the north,
and is protected by a wooden door, which swings inward; and in turn is
guarded by an iron grating on hinges, which again is secured by a wooden
beam built in the wall, which may be moved at will, but can not be taken out
of the wall. In the wall, at the west, was a recess where the gateman was
stationed. The first floor of the castle is a solid rock, in the center of
which is a basin four feet in depth, and is always full of water, but never
overflows. Where the water comes from is unknown. In the east wall is a
passage-way leading to the stairs, which passes through the east wall to the
southeast corner of the second story. From that point upwards the stairway
is spiral, in the wall, and all the steps of stone. Over the first
passage-way, and in the wall, is the vault which held the dead during the
funeral obsequies. The second and third floors are supported by stone
arches. The second story was the judgment hall, and just off from it, and
within the east wall, is the chapel, that is reached by a door-way from the
spiral stairs. In the southwest corner is the dungeon, extending within the
wall from the second floor down to the level of the ground floor. It does
not admit of a ray of light, and is so constructed as to contain water, and
on the floor is placed a single stone, upon which the prisoner must stand or
else drown. Where this water comes from is unknown. There is an escape to
prevent an overflow. The third floor was the banqueting hall. The floors of
the fourth and fifth stories were of wood. Here chimneys, fire places, and
windows may be seen. The height of the castle is fifty-five feet, and on the
north and south sides, the walls on the exterior, are thirty-two feet; on
the east and west sides, thirty-seven feet. At all places the walls are
seven feet in thickness. This castle is supposed to be of Norse origin.
Druidical Circle: On the ground level with that on which Loch
Buy House stands, and a short distance removed from it is a circle formed of
low mounds. It has been called a Druidical Circle. The notes I took on the
spot have been lost. The work has been referred to in different
publications.
Circular Houses: Among antiquarians the circular houses
have been a fruitful field for speculation, and learned discussion. The
various theories set forth will not be considered. A brief statement must
suffice of the facts in the case. Speaking generally, it may be said that
this class of works is circular in form, and often located in out of the way
places and difficult of access. The circular wall without mortar is the
prevailing type. This style of architecture may have been chosen because a
circular stone wall is stronger and more lasting than one of a straight
line. The foundation rests upon the level surface of the ground, and the
wall is generally of great thickness. Often walls of twenty feet in
thickness, enclose a chamber of no more than ten or twenty feet in diameter.
The average height is difficult to determine, because we now have but the
sparse remains or mere foundations. If we are to judge by the broch at
Glenelg, with walls ten feet in thickness, and a height of more than thirty
feet, these works were more formidable than one would be inclined to
conclude. Doorways in these buildings were very much hidden, and sometimes
only entered through underground passage-ways. Doorways are found to be not
over two and one half or three and one half feet in width. In the Western
Isles of Scotland, the average of the central chamber varies, from
twenty-five to thirty feet in diameter, and in some other locations much
greater. Some have been found with interior circular walls and chambers
within the outer walls. No written history remains of these ruins. Their
antiquity is guess work. Some ascribe a very remote antiquity, while others
bring the period of their usefulness between the years 300 and 1000 A. D.
The buildings were human habitations, and conformed to the times. There is
no special reason why they should be made for retreats during invasion. They
were built under the general rule of protection. The people who built them
were natives of the soil, and hence it may be said they were the homes of
the Picts.
Cairns: Structures sometimes called Cairns often owe their
bulk and present appearance to the downfall of what had once been its outer
walls. Within this mass may be found the original layers of concentric
walls.
It has long been common to ascribe ancient circles to Druid
origin, notwithstanding the fact that this order did not use stone circles
as temples, and no record has been produced which states anything whatever
of men of any religion choosing to worship within a circle of naked stones.
