Warfare existing during
1448.—Settlement of the family of French in the district.—Their position as
landed proprietors.-Property received from the Knights Templx.—FreuchIand
Tower. The Whitefords.—Discovery of Moffat Well by Miss Whiteford.- Effects
of the discovery.—Dr Robert Johnstone.—His numerous bequests.—Fonncintion of
the Grammar School with the money left by him for the purpose.—The supposed
unlawful disposition of the money.—Manuscripts bearing on the subject.
AT this period, 1448, the people of Scotland were so
engrossed in the warfare existing that they were rendered incapable of
attending to domestic or agricultural duties. The people of Annandale and
Moffatdale were no exception to the general rule, for the adoption of the
motto, "Might is right," was evident and acknowledged by ill. We can easily
account for the great numbers which followed the principal lairds in the
district, especially the Lochwood Johnstones, during the Civil Wars, and
other skirmishes of less importance by this. The motto or war-cry of
Moffat's meagre population, "Aye ready, aye ready," must frequently have
resounded through their mountain shelters, or while fighting under the
flaunting banner of the Johnstones, to whom, in time of warfare, they ever
proved serviceable. It is but natural to expect that such a state of affairs
materially affected the domestic interests of the party.
A little later than 1448, a family settled in the
vicinity of Moffat, the representatives of which are seen at a subsequent
period in the position of proprietors of extensive lands in and of the town,
as vassals holding them from the superior. They are first seen in an
important .light in the year 1500, when they erected for themselves a
stronghold or peel-house, the ruins of which still occupy a prominent site
in the landscape, and from then, till a very modem date the Freuches of
Frenchiand are recognized as important denizens of Moffat. In relation to
this possession of land within the town, mention is first made in a relour
dated January 10, 1635, in the following terms:Willielinus Frenche, haeres
Margaratae Jolmestoun, spouse Davidis Drenche in Frenchland, matris—in I
mercata terra in villa et territorio de Moffat ;—E. 13s. 4d.—domo in villa
do Moffat, infra 10 libratis terrarum do Moffet parochiam, ejusdem et
seneseallatum Veils Annandiae.—E. 3s. 4d." And again, reference is made to
the foregoing in the following passage.—"This inquest was made in the Burgh
of Lochmaben,......by those good and faithful men underwritten.......who
declare upon oath that the deceased Margaret Johnostoun, the wife of David
Frenche in Frenchland, and the mother of William Frenche, the bearer of
those presents, died last vest, and seised as of fee . in all and whole one
merkiand lying in the town and territory of Moffat, with the houses,
buildings gardens, parts, pendicles, and all its pertinents whatsoever; also
in the house possessed by Alexander Mitchell, blacksmith, lying in the said
town of Moffat, in the middle street of Moffat, with its pertinents all
lying within the ten pound land of Moffat.......the said merkiand is now
worth yearly £13 4s; and the foresaid house with the pertinents is also
worth yearly £13 48; and the said merkiand and house with the pertinents are
held immediately of John Johnstoun of Carrystoun, and his heirs, and
successors, and assignees, in free blench, ferme for the yearly payment of
one penny of Over of the usual money of the Kingdom of Scotland, upon the
ground of the said lands, at the feast of Pentecost .....Margaret
Johncstoun died 1627." As will be seen from the first of these quotations,
the Frenches had property in Moffat prior to 1635, such at least is
indirectly hinted at in the passage referred to, the right of possession
being David Frenche's, by his marriage with Margaret Johnestoun, which, by
her death in 1627, became her son's, William Frenche, which fact is
mentioned in the retour of date January 10, 1635, as quoted. The fact of
their building a peel-house in 1500 does not indicate possession of land. We
find the power in their district greatly and gradually augmented, after the
date here mentioned. Sometime in the sixteenth century they received from
the knights Templars, the property of Jiolehouse, Chapel, Craikscraigs, and
Gardenliohn, which previously belonged to the Knights of St. John of
Jerusalem, and formed the "estate or barony of Cuthberts—rig and constituted
a Chapelry." Part of this property was lately joined to the parish of
Kirkpatrick-Juxta, and three centuries ago was acquired by the Annandale
family from one of the Griersons of Lagg, "whose family," says Mr Charles
Stewart, "have long held good repute and position among the old Chiefs and
Baronets of Dumfriesshire, with the exception of 'Bluidy Lagg of persecuting
memory'." It may be deemed necessary to speak briefly of Frenchland Tower,
the private patrimony of the Frenches. Till 1746 or 1750, that family was in
possession of it, when it passed by purchase into the hands of Lord
F.Hock, who for about forty years held it, when Dr Rogerson, who was at
one time first physician to the Empress Catherine of Russia, became
possessor of it, and subsequently joined it to the Dwncrieff estate. And now
"Wrapping the fog about its breast, The ruin
moulders into rest,"
within
earshot of the stilly whispers of the "Silver Annan," as it meanders slowly
southward; and had this ruin but a voice it would utter forth the liquid
melody of song fraught with fragments of sorrow and of joy, a combination of
the piteous and sublime of other days. And he who penetrates this dreary
ruin, intent upon "spurning the yoke of unprofitable care," will find food
enough for the most reflective of reflective minds, and lessons aptly suited
for developement in life; for here in truth the words of "Delta" will be
found most applicable—
"Spectral silence pointeth to decay."
