Overland from Balluchulish to Oban on a
'Pet
Day' in February—Story of Clack
Ruric— Castle
Stalker: an Old Stronghold of the Stewarts of Appin—James IV.—Charles
II.— Magpies—Dun-Mac-Uisneachan.
With all
their tendency, in their every reference to the past, to become laudatores
temporis acti, the
sturdy upholders of the superiority of all that was, in
comparison with anything and everything that is, our
weather-wise octogenarian friends "here are all agreed that so
summer-like a February [1878] month they never knew before. It is true
that in making this admission they shake their heads sapiently, and hint
that no good can come of such an unnatural commingling of the times and
seasons. It will be well, they add, if before cuckoo day (mun
d'tliig latlia na cuaig) we
haven't to pay for it all in the shape of storm and cold at a time when
these are as unseasonable and out of place as is summer calm and summer
sunshine now. It
was amusing to see these honest old croakers selecting the coziest nooks air
chid gaoitlie's air aodain greine, as
the Fingalian tale has it,—that is, at the back of the wind and in the
face of the sun—and thoroughly enjoying the calm and sunshine at the
very moment that they would impress upon us the unnaturalness and
unseasonableness of it all. The first fortnight of February was, indeed,
wonderfully fine; from the beginning of the month up to the evening of
St. Valentine's Day, more like the close of April or early May than
anything usually looked for while the sun is still in Aquarius. Driving
overland to Oban on the 11th, and, by the ferries of Ballachulish, Shian,
and Connel, a very beautiful drive it is, hardly to be equalled
elsewhere even in the West Highlands; the day was so bright, and calm,
and clear, that while mavis and merle, and hedge-accentor and chaffinch
greeted us from copse and hedgerow with their rich and mellow song, the
driver, sitting heside us, couldn't help observing as we passed by Appin
House, "Na 'n robh chuag again a nis, bha 'n samhradh fhein ann!" "If we
had but the cuckoo now, it would be summer its very self!" On the beach,
a little above high-water mark, just under Appin House, and within an
easy stone's cast of the public road, there is an immense spherical
boulder of granite, to which there is attached a curious old story,
which invests with additional interest an object deserving enough of
attention for its own sake—for the sake, that is, of its huge size and
almost perfect spherical form, this latter peculiarity, in the huge
solid mass, making it the most remarkable thing of the kind on the
mainland, at least of the West Highlands. The story of the Appin House
boulder, or Clach
Ruric as
it is called, is, dropping minor and unessential details, to the
following effect:—Long, long ago a Prince of Lochlin or Scandinavia,
with a formidable fleet of war galleys, made a descent upon the
Hebrides, killing and plundering everywhere with a ruthlessness known
only, even in those days of rude lawlessness, to the Yikings of the
north. Having thoroughly devastated the islands, Ruric—for such was the
Prince's name— steered for the mainland of Morven, and took up his
residence in the castle of Mearnaig, in Glensanda. In this stronghold,
the ruins of which still exist, he resolved to pass the winter, with the
intention of over-running and plundering the adjoining districts in the
spring, and afterwards sailing homewards in the calm of summer seas, for
his galleys were so deeply laden with booty that he feared to encounter
the turbulence of the North Sea at any other season. In the early spring
the cruel Northman was betimes astir, killing and plundering with but
little opposition throughout the districts of Kingerloch, Sunart, and
Ardgour, to the head of Lochiel. While of his numerous fleet a single
galley showed more than a foot and a span (troidh
agus reis were
the words of the narrator) of gunwale unsuhmerged, Euric was
unsatisfied, and to complete his ill-gotten freight he resolved on the
plunder of the opposite district of Appin, the smoke of whose dwellings
could he seen, and the lowing of whose numerous herds could he heard
(when the summer morning was still and the Linnhe Loch was calm) hy the
pirate prince from the battlements of the castle of Mearnaig. One
morning Euric anchored his galleys in the Sound of Shuna, and landing,
erected his tents on the green knoll now occupied by Appin House. "With
this spot as his head-quarters, it was his intention to plunder the
district north and south of him at his leisure, believing that he would
meet with as little opposition here as he had already met with
elsewhere. The inhabitants of Appin, however, were partly on their
guard, and determined to resist, and if possible chastise, the invader.