Stone Coffins: Certain publications state that stone coffins
are frequently met with. The only ones specified, so far as I know, are the
following: In removing earth from the foundation of the new Free Church at
Salen, there was found several half-length coffins formed very rudely of
loose stones, in one of which was a small urn , which by accident was
broken. It was found about twenty-two feet from the surface, in a sharp
gravelly soil. With it were a flint and two small pieces of metal. The “New
Statistical Account”, 1845, says that within the parish of Torosay “there
have been, within the last ten years, stone coffins found in different parts
of the parish, where excavations have been made for building or road-making.
Some of them contained a few bones, some ashes, and some a small quantity of
black mould.”
Craiinogs: The discoveries of ancient dwellings in the lakes
of Switzerland during the winter of 1853-4, and the thorough study of them
made by Dr. Ferdinand Keller, developed a great interest, in such remains.
In Ireland, where remains of this kind have been found in considerable
numbers, special reports have been made, occuring in Leitrim, Roscommon,
Cavan and Tyrone. They take the form of artifical islands and are called
crannogs.
Lake Dwellings are first mentioned in history by Herodotus,
who speaks of a curious habitation in Lake Prasias, which was impregnable to
all the military resources of a Persian army. Hippocrates also tells us that
this type of habitation was employed in his day by the Phasians, who sailed
to them in single-tree canoes. In 1567, O’Neil, in Ireland, raised “the
strongest castles of all his countryes, and fortifications which he only
dependeth upon is in sartin ffreshwater loghes in his country, which from
the sea there come neither ship nor boat to approach them: it is thought
that there in the said fortified islands lyeth all his plate, which is much,
and money, prisoners and gayes.”
The crannogs were first brought to notice in 1857, altho
there had previously been scattered references to piled islands, some of
which had been recorded for many years.
The platform of the crannogs- of Scotland were strengthened
by driving piles into the lake, before beginning to erect the structure.
Shallow places in the loch were chosen. If on an island where the earth was
soft or muddy logs were used, and then strengthened with stone.
All the lochs of Mull, of any size reveal the remains of
these habitations. Notices have been made of those in Lochs Assapol, Frisa
and Ba. In Loch Ba, belonging to the estate of J. W. Melles, of Grulin, is
one in the shape of a small island and remains of two others below the level
of the loch. The only crannog that has received special attention is the one
formerly in Loch na Mial, about a mile south of Tobermory, and about one
hundred and fifty feet above sea level. This loch contained fifty acres.
This loch was drained about the year 1868. The depth of water was about six
feet. Under the water the mud was of great depth. Four feet under the
surface of the mud, a canoe of black oak was found, seventeen feet long and
three and one half feet beam, quite fresh and sound. Also several other
canoes of smaller size, but near the surface of the mud, and in a half
decayed state. Three boats, of modern clinker-built construction, of whose
history, unknown to the natives, were also found. Close to the site of the
large canoe, and at the same depth, was a stone causeway laid upon oak
trees, which led direct to the artificial island.- This island was formed of
a quantity of loose stone, on the only rock near the surface of the water in
the whole loch. The large canoe was put into the sea, in order to preserve
it from cracking. In 1883 all trace of the canoe had been lost.
The crannog in Loch Assapol is at the point next to Bun-essan,
and about twenty yards from the shore, consisting of a huge mass of round
and shapeless boulders, seen a little below the surface of the water. Old
people in Mull remember having seen a large part of the ruins above water. A
clachan leads from the shore to the ancient ruins, but a little submerged.
In 1615 Sir James MacDonald built a fort on a small island in
a fresh water loch in Colonsay.
That the crannogs were used by the islanders as late-, as
1608, is proved from the fact the Scottish Privy Council, among other things
demanded the delivery by the chiefs of all “houses of defence, strongholds,
and crannaks,” to be placed at the king’s disposal. .
It is more than probable that the crannogs of Mull were used
simply from choice, or else for safety against wild animals.
Implements: Articles made out of stone, and other material,
have been found in different parts of the isle. Some of these doubtless are
quite modern, and others may be re»-ferred to a remote period. Unfortunately
such as have been reported are of little value, because attention has not
been given to the position of the relic when found.