In its ruinous condition its beauty is but partially
impaired, for there is a mouldering beauty in a mouldering state. The
Ancient casts a ray upon the more artistic handiwork creations of modern
times. And we question much if the stranger, struck by the ruins of its
antique beauty, will find terms more suitable with which to express his
admiration and appreciation than those of Byron.—
"Hail to thy pile I more bonoufd in thy fall Than
modern mansions in their pillar'd state; Proudly majestic frowns thy
vaulted ball, Scowling defiance on the blasts of fate."
In the beginning of the seventeenth century Moffat
owned amongst its inhabitants a man of considerable ability, and a lady of
pure intellect and keen perception, whose talent and curiosity rendered her
serviceable to the Moffatians, by whom she will ever be considered their
chief benefactor. We deem it almost unnecessary to intimate that in the
preceding remarks we allude to Walter Whitefurde and his accomplished
daughter. Having been so intimately associated with the town, and connected
with the surrounding district in the matter of property, we shall give a
brief biographic sketch of those individuals.
Dr Whitefürde is said to have been a matriculated
student of the University of Glasgow, as far back as 1598, but this we fancy
is rather far back, as M'Ure assigns 1601 as the date of his entry. He was a
son of Adam Whitefurde, of Milntoun, and was destined to become an able and
enthusiastic ecclesiastical student., and for his undeniable zeal and
ability, honours worthy of such were liberally conferred upon him. He
completed his philosophic studies, took his degrees, and in 1604 was created
a Regent or Professor of the University. Having afterwards passed through
his divinity studies, he was by Archbishop Spottiswoode ordained, appointed
as shown in Appendix to the pastorate of Moffat, in 1610, promoted in 1628
by the gift of the King, without question, to the sub-deanery of Glasgow, as
proof exists of his having signed certain deeds at that period in company
with the Archbishop, Dean, and Chapter of the See. Whitefurde remained in
Moffat till 1630, after which he was, through Sir William Alexander, of
Menstrie, subsequently Earl of Stirling, presented to the episcopal Sec of
Brechin; was consecrated on the 7th December, 1634, where M'Ure, in his
"History of Glasgow," says "he exercised his functions till the beginning of
the troubles in the year 1639." After he was presented to the sub-deanery in
1628 (in 1630), on the completion of a law suit, he procured decree, being
by this preferred to a party vainly presented by Sir James Cleland, who
presumptuously claimed the patronage. Though a confirmation of his right had
been obtained, he had subsequently to compound with the Prior of Blantyre,
who it appears had "an old tack of the teinds of the sub-deanery." The
authorities of the University had apparently the right of patronage, as they
presented to the office then, vacant "by the decease of umquhill Mr Walter
Whitefunle, or umquhill Mr Gavin Hamilton, or either of them, or by the
decease, deprivation, demission, desertion, removal, resignation, or
translation of any other person, &c." "From these words," says Dr Fleming,
"it would appear that there had been a struggle for the office of sub-dean,
and that some of those that held it had been deprived, or had deserted."
Some writers have made a lamentable mistake as to the death of Bishop
Whitefurde. That event is stated to have taken place in 1664, but it is an
indisputable fact,—a fact emanating from the most careful and authentic
historical writers—that he died in 1643 in England, whither he had fled on
the deprivation of his functions by the Assembly of Glasgow. The connection
of the Bishop with the subject of the present work, lies not exclusively in
ecclesiastical matters, as during his residence in the town till 1630, and
subsequently, he possessed much land in the district, which descended to
James Johnstone of Corohead (then representative of a lesser branch of the
Lochwood John-stones, and who previously occupied the position of
Chamberlain to the Bishop), by his marriage with Rachel the Bishop's
daughter.
In the year 1633
Moffat was destined, by the ingenuity of Miss Whitefurde, to be ever
afterwards recognised as a place for the invalid, an hospital constructed by
the hand of Nature for the sick-stricken man, which Home has pictured in the
following lines, illustrative of its then inauspicious surroundings, and the
change which has taken place since he penned them, as the surroundings of
Moffat's sulphurous spring are in every respect worthy of the locality—
"No grace did nature here bestow, But wise was
nature's aim; She bade the healing waters flow, And straight the
graces came."
