THERE were two rivers
attached to the Soval shooting at the time I took it—the Laxay, distant
about three miles and a half; the Blackwater, about ten from Soval,
three miles and a half from Diensten bothy. And first we will speak of
the most distant river. There are two branches of the Blackwater—one
running from a loch that I called New Loch, another running from another
loch, called by me Loch Dismal.
About these two lochs the
fish ran up by other smaller burns and lochs, but we never thought of
fishing beyond these lochs. The two arms of the river joined together
between Diensten and Garrynahine, and then the river becomes the
Blackwater. Prom the junction there are two or three miles of rough
water before you come to the first legitimate salmon pool. I call it
legitimate; for, though I have done such a thing as catch a fish in the
rough water above this pool, yet, generally speaking, fish don’t stay in
it, but run through for the two lochs. From this legitimate pool to the
Major’s pool, about a mile, when there was plenty of water and you knew
it well, the fishing, to my mind, was always charming; for the gentlemen
were very merry, and dodged about in the little narrows and pools in a
very artful way. I first discovered the charms of this part of the
water, for even Burnaby had never killed a fish there till I found it
out, and never used to think of beginning to fish till he reached the
Major’s pool. From this pool to the big pool was about another mile and
a half of charmingly varied water—pools, streams, and narrows; but it
required fishing, though not long casting. It used to be “nuts ” to me,
sniggling a fish out of a corner that no man “unacquaint,” as we say,
with the water would dream of trying. The big pool, and the stream
running into it, was the crack cast of the river; but I confess it was
not my pet, for when in prime order it was necessary to cast a long line
in the teeth of the wind, or rather across the wind, three-quarters
against you, so that it was all but impossible to prevent your line
bellying; and your fish rose on a curved, not a straight, line, which is
not as it should be. I have often wondered one kept one’s eyes in those
gusty days, when you not unfrequently got your fly back smart in your
face. But what with the wind and the stream, when you hooked a fish
there, he fought. Strange to stay, though the pool was alive with fish,
and rising in all parts by the weeds, you seldom took one anywhere but
in the stream and its entrance into the pool between the two high banks
of sedges. If by chance you ever did rise a fish in other parts, he
generally beat you, and got off.
I put a little boat on
this big pool, and got very nearly drowned two or three times, but never
did anything to repay me for the trouble. From the big pool there was
about half a mile of still, deep water, with little or no stream, but
full of fish. When the wind was right—anything east, north, or
south-east was useless, as it was still water on all the good
casts—there were plenty of fish to be got, and here generally lay the
heaviest fish. From the end of this long still water there was about a
mile or so of rough water, in which you occasionally got sea-trout, and
I have caught grilse. You then came to the pools into which the tide ran
up near the Garrynahine Inn and bridge. There occasionally, particularly
in the latter end of the season, you got fish; and if you watched the
turn of tide well, and caught the pools as the fish were coining in, and
before the tide had made too much, you might get a good many sea-trout.
I once got eighty-seven, but they were small. From this description it
will be seen that the Blackwater was a very nice little ' river. It was
no fine Highland or Irish stream, but it had plenty of fish; and it had
one thing about it I never saw equalled—it was the best rising river I
ever threw line on. If you treated it properly, and there was wind, you
would always kill fish, for there was a good deal of deep water and
pools; and when the streams and pools would not fish for want of water,
the still, deep water always would when there was wind—and it is not
often the Lews is without that. Many a happy hour have I passed on its
banks, and many a fish have I laid on them ; and, to my mind, they took
the charm of the Soval ground from it when they deprived it of the
Blackwater, and the sooner they unite the two again the better. I and my
comrade, T. D., had probably better sport there when we fished than any
others are likely to have again. I do not say this as boasting of our
prowess, for we were no better than our neighbours— certainly I was not.
But I loved the dear Stream so well that I always treated her as I would
my lady-love. I wooed lier gently and considerately, and never asked of
her too much. I never frightened her with vulgar, glaring, overgrown
buzzards or colours, or ruffled her fair surface with strong cables, or
shook great glaring poles about her smiling face. Our rods were wands,
our tackle the gossamer’s web, our flies scarce more than midges; and
then, pleased and enchanted with our entertainment, left her to her soft
repose, and never bored her with too much attention, or called too soon
to inquire about her.
Believe me, there is no
such mistake made in fishing, if you want a river to remain good, as
working at it every day. It does not answer in a large river even, still
less in a small one, where every fly you cast in the water is seen by
every fish in it. I never fished the Blackwater two days running, except
in very heavy water. It would be better to give it two days’ rest for
one of work, and in low water, and when not fishing weather, to leave it
alone altogether. You may catch a fish; but how many do you scare?