Arrow heads are the most numerous of such relics as have been
found. If said arrow point occurs on the surface its date may be remote, or
comparatively recent. Arrows were used even during the fifteenth century. In
August 1887 I examined the stone arrow points in the private museum at Loch
Buy House. There were but few, quite rude, and but little known of the find.
They were from the immediate vicinity, and of various kinds of stone
presenting no special or attractive peculiarity.
On the farm of Callachally, Glen Forsa, the following relics
were found: a polished stone object of greenstone, three and one fourth
inches long, one and one fourth inch in. breadth, and decreasing in
thickness from about one eighth of an inch in the middle towards the two
ends, which are not more than one sixteenth of an inch in thickness. It is
pierced by a hole at either end, which is counter sunk on both sides, but
greater on one side than on the other. (See illustration Fig 28). There was
an urn of the drinking-cup type, six and one half inches high and six inches
wide at the mouth (much broken), ornamented with narrow parallel bands of
chevrons and short intersecting lines. The broad bands between these are
filled in with a series of acutely-pointed triangular spaces, alternately
plain, and filled with chevroy pattern. The lines forming the long equal
sides of those triangles appear to have been stamped with the teeth of a
comb. Fragments of another urn of similar character, but different in its
ornamentation, which consists of angular scorings all over the surface, and
towards the top a band of triangular spaces alternating plain and filled
with parallel lines. Two fragments, apparently of a bronze dagger, found
with the urns. These relics do not antedate the bronze age.
From a cist in Mull (location not given) a human skull and an
urn of food-vessel type, six and one fourth inches in height, and six inches
in diameter at the mouth, ornamented on the sloping part with circular
impressions about three-sixteenths inch in diameter, and on the upright part
above the shoulder with similar impressions and scored lines arranged in
triangular patterns. The type and measurements of skull not given. Probably
of Bronze Age.
Urn of food-vessel type in Society of Antiquarians Museum. It
has ornamentation of double horizontal bands of impressed markings
resembling those of a twisted cord, and extending to the whole exterior
surface of the urn from lip to bottom, those above the shoulder, and those
under the shoulder being, however, slightly different in size, and the
everted lip being ornamented on the inside with a boldly impressed zigzag
pattern. The urn is five and one half inches high, and five and one fourth
inches in diameter at the mouth, and two and one half inches at the bottom.
It was found in 1891 in a cist at Quinish. It may be ascribed to the Bronze
Age.
Urn of food-vessel type, four and three-fourths inches high,
much broken, ornamented with impressions of a comblike implement, arranged
in zigzags all over the surface, from a cist in Ross of Mull. Probably of
Bronze Age.
An ornamented brass buckle, found in Mull, is semicircular in
form, and measures one and a half inches in length by one inch in breadth
and about three-sixteenth inches in thickness. The semicircular edge of the
buckle is channelled transversely and longitudinally, with the upper surface
divided by similar channelling into four pannels, filled with rectilinear
patterns.
In Volume XVII. Society of Antiquarians three bronze broaches
are figured and described, stated to have come from Mull. Without further
information they are simply curios. The first (Fig. 32) is highly finished
and gilded with gold, and parts a thin plate of gold. It is a rare specimen.
It measures from the top of the hoop to the outer edge of the ring at the
opening, four inches; and in the line of the larger axis, close on the bar
which lies across the hoop at the top of the broadest part of it, four and
three-eights inches, forming an imperfect oval. The whole length of the acus
is seven inches. At the head, in front, it has a broad quadrangular plate,
one inch long and seven-eights of an inch broad. There are settings for
twenty-one studs—sixteen on the hoop and five on the acus. There are
representations of six complete, grotesque, fabulous reptilian forms, and of
five heads of the same. The simple lines which bring out these forms are
clean, clear, distinct, and very graceful and effective. The other
decorations consist of the twisted strap, or interlaced-work, and a
chain-like ornament.