Miss Whitefurde
had already had some acquaintance with the then incomparable English Spas,
and thus from knowledge then acquired on the subject, as previously hinted,
her curiosity led her to the investigation of some strange phenomena,
resulting in the discovery of the far-famed sulphurous spring in the
vicinity of Moffat. it is probable that its discovery did not, as we might
suppose, become the object of consternation or curiosity to the inhabitants;
and certain it is that the now admitted curative powers of the water did not
make Moffat gain that share of patronage which it presently receives. The
expense of travelling, the imperfect house accommodation, and the lack of
those things of which we all stand in need, were the barriers which at this
time stood prominently in the way, to enable parties to avail themselves of
the opportunity afforded them, or in any way render Moffat a place of
fashionable resort. It is at a later date it is thus represented. It would,
however, be foolish to deny the comparative good derived from the discovery
of the well, even at the only period. The visitors were not numerous, but
they gave a greater impulse to trade, gave the people an idea of their own
importance, rendered building necessary to meet the demands of strangers;
and thus we see laid the foundation of a fabric afterwards prosperous, by
Miss Whitefurde, whose talents appear to have been wasted upon the
Moffatians, as no tangible evidence of gratitude and respect has as yet been
shown by them towards her, though the memories of parties of less importance
have been perpetuated in monuments of greater value than the discoveries
they made. Whatever good was derived from the discovery of the well was not
seen till a later date, when ample accommodation was provided for the
invalid and the stranger.
There are parties who "though dead yet speak," whose benevolence has erected
monuments, upon which letters are inscribed which can never be effaced, and
whose memory is revered in the grateful hearts of a sometimes large
community. And such, indeed, is the truth in relation to the particular
case, which is alike our privilege and duty to lay before our readers.
Robert Johnstone, LL.D., brother-in-law to George Heriot, was born in
Edinburgh in 1567. Although a man of considerable literary power, his worth
was not fully known, nor his name associated with anything particularly good
and noble, till his death, which event took place in London, where he had
spent the greater part of his life, in 1639. To Glasgow, Dumfries, Montrose,
Dundee, and other towns, including Moffat, he bequeathed large sums of money
for the erection of charitable or educational institutions, making suitable
arrangements for the execution of his favourite desires, and sufficient
money to enable the institutions to be efficiently worked. In his
settlement, dated from Blackfriars, London, September 30th, 1639, he leaves
£1000 for the erection of a Grammar School, with suitable salaries for the
various teachers.* This money was to be laid out in purchasing laud, which
was to maintain the seminary, while Lord Johnstone was appointed executor,
and the Lord Provost and Magistrates of Edinburgh the Patrons of the School,
But there are, alas I men who, when imposed with a responsible duty, forget
the injunctions given them, and neglect the fulfilment of their solemn
offices. And such was the treatment this act of benevolence met with, we
consider, at the hands of the executor. The wishes of the testator were but
partially respected, the full designs of the will never being carried into
effect. A bursary was also instituted by Dr Johnstone, which is stilt
existing; but it is doubtful whether the purchasing of lands took place, to
enable the school to be carried on wider the superintendence of an efficient
staff of teachers. In fact, we may say it was not done, as subsequent events
fully exemplify—namely, the incorporation of the Grammar School with the
Parish School, wider the name of the Academy, which took place in 1834,
causing it only to draw the annual rent of the money left for it. In a
manuscript letter, purporting to be written to the Dumfries Times of 1839,
now before us, we find a peculiar passage with reference to the old Grammar
School of Moffat, and the incorporation of the same with the Parish School
already alluded to. The writer says, "But, for example, many years ago a
benevolent gentleman mortified a large sum to establish a seminary in the
parish of Moffat, consisting of three teachers, and salaries specified for
each, wider the trust of the heir of the Annandale Estates; and a particular
sum also is specified in the donors will for erecting buildings for the
seminary, with instructions, if the sum for the buildings was not sufficient
they should be finished out of the sum for purchasing ground. Ground was
never purchased, as far as known, nor the salaries all wholly paid nor
accounted for; but a building for the school was erected, and the
parishioners occupied it as their right for more than forty years; yet the
kind Superior has, within the last three or four years, taken possession of
the building, without the leave of any asked or given. Is this agreeable to
the law of land, though the buildings were raised on the property of the
Superior? Is forty years' possession now of no avail, though there is no feu
of the situation? Must the parishioners in this way lose their building? The
kind Superior has also joined this Seminary to the Parish School, and all
under the charge of the Parish Schoolmaster, contrary to the petition of 150
sub-j scribers, both Heritors, Feuars, and Householders. This is a point
upon which we feel inclined to say little. From the foregoing passages,
combined with the testimonies of old inhabitants, we conclude that something
mysterious has caused the benevolence of Dr Johnstone to be partially
swallowed up. We cannot exactly say to what extent this goes; but we feel
convinced, and we presume our readers will do likewise, that the injunctions
of Johnstone were, in a measure, neglected—the full objects of the
institution hidden; and it is not to be wondered at, that general
dissatisfaction prevails in the district, on account of the peculiar
disposition of the money left for the erection of a Grammar School.
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