Heaven defend me from one of your very keen fishermen, who rushes at a
river in all weathers. I have as great a horror of him as ever old Noll*
had of Sir Harry Vane. Why is it that a terra incognita in fishing at
first produces such good sport? Simply because the fish, poor innocents,
don’t know the difference between a natural and artificial fly, or what
a fly is. But they soon learn it. Flogging a river for ever, because you
may catch a fish, is like disturbing good shooting ground on a bad day,
when you thrash yourself, your dogs, and your men, all to no purpose,
make yourself exceedingly uncomfortable, spoil the beat, and, if you do
get anything, it is scarce worth bringing home. There is a certain
amount of folly in being over keen. If you must have exercise, go out
and get yourself as wet as a shag; but why drag everyone else into
discomfort?
I said that there were
two branches of the Blackwater, one issuing out of the New Loch, the
other out of Loch Dismal. The branch out of New Loch was far inferior,
to all appearance, to that from Loch Dismal, yet it was possible to kill
fish in the one, but not in the other. There was some long, deep, sludgy
water that you could jump over, and one or two little pools, which in
flood water held fish, and rising fish too. It was my great delight,
when my comrades were on the river, to betake myself to these quaint
little places, and many a fish I got out of them. In the narrows it was
great fun. You hooked a springy little gentleman, who jumped on the
opposite bank. If you were by yourself, and could not clear the river,
you had nothing for it but to pull your fish back into the water, fight
him there, and bring him out on your own side, if you could. Or,
perhaps, when hooked, Salmo rushed up one of these narrows, and in
following him you were brought up by a cross ditch, filled to the bank
with the overflow, and you had to stand snubbing and turning him, which,
with light tackle and small flies, is not always so easily done. In the
other branch of the Blackwater I remember killing but one grilse, and
that in a small pool, or rather hole, where we hunted him about, and
caught him with a landing net. Both Loch Dismal and New Loch held fish,
particularly towards the end of the season; but I never found the salmon
there, or in any loch save the Gremsta Loch and. Loch Yaltos, rise well
to a fly. I believe the country people kill a good many with a worm, and
when the water is deep enough they will run at a minnow. But, though
there can be no doubt that spinning a minnow as it should be spun, and
fishing a worm well under water, as Tom Stoddard does at Kelso, are very
high angling accomplishments, perhaps higher than throwing a fly, I
don’t care for killing a fish—I mean a salmon —with aught but a fly.
Such is the Blackwater in
its state of nature, which it was not when first I went to Soval, or
rather the year after. The bag-nets—those charming engines, invented, I
believe, for the destruction of rivers—had been taken off, only to be
replaced after the angling was let, and in the very spot where they
should not have been. I thought, by my lease, to have guarded against
their being so placed; but a Scotch lease is a queer instrument, even of
law, and the Ordnance map, which one would have supposed to have been
conclusive evidence of locality, was not so considered. So there they
,were, and I had nothing to do but grin and bear it. Now, at even the
mouths of great salmon rivers, bag-nets are bad enough, but when the
rivers are not large, and very shallow, if the season is dry the fish
cannot get up. They try, poor things, but in vain, and have nothing to
do but with each retiring tide to drop back into the jaws of the
ever-open bag-net. I had to go through this pleasant pass, till really
the fishing got so worthless that I had serious thoughts of letting
Clarke, the then lessee of the Gremsta angling, have it; for the fish
could not get up, generally speaking, till late on in the season, and
then I, for my part, don’t much care for killing them.
When Salmo has the
smallest of heads buried in his shoulders, with the most delicate mouth,
and, like a little fat’ pig, is as broad as he is long, and as white as
silver—good. But reverse the picture, and let him have a long head, with
a big, bony mouth, as tough as leather, and a red, ugly, shiny-looking
body—a Dios, senor, he is not my fish. He is little sport to kill, and—I
own to being a gourmet, not a gourmand, in fishing—not nice to eat. In
this state, then, memory, not inspiration, came to my aid. I bethought
me of the Costello, in Galway, by whose pleasant side I had, in former
days, killed buckets-full of fish; and, in imitation of what I had there
seen practised, I dammed up Loch Dismal. Across the mouth of this loch I
erected a dam and sluice similar to the common mill-dams of the country,
taking care, of course, not to shut the sluices so close as to run the
branch of the river dry. I thus kept back water enough to create an
artificial spate, which I let go exactly in time to meet the high spring
tides that bring the fish up to the rivers’ mouths, which they take,
wind and water permitting.
