Summary of Events from 1848 to 1871.—Building—Hydropathio
Establisbment.—New Cemetery.—Literature, Amusements, and Public Buildings.
—Climate.—Vital Statistics of the Parish—Tabular view of the same.-Sanitary
observances.—Moffat created a Burgh in 1864 under the General Police and
Improve mont Act.—Conclusion.
THE
change which has taken place in the external aspects of the town, even
within recent years, must be matter of no small surprise to those who, for
some years, have kept themselves aloof from the familiar scenes of their
childhood. The town, attractive as it is, has not retained much which
indicates the rudeness of mediaeval ages, though we fancy there are a few
things still existing which could claim their origin from that period, and
altogether it bears the plain architectural peculiarities of modern times.
The suburbs indicate, however, a more pretentious style, and the sometimes
extensive gardens, with their well-assorted plots of flowers which scent the
air with a kindly perfume, show plainly the care which is taken to render
the environments of the town an object of particular admiration. Free from
the restraints and conventionalities of city life, the inhabitants are ever
seen pursuing their daily avocations with earnestness and quietude—a state
of affairs which, harmonizing with the seclusiveness of the scene, stirs up
the suggestive lines of Coleridge—
"O! 'tis a quiet spirit-healing nook! Which all,
methinks, would love, but chiefly he, The humble man, who in his
youthful years Knew just so much of folly as had made His early
manhood more securely wise!"
It may appear necessary that a retrospective glance should be cast o'er the
path which, in this work, we have pursued. And while noticing its gradual
development, from the time when its church and church lands were part of the
private patrimony of Bruce, and by him subsequently annexed to the Bishopric
of Glasgow; from the time when its inhabitants were skilled in war, as the
turbulent state of the country necessitated, and when their industry and
perseverance were evinced in the manufacture of beverages to satiate their
appetites; or when the town was slightly exalted by its errection into a
Barony and Regality Burgh, and subsequently released from the partially
tyrannical control of a feudal Superior, we cannot but be satisfied with the
peaceful picture which it now presents. Former customs and institutions have
been rejected and abolished, former principles have by the inhabitants been
renounced, and in conformity with the times they zealously attend to their
domestic and agricultural duties. Under the paternal superintendence and
care of a prudent and far-seeing proprietor, the lands of Moffat, with many
in Annandale, have been efficiently taken care of and cultivated; and the
inhabitants of the surrounding district are to him much indebted for proper
systems upon which to work farms, with the same efficiency as formerly, and
with greater economical observance. The town, too, has not been neglected,
and here and there traces of his benevolence and interest in its prosperity
are visible, while the Moffatians readily acknowledge the benefits received
from his liberal hand.
Though
we are capable of enjoying the contemplation of Moffat in its ameliorated
state, we cannot be expected to derive full satisfaction from the prospect,
because we are practically unconscious of the change which has transpired in
its social, religious, and domestic aspects, in common with other towns of
small dimensions, struggling for existence at the same remote period, not
having in those primitive times gone abroad to enjoy the freshness of its
beauty, the sweetness of its solitude, or having conversed with the
associates of "Tam Hulliday of Corehead," the compatriots of William Wallace
in his fight for national independence, or the zealous adherents of the
Scottish Covenant, who dwelt within the precincts of the town, or in some
favoured spot of the surrounding country. To such, the change would by no
means appear an improvement. These octogenarians would doubtless account
with wondrous veracity the doings of their childhood, when the Bruce was a
more familiar sight than even some of our modem idols, who, from the purity
of their imaginings, the depths of their scientific discoveries, or the
number and variety of their philanthropic executions, are daily worshipped;
or the graver duties which in their declining years employed them, when the
caprices of youth had vanished, and when, desirous of keeping themselves
aloof from the wickedness which everywhere abounds, they repaired to
conventicles in secluded glens, where the serenity of the scene caused them
to raise their thoughts above Nature and her beauties, and concentrate them
upon Nature's God. What an ample illustration of these words-
"Oderunt peccare born virtutis amore."
How interesting it would be to hear them narrate in
thoir unostentatious manner their own daring deeds during the many quarrels
in which their country was implicated. To receive a vivid and glowing
description of the eventful battle of Dryfesands, with its attendant
fatalities—the temporary overturn of the ancient house of Nithsdale and the
ignominious death of its noble representative—would prove not the least
worthy of our attention. Or how they, flushed with enthusiasm, when they
beheld the saving and welcome rays which emanated from the fitful beacon
planted on the Gallowhill, which indicated the approach of the usurper, and
caused them to doff their daily habit for that which practically signified
their allegiance to their king and country. Or how, when the discovery of
Moffat Well was universally made known, they indirectly resented the daily
encroachments () made upon them by strangers attracted to the locality to
share its hidden health-restoring influences. Or how they were impressed
with the idea of their own importance when the town was elevated to the
position of a Burgh of Regality, partakers in the privileges of the same,
and under the direct control of the Baron and his bailies.4 To see it now
with its public buildings, its large churches, its baths, its commodious
hotels, its banking establishments, and educational institutions; its gas
and other conveniences peculiar to modem times, would be matter of surprise
and pain, not contented pleasure; and in the extremity of their grief they
would doubtless exclaim-.--
"Timeo
Danaos et dona ferentes."