And first conveying their old men, women, and children, with their
flocks and herds, into the fastnesses of the upland glens, they resolved
to watch the movements of the Norsemen, ready to fall upon them whenever
a favourable opportunity should offer. That same night, as some cattle
herds, acting as scouts, were on the hill immediately above the tents of
the invaders, one of them directed the attention of his companions to a
huge granite boulder with so slight a hold of the hill crest, that, with
some little labour, it might be let loose at any time—a terrible
messenger of wrath—amongst the tents of the enemy below, whose shouts of
laughter at that moment, and snatches of rude song, proved that they had
feasted plentifully and had no apprehenson of immediate death or danger
in any form. After much labour, the herdsmen managed so to dig about and
undermine and loosen the boulder in its bed on the hill-face, that, on a
given signal, their united strength sufficed to tilt it headlong over
the steep, leaping and thundering on its terrible path. The largest
trees in its course snapped before the boulder like reeds: when it came
into momentary contact with a rock, the sparks flew heavenward as if
from an exploded meteor ! In a dozen of bounds it reached the tents of
the Norsemen, crushing, mangling, grinding into pulp or powder (a pronnadh
agus a bruanadh, are
the Gaelic words) everything it touched, and finally stopping where it
now stands, to be long regarded by the people of the district with a
feeling akin to superstitious awe, and to he known by the name of Clach
Ruric. In
the morning, the Norsemen could only know by the mangled fragments of
their bodies that their Prince, with his two sons, and many of those
next to him in power, had met with a terrible death. Before the Appin
men could gather in sufficient force to attack them, the Norsemen
unmoored their galleys, chanting the death-song of their chief as they
unmoored, and set sail for Lochlin, never more to trouble the mainland
of the West Highlands with their invasions. The venerable seanachie from
whom we picked up this tradition, added that Castle Coefin, or
Cyffin, in Lismore, is so called after a Danish prince of that name, who
also was connected with Ruric's expedition, though in what manner he was
unable to say.
Not far from Clach Ruric, on an island rock in the
entrance to the Sound of Shuna, are the ruins of another castle, of a
later date, however, and more recent interest than can be attached to
the many strongholds of the Viking period perched on the rocks and
promontories of this part of the West Highlands. This is Castle Stalker,
or, in the language of the district itself, Caisteal-an-Stalcairc, the
Castle of the Falconer or Fowler. The small rock-island on which it is
built is Sgeir-an-Sgairbh (the
sea-rock, or skerry of the cormorant), from very early times the
gathering cry at once and rendevous of the Stewarts of Appin in all
their maritime expeditions. Castle Stalker dates from about the
beginning of the reign of James IV., for whose convenience and
accommodation, when, as frequently happened, he extended his hunting
expeditions to this district, it was built. Stewart of Appin, who was a
great favourite with the king, was appointed hereditary keeper, and the
castle continued in the possession of the family until, about the year
1645, the Mac Ian Stewart of that date, in a moment of drunken folly,
made it over to his wily neighbour, Donald Campbell of the Airds,
receiving in return the handsome and adequate equivalent of an
eight-oared birlinn, or
small wherry! Stewart, when sober, would have gladly cancelled so
manifestly one-sided a barter-bargain at any sacrifice, but Campbell,
having got possession, kept it; while the disgraceful transaction so
stung the pride of the Stewarts that they practically deposed the Baotliaire (the
silly one), as they nicknamed the chief, from his chieftainship, by
unanimously electing his cousins of Invernahyle and Ardsheal to be their
leaders in the subsequent wars of Montrose. For a short time during
Montrose's ascendancy in the Highlands, and for a longer period towards
the close of the reign of Charles II., Castle Stalker was again in the
possession of the Stewarts; but at the Revolution the Campbells had it
all their own way; they repossessed themselves of the castle, and it has
remained theirs ever since. About forty years ago a gentleman of the
family of A-ilein
'Ic Rob of
Appin, who had amassed a considerable fortune in the West Indies,
offered the then proprietor a largo sum for the bare rock and ruins of
Castle Stalker, but the offer was refused.