The next brooch is much smaller, its ornamentation not rich,
characteristic figures wanting, and interlaced tracing not complicated.
The third brooch measures two and three-fourths inches in
diameter, and the pin five inches in length.
The reverse side is destitute of ornamentation, and the
obverse is simple but near. The first and third brooches are now in the New
College Museum.
An octagonal Highland brooch of silver, inlaid with niello,
ornamented with figures of animals, foliage and flowers, and bearing the
inscription I H C N (Ihesus Nazarenus) found in Mull, now in the museum of
the Society of Antiquaries.
A very fine silver brooch was found about the year 1850, at
Kengharair, Kilmore, Mull. It consists of a flattened ring of silver,
three-fourths of an inch at its broadest, and three-eighths at its narrowest
part. The outside rim is octagonal, the inside rim is a circle with a
diameter of two and three-eighths inches. The arcs introduced to indicate
the octagon on the outside edge are segments of a large circle. In the
ornamentation may be noticed human-headed zoomorphs, lozenge on geometric
pattern, and dragonesque forms.
MacLean Hroclie: It is probable that nearly all the
remains of man in Mull were executed by native workmen. That skilled
artisans were on the isle is evidenced by a MacLean broche, herewith
figured. It belonged to the MacLeans of Loch Buy and is now in the British
Museum. It is made out of silver, said to have been found on the estate. The
workmanship probably belongs to the time of the reign of Queen Mary. The
brooche is about five inches in diameter at the base. Round the upper margin
is a low upright rim, within which are ten obelisks, about one and a quarter
inch high, finely studded, and the top of all ornamented with a river pearl.
These surround a second rim, from which rises a neat case, the sides of
which project into ten demi-rounders, all neatly studded. In the -center is
a round crystalline ball, a magical gem. This case may be removed, showing a
considerable hollow.
Ecclesiastical Remains: When the size of the island of
Mull is considered, a disappointment is felt on viewing the number and state
of all ecclesiastical remains. Islands that do not compare with it contain
remains of more or less magnitude and interest. Interest in those in Mull
rests solely on the age in which they were constructed. Although the isle of
Iona is close at hand, with the ruins which are great, and have invited
attention, and many volumes have been written concerning them, it might be
thought an overflow would have produced better results. True the location
was such that the monks of Iona could conveniently attend to all religious
matters, and the number of chapels indicate that the people were not
neglected. Iona absorbed from Mull, far greater than it bestowed. Spiritual
advisers would naturally seek the influence and advantages of Iona to the
loss and neglect of Mull.
The island of Mull offers no ruins of a catherdal nor even a
chapel of any pretensions. Such as still remain must belong to a period
ante-dating the Protestant-Reformation in Scotland, and possibly coeval with
the existence of the columhan religion in the sacred isle of Iona. It would
be difficult to prove how many chapels formerly were in Mull, or even at one
period of time. Place names appear to indicate religious houses, that, at
this time, only exist in the name of the chapel.
It is stated that Cathedrals and other places of worship in
the British Isles were formerly constructed either on or else near the sites
of pre-historic remains, doubtless owing to utilizing the material of the
former structures, in the erection of the later buildings.