The
improvements effected within recent years have been numerous, and may here
be briefly enumerated. For many years the impulse gained by the opening of
the Caledonian Railway in 1848 steadily increased, and the enthusiasm which
they manifested in their building projects has been productive of its own
good, as the unique and substantial appearance of the town is the object of
admiration of its numerous visitors, and the pride of its natives. Hartfell
Crescent has an airy and elevated situation facing the south, while its
architecture is tasteful and elegant, and the internal conveniences have by
the proprietor been particularly considered. A Company was recently formed
for the creation of a Hydropathic Establishment, which will add materially
to the attraction of a visit; and several acres of ground have been
purchased at a heavy sum for the erection of a suitable Institution, and
schemes organised for the practical development of the plan. It may also be
observed that the Parochial Board, with the Rev. Dr. M'Vicarat its head as
Chairman, has secured in perpetual fen, from Mr. Hope Johnstone, a lovely
and sequestered spot on the banks of the Aman, for the purpose of forming a
Cemetery, its chief attraction being its remoteness from the town. This will
be a great boon to the inhabitants, as the present burying-ground is already
inconveniently filled "with moes.green'd pediments and tombstones gray." And
although they must henceforth bury their dead in a more remote but still
more lovely spot, they can ever with a saddened pleasure point to the
southern extremity of the town, and in the pathetic words of Gray exclaim:-
"Beneath those rugged elms, the yew-trees' shade,
Where heaves the turf in many a mould'ring heap, Each in his narrow cell
for ever laid, The rude
forefathers of the hamlet sleep."
Moffat also possesses a Horticultural Society, whose
indefatigable exertions to have an annual exhibition are signally rewarded,
and the elite of the town during the visiting season favour them with their
presence. But this is but one of the many treats which the Moffatians hold
out to strangers as an inducement to sojourn for a time in the locality.
Concerts are held at stated intervals within the commodious hail in the Bath
buildings, which are well patronised and meet with the universal approbation
of the visitors, and the committee of management merit praise for the
efforts which they make to secure the services of talented arti3tes during
the season. Assemblies, lectures, and evening meetings of various types have
been instituted, all of which are calculated to while the time pleasantly
away, as they offer the privileges of new associations, drawing the visitors
closer to each other, and makes the less homely tendency of our Scottish
watering places much reduced. And, while endeavouring to originate schemes
for the amusement of all, the inhabitants have not forgotten the moral and
intellectual power which, in common with all great or small communities,
they possess. Since 1622, when the first known English newspaper was
published in the form of News of the Present Week, the cry for serial
literature has increased to such an extent that no small provincial town is
now destitute of its "Weekly," with its "Public Voice," through the medium
of which existing evils are assailed, and its leading articles, pregnant
with unvarnished sarcasms, by which parliamentary enactments and public
measures may receive the approval or disapprobation of the editor and his
coadjutors, all of which have a decided tendency to impress their local
readers with the idea of the immensity of their achievements and give an air
of importance even to the most humble. Moffat has long since experienced the
benefits arising from local newspapers, and various series of the Ho/at
Times have been called into existence and suppressed. The present issue,
which may be said to be a better speculation than any of its predecessors,
was originated in May, 1861, and is conducted under the superintendence of
its proprietor, Mr. Muir. Ample means for the amusement and instruction of
the inhabitants is provided in the Public Library, consisting of upwards of
4000 volumes, chiefly the benefactions of eminent natives, and also under
his care and management.
We
deem it necessary to consider the suitability of the climate for invalids.
It has all along been objected that Moffat is anything but desirable winter
quarters, an impression which, though erroneous, has gained ground, and
hence the comparative brevity of the visiting season. Its mountainous
surroundings and elevated situation are apt to impress strangers with the
idea of the severity of its winters, but from personal experience we can
testify to the contrary; and recommend it for the winter residence of all
who are desirous of escaping biting east winds or fogs, for which cities are
famous, as the prevailing winds of Moffat are southerly and westerly, and it
is almost free from the annoyance of fogs. Another advantage is the peculiar
construction of the streets, or the material with which they are formed.
After a heavy shower of rain, the streets are in such a state as to admit of
the most scrupulous invalid taking a walk without deriving the slightest
harm. Though we claim for Moffat during the winter months the title "mild,"
we must confess to a few exceptional cases illustrative of unusual cold. On
Tuesday evening, 30th September, 1817, the thermometer at Moffat was as low
as 27°, and on the following morning at 23°, exactly nine degrees below
freezing point. But there are exceptions to all rules, and this is one. Dr.
M'Vicar, speaking of the temperature, says, "The niininum of this winter
[1870-71], indicated by a trustworthy, self-registering thermometer hung on
the wall of this house [the Manse], at the height of the eye, protected from
the sky and passing influences, by being among the loaves of a cotoncaster
nailed to the wall, is nothing lower than 17° Fahr."