From the wooded knoll to the left, as we entered the
village of Portnacroish, we heard some notes that,' harsh as they were,
delighted us, for we had not heard them for many years; and the reader
will perhaps smile when we confess delight in association with what was
neither more nor less than the chattering of a pair of magpies! Knowing
that it must be magpie chattering and nothing else, though the lively
confabulators were for the moment invisible, we got out of our
conveyance, and on reaching an open glade we got sight of a pair of
these beautiful birds perched on the topmost bough of an old ash tree;
and so busy were they in the discussion of what must have been a matter
of grave and immediate importance, that the usually shy and wary birds
did not notice our approach till we were quite close upon them, when,
with a scream of alarm and an indignant flirt of their tails, they
glided in graceful curve, rather than flew, over the tree tops and
disappeared. So rare has the magpie become in Lochaber and the
immediately surrounding districts, that a sight of a pair of these
handsome and sagacious birds delighted us exceedingly. We had little
difficulty in concluding that their lively chattering on that bright and
beautiful morning was about no less important a matter than the
propriety of at once putting their house in order and setting about the
labours of incubation. If there were any truth in popular superstition,
that particular day ought to have afterwards turned out a disagreeable
one to us; for had we not seen two magpies
together, and what is more, did we not go out of our way to see them,
when we might have easily passed on unseen of them, as they were
invisible to us? In the south of Scotland the old pyet rhyme is
something like this—
"One's joy,
Two's grief,
Three a wedding,
Four death.'
In the old sgeulachd the
Gaelic rhyme is of similar import—
In our own case, on that particular occasion, the
superstition could not have been more completely falsified by the event,
for, maugre the magpies, our trip to Oban was in its every circumstance
as agreeable and pleasant as it could well be. What a pity it is that
these beautiful birds, whose favourite residence, too, if they were only
permitted to live in peace, is the immediate vicinity of human
dwellings, should be of su'ch evil repute that gamekeepers everywhere
consider themselves justified in accomplishing their utter destruction
by every means in their power. Their utter destruction
we have said; and it is only as to their total extirpation that we would
venture on a word of expostulation with gamekeepers and their employers.
It is true that the magpie is an enemy to winged game, being a cunning
and persistent nest-robber, an adroiter sucker of eggs than the
proverbial " grandmother" herself. That the gamekeeper should therefore
dislike them is the most natural thing in the world, and that, in
gamekeeper's own phrase, they should " be kept down " is proper enough.
But we cannot agree that it is necessary that the bird should be utterly
destroyed. Here and there on a wide estate an occasional pair of magpies
might surely be tolerated for the sake of their beauty and amusingly
lively manners, and on the divine principle of "live and let live." For
our own part, in approaching a gentleman's residence, the sight of a
pair of these birds flitting about " the old ancestral elms " always
intensifies our respect for the place and the owner.
Crossing Loch Creran, by the Ferry of Shian, we are in
Bender-loch—classic ground, and archoeologically the most interesting
spot, perhaps, in all the West Highlands. "Everything here is
beautiful," says Dr. Macculloch. "The distance between the ferries of
Shian and Connel is but five miles; but it is a day's journey for a wise
man." About half-way is Dim-Mac-Ulsneachain (the
Fort of the Son of Uisneach),
one of the most interesting of our vitrified forts, qua such,
and supposed to be the Beregonium of Hector Boethius, and the site of
the still older Selma, the "Hall of Swords" of Ossianic song. That it
was a place of importance long before the time of the Dalriad Scots
seems very certain ; and, leaving Macpherson's "Ossian" altogether out
of the question, there occur in the old Fingalian ballads, and tales of
the Feinne, about the antiquity of which there has never been dispute;
numberless local references which seem in a very remarkable manner to
point to this spot as the principal stronghold in Scotland (for they
were of Ireland also) of the Fingalians at one period, and that the most
important, perhaps, in their history. "Within a short distance of
Dun-Mac-Uisneachain, and commanding it, is a steep, rocky eminence of
considerable height, called Dunvallary or Dunvallanry, the etymology of
which may be
Dun-bhaU'-n-ru/h, the
Fortified Place of the King's Town; or Dlni-bhaiV
n \'fhrith, the
Fort of the Town on the verge of the Hunting Forest. Stretching away
towards Connel and Loch Etive is the wide moorland flat of Achnacree,
which, with its numerous cairns, Druidical circles, monoliths, and other
relics of the olden time, may very well be the ancient "plains of Lora;"
Lora itself, frequently mentioned in Ossianic poetry, and meaning Luath
shruth, the
loud, swift current, par
excellence, meeting
us face to face, so to speak, in the turbulently impetuous rapids of
Connel. |