The ruined chapel of Pennygown is located about one and one
half miles east of Salen on the road to Craigmore. Its internal dimensions
are forty by seventeen feet. The altar is at the east end. The walls are
composed of basalt and felston?, of the same kind as that of the immediate
neighborhood. The carved work of the doors and windows are wrought out of
freestone, brought from Gribun, or Inch Kenneth, or Morvern, probably the
last named. The same material is similarly employed in the buildings of
Iona. The only door is in the southwest wall; its dimensions being six feet,
three inches high by two feet ten inches broad. .The door is round-headed,
and surrounded by a continuous, simple roll-moulding. There are indications
of hinges, but no bar-hole. There are three windows, all round-headed
lancets, surrounded by roll-moulding. The western window is forty inches
high by six inches broad. The other two windows are forty-five in'ches high
by six inches broad, and situated in the east end of the north and south
walls respectively, so as to overlook the altar. No vest-age of the altar
remains. In the east wall, on the south side of the altar, is a small ambry,
fourteen inches high by twelve inches broad. At the west end are two very
rude corbels for the support of an arch. Inside the chapel, and facing the
altar, is the fragment of a cross, still erect,—the material being a
fine-grained black mica-schist. This fragment is forty inches high. This
chapel probably belongs to the thirteenth century.
At the head of Loch Buy, and on the plain of Laggan is a well
preserved chapel, interior thirty-five feet long. On the north side is a
long lanciform window flush with the wall, the head of one stone, and a
round-headed doorway, the head also of one stone. The east end of the south
side has a long narrow round-headed window, and the west end a blocked one
of uncertain form, surmounted by a dripstone returned a short way down the
sides; the east end is blank, and seems to have been extensively rebuilt.
Lying inside is the basin of an octagonal font. This chapel is now used by
the Maclaines’ of Loch Buy for a private mausoleum,
Some little distance from the far end of Loch Assapol,
looking east-ward, and near to the south side of the Ross of Mull, are the
side walls of a very rudely constructed chapel of medium size, known as
Kilvicean, placed in the center of an ancient burying ground.
In point of architecture the chapel bears a strong
resemblance to St. Oran’s in Iona; but probably belongs to a later age. The
walls are strongly built of unhewn stone, small slabs of whin and
mica-schist, with an occasional granite boulder, buried in mortar produced
from shells, but forming a solid concrete mass which has withstood the
ravages of centuries. There is a tradition which narrates that the material
was carried from the sea-shore, nearly a mile away; that a long cordon of
men extending from the building to the sea, and every stone was passed along
from one to the other, until the last man dropped it near the workmen. At
one time the now desolate spot was the center of a thriving, industrious
community, that led a simple life, gaining its subsistence from the products
of the soil and sea. All the evidence of that people is now pointed out in
the ruins of their house of worship and such parts of their cottages which
have not been taken for fence rows.
At Tobermory are some traces of the old church dedicated to
the Blessed Virgin, or else to St. Maelrubha. In the old burying-ground at
Killinaline, finely situated near Aros, are the foundations of a small
chapel. At Killean, a secluded spot between Loch Don and Loch Spelve, near
the southeast corner of Mull, are scant remains of a small chapel. There are
the ruins of a nameless chapel on Carsaig Bay.
At Kilfinichen, on the north side of Loch Scridain, in the
Ross of Mull, there are no traces of the church which was dedicated to St.
Fincaria the Virgin, one of the nine daughters of St. Dovenald. Killenaok,
or Killinaig, or Kilchianaig, in the lower part of the Ross of Mull, appears
to have been the site of a chapel, but no remains occur there. The chapel
Kilpatrick stood near Duard Castle, Kilbeg on Loch Spelve, Drum na cille
between Fishnish and Scallastle, one somewhere along Loch na keal, and
between that and the north coast, Kilbrennain, Killichronain, Kilmore,
Kilninian and Kellon.
In all probability an ancient burial-ground was connected
with every chapel. Some of these burial-grounds may still be traced, notably
at Kilviceon, Kilpatrick, Tobermory, and likewise inscribed slabs of stone
and crosses.
Sculptured Stones: Some of the ancient grave yards yield
memorial slabs, which are usually called “Iona Stones,” under the
supposition that they were rifled from Iona, after the destruction of the
religious houses on that isle. True, some affirmed that they were originally
sent from that isle by the brethren, to the several districts, as a mark of
the high sense of the worth, zeal and devotion to duty of those on whose
graves they rest. Still others claim that they were marketable articles,
which, with their quaint devices, elaborate tracery, symbolic
representation, had been prepared by the monks, who, by this craft, made a
part of the living. It has further been suggested that the work is simply a
local art, and to prove this it is asserted that neither in Mull nor on the
mainland no two are found precisely alike. The slabs are usually composed of
soft cretaceous sandstone; and generally decorated with foliagenous
scroll-work.