There have been many instances of
longevity in the town and parish, which can be accounted for by the
healthful recreations and pursuits of the inhabitants, and the efforts which
have been made for sanitary reform. The populations have, in a former part
of this work, been noticed—that of the parish 2232, of which number 1600
inhabit the town—and the following statistics are given with the view of
illustrating the remarkable vitality in Moffat and upper Annandale. In 1870,
the deaths of parishioners out of that population were 34, eight being
upwards of seventy years of ago, which is much less than the mortality in
even lees populated towns or rural districts in Scotland, as it is only 152
per 1000; while in 1869, the general mortality rate of small towns was 222
per 1000. And what proves beyond dispute the benefits accruing from the
drinking of the mineral waters, and the invigorating air for which Moffat is
famous; is, that out of 5000 strangers who resided in the town during the
visiting season, as estimated, four deaths only occurred. And this is
particularly striking when we consider that many who constituted the 5000
were afflicted with some direful malady. The following tabular view of the
vital statistics of the parish, prepared by Mr. Gibson, M.C., Edinburgh
University, the Local Registrar, and procured through the kindness of Dr.
M'Vicar, may more fully illustrate the preceding remarks:-
The reader, by perusal of the foregoing statistics,
will readily perceive that Moffat has an exceedingly insignificant mortality
rate, and with a continuance of the care which is taken to free the town
from bad or imperfect sewerage ;* and other sanitary observances, it may in
time coming merit the appellation which it has in time past received. There
is no known local distemper, and it has even providentially escaped the
violent epidemics which have frequently ravaged the country. In the
memorable year 1832, when Asiatic Cholera visited it; and when the
inhabitants of the Royal Burgh of Dumfries (21 miles distant) were suffering
from the Pestilence which ruthlessly slew hundreds of them, so much so that
the words of Armstrong can best illustrate the direfulness of the malady,
In heaps they left, and oft one bed, they say, The
sickening, dying, and the dead contained,"
Moffat was spared. And the wonder is increased when we
consider that daily communication was made to and from the "town of the
plague," in the form of parties being conveyed to a purer atmosphere, and
yet Moffat remained uncontaminated. Although this may justly be attributed
to a special provision of Providence, still we cannot shut our eyes to the
palpable fact that the cleanliness of the people, and the care taken by
their rulers, rendered the possibility of a similar attack less likely. The
cleanliness of the town and inhabitants of Moffat is nowhere surpassed. But
Dumfries was, at the time of which we speak, unfortunately differently
situated. The condition of the lower classes had long been sadly deplored,
and called for immediate action; the state of their homes was of such a
filthy character that a like visitation had been sincerely dreaded; sanitary
reform amidst much disease had been Unheeded till the reaper Death, with his
"sickle keen," had in towns not far distant been vigorously plying his
vocation. Then, and not till then, schemes were organised for the practical
development of sanitary plans, which had hitherto remained unheeded, and so
when the plague entered the town their feeble efforts could not allay the
virulence of the disease. Moffat, however, had long recognised the strict
necessity for instant and constant action for the relief of the destitute,
and the systematic cleansing of the town. A sufficient supply of pure water
was always possessed, and the houses were in such a state as would in all
probability ward off the attacks of such an unmerciful foe.
The most fortunate move Moffat ever made was the
adoption of the General Police and Improvement Act, which formerly the
inhabitants had made strenuous efforts to acquire, as this may be regarded
the parent of all subsequent improvements and the cause of the numerous
changes made in the external arrangements of the town, for when efforts were
made to obtain a new Cemetery, somewhere about 1856, the Burgh's boundaries
had first to be specified, and power procured ere they could more at all.
And after the lapse of eight years their darling object was realized, for in
1864 the town was created a Burgh under this Act, making all the
improvements since effected a matter of comparative ease, seeing the power
of acting freely had been acquired.
It is with considerable reluctance we tear ourselves
from the self-imposed task which has for the past two years employed us.
Conscious, however, of the size which it at present assumes, we cannot
confidently enter into a more detailed account of the present position and
growing importance of the town. Though self-imposed, the task latterly
became burdensome when the time was limited for its completion, and this in
some measure accounts for the abrupt conclusion which we are bound to make
of a somewhat lengthy story. Strangers necessarily ignorant of Moffat's
beauty may consider the statements herein made exaggerated, and attribute
them to the over-heated imagination of the writer, but to them we
Particularly recommend a visit, so that experience may prove the falsity of
such a supposition. The number of visitors is yearly increasing, and well
may we say with Cowper, in support of our former assertion
"Scenes must be beautiful which daily viewed
Please daily; and whose novelties survive Long knowledge and the
scrutiny of years Praise justly due to such as I describe."
We affectionately bid our readers farewell, wishing
fir Moffat a continuance of that prosperity and public favour which hitherto
it has received: trusting, too, that the object of the author's heart has
been realised —to bring it prominently before the public, and in every
respect make his results worthy of the subject handled.
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