R. M. was also a
first-rate sportsman at everything, and one of the very best men I ever
saw in my life to face a rough country with a dog and get stuff out of
it. He was, in his day, one of the best hill-walkers I ever knew;
indeed, too good, for he was always walking at his dogs, his gillies,
and any unfortunate man that went out shooting with him. He was a
capital stalker, for he had the eye of a hawk and the bump of locality;
but, being of a very excitable nature, he was not as cool as he might be
when he came to shoot. He was always sighting and trying his rifle, and
the white spots on the rocks and hills about were plastered with the
lead of his trial bullets, showing the accuracy with which bull’s-eyes
could be made. Once, indeed, a memorable and most provoking instance
occurred of this mania of sighting. They had been collecting sheep in
Harris for the Falkirk fair, the Harris Hills not being then, as they
are now, clear of sheep; and consequently the Aline Hills, Lewis, and
Carneval, were full of deer, huddled together like driven sheep. To
stalk them was out of the question, and therefore R. M. was placed in a
pass while the forester and the gillies went round to manoeuvre the deer
to him. This they were doing well, while R. M. was amusing himself with
surveying the prospect, and now and then sighting an innocent white lamb
that was watching its mamma feeding. On came the deer, and they were all
but within shot when our friend took a last sight at his pet lamb,
forgetting that he had not uncocked his rifle; bang went both his
barrels, bah-ah went the poor little innocent, pierced with both
bullets, and back went the deer.
So amusing, and at the
same time so thoroughly annoying, was the incident, that the Aline
farming tenant, old Mr. Stewart, who had been a keen stalker in his day,
never would hear of any payment for the lamb, saying that it was bad
enough to lose such chances at the deer without having to pay for the
lamb. The occurrence, however, had its annoyances. It got wind, and was,
some years afterwards, the cause of considerable legal and uselessly
ludicrous inquiry. A red (Lewisian for chestnut) horse was found dead in
a peat-hole somewhere under Stachshal Hill, on the Soval ground. R. M.
and I had been stalking there, and upon it found a good stag, which he
unaccountably missed with both barrels. The dead horse being also found,
as I said, in this locality, the lamb story was revived, and our friend,
after he had left the island, got the credit of having potted the horse.
Of course, the story grew into a good one, and I was one of the last to
hear it; but when all but legal proceedings were about being instituted,
I was enabled to say that I had watched the latter part of the stalk
with my "prospect," the ground being too ticklish for more than the
stalker; that I had seen both the stag and the red horse, who were in
opposite directions; and that unless bullets, without a ricochet, flew
backwards, neither of the two could have touched the horse. This
sufficed for the legal question, but to this day the Lews gives R. M.
the credit of missing the stag and killing the horse. However,
notwithstanding all these little misadventures, few men would have
beaten him as a stalker, for he was not to be .tired or turned by
difficulties; and as he grew older, and more up to his work,, he became
steadier, and was no mere poodle dog at his stalker’s heel, as many of
your fanaticos are.
Ah, me! the day—I
remember it well—when we started early from Soval, and stalked away
right past the Barvas Hills, on to near the Glen House on the Barvas
Road, and round by Rosheval and the mouth of Glen Bhragair to my bothy
at Diensten, killing a fine royal, whose head I am looking at now; and
then, because we had left another stag somewhere near the glen’s mouth,
stalked the same ground the next day back again home, blank—a fine walk
indeed, and we shall never do the like again. The home is gone, and
more—all that made it then what it was! And poor Bob, as we called R.
M., and I are now two old cripples, that can only live on the memory of
those bygone happy days. But enough of this sad theme.
R. M. was a very good
fisherman, and threw as long, as straight, and as light a line as
anyone; but then he was always admiring his throwing, and casting too
much line—the greatest mistake a man can ever make—more than he or
anybody could ever command. There were few streams he could not cover.
He had also a very pretty notion of dressing a good fly —a great
qualification in a fisherman; not that I am a believer in dressing flies
by the riverside after the pattern on the water, at least for salmon or
sea-trout fishing. Lastly, R. M. was a capital game shot, and therefore
his dogs, when he had patience to give them time, were very good.