I found the experiment
answer perfectly, and over and over again I ascertained to demonstration
that the fish took the river with my artificial, just as they would with
a natural, spate. By judiciously keeping up a supply of water, I
freshened up my river as it grew low, and brought up, ever and anon,
fresh fish. I also, by the same process, sent to sea early the foul
fish, which I had previously known remain in the river till the middle
of July; thus rendering a double' service—making the foul fish go to
sea, and, consequently, return from it earlier, and preserving the fry
from the wholesale slaughter made on them by their unnatural and
voracious parents while waiting in the pools for water to get down. My
belief is, that but for this plan the fish would have suffered much more
than they did from the bag-nets, from whose maw I thus rescued not a few
of my finny friends. This, however, I did not do without exciting the
dire wrath of the bag-net men. To be sure, it was tantalizing to see the
beautiful shoal they had calculated on daily diminishing with their
abominable engine, on its return with each retreating tide from the
fruitless attempt to take the river, whisked up at once by so singular a
stream.
At first it was called an
illegal act, an interference with vested rights; but that soon fell to
the ground, as the river, from source to sea, lochs and all, belonged to
me. The dam is six miles from the sea, and there is no trap or net of
any sort to catch the fish, for may this hand wither if ever it assails
the noble Salmo salar with a heavier weapon than an honest,
well-dressed, light-cast fly ! And so they had but to grin and bear it.
And so then they changed the burden of their song. They condoled with my
ignorance ; they besought me, for my own sake, not to ruin my river, to
spoil my own sport. Poor dear, considerate souls ! And they adduced a
wonderful proof of the mischief I was doing myself; which, by the way,
got into print. A particular spate they said I had sent down had stirred
up all the black mud in the river, sent it right in the teeth of a shoal
of fish taking the river, and driven the fastidious creatures back to
sea, where 300 of them were taken in the nets that night; as if a
natural spate never stirred up mud at all!
A charming story—pity it
was not true; for, unfortunately, that year being the last of the
bag-net lease, and not wishing any disputes, I had never put my sluices
in operation. They were safely housed in my stable! But some very
ingenious workmen employed to gas-tar a bridge over the river, just
where the salt joins the^ fresh water, chose the period of the high
spring tides to do so ; and, not content with botching their work, and
dropping a good deal of tar into the river, to save themselves the
trouble of removing the remains of the gas-tar cask, emptied it into the
river, which, thus fouled, the fish would not take. I passed the bridge
just after the performance of this notable exploit, and angry enough I
was, though not the least astonished at the result. I thus saved my own
angling; but did more good than this, for the Gremsta also profited. I
am not one of those who imagine that so good a food as salmon is to be
kept merely for anglers’ amusement; but I do say that small rivers and
small estuaries cannot stand close fishing—that in remote districts like
the Hebrides, where there is no nearer market than Glasgow, and where
the communication then was not so good as it is now, the netting-rent
was not very remunerative to either lessor or lessee, and to expect to
continue both netting and angling-rent could only end in grief to both.
When netting is carried on closely, the almost invariable consequence,
too, is that the size of the fish diminishes much. Before I put my
sluices in operation I hardly ever got anything but dabs of fish, and
the average of w'eight was small; but after they had been working for
some years, the average very much rose, and they increased not only in
quantity but in weight. Just as the river became a good one, however, it
was severed from the shooting—a great mistake, in my opinion, for it
very much added to the charm of Soval; and I think that eventually the
wisdom of reuniting the two will be seen.