While it is probable that grave yards were at or near all the
chapels, and tombs of various descriptions were placed m all, yet inscribed
stones are not of frequent occurrence. Time has not been merciful with them.
The north of Mull has been the richest field in this department. Some of the
specimens only will be noted.
Kilinailean: The old grave yard of Kilinailean is
located on the northern slope of Glen Aros, about half a mile from the
highway between Tobermory and Salen, and not far from Aros River. There is a
slab here six feet by one and one half feet. On it are four intertwisted
running stems, which rise from animal forms too much defaced to be made out.
Foliageous work fills the stone, with the exception of a panel one foot
square at the top, which is filled with five circular crosses of interlaced
work, a large one in the center, and a small one at either corner. The slab
is surrounded with a double roll moulding, a row of the nail-head ornament
lying between. In the median line of the foliage is the figure of a sword.
There is also a fragment of a slab, twenty-three inches by
eleven inches, in the same grounds. The ornament is a pretty undulating stem
with semi-circular branchlets. There is a part of a blade of a sword in the
median line of the stone. There is also a small slab, with the figure of a
child’s skull well outlined.
There are two very interesting slabs, illustrations of which
are here given (See Fig. 38). The longer of the two is five feet five inches
in length and sixteen inches in breadth, of unusual type and rudely
executed. The other belongs to the usual type of the Highland grave slab,
though the foliag-enous ornamentation is more delicate, and the graceful
form of the sword more striking.
Tobermory: The ornamented slabs near Tobermory present a
variety, especially in an ecclesiastical sense. A very fine type is given in
Fig. 39. It is seven feet by one foot ten inches, surrounded by a three inch
moulding, consisting of three plain bands, lying outside of an inch space
near the ornamentation, from which it is separated by a narrow plain band.
This space, on the lower part of the slab, is ornamented at regular
intervals with triple circles, lozenges and squares. At the bottom of the
slab is a panel, two feet two inches broad, filled with foliageous work,
consisting of four intertwisting stems with recurved clasping leaves. Above
this is a four inch wide panel running across the stone, bearing the figure
of a single-edged comb, and of two circular objects. Higher up is another
panel, seventeen and one half inches by seventeen, filled also with
foliageous work, arranged so as to produce a very graceful effect. In the
center are two concentric circles, the diameter of the outer being three and
one eighth inches, and that of the inner two inches. Towards these eight
floriated rods, with sub-spatulate points, proceed from near the edge of the
panel, at regular intervals, and pass through the circumference of both
circles, but the center is left free. These rods are united by the
intertwisting of a single leaf of one with a single leaf of another
throughout the eight,—thus presenting to each other a concave edge, while
the rest are left free. The uppermost panel is two feet three inches by one
foot four inches, and consists of a double Gothic canopy, the niches
containing two figures in the attitude of prayer. The center pillar bears a
pearshaped finial, and the pointed arches of the niches are terminated by
the lleur de lis. Once there was an inscription 011 the slab of old English
characters, but now so defaced that only the words Anno Dimini can be
distinctly traced.
In the same churchyard is a fragment of a slab, bearing a
square pattern of floriated work. It contains two concentric circles,
surrounded by eight floriated rods, the whole presenting a pretty though
simple effect.
Kilmore: The carved slab in the Kilmore church yard must have
been placed erect, for the ornamentation is on both sides. The illustration
(Fig. 40) gives a view of the ornamentation. It is five feet four inches
long by eleven and one half inches at the bottom and ten inches at the top.
The head piece is thirteen inches at its widest part.
