SOON after my removing to
Soval, I lost my friend Burnaby. Unfortunately for me, but fortunately
for the tax-payers, the survey of the Lews was completed, and he took
his departure, to the universal regret of the whole island; for he was
one of those who have the singular knack of attaching everybody and
everything to them. “Nil tetigit quod non omavit.” The survey is a model
of what can be done under adverse circumstances, for surveying and
contouring the island of Lews with such a climate is no joke. Looking
after his work took him to wild places, and to many of those wild places
did l accompany him. Work done, didn’t we play and shoot and fish?
We ran entirely in
couples. He had a little gig and a small pony, Johnnie, the best piece
of horse-flesh I ever knew. He was little over twelve hands high, but,
once started, he clattered up and down hill, and never stopped till you
readied your destination. Then he was taken out and tethered by the
road-side—harness off and locked up in the little gig, for fear of the
cows, that invariably eat any stray prize left out—and away we went
somewhere. The quantities of fish we used to extract from loch and
river, from Gremsta and Blackwater, and other places adjacent, were
considerable. I had my own ground. By right of his office of
surveyor-general, and by permission, Dick Burnaby roamed anywhere, and I
roamed in company with him. F. M. and I then owned half the island, and
the rest was unlet, and remained so for a long time, so that Dick and I
had a wild world to face; and manfully we faced it. He was a beautiful
fisherman, and a very quick shot—very quick, but not steady with the
rifle. Seldom was it we, came home anything but full-handed. Then he had
the merriest, lightest-hearted dog I ever knew, Grouse I., a beautiful
black and tan Gordon setter, whom I afterwards bought of him on his
leaving the island—a rare dog, whose blood I still have, and prize
beyond all other I possess, save old Tom’s. Grouse would run behind the
trap, with two good otter terriers that never left us, for nothing ever
came amiss in our walks. In their company he would chase everything
along the road, from a luckless wild Hebridean child to a black-faced
sheep, as we all clattered along—Johnnie, Dick, and I, and doggies—in
that wild exuberance of spirits which mountain and sea air combined,
together with the anticipation of wild sport from an otter to a deer, a
snipe to an eagle, a brownie to a salmo, alone can produce.
Arriving at the
disembarking point, the terriers came to heel, Grouse resumed his
senses, and proceeded to traverse the muir in a style seldom surpassed.
Great nose, with sound sense and wonderful powers of finding, he passed
nothing. I never could find out whether he was best at snipes,
woodcocks, or grouse. He was the only dog I ever saw who laughed when he
performed some wonderful circumventing feat. He had a power no other dog
of my acquaintance possessed of producing brown owls. This always
excited his risible faculties. Once he produced a white one, and then he
screamed again, and I thought he would have gone into convulsions. He
retrieved everything that was wanted to be retrieved, and cared nothing
for a loch in the coldest of days.
Suddenly, perhaps, as we
were walking along, one of the terriers would cock one ear, as only a
good Scotch hill terrier can (I don’t mean a prize Bedlington, or some
of the rare specimens of eccentricity exhibited at shows), and look
sagaciously at his friend, who would return his observation by dropping
one or both of his, already cocked; and then both would start as
straight as a crow flies, without a note, for a small loch, distant,
perhaps, a mile. In a moment Grouse twigged the game up, and made in a
straight line for the said loch, barking for his life in an ecstasy of
delight. Away went Dick and I, as fast as we could carry our little
bodies (for we were neither of us giants) to the loch too. Arrived
there, we found our little friends, each at the mouth of a sort of a
small cavern with two exits, one on land and another into the loch,
stationary, like two grim little sentinels, and Grouse, half mad,
circling round them. As soon as we have got our breath to articulate and
strength to enlarge a little the land entrance, with a cheering “have at
him” in goes the land side terrier. A rush and a bustle, and a yelp for
the first time are heard, a strange noise, and then, like lightning, the
other sentinel at the water mouth is knocked over, and with that
extraordinary; springing, demoniac bound he alone can give, a large dog
otter plunges into the loch and disappears. Savagely spring Grouse and
the terriers after him, and an otter hunt, Hebridean fashion, begins.
Don’t be afraid, reader,
I am not going to describe an otter hunt; we have no such thing there. I
once got two or three foxhounds, and some terriers, but it would not do;
the lochs were too many and too large, and the beast always beat us. But
if you can get an otter into a small loch, in which you can keep him,
with two or three sagacious and real good dogs, you may have some
exciting fun in its way; but then it must be very calm, and you must
have good eyes.
Our loch was small; Dick
took one side, I the other; and at him went our terriers and Grouse,
showing, the first excitement over, a sagacity that made up for want of
numbers. One of the three always kept the shore, to detect the otter if
he banked or tried to quit the loch; the others swam as handy to him as
they could. Our office was to watch the otter blowing or venting, and to
keep him down by shooting over him whenever he did so ; above all, if
possible, not to let him leave the loch unknown. Sometimes we lost him
altogether for half-an-hour—at one time so long that we thought him
gone, when off set the terriers by agreement to his old den, where they
recommenced their old game at the find. In went the terrier, out went
the otter again with doggie Sticking to him. The other settled to as
well, and the brave beast dashed into the loch again, With both Skyes
fastened to him, soon, however, in his native element, to shake them
off. And so the game goes on; but by degrees otter diving even comes to
a close. He breathes more frequently, and the dogs get at him now and
then; the fights in the shallows are niore savage; till at last you see
one terrier fastened well between the forelegs, and down go otter,
terriers, Grouse, and all, into the loch, and remain so long under that
you think they are drowned, till a bubbling commotion is seen, and up
surges the half-dead otter, with Grouse and terriers sticking steadily
to him, and dragging him on shore, where terriers finish him, and
Grouse, as soon as he has got his wind, dances frantically, barking;
round a fine old dog otter, twenty-six pounds weight. Oh, blame me not,
ye otter heroes of the Wye and the Usk, that in these our parts we so
ignominiously slay this game beast! But what can we do ? Who would shoot
a wild boar that could ride to hog? But, since that grandest of
amusements is denied, shooting a charging boar is not to be despised.