I suppose I must say
something about myself, but it won’t be much. The reader will, by this
time, have found out that I am passionately fond of dogs, and not averse
to sport of any kind; but, though shooting from childhood almost, not
being early accustomed to good shooting, I never learnt to shoot. I was
never quick, almost always most uncertain, and never could ascertain
why, from youth till now, I remained decidedly a most indifferent shot,
though I might be able to hit a haystack flying. I was and am
passionately fond of fishing, and have killed a great number of fish in
my life; but I never could throw—and never, I presume, shall be able to
throw—a line as it ought to be thrown. I threw from the shoulder, not
the wrist. I could kill a fish when I got hold of him—that I could do;
and I never tired of fishing as long as fish were worth catching. The
moment they get red and full of spawn, their heads big, and long
snouts—bah ! I don’t care for them. I attempted dressing flies, and
produced anomalous things—certainly not ephemera—though, strange to say,
I once fastened a bundle of something on a hook that killed fifteen
fish—kelts, mind you; but what won’t they take? I did love stalking,
indeed. I began well with a single rifle, was not the least excited,
killed four out of five of the chances I had, and impertinently wondered
how any living soul could miss a stag broadside on at, say, eighty to a
hundred yards; and so, fired with ambition, I took to a double rifle—a
wonderful weapon, made, at F. M’s suggestion, by Askey, of Bedale—with
which I broke so many bottles at long distance, that the said F. M.
would stand no more. Had we had cups then at Aline I should have won
them all. I made an example of cormorants and herons, even of gulls; but
when it came to deer—oh ! F. M.’s bottle imp sat across my sight, and no
longer was my ear gratified with the dead thud of success, but grated by
the ringing crash of some rock either over or under him. The fact was, I
was afflicted with the stalking fever, and when I came to shoot I was
like Gil Bias when, in the encounter between the robbers and Don Alvar
and his suite, he shut his eyes and fired his carbine anywhere.
Such was our firm, and
three good men and true were we. We were all sitting together one of
those fine days when there is nothing to be done but admire the
prospect—if the midges will let you—with just mist enough on the hills
to prevent stalking, no breeze for fishing, and grouse too small to
shoot, when our notice was attracted by several boats appearing at the
mouth of Loch Seaforth. Out went the prospects, and M'Aulay was
summoned; after a long look through his glass, he remarked, shutting it
up, with emphasis, and with that look of pleasure and determination
which gleams in his eye when he sees a good royal:— “It’s just the
whalls.” An electric shock seemed to pass through the whole party, and
in less than no time every craft in the establishment was manned, and
everybody seized every conceivable weapon of offence, and hurried into
the boats. The whale boat, our own particular conveyance across Loch
Seaforth, was manned by the best crew, under the special guidance of
M‘Aulay, who hoisted his flag on board of it, and then took command of
the whole squadron, to watch the movements. The whales had been descried
off West Tarbert Loch, in Harris, when all the inhabitants got into
their boats, and, following them, “put them ” as it is termed, “into
Loch Seaforth ”
The reader is not to
imagine that the whales I am describing are the great whales. They are
what are called the “bottle-noses,” from twelve feet to twenty feet
long, and they consort together and go in shoals—for what purpose I
don’t pretend to say, nor am I sufficiently read in natural history to
say what their birth, parentage, or education may be. But they every now
and then make a voyage of discovery to the Hebrides. When they come they
produce great excitement, and their capture is a great object to the
inhabitants, as each bottle-nose contains within itself a certain
portion of very good oil. The method of capture adopted is, by following
and flanking them at a very respectful distance, to get them into some
sea loch, at the head of which lies some shoaling ground. An indented
rock-bound loch is of no use. Having thus induced them to enter such a
loch, you follow them up in the same manner, slowly and distantly,
cautiously outflanking, but never pressing or disturbing them. Thus, as
it were, left to themselves, they gradually advance up the loch,
following their leader; and, if the tide and shoal and all be
propitious, he will of his own accord take the shoal water, even
sometimes beach himself on the sandy spit, when the whole band will
follow him like a flock of sheep, and strand themselves. But, if you
press them too hard, they will be apt to turn short round and make for
sea again.
Now, Loch Seaforth is
admirably adapted for a whale-hunt. The loch runs up from the Minch
straight to Seaforth Island, about six or seven miles, pretty well
iron-bound on both sides. At Seaforth Island, which is nearly opposite
Aline, the lock turns almost at right angles, and runs by Aribhruich,
where are some sharp rapids, up to Skipnaclet, its head. Here, or on the
shoals above—the Aribhruich Narrows, as they are called—is the best
place for stranding the bottle-noses. We, therefore, in our boat
division, hugged the shore by Aline, so that, if they liked, they might
take the sand and shingle between Aline and Harris, at the mouth of the
Glenviedale river. Bottle-noses preferred passing up to Aribhruich, and
seeing as much as they could before landing. When they had well passed,
and when the other squadrons of boats hove within communicating
distance, as soon as ever it was ascertained what squadron ours was, and
that Murdoch McAulay was our skipper, the command of the whole fleet was
by universal acclamation conferred on him.