The other river in the
Soval shooting was the Laxay, or Lakassay. It was about three miles and
a half from Soval Lodge, and ran a course of some five miles, from Loch
Trialaval to Loch Yaltos. It was a shallow river, with not above three
or four pools in it, and those very sheltered; and, except on odd days,
the fish were sulky. Loch Yaltos was a nice loch, and very good for
sea-trout. There was, then, a mile more river from Yaltos to the sea, or
rather tideway, with two or three good casts for salmon; but they
generally held sulky fish. At the time I first went to Soval salmon did
not abound in the Laxay, and no wonder, for it was close fished with net
and cable, and also foul-fished—a net being sunk across the mouth of the
river, and kept there, so that it was all but impossible for fish to get
up. It had also been well cruived. Fortunately, I caught them at their
foul fishing, cut their net to pieces, and watched them so close, that
they made a sort of compromise, and I got rid of the nets for a
consideration, as the Highlanders pronounce the word. The river,
however, was so shallow, that, though I caught a great many sea-trout, I
got very few fish. At last, seeing the success of the patent floods at
the Blackwater, I tried them on the Laxay, and, to a certain extent,
succeeded very well, for I caught one day more fish in the Rock and
Reedy pools—the two good pools between Trialaval and Yaltos—than I had
ever caught in the whole river all the previous years of my tenancy. But
it was up-hill work making sluices there. I tried in three or four
different places, but not very successfully; for, though the river was
very shallow, Loch Trialaval was a large body of water, and two or three
times my sluice and embankment disappeared, and it required both care
and expense to make them stand, and sometimes there were great floodings
and overflows. Once I nearly drowned half the township of Laxay when out
at their shealings; but they were quiet folk, and we were good friends,
and I made them fords and put out stepping-stones, and, fortunately,
there was no necessity for any coroner’s inquests. They did say I
drowned one old woman, cart and all; but, fortunately for me, as I was
able to prove that the poor creature came to her untimely end ten miles
from my scene of action, on the high road to Stornoway, by her cart
going off the road into a burn in a state of flood and falling on her, I
escaped all suspicion, even of womans laughter, better than R. M. did
the red horse misdemeanour. If I did not make the river what I wanted, I
succeeded well with Loch Yaltos, for it held a great many fish; and when
I first arrived they rose well, and we used to have some very good sport
in it. But one thing I never could account for. As the salmon increased
the sea-trout decreased, and from being a very good loch for them, it
became most indifferent; they decreased both in quality and size. Can
any of the wise account for this?
There were very large
fish in the Laxay, and it was a very early river; but I never got a
dozen spring fish in it during the years I held it. I believe the fish
began running in December and stopped in March, or before, just as they
used to do in Killarney; nor did I ever, except in one or two instances,
get in it very large fish, though I have killed kelts in spring that
must have been 25 lb. or 30 lb. weight, and a great many of them. But
the Laxay fish were, I think, larger than the Blackwater fish, and they
certainly were a great deal better.
Besides these two rivers,
there were at the west side smaller rivers and lochs—the Car-lowy loch
and river, and part of the Bhragair and Sharbost rivers, which no doubt
held fish; for off Carlowy Head was a good netting station. They were
not, however, worth much for angling ; at least, though I often tried, I
never did much in them. I have caught a sea-trout and a salmon or two ;
but they are not rising rivers. A non-rising river, of which I have seen
many, is to my mind useless for angling purposes, and 'you had best
consign it to the nets. There were also dotted all over the shooting
fresh-water lochs innumerable, in which were good store of brownies. I
never could get them to rise as they should to trout-flies, used in fair
angling fashion, though they would rise to ottering; but one doesn’t
lose one’s time on a good day at that, with salmon to kill. Moreover,
they were the worst brownies to eat I ever tried.
Thus, I think I have
shown that Soval as it was had within its boundaries great attraction
for a wild, amphibious animal like myself, half otter, half colley,
never happy but when dabbling about something, weather permitting—very
fond of his dogs, and delighted in exploring lochs in little cobles, of
which I had a fleet, and with no one to interfere with me. Let me now
con-' elude this long yarn with a bit of practical advice to the large
community of letters and renters of shootings and fishings.
There is a custom
prevalent in some parts of Scotland better honoured in the breach than
in the observance. I allude to the custom of some proprietors reserving
in their lettings of rivers a right of sending—sometimes one day in the
week, sometimes oftener — their own friends to fish on rivers so let.
Now, I do not think a more unwise or, without the slightest wish to use
hard terms, a more unfair thing can be done. You say it is one of the
conditions of the letting; but, let me ask, when you let a shooting, do
you retain a right to send your friends to shoot over the ground you
let? or would any one in his senses take a moor or a forest on such
terms? Why, then, am I to be expected to pay a high rate for a river,
preserve it well, and, on the few salmon-fishing days the year brings
round, run the risk of finding the proprietor’s friends fishing my pet
pool? It is asking too
much of poor human nature to stand this. No one more enjoys walking by
the side of any one fishing, if he can fish, showing him honestly the
good casts and how to fish them, landing his fish, doing everything, in
short, for him, except giving him, my own particular pet fly—than I do.
I can do it for days together. But loafers, or the proprietor’s friends,
coming as a matter of right—few or far between as may be—is another
thing. There is pride and pleasure in the one, the devil and all his
imps in the other. No proprietor should ever ask, no lessee ever consent
to, such a condition. I go further still. No clean-brqd gentleman should
ever take advantage of such a privilege, and fish another man’s water at
that man’s expense. I would not, and our friend Fred, I know, would hot
do it.
There is yet another
point. This reservation contains within itself the fruitful germ of
misunderstandings, heart-burnings, and all manner of strife and discord.
I have known it work most unpleasantly, and become thefons et origo
malorum that otherwise would never have arisen. |