Pen souviens tu mon cher
Dick, of these our pastimes in those days of yore, which I believe we
both thought the happiest of our lives? The last time we met you were in
civilized society; you were quartered on the Curragh of Kildare; your
occupation, providing for the defences of that noble camp, erecting
sheds for troopers; doing your work well, there as everywhere, and
respected by all. But you found something to do there too. I remember we
went after some imaginary snipes on the bog of Allen; I don’t think
there was a fish within miles. But you took to hunting, you dog—and that
makes up for a great deal—and you tried Kildare and went well. Do you
remember the day you were going so well—a little bit too close, perhaps,
for you even got jealous—and we took a pull round the crest of the hill
so as not to be blown up, when the hounds got hid from our sight for a
moment round the hill, and we never saw them again? How savage you were!
and I don’t wonder, for it is hard to err with the best intentions. Do
you remember that day in the park, when we passed so many hours watching
that stag near the loch, when the beast would come upon us instead of
our going to him, and to get out of sight we had to take the soil and
get into the said loch and walk about under its bank— depth varying from
the ankle to over the waist —not able to get out for hours or get our
shot, and it was not a warm day; and then, when we emerged from our
pleasant hiding-place, the animal had moved, and we had to follow him to
Larcastal; and at last, after getting a shot and killing your stag, you
found him worthless, his horns being rotten? Do you remember this, and
then our walk down Ben-more afterwards—for Fred had not then made his
road up its side—against time to reach our boat before dark, and before
the weather came on too bad to cross Loch Seaforth, which it was
evidently fast doing, and our passage across without McAulay, my gillie
being a cur, and yours not much better? However, we got back safe to the
Aline diggings. And then do you remember the long, long stalk from
Fordmore to close under Diensten bothy, from morn till night, and the
crossing that nice long loch, half-swimming, half-wading, with old
Finlay M‘Lean as our stalker, and lying directly afterwards so
comfortably for a couple of hours under that stone, whence we could not
move ? And at last, getting close up to the stag in the gloaming, and
missing him as clean as a riband, you dog, whereat I was wondrous wroth,
and swore you should go home to Stornoway that night and get no supper;
and even Lochiel blew you up, and said you should be ashamed of
yourself, and he would follow your fortunes no more ? Do you mind (Scottice)
inveigling me one day over to Dalbeg from Callernish, under pretence of
woodcock shooting there, ten miles over the muir, getting only one old
cock grouse? Then our being confined three days to the house with a
Lewis gale, and the nice hailstorms rattling on the skylight windows,
and the grand Atlantic tumbling over the cliffs above the house, and our
lying down under the spray to watch the breakers. It was. a grand sight,
was it not ? And then the snipes round that quaint little lake inside
the sea bay ! And at last, when the weather did clear, do you remember
the woodcocks round Brahgar Hill, and up the glen and down the haggy
flat towards Sebastopol Loch; and then the Carloway glens, and that
hillside where you had to cling on by your eyelids to get over the
cocks, and how frightfully one always missed them there ? And that
deceiving Carlo way river, with its nice pools, rushing streams, and
long, deep, apparently good holding water, in which one never .saw or
got a fish? Do you remember our snipe-shooting round Stornoway, when we
roved where we liked, and nearly bagging two old women close into the
huts at the end of the town ? And the snipe-shooting at Gress and round
Agnish point; and. old Alexander, our great pal, who was. seldom sober,
and never bought and sold when he was, for fear of being taken in ?. And
do you remember the grand entertainment at Stornoway on the occasion of
the wedding of one of our friends in the town, when festivities
commenced at three in the afternoon with a sumptuous dinner, when
everybody made speeches and gave toasts, and swam in Champagne till
eight? Then dancing commenced, and continued—with constant refreshment,
whisky cold and without, or hot and with, or real cold, as the
Highlander prefers (that is, pure)—till half-past six in the morning,
when you and I, and your dear little wife, turned out of a fine April
morning with the sun shining in our faces, not so very much the worse
considering; but that under her convoy we reached your habitation, the
cottage, in safety. Do you remember all these things now, dear Dick, in
your quarters in Halifax? And, as you go in for moose deer and North
American salmon, and look after the woodcocks with poor Duke, that I
sent you out—old Grouse the First’s grandson—do you ever think of those
days and the old trapper that shared them, now a miserable, old worn-out
one indeed ? Yes, those were happy days, and we were then both merry
hearts; we both had cheerful homes, the day’s work over, to return to.
"Two blyther hearts ye
ne’er would see,
The lee-lang night in Christendie.”
And there were those who
loved to listen to our account of our day’s work. And now how changed!
Cheerily has gone and goes the world with you, and long may it continue
so to do; but you are now a staid patriarch, with pledges to the State
for the grave and sober observance of your patriarchal duties, and would
not turn out to dine at the governor’s in Halifax with Madame, with
little Johnnie and his trap, as you used to do at the Castle in
Stornoway; while I live almost on recollections of the past—of the light
that once brightened my own happy fireside—of the long-loved home, now
passed away to others. |