The whales passed round
the island without hesitation, and pursued their way upwards, our boats
following slowly. There was little delay or stoppage till we came to the
Narrows. There the whales paused, and did not much seem to relish the
idea of putting their noses to the steam. We, of course, rested on our
oars, awaiting their determination, and there we waited all night.
Towards dawn, as it was
low water then, and it was quite clear that the whales were waiting for
water, or something before proceeding higher—once past the Narrows, they
were ours —and that could not come for some time, we, who had started
shortly after our breakfasts without any luncheon, were getting hungry;
so we rowed back to Aline to soothe our very clamorous stomachs, and,
that done, returned without delay.
During our absence a
reinforcement had joined our fleet, and a curious, and, as it turned
out, a most unfortunate one it was. It was in the shape of one of the
dirtiest, crankiest tubs of a boat, with the roundness, not the
steadiness, of what was called at Westminster, in my day, "a
punch-bowl,” and as little hold in the water as a skiff. How it got
round from Tarbert-in-Harris, whence it was said to come,
I cannot imagine. The
crew consisted of three of the ugliest, noisiest, most
ill-conditioned-looking viragoes of women I ever looked upon. No one
knew, or, if they did know, would own them. There they were, perched up
in their boat, like so many witches, barring their broomsticks. One of
them sat upon a turf creel in the bows, knitting for her bare life. What
Hebridean female, be she witch or not, does not, under every
circumstance and every occupation, knit as if her bare life depended
upon that exertion ? Their voices set your teeth on edge, and their
laughter made you try and stop your ears. It was evident they were bent
on mischief, and that to maintain discipline with these three Gorgons
was impossible ; and so it turned out. The tide was now making fast. The
rocks over which the rapids had been foaming were disappearing. We could
see the leaders of the band of the bottle-noses moving about, and
gradually feeling their way as to taking the Narrows. Half-an-hour’s
patience now, and our troubles would be repaid, and this band, like the
last that had visited Loch Seaforth a few years before, would be ours;
when, just at this critical moment, this triumvirate of demons, deaf to
all entreaties, to offers of bribes innumerable, to threats (for it was
proposed to fire across their bows to bring them to)—these demons, with
an indescribable yell, broke loose, and being on the outside, but
nearest, flank to the whales, rushed their boat at the Narrows with the
incoming tide. Deep were our imprecations, for in a second the whales
turned, and the game was up. I have seen a fox headed back into a small
gorse in the middle of a fine grass country, with not a bush to shelter
him for six miles, by a jealous tailor, and have, with a good many
others, had feelings far beyond manslaughter ; but I have often wondered
since how those three female fiends escaped. Fortunately for them,
however, so great was the confusion that followed their memorable
exploit, that they got off unpunished, and were, I understand, never
heard of more.
The moment the whales
turned it was all over, unless they could be met and turned again at
Seaforth Island. The whole fleet, with the exception of our boat,
started at once for the island, with that object. Our admiral kept his
position, and waited to see what the whales would really do, and, on
their apparently remaining quiescent, we approached nearer. All at once
he called out “Steady!” Ahead of us the loch seemed to seethe like
boiling milk; and, as again MfAulay roared out, “They’re coming! ” and
faced our boat hard at them, they came indeed, and for some seconds—I do
not know how long—our boat stood on whales. We all looked at one
another, and thought of those on shore; but it soon passed, and, to our
infinite delight, we found our boat floating again. But it was touch and
go. One crack of one whale’s tail would have smashed our boat, and
landing on the whales would not have been very pleasant. There was
nothing to be ‘done now but to join in the chase. We could not succeed
in turning or making any hand of the band, and they made good their
retreat to sea again. A good many shots were fired, and apparently a
good many whales received rifle-bullets, which drew blood; but they
sank, and I do not think that eventually more than three or four
carcasses were recovered.
We all returned home,
tired and disgusted; and we certainly did not lay our heads on our
pillows with those feelings of Christian charity towards the three women
that ought to fill the hearts of sinners. |