Kilninian: The slab at Kilninian is six feet by sixteen
inches. At the top is a panel with a large circular cross of interlaced work
surrounded with four crosses, from which the running pattern of four
intertwisted stems arise, which nearly fills the rest of the slab. The
interspaces formed by the intertwisting are filled with a conventional leaf
pattern, while on the outside of the stem, at the place of twisting, are
leaves curving towards the edge of the stone. At the bottom is the so-called
tallet, and at right angles to it the shears. In the same yard is another
slab ornamented with four intertwisted stems, each sending off near the
junction tendrils which intertwist, and four spaces filled with foliage.
This slab is much defaced at the bottom, but near it a well-marked Latin
cross can be made out.
Pennygown: Near the Sound of Mull at the opening of Glen
Forsa, are two slabs, one being upright, three feet two inches by one foot
two inches at the bottom and one foot at the top surrounded with flat
moulding running pattern of fol-iageous work on one stem, forming
sub-circular spaces, inside of which are three trifolicate branchlets. The
stem proceeds from the tail of a griffin at the bottom of the slab. On the
other side of the slab is a figure of the Virgin and Child. The stone
terminates in blunted ovals at either side.
There is another slab five feet by thirteen and a half inches
surrounded by a raised band of nail-head moulding. The shears ornament lies
across the stone at the bottom.
There is another record stating that on the outside of the
ruined chapel of Pennygown, occur two slabs of cretaceous sandstone, which
had formed the tops of altar-tombs. The figures are in altorelievo, but
rudely executed. One figure is that of a knight lying with his head resting
on a square pillow, his toes turned outwards, right hand grasps the pommel
of his sheathed sword, and his left holds a long dagger that lies along his
left thigh. The other figure is that of a lady, head resting on a square
pillow, and body clothed in a simple dress. Her toes are turned outwards
and* her arms lie across the body.
Crosses: An island so great as Mull, and so many remains of
chapels, causes a disappointment in the paucity of crosses, notwithstanding
all have passed through an iconoclastic age, characterized by a destructive
religious frenzy. Such crosses as are known are here given.
The most celebrated cross of Mull, and one that gives its
name to a district, and a title to a laird, is Pennycross. It stands near
the road which traverses the island from Loch Don to Bunessan, and about
eight miles from the latter place, and near the southern shore of Loch
Scridain. This cross is rudely cut out of a block of slate, not belonging to
the island. It is fixed by a well-cut mortice into a square block of Gribun
sandstone, which rests on a pyramidal pile of basalt blocks from the
immedite vicinity. The shaft is four feet six inches high, and the pile of
stones five feet high. There are many scribblings on the cross, and on the
east face are incised letters and a date, as indicated in the sketch. No
knowledge exists concerning its history. Its origin is long posterior to the
writings, though the latter, from the character of the letters appears to be
a genuine inscription of an early period. There is a tradition that it was
erected to the memory of one of the famous Beatons, that family being noted
for success in the healing art. This belief probably owes its origin to the
letters on the stone.
Kilmoluag: At Treshinish, near the mouth of Calgary Bay, in
the center of the old burial ground of ‘Kilmoluag, is a plain cross three
feet in height
Nun's Cave: There are ancient crosses on the walls of the
Nun’s Cave, near Carsaig. I visited this cave in 1887 in company with the
late Archibald John Maclean of Pennycross1, and observed all the exposed
crosses, and cleared the faces of others, and took rubbings of quite a
number. The crosses are all small and incised on the natural walls of the
rock. Some are simply formed of one short line crossing near the upper part
of another and longer line. Others have a circle formed at the intersection
of the arms, and still another has a somewhat circular head, with the top
and the transverse limbs of the cross projecting through it, four loops or
openings being indicated at the intersection of the different parts.
The names Ardnacroish and Achenacroish would indicate the
existance of a cross respectively in these two localities. No trace of them
otherwise has been found. |